While I was in Ho Chi Minh City, in Vietnam, I visited Ben Thanh Market with a restaurant owner named Vy. It is the largest market in the city, selling everything from electrical goods and silk to live frogs and dried spices, and is the heart of the community; Vy told me she had been shopping for ingredients twice a day in a market like this since she was a toddler. It was here that I was given the opportunity to cook this scallop dish.

This recipe combines the fragrance of spring onions with the natural sweetness of scallops and the crunchy texture of peanuts to make a delicious and quick appetiser. I cooked this over charcoal, although a grill is fine, but either way it is easy to overcook scallops, so keep an eye on them.

Open the scallops and clean them, removing the roe. Reserve the top shells. (Wash and dry them – you need these to cook the scallops in.)

Place a wok over a high heat and add the oil. Sauté the spring onions for a few minutes to soften, then stir in a dash of fish sauce and the white pepper to taste. Remove the wok from the heat.

Season the scallops with salt and pepper and arrange them in the clean shells. Spoon the spring onion mixture on top of each scallop and drizzle with chilli oil. Place on a grill rack and cook over hot coals for 4–5 minutes or until the scallops caramelise. Alternatively, place the scallop shells on a baking tray and grill for 3–4 minutes under a high heat until cooked.

Serve the scallops in their shells, scattered with crispy shallots and crushed roasted peanuts. Garnish with sliced red chilli, if you wish.

Roasted coconut cashew nuts

SERVES 4–5

200g cashew nuts

25g butter

1 tbsp sea salt flakes

1 tbsp crushed red chilli flakes

50g sweetened desiccated coconut, toasted

I could easily snack on nuts all day long. The mild taste of cashew nuts lends itself to being paired with stronger flavours, which is why I think this dish works so well. Here there is an excellent balance between sweet and spicy.

The nuts take only minutes to prepare and you can apply this recipe to other nuts, too, particularly almonds or peanuts. If you wish, you can make these up to two weeks in advance and keep them in an airtight container.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Place the nuts on an ungreased baking tray and bake for about 10–15 minutes until they are lightly browned.

Meanwhile, melt the butter and place in a medium mixing bowl. Add the salt and chilli flakes and mix well. When the nuts are ready, tip them into the bowl. Toss the nuts, ensuring that they are completely coated in butter. Transfer the nuts to a plate, sprinkle over the coconut and mix well – it won’t necessarily stick to the nuts, but it should decorate them.

Serve immediately or allow to cool and store in an airtight container.

Tamarind, mint and lemonade cooler

SERVES 4

3 tbsp tamarind paste

100–150ml water

1 tsp caster sugar

large handful of mint leaves, plus extra sprigs to decorate

juice of 1 lime

1 litre cloudy lemonade (preferably sugar-free)

ice cubes, to serve

This recipe is inspired by a very similar drink I was served at a restaurant in Cambodia. The addition of the tamarind makes the drink a little sour, but incredibly refreshing. I also think it would make a great cocktail with a shot of gin or vodka.

Place the tamarind paste in a measuring jug and top it up with the water. Mix well. Pour into a small saucepan set over a medium heat, then add the sugar and mint leaves. Bring to a gentle boil, allowing the flavours to infuse for 4–5 minutes.

Remove from the heat and discard the mint leaves, then add the lime juice. Pour the liquid into a large jug and top up with the cloudy lemonade. Place some ice in four glasses and fill with an equal share of the drink. Decorate with some fresh mint sprigs and drink immediately.

Stir-fried mussels and clams

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER, 2 AS A MAIN

500g fresh mussels, debearded and cleaned

500g fresh clams, cleaned

2 tbsp vegetable oil

4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

1 red long finger chilli, thinly sliced

3 shallots, peeled and finely sliced

2 tbsp chilli paste

1–2 tsp palm sugar

1 tbsp oyster sauce

2 tbsp fish sauce

juice of 1 lime

large handful of holy basil, roughly chopped

sea salt and crushed black pepper

For years I have steamed mussels and clams French-style with different wines and herbs, as this is how I was taught to cook them, but Cambodia opened my eyes to a new way of cooking shellfish – stir-frying them. In markets and restaurants I saw clams and mussels being tossed and thrown around woks, and once the shells started to open the flavourings would seep into the meat, making the flesh inside even juicer.

When cooking shellfish, do use the freshest ingredients available and be sure not to eat any seafood whose shells do not open.

Discard any gaping mussels or clams that do not close when the shells are tapped. Place a wok over a medium heat and add the vegetable oil. Sauté the garlic, chilli and shallots for 1 minute, then stir in the chilli paste, palm sugar, oyster sauce, fish sauce and lime juice and sauté for 2 –3 minutes to soften.

