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THE ALCANTARA RIVER VALLEY

The Alcantara River rises at 1200m above sea level in the Nebrodi mountains in the northeastern triangle of Sicily, and flows eastwards for 48km to the Ionian Sea. En route it passes between the rugged Peloritani range and the imposing volcanic flanks of Etna. Heading towards the coast it runs through several striking gorges, patiently channelled out over geological time by the impetuous watercourse, which swells with spring snowmelt from the volcano and seasonal rain.

Eons ago a minor volcano discharged a massive flow of lava that followed the same course, spreading a good 20km. The rock is basalt, solidified from a long-gone volcanic cone. This translates into flashing black walls of infinite angles that reflect the sparkling waters.

Tree trunks carried by the current once served as makeshift links between one bank and the other, though ruins of numerous bridges still dot the banks – presumably the reason for the Arabic origin for Alcantara, from al Qàntarah for ‘bridge’. Fertile imaginations however attribute the origin to a legendary construction thrown across by the devil in a single night. In any case historical records of navigating the waterway date back to ancient times, many involving the proximity of the first Greek colony in Sicily, at Naxos below Taormina.

The most spectacular stretch of the river – and one of Sicily’s top tourist attractions – is the Gole di Larderia, usually referred to as the Gole dell’Alcantara, 15km inland and well signposted. A narrow gauge railway ran along the valley 1958–1978 and encouraging talks are currently underway to re-open the line for tourists. In the meantime the area is accessible by either car or Interbus on the SS 185. Steps lead down to the valley floor (note: there’s a free-of-charge ‘Comunale’ entrance).

Teeth-chilling cold water flows through the narrow cliff passage, and many visitors opt for waders to explore. Be warned that it is usually closed after heavy rain due to debris which obstructs the river and poses dangers for visitors, while on good days it can get very crowded.

Wading up the Alcantara gorge

In quieter spots, animal life can be expected in the shape of frogs and toads, the rare Hermann’s tortoise and other more common types, a number of harmless snakes, and a host of water birds such as grey herons.

In addition to the gorge, the surrounds offer worthwhile walks in the realms of a newly established park which extends along the course of the river, encompassing over 31,000 hectares. The Parco Fluviale dell’Alcantara (Alcantara River Park) has its headquarters at Francavilla di Sicilia Tel 0942-9899 or www.parcoalcantara.it.

Bathing at the Alcantara River gorge

WALK 3

Monte Mojo

Start/Finish	Mojo Alcantara
Distance	4km/2.4 miles
Ascent/Descent	200m/200m
Grade	1–2
Time	2hr 15min (1hr 15min with a car)
Access	Mojo Alcantara lies some 28km inland from Taormina and 10km from Francavilla, to which it is linked by bus on weekdays, courtesy of the Interbus line. Those arriving by car need the SS 185 which turns east away from the Ionian coast, a short distance south of Taormina. Drivers coming from Randazzo can take the SS 129 as far as Passo Pisciaro then turn north for Mojo.
Variant	If you are arriving by car you can cut 1hr off timing by driving as far the path start. Refreshments are available at Mojo.

Mojo (also spelt Moio) is a sleepy backwater in the Alcantara hinterland. In addition to the sweet juicy peaches it produces, the main reason to pay a visit is the curious 703m-high mound at the rear of the village. The long-extinct volcano is recognisable from afar standing out in a blaze of unbelievably bright yellow broom in springtime. It was long believed to have pre-dated Etna itself, and fed on the same underground lava pool. Back in the mists of time the modest vulcanetto exploded and spewed ash and volcanic bombs over the surrounding countryside. Moreover Monte Mojo was long held responsible for spilling the thick river of lava that flooded the Alcantara valley, partially blocking the course of the river and leading to the formation of its spectacular gorges. However, more recent credible theories attribute this to Monte Dolce on the Etna massif.

The local people tell a different tale to explain the mount’s presence. Once upon a time two farmers who were brothers made their home here. One was unfortunately blind and the other, named Mojo, decidedly evil-intentioned, and hid the harvest. This was brought to the attention of the Almighty who took appropriate action: a massive bolt of lightning struck the wrongdoer, turning him into a huge black volcano, rooted to the spot; it consequently exploded as Mojo spewed out his anger!

While unpretentious, the remaining cone is well worth visiting both for its panoramas and the wonderful display of wild orchids it puts on in the late spring.

The Walk

Leave the sleepy village of Mojo (525m) and head north past the petrol station at the start of Via Vanella Mojo. Not far after the cemetery as the road curves right for Malvagna, leave it for a minor road straight ahead (closed to heavy traffic). Climbing a little, it passes a fascinating old quarry, where contrasting deep red and black layers of pyroclastic material underlie the bright green and yellow of broom and ferulas. A little way uphill at a stone hut is the path start, announced by a signpost (30min). At a sharp left a broad, well-constructed path of lava blocks heads west between olive groves and oaks. Check the low walls for pieces of volcanic bombs. An easy steady climb ensues to the grassed rim of the extinct volcano and a fork. Below, survivors of a long-gone orchard straggly grape vines and chestnut trees nestle inside the crater. Turn left for the narrowing path which ascends more steeply on rougher terrain. This slope is thick with insect orchids. On top of Monte Mojo (703m), the wonderful views are dominated by majestic Etna, with the Nebrodi range to the northwest and Peloritani northeast, including Monte Castelluzzo close-by.

