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INTRODUCTION

Italy without Sicily forms no image at all in the soul; only here is the key to everything.

J.W. von Goethe, Italian Journey (1786–1788)

Background

The early history of Sicily (Sicilia in Italian) is enveloped in misty legends, with credit for first settling the island going to a motley band of giants. Invincible offspring attributed to Zeus, they enjoyed but a short-lived sojourn as they were punished for challenging the ruling gods. The handful of survivors were bound in chains and banished to underworld forges beneath the island’s volcanoes to fashion arms for the gods, such as thunderbolts for Zeus. To this day they struggle and moan, attempting to break free and shake off the weight of the immense mountains. Ancient sources, in fact, refer to the discovery of huge skeletons in caves, though they were assumed to be marine animal remains washed up by the Flood! The mythical one-eyed Cyclops followed, bloodthirsty cannibals who played havoc with passing sailors, including Ulysses on his epic voyage.

Archaeological evidence places prehistoric inhabitants around 13,000 years BC. Sicily’s strategic crossroads location in the Mediterranean ensured the arrival of settlers, plunderers, conquerors and visitors from all directions, resulting in a fascinating melting pot of cultures. Major colonisers in the 13th–11th century BC were the immigrant Elymian, Sicel and Sican populations, who lent their name to the island. Subsequently there were Phoenician settlements, prior to a landmark Greek take-over (8th–6th centuries BC) and widespread Hellenisation of language and civilisation, not to mention a name change to Trinacria, for the island’s three-pointed shape. Impressive extant temple and city ruins illustrate this period. In the 3rd century BC Sicily became the first province of Rome – the island’s fertile land later earning it the denomination ‘granary’ of the empire.

Views over the Kalura from the Rocca (Walk 33)

A brief period of Byzantine rule was followed by the productive Arab epoch, which witnessed the introduction of irrigation techniques, fish preservation and silk farming, as well as some memorable architecture and a wealth of place names: kalat for castle is fairly common and has survived in Caltanisetta, marsa for port explains Marsala (port of Allah), gebel or ‘mount’ can be seen in Mongibello, another name for Etna. The subsequent Norman period (11th–12th century) added to this precious legacy with religious tolerance, rich art works, feudalism and a Latinising influence. Noteworthy rulers were Roger II, who employed the celebrated Arab geographer al-Idrisi, and William ‘the Good’.

Temple at Selinunte (Walk 19)

Sicily was later joined with Naples to form the ‘Kingdom of the Two Sicilies’, stretching from the mid-15th to the mid-19th century. It was not until 1860, with the advent of the revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi, that the island was freed from Bourbon rule and the Sicilians joined the fledgling united Italy.

More recently, island life was convulsed during World War Two, ending with the Allied landings in 1943 for the move north and the liberation of occupied Italy. In 1946 Sicily was declared an autonomous region, with a special statute and governing body that enjoys a high degree of political independence.

One unique phenomena needs a brief comment in the context of history: the Mafia. It is believed to have originated in the Middle Ages to overthrow foreign invaders, its members taken from the private armies (mafie) of landlords. The nefarious organisation known to insiders as Cosa Nostra (our affair) continues to prosper parallel to state authority, rife with age-old payoffs and rivalries. It was dealt a near mortal blow under fascism; however the war years meant recovery, possibly aided by the US use of Mafia cohorts in the Allied invasion. Of late, mafiosi turned state witnesses have provided precious evidence about the organisation, though at the terrible price of numerous lives, leading magistrates and lawkeepers in first place. All but invisible to outsiders who are unaffected by events, it is prospering and shows no sign at all of dying out. This is confirmed by recurrent reports in the Sicilian and national daily press and TV of Mafia-related crime and inquiries. Such news should remove any doubts harboured by visitors that it is only the stuff of films nowadays. Background reading is warmly recommended and several suggestions are listed in the Further Reading section.

Some facts and figures help give a fuller picture of Sicily. The largest of the Mediterranean islands, its territory embraces 37 minor islands, some volcanic. A total of 25,708 sq km are occupied by a population of over 5 million, which averages out at 194 inhabitants per square kilometre, or half a hectare per head. The island is 270km in length and 180km in breadth, though described by Arab traveller Ibn Hawqal in the 11th century as ‘seven days long [by walking], four days broad’. It lies a mere 143km north of Tunisia in north Africa, while on the other hand it is divided from the main Italian land mass by the Strait of Messina, 3km across at its narrowest and 20km at its broadest.

An ambitious State project is in the pipeline to bridge the passage. However opposition is widespread as many say the funds could be better used upgrading the island’s rail and road networks, in desperate need of maintenance. Others emphasise the unsuitability of the site, citing the disastrous 1908 earthquake and tidal wave that struck Messina leaving over 60,000 dead and 91% of the city flattened. Moreover this natural channel is run through by treacherous swirling currents and whirlpools, the dread of ancient mariners who feared being shipwrecked and devoured by the ghastly lurking she-monsters Scylla and Charybdis, who put paid to many of Ulysses’ men.

