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Central Arizona
It’s easy—you fly into Phoenix, drive north, and in 4 or 5 hours you’re at the Grand Canyon. Nothing to see in between, right?
Between Phoenix and the Grand Canyon lies one of the most beautiful landscapes on earth, the red-rock country of Sedona and Oak Creek Canyon. It’s one of those places where, when you see it for the first time, it’s almost as if a tympani beats a fanfare. That’s reason enough to allot some extra time on the trip to the Grand Canyon.
But there’s more. Central Arizona also has the former territorial capital of Prescott, historic sites, ancient Indian ruins, an old mining town turned artists’ community in Jerome, and even a few good old-fashioned dude ranches (and some recently-in-the-news rehabilitation clinics) out Wickenburg way. Lately, central Arizona has even begun to become somewhat of a wine region.
People have been drawn here for hundreds of years. The Hohokam nation farmed the fertile Verde Valley as long ago as a.d. 600, followed later by the Sinagua. By the time the first white settlers arrived in the 1860s, Apache and Yavapai tribes inhabited the area, and the U.S. Army established Fort Verde, now in the town of Camp Verde, in 1871, beginning decades of bloodshed and suppression of the native peoples. The mining industry brought prosperity to the region—that is, until the mines gave out, leaving ghost towns in their wake. Layers of history are piled deep in this stunning landscape.
Wickenburg
53 miles NW of Phoenix; 61 miles S of Prescott; 128 miles SE of Kingman
Known a half-century ago as the dude-ranch capital of the world, Wickenburg still has a handful of dude (or guest) ranches, ranging from rustic to luxurious, where you can ride horses and throw a horseshoe or two. A growing sprawl—miles and miles of nice houses are now visible on the road from Phoenix—surrounds a small town with an old-time downtown and a few cowboy activities still to be seen. (Wickenburg calls itself the team roping capital of the world—see box, p. 168.) It’s also home to a number of rehab centers, including the Meadows, where a number of scandal-shamed celebrities have found themselves in recent years.
Wickenburg was founded in 1863 by Henry Wickenburg, a Prussian prospector who came to the desert in search of riches. He hit pay dirt just south of the town that now bears his name, and his Vulture Mine eventually became the most profitable gold and silver mine in Arizona. Although the mine closed in 1942, it is now operated as a minor tourist attraction.
Essentials
Arriving
From Phoenix, drive north on I-17, then west on Ariz. 74, continuing west on U.S. 60, or take U.S. 60 northwest from downtown, passing through the retirement communities of Sun City and Surprise. Either way, it’s about an hour’s drive. If you’re coming from the west, take U.S. 60 northeast from I-10. U.S. 93 comes down from I-40 in northwestern Arizona.
Visitor Information
The Wickenburg Chamber of Commerce, 216 N. Frontier St. (www.outwickenburgway.com; 928/684-0977 or 928/684-5479) is open Monday through Friday 9am to 5pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am to 2pm.
Special Events
Gold Rush Days, held on the second full weekend in February for more than 70 years, is Wickenburg’s biggest party; events include gold panning, a rodeo, and shootouts in the streets. On the second full weekend in November, the Bluegrass Festival features fiddle and banjo contests. On the first weekend in December, Wickenburg’s annual Cowboy Poetry Gathering features lots of poetry and music.
Exploring Wickenburg
While Wickenburg’s main attractions remain the guest ranches outside of town, a walk around downtown also provides a glimpse of the Old West. Most of the buildings here were built between 1890 and the 1920s (although a few are older), although not all of them look their age.
Frontier Street is preserved as it looked in the early 1900s. The covered sidewalks and false fronts are characteristic of frontier architecture; the false fronts often disguised older adobe buildings that were considered “uncivilized” by settlers from back east. Stop by the old Santa Fe train station on Frontier Street, now the Wickenburg Chamber of Commerce (see above), to pick up a map that tells the history of the town’s buildings. The brick post office, almost across the street from the train station, once had a ride-up window providing service to people on horseback. The Garcia Little Red Schoolhouse, 245 N. Tegner St. (www.wco.org; 928/684-7473), open Tuesday through Saturday 10am to 2pm, is another of the town’s old-timey sights.
Two of the town’s most unusual attractions aren’t buildings at all. The Jail Tree, behind the convenience store at the corner of Wickenburg Way and Tegner Street, is an old mesquite tree that served as the local hoosegow. Outlaws were simply chained to the tree. Their families would often come to visit and have a picnic in the tree’s shade. Then there’s the Wishing Well, standing beside the bridge over the Hassayampa. Legend has it that anyone who drinks from the Hassayampa River will never tell the truth again. How the well adjacent to the river became a wishing well is unclear.
Wickenburg cherishes its cowboy heritage, with guest ranches, cowboy poetry readings, and its status as “team roping capital of the world.”
Desert Caballeros Western Museum MUSEUM Inside this museum, an outstanding collection of Western art depicts life on the range, including works by Albert Bierstadt, Thomas Moran, Charles Russell, Frederic Remington, Maynard Dixon, and other members of the Cowboy Artists of America. The impressive “Spirit of the Cowboy” collection of historical cowboy gear alone makes this museum worth a stop.
21 N. Frontier St. www.westernmuseum.org. 928/684-2272. $12 adults, $10 seniors, free for ages 17 and under. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun noon–4pm. Closed Mon June–Aug and on major holidays.
