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12 soft d’Agen prunes

6 unsmoked streaky bacon rashers, derinded and halved lengthways

These used to be offered on many bar menus, but you’re more likely these days to find them served as canapés, or in the case of devils on horseback, with roast chicken, perhaps. A cinch to make, they are particularly appetizing with a cold lager or glass of white wine.

Preheat the grill to the highest setting and pre-soak 24 cocktail sticks in warm water (to prevent scorching under the grill).

For the angels, shuck the oysters (for technique, see page 16) and strain off the juices. (Save these to add to a fish soup or sauce.) Sprinkle each oyster lightly with white pepper and wrap in a piece of bacon. Fix securely with a cocktail stick. Place on a baking sheet, leaving a little space between each one, and drizzle over a little olive oil. Grill for about 3 minutes on each side, until the bacon is brown and crisp on top. Serve at once, or keep warm in a low oven while you make the devils.

For the devils, wrap each prune with a piece of bacon and cook in the same way as the angels. Serve piping hot.