Modern-day victims of shipping disasters of an entirely different kind are the thousands of hopefuls, asylum seekers, who put themselves at the mercy of unscrupulous criminals for the ‘short’ boat trip from the north African coast across to the islands of Lampedusa and Pantelleria, as well as Sicily’s southern coast. When the sea is calm, thousands at a time disembark, whereas on rough days the navy fishes their corpses from the waves, unless they wash up on the beach first.

Generally speaking Sicily’s landscapes are predominantly mountainous. First and foremost is a completely separate elevation, Mount Etna, unrivalled in dominance. Europe’s highest active volcano at 3300m above sea level, this unique attraction has an unmistakable dark cone shape and is recognisable from afar by its trademark plume of smoke, a belching chimney when an eruption is in progress. The main ranges, on the other hand, the Peloritani, Nebrodi and Madonie, which rise to maximum heights just short of the 2000m mark, are generally considered a natural continuation of the Apennine chain that reaches down to the coast in neighbouring Calabria on the toe of Italy. Rugged reliefs cloaked with dense woods, these mountains tend to be sparsely populated and are cut through by picturesque valleys and highlands which double as golden fields of wheat in spring then dust bowls in summer.

The broad rim of extinct volcano Monte Mojo (Walk 3)

In striking contrast the coastal belts feature the dark, glossy greens of citrus orch­ards and vineyards, alternating with chaotic settlements often characterised by an air of abandon. Ancient ruins punctuate rolling hills bright with spring flowers and aromatic herbs. Finally the offshore islands are worlds unto themselves, surrounded by inviting crystal-clear waters, windswept and often cut off from the mainland in winter.

Walking and Maps

Walking for pleasure is still not widely practised in Sicily and guarded curiosity will often greet ramblers, as getting around on foot has long been equated with hardship. Signposting and way­marking are rare luxuries on pathways. As a consequence, commercially produced walking maps are few and far between, with the exception of those covering the popular Aeolian islands in addition to the Etna and Madonie Parks. Details of any useful exemplars or local material are listed in the individual walk headings, while useful terminology can be found in the Glossary (Appendix 1). Each route comes complete with a comprehensive sketch map, for which the legend can be found before the Introduction. The main landmarks shown on each map are also indicated in bold in the walk description.

Individual headings include an overall difficulty rating for the route.

 Grade 1 means an easy stroll, suitable for all.

 Grade 2 is a little strenuous, with reasonable distances and/or climbs and drops involved. A basic level of fitness is required.

 Grade 3 is akin to an alpine trek. It may involve occasional problems with orientation, as well as exposed or particularly arduous stretches. Some experience and extra care is recommended, along with suitable equipment.

Distances are given in both kilometres and miles, together with overall height loss and/or gain (ie how much you descend and/or ascend), but only when this exceeds 200m. Measurements in brackets given during the actual descriptions refer to altitude (metres above sea level).

Total timing for the walk is also given in the heading and does NOT include any stops, so always allow more time when planning your day. Timing given en route is cumulative unless otherwise specified.

Note: when ‘path’ is used it means just that; ‘track’ is used for a wider path, usually vehicle width; and ‘roads’ – surfaced or not – are open to traffic.

For visitors who prefer to walk with other people and an experienced guide, the Italian Alpine Club CAI (a volunteer but well-qualified organisation with a branch in virtually every town in Sicily) arranges group walks most weekends throughout the year. Non-members are welcome on many of the excursions. The Palermo office is Tel 091-329407 or www.clubalpinoitaliano.org. Moreover the Catania branch Tel 095-7153515 or www.caicatania.it per­io­d­ically takes small groups on an interesting four-day Etna trek.

Mention must be made of the Sentiero Italia project, a mammoth 6000km walker’s route traversing the whole of Italy from Sardinia, via Sicily, the Apennines and the Alps, all the way to Trieste. Some work has been carried out on the pathways in Sicily, with waymarking and signposting on the initial 45km in the Palermo area. The question of accommodation is yet to be resolved, but in the meantime sections can be followed on a day basis. Information on this route can be obtained from the Italian Alpine Club.

Parks, Reserves and Protected Areas

With a plethora of diverse pressing problems to deal with on the island, the environmental movement in Sicily did not get off the ground until the 1980s. A landmark demonstration in 1980 to halt the construction of a coastal road between Scopello and San Vito Lo Capo on the northwesternmost cape led to the establishment of the Riserva dello Zingaro and heightened awareness of the issues at stake. A string of noteworthy parks and reserves was set up in the wake of the action thanks to appropriate legislation, though it is proving to be a particularly slow and cumbersome process. The Parco dell’Etna, Sicily’s first regional park, saw the light of day in 1987; the Parco delle Madonie dates back to 1989; the extensive Parco dei Nebrodi was set up in 1993; while the newest, the Parco Fluviale dell’ Alcantara established in 2001, is currently finding its feet while its borders are still being debated. A fifth is rumoured for the Sicani region in the centre-west. More specific information is given in the introductions to each park area. Moreover, www.parks.it is a good source of information.

Exploring the Silvestri craters (Walk 5)

Furthermore, a host of nature reserves (77 in actual fact) often known as riserva naturale orientata, mostly under the auspices of the very capable State Forestry Department of Sicily, the WWF (Global Environment Network) as well as the Italian Alpine Club (CAI), protect some remarkable sites in the provinces of Siracusa, Trapani and Palermo for a start. Generally speaking picking flowers, camping, fishing and dogs are forbidden in protected areas. Marine reserves govern activities such as spear fishing in the Egadi islands. In all some 23% of the whole of Sicily, corresponding to some 6000 sq km, is given over to protected areas.