Hassayampa River Preserve NATURE PRESERVE At one time, the Arizona desert was laced with rivers that flowed for most, if not all, of the year. In the past century, however, these rivers, and the riparian forests they once supported, have disappeared at an alarming rate as rivers are dammed and wells lower the water tables. Riparian areas support trees and plants that require more water than is usually available in the desert, and this lush growth provides food and shelter for hundreds of species of birds, mammals, and reptiles. Today, the riparian cottonwood-willow forests of the desert Southwest are considered the country’s most endangered forest type. The Nature Conservancy, a nonprofit organization dedicated to purchasing and preserving threatened habitats, and the Maricopa County Parks Department work together to manage the Hassayampa River Preserve. It’s an important bird-watching site—280 species of birds have been spotted here. Nature trails lead along the river beneath cottonwoods and willows, and past spring-fed Palm Lake. On-site are a visitor center and bookshop. On the Maricopa County parks website, www.maricopacountyparks.net, under “programs and events” you can find a schedule of nature walks and other activities at this preserve; private guided tours are available as well.
| The Team Roping Capital of the World |
Team roping is when two cowpokes on horses chase a calf across an arena and get points for how fast they immobilize it. Wickenburg’s large rodeo facility, the Everett Bowman Rodeo Grounds, 935 Constellation Rd. (www.ci.wickenburg.az.us/69/Rodeo-Grounds), is a mile or two northeast of the town center; another popular roping venue, Rancho Rio, is north of downtown at 1325 N. Tegner St. (ranchorioaz.com). From November through April there are team roping events there and at several other venues. For an event calendar, go to outwickenburgway.com or call the Chamber of Commerce at 928/684-0977.
49614 N. U.S. 60 (milepost 114, 3 mi SE of Wickenburg). www.maricopacountyparks.net. 928/684-2772. $5, free for kids 12 and under. Oct–Apr Wed–Sun 8am–5pm; May–Oct Wed–Sun 7am–4pm. Closed Mon–Tues. Closed Thanksgiving, day after Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve, and New Year’s Day.
The Vulture Mine HISTORIC SITE Lying at the base of Vulture Peak (the most visible natural landmark in the Wickenburg area, about 12 miles south of the town proper), the Vulture Mine was first staked by Henry Wickenburg in 1863, fueling the small gold rush that helped populate this part of the Arizona desert. Today, the Vulture Mine feels like a ghost town. You can’t go down into the old mine itself, but you can wander around the aboveground shacks and mine structures, either on tours or, in summer, by yourself. It’s interesting for Western history buffs, and fun for kids.
36610 N. 355 Ave. (12 mi S of U.S. 60 W via Vulture Mine Rd.). www.vultureminetours. $15; free for kids under 6. Cash only. Check website for hours, which vary. No guided tours in summer. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas.
Outdoor Activities
If you’d rather explore the desert backcountry by jeep than on horseback, call B.C. Jeep Tours (www.bcjeeptours.com; 928/684-7901), which charges $75 per person with a two-person minimum. If you’ve got time for only one jeep tour on your Arizona vacation, however, make it in Sedona.
Los Caballeros Golf Club , 1551 S. Vulture Mine Rd. (www.loscaballerosgolf.com; 928/684-2704) has been rated one of the best courses in the state. Greens fees range $85 to $125 in the cooler months.
Southwest of town at the end of Vulture Mine Rd. (off U.S. 60), hikers can hit the trails around Vulture Peak, which include a steep but rewarding climb best done in the cooler months. The views from up top (or even just the saddle near the top) are well worth the effort. There are sometimes spectacular wildflower displays here in the spring.
Where to Stay in Wickenburg
Flying E Ranch This is a working cattle ranch with 20,000 high, wide, and handsome acres for you and the cattle to roam. In business since 1946, the Flying E attracts plenty of repeat business; families find it a particularly appealing place. Accommodations vary in size, but all have Western-style furnishings and either twin or king-size beds. Three family-style meals are served in the wood-paneled dining room; there’s no bar (you’ll need to bring your own liquor). Guests like to gather by the fireplace in the main lodge’s spacious lounge. Breakfast cookouts, lunch rides, hayrides, and evening chuck-wagon dinners are organized. Horseback riding costs an additional $40 to $60 per person per day.
2801 W. Wickenburg Way (4 mi W of town on U.S. 60). www.flyingeranch.com. 928/684-2690. 17 units. $360 double, $720 4-person cabin. Rates include all meals. Closed May–Oct. Amenities: Dining room; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; sauna; tennis court; free Wi-Fi.
Kay El Bar Guest Ranch This is the smallest and oldest of the Wickenburg guest ranches, and its adobe buildings, built between 1914 and 1925, are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The well-maintained ranch is quintessentially Wild West in style—the lobby is Westerned up to within an inch of its life—and the setting, on the shady banks of the Hassayampa River (usually dry), is surprisingly lush compared with the arid surrounding landscape. While the Homestead House and the Casa Grande are the most spacious, smaller rooms in the adobe main lodge have original Monterey-style furnishings and other classic 1950s dude-ranch decor. I like this place because it’s so small you feel like you’re on a friend’s ranch. Guests can go out horseback riding twice a day, except on Sunday when there’s a long morning ride followed by lunch on a hilltop. There are also cookouts, cowboy poetry nights, and other Western activities.
2655 S. Kay El Bar Rd. (take S. Rincon Rd. N from U.S. 93). www.kayelbar.com. 928/684-7593. 11 units. $55–$610 double; $1,194 cottage (sleeps 4). Rates include all meals and horseback riding. 2- to 4-night minimum stay. Closed May–mid-Oct. Amenities: Dining room; lounge; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool.
Rancho de los Caballeros A few miles south of town on Vulture Mine Road, this quiet, sprawling resort-cum-dude-ranch offers lots of opportunity for horseback riding, golf on a ravishingly beautiful adjoining golf course, or pampering treatments in the classy spa. There’s also trap and skeet shooting and guided nature walks. The main lodge, with its flagstone floor, copper fireplace, and colorfully painted furniture, has a very southwestern feel. Peace and quiet are the keynotes of a visit here. Guest rooms have handcrafted furnishings, exposed-beam ceilings, Indian rugs, and, in some, tile floors and fireplaces. Most have small kitchens, which you don’t need because the food here, created and prepared by real chefs, is so good; the layouts for breakfast and lunch—with custom omelet-making and meat-carving tables and the like—seem to go on forever. And the pies! (The biggest complaint you hear here is that there’s too much food.) Dinner, which is served formally, with proper attire required, is even better.
| En Route to Prescott |
Between Wickenburg and Prescott, as Ariz. 89 climbs out of the desert, the town of Yarnell lies at the top of a steep stretch of road. The landscape around Yarnell is a jumble of weather-worn granite boulders, giving the town a unique look; in recent years it’s become a favored getaway for Phoenix types. Several crafts and antiques shops here are worth a stop. However, the town’s main claim to fame is the Shrine of St. Joseph of the Mountains ( 928/778-5229), a beautiful path set on the side of the mountain with carved stone sculptures marking the Stations of the Cross. Watch for the sign to the shrine off Ariz. 89 on the north end of town.