Add the mussels and clams and bring the mixture to the boil. If you wish, cover with a lid to help the shellfish steam through. Keep moving the shells around the wok – as they begin to open they will soak up the liquid as well as release their own juices. After 6 minutes, the clams and mussels should be cooked, so remove them from the heat, toss in the basil, season, and serve immediately. Discard any mussels or clams that do not open.

Thai sweetcorn cakes

MAKES 8 CAKES

10g cornflour

60g flour

pinch of salt

2 medium eggs

2 tbsp Thai red curry paste (Soups)

250g sweetcorn kernels

2–3 kaffir lime leaves, finely shredded

handful of chopped coriander

1 tbsp fish sauce

vegetable oil, for shallow frying

Thai sweet chilli sauce (Snacks/appetisers), to serve

The best snacks are the ones that you eat more of than you should. I could be categorised as a ‘snacker’, and when growing up my mum would always tell me off for ruining my appetite. I only tell you this because to me these cakes are one of those snacks; dipped into sweet chilli sauce, one, two or three are never enough. Not only that, they are very easy to make and cook in a matter of minutes.

To prepare the sweetcorn cakes, sift the cornflour, flour and salt into a mixing bowl. Mix well. Add the eggs and curry paste and mix well to form a batter. Add the remaining ingredients (except the oil and chilli sauce) and mix well so that the corn kernels are well coated.

To check the seasoning, fry a little of the mixture in an oiled pan and taste, then adjust the seasoning of the uncooked mixture accordingly, adding a little more salt and/or sugar as necessary.

Heat some oil to the depth of 2–3cm in a deep frying pan or wok and when hot add 2 tablespoons of the mixture. Fry the patties in batches for 1–2 minutes on each side, until golden brown. Drain on a baking tray lined with kitchen paper and keep warm in a low oven while you cook the rest.

When all the sweetcorn cakes are ready, serve immediately with some Thai sweet chilli sauce.

Minced pork omelette

SERVES 2

OMELETTE

4 large eggs

100g minced pork

1 tsp light soy sauce tsp fish sauce

2 tbsp oyster sauce tsp ground white pepper

1 spring onion, finely chopped

4 tbsp groundnut or vegetable oil

THAI CHILLI SAUCE

2 tbsp vegetable oil

4 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced

2 red bird’s eye chillies, deseeded and thinly sliced

handful of coriander, chopped, plus extra to serve

juice of 1 lime

1 tsp fish sauce

1 tsp honey, to taste

Dee, wife to Gong, who helped us arrange our Thailand trip, recommended this Kai jiaw moo as it is their favourite snack. Eggs are commonly used in Thai cuisine, and the Asian influence in this omelette makes it a tasty and filling snack.

It may seem unusual that you add the pork raw, but frying the omelette in the wok over a high heat will cook the mince in minutes; however, you do need to get the oil really hot first. If you prefer, you can subsititute the pork with turkey or chicken.

This omelette is delicious served with a crisp, green, herby salad, but for extra heat offer the Thai chilli sauce alongside.

First make the chilli sauce. Place the oil in a sauté pan set over a medium heat. Add the shallots, garlic and chillies and sauté for 1–2 minutes, to soften. Allow the mixture to cool, then place in a food processor with the remaining ingredients and pulse until smooth.

Set aside.

For the omelette, whisk the eggs together in a large mixing bowl then add the minced pork, soy sauce, fish sauce, oyster sauce, white pepper and spring onion. Mix well. Place a wok or frying pan over a medium heat and add the oil. When the oil is hot enough (add teaspoon of the mixture to the pan and if it sizzles straight away, it’s ready), add the rest of the mixture. Fry for 2–3 minutes until it is golden brown on the bottom. Turn over the omelette and fry for another 2–3 minutes, until the pork is cooked through.

Remove the omelette from the pan immediately and place on a serving plate. Garnish with the coriander leaves and serve with the chilli sauce alongside.

Roti babi

SERVES 4–6 (MAKES 12 SMALL SANDWICHES)

2 leftover large unsliced sandwich loaves or bloomers

4–5 eggs, beaten and seasoned with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

STUFFING

vegetable oil, for frying

8 shallots, peeled and finely diced

6 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

2 tsp ground coriander

2 tsp ground ginger

2 tsp ground nutmeg tsp white pepper

2 tbsp dark sweet soy sauce

2 tbsp water

400g minced pork

Deriving from the Nonya cusine of Malaysia, Roti babi can be literally translated as pig bread (roti meaning bread, babi meaning pig) – it is essentially a stuffed pork mince sandwich. It is best made with bread that has been left out overnight to harden, otherwise the sandwich will be too soggy, but if you can’t do this, slice the bread and place it in a heated oven for a few minutes to dry it out a little.

