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CHAPTER 5

THE CORVETTE

The inception of the Chevrolet Corvette came from the brilliant mind of Harley J. Earl. Earl was the chief designer for General Motors from 1927 until he retired in 1959. In 1951 at Watkins Glen, Earl first saw and fell in love with the Jaguar XK120. The two-seat European-designed open roadster impressed Earl enough that he had to develop an absolutely unique American sports car that the world had never seen or imagined before.

In June 1953, the first Corvettes rolled off the assembly line. Once the Corvette was introduced to the public, it evolved into the first true and ultimate American sports car. Unique to the Corvette was the wraparound windshield and its fiberglass body. The one-piece Euro-design drop top gave the new American sports car a fresh look that had not been used on any other model car up until that time.

This 1954 Corvette is truly an American sports car. One feature of the C1 Corvette was the Euro-designed top. This simple frame was not very durable and quite awkward to operate. It was best to have some help when you wanted to raise or lower the top.

What Makes a One-Piece Top?

One of the unique features of the Corvette is its Euro-influenced one-piece articulating top. The one-piece top refers to the built-in rear curtain. This one-piece design required that the top was made to fit the frame with little error. Although the frames on the first model years were very crude in design, the top provided some protection from the elements as well as a stylish dome cover for the occupants of the car.

Another feature of the original Corvette was that it had no side windows. This bodystyle was considered an open roadster. The bodies were fitted with removable side curtains that attached to the doors of the car to help repel the weather. An all-metal articulated frame consisted of a header bow, inward-folding side rails, two top bows, and the rear-deck bow.

You can clearly see the influence this 1951 Jaguar model XK120 had on the design of the early Corvette. The carriage top with the small roof bows gave a unique appearance that made it stand out against all other cars that came before it.

Variations

The following explains the top removal and installation process of the C1 (1953 to 1962), C2 (1963 to 1967), and C3 (1968 to 1975) Corvettes. There are many similarities to these different models and a lot of variations that I will point out. Each and every Corvette that I have worked on is a unique experience and most rewarding to complete.

Because of the many frame issues associated with this 1959 Corvette, the top was kept in the lowered position, and the material had shrunk and was damaged because it has not been able to fold properly. The frame will soon be stripped and then repaired.

Without roll-up windows, the first Corvettes relied on side curtains to seal the car. Although they are crude, the side curtains provided some protection from the wind and rain. Thumb screws and guide pins were used to hold the side curtains in place.

See what happens when you put fresh paint and a new top on an old 1964 C2 Corvette? The car takes on a whole new appearance. This car came in with a bare convertible top frame that needed a lot of adjustment and parts to make it operate correctly.

Years of neglect and abusive practices have taken a toll on this beautiful 1972 C3 Corvette Stingray. The broken rear window is a result of too many automated car washes that left a lot of soap residue on the top, resulting in a prematurely failed rear window.

Top Removal

Most often the owner of a Corvette would keep the top lowered because he or she enjoyed the openness of the car. I would tend to believe they kept the top stored because the car was small, and there really was no headroom for the passengers. For whatever reason that the top was not kept in the up position, you can bet that the top material had shrunk and eventually would not be able to be latched to the windshield. It is this reason that many top frames became damaged due to the tugging and pulling, trying to get them latched to the windshield of the car.

Removing the Old Top

1 One of the first items to be removed from the old top is the worn-out rubber weatherstripping that is attached to the side frame rails of the car. Use a screwdriver to remove the small screws and T-nuts that hold the weather seal in place.

2 Having the top lowered a little helps with accessibility to the trim screws during the removal of the rubber weatherstrip. Replace this old rubber with a new set after the new convertible top has been installed on the car.

3 Use a screwdriver to free the small trim screw that is holding the stainless steel, wire-on welt tip to the rear bow of the convertible top. The shiny, metal trim pieces cover up the cut end of the decorative wire-on welt cord.

4 Use wire-on welt along the top of the rear bow to conceal the staples used to hold the top material to the bow. The special decorative cord also keeps the weather off of the staples, which are prone to rusting if they were left exposed.

5 A lot of staples need to be removed from the rear tack bow. This is the place that all of the convertible top components come together and are attached. The next row of staples to be removed holds the convertible top decking material in place.

6 Many errors were made by the last installer of the C1 convertible top. Staples were used to hold the rubber header bow weather seal in place instead of the metal retainer and screws. After the header bow is reconditioned, use the correct hardware.