1551 S. Vulture Mine Rd. (S off U.S. 60 west of town). www.ranchodeloscaballeros.com. 800/684-5030 or 928/684-5484. 79 units. $200–$400 double. 15% gratuity charge. Rates include all meals. Closed May–Nov. Amenities: Dining room; lounge; children’s programs; concierge; 18-hole golf course; pool; full-service spa; 4 tennis courts; free Wi-Fi.
Where to Eat in Wickenburg
If you’ll be staying at a guest ranch, all your meals will be provided. In town, it’s almost obligatory to stop in at the Rancho Bar 7, 111 E. Wickenburg Way (www.ranchobar7.com; 928/684-2492), which has a big ol’ bar, a decent menu, and cowboy statues outside. Across the street, there’s a friendly sports bar, the Mecca, 163 E. Wickenburg Way ( 928/684-35270), with a big patio and decent bar food. Want something homier? Nana’s Sandwich Shop, 48 N. Tegner St. ( 928/684-5539) is just around the corner.
Prescott
100 miles N of Phoenix; 66 miles SW of Sedona; 87 miles SW of Flagstaff
Prescott is an Arizona anomaly, a unique mixture of mountain town and western town. It doesn’t seem like the Southwest at all. With its stately courthouse on a tree-shaded square, two-story 19th-century buildings fronting most of it, and wooded mountains surrounding the town, Prescott still has the air of the rugged territorial capital it once was. The obligatory stroll around Courthouse Plaza is a delight, passing restored saloons, hotels and souvenir and antique shops—and, these days, decent cafes and restaurants, too. Add to this several small museums, a couple of historic hotels, the strange and beautiful landscape of the Granite Dells, and nearby Prescott National Forest, and you have a town that appeals to a wide range of visitors.
Prescott’s pioneer history dates from 1863, when the Walker party discovered gold in the mountains of central Arizona. Soon miners were flocking to the area to seek their own fortunes. A year later, Arizona became a U.S. territory, and the new town of Prescott, located right in the center of Arizona, was made the territorial capital. It would eventually lose that title to Tucson and then to Phoenix, but for part of the late 19th century, Prescott was the most important city in Arizona. Wealthy merchants and legislators transformed this pioneer outpost into a beautiful town filled with stately Victorian homes.
Today Prescott has become an upscale retirement community, with the housing prices to prove it. In summer, Prescott is a popular weekend getaway for Phoenicians; it is usually 20° cooler here than in Phoenix (and most winters even see some snow).
Essentials
Arriving
Prescott lies at the junction of Ariz. 89 and Ariz. 69. If you’re coming from Phoenix, take the Cordes Junction exit (exit 262) from I-17 onto Ariz. 69 and drive northwest for 25 miles (traffic is sometimes slow-going). The trip from Phoenix takes a little under 2 hours. From Flagstaff, the most direct route is I-17 to Ariz. 169 to Ariz. 69; there’s also a more picturesque but significantly slower route, Ariz. 89A, through Sedona and Cottonwood.
From Sky Harbor Airport, Arizona Shuttle (www.arizonashuttle.com; 520/795-6771) provides service to Prescott for $39 one-way.
Visitor Information
The Prescott Chamber of Commerce is at 117 W. Goodwin St. (www.visit-prescott.com; 800/266-7534 or 928/445-2000), on the south side of Courthouse Plaza. It’s open Monday through Friday 9am to 5pm, and Saturday and Sunday 10am to 2pm.
City Layout
Prescott Valley has grown explosively; the stretch of Ariz. 69 from I-17 is now lined with shopping malls and housing (there’s even a Trader Joe’s!). Prescott’s main drag is Gurley Street, which ultimately forms the north side of Courthouse Plaza. Ariz. 89, heading north from Wickenburg, eventually becomes Montezuma Street, also known as Whiskey Row, which forms the west side of the plaza.
Special Events
In early June, Territorial Days features special art exhibits, performances, tournaments, races, and lots of food and free entertainment. Prescott’s biggest annual event is the World’s Oldest Rodeo (www.worldsoldestrodeo.com; 928/445-3103), generally held during the week leading up to the Fourth of July. In mid-July, the Sharlot Hall Museum (see below) hosts the Prescott Indian Art Market.
The stately Yavapai County Courthouse in Prescott recalls the city’s heyday as capital of the Arizona territory.
Exploring Prescott
A walk around Courthouse Plaza should be your first introduction to Prescott. The stately old courthouse in the middle of the tree-shaded plaza sets the tone for the whole town. If it seems far too large for a small regional town, it is—it was built in the days when Prescott was capital of the Arizona territory. Under the big shade trees, you’ll see several bronze statues, including a striking one dedicated to Teddy Roosevelt’s Rough Riders, a group of Spanish-American War volunteers who headed off from the plaza in 1898. I really like the historical timeline painted into one of the walks.
Surrounding the courthouse and extending north for a block or so is Prescott’s historic business district. Stroll around admiring the brick buildings, and you’ll realize that Prescott was once a very important place. On Montezuma Street facing the plaza is The Palace, an old-time saloon where parts of the Steve McQueen film Junior Bonner were filmed, as a giant poster for the movie on the wall attests. Looking for antiques? Cortez Street is lined with almost a dozen big antique stores. Duck into an old saloon or the lobby of one of the historic hotels, and you’ll understand that the town was also part of the Wild West.
Fort Whipple Museum MUSEUM North of town off Ariz. 89, on the grounds of what is now a Veterans Affairs hospital, this small museum tells the history of Fort Whipple, which was active from 1863 to 1922. You can learn about activities of the Buffalo Soldiers in the state; there’s even a cameo from legendary NY Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia. Many stately officers’ homes still stand on the grounds. The museum is overseen by the Sharlot Hall Museum (see below).