Groundwork through schools and community-based initiatives is carried out to sensitise local people and prevent them from regarding the protected area solely as an imposition or only in terms of restrictions and prohibitions. Drawing up a workable management plan can take time, and only when it has been implemented can work start on facilities for visitors – funds and staff permitting.

When to Go

Sicily’s climate is typically Mediterranean with hot dry summers and mild rainy winters. It could almost be summed up as having only these two seasons, as the others only appear fleetingly. Fortunately the marvellous range of altitudes and landscapes mean the island can be glorious at any time of year. On the coast temperatures average out at 19°C (13°C inland) and rarely drop below 10°C even in midwinter, except during the once-in-a-blue-moon snowfall. Generally, March through to June is the best time to go walking in Sicily as the countryside exhibits brilliant carpets of green with extraordinarily dense, and unfortunately short-lived, masses of wild flowers.

Rocky steps at Pantalica (Walk 11)

In summer, from June onwards, when parched conditions have set in across the lowlands and the island is roasting with temperatures that soar above 30°C under the effect of the blistering scirocco wind straight from Africa, the mountain ranges come into their own with deliciously cool conditions, as do the breeze-blessed islands. Late July–August is understandably the busiest time for visitors and high-season prices apply.

Strangely, the sea tends to be chilly for swimming until well into the summer but luckily retains its warmth through to the autumn months, when visibility is usually at its prime throughout Sicily. Daylight Saving Time in Italy lasts from the beginning of April to the end of October.

As already mentioned, late autumn–winter is the season when Sicily receives its lion’s share of rain, usually desperately needed by the farmers after the near drought conditions of a protracted summer. This is the time of year when sudden downpours cause stony, arid river beds to swell and become fiumare (the term for a seasonal watercourse), and the land starts soaking up moisture in preparation for the imminent explosion of green.

Walkers on the old railway track at Pantalica (Walk 12)

What to Take

In terms of footwear, as the majority of these Sicilian routes follow decent country paths, in most cases nothing more than a good pair of gym shoes is needed. Sandals (with a good grip) are suitable in several cases. However, the exceptions are the volcano routes, notably on Etna and the island of Stromboli, which demand walking boots with thick soles, as anything light will be ripped to shreds by the solidified lava. Ankle support, moreover, is a requisite for the mountainous terrain encountered, for instance, in the Madonie and on the island of Marettimo.

The season and areas visited will dictate specific clothing needs. Loose-fitting cotton garments over a layered base is a good rule, though a pullover or fleece will be appreciated for evenings in the mountain areas. Weatherproof gear is indispensable all year round for the volcano walks as well as the high-altitude routes in the Madonie range. Coastal paths, on the other hand, often call for a windproof jacket outside of summer, while inland routes may require long trousers for the inevitable overgrown thorny stretches. While shorts (for both sexes) are acceptable beachwear in Sicily they are not worn in the countryside, and may cause embarrassment or disapproval in small towns. Discretion is recommended.

It goes without saying that the list of essentials includes a water bottle, sunglasses, a hat (shade is a rare commodity in Sicily) and high-factor protective sun cream, which can double as a remover for the treacherous blobs of tar that occasionally stain the shoreline. Swimming and snorkelling equipment (goggles at least) are optional but warmly recommended, while an altimeter and compass come in handy where waymarking and useful landmarks are lacking. Bird enthusiasts will appreciate a pair of binoculars. A basic first-aid kit with plasters and insect repellent is suggested, as is a torch or headlamp for the cave in Walk 9 and the tunnels in Walk 12.

EMERGENCIES

The following services may be of help should problems arise. Remember that calls made from a public phone require a coin or prepaid phone card to be inserted, though no charge is made for the short numbers or those starting 800, which are toll free.

 Polizia (police) Tel 113

 For health-related emergencies, including ambulance service (ambulanza) and mountain rescue Tel 118.

 CAI Soccorso Alpino, the mountain and speleological rescue service run by qualified volunteers from the Italian Alpine Club, can be contacted on Tel 095-914141 or 095-643430 for the Catania area, and on cell Tel 339-3533513 for the Palermo region. The service is available to everyone, however those other than members of CAI and affiliated associations covered by insurance will be billed.

 The high risk of fire in the long, dry summer months means that open fires of any nature are totally banned throughout Sicily’s park areas, often on a permanent basis. Forest and bush fires should be reported to the Vigili del Fuoco (fire brigade) on Tel 115 or to the Corpo Forestale dello Stato (State Forestry Department) on Tel 1515.

 ‘Aiuto!’ is ‘Help!’ in Italian, and ‘Pericolo!’ means ‘Danger!’

Reaching Sicily

By plane

Sicily is served by both low-cost and regular airlines from overseas, along with the odd charter flight in summer. Alternatively travellers can fly in to other main Italian destinations such as Rome and reach Sicily by a connecting domestic flight. The island’s two useful airports are listed below with their websites, which give the companies that use them.

