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ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
The Gran Paradiso National Park
‘Intending visitors to the district should be warned that when the King of Italy is hunting around Cogne (the present King has not been there since 1885) they may find their movements impeded by fear of disturbing the game. This will seem however but a small hindrance when set against the great facilities which the royal hunting paths (passable for horses) afford to travellers on the less interesting portions of many of the ascents in this group.’
This introduction appeared a little over one hundred years ago in The Mountains of Cogne, one of the first guides to be published on the area. It was the work of alpine pioneers George Yeld and Reverend WAB Coolidge. In 1856 King Vittorio Emanuele II had unified several hunting grounds and declared a Royal Game Reserve. The move followed rulings in 1821 that prohibited hunting – except by royal entourages – in order to protect the ibex and chamois populations, which had fallen to wor-ryingly low levels.
Ibex in particular had been hunted intensely since medieval times. They were considered to be ‘walking pharmacies’ as their blood, horns, bones and even their droppings were used in remedies for everything from poisoning to rheumatism. A special talisman was even made of the tiny cross-shaped bone found in its heart, believed to guard the wearer against violent death.
Not only did the ban on hunting encourage growth in both the ibex and chamois populations, it also guaranteed their survival as these were the only such populations in the Alps. After World War I, in 1922, Vittorio Emanuele III, grandson of the ‘Hunter King’, renounced his hunting rights and had the area declared Italy's very first national park ‘for the purpose of protecting the fauna and flora, and preserving the special geological formations, as well as the beauty of the scenery’.
The Gran Paradiso sits in the Valle d'Aosta, in northwestern Italy, a marvellous region of magical mountains and rugged desolate valleys, verging on pristine wilderness. It is a mere alpine chough's flight from the Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa and Matterhorn ranges, landmark giants that can be seen from the many scenic passes and lookouts visited during this guide. Despite its attractions, the park is relatively undiscovered. Walkers can often enjoy unforgettable days on excellent trails through spectacular valleys that they have all to themselves, even at the height of the summer season.
Ibex at rest below the Gran Paradiso
The curious and romantic name Gran Paradiso goes back much further than the kings. While most experts say that the name Gran Paradiso, referring to the 4061m peak itself, is a contortion of ‘granta parei’ or ‘great wall’, some say that it comes from the presence of so many saints at the head of Valnontey – the peaks of San Pietro, San Andrea and Sant'Orso – and despite the nearby Punta dell'Inferno (Hell Point) and Testa della Tribolazione (Tribulation Peak).
Walks and treks
In the mid-1800s around 350km of wide tracks were constructed at the king's expense, along with five hunting lodges and mountain huts, manned by a veritable army of gamekeepers (converted poachers), beaters and porters. A total of 470km signed paths are now on offer – a good few summers' walking! Altitudes range from a thousand metres above sea level to over 3000 metres in permanent snow. In between are strolls across flowered meadows and conifer woods, steep heart-testing climbs over rough unstable terrain (inevitably followed by knee-knocking descents) and even cool snowfield traverses.
There is plenty of variety and there are options for any legs or lungs. Do remember that the further you venture away from ‘civilisation’ and the valley floors, the wilder and more exciting the scenery becomes and the fewer two-legged visitors you are likely to meet. Rewarding holidays can be had by basing yourself at a comfortable village hotel or campsite and taking day walks out in different directions. On the other hand, long-distance walkers with an adventurous bent can embark on the superb 12-day Alta Via 2 described at the beginning of the walk section. This traverses the southern side of the Valle d'Aosta over a sequence of forbidding crests and dizzy cols, connecting little-known Chardonney with the world-famous resort of Courmayeur, the gateway to Mont Blanc.
Otherwise, if you want to access higher altitudes and rugged landscapes, you can combine many of the 28 individual walks described in this book to make a longer trek. An excellent network of manned huts (rifugi) welcome walkers and provide tasty hot meals and sleeping quarters.
Geography and geology
Geographically the area is part of the Graian Alps, the northern part of the western Alps. It was possibly named after the mythical Greek hero Ercole Graio (Hercules), who is believed to have passed through Colle del Piccolo San Bernardo while he was completing his famous 12 labours.
Geologically speaking the Gran Paradiso group started out over 230 million years ago as volcanic material, with a fraction of marine sediments. Tectonic activity led, in fits and starts, to the formation of the Alps during the Tertiary period (about 54 to 57 million years ago), the accompanying heat and pressure responsible for the transformation into metamorphic rock. The Gran Paradiso summit, for instance, is made up of a huge dome of augen-gneiss girdled by calcareous rock, mica-schists and greenstone, to mention a few.
View of Valgrisenche mountains during ascent to Col de la Crosatie (AV2 stage 9)
Of great economic significance to man since pre-Roman times have been the immense mineral deposits, first and foremost the magnetite extracted at Cogne up until 1979 and processed at the Aosta steelworks. The original name of the Valle dell'Orco, the main southern valley, was ‘Eva d'or’ (water of gold) because of the precious minerals in its sands.
A brief historical overview
The area covered in this guide, the Gran Paradiso National Park and its surroundings, straddles two administrative and political regions of Italy -the Valle d'Aosta in the north and Piemonte in the south (often referred to as Piedmont in English).
Historical highlights include the Roman era when the city of Augusta Praetoria, present-day Aosta, was founded in 25BC as an important alpine junction on the Via delle Gallie. The valley was controlled by the Savoys, almost without interruption, from the 11th century up until 1861, when Italy was unified.
Although French was the main language for most of this period and it is still taught and used, Italian is more widely spoken these days. Many local people, however, speak an unusual patois of French-Provençal origin. This includes a wealth of specialised vocabulary for aspects of the natural alpine surroundings connected with the pastoral activities, as persists in place names.
Demographically, the mid-1800s saw a significant growth in population which put a strain on natura resources. This led to seasonal emigration of itinerant tinkers, seed-sellers, chimney sweeps and glaziers from the southern valleys in particular. Later, however, large-scale emigration became permanent and ex-pat communities such as the one in Paris have actually helped preserve the Valle Soana dialect. Contact with home villages is kept up and French number-plates are commonplace in village car parks during the holiday period.