Veterans Affairs campus, Bldg. 11, 500 N. Ariz. 89. 928/445-3122. Free admission. Thurs–Sat 10am–4pm. Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.
Phippen Museum MUSEUM Named after the first president of the prestigious Cowboy Artists of America organization, the Phippen exhibits works by both established Western artists and newcomers. Also on display are artifacts and photos that help place the artwork in the context of the region’s history. The long-running Western Art Show & Sale is held each year over Memorial Day weekend, including Monday.
4701 Ariz. 89 N. www.phippenartmuseum.org. 928/778-1385. $7 adults, $5 students, free for kids 12 and under. Tues–Sat 10am–4pm; Sun 1–4pm.
Sharlot Hall Museum MUSEUM Two blocks west of Courthouse Plaza, this fascinating museum of Arizona and frontier history opened in 1928 in a log home that was once the governor’s mansion of the Arizona territory. The museum was founded by Sharlot Hall, an early activist who fought to preserve Native American artifacts; she played a part in Arizona statehood as well, successfully arguing that Arizona be admitted to the Union as a separate state, not as part of New Mexico. (She then served as territorial historian from 1909 to 1911.) In addition to the governor’s “mansion,” which is furnished much as it originally might have been, several other interesting buildings can be toured. With its traditional wood-frame construction, the Frémont House, built in 1875 for the fifth territorial governor, shows how quickly Prescott grew from a remote logging and mining camp into a civilized town. The 1877 Bashford House reflects the Victorian architecture that was popular throughout the country in the late 19th century. The Sharlot Hall Building houses exhibits on Native American cultures and territorial Arizona. Every year in early summer, artisans, craftspeople, and costumed exhibitors participate in the museum’s Folk Arts Fair.
| A Big Little Collection |
Prescott is home to Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University, and in the university library, you can marvel at the world’s largest collection of miniature airplanes. The Kalusa Miniature Airplane Collection includes more than 5,500 hand-carved and hand-painted miniature airplanes, created by John W. Kalusa over a period of more than 50 years. The planes are built to a consistent scale of 1⁄18th inch to 1 foot, so you can see how their sizes compare with each other—some are barely an inch across, while others, like Howard Hughes’s famed Spruce Goose, are much larger. The collection is displayed on the first and second floors of the Christine and Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Library and Learning Center, Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University, 3700 Willow Creek Rd. (hazylibrary.erau.edu/kalusa-collection; 928/777-3811). Hours vary with the university’s schedule.
415 W. Gurley St. www.sharlot.org. 928/445-3122. $9 adults, $8 seniors, $6 students, $5 ages 13–17, free for kids 12 and under. May–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–4pm; Oct–Apr Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun noon–4pm. Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.
The Smoki Museum MUSEUM Set in a historic stone building, this interesting collection of Native American artifacts is named for the fictitious Smoki tribe, which was dreamed up in 1921 by a group of non-Native Americans who wanted to inject new life into Prescott’s July 4th celebrations. Despite its phony origins, the museum contains genuine artifacts and basketry from many different tribes, mainly southwestern. The museum also sponsors interesting lectures on Native American topics.
147 N. Arizona Ave. www.smokimuseum.org. 928/445-1230. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, free for kids 12 and under. Mon–Sat 10am–4pm; Sun 1–4pm. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas.
Outdoor Activities
Prescott is situated on the edge of a wide expanse of high plains, with the pine forests of Prescott National Forest at its back. Within the national forest are lakes, campgrounds, and many miles of hiking and mountain-biking trails. For maps and information on hikes and bike rides in the area, stop by the Bradshaw Ranger Station, 344 S. Cortez St. (www.fs.fed.us/r3/prescott; 928/443-8000).
My favorite hiking and biking areas in the national forest are Thumb Butte (west of town) and the Granite Mountain Wilderness (northwest of town). Thumb Butte, a rocky outcropping that towers over the forest just west of town, is Prescott’s most easily recognizable natural landmark. A 1.2-mile trail leads nearly to the top of this butte, and from the saddle near the summit, there’s a panoramic vista of the entire region. The trail is very steep but paved much of the way. The summit of the butte is a popular rock-climbing spot. An alternative return trail makes a loop hike possible. To reach the trail head, drive west out of town on Gurley St. for about 4 miles (it becomes Thumb Butte Rd.). Past the National Forest signs, you’ll find a parking lot, picnic area, and trail head. The parking fee is $5.
The Granite Basin Recreation Area provides access to the Granite Mountain Wilderness. Trails lead beneath the cliffs of Granite Mountain, where you might spot peregrine falcons. For the best views, hike 1.5 miles to Blair Pass and then on up the Granite Mountain trail as far as you feel like going. To reach this area, follow Iron Springs Rd. northwest out of town to the signed road for the Granite Basin Recreation Area (less than 8 miles from downtown). There is a $5 parking fee here.
Both of the above areas also offer mountain-biking trails. Although the scenery isn’t as spectacular as in the Sedona area, the trails are great. You can rent a bike and get maps and trail recommendations at Ironclad Bicycles, 710 White Spar Rd. (www.ironcladbicycles.com; 928/776-1755), which charges $24 to $48 per day for mountain bikes.
Want to explore the area on horseback? A half-hour drive southeast of Prescott, Foothills Ranch, at Finley Rd. and Ariz. 69 in Mayer (www.foothills-ranch.com; 928/379-0260), offers guided trail rides in the Prescott National Forest. A 1-hour ride is $50; longer outings include brunch or lunch.
