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Conchiglie with meaty tomato ragù

This is my version of a pasta bolognese. I prefer to use conchiglie, as their shell shape holds more of the flavourful sauce than spaghetti does. Meat ragù freezes well and makes an ideal prepare-ahead supper.

SERVES 4

Ragù:

3 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 celery stalk, finely chopped

1 carrot, finely chopped

stripped leaves from a sprig of thyme

1 tbsp chopped rosemary

500g lean beef mince

150ml dry white wine

400g tin chopped tomatoes in juice

300ml chicken stock (see page 258) or water

pinch of caster sugar (optional)

Pasta:

400g dried conchiglie

large handful of flat-leaf parsley and oregano, chopped

parmesan, to serve

Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a large heavy-based pan until hot. Add the onion and some seasoning. Fry over medium heat, stirring frequently, for 6-8 minutes until the onion begins to soften. Tip in the garlic, celery, carrot and herbs. Sauté briefly over high heat for a few minutes, until the vegetables are lightly golden.

Add the remaining oil and the beef mince. Stir well, pressing down on the mince to break it up. Season again and continue to stir over high heat until the mince is no longer red. Pour in the wine and let it boil vigorously until almost all reduced and the pan is quite dry.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the tomatoes and stock. Stir well to mix. When the liquid in the pan begins to boil, turn the heat to the lowest setting and partially cover the pan. Cook gently for 2½-3 hours, stirring occasionally. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding a pinch of sugar, if necessary, to balance the acidity of the tomatoes.

Fifteen minutes before you are ready to serve, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Cook the pasta according to packet instructions until al dente. As soon as the pasta is ready, drain it off and immediately add to the hot ragù, stirring in the chopped herbs as well. Divide among warm plates and serve with a generous grating of black pepper and parmesan.