A 1981 census put the permanent population of the Gran Paradiso at 8359, in sharp contrast to the 1881 peak of 20,616. A large number of villages have been abandoned over this period and walkers will find themselves wandering along age-old paths punctuated with votive shrines and passing through long-empty hamlets decorated with intriguing religious frescoes. Higher up, the functional shepherds' huts give a clear picture of now-historic lifestyles.
Today, the Gran Paradiso National Park has a nucleus of 51 rangers (four of whom are women) who spend their time on patrols, carrying out essential wildlife censuses and discouraging poaching. The Park does not have an easy life. Illegal hunting continues, storms frequently require urgent bridge and path maintenance work and, whatever government is in power, funds are cut drastically so that there are never enough staff or facilities.
Some statistics
From its beginning with the royal donation of 2200 hectares, the park today has a total area of 70,000 hectares (700km2). Of this, 10 per cent is wooded, 16.5 per cent used for pasture and agriculture, 24 per cent uncultivated and 40 per cent classified sterile. A total of 57 glaciers of varying dimensions occupy 9.5 per cent. Visitors can observe a wide range of ice-related phenomena: vast rock slabs polished smooth by the passage of some ancient glacier; groups of ‘roches moutonnées’, so called due to their similarity to recumbent sheep; U-shaped valleys crafted by the long-gone ice mass and erratics or huge boulders carried far from their starting place by the glacier into different geological contexts.
Vallon di Bardoney (Walk 2)
The characteristic moraines, usually chaotic ridges of debris transported by the ice and deposited at its sides or front, are useful in determining the history of the area: bare moraine probably dates back to the last mini-ice age, a mere 300 years ago. On average, 5000 years must pass before such a ridge can be colonised by vegetation such as the pioneer mountain avens, after preparatory work by lichens. And trees such as larch or dwarf mountain pine need even longer (15,000 years in all) before the soil is suitable for them to take root.
Naturally the glaciers themselves provide abundant meltwater so the area is rich in water courses, spectacuar waterfalls and dramatic strings of lakes of all shapes and colours. In the 1920s this abundance of water began 16 to attract hydroelectric dam builders, who were given free rein on the southern flanks to provide Torino (Turin) with the power its industries needed. This led to a considerable number of large dams, conduits and power stations, accompanied by clusters of service buildings for maintenance staff.
Valleys and bases
A number of long steep-sided valleys push their way towards the heart of the Gran Paradiso, providing fortuitous access for visitors. Nearly all the valleys are inhabited and have good tourist facilities in the shape of accommodation (hotels, camping grounds and high altitude mountain rifugi- see Accommodation) and tourist information offices. What's more, they can all be reached by public bus (see Local Transport). Beginning in the north and the Valle d'Aosta, minor Valle di Champorcher turns in west from Hône-Bard, gaining height to reach Chardonney, where Alta Via 2 sets out.
Forking south at Aymavilles, close to the regional capital of Aosta, the most important of the valleys is undeniably the Vallon di Cogne and its well-kept settlements. A pasture basin is home to the former mining centre of Cogne, while the sister villages of Lillaz, Valnontey and Gimillan are located a few kilometres away. Tiny Valnontey is arguably the best placed, not far from the Tribolazione glacier and its crown of beautiful peaks. Vallon di Cogne is a key transit point for the Alta Via 2 and the starting point for Walks 1 to 9.
Further west, from Villeneuve, Valsavarenche runs southwards as far as Pont, gateway to the Gran Paradiso mountain itself. With a decent choice of hotels and camping grounds, it makes an excellent base for Walks 11, 12, 13, 15 and 16. Alta Via 2 crosses the valley at Eaux Rousses, another fine place to stay.
Forking off from Valsavarenche at lntrod is quieter Val di Rhêmes, the westernmost confine of the national park. Here the main settlement is Rhêmes-Notre-Dame (including the village of Bruil) which offers a full range of tourist facilities. Alta Via 2 crosses through here. Further up the valley a scattering of hamlets is dominated by the magnificent Granta Parei outcrop. Walks 10 and 14 to 17 can be followed from this valley.
Valgrisenche also leaves the Valle d'Aosta at Villeneuve and is populated with scattered farming hamlets such as Planaval (a staging point for Alta Via 2) and the main village called Valgrisenche. Glaciers occupy the valley head and Walks 17, 18 and 19 can be enjoyed here.
Two more worthwhile valleys are touched on in this northern Valle d'Aosta section. With its junction at Pré-St-Didier, life in Valle di La Thuile centres around the thriving winter ski resort of La Thuile. In summer it can serve as the departure point for the stage of Alta Via 2 which climbs to the magnificent Ruitor glacier.
Lastly we come to Val Veny, which turns SW soon after Courmayeur. It is the only valley with no permanent inhabitants, understandable in view of its location at the foot of the breathtaking spreads of glaciers that spill down from the Mont Blanc massif. The final stage of Alta Via 2 runs this way.
The southernmost Piemonte side of the Gran Paradiso has similarly good access and direct transport links with Torino. First to be encountered is narrow Valle Soana and the village of Ronco Canavese, probably the most suitable base for forays into the surrounding mountains, such as Walks 25 to 28.
The Valle dell'Orco winds its way west, with a fork at Rosone for Vallone di Piantonetto and Walk 24. Further along is the picturesque if diminutive village of Noasca for Walk 23. Soon we reach Ceresole Reale set on a lakeside, a well-served base for Walks 20 to 22. At the top of that valley, well above the dams is Col del Nivolet where the road ends. Here a couple of rifugi come in handy for Walks 12, 15, 16 and 20.
