Читать книгу Walking in Tuscany - Gillian Price - Страница 12
Оглавление1 THE ENVIRONS OF FLORENCE
Vineyards line the way back towards Artimino, visible in the distance (Walk 2)
The hills around the bustling Tuscan capital offer a wealth of walking, worlds away from the chaos of the traffic-choked city. Fiesole dominates Florence from its commanding position high over the Arno and Mugnone rivers. It is a cool peaceful spot surrounded by olive groves. The Etruscans put it on the map in the 7th century BC and it came under Roman rule four centuries later. Its heyday was undeniably the Renaissance, as borne out by elegant palaces, villas and gardens.
A curiosity: during that period, a blue-grey sandstone known as pietra serena was extracted from the quarries on adjacent Monte Ceceri; it has been estimated that half the mountain was incorporated into Florentine monuments! Fiesole began to return to fashion once again in the late 1700s, when wealthy expats moved in. Nowadays, Monte Ceceri is a pleasant wooded park; it is visited in Walk 1, which traverses the gentle hills to Settignano.
Close by stands the mock medieval castle of Vincigliata, faithfully reconstructed in the mid 1800s on 11th-century ruins by eccentric English gentleman Mr Temple Leader. Illustrious guests included Queen Victoria and Henry James, who wrote: ‘The massive pastiche of Vincigliata has no superficial use, but, even if it were less complete, less successful, less brilliant, I should feel a reflective kindness for it.’
Stretching out to the north-west of Florence and dominating Valdarno is the low line of hills of the Montalbano ridge (nothing to do with the lovable anti-Mafia Sicilian detective). Clothed in olive groves, vineyards and woodland, Montalbano boasts some colourful history. Standout characters are Renaissance genius Leonardo da Vinci, who was born on its southern reaches, and the Florentine Medici clan, who had classical villas constructed in the east above Prato. Tiny walled Artimino stands on a hilltop overlooking a wide bend in the River Arno. An elevated ridge links the village with the splendid Villa Ferdinanda, a World Heritage Site. Completed in 1594 as a country residence for Grand Duke Ferdinand I, it was dubbed the cento camini (hundred chimneys), although it has but 66 in actual fact. The villa occupies the site of an Etruscan settlement, its cemetery/necropolis on the hillside below. Walk 2 is a splendid route linking all the sites.
A short crow’s flight west is charming low-profile Vinci, whose claim to fame is as the birthplace of Leonardo da Vinci. The local Museo Leonardiano has fascinating working models of his inventions. Starting in the village, Walk 3 drops in at the revered stone house where the great man saw the light of day, before climbing towards the Montalbano ridge. For more walks here, go to www.montalbano.toscana.it.
Bases
If you don’t mind the chaos of Florence, it can make a decent base, with excellent bus and train networks to the surrounding area. However, Fiesole is much quieter, with a good choice of accommodation, and is reachable by bus. Artimino has buses from Prato, and the railway, but limited accommodation. Vinci has a couple of hotels, a good bus service to Empoli, and trains.
WALK 1
Fiesole to Settignano
| Start | Fiesole |
| Finish | Settignano |
| Distance | 7.6km |
| Ascent | 180m |
| Descent | 300m |
| Grade | 1–2 |
| Walking time | 2hr 15min |
| Map | Kompass n.2439 Toscana Nord 1:50,000 map 2 |
| Access | ATAF n.7 bus from Florence (near Piazza San Marco) goes up to Fiesole, terminating in the main square, Piazza Mino da Fiesole. At the walk’s end, ATAF n.10 from Settignano runs down to Piazza San Marco. |
After savouring the wealth of monuments in this delightful hill town, a wander through the surrounding countryside is in order. History and nature alternate on this easy, clearly marked itinerary through woods, olive groves and fields.
There is a gentle climb via old quarries to scenic Monte Ceceri, well known to the great Leonardo da Vinci for his flying machine experiments in 1506. Apparently he would launch his apprentices from the top! Then it’s mostly descent through farmland and woods, passing close to Vincigliata Castle before terminating in the quiet village of Settignano. Red-and-white marked path n.1 is followed the whole way. There are no refreshments en route, but plenty at the start and finish.
Start out in Piazza Mino da Fiesole (294m), named after the 15th-century sculptor. Up in the topmost southern corner, the furthest away from the cathedral, take Via Giuseppe Verdi (passeggiata panoramica sign and red-and-white waymarking n.1). The narrow road passes stately houses and gardens, and not far uphill it forks L to become Via di Montececeri at a house where Frank Lloyd Wright stayed in 1910. A superbly panoramic stretch leads around E to a playground where Via degli Scalpellini (the stonecutter’s road) takes over. This soon becomes a gravelly track, heading S between high walls shaded by tall pines and oak trees. Past a map board for Parco di Montececeri, continue uphill and take the signed fork R for Cava Braschi.
