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IV.
The Cheviot Hills. 7
II

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If we draw a somewhat straight line from Girvan, on the coast of Ayrshire, in a north-east direction to the shores of the North Sea, near Dunbar, we shall find that south of that line, up to the English border, nearly the whole country is composed of various kinds of greywacké and shale like the basement beds of the Cheviot district. Here and there, however, especially in certain of the valleys and some of the low-lying portions of this southern section of Scotland, one comes upon small isolated patches and occasional wider areas of younger strata, which rest upon and conceal the greywackés and shales. Such is the case in Teviotdale, the Cheviot district, and the country watered by the lower reaches of the Tweed, in which regions the bottom beds are hidden for several hundreds of square miles underneath younger rocks. Indeed, the greywacké and shale form but a very small portion of the surface in the Cheviots, appearing upon a coloured geological map like so many islands or fragments, as it were, which have somehow been detached from the main masses of greywacké of which the Lammermuirs and the uplands of Dumfries and Selkirk shires are composed. Although the bottom rocks of the Cheviot Hills are thus apparently separated from the great greywacké area, there can be no doubt that they are really connected with it, the connection being obscured by the overlying younger strata. For if we could only strip off these latter, if we could only lift aside the great masses of igneous rock and sandstone that are piled up in the Cheviot Hills and the adjoining districts, we should find that the bottom upon which these rest is everywhere greywacké and shale. In part proof of this it may be mentioned that at various places in those districts which are entirely occupied by sandstone and igneous rock, the streams have cut right down through the younger rocks so as to expose the bottom beds, as in Jed Water at Allars Mill. Again, when we trace out the boundaries of any detached areas of greywacké we invariably find these bottom beds disappearing on all sides underneath the younger strata by which they are surrounded. One such isolated area occurs in the basin of the Oxnam Water, between Littletonleys and Bloodylaws, a section across which would exhibit the general appearance shown in the accompanying diagram. Another similarly isolated patch is intersected by Edgerston Burn and the Jed Water between Paton Haugh and Dovesford. But the largest of these detached portions appears, forming the crest of the Cheviots, at the head of the River Coquet. There the basement beds occupy the watershed, extending westward, some three or four miles, as far as the sandstones of Hungry Law, while to the north and east they plunge under the igneous rocks of Brownhart Law and the Hindhope Hills. Now it is evident that all those detached and isolated areas of greywacké and shale are really connected underground, and not only so, but they also piece on in the same way to the great belt of similar strata that stretches from sea to sea across the whole breadth of Scotland. Indeed, we may observe in the Cheviot district how long and massive promontories of greywacké jut out from that great belt, and extend often for miles into the areas that are covered with younger strata, as, for example, in the Brockilaw and Wolfelee Hills. A generalised section across the greywacké regions of the Cheviot Hills would therefore present the appearances shown in the annexed diagram, in which G represents the basement beds, I the igneous rocks, and C the red sandstones, etc.

Throughout the whole of the district under review the bottom beds are observed to dip at a high angle – the strata in many places being actually vertical – and the edges or crops of the strata run somewhat persistently in one direction, namely, from south by west to north by east; or, as a geologist would express it, the beds have an approximately south-west and north-east “strike.” Now as the dip is sometimes to north-west and sometimes to south-east, it is evident that the rocks have been folded up in a series of rapid convolutions, and that some of the beds must be often repeated.

From the character of the fossils which the bottom beds have yielded we learn that the strata belong to that division of past time which is known as the Silurian age. These fossils appear to be of infrequent occurrence, and the creatures of which they are the relics occupied rather a humble place in the scale of being. They are called graptolites (from their resemblance to pens), an extinct group of hydroid zoophytes, apparently resembling the sertularians of our own seas.