Information
The head office of the Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso is in Torino (Turin) (Via della Rocca 47, 10123 Torino www.pngp.it). Visitor centres that hold exhibitions on local themes and offer guided walks can be found at Ceresole Reale, Noasca and Ronco Canavese in the southern Piemonte section and Cogne, Chavaney and Dégioz in the northern Valle d'Aosta section. The fascinating Alpine Botanical Garden at Valnontey also doubles as an information point.
Useful tourism offices are in
Aosta Tel 0165 236627 www.lovevda.it. This website covers all the villages on the Valle d'Aosta side of the Gran Paradiso park.
Ceresole Reale Tel 0124 953186 www.turismoceresolereale.it
Champorcher Tel 0125 37134 www.valledichamporcher.it
Cogne Tel 0165 74040 www.cogne.org
Courmayeur Tel 0165 842060 www.courmayeurmontblanc.it
Dégioz Tel 0165 905816
Ivrea Tel 0125 618131 www.anfiteatromorenicoivrea.it
La Thuile Tel 0165 884179 www.lathuile.it
Locana Tel 0124 83121
Noasca Tel 0124 901001 www.comune.noasca.to.it
Pont, Valsavarenche Tel 0165 95304 (summer)
Rhêmes Notre Dame Tel 0165 936114
Rhêmes Saint Georges Tel 0165 907634>
Ronco Canavese Tel 0124 817377 (summer) www.vallesoana.it
Valgrisenche Tel 0165 97193
Valprato Soana Tel 0124 812908 (summer) www.vallesoana.it
Access
By air
The most convenient airport for this region is Torino's Caselle www.aeroportoditorino.it. It is well served by many companies from the UK and European countries. While the occasional coach does go direct to Aosta, regular city trains and buses convey passengers to the city centre and the main railway station, Torino Porta Nuova, for ongoing services.
Milano is also handy and has two airports www.sea-aeroportimilano.it, both well served by UK, European and international companies. Both Malpensa and Linate have direct trains to Milano Centrale station for links via Chivasso to the Valle d'Aosta or via Torino Porta Susa for the Pont Canavese railway – see below.
By car
Drivers have a good choice of itineraries, which are also spectacular: from France via the Mont Blanc tunnel or the Piccolo San Bernardo pass; from Switzerland via the Gran San Bernardo pass and tunnel. From the south, as well as main SS26, the A5 autostrada (motorway) leads via Aosta to Courmayeur. For the southern section you'll need SS460 from Torino via Cuorgné and on to Pont Canavese.
Comba des Usselettes and Rifugio Deffeyes (AV2 stage 10)
By coach and train
From the north, Valle d'Aosta can be approached by coach from France via Chamonix or from Switzerland via Martigny. Otherwise, you can arrive from the south by train via Ivrea as far as Aosta or Pré-St-Didier, only 5.5km short of Courmayeur. Long-distance coaches also run from Torino and Milano (Milan).
The southern flanks of the Park are accessible from Torino, which in turn has international train connections via Modane in France. From Torino take the train line as far as Pont Canavese.
Local transport
Train information is available at www.trenitalia.com, tel 892021. Remember to stamp train tickets in one of the machines at the platform before you travel; failure to do so can result in a fine. The exception are tickets with a booked seat (showing date and time).
Timetables for all bus services in the Valle d'Aosta are available at www.regione.vda.it/trasporti, and local tourist offices can also provide timetables. In Aosta, you can get information at the central bus station (autostazione) (Tel 0165 262027) across the road from the railway station.
When reading timetables or asking for information, you will need to know that giornaliero (abbreviated as GG) means daily, scolastico means during school term, feriale means Monday to Saturday, and festivo means Sunday or public holidays. Sciopero means strike.
The services are very reasonably priced and travel to even the smallest hamlet. In midsummer there are usually extended runs to points of visitor interest. Summer timetables take effect around mid-June, ending early in September, depending on school term dates.
The different bus company services are summarised below.
GTT Tel 800 019152 (tel 011 0672000 from a mobile phone) www.gtt.to.it has a direct Torino-Col del Nivolet return run on Sundays and public holidays as well as responsibility for the shuttle buses from Lago Serrù to Col del Nivolet on Sundays and public holidays, from early July through August, in conjunction with the Park's ‘a piedi tra le nuvole’ initiative. They also run the train from Torino to the Pont Canavese railhead and ongoing buses in Valle dell'Orco and Valle Soana.
SADEM Tel 800 801600 (tel 011 3000611 from a mobile phone) www.sadem.it does Torino-Aosta runs as well as serving Torino's Caselle airport.
SAVDA Tel 800 170444 or 0165 367011 www.savda.it covers Cogne, Courmayeur, La Thuile, Valgrisenche, Val di Rhêmes and Valsavarenche.
For information on the local Cogne runs (to Valnontey, Lillaz and Gimillan) contact the Cogne Tourist Office (Tel 0165 74040) www.cogne.org.
VITA Tel 0125 966546 for Valle di Champorcher www.vitagroup.it.
Between July and September the park runs a handy on-demand mini bus that links the Valle d'Aosta valleys. Tel 339 5443364 or 331 4950951 www.grand-paradis.it.
When to go
Lago Goletta (Walk 17)
The park area and surroundings are naturally open all year, but access is subject to snow cover, avalanches and landslides which close paths and occasionally roads. The most suitable period for non-skiing visits is May to October. The high-altitude refuges function from late June to late September, although you can base yourself at any of the valley resorts at other times of the year. In May and June herds of ibex graze the fresh new grass on valley floors and even around roads and settlements, but by midsummer they have returned to their rocky spurs and can be seen at about 2200m, never far from chamois.
For flower lovers, July is probably the best month. August is peak holiday time for Italians and valley accommodation for weekends is then best booked in advance. The higher refuge-to-refuge itineraries are feasible in high summer with less snow on the passes. Crowds are rare higher up although organised group tours are becoming more common on popular central routes. Late summer brings crystal clear days, burnt autumn colours and deserted paths. Italy stays on summer time until late October, meaning a bonus of extra daylight for visitors. The choice is yours.