7 Small sheet metal screws were used to attach new tack strip material to the underside of the header bow. Discard all of this incorrect material and install the correct original-type tack strip and weatherstrip hardware into the beveled tack strip channel.

8 With the top partially retracted to expose the underside of the header bow, use a staple puller to remove the old, worn-out, foam-core front weather seal. A new weather seal is included in the convertible top kit from Al Knoch Interiors.

9 After pulling the staples, pull back the top material to reveal the condition of the header bow tack strip. There are no surprises here, just the typical rust and rot that we always see. The header bow will be restored and put back into service.

10 Remove staples from the anchor point at the top of the rear strap. A lot of tension is put on these straps as they help to contour the top and give support to the rear window. Discard the old straps and replace them with new materials.

11 Before the rear deck bow can be removed from the C1, remove this small, rubber deck seal. Two small screws hold it in place on the rear deck bow. The condition of this seal makes it no longer serviceable, and a new rubber filler seal will be installed with the new top.

Replacing the top begins by first draping the car to protect it from any accidental damage that may occur. Be careful when using masking tape on the painted surface of a Corvette. The C1 Corvettes are most likely painted with lacquer, and the finish is very delicate. Use a good grade of painter’s tape if you tape your draping to the body of the car. Also remember that you will be opening the decklid of the car from time to time during the installation of the convertible top on all models; do not seal the drape over the edges of the decklid so that it will not open.

Unlatch the top from the windshield and then the decklid. Remove all the rubber weatherstripping from the outer edges of the frame. This will allow access to the side flaps that are glued to the side rails of the top frame to be lifted off.

Unscrew the chrome tips from the wire-on welting with a #1 Phillips screwdriver. Use a staple puller to remove the tacks and staples holding the wire-on to the rear bow of the top frame. Continue to pull the additional staples that are under the wire-on holding the top material across the rear bow.

To remove the top material from the header, it will need to be unlatched, and the top needs to be retracted about halfway down to expose the underside of the header bow.

There is a variation on how the materials are attached on the C1 models. Several screws hold a metal retainer strip across the rubber weatherstrip seal that must be removed to reveal the tack strip that the top decking material is attached to.

C2 and C3 models have a front-sewn, 1/2-inch, rubber-core weather seal stapled across the leading edge of the header bow. This is removed by lifting the staples that hold it to the header bow. Under the weather seal are staples that secure the top material to the header bow. There is also a second rubber weather seal that attached to the header bow with small trim screws and plastic T-fasteners that will also need to be removed.

With the staples removed from the header bow tack strip, the top material can now be peeled back from the header bow. Before removing the rest of the top material, loosen the tops of the rear straps from the rear bow by pulling the staples that secure them to the rear bow.

On the C1, the small, rubber deck weather seal must be unscrewed from the leading end of the rear deck bow tack rail.

Bow Measurement

Before the rear deck bow is removed from the car and the balance of the top material removed, take a critical measurement. Without this measurement, your new top will not fit the car properly, and you will have a very difficult time trying to make it fit.

Measure the distance between the vertical side rail and the front edge on the rear deck bow, and write the measurement down on the instruction sheet that came with your convertible top kit. This measurement will need to be referenced when you are ready to fit the new top to the rear deck bow. The measurement can vary from side to side and on each model of Corvette, so do not assume that it will be the same every time.

Take a measurement from the edge of the vertical side rail to the leading end of the rear bow before the rear bow of the C3 is removed. To get the proper fit, this distance must be observed, otherwise the new top material will not fit correctly.

Each Corvette top installation can vary a little, and getting the deck bow measurement correct is vital to the top material fitting the top frame. Transferring the correct measurement to the new C2 top material will make all the difference in the final appearance of the installed top.

The rear deck bow measurement on a C1 is taken from the face of the vertical side rail to the center point of the deck bow pivot bolt. This distance must be observed when installing the new top; it ensures that the top will fit the top frame without any extra wrinkles.

Removal of the side tension cable requires that the rivet anchoring the rear of the cable to the frame be drilled out. A 3/16-inch drill bit makes quick work of eliminating the rivet to release the cable from the top frame.

Side tension cables were a welcome addition to the C3 Corvettes to help with the buffeting issue when they were driven at higher speeds. The front of the tension cable is secured to the side rail of the frame with a small sheet metal screw.