There are many versions of this recipe, and in Malaysia crab and cabbage are also added, but for me simplicity is key. Don’t be concerned if your mince looks fatty, as you want all the fat to soak into the bread whilst cooking. This is a delicious and different (although admittedly not healthy) approach to the humble sandwich.

Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a wok over a medium heat and add the shallots and garlic. Stir-fry until translucent, taking care not to burn the garlic. Add the ground spices and white pepper and cook until fragrant – the mixture should now also turn a little dry as the oil is absorbed. Add the soy sauce, water, pork and a pinch of salt and mix well. Stir-fry the pork mince for 4–5 minutes until the pork is cooked. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Remove the crusts from the bread and discard. Cut the remaining bread into 5cm thick slices. Taking one slice at a time, cut each one into a 7.5 x 7.5cm square. To create a pocket for the stuffing, lay the trimmed bread flat on a chopping board. Using a small, very sharp knife, make a horizontal slit into the side of the bread, taking care not to go all of the way through. Push about 2 tablespoons of the pork mixture into the pocket and carefully stuff, pressing down the mixture. Repeat this process, using up the remaining bread slices.

Place a frying pan with a thin layer of oil on a medium heat. When the oil is hot, dip one of the stuffed sandwiches into the seasoned egg mixture, making sure the sandwich is evenly coated, then fry it over a low heat until all sides are slightly brown. Remove and drain on kitchen paper while you fry the rest. Cut open and serve immediately.

Grilled squid with tuk meric

SERVES 4

GRILLED SQUID

500–600g whole squid (including tentacles), cleaned

olive oil, to drizzle

sea salt

TUK MERIC

1 tbsp Kampot peppercorns, lightly crushed

1 tbsp sea salt

juice of 4 limes

When squid is cooked to perfection, very little is needed to enhance its natural flavour – except perhaps a Cambodian dipping sauce called Tuk meric.

This sauce celebrates one of Cambodia’s finest ingredients: Kampot pepper. Grown in the region of the same name, this pepper is regarded as one of the best in the world because of its eucalyptus taste and unique heat. Like many other trades in Cambodia, Kampot-pepper production was greatly affected by the war in the 1960s, but since then locals have worked hard to keep the pepper in production. Although limited quantities of this vegetable translate to a higher price, it is worth every penny.

Kampot pepper is available online and is best bought on the vine and when green in colour – the black and red peppercorns are the dried version and have a more intense flavour. Buying the peppercorns whole gives them a longer shelf life. If you can’t get Kampot, use your favourite pepper variety instead.

Wash the squid and pat dry with kitchen paper. Cut off the tentacles and place them in a large bowl. Cut open the bodies and then, using a sharp knife, score them in a criss-cross pattern on the inside. Add these to the bowl with the tentacles, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt.

Light the barbecue or heat the grill. Make the tuk meric dipping sauce before you start cooking the squid. Place all the ingredients in a bowl and mix together to combine. Taste and add more lime juice or pepper, if necessary.

When the barbecue or grill is ready, cook the squid for 30 seconds on each side until opaque and just cooked – do not overcook it or it will become tough and chewy. Cut the pieces in half on the diagonal, if you wish, then transfer to a plate and serve alongside the tuk meric.

Coconut prawns with a sweet chilli sauce

SERVES 4

COCONUT PRAWNS

110g plain flour, plus extra for dusting

pinch of salt tsp cayenne pepper

150ml Thai beer

1 egg, separated

50ml water, chilled

150g desiccated coconut

24 medium-sized raw prawns, peeled and tails on

vegetable oil, for deep-frying

SWEET CHILLI SAUCE

2 tbsp caster sugar

500ml water

1 red long finger chilli, deseeded and finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

1 tbsp fish sauce

1 tbsp rice vinegar tsp cornflour

1–2 tbsp water

Some dishes are naughty but nice – and this is one of them. I was lucky enough to sample some of the best coconut prawns while in the town of Ao Nang in Thailand. On a walk to the main street I passed two women on a large street stall with an array of fried offerings. There was only one item I wanted to try and, for a very reasonable price, six large, fried, coconut prawns were carefully placed in a small plastic bag and the sweet chilli sauce drizzled all over. The desiccated-coconut coating added a delicate sweetness to the overall flavour and extra crunch to the batter. It was hard not to demolish them in seconds.