Palermo’s Falcone-Borsellino airport at Punta Raisi (www.gesap.it) takes flights operated by Ryan Air (www.ryanair.com) from the UK. A 40min trip by train will see passengers in the city centre, otherwise it’s 50min by bus. Several long-distance coach lines, such as those going to Trapani and Agrigento, also stop at the airport.

Catania’s Fontanarossa airport (www.aeroporto.catania.it) takes British Airways’ flights (www.britishairways.com) and Air Malta (www.airmalta.com). Located a mere 6km to the city’s south, it has frequent shuttle buses to and from the centre and the main railway station. Coaches to more distant destinations (eg Siracusa) also call in.

By ferry

Sicily is easily reached from mainland Italy by train or car; the journey entails crossing the legendary Strait of Messina on the non-stop ferries from Villa San Giovanni to Messina. Long-distance trains from central and northern Italy use this route, and the carriages are shunted into the ship’s hold for the crossing. Drivers, on the other hand, can make their way to the well-signed port area for the car ferries.

Finally, Palermo is linked by high-speed and normal passenger ferries at various times of year with Naples, Cagliari, Civitavecchia (near Rome), Livorno and Genoa. Milazzo has year-round links to Naples, while Trapani has ferries to Cagliari and Tunisia, and Catania is accessible from both Malta and Ravenna by sea.

Petralia Sottana (Le Madonie area)

Travelling Around Sicily

An extensive network of public transport serves even the most remote angles of the island, and visitors are encouraged to make use of it. Though this may limit flexibility and be more time-consuming, it provides ideal opportunities to meet local people and, of great relevance, means one less polluting vehicle on the roads. Details of relevant public transport are provided in the ‘Access’ paragraph of each itinerary, and contact information for the companies is listed below.

By rail

Enthusiasts with time to spare will have a field day on the train lines, many single track, that snake their tortuous and scenic way through the marvellously varied country landscapes of Sicily. The nation-wide phone number for State Railways (Trenitalia) timetable information and reservations is Tel 892021, otherwise the web site is www.trenitalia.com.

In addition, a privately run ‘toy’ train circles Mount Etna: the Circumetnea starts out from Catania and climbs gradually northwest, reaching almost 1000m above sea level. It skirts the volcano base, terminating at Giarre-Riposto on the Ionian coast once more, from where it is a short journey by State Rail south back to Catania. Service is suspended on Sundays and holidays. For timetable information Tel 095-541250/1 or www.circumetnea.it.

By bus

Veritable fleets of local buses and long-distance coaches operate across Sicily. Timetables are usually posted at the main stops, while tobacconists and cafés in small towns often act as ticket offices. Try to be at the bus stop early as drivers often depart ahead of schedule!

By ferry

Sicily’s island groups, including the Egadi and Aeolians dealt with in this guide, have permanent ferry and hydrofoil links, as outlined in the relevant sections.

Cefalù and its headland (Walk 33)

BUS CONTACT DETAILS

 AMAT www.amat.pa.it Palermo Tel 091-6902690.

 AST www.aziendasicilianatrasporti.it Catania Tel 840-000323, Marsala Tel 840-000323, Palermo Tel 091-6800030, Siracusa Tel 0931-462711 and Trapani Tel 0923-21021.

 Caruso, Noto Tel 0931-894528.

 Citis, Salina Tel 090-9844150.

 Fratelli La Spisa, Cefalù Tel 0921-424301.

 Interbus www.interbus.it Taormina Tel 0942-625301, Messina Tel 090-661714, Siracusa Tel 0931-66710

 ISEA, Misterbianco (Catania) www.iseaviaggi.it Tel 095-464101.

 Lumia, Agrigento Tel 0922-20414.

 Prestia & Comandè www.prestiaecomande.it Palermo Tel 091-586351.

 Russo, Castellamare del Golfo Tel 0924-31364.

 SAIS www.saisautolinee.it Catania Tel 095-536168, Palermo Tel 091-6166028.

 Salemi, Marsala www.autoservizisalemi.it Tel 0923-981120.

 Sberna, S. Agata Militello Tel 0941-701029.

 Urso, Lipari www.ursobus.com Tel 090-9811026.

 Zappala & Torrisi www.zappala-torrisi.it CataniaTel 095-7647139.

By car

Car rental firms abound at the major airports and cities and are best booked from abroad, often as fly-drive package deals. One good road map recommended for drivers is the Touring Club Italiano (TCI) 1:200,000 ‘Sicilia’.

The following terminology can be of help in understanding timetables:

Cambio a …/coincidenza	change at …/connection
Estivo/invernale	summer/winter
Feriale	working days (ie Monday to Saturday)
Festivo	holidays (ie Sundays and public holidays)
Giornaliero	daily
Lunedì a venerdì/sabato	Monday to Friday/Saturday
Sciopero	strike
Scolastico	during school term

Sicily has a limited and unfinished autostrada (motorway) network, free of charge on many stretches. Off the motorways is a reasonable network of state roads, referred to on maps and signposting as strada statale (or SS with an identifying number), not to mention the smaller roads, strada provinciale(SP plus a number), for which the provinces are responsible. The Italian Automobile Club (ACI) breakdown service is (116.