This brief but worthwhile detour leads down to Cava Braschi, a fascinating walk-in quarry with huge columns. Thick overlying layers of marly terrain had to be cut through in order to reach the blue-grey sandstone known as pietra serena.
A worthwhile detour to the Cava Braschi quarry
After visiting the quarry, return to the fork and turn R, passing a cavity where pietra morta (a type of sandstone used for fireplaces) was once extracted. Ignore the marked sharp fork L (a shortcut to Monte Ceceri) and proceed to the flat area alongside Cava Sarti, dotted with old stone huts for storing masons’ tools. Then a short climb leads up to Piazzale Leonardo, a cypress-bordered panoramic platform on Monte Ceceri (414m, 45min), where a stone marker commemorates da Vinci and his early experiments.
Ignore path n.7 (for Maiano) and stick with n.1 (NE). The wide track dates back to 1932–33, part of the Italian army’s plan for anti-aircraft guns on Monte Ceceri. It emerges from the lovely woods and parkland at the olive groves and houses of Prato ai Pini (371m). Past Villa Rigoli and a chapel, turn R down the road to an intersection, and go R again. Not far along, soon after Hotel Villa dei Bosconi, red-and-white markings point you R on narrow Via Baccano, which quickly becomes a lane. At a crumbling shrine, you’re pointed sharp L (SE) into an olive grove, following waymarks on trees. After crossing a stream in a thicket of reeds, continue up to a fence where you turn R through woodland up to tarmac at a chapel. Turn R with care along the edge of the narrow road beneath Castel di Poggio and its noisy jackdaws. About 0.5km on, at a fork, turn R to where markings for n.1 immediately point you L onto a path. This leads S in descent through woods and shrubland frequented by roe deer and boar. All of a sudden you reach the edge of an olive grove with a lovely view west to the curious castle of Vincigliata backed by Monte Ceceri, not to mention the sprawl of Florence.
Down at a house on Poggio al Vento don’t miss the sharp L turn (before the building and a lane) for the steepish descent to Settignano. Keep straight ahead along Via Desiderio da Settignano past the cemetery, then further on turn sharp R at a wine bar/restaurant along Via San Romano. This quickly leads to the small square of Settignano (178m, 1hr 30min), where there’s an inviting outdoor café near the bus stop.
WALK 2
Around Artimino
| Start/Finish | Artimino |
| Distance | 7km |
| Ascent/Descent | 200m |
| Grade | 1–2 |
| Walking time | 2hr 15min |
| Map | Tamari Edizioni Il Montalbano a piedi e in bicicletta 1:20,000; or Kompass n.2439 Toscana Nord 1:50,000 map 2 |
| Access | CAP bus from Prato railway station. |
High above the River Arno in beautiful hill country clad with olive trees and grapevines, flowering Mediterranean shrubs and woodland, this lovely route follows clear lanes and paths visiting a peaceful walled village, a Medici villa and modest Etruscan necropolis. Although the latter dates back to the 7th century BC, it was not discovered until the 1990s. The tomb artefacts are on display at the Artimino Archaeological Museum (www.parcoarcheologicocarmignano.it), which can also arrange for visits to the villa. Refreshments are available in Artimino and Poggio alla Malva.
Villa Ferdinanda with its host of chimneys
Leave Artimino (257m) from Porta Turrita, an elegant gateway-cum-clock tower, and walk due E on Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII, lined with holm oaks and olive trees. With views to the River Arno, Prato and the Apennines, this leads towards Villa Ferdinanda. As you reach the entrance to the villa, by all means detour briefly L into the grounds of Hotel Paggeria to see the remains of the ancient Etruscan settlement.
From the entrance to Villa Ferdinanda, take minor road Via del Palazzone (signposted for Poggio alla Malva), skirting below the villa. Not far downhill, after the tennis courts, ignore Via Querceto (you need this on the return stretch) and branch L at a sign for the Necropoli Prato Rosello and red-and-white waymarking. You follow a stony lane leading SE past rock roses, tree heather and myrtle shrubs to an open outcrop. Ignore the fork R for Poggio alla Malva and keep straight ahead in descent, accompanied by marvellous views stretching for miles around over the beautiful hills. Stick with the waymarks at forks and you’ll reach an information board at Necropoli Prato Rosello (30min). Here, paths lead off through woodland in different directions to the tumuli tombs. After a wander around, return to the information board.
The walk begins and concludes at Artimino’s Porta Turrita
From the information board, take the first path R (E) in gentle descent past a shed. Marked red-and-white n.300, the way is a veritable corridor of tree heather, broom and lavender. Down at a minor road (98m), turn R (SW) along the tarmac to a cenotaph and park, which doubles as a delightful lookout over the River Arno. Continue into the village of Poggio alla Malva (90m) and Piazza Ario Dante Naldi. After a short uphill stretch past a madonna statue, turn L on narrow Via Pineta, flanking the church and bell tower. A short stretch S past fields leads to a hamlet and the Barco Reale gateway (40min).