How to use this book
This guide does not purport to cover the whole of the Gran Paradiso and southern Valle d'Aosta comprehensively. The itineraries explore highlights and special places to whet walking appetites. With a map and a sense of adventure, you will be able to concoct scores of other delightful walks.
We begin with the superb longdistance route, Alta Via 2. It lends itself to numerous variations and each stage could be followed as a day walk. The successive chapters of the guide contain walks suitable for visitors who prefer to make their base in a valley hotel or campsite and embark on shorter excursions. A handful of excellent traverses is also included, brilliant routes that convey walkers to wild exhilarating heights and act as inks between the inhabited valleys. Suggestions are given for combining these into a further series of long-distance routes.
The descriptions of the individual walks and the stages on Alta Via 2 all begin with some basic information: time, distance, ascent/descent, grade and map required.
Time
Based on a walker of average fitness, the estimate of walking time gives a rough idea of how long it will take to complete the route in good conditions. Roughly speaking, it is based on 1h for 300m of ascent or 500m of descent or 5km on level ground (but there isn't much of that). However, it does not include stops for rests or meals, so always allow plenty of extra time. Groups should always remember that their pace will be dictated by their slowest member.
Distance and ascent/descent
Ascent/descent (or height gain and loss) is also provided, as is distance, although this is of limited usefulness in alpine circumstances. For instance, 1km might sound short, but combined with a height gain of 1000m, that works out at a 45° gradient, so you can be sure the path will be verging on vertical in places. Profile diagrams are also supplied for the Alta Via and include transport and accommodation information. They enable longdistance walkers to see timing, height gains and losses and the steepness involved at a glance.
Grade
This is an indication of the difficulty of the route. Do remember that adverse weather conditions or snow cover will increase difficulty by several degrees.
Grade 1 – a straightforward path with moderate slope, suitable for all walkers
Grade 2 – a fairly strenuous alpine walk, but not especially difficult
Grade 3 – some experience on alpine terrain is a prerequisite as there may be particularly steep and exposed sections. A head for heights and orientation skills may also come in useful. (Note: walkers with little alpine experience will be comforted to learn that difficult sections of popular paths are often fitted with chains or a length of cable attached to the rock face to facilitate passage.)
Path marking
Path signposts in Valle d'Aosta
All the paths followed in this guide are numbered. This entails identifying markers carrying the number along the way, be they paint stripes on tree trunks and prominent stones or signposts at junctions. The style varies from red and white paint stripes with a number in black in the southern Piemonte region (in conformity with the Italian Alpine Club system used nationwide) to a system of yellow and black arrows and stripes in the northern areas covered by this guide, namely the Valle d'Aosta region. The Alta Via 2 is distinguished by a black and yellow triangle and the number ‘2’. (A note of caution: the Forestry Authority in the Valle d'Aosta also uses red and white stripes for tree markings – do not be led astray!)
Then there are the lifesaving cairns, appropriately referred to in Italian as ometti or little men. These mounds of stones heaped up by thoughtful walkers seem banal but on an uncertain path in low cloud they stand out like beacons, while painted marks are swallowed up by the mist.
Dos and Don'ts
Signboard Piemonte style
Find time for some basic physical preparation prior to setting out on a walking holiday, as a reasonable state of fitness will make your excursions more enjoyable, not to mention safer.
Read the walk description before setting out and start gradually, choosing walks suited to your experience and state of fitness. Start out as early as possible and always have extra time up your sleeve to allow for detours due to collapsed bridges, wrong turns and missing signposts.
Don't overload your rucksack. Pop it on the bathroom scales at home before setting out – 10kg is the absolute maximum! Remember that drinking water and food will add weight each day. And as the afternoon wears on and that refuge never seems to get any closer, your pack will become inexplicably heavier.
Never set out on a long route if the weather is uncertain. Areas such as those featuring extensive ice and snow fields can be unexpectedly submerged in a thick layer of mist, making orientation problematic. Rain, wind and snow are tiring and can make even easy paths dangerous. Do keep away from crests and any metal fixtures during an electrical storm and don't shelter under trees or rock overhangs. Ask at tourist offices or refuges for weather forecasts or check the local newspapers. An altimeter is a useful instrument – when a known altitude (such as that of the refuge) goes up, this means the atmospheric pressure has dropped and the weather could change for the worse.
Tempting though it may often be, especially in descent, don't stray from the path during excursions, especially not to cut corners. This will cause irreparable erosion and damages vegetation. Remember that your behaviour will encourage others to do the same.
Carry all your rubbish back down to the valley where it can be disposed of correctly to save the park and refuge staff time and money. Even organic waste such as apple cores and orange peel is best not left lying around as it could upset the diet of animals and birds not used to such food.
Be considerate when making a toilet stop. Keep away from watercourses, don't leave unsightly paper lying around and remember that abandoned huts and rock overhangs could serve as life-saving shelter for someone else!
Wildlife should not be disturbed unnecessarily or handled. Under no circumstances are dogs allowed in the park, even on a leash. Collecting flowers, insects or minerals is strictly forbidden, as are fires and wild camping.
Always carry extra protective clothing as well as energy foods for emergency situations. Remember that in normal circumstances the temperature drops an average of 6°C for every 1000 metres you climb.
Learn the international call for help – see Emergencies. Don't rely on your mobile phone as there may not be any signal in remote valleys.
Alpe Gran Nomenon and Bivacco Gontier (Walk 6)
Emergencies
All walkers should have insurance cover. Those from the EU need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which has replaced the old E111. Holders are entitled to free or subsidised emergency health treatment in Italy. UK residents can apply online at www.dh.gov.uk. Australia has a similar reciprocal agreement with Italy – see www.medicareaustralia.gov.au. All other nationalities need to take out suitable cover.
Travel insurance to cover an alpine walking holiday is also strongly recommended as costs for rescue can be hefty. There is usually a special policy for members of alpine clubs – see Accommodation.
‘Help’ is aiuto in Italian and ‘ need help’ is Ho bisogno di aiuto (o bee-zon-yoh dee eye-yoo-toh). If you need help, experienced staff at refuges can always be relied on in emergencies.