First make the chilli sauce. Put the sugar and water in a small heavy-based saucepan. Stir to dissolve the sugar, then add the chilli, garlic, fish sauce and vinegar. Bring to the boil and simmer for 8–10 minutes to let the flavours develop and the liquid turn red from the chilli.

After 10 minutes, mix the cornflour with the water in a bowl. Mix well then pour into the chilli sauce. Turn up the heat and allow the sauce to thicken. When it takes on a sticky consistency, remove from the heat, tip the sauce into a bowl and allow to cool.

Place the flour in a bowl with the salt and cayenne pepper. Make a well in the centre and add the beer and egg yolk. Gradually whisk together until you have a smooth batter. Leave to rest for 30 minutes. In a clean bowl, whisk the egg white until it forms stiff peaks. Stir the cold water into the batter and fold in the egg whites.

Heat the oil to 180°C in a large frying pan. (Use a thermometer or test by dropping in a small amount of batter – if it sizzles immediately the oil is ready.) On a tray, spread out the coconut and place bowls with the prawns, flour and batter in a line. Ensure the prawns are dry, but if not, pat them with kitchen paper. Dust the prawns with flour, dip them into the batter, then roll in the coconut. Drop them into the hot oil for 1–2 minutes each side or until golden brown. Remove, drain on kitchen paper, and keep them warm in a low oven while you fry the rest. Serve immediately with the sweet

Beef skewers with a mango and tamarind dipping sauce

MAKES 8–10 SKEWERS

BEEF SKEWERS

2.5cm knob of galangal, peeled and crushed

3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

1 tbsp oyster sauce

2 tbsp dark soy sauce

1 tsp palm sugar

2 tbsp vegetable oil

sea salt and crushed black pepper

500g beef sirloin, cut into 3cm pieces

MANGO AND TAMARIND DIPPING SAUCE

2 tbsp vegetable oil

2 shallots, peeled and finely diced

2.5cm knob of ginger, peeled and finely chopped

1 ripe mango, peeled and diced

1–2 tsp chilli paste

2 tbsp tamarind paste tsp fish sauce

1–2 tsp honey

approx. 100ml water

In Cambodia it was refreshing to go back to basics and cook over charcoal. I love the flavours from an open flame, and beef skewers cooked this way are a particular favourite. The accompanying mango and tamarind dipping sauce has a sweet and sour flavour which is perfect with the juicy, marinated meat.

For extra fragrance and impact, cook the beef on lemongrass skewers. Simply remove the outer woody skin from untrimmed stalks and peel it off to expose the inner stalk.

If using, soak wooden skewers in warm water for at least 30 minutes to prevent them scorching during cooking. Meanwhile, make the marinade. Combine the galangal, garlic, oyster sauce, soy sauce, palm sugar, oil and seasoning in a bowl. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Add the beef to the marinade and combine well to coat the meat. Cover and place in a refrigerator for 1–3 hours.

Next, prepare the dipping sauce. Place a sauté pan or wok over a medium heat and add the oil. Add the shallots and slowly caramelise them – this should take around 4–5 minutes. Add the ginger and mango and cook for a couple of minutes until the mango starts to break down. Add the chilli paste and mix well, allowing the paste to cook for a minute or so. Add the tamarind paste, fish sauce, honey and water and simmer until most of the liquid has evaporated and it has a thick, syrupy consistency. Remove from the pan and pour into a bowl. Allow to cool. Cover and place in the refrigerator until the beef skewers are ready to be cooked.

Place a griddle pan over a medium heat. Thread the beef pieces onto the skewers and cook on the hot griddle for 2–3 minutes on each side, until the meat is tender. Baste the skewers while cooking. When cooked, remove the beef from the pan, set aside and allow to rest for a few minutes. Repeat this process until all the skewers are cooked. Serve alongside the mango and tamarind dipping sauce.

Cambodian-style smoked fish dip

SERVES 6–8

100g white fish, such as cod or whiting

200g undyed smoked haddock

zest and juice of 2 limes

handful of coriander stalks, plus leaves, finely shredded

pinch of black peppercorns

2–3 tbsp vegetable oil

3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped

2cm knob of galangal, peeled and crushed

3 small red chillies, deseeded and chopped

1 tbsp tamarind paste

25g roasted peanuts, lightly crushed

2 tbsp fish sauce

1 tsp prahok (anchovy paste)

1 spring onion, sliced

small handful of Thai basil, finely shredded

Smoked fish is a common ingredient in Cambodia, as it is does not deteriorate in the endless intense summer heat in a country where most homes do not have a fridge. As well as preserving the fish, smoking adds flavour, and when combined in this dip with peanuts and tamarind it creates an unusual balance between salty, sour and spicy.

