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CHAPTER 2

TOOLS

I have good news for those who want to learn how to install a convertible top. You do not need any special tools to get professional results while working on your convertible top and frame. However, it may be helpful to know that there are several specialty tools available to make the task of replacing a convertible top much easier.

It only takes a moment to cause serious damage to your car or yourself if a tool is improperly used. This is why I strongly recommend that you observe all safety practices when using any tool while restoring your project.

Basic tools from a well-equipped toolbox are all you need to replace a convertible top. You will need a standard socket set, ratchet, and assorted screwdrivers, along with a few simple upholstery tools (a pair of scissors, tack hammer, and a tape measure) can get the job done.

Specialty Tools

Some specialty tools make the installation and servicing of a convertible top go much smoother. These tools can be obtained from most online suppliers, or you can get them at a professional upholstery supply house.

Staple Puller

The tool you will be using most is a tack or staple puller. Staple removers are available in many different styles. The most efficient staple-removal tool that I have found is the Berry’s Staple Remover. The Berry’s is made in Lubbock, Texas, and it is a workhorse. The simple design is comfortable to use for extended periods of time and it works great at lifting the most stubborn tacks and staples. It costs less than $20, and it is well worth the investment.

Removing the old top material and pads from the frame can be a challenge. One of the best upholstery tools that I have ever used is the Berry’s Staple Remover. The unique shape of the tool fits comfortably in the hand and allows you to lift the most difficult of staples with ease.

Other tack and staple lifters are also available and do a fine job. All of these tools are sharp and can hurt you if you slip, so always use caution, pay attention, and wear safety glasses when working with staple removers.

Stapler

Every well-equipped shop should have at least one staple gun. I have several and they all are different. The reason is that each can be task specific, and yet they can be used for general assembly as well. Staplers can use a variety of staple sizes, and staple widths will vary depending on the manufacturer and model.

Manual or spring-loaded staplers are great if you do not have a power source, such as electricity or air (pneumatic). Manual staplers can be a lifesaver if you are in the field or your power stapler goes down. They will allow you to get the job done, but with a lot more effort. The cost of a manual stapler can range from $12 to $45 based on features.

Electric staplers are always useful. The biggest drawback is the physical size of the tool itself. They can be heavy and awkward at times, limiting access to staple placement. Both mechanical and electric staplers can also be limited on the amount of driving force a staple needs to penetrate the substrate to achieve a good bond. Commercial-grade electric staplers can run up to $240. Household versions are not recommended because of their light-duty cycle and will most likely fail and burn out due to the amount of use put on them.

Ultimately the stapler of choice for a trim shop would be a pneumatic or air stapler. These devices can drive a staple into just about anything by adjusting the amount of air pressure behind them. The one drawback to the pneumatic stapler is that it will require a source of air pressure. Some shops—believe it or not—do not have an air compressor, and that is just one tool that I could not live without. Air staplers are very affordable and can be purchased from $50 to $140. The big cost is in an air compressor that has enough power to make the tool work.

A heavy-duty mechanical staple gun is needed to attach convertible top material to the frame. Electric staple guns make the task less laborious, and those who can afford an air compressor may choose to use a pneumatic stapler. Any of the three options are suitable for service.

Steamer

Another tool that is of great use is a steamer. The steamer is used to help with shaping and relieving small wrinkles in the convertible top material. A steamer will not work miracles, but when used correctly, small imperfections can be removed without hurting the top material. I use a Jiffy Steamer model J-4000 professional steamer.

This steamer can be ordered with the interchangeable-head feature. The upgraded unit allows the user to change from a flat iron to a pipe wand in seconds. This makes the tool more useful, and the versatility of replacing the steamer head allows me to work faster and efficiently. A professional-model steamer will cost about $350, depending on the model and accessories you order.

Without a doubt, a steamer is a nice tool to have when finishing a convertible top installation. This model, J-4000 from Jiffy Steamer, has interchangeable hose ends that are more than capable of getting into those tight places to relax away small imperfections in the top fabric.

Heat Gun

One very powerful tool to have is a heat gun. This tool allows you to soften materials so they will assume the shape you want them to. They are most useful when working on heavy vinyl rear curtains and for setting rubber tack strips into channels. Extreme care must be taken when using a heat gun. Always remember to keep the heat gun in motion so that you do not scorch, melt, or burn your project when you are working on it.

There are some things to consider when choosing a heat gun. The first is heat settings. You need to know how hot the temperature will be at the nozzle end of the tool, and if the heat gun has a replaceable element. Another thing to look for is a cool-down or fan-only feature. This will help extend the life of the heating element. You also want a heat gun with a built-in tool rest that will allow you to set the tool down without it harming the surface you are setting it on.

Not all heat guns are equal in performance, and you should not make your decision on cost alone. Prices of heat guns range from $15 to more than $250, depending on the features of the tool.

Master Appliance: I have used a Master Appliance Model HG-501A for many years. The interchangeable heating element of this model has a temperature range from 500 to 750°F. This temperature range works great for all my interior projects. I also like the tool rest on this model because it is large enough to prevent the tool from tipping over and it is adjustable, allowing for the discharge to be positioned for static applications.