Exploring the granite dells
Five miles north of Prescott on Ariz. 89, jumbled hills of rounded granite suddenly jut from the landscape, creating a maze of huge boulders and smooth rock known as the Granite Dells . In the middle of this dramatic landscape lies Watson Lake, its waters pushing in among the boulders to create one of the prettiest lakes in the state. On the highway side of the lake, Watson Lake Park, 3101 Watson Lake Rd. (www.cityofprescott.net; 928/777-1122; $3 parking fee) has picnic tables and great views. Spring through fall (weather permitting), you can rent canoes and kayaks at the lake ($15–$20 for the first hour, $10–$15 per hour after that) Friday through Sunday 8am to 4pm. Reservations aren’t accepted, but you can call Prescott Outdoors (www.prescottoutdoors.com; 928/925-1410) to make sure they’ll be at the lake with their boats.
For hiking in the Watson Lake area, I recommend the scenic Peavine Trail , one of the most gratifying easy hikes in the state. To find the trail head, turn east onto Prescott Lake Parkway, between Prescott and the Granite Dells, and then left onto Sun Dog Ranch Road. (There’s a $3 parking fee at the trail head.) This rails-to-trails path, extending several miles through the middle of the Granite Dells, is the best way to fully appreciate their unique beauty (you’ll be away from both people and the highway). The trail also makes a great easy mountain bike ride that can be extended 7.5 miles on the Iron King Trail. Also accessible from the same trail head, the Watson Woods Riparian Preserve has some short trails through the wetlands and riparian zone along Granite Creek.
A couple of miles west of Watson Lake you can hike in Willow Lake Park, 1497 Heritage Park Rd. (www.cityofprescott.net; 928/777-1122). Parking areas on Willow Creek Road provide access to several miles of trails that lead through grasslands and groves of huge cottonwood trees adjacent to Willow Lake. The trails eventually lead to the edge of the Granite Dells. There’s fine bird-watching in the trees in this park, and there are great blue heron and cormorant rookeries. The trail head on Heritage Park Road also provides access to the Willow Dells Trails network, which meander through the jumbled boulders of the Granite Dells; they’re some of the most fascinating trails in the state. There’s a $3 parking fee at all park trail heads.
Reasonably priced golf is available at the 36-hole Antelope Hills Golf Course, 1 Perkins Dr. (www.antelopehillsgolf.com; 928/776-7888). Greens fees start at $40.
Prescott Shopping
Downtown Prescott is the best place in Arizona for antiques shopping. For Native American crafts and Old West memorabilia, stop in at Ogg’s Hogan, 111 N. Cortez St. ( 928/443-9856).
In the Hotel St. Michael’s shopping arcade, Hotel Trading, 110 S. Montezuma St. ( 928/778-7276) carries some genuine Native American artifacts at reasonable prices. Owner Ernie Lister also makes silver jewelry in the 19th-century Navajo style. In this same arcade, the Old Sage Bookshop, 110 S. Montezuma St. ( 928/776-1136) is a wonderful used-book store selling primarily hardback editions. On the same block, you’ll find the Arts Prescott Gallery, 134 S. Montezuma St. (www.artsprescott.com; 928/776-7717), a cooperative of local artists; Van Gogh’s Ear, 156B S. Montezuma St. (www.vgegallery.com; 928/776-1080), which was founded by a splinter group from the co-op; and the Newman Gallery, 106-A S. Montezuma St. (www.newmangallery.net; 928/442-9167), which features the colorful Western-inspired pop-culture imagery of artist Dave Newman.
Want to sample some local wine while you’re in the area? Head north of Prescott to Granite Creek Vineyards, 2515 Rd. 1 E., Chino Valley (www.granitecreekvineyards.com; 928/636-2003), which produces organic, sulfite-free wines that are surprisingly good. The winery is open Friday through Sunday 1 to 5pm. Call for directions. And right in town, at the top of Courthouse Plaza, is Superstition Meadery, 120 W. Gurley St. (www.superstitionmeadery.com; 928/458-4256), which brews mead (made with honey) and ciders.
Where to Stay in Prescott
Moderate
Hassayampa Inn This is the most fun and beautiful place to stay in Prescott. The stately Hassayampa, designed in a slightly incongruous Italianate style, was built as a civic undertaking in 1927 to give the town a first-class hotel worthy of its status as the bustling territorial capital. (The hotel remains on the National Register of Historic Places.) The lobby is all exposed ceiling beams, wrought-iron chandeliers, and arched doorways; the elevator, an original part of the hotel, is stately, too, by which I mean slow. There’s a quite good restaurant in the Peacock Room, which has been redone with Art Deco touches, and the adjoining Glass Bar is a comfortable place to unwind, whether you’re staying at the hotel or not. The rooms have been restored as well, with some original furnishings or antiques, but they can be small and oddly configured. Solo travelers will be fine, but couples should ask in advance about what exactly they are getting.
| Haunted Hotels |
Jerome may be the region’s top ghost town, but in Prescott, three hotels claim to be haunted: The Hassayampa Inn, Hotel St. Michael, and Hotel Vendome are all said to have resident ghosts.
122 E. Gurley St. www.hassayampainn.com. 928/778-9434. 67 units. $79–$199 double. Pets accepted ($10 per night). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; exercise room; room service; free Wi-Fi.
Inexpensive
Hotel St. Michael Located right on Whiskey Row, this hotel has a resident ghost and the oldest elevator in Prescott, and also a self-described “historic ambience”—meaning narrow hallways and small rooms in all manner of configurations. Ask what you’re reserving. Some rooms have tubs but no showers. Its restaurant, the casual Caffe St. Michael, overlooks Courthouse Plaza, and there’s a charming attached cobblestone-paved mini-mall of shops, including a decent bookstore (p. 175).
205 W. Gurley St. www.stmichaelhotel.com. 928/776-1999. 70 units. $79–$189 double; $119–$149 suite. Rates include full breakfast. Amenities: Restaurant; free Wi-Fi.
Hotel Vendome Not quite as luxurious as the Hassayampa, yet not as basic as the St. Michael, the Vendome is a good middle-price choice for those who want to stay in a historic hotel. Built in 1917 as a lodging house, the restored brick building is only 2 blocks from the action of Whiskey Row, but far enough away that you can get a good night’s sleep. Guest rooms are outfitted with modern furnishings, although some bathrooms still have original claw-foot tubs. Two-bedroom units with an interconnected bathroom are ideal for families. There’s an in-house bar open all day and evening; next door is a welcoming gastropub, and on the other side is a groovy coffee shop (Cuppers, see below). And yes, like a couple of other Prescott hotels, the Vendome has a resident ghost.