It’s worth completing the entire circle of the rim, taking care on the steep descent to the fork, Return to the path start and Mojo the same way you came. Accommodationsee Walk 4 for Francavilla or Walk 41 for Randazzo

WALK 4

Francavilla and the River

Start/Finish	Municipio at Francavilla
Distance	3km/1.8 miles
Grade	1–2
Time	2hr
Access	Francavilla lies on the SS 185, 18km inland from the Ionian coast. The daily Interbus service from Taormina stops outside the Municipio (town council), as does the weekdays-only direct run to and from Catania.

When the pioneer Greek colony of Naxos on the Ionian coast was devastated in 403 BC by the tyrant of Siracusa, exiles made their way inland to found less vulnerable settlements such as that on the hilly location of present-day Francavilla in the Alcantara valley. It expanded and flourished over the centuries under noble dynasties, and was defended by a castle in Norman times. Its position is strategic par excellence, occupying a slender triangular ridge surveying the inland and mountain ranges including Etna, while looking down to the Ionian coast at the same time. The Alcantara river below was said to have run red with blood during a fierce battle in 1719 between the Spanish and Austrians for the control of Sicily (won by Spain, the start of a lengthy period of domination). Though the late medieval fortress itself now stands in tattered ruins, the marvellous views are intact.

The name of the town – officially known as Francavilla di Sicilia (to distinguish it from the other seven eponymous settlements in Italy) – is explained in several ways: according to the authorised version it comes from the French, ‘Franc Ville’, as the town was exempt from feudal taxes until 1538. However, the locals seem to prefer the fanciful story that tells of Louis, a Dauphin of France, falling in love with and kidnapping Angelina, a lass from the town. In vain had she encouraged her governess to keep watch, encouraging her with ‘Franca, vigghia!’ the dialect for ‘Franca, keep watch!’

Francavilla’s ruined castle and views to the coast

The walk entails a straightforward if steep climb to the castle lookout, followed by a pleasant stretch through citrus orchards along the renowned river. Most of the route corresponds to the Alcantara Park nature trail ‘le Gurne’ with info boards.

The Walk

From the Municipio at Francavilla (320m) turn southeast along an old basalt-paved road through the old part of town. Many houses still sport elaborately decorated stone balconies and hefty carved portals. Past the Chiesa del Carmine keep straight on Via Ruffo, in ascent. At lovely Villa Luisa Maria, its garden shaded by swaying Canary palm trees, fork left to reach the squat belltower and church in Piazza Matrice.

The lane above the fountain leads past a sign for the 16th-century castle (ruderi castello mediovale), and to a concrete ramp uphill. A path takes over, climbing steadily south past derelict sheds. Overgrown at times, it leads onto open hillsides thick with stunning spring orchids. A ridge is soon gained, where inspiring views range from the Peloritani mountains west, with the highest peak Montagna Grande, and all the way down the Alcantara River valley past the precarious village of Motta Camastra to the Ionian Sea. Moreover close at hand are the castle ruins (50min, 450m), beyond which stands the photogenic town of Castiglione di Sicilia backed by the almost ghostly presence of Etna. It is possible to clamber up a narrow path amongst the crumbling walls on the narrow ridge, but take special care as it is a little exposed and can be slippery.

Return the same way to Piazza Matrice (20min). Turn left down the narrow street lined with tiny stone dwellings to Piazza San Francesco, site of a museum. Continue in the same direction on Via S. Francesco which soon becomes an unsurfaced lane. This passes an archaeological site under plastic roofing where evidence of a 4th-century BC settlement of exiles from Naxos has been discovered. Take the next lane left for the descent towards the river. Through scented orange groves you curve beneath the castle. Soon after a prominent oak tree, turn right on a path lined by a high stone wall. Not far along are stone steps that drop to the peaceful banks of the Alcantara River at an iron footbridge (30min, 300m), property of the Electricity Commission ENEL. This is a good spot for a picnic with the shade of oleander trees, and allows you to admire the smooth black rock flanks, and even a kingfisher or harmless black snake. Note the curious system of irrigation channels that branch off at the nearby cascades; they date back hundreds of years to the Arabic period and, still referred to in local dialect as saja, the original term, they convey precious water to the thirsty citrus orchards. Long stretches are hewn into the volcanic rock face.

Return to the upper lane and turn right (east). A major irrigation channel is soon crossed, followed by a drop beneath a curious overhang of smooth lava overlaying jagged strata. Remnants of an ancient bridge are visible on the opposite riverbank, while close at hand an old mill stands well below the castle. Here fork left as per the nature trail, in gentle ascent along the flanks of the hill, thick with orchids in springtime. A picnic area is a good spot to enjoy the lovely views, before you enter the town again and shortly reach Piazza Matrice. Walk back along Via Ruffo to the Municipio of Francavilla. Accommodation Hotel L’Orange Tel 0942-981374 B&B Quattareddu Tel 0942-982693 or 333-2972877

The Alcantara River below Francavilla