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Diamond Area Sperrgebiet 1

This territory may only be entered in the company of a concession holder, not even in one’s own car. Here, they play it safe.

The tour operator obtains the concession from the state. Punctually, the tour minibus pulls up and we settle ourselves in the soft seats. An insignificant turn-off leads to the control post under the video surveillance of Rotkopf. Beyond this point, whoever gets caught without a guide and permit is liable to spend two years in prison and pay a strict fine. The reason is soon explained: this track not only leads to the tourist sites but also serves as access to the active mining areas. There, uninvited guests are not welcome.

Entering Without a Permit May Lead to Jail Terms and Stiff Fines

The Swartberg is visible even from this distance. At this black basalt monster, you branch off to the Pomona Area; there is no signpost. The tiny track runs between the hills and, all of a sudden, the high buildings of the pump station in the Grillenthal valley emerge from the sand. It was erected in 1910 to 1912 and was worked until 1935. They had to drill down for 30 to 60 metres in order to access fresh water. This well water had to be transported by electrical railway to Pomona and Bogenfels. The electrical power was provided by Lüderitz power station. Pomona mine had an extremely high demand for water to wash the diamonds. The drinking water from Grillenthal was too precious to be used for this purpose. So the mine was provided with brackish water from another nearby well. This legendary diamond paradise was discovered by the brave Stauch together with his friend Dr. Robert Scheibe.

Within a short period of time, Stauch and the brilliant geologist, on New Year’s Eve 1908, on an area of 50 m², discovered 600 carats of diamonds, whilst presumably the others were dancing in the New Year. In 1909, Scheibe writes to his parents-in-law: ”… when, after two days of sand storms and other adverse incidents… I entered the Pomona area, lying there, all virgin… we felt like we were in paradise… as if sown out, the marvellous stones…”

You can’t see much in the ruins of Stauch’s camp. But the remains indicate how the diggers might have lived to begin with. I still recall the pictures from the museum at Kolmanskop. So I can easily imagine the harsh conditions the first diggers here in the desert had to cope with, before the settlement of Pomona developed. Concrete sleeping bunks, almost like XL stone coffins, served as night shelters to the diggers and there was a very basic common kitchen. But during the euphoria of the diamond rush, the standard of accommodation might have been of no concern.

While Ramon is driving us between the mine dumps, he tells us about many an incident. One reminds me very much of Lüderitz, who failed to discover the diamonds. Originally, the company De Pas, Spence & Co was exploring the area for copper ore. In the absence of relevant expertise, at that time, diamonds were shovelled aside in order to access the desired copper ore, albeit poor in quality. Not much time went by before diamond mining flourished in the Pomona area; but the harvest had to be delivered. This was the task of ambulance man Muhlack. Twice a month, escorted by policemen, he delivered the diamonds to Lüderitz. On each of his rides he transported diamonds at a value of one million Euro in saddle bags through the Namib Desert. At the police post at Elizabeth Bay, the men slept over and usually played a game of skat. One morning, Muhlack’s horse shied from a sheet of paper that was being blown about in the desert and threw Muhlack off. The horse disappeared towards the horizon with the diamond bags. The two mounted policemen tried to retrieve the fleeing horse, but did not succeed. In despair, they loaded their rifles and shot and killed the totally innocent horse. Muhlack, however, could fulfil his task and in the end delivered the diamonds of the Pomona mine.