230 S. Cortez St. www.vendomehotel.com. 928/776-0900. 20 units. $99–$149 double; $149–$299 suite. Rates include continental breakfast. Amenities: Lounge; concierge; free Wi-Fi.
The Motor Lodge Originally opened in 1937 as a collection of summer cabins, this vintage getaway has been revived as a midcentury modern motor court. Rooms are decorated with retro furnishings—more Scottsdale hip than Prescott country, but if you want to stay someplace with a cool aesthetic, this is about your only choice in town. Keep in mind that this is budget hip; rooms vary in size and amenities.
503 S. Montezuma St. www.themotorlodge.com. 928/717-0157. 13 units. $109–$179 double. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
Where to Eat in Prescott
For delicious baked goods and coffee, try the airy, friendly Wild Iris Coffee Shop, 124 S. Granite St. (www.wildiriscoffee.com; 928/778-5155); the coffee’s great, and all baked goods are made from scratch on premises. It’s 2 short blocks west of Whiskey Row. Cuppers, 226 S. Cortez St. (www.cupperscoffee.com; 928/445-1636) is a genteel place to stop for a cup, right next to the Hotel Vendome just south of Courthouse Plaza.
Expensive
Murphy’s AMERICAN Prescott’s high-end steakhouse, Murphy’s is housed in an 1890 mercantile building that’s on the National Register of Historic Places; it’s long been one of Prescott’s favorite special-occasion restaurants. Sparkling leaded-glass doors usher diners into a high-ceilinged room with fans revolving slowly overhead. Many of the shop’s original shelves can still be seen in the lounge area, and the restaurant does a good job of creating a historical ambience. The best bets on the menu are the mesquite-grilled meats, but the fish specials can also be good.
201 N. Cortez St. www.murphysprescott.com. 928/445-4044. Main courses $19–$49. Daily 11am–10pm. Brunch Sun 11am–3pm.
Moderate
El Gato Azul MEDITERRANEAN This casual but careful creekside restaurant in downtown Prescott is a great choice. By careful I mean that they are serious about food. You can have as few or as many tapas (small plates) as you and your group want—try the green chili carnitas, the fried artichokes, or the sticky chicken.
316 W. Goodwin St. www.elgatoazulprescott.com. 928/445-1070. Main courses $8–$12 lunch, $12–$21 dinner; tapas $6–$13. Daily 11am–9pm.
Inexpensive
Dinner Bell Café AMERICAN A big hit with local students and other people in the know, this casual little breakfast-and-lunch place has a split personality. Up front there’s a classic old diner, in business since 1939, while in back is a colorful modern space with walls that roll up in good weather. Regulars order either the waffles (served with a variety of toppings) or the thick, juicy burgers. (The waffles are available at lunch, but I don’t think you can get the burger at breakfast.) The setting, a block off Whiskey Row, makes this a great hideaway for a quick meal; kids will enjoy wandering along the adjacent creekside path.
321 W. Gurley St. 928/445-9888. Main courses $9–$11. No credit cards. Mon–Fri 6:30am–2pm; Sat–Sun 7am–2pm.
Prescott Entertainment & Nightlife
Performing Arts
The Yavapai College Performing Arts Center (www.ycpac.com; 928/776-2000) hosts a wide range of shows, from Cowboy Poet gatherings to national acts of some repute. Check the center’s schedule to see who’s in town. The Prescott Fine Arts Association, 208 N. Marina St. (www.pfaa.net; 928/445-3286) puts on plays and musicals in the 1891 Sacred Heart Church, which is on the National Register of Historic Places. A block away, you’ll find the Prescott Elks Theater, 117 E. Gurley St. (www.prescottelkstheater.com; 928/777-1370), a renovated theater, built in 1905, that hosts everything from jazz nights (on the second Monday of the month) to touring artists to movie nights.
Bars & Saloons
Back in the days when Prescott was the territorial capital and a booming mining town, it supported dozens of rowdy saloons, most of them along Montezuma Street on the west side of Courthouse Plaza, which became known as Whiskey Row. Legend has it there was a tunnel from the courthouse to one of the saloons so lawmakers wouldn’t be seen ducking into the saloons during business hours. On July 14, 1900, a fire consumed most of Whiskey Row, although cowboys and miners managed to drag the tremendously heavy bar of the Palace saloon to safety across the street before it was damaged.
Whiskey Row is no longer a place where respectable women shouldn’t be seen, but it still has a few noisy saloons with genuine Wild West flavor. Some feature live country music on weekends and are dark and dank enough to provide solace to a cowboy (or a construction worker) after a long day’s work. And within a few blocks of Whiskey Row, you can hear country, folk, jazz, and rock at a surprisingly diverse assortment of bars, restaurants, and clubs. In fact, Prescott has one of the densest concentrations of live-music clubs in the state.
To see what this street’s saloons looked like back in the old days, drop by the Palace, 120 S. Montezuma St. (www.historicpalace.com; 928/541-1996), which still has that classic bar up front. These days, the Palace is more of a restaurant than a saloon, but there’s live music on weekends and, a couple times a month, dinner-theater performances—generally tribute bands to this or that country-rock artist, but occasionally an evening of historical tales and music. Call to find out if anything is happening while you’re in town.
If you want to drink where the ranchers drink and not where the hired hands carouse, head upstairs to the Jersey Lilly Saloon, 116 S. Montezuma St. (www.jerseylillysaloon.com; 928/541-7854), which attracts a more well-heeled clientele than the street-level saloons. A block away, the Raven Café, 142 N. Cortez St. (www.ravencafe.com; 928/717-0009) is the most artsy nightlife venue in town: It has the best beer list (with an emphasis on Belgian beers and American microbrews) and an entertainment lineup that ranges from Monday-night movies to live jazz and bluegrass on weekends. As the town becomes more upscale, you’ll also find joints like the Point Bar & Lounge (www.prescottbrewingcompany.com; 928/237-9027), which boasts of organic ingredients in its craft cocktails and some 150 different whiskeys, and the Prescott Brewing Company, 130 W. Gurley St. (www.prescottbrewingcompany.com; 928/771-2795), which brews and serves its own tasty microbrews.