The international rescue signals can come in handy: the call for help is six signals per minute. These can be visual (such as waving a handkerchief or flashing a torch) or audible (whistling or shouting). They are to be repeated after a one-minute pause. The answer is three visual or audible signals per minute, to be repeated after a one-minute pause. Anyone who sees or hears such a call for help must contact the nearest refuge or police station as quickly as possible.
The general emergency telephone number in Italy is 112, while calls for soccorso alpino (mountain rescue) need to be made to 118.
View upvalley from Rifugio Bezzi (Walk 17)
The arm signals in the box above could be useful for communicating with a helicopter.
Mountaineering and guides
Attractive rock and glacier itineraries abound in this region. One extremely popular route is the Gran Paradiso summit, its attraction augmented by the fact it is the one and only above-4000m peak wholly within Italian territory. A mixed rock and ice climb, it is best tackled with the assistance of a qualified local guide who can recommend further excursions suited to your experience and capabilities. Enquire at the refuges or contact the official guides associations listed below.
Lago Lillet (Walk 20)
Northern valleys:
Cogne Tel 0165 74835 www.guidealpinecogne.it
Pont Valsavarenche Tel 0165 95304 www.espritmontagne.com
guidealpine@lathuile.it
Valgrisenche Tel 329 0857865 www.guidevalgrisenche.com
Southern valleys:
Ivrea Tel 0125 618131 www.4026.it
Maps
An excellent general road map is the 1:200,000 ‘Piemonte e Valle d'Aosta’ map published by the Touring Club taliano (TCI) and widely available both in Italy and overseas.
As far as walking maps go, Blu Edizioni has done a good 1:50,000 version of the whole park; its sole drawback is that it does not cover the start and latter half of the Alta Via 2 as they are beyond the park confines.
L’Escursionista (www.lescursionista.it) and IGC (www.istitutogeograficocentrale.it) both produce an excellent series of 1:25,000 walking maps. Appropriate maps are listed in the information boxes at the start of each stage or walk.
Most of the above are on sale at bookshops and newspaper kiosks throughout the Gran Paradiso National Park and the Valle d'Aosta, as well as overseas map outlets and outdoor gear shops.
Note: Due to the region's history, the spelling of place names varies considerably on both signposts and maps and discrepancies are common; for instance a col may be referred to as either finestra in the Italian version or fenêtre in French. Moreover the Valle d'Aosta Regional Authority is currently working on re-introducing toponyms for both maps and signposts in the ancient patois. In the not-too-distant future these may well substitute what are currently widely recognised versions in Italian and French and undoubtedly cause confusion. Be aware of this possibility and be prepared to exercise a little linguistic elasticity when map reading! Path numbering is also subject to ongoing revision and there may well be minor discrepancies between the path numbers given in this guide and those on new signposts.
The sketch maps aim to give an idea of the location of the routes described, together with significant geographical features, but are not intended as substitutes for the commercial maps listed above. They are intended to help with orientation and pre-trip preparation. (See the sketch map legend on page 6 for an explanation of the symbols used.) Finally, an Italian-English glossary is provided as an appendix; it contains a wealth of terminology found on maps.
Accommodation
Everything from guesthouses, converted farms, cosy refuges, spartan sanctuaries and bivouac huts is available, not to mention campsites. Local options are listed in the individual walk descriptions. Whatever your accommodation, it is a good idea to settle your bill in the evening so as not to waste valuable time in the morning. Affittacamere is a B&B and an albergo is a hotel.
Rifugi
Rifugio Savoia (Walk 15)
A rifugio (rifugi is plural) is a manned mountain hut usually located in a scenic high altitude spot, providing hot meals and overnight accommodation during the summer. The majority are run by the Italian Alpine Club (Club Alpino Italiano or CAI) as well as local families and anyone is welcome to use the facilities. They come in a wide range of shapes and sizes, such as a converted hunting lodge, former electricity board building and an old farm.
Rifugio Miserin and the sanctuary (AV2 Stage 2)
The beauty of the refuge network is the flexibility it gives walkers and climbers. The atmosphere is generally friendly and helpful and the staff are a motley crew including students, assorted members of local families and alpine guides. They all share tasks, including unloading the precious supplies brought in by helicopter, jeep, mechanised cableway, horseback or even backpack. Due to the strict regu-ations, only refuges outside the park boundaries can use mechanised options.
As far as visitor facilities go, there may be a choice between a private room with fresh linen or a bunk bed in the dormitorio (dormitory) where blankets or a continental quilt are provided. A lightweight personal sleeping sheet (with or without a pillow case) is compulsory in CAI huts and recommended elsewhere. Likewise, a towel is essential as the majority of huts provide a doccia calda (hot shower). (You may need to ask for a gettone (token) to operate the shower and be warned that water flow is often timed.) In this book, all refuges have a hot shower unless mentioned otherwise.
CAI refuges offer discounted rates for its members and alpine clubs with reciprocal agreements. UK residents may wish to join the UK branch of the Austrian Alpine Club (http://aacuk.org.uk) if not the Italian Club (www.cai.it), both of which include rescue and emergency insurance cover.
Remember to change enough foreign currency before setting out on walks, as refuge staff cannot be expected to accept anything but euros in cash. Charges for bed and board were about €40-€50 a night at the time of writing, not including drinks. Credit cards are rarely accepted. Most large villages and towns have a cash point.
Mezza pensione or half board (meaning dinner, bed and breakfast) is commonly offered and usually an excellent deal. The huts all offer hot meals at both lunch and dinner. You may have the choice of a pasta dish or minestrone vegetable soup, followed by second courses of meat and various side dishes. Vegetarians will need to request special meals, which are not usually a problem and they will whip you up an omelette or cheese dish.