Standing near the base of a knoll clothed in pine woods, the Barco Reale gateway marks the entrance to what was once a vast hunting reserve adjoining Villa Ferdinanda. Set up by the Medicis in 1626, the reserve was enclosed by a 52km boundary wall.
Retrace your steps but leave Via Pineta very soon at a shrine and proceed N on a stony lane, going gently uphill between vast vineyards backed by Artimino and Villa Ferdinanda. As you reach a road and another shrine, branch L (SW) on unsurfaced Via Poggilarca, which leads to erstwhile Medici farm Poggilarca (122m, 20min). Now abandoned, Poggilarca stands on a marvellously scenic knoll, a perfect picnic spot. As you approach the property, fork R on the white gravel lane below the buildings. This leads N through vineyards. At an orange tank where the lane enters a property, leave the lane for the wide way to its R between rows of vines. Where the vineyards end, walk straight ahead on a rough track past olive trees, to emerge on Via del Palazzone.
Go L uphill, sticking with the quiet road up to the turn-off for Necropoli Prato Rosella, but this time branch L on Via Querceto past groups of old houses. A couple of minutes on, leave it for a lane R (mostly W) in gentle ascent. Further on, at a concreted stretch near a villa, take the uphill fork, which quickly brings you out onto Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII again. Turn L back to Artimino (45min).
WALK 3
The hills of Vinci
| Start/Finish | Vinci |
| Distance | 11km |
| Ascent/Descent | 450m |
| Grade | 2 |
| Walking time | 3hr 20min |
| Map | Tamari Edizioni Il Montalbano a piedi e in bicicletta 1:20,000; or Kompass n.2439 Toscana Nord 1:50,000 map 2 |
| Access | PiuBus links Empoli railway station and Vinci with a frequent service. |
| Note | The stretch between Fosso delle Quercete up to Faltognano can get overgrown but the way is clear. |
Paths, lanes and quiet country roads lead out of Vinci through olive groves up to the modest stone house at Anchiano where Leonardo was born. After climbing to the scenic hamlet of Santa Lucia, the walk follows a loop through woodland in the Montalbano hills. There’s plenty of drinking water en route but no food or refreshments once you’ve left Vinci, so go prepared.
Lovely views to the Montalbano ridge during the ascent from Anchiano
From Piazza Leonardo da Vinci (bus stop) in the upper part of Vinci (86m), follow Via Montalbano N, beneath the town walls and tower, to a park. Keep straight ahead (ignore the fork R for n.12) and 5min later branch R on Via Belvedere, alias n.14. After a steepish climb you leave the houses and tarmac behind, thanks to a lovely lane climbing gently N through olive groves. This is referred to as the Strada Verde (green way) and is well signed. At a road, go R – with a watchful eye for traffic – for the final metres to the casa natale (birthplace) of Leonardo at Anchiano (216m, 30min).
Not far along the road is a visitors’ car park at an intersection. Here, go straight ahead on narrow Via di Santa Lucia and puff your way up past the church to the hamlet of Santa Lucia (320m), where the loop begins. Santa Lucia offers a marvellous lookout over Vinci and the Valdarno.
From the small square-cum-parking area, branch R on n.14 and a lane. Soon, at a ceramic madonna shrine, you veer R in descent E through terraced olive groves, then into woods to a house and mill (280m). Just before the buildings, turn R on a path which immediately veers L through stands of bamboo below the house towards red-and-white markings on trees. This soon crosses the stream, Fosso delle Quercete, and climbs steadily SW on an occasionally overgrown path through abandoned terracing to emerge at a scenically sited cluster of houses. Ignore the lane to the L but take the road L the short distance uphill to Faltognano (364m, 1hr). As you approach the hamlet, the road is flanked by a high stone wall. Where this ends, branch L up to a church and a massive holm oak tree.
The holm oak is 5.2m in circumference and 15m high, and is at least 200 years old. From here, wide-ranging views can be enjoyed over Valdarno and the River Arno.
Continue following waymarks past a World War I cenotaph and out to a minor road. Go L but be prepared to leave the asphalt at the next bend for a lane lined with cypresses, which continues in the same direction NE entering woodland. Further along is a spring, Fonte del Sassone (518m), at the head of the Fosso delle Quercete valley (which you crossed after Santa Lucia).
A short distance due east from here is Il Cupolino (640m), the highest point on the Montalbano ridge.
The lane moves essentially W through chestnut and conifers, reaching a strategic 480m junction (50min). Here, n.14A heads NE to join other routes on the main ridge, but it is not recommended as the area is heavily wooded so views are limited. Go L (SW) on the clear lane in steady descent past properties and lovely views. Further down, the way is surfaced to Santa Lucia. Here, you pick up the road back to Anchiano then the Strada Verde to Vinci (1hr).
A panoramic square at Vinci