Jerome & the Verde Valley
35 miles NE of Prescott; 28 miles W of Sedona; 130 miles N of Phoenix
I’ll put it simply: You have to go to Jerome. Few towns anywhere in Arizona make more of an impression on visitors than this historic mining town, clinging to the slopes of Cleopatra Hill 2,000 feet above the Verde Valley.
On a clear day, the view from Jerome is stupendous—it’s possible to see for more than 50 miles, with the red rocks of Sedona (p. 190), the Mogollon Rim (p. 197), and the San Francisco Peaks (p. 257) all visible in the distance. What’s more, in the past decade this iconoclastic arts enclave has come into its own; there are galleries, good restaurants, engrossing museums, and a new wine industry that should intrigue oenophiles of any stripe. Families, couples, and singles will all enjoy maneuvering the streets, which are rugged without being annoyingly so.
Once called the billion-dollar copper camp, Jerome was founded in 1883 and by the 1920s was the fourth-largest city in Arizona. In the early years, Jerome’s ore was mined using an 88-mile-long network of underground railroads. But the town’s (and the mining industry’s) biggest nemesis those days were fires: Jerome burned down with some regularity, and fires in the mines smouldered uncontrollably. Eventually, the mining companies were forced to abandon the tunnels in favor of open-pit mining.
Northeast of Jerome, the Verde Valley is so named by early Spanish explorers, impressed by the sight of such a verdant valley in an otherwise brown desert landscape. Cottonwood and Clarkdale, the valley’s two largest towns, are old copper-smelting centers, while Camp Verde was an army post during the Indian Wars. Most visitors here focus on the valley’s two national monuments—Tuzigoot and Montezuma Castle, both remarkable Native American ruins, preserving the vestiges of Sinagua villages that date from long before the first European explorers entered the Verde Valley. By the time the first pioneers began settling in this region, the Sinaguas had long since moved on, and Apaches had claimed the valley as part of their territory; Fort Verde, now a state park, was established to deal with settlers’ conflicts with the Apaches. Between this state park and the two national monuments, hundreds of years of Verde Valley history and prehistory can be explored.
| Jail Brakes? |
One unforeseen hazard of open-pit mining next to a town built on a 30-degree slope was the effect dynamiting would have on Jerome. Mine explosions would regularly rock Jerome’s world, and eventually buildings in town began sliding downhill. Even the town jail broke loose. With no brakes to stop it, the jail slid 225 feet downhill. (Now that’s a jailbreak.)
Between 1883 and 1953, Jerome experienced an economic roller-coaster ride as the price of copper rose and fell. By the early 1950s, it was no longer profitable to mine the copper ore of Cleopatra Hill, and the last mining company shut down operations. Almost everyone left town. By the early 1960s, Jerome was on its way to becoming just another ghost town. But then artists discovered the phenomenal views and dirt-cheap rents and began moving in; slowly the near-ghost town developed a reputation as an artists’ community. Soon tourists began visiting to see and buy the artwork being created in Jerome, and old storefronts turned into galleries.
As the state has pulled out of the recession of the late 2000s, Jerome has blossomed. On summer weekends its streets are packed with visitors browsing the galleries and crafts shops. The ghost town image lingers, but only in a string of shops playing up the haunted theme.
Essentials
Arriving
Jerome is on Ariz. 89A roughly halfway between Sedona and Prescott, about an hour’s drive (sometimes less) from either. Coming from Phoenix, it’s a 2-hour drive via I-17 and Ariz. 260, which will take you northwest through Camp Verde, Cottonwood, and Clarkdale before reaching Jerome.
Visitor Information
The Jerome Chamber of Commerce (www.jeromechamber.com; 928/634-2900) runs a charming visitor center, about the size of two shoeboxes stacked on top of each other, at the bottom of town, at Hull Street and 1st Avenue. The chamber’s website is a good place to check for art walks, home tours, and the like. Also check out the websites of the Cottonwood Chamber of Commerce, 1010 S. Main St., Cottonwood (www.cottonwoodchamberaz.org; 928/634-7593) and the Sedona Verde Valley Tourism Council (www.sedonaverdevalley.org).
Festivals
Avid birders may want to plan their visit to coincide with the annual Verde Valley Birding & Nature Festival (www.birdyverde.org; 928/282-2202), which is held the last weekend in April.
Exploring Jerome
That same remote and rugged setting that once made it so expensive to mine copper is now one of Jerome’s main attractions. Because it’s literally built on the side of a mountain, its streets switch back from one level of houses to the next, with narrow alleys and stairways connecting the different levels of town. All these winding streets, alleys, and stairways are lined with old brick and wood-frame buildings—some businesses, some private residences—clinging precariously to their perch. The entire town has been designated a National Historic Landmark, and today, homes, studios, wine-tasting rooms, and galleries stand side by side, looking (externally, anyway) much as they did when Jerome was an active mining town.
Jerome, once nearly a ghost town, preserves even the most crumbling relics of its copper-mining boom days.
Jerome is an interesting enough place that you won’t regret spending half an hour or so before you hit the town proper at the Jerome State Historic Park, off Ariz. 89A at the end of Douglas Road in the lower section of town (www.azstateparks.com; 928/634-5381). It’s a bit tricky to get here: Watch for signs and be ready to veer right onto Douglas Road as you approach the mountain; Douglas Road curves alongside the mountain for about a mile. It’s called a park but it’s really a museum, occupying the onetime home of mining magnate “Rawhide Jimmy” Douglas. Here you’ll find wonderful photos and artifacts of the town’s colorful history, along with an amazing view: the crazy constructions of Jerome on one side, and sweeping Verde Valley vistas on the other. The mansion, constructed of adobe bricks made on-site, once boasted a wine cellar, billiards room, marble shower, steam heat, and central vacuum system. The park is open Thursday through Monday 8:30am to 5pm; admission is $7 adults, $4 for ages 7 to 13.