The general appearance of the Silurian strata of the Cheviots is indicative of deposition in comparatively quiet water, but how deep that water was one cannot say. Upon the whole, the beds look not unlike the sediments that gather in calm reaches of the sea, such as estuaries, betokening the presence of some not distant land from which fine mud and sand were washed down. Another proof that some of the strata at all events were accumulated not far from a shore-line, is found in certain coarse bands of grit and pebbles, which are not likely to have been formed in deep water. This evidence, however, cannot be considered decisive, and in the present state of our knowledge all that we can assert with anything like confidence is simply this: – That during the deposition of the Silurian strata the whole of the Cheviot area lay under water – existed, in short, as a muddy sea-bottom, in the slime of which flourished here and there, in favourable spots, those minute hydroid animals called graptolites.

Between the deposition of the Silurian and the formation of the rocks that come next in order a long interval elapsed, during which the mud, sand, and grit that gathered on the floor of the ancient sea were hardened into solid masses, and eventually squeezed together into great folds and undulations. It has already been pointed out that these changes could hardly have been effected save under extreme pressure, and this consideration leads us to infer that a great thickness of strata has been removed entirely from the Cheviot district, so as to leave no trace of its former existence. Long before the deposition of the younger strata that now rest upon and conceal the Silurian rocks, the action of the denuding forces – the sea, frosts, rain, and rivers – had succeeded in not only sweeping gradually away the strata underneath which the bottom beds were folded, but in deeply scarping and carving these bottom beds themselves. Can we form any reasonable conjecture as to the geological age of the strata underneath which the bottom beds of the Cheviots were folded, and which, as we have seen, had entirely disappeared before the younger rocks of the district were accumulated? Well, it is obvious that the missing strata must have been of later formation than the bottom beds, and it is equally evident that they must have been of much more ancient date than the igneous rocks of the Cheviot Hills. Now, as we shall afterwards see, these igneous rocks belong to the Old Red Sandstone age, that is to say, to the age that succeeded the Silurian. How is it then, if the bottom beds be really of Silurian and the igneous rocks of Old Red Sandstone age, that a gap is said to exist between them? The explanation of this apparent contradiction is not far to seek. When we compare the fossils that occur in the Silurian strata of the Cheviot Hills and the districts to the west, with the organic remains disinterred from similar strata elsewhere, as in Wales for example, we find that the bottom beds of the Cheviots were in all probability accumulated at approximately the same time as certain strata that occur in the middle division of the Upper Silurian. In Wales and in Cumberland the strata that approximate in age to the Silurian of the Cheviots are covered by younger strata belonging to the same formation which reach a thickness of several thousand feet. It may quite well be, therefore, that the succession of Silurian strata in the Cheviots was at one time more complete than it is now. The upper portions of the formation which are so well developed in Wales and Cumberland, and which are likewise represented to a small extent in Scotland, had in all probability their equivalents in what are our border districts. In other words, there are good grounds for believing that the existing Silurian rocks of the Cheviots were in times preceding the Old Red Sandstone age covered with younger strata belonging to the same great system. The missing Silurian strata of the Cheviots may have attained a thickness of several thousand feet, and underneath such a mass of solid rock the lower-lying strata might well have been consolidated and subsequently squeezed into folds.

We now pass on to consider the next chapter in the geological history of the Cheviot Hills. As we proceed in our investigations it will be noticed that the evidence becomes more abundant, and we are thus enabled to build up the story of the past with more confidence, and with fuller details. For it is with geological history as with human records – the further back we go in time the scantier do the facts become. The rocks upon which Nature writes her own history are palimpsests, on which the later writing is ever the most easily deciphered. Nay, she cannot compile her newer records without first destroying some of those compiled in earlier times. The sediments accumulating in modern lake and sea are but the materials derived from the degradation of the rocks we see around us, just as these in like manner have originated from the demolition of yet older strata. Thus the further we trace back the history of our earth, the more fragmentary must we expect the evidence to be; and conversely, the nearer we approach to the present condition of things the more abundant and satisfactory must the records become. Accordingly, we find that the igneous rocks of the Cheviot Hills tell us considerably more than the ancient Silurian deposits upon which they rest. The surface of the latter appears to be somewhat irregular underneath the igneous rocks, showing that hills and valleys, or an undulating table-land, existed in the Cheviot district prior to the appearance of the younger formation. But before we attempt to summarise the history of that formation, it is necessary to give some description, however short, of the rocks that compose it.