Avoid driving through major cities such as Catania and Palermo, if possible, as traffic congestion is rife and parking an adventure to say the least. For towns in general it is advisable to park outside the old walled perimeter and venture in on foot.

Local taxis are worth using to reach out-of-the-way archaeological sites or walks. If none are around, a good bet is to ask at the main village café. People tend to be extremely helpful and go out of their way to help visitors.

Accommodation

All the walk descriptions come complete with listings for accommodation. These range from the modest hotel or albergo, to a room in a private home (known variously as camera privata, affittacamera or bed & breakfast), simple apartment (apartamento), and a hostel (ostello) or two. Otherwise there are the flourishing agriturismo farm establishments, many of which are restored historic properties.

The odd mountain hut (rifugio abbreviated to Rif.) has also been included where relevant. Unlike the spartan establishments in the Alps, these are hybrids – all can be reached by road and are more like country hotels. Sheets are provided as is a private bathroom in many cases, and guests need take only a towel. Charges are generally moderate and home-style meals are available. Those run by the CAI (Club Alpino Italiano) offer discounted rates for members of affiliated organisations. A separate organisation, the CAS (Club Alpino Siciliano), has a couple of well-run manned refuges in addition to unmanned chalets in wonderful positions, though the latter are for the exclusive use of members.

Unless specifically mentioned, all establishments are open all year round. Mezza pensione (half board) may be on offer, and this combination of lodging with breakfast plus dinner (usually excluding drinks) can be advantageous.

Rifugio at Piano Battaglia

The main tourist offices in Sicily supply excellent booklets, updated yearly, listing all the accommodation (camping grounds included), with prices and opening periods, for the relevant province. It’s advisable to stock up with these handy booklets in the towns as little information is available in the hinterland. Prices are generally lowered at off-peak times and may be negotiable.

Though advance reservation is only really necessary in high season (essentially Easter and late July–August), it’s a good idea to call ahead to small hotels or private rooms to give them advance warning of your arrival. English is not widely spoken outside the main tourist cities or resorts, making a sprinkling of Italian highly desirable.

Telephones

When phoning in Italy remember to use the full area code including the zero, even for local calls. Exceptions are mobiles (cellulare), that commence with ‘3’, and toll-free numbers that begin with ‘800’ or ‘840’. Calls to Italy from overseas must likewise include the zero of the area code.

Mobile phones can be extremely useful when travelling around the island, for booking accommodation for instance, however coverage is by no means comprehensive.

Note: many toll-free numbers for information services cannot be called from a mobile.

Public phones are generally easy to find in small towns and villages, either in the main piazza or the at the bar/coffee shop. Coins are rarely accepted these days it’s a good idea to purchase a pre-paid phone card, carta telefonica, available from tobacconists, cafés and paper shops. Note:the corner with the dotted line needs to be removed before the card can be used.

Food and Drink

One legacy of Sicily’s colourful history is the unique combination of ingredients, spices and herbs that have been grafted onto the simple fare of the peasant people. The Arabs are credited with the majority of imports, from couscous to pasta, and from fish preservation techniques to sorbets and confectionery. The fertile land and hard-working inhabitants mean a vast range of fruit and vegetables is grown on Sicily, with a large measure of success.

All attempts to speak Italian will endear you to the locals. Say ‘Pronto’ to start a phone call, then try with these:

Buon giorno (Buona sera). Cerco una camera matrimoniale (singola)con (senza) bagno per una notte (due notti) da oggi (domani).

Good morning (evening). I’m looking for a double (single) room with (without) bathroom for one night (two nights) as from today (tomorrow).

Avete un lettino per un bambino?

Do you have a small bed for a child?

Avete qualcosa di più grande (economico)?

Do you have anything larger (cheaper)?

To familiarise themselves with the raw materials, visitors can do no better than wander around a fresh-produce market. The strictly regional nature of Sicilian food, and its relative lack of sophistication compared to what is usually expected of Italian cuisine, means delicious surprises can be expected by adventurous eaters.

The snack front is dominated by the arancino, a luscious ball of moist rice around an inner core of meat and tomato sauce (ragù), crumbed, fried and eaten warm. Those served on board the ferries that cross the Strait of Messina are legendary! Another snack found prevalently around Palermo is panelle, squares of chick pea pastry, battered and fried and served on its own or as a roll filling, preferably accompanied by fried eggplant. Schiacciata and focaccia, types of pizza-like bread, are good lunch fare and found in all bakeries. A modest restaurant or trattoria may not always have a menu, however by asking ‘Che cosa avete oggi?’ (What’s on today?) or ‘Quale sono le vostre specialità?’ (What are your specialities?) something unfailingly interesting is guaranteed.

Antipasti (starters) are usually in a mouth-watering display to be served at room temperature, and could easily constitute a meal on their own. You may find sarde alla beccaficco, fresh sardines stuffed with capers and breadcrumbs and lightly fried (the name alludes to the serving manner, as the fish is arranged to resemble a prized game bird, the garden warbler). The eggplant (melanzana) is omnipresent, mostly the light mauve bulbous type. Lightly salted and left so the bitter juices drain away, it has a deep, rich taste enhanced by light frying, before serving with a splash of tomato purée and oregano. In combination with celery and capers it also features in the rich caponata stew. Alla parmigianasees it layered with tomato and melted parmesan cheese. Mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes and an infinity of olives are usually on offer as well.