By the time the French colonial occupation of Cambodia came to an end, the departing Europeans had firmly left their mark on Cambodian cuisine. This dip is one such example of where the two cuisines meet at a crossroads. The idea is predominantly French, yet the ingredients remain distinctly Cambodian. Like any dip, it is best served with a crusty French baguette or some fresh crudités.

Place all the fish in a pan of simmering water with the lime zest, coriander stalks and peppercorns and poach for 4–5 minutes until cooked through. Remove from the water using a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen paper and allow to cool.

In a frying pan, heat the oil and sauté the garlic, shallots, galangal and chillies for 3–4 minutes until all are softened. Remove from the pan and place in a mixing bowl. Flake the fish into the bowl, discarding the skin, add the remaining ingredients and mix well. Alternatively, transfer the mixture to a food processor and blend together for a smooth texture.

Taste and season if necessary, remembering that little salt should be required because of the fish ingredients. Serve with fresh, raw vegetables, such as green beans, cucumber and carrots.

Curry puffs

MAKES 18–20

DOUGH

225g plain flour, plus extra for dusting

pinch of salt

60g melted butter

warm water

FILLING

2 tbsp vegetable oil

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

2cm knob of ginger, peeled and grated

1 small red onion, peeled and finely chopped

1 small sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1cm dice, then blanched

1 small potato, peeled and cut into 1cm dice, then blanched

1 tbsp curry powder

pinch of ground cumin

pinch of chilli powder tsp sea salt tsp ground white pepper

200ml vegetable stock

small handful of coriander, finely chopped

2 egg yolks, to finish

My first experience of these curry puffs, or Kari paps, was at a Malaysian version of a service station, where you could help yourself to as many as you wanted and then confess to how many you had eaten when the time came to pay! I admitted to having eaten no less than two and definitely no more than five. They were incredibly moreish.

I would describe this snack as a hybrid; the outside of a Cornish pasty with the filling of a samosa. For all those I spoke to, curry puffs evoked fond childhood memories of eagerly awaiting the day when batches were cooked, and the drifting smell from the oven as the dough turned golden brown and the filling softened and spiced in the pockets. This is a great snack for all the family.

To make the dough, combine the flour and salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and add the melted butter and 5 tablespoons of warm water. Mix with a round-bladed knife to form a dough, adding a little more water if the mixture seems too dry. Tip onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 5–10 minutes to a smooth dough. Cover with cling film and leave to rest in a cool place for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the filling. Add the oil to the wok and heat through, stir-fry the garlic and ginger for about 1 minute, until fragrant. Add the onion and fry for 2–3 minutes, until slightly caramelised. Add both types of potato, curry powder, remaining spices and seasoning and cook for 2–3 minutes, so the spices cook through. Pour in the stock and simmer gently for 6–8 minutes or until the liquid has reduced. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. When completely cool, add the coriander. Adjust the seasoning if necessary.

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. On a floured work surface, roll out the dough into a log 5–6cm thick. Cut into 1cm slices and roll each log into a small, round pasty. Fill each with 1 tablespoon of filling. Brush the pasty edges with egg yolk and fold over the filling. Press the sides together with a fork to seal. Arrange the puffs on a greased baking sheet, brush with more egg yolk and bake for 25–30 minutes. These are best served warm.

Vietnamese fresh spring rolls

MAKES 12

PORK

2 tbsp sesame oil

1 tsp Chinese five-spice

salt and freshly ground black pepper

300g pork tenderloin fillet, sinew removed and finely sliced

vegetable oil, for frying

DRESSING

juice of 1 lime

1 tsp fish sauce

1 tsp rice vinegar

1 tsp caster sugar

SPRING ROLL

1 baby gem lettuce, washed, core removed and shredded

handful of coriander leaves, torn

12 sheets of rice paper, 16cm in diameter

small handful of Thai basil, picked

small handful of saw leaf or mint leaves, picked

small handful of coriander leaves, picked

200g cooked rice vermicelli noodles

12 chive flowers

12 cooked prawns, peeled, de-veined and cut in half lengthways

DIPPING SAUCE

1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped

1 red Thai chilli, finely chopped

3 tbsp hoisin sauce

2 tbsp fish sauce

1 tbsp caster sugar

2 tbsp crunchy peanut butter

4–6 tbsp coconut milk

1 tbsp tamarind paste

100–150ml water

1 tbsp dark soy sauce

In my opinion, the Nem cuon mua xuan, or fresh spring roll, sums up Vietnamese food: fresh, healthy, textural and balanced in flavour. On my travels I discovered that Vietnamese chefs can study for months learning how to make these rolls, being taught the different filling and dipping sauce combinations. Like many dishes in Vietnam, the ingredients in spring rolls vary from region to region and throughout the seasons. The chefs that I worked with in Hanoi described these as ‘summer spring rolls’.