With the convertible top material pulled back, the rear deck bow attaching pivot bolt can be easily accessed for removal. Simple hand tools, such as a wrench and screwdriver, are used to remove the locking acorn nut that secures the pivot bolt to the top frame.

An added feature on the C3 was the side tension cables to help keep the convertible top from buffeting while driven at higher speeds. The cable is connected to the forward section of the side rail near the header bow. The cable is held in place with a rivet or small sheet metal screw. Relieve the tension on the cable by lifting the header bow about a foot off the windshield, and then remove the fastener.

The rear of the cable is fastened to the top of the vertical section on the side rail with a pop rivet. The rivet is removed by drilling it out with a 3/16-inch high-speed drill bit. Use care when drilling. You do not want to enlarge the hole in the side rail. Once the cable has been disconnected from the frame, the rear deck bow can then be removed.

After the bow distance has been measured and recorded, the rear deck bow can be removed from the car. On the C1, use a wrench and a screwdriver to remove the pivot bolt that goes through the bow and pivot point on the convertible top frame. Once the bolt is removed, reinsert the bolt through the bow, and replace the washer and acorn nut to keep the bushing in place and prevent the accidental loss of the attaching hardware.

This rear deck bow requires the use of a large Phillips screwdriver to remove the machine screws that secure the pivot bracket to the rear deck bow. The screws are accessed from the inside, near the front of the rear deck bow.

While working on the bench, the hold-in cord and rear rubber weather seal have already been removed from the rear deck bow. Release the top material by prying out the small, beaded flap from inside the channel in the rear deck bow.

On the C2 and C3, there are two Phillips-head machine screws that hold the rear deck bow to a pivoting bracket on the inside of the leading end of the bow. Use a #3 Phillips screwdriver to remove the machine screws to release the bow from the pivot bracket.

Place the old top and rear deck bow on the workbench. The C1 top is attached to the rear deck bow by staples. Remove the staples with a staple puller to free the material from the rear bow. On a 1961 and 1962 C1, the top material and rear rubber weather seal was held in by a nylon cord that was pressed into a channel in the bow. Pull the hold-in cord out to release the top material.

The hold-in cord was also used on the C2 and C3 models. Use a small screwdriver to pry the nylon hold-in cord from the retaining channel to release the rubber weather seal and top material from the rear deck bow. Set the old top aside for reference later if needed.

Top Pad Removal

Underneath the convertible top is a set of protective pads that hold the correct position of the cross bows and keep the top material from becoming damaged from the hard, steel top frame.

Removal of the top pads requires that the cover tape over the staples along the front of the pad and the staples at the rear of the pad material be pulled to allow the material inside the pad to be removed. After the staples have been lifted, the pads can be opened to reveal the padding. Remove and discard the old padding material.

Removing the Top Pad

1 Now that the convertible top material has been removed from the top frame, we can see that years of wear have taken their toll on the protective top pads. Remove and replace the old pads with a new pair to protect the new convertible top.

2 At the front of the top pads, remove the body tape to access the staples that secure the pads to the header bow. Protective tape was placed over the staples to prevent them from damaging the inside of the top material.

3 More staples are removed from the rear bow. The back end of the top’s protective pad is removed so that the top frame can be inspected and serviced. A new set of convertible top pads will soon be installed on the newly reconditioned top frame.

4 Inside the convertible top pads are many small machine screws that hold the protective pad to the cross bows of the convertible top frame. The screws are also necessary to maintain the position of the cross bows that give shape and support to the convertible top material.

You should now be able to see the small screws and washers that hold the pad in place on the cross bows of the frame. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Be careful that you do not break them off while removing the screws from the bow. If they break or have been replaced by some other method, do not panic. Please refer to the Broken Screws section in chapter 10 of this book.

Inspecting the Frame

With the pads removed, we can now evaluate the condition of the top frame. The first thing to look for is any obvious problem with the frame, such as missing bolts or broken rivets. These will need to be replaced before the frame can be serviced. Other issues often found are stress cracks or failed welds in the top frame. When one component fails, it most likely has an adverse effect on the top frame, causing other parts to compensate and they too will develop problems that must be corrected.

The most common issue associated with a Corvette frame is a rusty header bow. Typically, the retaining tabs for the underlying tack strip are broken or too weak to retain the new tack strip, and this condition must be repaired before continuing. Also check for broken screws in the cross bows and repair them.