Regional culinary specialities may be on offer. Among those worth trying are: polenta concia, a delicious and filling thick cornmeal porridge mixed with cheese; delicate carbonata, meat stewed in red wine with spices; risotto alla valdostana, a rice dish with melted local cheeses such as fontina and toma. An interesting, if limited, array of wines comes from the few vineyards in the Valle d'Aosta, usually supplemented by the fuller-bodied (and less costly) Piemonte wines such as Barbera and Nebbiolo. Stronger stuff comes in the form of aromatic Genepì, known for its digestive properties and made from the flowers of the same name (and not to be confused with juniper). The grolla, a decorated covered wooden bow with multiple mouthpieces, may appear after dinner – filled with a memorable mixture of coffee, red wine, grappa, sugar and lemon. It is passed around for measured sips and so called the ‘cup of friendship’.
Local refuges with accommodation and guesthouses are listed alongside each walk description, complete with sleeping capacity and opening period. These dates will vary from year to year depending on local conditions, so, if in doubt, especially at the start or close of the season, do check by phoning the refuge itself or asking at the nearest tourist office. Generally speaking the summer season means mid-June to mid-September. Intrepid ski tourers will be pleased to know that many rifugi open in spring to accommodate them.
Summer advance bookings are only really necessary on July or August weekends and will only usually be held until 6pm. Should you change your route, do notify the refuge to cancel as expensive rescue operations (billed to you) might be set in motion when you don't show up. Guests should always sign the register and indicate their next destination (or tell hotel staff their planned route for the day) as it could help point rescuers in the right direction in a search.
In refuges, ‘lights out’ is 10pm-6am when the refuge generator is turned off, although breakfast may be served pre-dawn if the hut serves as a base for an important ascent. Walking boots, together with bulky ice and mountaineering gear, should be left on appropriate racks in the hallway and slippers are often provided. In line with Italian law, smoking is not allowed inside anywhere.
Bivacco Davito (Walk 26)
As well as the main premises, most refuges have a ricovero invernale, literally a ‘winter shelter’. Spartan but always open, they are intended primarily for emergency use when the refuge is closed, although they could also be used by walkers out of season. Intending users will need to be fully equipped with sleeping bag, food, stove, utensils and so on. Water is usually available in the vicinity.
Bivouac huts
A bivacco hut can be the classic mountaineer type, a rounded metal container (with basic bunk beds and blankets), or, at best, a converted shepherd's hut with running water, wood or gas stove and blankets. They are not always left open, thanks to inconsiderate users in the past. Information on where to collect the key can be found under the relevant walk. Please leave the premises in good condition. There is not usually any charge to use them, but a donation is always a good idea to go towards maintenance costs.
You will also come across a series of modest huts, 38 in all, marked on maps as Capanna or Casotto PNGP. They belong to the park for exclusive use by the rangers, and are not available to walkers.
Camping
Wild camping is forbidden within the Gran Paradiso National Park, and allowed only outside its borders above 2500m. However, there are good facilities in most valleys and many camping grounds also have bungalows.
Vallon di Cogne:
Al Sole (Lillaz) Tel 0165 74237 www.campingalsole.com, open year-round
Gran Paradiso (Valnontey) Tel 0165 749204 www.campeggiogranparadisocogne.it, open June to Sept
Lo Stambecco (Valnontey) Tel 0165 74152 www.campeggiolostambecco.it, open May to Sept
Les Salasses (Lillaz) Tel 0165 74252 www.campingcogne.it, open year-round
Valsavarenche:
Pont-Breuil (Pont) Tel 0165 95458 www.campingpontbreuil.com, open May to Sept
Gran Paradiso (Plan de la Presse) Tel 0165 905801 www.campinggranparadiso.it, open June to Sept
Grivola (Bien) Tel 0165 905743 www.campinghotelgrivola.com, open April to Sept
Val di Rhêmes:
Val di Rhêmes (Rhêmes-Saint-Georges) Tel 0165 907648 www.campingvaldirhemes.com, open May to Sept
Valle dell'Orco:
Piccolo Paradiso (Ceresole Reale) Tel 0124 953235 www.campingpiccoloparadiso.it, open April to Oct
Villa (Villa) Tel 346 5792146 www.campingvilla.it, open April to Oct
Valle de la Thuile:
Rutor (Villaret) Tel 333 1372961 www.campingrutor.altervista.org, open June to Sept
Val Veny:
La Sorgente (Peuterey) Tel 389 9020772 www.campinglasorgente.net, open summer
Aiguille Noire (Zerotta) Tel 0165 869041 www.aiguillenoire.com, open summer
Val Veny (Cuignon) Tel 0165 869073, open summer
What to take
The choice of gear to take can make or break a walking holiday. It is worth spending time beforehand on careful preparation. The following checklist may be helpful.
Comfortable lightweight rucksack with waist straps; plastic bags or stuff bags to keep the contents organised
Walking boots with ankle support and non-slip soles, preferably already worn in
Light footwear such as sandals for the evenings
Lightweight sleeping sheet or sleeping bag liner, essential for overnight stays in mountain huts (on sale in many CAI rifugi)
Small towel and personal toiletries in small containers
First aid kit and personal medicines
Rainproof gear – either an anorak, overtrousers and rucksack cover or a large poncho. Walkers who wear spectacles will appreciate a folding umbrella, although it won't be much use in a high wind
Telescopic trekking poles to distribute rucksack weight over the body and off wonky knees will provide psychological support during steep descents and stream crossings, keep sheep dogs at bay or even double as a washing line
Sunglasses, hat, chapstick and high factor cream. For every 1000m you climb the intensity of the sun's UV rays increases by ten per cent. This, combined with lower levels of humidity and pollution which act as filters in other areas, and possible snow cover which reflects UV rays, means that you need a cream with a much higher protection factor than at sea level.
Layers of clothing for dealing with everything from scorching sun to a snow storm: T-shirts and shorts, comfortable long trousers (not jeans), warm fleece and a wind-proof jacket, with woolly hat and gloves for emergencies. Gaiters come in handy for snow traverses
A supply of high energy food such as muesli bars and chocolate
Maps, altimeter, compass and binoculars
Camera, extra memory cards, battery recharger with adapter
Whistle, small headlamp or torch with spare battieres, for calling for help
Supply of euros in cash and credit card. ATMs can be found at most of the towns on the routes. Assume that a rifugio does not accept credit cards unless otherwise stated.