On my last night in Vietnam I served these spring rolls as the first of seven courses. They work perfectly as an appetiser and look pretty impressive, too. For the best results you need to use the freshest ingredients. For extra crunch I have used baby gem lettuce, however, follow your palate to chop and change the ingredients in the rolls, such as using crab instead of the prawns, changing the pork for mushrooms or, if you don’t like rice noodles, add more lettuce and cucumber. The hoisin peanut dipping sauce is one of the most commonly served accompaniments to these rolls.

For the pork, mix together the sesame oil, five-spice and salt and pepper in a bowl. Add the pork strips and toss together to coat. Heat a little vegetable oil in a frying pan and stir-fry the pork strips for 2–3 minutes, until cooked through. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

To make the dressing, whisk together all the ingredients in a large bowl to combine. Add the shredded baby gem and coriander leaves and coat well in the dressing.

Fill a large bowl with warm water and, one at a time, quickly dip in each sheet of rice paper, passing them through but not soaking them. Drain them flat on a clean, damp cloth. Do not over-soak or they will fall apart and tear when being rolled.

To make the dipping sauce, gently fry the garlic and chilli in a little oil in a frying pan for 2 minutes until softened. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer for 6–8 minutes until reduced by half, adding extra water if needed to loosen the sauce.

To make the rolls, lay all your ingredients in an assembly line. Take one rice paper sheet and lay it flat on a clean surface. Place the herbs on top and gently create a small pile of rice noodles on top (the pile should be long and narrow). Fold over two sides of the rice paper to enclose the filling and roll over once. Place the chive flower alongside the rolled up section. Take one strip of pork and two halves of prawn and lay them neatly alongside the chive flower – they should be positioned tightly against the roll. Slowly roll once again. Tuck the edge of the rice paper into the filling. To seal the roll, lightly brush the rice paper with warm water. (Make sure the filling is compact.) The prawn and spring onion should be visible through the rice paper. Repeat the process with the remaining sheets of rice paper. Cover with cling film to stop the rolls drying out.

Serve with the dipping sauce.

Loh bak

MAKES APPROXIMATELY 8–10 PORK ROLLS

500g lean pork fillet, cut into strips

75g water chestnuts, skinned and finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped

1 small turnip, peeled and finely chopped

1 small carrot, peeled and finely chopped

4 tbsp oyster sauce

1 tbsp dark soy sauce tsp ground white pepper

1 tbsp sugar

2 tsp Chinese five-spice powder

1 egg, beaten

8–10 bean curd sheets, cut into 15 x 20cm rectangles

1 tsp cornflour mixed with 1 tbsp cold water

vegetable oil, for deep-frying

sliced cucumber, to serve

Loh bak is the Malay version of a sausage; lean pork is marinated in a mixture of ingredients, including Chinese five-spice, water chestnuts and carrots, then encased in a bean-curd skin. This dish originated from Eastern China, where it was known as Ngoh hiang, but as Nonya cuisine evolved, this dish soon found itself served at the meals of festival celebrations such as Chinese New Year. To me this dish is a snack, but in Malaysia many eat this as a main meal.

The bean-curd skins create a delicious crunchy exterior and can be found at any good Chinese supermarket. An easy but slightly different substitute for bean-curd skins would be filo pastry – just layer the filo with melted butter in between and place the pork mixture in the middle. Serve with a chilli sauce, as they do in Malaysia (Snacks/appetisers).

Place the pork in a large mixing bowl and add all the other ingredients except the bean-curd sheets, cornflour, oil and cucumber. Cover with cling film and leave to marinate for 1 hour.

Divide the mixture between the bean curd rectangles, fold in the two short sides and roll from the long sides, making sure you roll tightly. Seal the skins with the cornflour mixture.

Heat the oil in a deep pan or wok for deep-frying. When it is hot enough, fry the seasoned meat rolls for 4–5 minutes until golden brown and cooked through. Remove the rolls with a slotted spoon and drain to remove any excess oil.