Once the frame is serviceable, begin to fold the top frame up and down, and listen for any grinding noises or binding of the frame. This would indicate a bent component that will need to be corrected before proceeding. Sometimes all the frame needs is a good cleaning and some light lubrication to get it to fold correctly again. After the top has been proven to fold properly, proceed with the reinstallation of the top.

This vital pivot bolt is missing, and it is the major cause of the convertible top frame not operating correctly. Replace the missing bolt with the correct shoulder bolt and then fix the other damage caused by folding the top without the bolt.

Broken welds were found on the left side rail due to the missing pivot bolt. Repair this before a new convertible top and pads can be fitted to the top frame. If this damage is not fixed, the new top will surely become damaged.

A lot of grinding has been done to remove the old welds that had failed on the top frame. It was necessary to go to the trouble of getting the metal back to a condition so that the top frame can be reassembled to the way it came from the factory.

A lot of care went into draping the car with a welding blanket to protect the car and prevent any unforeseen problems during the welding process. The new welds have made the convertible top frame strong and have restored its function to like-new condition.

More top frame problems were found and needed to be corrected. The header bow was welded to the side rail of the frame, and it was no longer able to be adjusted. By removing the welds and incorrect mounting hardware and then installing the correct hardware, the joint was made adjustable again.

Header Bow Tack Strip

Inspect the header bow for rust and damage and make the necessary repairs before proceeding with the new top installation. On the underside of the header bow is a long tack strip that holds the top material and front weather seal to the header bow. This tacking material should be replaced to ensure that the new top will be secured tightly to the bow. On the top side of the header bow are two smaller tack strips. These are used to secure the front end of the pads. Please refer to the header bow restoration section of this book on how to replace and repair the tack strip and header bow.

Before the header bow can be removed and serviced, the retainer screws were removed from the header trim panel on the C3. This will allow us to properly recondition the panel and then weld in new retainer tabs for the header bow tack strip.

Remove the alignment pins from the header bow with a 12-point 1/4-inch socket. The socket used to remove the bolt has been ground down and modified to be thinner to fit the close proximity of the bolt head to the alignment pin.

The reconditioned header trim panel was refastened to the header bow with the correct hardware after it was cleaned and given a fresh coat of color. A new fiber tack strip was also installed after the missing retaining tabs were welded in to replace the ones that were rusted away.

Top Frame Adjustment

With the reconditioned header bow back on the car, the convertible top frame can be adjusted so that the window gaps and frame operation are correct. These adjustments must be done before the new top and pads are fitted.

Begin by attaching the rubber side rail weatherstrip sections to the convertible top frame. This will help serve as a reference point for the correct positioning of the top frame as the door glass meets the rubber weather seal. Roll the door glass all the way up to get the proper adjustment for the top frame.

It may also be necessary to adjust the door glass to make the top frame fit better. This requires removal of the door panels to gain access to the inner-door window regulator. If you are not familiar with the procedure on how to adjust the door glass, it may be helpful to consult the Corvette service manual. While the door panel is removed, it is a good time to inspect the internal regulator and replace or repair any worn or damaged components before reinstalling the door panels.

I find it the easiest to work on one side of the top frame at a time. Loosen the retaining nuts at the rear attachment point of the frame and also the header bow fasteners so that the top frame can be moved into proper alignment. Vertical adjustments are made by moving the frame up or down into the correct position over the top of the door glass.

The rear vertical frame adjustment is made by loosening the header fasteners on the side rail and moving the frame forward or backward to fit the rear edge of the door glass. Once you are satisfied with the way the frame is positioned, tighten up all of the fasteners to lock the frame in place.

It is obvious that the top frame is not properly adjusted by the large gap in the side rail of the frame. With a little finesse, reposition the top frame to eliminate the gap in the side rail and also have the proper spacing around the door glass.

Make adjustments to the C1 top frame by loosening the outer locking nuts and moving the frame either up or down to get the window gap corrected. After adjusting the tension on the inner balance link, the gap in the side rail will be straight.

The top frame has been properly aligned to meet the perimeter of the door glass. Bring the rear edge of the top frame into adjustment by loosening the header attachment hardware and moving the frame into the correct position before tightening all the hardware to lock the adjustments in place.

Adjustments to the rear vertical rail are made on the C3 by loosening these two header screws on the underside of the side rail. The spacing of the vertical rail can be moved by extending or retracting the top frame rail with the header bow adjustment.