Milwaukee Tool: This type of heat gun is great for heat shrinking and other smaller projects. The Milwaukee Model 1220 is a two-speed heat gun with two preset temperature settings of 750 and 1,000°F. This type of heat gun does not have a cool-down feature to prolong the life of the non-replaceable heating element. During use, the tool can be set on its end to keep the hot discharge from causing unwanted damage.

Removing wrinkles from heavy, clear vinyl curtains is best done with a high-output heat gun, such as this model from the Master Appliance Corporation. It has all the features needed to service your projects. The light-duty Milwaukee model is best suited for heat-shrink tubing and smaller jobs.

Fluid-Matic

If you do a lot of convertible top work, the tool to have is the Fluid-Matic. This tool will allow you to service a hydraulic system with little effort. The best part about using a Fluid-Matic is there is very little hydraulic oil spillage while performing a system service. This gallon jug and pump have a unique hose setup that will allow you to fill and bleed a convertible’s hydraulic system without the mess of trying to fill and bleed a pump from a quart bottle of oil. The Fluid-Matic was developed by Paul Terry, and it is available from Convertible Service in California for less than $45.

Convertible Service makes the Fluid-Matic pump, which allows you to service the hydraulic system with almost no effort. This simple device can save you time by filling the pump reservoir to the correct level without spilling fluid while it bleeds the system for perfect operation.

1/4-inch Drive Ratchet

A big problem with convertible top replacement is the repeated removal and tightening of the rear tack rail body bolts. Often, you will find that the bolts have been over-torqued, and the holes in the body have become too large, resulting in the bolt no longer being able to hold the tack rail tight to the car.

To prevent this, I recommend the use of a fine-tooth 1/4-inch drive ratchet. The fine-tooth ratchet (84 teeth) allows you to advance the body bolt without the usual backlash of a standard (75-tooth) ratchet handle. The smaller size of the ratchet also helps prevent over-torquing merely because of the physical size of the tool.

To prevent busting your knuckles when using the smaller ratchet, I also recommend adding a 14-inch extension to the ratchet handle. You will be able to work inside the car, which makes it less strenuous on your arms than reaching and working deep inside the well area.

Use a smaller ratchet to tighten and remove the tack rail bolts to help prevent over-torquing and stripping out the sheet metal in the body of the car. Adding an extension between the socket and ratchet allows easier access to the tack rail bolts, preventing fatigue during the installation of a new top.

Protecting the finish while you replace the top requires draping the car. Various materials can be used as a protective drape. A soft terry cloth bath towel, a flannel sleeping bag, or a quilted moving blanket can all be used as a drape to protect the car’s finish while working on the top.

Car Drape

Before work begins on the car, a drape should cover the trunk and rear fenders to prevent any accidental scratches or damage to the car’s finish. I purchased some heavy bath towels and sewed two together to make the drapes for my business.

Bath towels are relatively inexpensive and yet they provide a soft barrier to work on. Other materials that are commonly used for a drape are moving blankets, old sleeping bags, and painters’ drop cloths. If you use an old sleeping bag, remove the zipper before you lay it over the car to prevent harming the paint.

Snap Setter

One of the best tools that I have ever invested in is the HooVer Products Pres-N-Snap setter. This tool has interchangeable dies used to install snap fasteners and grommets in materials. Most hand appliances will crush or dent the cap of a snap when it is installed, but this tool works perfectly every time without causing damage to the snap or the material.

It only takes a few seconds to load a fastener into the snap tool, and then a quick squeeze secures the fastener into the material where you want it. If you are making a convertible top boot cover for your car or a tonneau cover for your truck, you will like using this tool.

This is a must-have tool for achieving professional results when setting snaps in a convertible top or boot cover. The precision of this tool has saved me a lot of time and effort by getting the job done quickly without damaging the fasteners during installation.

Rivet Tools

There are many different brands and styles of rivet tools, and you may already own one. A simple pop-rivet tool is very handy to have. Most have interchangeable tips to work with different sizes of rivets. These small features allow you to use the tool on multiple projects without buying more tools.

Manual Rivet Tool

I like the swivel-head feature of the Stanley Professional model. By rotating the head of the tool, you can access areas that may not be reachable with a rigid rivet tool.

Hydraulic Rivet Tool

The Huck HK-150A is one little powerhouse of a tool. Not only will this hand-operated rivet tool install all sizes of rivets, it will also install threaded rivnuts into sheet metal with little to no effort. It comes in quite handy when repairing a stripped-out tack rail retainer hole in the body of a car. The straightforward design allows you to get the fastener in place without pinching your knuckles on the inner beltline of the car body. The ease of setting a heavy-steel 1/4-20 rivnut is made possible by the hydraulic action produced just by squeezing the handles on the tool.

Having a standard rivet tool is always a good bet when you’re starting out and need to get a job done quickly. The advanced features included with this hydraulic tool give you more power and options when you need to get into the tough places on a project.

Although the tool is a little bit on the expensive side, it greatly reduces the amount of effort needed to set a fastener, allowing you to continue working without straining your hands.