Slice the loh bak and serve with sliced cucumber and sweet chilli sauce (Snacks/appetisers).

Orange and ginger caramelised chicken wings

SERVES 4

vegetable oil, for cooking

6–8 shallots, peeled and sliced

4 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced

2 lemongrass stalks, trimmed and bashed

5cm knob of fresh ginger, peeled and julienned

zest and juice of 2 oranges

150g granulated sugar

160ml water

2 tbsp fish sauce

1kg chicken wings

sea salt and crushed black pepper

Not only are chicken wings packed with flavour, because the meat cooks on the bone, but they are also great value for money. Chicken wings are the ultimate snack and I think they should only be eaten with fingers – with a napkin on standby.

The base of this dish is a caramel sauce, which is incredibly easy to prepare. Such sauces are the cornerstone of Vietnamese cuisine and, surprisingly, are mainly used in savoury dishes. For this recipe the caramel sauce is a great cheat to help the chicken wings take on a dark golden-brown colour; the orange adds a bitter sweetness and the ginger a little spicy kick.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Heat the oil in a pan and add the shallots, garlic, lemongrass, ginger and orange zest and cook for 2–3 minutes, until the ingredients have softened. Add the sugar, water, orange juice and fish sauce and allow to dissolve. Cook until the mixture has reduced and thickened. This should take 3–4 minutes and the sauce should start turning syrupy. Remove from the heat and set aside.

To prepare the chicken, place a large frying pan over a high heat and add 3–4 tablespoons of vegetable oil. Season the chicken, then, in batches, sear the pieces for 3 minutes, until browned. Add the chicken wings to an ovenproof dish and pour over the caramel sauce, mixing well to coat. Cook in the oven for 40–45 minutes until golden brown and sticky. Halfway through cooking, baste the chicken wings.

Remove the chicken wings from the oven, season with sea salt and crushed black pepper and serve with the sauce spooned over.

Chicken satay with peanut sauce

SERVES 4–6 (MAKES APPROX. 14–16 SKEWERS)

SATAY

500g chicken thighs, skinned and deboned

3 shallots, peeled and coarsely chopped

2 garlic cloves, peeled and coarsely chopped

3cm knob of galangal, peeled and grated

2 lemongrass stalks, trimmed and white part finely chopped

1cm knob of turmeric root, peeled, or 1 tsp ground turmeric

1 tbsp ground coriander

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp sea salt

1 tsp palm sugar or dark brown sugar

pinch of freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp fish sauce chilli, deseeded and chopped

4 tbsp peanut oil

vegetable or groundnut oil, for brushing

MALAYSIAN PEANUT SAUCE

2 tbsp vegetable oil

1 shallot, peeled and finely diced

1 red chilli (deseeded, if you prefer)

1 tbsp crushed garlic

1 tbsp crushed ginger

4 tbsp crunchy peanut butter

1 tsp tamarind paste

1 tsp dark sweet soy sauce

100ml coconut cream

50ml water

Originally an Indonesian dish, satay is now cooked all over Asia. Each Southeast Asian country has its own adaptation, but for me the Malay version is one of the best.

One lunchtime, as I parked my car in Penang, I discovered an amazing satay stall. Drifting over was the smell of the chicken sizzling on the hot coals, the distinctive marinade with its spices being charred. In the corner next to the grill, a sizeable tub of peanut sauce was eagerly waiting to be dipped into. I was left with little choice but to tuck in – and it didn’t disappoint. The ladies on the stall told me that satay used to be served at special occasions, but now it’s an everyday food.

To achieve the best flavour you should only use meat off the bone. Marinating is key; the meat needs to be left for at least 12 hours for a more developed flavour. I would recommend barbecuing the skewers to get that smoky flavour, but you can also use a grill or a griddle pan. You can substitute the chicken for pork, beef or even prawns.

Slice the chicken into thin strips. Grind together the shallots, garlic, galangal, lemongrass, turmeric and the remaining spices in a food processor or a pestle and mortar until you have a rough paste. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt, sugar and pepper. Add the fish sauce and chilli and combine. Mix the paste with the peanut oil and add to the chicken, tossing to coat well. Cover with cling film and leave to marinate in the fridge overnight, to allow all the various flavours to develop.

Soak 16 bamboo skewers (approximately 15cm long) in warm water (this will prevent them scorching) half an hour before you are ready to cook the chicken. When you are ready, thread the marinated chicken onto the skewers until they are three-quarters full, but be careful not to overcrowd each skewer.