To get the proper frame gap around the door glass, the rubber weatherstrip is installed on the convertible top frame. When the door is closed with the window up, the glass should have an even margin across the top and rear edge of the door glass.

Use a ratchet to tighten the mounting points of the top frame on the C2 Corvette after the frame has been brought into adjustment. Perform the same procedure on only one side at a time to align the frame with the door glass.

Here you can see that the rear vertical and horizontal frame rails are in perfect adjustment with the door glass. The convertible top frame can now be tightened down to retain the position of the properly adjusted frame. With the top adjusted, the new top can now be installed.

Raise and lower the frame several times and make any other adjustments that are necessary for a proper fit. After you have the top frame adjusted to fit the glass as well as it can, you can now remove the rubber weatherstrip moldings from the frame rails before cleaning and painting the convertible top frame.

Clean and Paint

After the top frame has been inspected and all adjustments and corrections have been made, the convertible top frame can be thoroughly cleaned and then painted. This is the only time that this can be done, and it gives your car a like-new appearance.

Wipe down every section of the convertible top frame to remove dirt and grime. After covering the car with a poly drape, a fresh coat of satin black enamel will make the top frame look like new again.

Clean the convertible frame with a small chip brush and Formula 409 cleaner to remove any dirt and light grease that has built up. Stubborn areas may need special solvents and cleaners to remove old glue and grime. Be careful to not get any of the solvents on the interior or paint of the car.

Each and every section of the convertible top frame is wiped down to remove the years of dirt and grime that has accumulated on it.

After the new paint has cured, it is time to recondition and install all the chrome hardware that was removed. Adjustments to the guide pins and latching hardware may be necessary so that the header bow aligns properly with the windshield.

When you have the frame clean, rinse it with clean water to remove any residue and wipe the frame down to dry it.

It is very important to drape the car with at least a 1 mil polyethylene sheeting and mask off everything that you do not want to get overspray on. After the new paint on the top frame has dried, refit the top latches and other trim pieces before installing the top pads.

Top Latches

You may need to adjust the header bow latches and guide pins after adjusting the top frame. Having the proper tension on the latches will make locking the top frame in place easier and cause less strain on the latch.

Safety issues and leaks can occur if worn and cracked nylon guide pin bushings are not replaced. The bushings are a low-cost item, and they will help your top and decklid close without damaging the painted surfaces or chrome on the guide pins.

Sometimes all you need to do is give your chrome pieces a little attention to get them in top condition. These top latches needed to be cleaned and new rubber tips added to make them function like new. After they are cleaned, they can be reinstalled.

Over time, the rubber tip of the latch will mushroom out and fail from the stress caused by being latched. A worn tip on an adjuster bolt can scratch the surface of the windshield trim and is not safe to use. New adjustment tips are readily available from Corvette Pacifica.

It is advised that you replace the damaged or missing guide pin bushings with new bushings to prevent the windshield corner moldings from getting torn. The small nylon bushings are easy to replace and cost a lot less than new corner moldings.

A small mallet is used to help set the rear deck bushings into place. These nylon bushings are often missing or broken and aid with proper rear deck alignment. They also help keep the decklid from rattling while driving.

You will find everything you need to replace the top on a Corvette inside the box of an Al Knoch Interiors convertible top kit. Each top has been made from the finest materials available anywhere, and it has been designed to exact specifications to fit your car.

Fitting a New Top

When it comes down to what top kit to buy, I always choose Al Knoch Interiors convertible tops and seat covers for my Corvette projects. These are the best products you can obtain for your Corvette, and you can be assured that the quality and authenticity is always correct. The Al Knoch top kits are shipped complete with the top, pads, and trim accessories needed to complete the installation.

Additional parts can be acquired by contacting Corvette Pacifica in California. It has all the correct weatherstripping and hardware that you may need to bring your Corvette back to perfect operating condition.

Top Pads

Installing new top pads on a frame could not be simpler. Al Knoch convertible top pads are marked on the inside of the pad decking where the cross bows line up. The kit comes with a chart showing the exact measurements of the bow placement so you can double-check the fitment, but if you just line up the marks to the cross bows, you will have great results every time.