These consist chiefly of numerous varieties of a rock called porphyrite by geologists, piled in more or less irregular beds, one on top of another, in a somewhat confused manner. The colour of the freshly fractured rocks is very variable, being usually some shade of blue or purple; but pink, red, brown, greenish, and dark grey or almost black varieties also occur. Some of the rocks are finely crystalline; others, again, are much coarser, while many are compact, or nearly so, a lens being required to detect a crystalline texture. The mineral called felspar is usually scattered more or less abundantly through the matrix or base, which itself is composed principally of felspathic materials. Besides distinct scattered crystals of felspar, other minerals often occur in a similar manner; mica and hornblende being the commonest. Occasionally the rocks contain numerous circular, oval, or flattened cavities, which are sometimes so abundant as to give the appearance of a kind of coarse slag to the porphyrite. These little cavities, however, are usually filled up with mineral matter – such as calcspar, calcedony, jasper, quartz, etc. Sometimes also cracks, crannies, and crevices of some size have been sealed up with similar minerals. Now nearly all these appearances are specially characteristic of rocks which have at one time been in a state of igneous fusion; nor can there be any doubt that the Cheviot porphyrites are merely solidified lava-beds, which have been poured out from the bowels of the earth. In modern lavas we may notice not only a crystalline texture, but frequently also we observe those in our porphyrites. Such cavities are due to the expansive force of the vapours imprisoned in the molten mass at the time of eruption. They form chiefly towards the upper surface of a lava stream, and are often drawn out or flattened in the direction in which the lava flows. Thus a stream of lava, as it creeps on its way, becomes slaggy and scoriaceous or cindery above and in front, and as the molten mass within continues to flow, the slags and cinders that cover its face tumble down before it, and form the pavement upon which the stream advances. In this way slags and cinders become incorporated with the bottom of the lava, and hence it is that so many volcanic rocks are scoriaceous, as well below as above. The vapours which produce the cavities usually contain minerals in solution, and these, as the lava cools, are frequently deposited, partially filling up the vesicles, so as to form what are called geodes. But many of the cavities have been filled in another way – by the subsequent infiltration of water carrying mineral matter in solution. And since we know that all rocks are so permeated by water, it is clear that the cavities may have received their contents during many successive periods, after the solidification of the rock in which they occur. It is in this manner that the jaspers, calcedony, and beautiful agates of commerce have been formed. Rocks abundantly charged with cavities are said to be vesicular, and when the vesicles are filled with mineral matter, then the mass becomes, in geological language, amygdaloidal, from the almond-like shape assumed by the flattened vesicles.

Now all the appearances described above, and many others hardly less characteristic of true lavas, are to be met with amongst those porphyrites which, as I have said, form the major portion of the Cheviot Hills. From the valley of the Oxnam, east by Cessford, Morebattle, and Hoselaw, and south by Edgerston, Letham, Browndeanlaws, and Hindhope, the porphyrites extend over the whole area, sweeping north-east across the border on to the heights above the Rivers Glen and Till. In the hills at Hindhope we notice a good display of the oldest beds of the series. At the base occurs a very peculiar rock resting upon the Silurian, and thus forming the foundation of the porphyrites. It varies in colour, being pink, grey, green, red, brown, or variously mottled. Sometimes it is fine-grained and gritty, like a soft, coarse-grained sandstone; at other times it is not unlike a granular porphyrite; but when most typically developed it consists of a kind of coarse angular gravel embedded in a gritty matrix. The stones sometimes show distinct traces of arrangement into layers; but they are often heaped rudely together with little or no stratification at all. They consist chiefly of fragments of porphyrites; but bits of Silurian rocks also occur amongst them. This peculiar deposit unquestionably answers to the heaps of dust, sand, stones, and bombs which are shot out of modern volcanoes; it is a true tuff – that is, a collection of loose volcanic ejectamenta.