Salt tablets or electrolyte powders to combat salt depletion caused by excessive sweating
Water bottle
Mobile phone, recharger and adapter
Wildlife
Animals
One of the main reasons for visiting the Gran Paradiso is the marvellous opportunity for observing wildlife at close quarters. To state the obvious, the best way to spot animals is actually to look for them – most are masters of disguise and perfectly camouflaged in their natural habitat. Desolate rock-strewn cirques may reveal fawn patches which, on closer inspection, turn out to be chamois. Levellish grassy ground is pitted with entrances to marmot burrows and abandoned farm buildings overgrown with nettles may be home to vipers. Uninviting rock crests are worth perusing with binoculars for the likelihood of ibex sentinels tracking the progress of walkers!
Naturally the formidable ibex, Capra ibex, is the recognised king of the Gran Paradiso. Also known as bouquetin or steinbock, this stocky wild goat is easily recognisable from a distance for its enormous backward-curving ribbed horns, which can grow almost to one metre in length on males, double that of the females. Well established and protected these days, they now number a record 5300, in contrast to the 300 reported by Yeld and Coolidge in 1893 and the 400 survivors after World War II. Males live between nine and eleven years and weigh on average 95 to 100kg. Females are smaller at around 65 to 70kg. It was the original Gran Paradiso stock that successfully repopulated the whole of alpine Europe.
Male ibex grazing
For guaranteed ibex viewing, try the immediate surroundings of Rifugio Vittorio Sella in Valnontey. There on a typical late summer's evening the young males are silhouetted on high ridges clashing horns in mock battle in preparation for the December mating season. (In December it is anything but pretend with the females only on heat for 24 hours.) Meanwhile sedate older males graze unperturbed, ignoring onlookers, some distance from small herds of timid females with their young. High rocky terrain acts as a stage for their unbelievable acrobatic displays, although they shift around in search of grass and can even be seen on valley floors in spring. In midwinter the herds retreat to high altitudes, carefully choosing south-facing slopes to increase the chances of snow slipping downhill and revealing the vegetation they need to feed on.
Chamois, on the other hand, Rupicapra rupicapra, can also be seen in woods as well as the high rocky outcrops. Another type of mountain goat, the chamois is slender and daintier than the ibex, with shorter hooked horns and white patches on its face and rear. A recent count recorded 7700 chamois in the park. Their principal predators are foxes and eagles but long snowy winters take the greatest toll on both the ibex and the chamois populations. Walkers of either sex may be surprised to hear reticent lone males whistling at them to mark their territory.
Baby marmot
It is hard to miss hearing the European alpine marmot (Marmota marmota) with its shrill whistle warning of imminent danger or seeing a well-padded rear scampering over grassy hillocks towards its burrow. These comical beaver-like vegetarians live in large underground colonies and 8000–10,000 were reported at the last count. Protected now, they were once hunted for their fat, used in ointments believed to be a cure for rheumatism. The belief was unfounded, however, and the practice seemingly arose from a linguistic misunderstanding: the real ‘marmot oil’ for treating aches and pains actually comes from the so-called marmot plum or Briançon apricot, whose yellow stones produced an oil helpful in extracting the active ingredients from rhododendron galls.
Red foxes may be of little interest to British visitors, but the easiest way to spot one of these pretty creatures is to wait outside a refuge at nightfall, as the scavengers come for titbits in the rubbish.
A sizeable carnivore currently returning gradually westward through the Alps is the mysterious lynx. Sightings of the tufted-ear feline with grey-brown mottled fur have already been reported by hunters and rangers in Valle d'Aosta, where it prefers the shelter of low altitude woods, the habitat of its favourite prey, the roe deer. (It is also known to hunt old ibex who are slower on their feet.)
Another recent but unwelcome arrival is the wild boar. Not a native here it was introduced to populate hunting reserves and has bred so successfully that it is becoming a nuisance, wreaking havoc in the chestnut woods. So numerous have they become in Valle Soana that the park rangers have to spend valuable time hunting them down.
There are also several amphibians to spot in the park. The common frog is renowned for its ability to spend winters frozen into ponds up to altitudes of 2500m, thawing back to life with the arrival of spring. On dry southern hillsides around 1500m the bright emerald sheen of the green lizard is hard to miss, while several varieties of snake are occasionally glimpsed, usually sunning themselves on paths or old stone walls. The most common is the poisonous and protected asp viper (no relation at all to the Egyptian cobra!). This greyish-brown snake has a clear diamond pattern along its back and is slightly smaller than the common viper found in Britain. It is always featured on the helpful posters in tourist offices, visitor centres and refuges. Extremely timid, it only attacks when threatened, so do give it time to slither away should you encounter one on the path.
Chamois at pasture
Elementary precautions walkers can take are to keep their legs covered when traversing an overgrown zone, and tread heavily. Should someone be bitten, keep calm and seek medical help as soon as possible. Bandaging and immobilisation of the limb are usually recommended in the meantime. Remember that you do have about 30 hours' leeway, and if there is no swelling after two hours, it either means that no venom entered the bloodstream or that it wasn't a viper at all.
Birds and insects
Higher up glide ubiquitous flocks of chaotic noisy orange-beaked crows, more correctly known as alpine choughs. Great chatty socialisers, they appear out of nowhere at strategic cols at the rustling of a plastic bag in the sure knowledge that they will be fed by walkers' crumbs. Their only equals in noise production are the raucous European jays, which flash blue feathers on their dashes through the mixed woods lower down.