Begin the pad installation by laying the pad over the top frame and opening the flaps to expose the inside of the decking material. Here you will see some drawn lines that indicate the bow alignment. The pads are precut to size and ready to install. Staple the front outside corner of the pad to the top header bow tack strip, and then pull the pad taut and staple the inner rear corner of the pad to the rear tacking bow just before the indent in the bow. The indent compensates for the thickness of the pad material.

New protective pads are must-have items for every new convertible top installation. It all starts with the forward end of the pad getting stapled to the header bow tack strip. This pad has been premarked for its placement on the top frame.

Al Knoch Interiors has precisely marked the bow positions on the inside of the pad material to make the pad placement much simpler. Pull on the pad to help it contour to the cross bows for a wrinkle-free fit as it is stapled in place.

Place a staple on the inside of the pad to hold it in place as it is positioned along the rear bow of the convertible top frame. After the pad has been stretched into position, add more staples to keep the pad from shifting.

An upholsterer’s regulator is used to prepunch a screw hole in the base material of the pad. The hole makes it possible to insert the small machine screw through the pad material. A tapered washer is also used to hold the pad to the bow.

Some pads use both staples and machine screws to hold the material in the correct position on the cross bow of the convertible top frame. The fasteners all must lie flat after they are applied to minimize any bumps in the surface of the pad.

Pull the pad down across the rear bow and staple the lower corner; then, move to the front inner corner and secure it to the tack strip. By attaching the corners of the pad in a cross pattern, you will get a tighter fit, making the pad conform to the curvature of the top frame. Once the corners are set, additional staples can be added to the inside ends of the pad.

With the flaps on the pad open, staple the deck material of the pad to the bows with tack strips. On the bows that require screws, align the inside edge of the pad with the indent on the bow and center the alignment mark inside the pad with the cross bow. Before the small screw and washer can be set in place, use an awl or upholsterer’s regulator to pierce a hole through the pad decking, and then insert the screw. Snug the screw down until it locks the pad material to the bow. Pull on the rear bow to make sure that the pad will lie smooth and then continue adding screws until they are all in place.

Insert the new burlap webbing and foam padding by fitting it into the open pad. Staple the materials in place along the front and rear of the pad. The top flaps can then be folded over the padding to seal it in place, and stapling across the ends finishes off the pad. The flaps are also glued down to keep them from pillowing when the car is driven.

Trim the ends of the pad flush with a utility knife to remove the excess material and padding. Apply a layer of Gorilla Tape at the front of the pad to cover the staples. The tape protects the top material from rubbing on the surface of the staples. Before the new top material can be applied to the rear deck bow, move to the workbench with the top material and rear deck bow so that some preparations can to be made.

The C1 Corvette uses a total of 28 small machine screws and washers to secure the protective pad material to the cross bows. Each cross bow has a specific place and spacing to offer the correct amount of support for the convertible top.

Modern convertible top pads use a foam filler to soften the convertible top frame. The pad has flaps that are folded over the top of the foam padding to keep it in place. Each end of the pad is stapled closed, locking the foam padding inside.

Contact cement is brushed along both of the facing edges of the flaps to seal in the foam padding. Gluing the pads closed also helps to keep the pad from ballooning up if air gets under the top while the car is being driven at highway speeds.

A sharp utility knife is used to trim the excess material from the ends of the convertible top pad. There would be too much bulk on the inside of the car if the pad was not trimmed. Trimming leaves the pad with a cleaner appearance.

Staples along the front end of the convertible top pad are covered to prevent any chafing against the underside of the convertible top. Gorilla Tape makes a strong bond and also adds a little extra padding to smooth out the pad-to-header transition.

Rear Straps

To give the top a full appearance, the Corvette uses a pair of additional straps in the rear of the top frame. These straps are either stapled in place or held onto the rear deck bow by a small metal retainer plate and machine screws.

The rear strap is fastened at the bottom edge of the rear deck bow with a small metal plate and two machine screws. This strap will extend upward and attach to the rear bow, concealing the seam in the top material and giving support to the rear window.

The straps on the C1 Corvette are stapled to the inside of the rear deck bow and wrap under the bow and then up over the outside of the bow before they are attached to the rear bow with staples. The placement of the rear straps is determined by a small notch in the rear deck bow. In the case of a reproduction rear deck bow, the straps are fitted 2⅛ inches from the center of the outer latch screw hole on each side of the rear deck bow. Measure from the inside of the bow and mark the tack strip material where the inside edge of the strap will be attached.