Upon what kind of surface did it fall? Long before the eruptions began, the Silurian rocks had been sculptured into hills and valleys by the action chiefly of the sub-aërial forces, and it was upon these hills and in these valleys that the igneous materials accumulated. It is difficult to say, however, whether at this period the Cheviot district was above or under water. The traces of bedding in the tuff would seem to indicate the assorting power of water; but the evidence is too slight to found upon, because we know that in modern eruptions, loose ejectamenta frequently assume a kind of irregular bedded arrangement. For aught we can say to the contrary, therefore, dry land may have extended across what is now southern Scotland and northern England when the first rumblings of volcanic disturbance shook the Cheviot area. Be that as it may, we know that the volcanic outbursts began in those old times, as they almost invariably commence now, by a discharge of sand, small stones, blocks, and cinders. These, we may infer, covered a wide area round the centre of dispersion – the chief focus of eruption being probably in the vicinity of the big Cheviot, where a mass of granite seems to occupy the core or deep-seated portion of the old volcanic centre. The locality where the tuff occurs is some nine miles or so distant from this point, and the intervening ground could hardly have escaped being more or less thickly sprinkled with the same materials. The whole of that intervening ground, however, now lies deeply buried under the massive streams of once-molten rock that followed in succession after the first dispersion of stones and débris. Although, as I have said, it may be doubted whether at the beginning of their activity the Cheviot volcanoes were sub-aqueous, yet there are not a few facts that lead to the inference that the eruption of the porphyrites took place for the most part, if not exclusively, under water. The beds are occasionally separated by layers of sandstone, grit, and conglomerate; but such beds are rare, and true tuffs are rarer still. If the outbursts had been sub-aërial, we ought surely to have met with these latter in greater abundance, while we should hardly have expected to find such evidently water-arranged strata as do occur here and there. The porphyrites themselves present certain appearances which lead to the same conclusion. Thus we may observe how the bottoms of the beds frequently contain baked or hardened sand and mud, showing that the molten rock had been poured out over some muddy or sandy bottom, and had caught up and enclosed the soft, sedimentary materials, which now bear all the marks of having been subjected to the action of intense heat. Sometimes, indeed, the old lava-streams seem to have licked up beds of unconsolidated gravel, the water-worn stones being now scattered through their under portions. As no fossils occur in any of the beds associated with the porphyrites, one cannot say whether the latter flowed into the sea or into great freshwater lakes. Neither can we be certain that towards their close the eruptions were not sub-aërial. They may quite well have been so. The porphyrites attain a thickness of probably not less than fifteen hundred or two thousand feet, and the beds which we now see are only the basal, and therefore the older portions of the old volcanoes. The upper parts have long since disappeared, the waste of the igneous masses having been so great that only the very oldest portions now remain, and these, again, are hewn and carved into hill and valley. Any loose accumulation of stones and débris, therefore, which may have been thrown out in the later stages of the eruptions, must long ere this have utterly disappeared. We can point to the beds which mark the beginning of volcanic activity in the Cheviots; we can prove that volcanoes continued in action there for long ages, great streams of lava being poured out – the eruptions of which were preceded and sometimes succeeded by showers of stones and débris; we can show, also, that periods of quiescence, more or less prolonged, occasionally intervened, at which times water assorted the sand and mud, and rounded the stones, spreading them out in layers. But whether this water action took place in the sea or in a lake we cannot tell. Indeed, for aught one can say, some of the masses of rounded stones I refer to may point to the action of mountain torrents, and thus be part evidence that the volcanoes were sub-aërial. If we are thus in doubt as to some of the physical conditions that obtained in the Cheviot district during the accumulation of the porphyrites and their associated beds, we are left entirely to conjecture when we seek to inquire into the conditions that prevailed towards the close of the volcanic period. For just as we have proof that before this period began the Silurian strata had been subjected to the most intense denudation – had, in short, been worn into hill and valley – so do we learn from abundant evidence that the rocks representing the old volcanoes of the Cheviots are merely the wrecks of formerly extensive masses. Not only have the upper portions of these volcanoes been swept away, but their lower portions, likewise, have been deeply incised, and thousands of feet of solid rock have been carried off by the denuding forces. And by much the greater part of all this waste took place before the accumulation of those sandstones which now rest upon the worn outskirts of the old volcanic region.

Fragments of Earth Lore: Sketches & Addresses Geological and Geographical

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