Primo piatto or first courseinevitably means pasta, thought to have been invented in Sicily, if not brought in by the Arabs. In any case, a 12th-century account of the island by the geographer al-Idrisi made mention of busy pasta factories near Palermo where vermicelli and macaroni were produced for exportation to both Muslim provinces and Christian countries. Noteworthy present-day dishes include pasta alla Norma (a reference to the opera by Vincenzo Bellini, who hailed from Catania), the sauce a delicious combination of stewed eggplant and tomato. In the Trapani area you’ll come across pasta with pesto trapanese, a fragrant cold sauce of fresh tomatoes with crushed garlic, almonds, parmesan cheese and basil, or pasta con le sarde, topped with fresh sardines combined with tangy wild fennel and pine nuts, not to mention cuscus, the dish of north African origin of steamed semolina served with a spicy fish-based sauce. In contrast the Nebrodi mountain villages specialise in fresh maccheroni, long hollow tubes smothered in a rich meat sauce (sugo), while the Monti Iblei district offers home-made ravioli di ricotta flavoured with a pungent tomato and pork sauce and cavatelle, generous fresh pasta coils.

The Pizzo Carbonara peak (Walk 35)

A main course (secondo piatto) in the hills around Siracusa will include the excellent aromatic braised rabbit, alias coniglio alla stimpirata, alongside myriad choice grilled meats flavoured with oregano, garlic and lemon.

Menus with seafood (pesce or frutti di mare) will feature pesce spada (swordfish) prepared al cartoccio, ‘wrapped’ to guarantee its moistness while baked, otherwise it is popular grilled on skewers (spiedini). Fortunately tonno (tuna) is easily found in summer: grilled, baked, sautéed or stewed in onions and vinegar, it is unfailingly luscious. The Sicilians leave the flesh under running cold water until the blood has completely drained away, making for a much lighter meal in both the colour and digestive sense. Calamari or similar totani ripieni (stuffed) can be a treat, likewise fresh alici or masculini (anchovies), while any recently caught fish is worth sampling if delicately poached in acqua di mare, seawater. Delectable ricci di mare or sea urchins, sliced open to show off their bright orange and crimson flesh, are consumed raw with abundant lemon juice or tossed with pasta and garlic.

Sicily is not a great cheese producer, though fresh ricotta is hard to beat. Usually made from sheep’s or goat’s milk, it comes in a delectable creamy fresh form as well as smoked or dried for grating over pasta dishes. Seasoned, if somewhat bland, cheeses worth trying are caciocavallo and canestrato – known as tuma when fresh, then primu sali when salted.

Notables in the vast vegetable field are pomodori (tomatoes), which ripened under the African-like sun can be memorable, as well as carciofi (artichokes) and broccoli tossed over pasta. Contorno means a vegetable side dish.

Fruit is dominated by citrus, namely arancie (oranges), arancie sanguigne(blood oranges), limoni (lemons) and the monstrous knobbly fruit known as cedri (citrons), similar to a lemon and excellent for candying and confectionery.

Last but by no means least are the dolci, pastries, ice creams and sweets in general. This class, an art form, encompasses generous mouth-watering cakes made of melt-in-the-mouth pasta di mandorla, a lighter version of marzipan, as well as the famous cannoli, tubes of fried flaky pastry stuffed with a rich mixture of ricotta cheese and candied fruits, virtually a meal in itself. In a similar vein is cassata, often an ice cream concoction, then there’s the superb torrone, alias nougat, which comes in mind-boggling variations based on honey, almond and pistachio. Gelato (ices) assumes a new meaning and dimension in Sicily. The creamy types can be unforgettable and the lighter fruit flavours are usually sorbetto, said to have been invented by the Arabs who used snow from Etna combined with the juice of locally grown citrus fruit.

The granita on the other hand is a marvellous thirst-quenching invention for the hot summertime – a finely shaved ice mixture flavoured with sweetened lemon juice (al limone), pureed strawberries (alla fragola) or whatever takes the maker’s fancy, even al caffè, coffee, popular breakfast fare. Rumour has it that al gelso, or mulberry, is the best and most loved of all. Thick cream is an optional but favourite topping. One special icy treat prepared in Palermo for Saint Rosalia’s feast day (September 4th) is gelo al mellone, made with watermelon and scented with jasmine flowers. Lastly, try latte di mandorla, a sweet almond-based drink.

Climate and history have produced an excellent and currently expanding range of wines. One widely distributed substantial red is Corvo, Duca di Salaparuta, though connoisseurs will appreciate superior full-bodied wines such as Cerasuolo di Vittoria (from the Ragusa province), as well as several recommended reds from the Cefalù hinterland – namely the Passomaggio and Cabernet Sauvignon from Castelbuono. Top grade Shiraz has also recently emerged. Lighter vintages are the red from the flanks of Etna (with a guaranteed DOC rating, also available in white and rosé) or the house red from San Cipirello in the Palermo hinterland, if not special whites such as those from the Castiglione area.

Notable white wines are the Bianco d’Alcamo (Trapani province), Donnafugata (whose place name means ‘spring of health’) and Glicine, unfailingly crisp and hard to beat served well chilled in summer.