Brush the griddle pan with oil. Allow the griddle pan to get very hot and, when ready, gently lay the satay sticks onto it. Baste the chicken with oil occasionally during cooking. Grill the chicken until it has cooked through and has begun to pick up a few crispy brown-black spots, about 5–7 minutes, turning frequently. If you are cooking the satay sticks on the barbecue the time may vary depending on how hot the coals are.

For the satay sauce, place a saucepan over a medium heat. Add the oil followed by the shallot, chilli, garlic and ginger. Sauté for 2–3 minutes until the shallots are softened and the oil begins to take on the red colour of the chilli. Add in the peanut butter and stir, breaking it down. It should start to melt. Now add the tamarind paste and dark soy sauce and stir well. Pour the coconut cream and water into the saucepan and stir for 3–4 minutes, until the peanut butter has been incorporated into the satay sauce. Simmer the mixture on a low heat for around 1–2 minutes, then turn off the heat. Serve warm with the chicken skewers.

Cambodian aubergine and mushroom dip

SERVES 4–6

2 large aubergines

10g dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked in hot water

2 tbsp vegetable oil

2 shallots, peeled and sliced

2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

1 red chilli, thinly sliced (deseeded, if you prefer)

150g fresh mixed mushrooms

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp fish sauce

1 tbsp palm sugar

1 tbsp tamarind paste handful of Thai basil leaves, shredded

crusty French baguette or chopped raw vegetables, to serve

Raw aubergines and mushrooms share one characteristic, in that their flesh is like a sponge and so beautifully absorbs other flavours during cooking. Here the Cambodian flavours of tamarind, Thai basil, garlic and chilli mesh together to create a delicious and slightly unusual dip.

There are a wide variety of aubergines and mushrooms available, but for this I would recommend using large aubergines, because these will provide the most flesh. For the mixed mushrooms, choose those with a deep woody flavour, such as oyster, chestnut and crimini.

Place the aubergines on an open gas flame and chargrill them for 25–30 minutes, turning frequently, until charred and softened.

Allow the dried mushrooms to sit in enough hot water to cover them for 20 minutes. When the mushrooms have doubled in size, drain them, reserving the liquid as you will need this later.

Heat some oil in a wide frying pan over a high heat and add the shallots, garlic and chilli and sauté for 2–3 minutes to soften. Add all the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper and sauté over a high heat until golden brown and any moisture coming out of the mushrooms has been cooked off. Add the fish sauce, palm sugar and tamarind paste and fry with the other ingredients for 1 minute.

Place the mushroom mixture into a food processor. Scrape out the flesh from the aubergines and add to the processor. If necessary, add a splash of the dried mushroom soaking liquid and pulse until combined, but do not over-process as the dip should still have some texture.

Place the dip in a bowl and garnish with some shredded Thai basil leaves and serve with some crusty bread or chopped raw vegetables.

Oysters with a Thai dipping sauce

SERVES 4

rock salt and fresh seaweed, to serve (optional)

12 oysters, shucked and lower shells saved

THAI DIPPING SAUCE

3 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped

1 shallot, peeled and roughly chopped

handful of coriander stalks and leaves, roughly chopped

1 Thai red chilli, roughly chopped (deseeded, if you prefer)

1 tbsp sugar

1 tbsp light soy sauce

1 tsp fish sauce

juice of 2 limes

I discovered this dish in the Southern Thai region of Khlong Thom while being taken oyster diving by a local fisherman, Sard. Such was Sard’s success at catching oysters that he was able to not only support his family in this way, but also his brother’s and sister’s family too.

In the Western world oysters are considered a delicacy, but Sard and his family dined every day on some of the largest oysters I have ever seen. Children as young as 4 years old were tucking in, spooning this sauce on top and swallowing them whole. It was amazing to see.

This dipping sauce provides a refreshing change alongside oysters, without overpowering their delicate and unique flavour. However, if you don’t like your oysters raw, this sauce is ideal for baking them with; simply place the oysters in their shells in a hot oven (200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6), spoon over the sauce and bake for 10–15 minutes or until cooked. Typically this dish is served with extra slices of garlic and chilli.

If you wish you can spread a thick layer of rock salt on one or two serving platters and scatter over the seaweed on which to sit the oysters in their half shells.

In a bowl, mix together the garlic, shallot, coriander and chilli for the dipping sauce. Stir well. Add the sugar, soy sauce, fish sauce and lime juice to the mixture and mix well.

When ready to serve, spoon half the sauce over the oysters and put the rest into a small bowl to serve alongside.

Gordon’s Great Escape Southeast Asia: 100 of my favourite Southeast Asian recipes

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