Impressive shadows may be cast by golden eagles, who have a field day in spring and summer preying on young marmots and lambs, the scarcity of vegetation making it easy for them. The only competition in terms of territory comes from the largest bird in the Alps, the lammergeier or bearded vulture. Not a hunter itself, it prefers carcasses. It is able to swallow bones up to 30cm in length (digestion then requiring 24 hours!), and is renowned for its ability to crack bones by dropping them from a great height to get to the marrow. With a maximum wing span of three metres, its wedge-shaped tail distinguishes it from the eagle, whose tail is rounded when seen from below. The reintroduction of vultures born in captivity took off in 1986 in Austria and then spread to other parts of the Alps (1994 saw the first actual release in Italy) and sightings are now a frequent occurrence. Otherwise an impressive stuffed specimen is on display at the Chavaney (Val di Rhêmes) Park Visitor Centre.
Other fascinating spectacles are offered by brilliant clouds of butterflies which vie for supremacy in brightness – notably the metallic hues of the common blue Icarus butterfly which passing walkers cause to flutter up from their puddles. Perching on a thistle, you may also find the rare Red Apollo, pale grey-cream but with trademark black and red ‘eyes’ on its wings.
Last but not least, mention must be made of the so-called glacier flea, large numbers of which form widespread dark patches on the surface of glaciers and snow fields up to 3800m. It is one to two millimetres long, hairy or scaly, mottled brown and feeds on organic matter such as pollen carried up by the wind. Alternatively red-tinted snow may either mean sand from a far-off desert, incredible though it may seem, or cold-loving algae with a blood-red colouring.
Vegetation
An excellent place to begin admiring the remarkable array of alpine plants is the attractive 10,000m2 Giardino Botanico Alpino ‘Paradisia’ in Valnontey, established in 1955 and named after the St Bruno lily Paradisia liliastrum. Over the summer 1000 labelled alpine species flourish there and of these a good 250 are found wild in the park.
The relatively limited woods are composed mainly of mixed conifer, dominated by larch and Arolla pine on the upper edge, along with juniper shrubs. Common are curious dwarf versions of trees such as the net-leaved willow and ice-age relict dwarf birch. Larch woods also share their habitat with alpenrose shrubs and their pretty pink blooms, as well as wine-red martagon lilies and the minute flowers produced by bilberry and cowberry plants, in preparation for their late-summer fruit.
Edelweiss
The star of the park's flowers is the record-holding glacier crowfoot, which grows at heights of up to 4200m. Also at high altitudes, colonisers of screes and bare rock, such as lilac round-leaved penny-cress and sturdy saxifrage (‘rock breaker’) penetrate cracks and fragment the stone. Moving downwards a little, stunning carpets of white ranunculus and pasque flowers cover high pasture basins such as the Piano del Nivolet. Marshland is often punctuated with soft white cotton grass and tiny carnivorous butterworts, the blue-violet common variety or yellow-white alpine type. The famous edelweiss is relatively unusual due to a lack of the calcareous terrain it requires, but another ice-age relict, the delicate and rare twinflower, grows in several valleys on open grassland. Elegant orchids are widespread in meadows. The dark reddish-brown black vanilla variety has a surprisingly strong cocoa aroma close-up.
Martagon lily
Round-leaved penny cress on scree
Purple orchid
The alpine environment is extremely hostile to life in general and the season for high-altitude vegetation can be as short as 60 to 70 days, including growth and reproduction. Each species has developed survival techniques, ranging from thick hairy layers as protection from cold winds and evaporation (edelweiss), antifreeze in its leaves (glacier crowfoot), as well as ground-hugging forms that minimise exposure, allow the plant to exploit the heat from the earth and ensure protective snow cover (cushions of rock jasmine). In addition to the beating they get from the elements, many also risk being nibbled by chamois (especially attracted to large-flowered leopard's-bane for its sugar content) and marmots (who go for forget-me-nots) and even thought-less picking by humans.
To end on a ‘spiritual’ note, a quick mention is in order for the insignificant-looking but strongly aromatic flower of the yellow genipi, found on stony grassland. Although it is rather rare and protected, local inhabitants are permitted to gather a limited number to prepare their beloved Genepì – a perfect after-dinner drink with guaranteed digestive properties to boot.
A recommended rucksack companion for flower lovers is the Cicerone pocket guide Alpine Flowers (2014), while Grey-Wilson and Blamey's Alpine Flowers of Britain and Europe (Harper Collins, 1995) is the perfect reference book at home.
Local traditions
It is worth mentioning the kaleidoscope of cultural events on offer in the region. In addition to the numerous castles in the main Valle d'Aosta, the most characteristic tourist attractions are the unusual ‘Battailles des Reines’. Probably traceable back to prehistoric times, they involve two enormous pregnant cows engaged in (bloodless) battle, for the honour of being decorated ‘Queen’. Each competitor has already established herself as best milker-cum-battler at the head of a herd. Emotional local tournaments involving entire villages start in March and the grand finale is the Regiona Championship held late October in Aosta. Copies of the ‘calendrier des combats’ (open to all) are available from tourist offices. The practice is also extended to goats with the ‘Bataille des Tzevres’ held in Valgrisenche in September.
Otherwise long processions to high altitude sanctuaries are a favourite midsummer activity. Popular local events with a legendary or religious origin, they attract huge crowds, often emigrants who return every year for the occasion. Worthy of mention are the Notre Dame des Neiges procession to Lago Miserin (5 August), the mammoth San Besso celebrations at Campiglia Soana (19 August) and ‘Lo Patron de Sen Grat’ (5 September), which are all mentioned in the descriptions of the individual walks.
Further suggestions
Walkers concluding the Alta Via 2 at Courmayeur will doubtless be extremely fit (if not utterly exhausted) and may like to proceed around the Mont Blanc massif on the popular TMB – see Kev Reynolds' Tour of Mont Blanc (Cicerone, 2007).
The mammoth Grande Traversata delle Alpi (GTA), the 46-day hike across Piemonte, also touches the Gran Paradiso and can be picked up in Valle dell'Orco or Soana – see Through the Italian Alps by Gillian Price (Cicerone, 2005).
Leading up to Col Lauson (AV2 stage 5)