Dessert and after-dinner wines are many and varied. Marsala hardly needs an introduction, thanks to its 18th-century ‘discovery’ by English trader John Woodhouse, then there is zibibbo, moscato (Noto district), and malvasia from the Aeolian islands.

Beer, refreshing in the heat, is widely consumed.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Masses of helpful information and useful links can be found on the Italian National Tourist Authority web site www.enit.it. The island’s main tourist offices are listed here, while other relevant offices can be found under individual walks.

Catania: Via Etnea 63 Tel 095-311768 turismo.provincia.ct.it

Cefalù: Corso Ruggiero 77 Tel 0921-421050

Messina: Piazza Cairoli 45 Tel 090-2935292 www.azienturismomessina.it

Palermo: Piazza Castelnuovo 34 Tel 091-583847 or 091-6058351 www.palermotourism.com

Siracusa: Via S. Sebastiano 43 Tel 0931-67710 www.apt-siracusa.it

Trapani: Piazza Saturno Tel 0923 29000 www.comune.trapani.it

Flowers and Trees

Visitors in spring will be overwhelmed by the multi-coloured masses of wild flowers in Sicily. A huge variety of native Mediterranean and introduced plants flourish on terrain that can be both harsh and extraordinarily lush. The range embraces delicate insect orchids, the unusual Orchis italica whose straggly pink petals resemble outstretched men, broom shrubs with explosive clusters of golden blooms, bright wild irises, rare white peonies, resplendent sun or rock roses (Cistus) and spiky pink-bloomed caper plants straggling over old masonry, not to mention a generous array of aromatic herbs, the likes of thyme, rosemary, sage, marjoram, oregano (‘splendour of the mountain’ in Greek) and pungent seaside wild fennel – a dream for any cook. In spring hillside fields are carpeted with carmine velvet crops of Hedysarum, like sainfoin, grown for forage.

Memorable surprises also come in the form of minuscule alpine plants that bloom on the blackened lava terrain of Etna up to a record 3050m above sea level, a mere incandescent stone’s throw from the very active central craters! The vast slopes of the volcano, in fact, host an astonishing variety of unique flowering plants (Astragalus or milk-vetch) and trees (the pale Scandinavian-like birches) endemic to the mountain, along with dense forests of chestnut and majestic Corsican pines.

In all a mere 4% of Sicily’s territory is estimated to be occupied by forests. Medium-altitude mountainous zones mean vast woods of downy and evergreen holm oak and their affiliates, together with areas of the silvery-barked Aleppo pine with long, bright green needles – as it is drought resistant, it is often used for reforestation, particularly on rocky terrain close to the coast. A special mention is due the curious manna ash, a flowering tree long cultivated in both Sicily and Calabria for its sugary sap containing mannitol, a white alcohol once used for medicinal purposes (a mild laxative) or in dietetic sweets, now all but substituted by synthetic substances. Long slashes were made in the bark of tree in August and the manna (not to be confused with the biblical substance, a lichen in all probability) was scraped off then dried as cannoli tubes. The Madonie and the Zingaro Reserve are good places to see old trees still marked with the cuts. Abandoned carob trees are also common, the seed pods fed to livestock or cooked up for confectionery. A further example of man’s inventiveness can be seen in the exploitation of a mountain variety of the ubiquitous euphorbia, or spurge, whose acrid milky juice, an irritant, was employed to stun river eels.

Orchis italica is a rare delight

Back in the lowlands, the unusual dwarf fan palm, the sole native palm in Europe, is widespread in Sicily, and its dried fronds are still woven into robust baskets, as in the past. A stockier, orange-tinted ornamental palm which harks from the Canary Isles can be found in many a public garden. The spiky fleshy leaves of the monstrous agave, or century plant, punctuate the Sicilian landscape nowadays, far from its native Mexico. Its impressive candelabra-like flowers, marking the end of the plant’s life, appear on stems reminiscent of gigantic asparagus, straight out of a science fiction film. The very first agave in Italy was planted in the botanical gardens of Padua in 1561.

Pretty rock roses

Zàgara is the Arabic/Sicilian name for the heady scent of oranges and lemons in blossom, a familiar delight to springtime travellers. The trees were imported from Asia long ago and now form the backbone of the agricultural world in Sicily. Loquat trees laden with their refreshing orange globe fruit, a 19th-century arrival from Japan, are a common sight alongside the citrus orchards. Another staple, the olive, native oleasters were improved by grafting cuttings from related cultivated types which came with early Greek settlers.

Another colourful immigrant, bougainvillea, from Brazil (introduced to Europe in 1829), brightens many a garden wall and terrace, its papery flowers ranging from burgundy-purplish through to orange. One unmistakable landmark plant that spreads like wildfire through abandoned fields, forming impenetrable thorny barriers, is a cactus – the prickly pear, also known under the colourful if misleading name of Barbary fig. Its introduction to Italy from South America is attributed to none other than Christopher Columbus. From spring through to summer it sports pretty, bright yellow, paperish flowers amidst its long, bristling spines, as well as reddish-purple egg-shaped fruit, edible if not particularly tasty once all the insidious prickles have been carefully extracted.

Visitors from the Antipodes will be surprised at the sight of numerous eucalypts, originally introduced to the Mediterranean over past centuries to help drain swampy areas, and which have since themselves become a paradoxical drain on the precious water resources in many cases.

Many of the species referred to above can be grouped under the vast class of Mediterranean maquis, which still accounts for a considerable range of altitudes on Sicily. Hardy, low, evergreen tree and impenetrable shrub cover combined with aromatic plants are apparently resistant to the scorching near-drought conditions of a typical Sicilian summer. However they succumb to fire, as oily substances ignite in a flash, but growth can be restored in a matter of months.

Seashore walks are always rich in plant life, with interesting examples such as the stunning yellow horned poppy, lilac sea rocket, purple-tinged sea holly and pungent artemisia. The rather nondescript glasswort, or Salicornia, found on salt-ridden marshes and dunes, has jointed, bright green fleshy stalks which supply potash-rich ashes, long used in glass-making throughout the Mediterranean. Underwater plants include an unusual flowering seaweed which forms meadows and comes under the evocative appellation Posidonia oceanica (‘king of the sea’). Its fronds form floating cushions, though is more commonly seen in dried form, as the old leaves are pulverised then rolled into curious pebble-shaped balls by wave action, to be washed up on the beaches especially along the southern coast. Vast banks of seaweed strands deposited on the sand can even provide a habitat suitable for the endemic marigold.

Prickly pear blooms

While spring is undeniably the best time to go walking in terms of the flowers, autumn has its own specialities, such as unusual concentrations of cyclamens in the woods and the striking purple flowers of the poisonous mandrake. Also known as the love apple for its use in potions, not to mention as a painkiller in medieval times, it is similar to the gentian, though is enclosed by spreading dock-like leaves.

Cyclamens are common in upland woods

Wildlife

Crocodiles from the Nile, believed to have been imported by Arab conquerors during the 10th century, once prospered in Sicilian waters. Reports as late as the 16th century described the fearful creatures in lakes and rivers, not to mention Siracusa’s famed fountain Fonte del Ciane, where they lurked amongst the giant papyrus. On the other hand, fossil evidence from the Nebrodi mountain range clearly speaks of elephants, rhinoceros and hippopotamus, whereas prehistoric graffiti and cave paintings on the island of Levanzo depict donkeys and bison, along with tunny fish and dolphins. Present-day species are those that managed to live through the ravages of World War Two and extensive deforestation, after centuries of relatively peaceful cohabitation with agricultural man. Survivors range from shy deer and foxes to the wild boar and elusive porcupine (introduced by the ancient Romans for its delectable flesh), and even noisy walkers can count on seeing hordes of wild rabbits and the occasional larger creature such as mouflon. A Mediterranean native, this wild sheep frequents rugged scrub mountain flanks and can be distinguished by its showy curved horns.

A fair range of snakes enjoy this sun-blessed island, and one of the longest and most commonly encountered is a swift and irritable black colubrid, which is harmless. The viper or adder (vipera in Italian), a venomous snake with diamond/zigzag markings on its light brown-grey back, is to be taken seriously. Bare feet and flimsy sandals are best avoided, as is sitting on sun-baked rocks without giving prior occupants time to slither away.

The delightful transparent, creamy-coloured Sicilian gecko abounds, distinct from the more usual Mediterranean type. This miniature dragon darts about striking daring poses on walls inside and out in search of insects.

Despite the over-fished state of the Mediterranean, majestic swordfish and silvery tuna of up to 200 kilos are a common sight in the markets, especially towards summertime. The former are pursued predominantly around Messina from curious boats (feluca) whose masts are fitted with slender lookout towers some 22m high. A similar extension of the prow serves the harpooner. Tuna, on the other hand, are subjected to a complex group hunt and meet their end according to age-old traditions that see them first captured in a labyrinth of nets and chambers, as per the mattanza still practised in the Egadi islands.

The picture on the bird front is a little more cheerful. Pink flamingos have returned to coastal bird sanctuaries along with an impressive number of waterfowl such as herons, egrets and the elegant black-winged stilt (the cavaliere d’Italia), easily recognised by its long, spindly and unsteady crimson legs, almost comical as it fishes in shallow water. Dominant birds in the countryside tend to be flashy magpies and squawking jackdaws, though there are also melodious skylarks and nightingales, and some impressive birds of prey. In spite of the annual slaughter many are subjected to on their return south across the Strait of Messina, the list includes buzzards and kestrels, the peregrine falcon, Bonelli’s eagle and elegant Eleonora’s falcons, most of which are to be considered endangered. The latter are renowned for their evening group hunting forays when they prey on smaller, weary species. The unusual Egyptian white vulture, or pharaoh’s chicken, reportedly survives in the mountains, as do rare pairs of golden eagles.

A frequenter of stony ground and clearings, the Sicilian rock partridge is not an unusual sight scurrying along a track trailing its young, while memorable is the eye-catching hoopoe running and bobbing its way along pathways. This unusual and showy bird is identifiable by its trademark crest of black-tipped, chestnut-brown feathers and black and white striped wings. A summer migrant in northern Europe, it often winters over in Sicily in preference to Africa.

Sunset over the Sciara del Fuoco (Walk 46)