Returning to Ariz. 89A, drive the last quarter-mile into town; park in one of the gravel lots in the first block or two. You’ll enjoy your time in Jerome a lot more if you’re walking back down to your car at the end of your visit rather than up.
For more local history, visit the Jerome Historical Society’s Mine Museum, 200 Main St. (www.jeromehistoricalsociety.org; 928/634-5477) to see some great panoramic pictures of Jerome in the old days; the museum also has a fun little dark mine passageway, which among other things will answer your questions about how and where miners went to the bathroom. It’s open daily 9am to 5pm; admission is $2 adults, $1 seniors, free for kids 12 and under. Still haven’t gotten enough? You can take a 1-hour Jerome History Tour (jeromehistorytours.com; 928/592-3768) for $15 ($10 for kids). For something a bit more irreverent, Ghost Town Tours, 403 N. Clark St. (ghosttowntours.org; 928/635-6118) offers a variety of ghost and history tours from $30 to $65 (half price for kids); you can probably get a discount by stopping by the store.
As you walk along Main Street, you’ll notice some surprises among the shops and the overgrown residential gardens. Look for a small inlet with one of the mine’s old blast furnaces; a sign explains that it was fueled by coke brought to Arizona from Wales, UK. Just to the left of that, a concrete stairway will take you to a hidden park right above it, shaded and with a picnic table and swing set for the kids.
The Jerome Grand Hotel, originally a hospital, crowns its steep hillside of switchback streets.
Once you get to the final switchback, Clark Street, you have two choices. The first is to drop into Wicked City Brew, 403 Clark St. ( 928/351-7940) for some locally brewed craft beers (all on tap with old horseshoes and such on the tap handles) and a selection of Arizona wines. The second is to press on up Clark Street, past the Haunted Hamburger restaurant (p. 189), to Hill Street, which veers up to the right. If you follow this road for about a quarter-mile over rather steep gravel, you’ll reach the wonderful Grand Hotel (p. 188), the most prominent building in the town, and its restaurant, the Asylum. Views here are as good as they get. It’s a great place to stop for a drink or a bite to eat before heading back down the mountain.
| Sipping the Local Vintages: Jerome |
Central Arizona is working hard to develop worthy wineries; right now, Jerome is ground zero for finding out whether they are on to something. Most of the new shops in town have deals for tastings; some offer small plates of food, too, and they’ll generally throw in the cost of the tasting if you end up buying a few bottles. Caduceus Cellars, 158 Main St. (www.caduceus.org; 928/639-9463) drew attention originally because it was started by a member of the rock band Tool; it is now the most respected winemaker in the state. Bitter Creek Winery, 240 Hull St. (www.bittercreekwinery.com; 928/634-7033), at the north end of Hull Street, has some nice views of the Verde Valley to contemplate while you sip. Another respected company markets two wines, Passion and Salvatore, in a swanky shop called Cabal, 417 Hull St. (www.passioncellars.com; 928/649-9800).
Jerome Shopping
Artists have made Jerome’s name in the 21st century. By all means, stop at the Jerome Artists Cooperative Gallery, 502 Main St. (www.jeromeartistscoop.com; 928/639-4276), on the west side of the street where Hull Avenue and Main Street fork as you come uphill into town. It’s a bright and airy place with room after room of respectable art and craftwork. Don’t miss the eclectic offerings—everything from surplus Russian army and navy uniforms to feather boas—at the House of Joy, 416 N. Hull Ave. (www.jeromesfinest.com; 928/634-5339), which styles itself as a “brothel boutique” after the business that occupied the space in the bad old days. For more tastefully curated women’s wear, visit Threads on Main, 367 Main St. (www.threadsjerome.com; 928/649-9502). Arizona Discoveries, 317 Main St. ( 928/634-5716) is probably the best of the shops selling tchotchkes and such. Where else can you get vintage spittoons—for the man, or woman, who has everything? (Whatever you do, though, don’t ask the proprietor if you can take photos—I found that out the hard way.) Someone’s going to want to stop in at Copper Country Fudge, 337 Main St. ( 928/634-4040).
A little farther up the road, the Raku Gallery, 250 Hull Ave. (www.rakugallery.com; 928/639-0239) has gallery space on two floors and walls of glass across the back, with views of the red rocks of Sedona in the distance. Don’t miss Nellie Bly, 136 Main St. (www.nellieblyscopes.com; 928/634-0255), a shop full of handmade kaleidoscopes. A couple of doors away you’ll find Pura Vida Gallery, 501 School St. (www.puravidagalleryjerome.com; 928/634-0937), which has a fascinating and eclectic selection of fine art, jewelry, and unusual Southwest-inspired furniture and fashions.
Exploring the Verde Valley
In Clarkdale, 5 miles northeast of Jerome on Ariz. 260, the small Clarkdale Arizona Historical Society Museum, 900 First North St. (www.clarkdalemuseum.org; 928/649-1198; free admission), has a lot of interesting information on the grand copper smelters that once dominated the region’s economy. And right down the street is something special: the Arizona Copper Art Museum , 849 Main St. (www.copperartmuseum.com; 928/649-1858), an extraordinary collection of some 5,000 works of art made from copper. The glow alone is unforgettable. It’s open daily 10am–5pm; adult tickets are $9, with discounts for seniors and kids.
Cottonwood, 4 miles or so southeast of Clarkdale, isn’t nearly as atmospheric as Jerome, but in its Old Town district, where one side of Main Street has an old-fashioned covered sidewalk, you’ll find quite a few interesting shops, galleries, and cafes. I could point you, for example, to Adventures Unlimited Books, 1020 N. Main St. (www.adventuresunlimitedpress.com; 928/639-1664). Just a normal bookstore, right? But look around a bit and you’ll start to hear the theme from The X-Files. You’ll find everything you ever need to know on aliens, sightings, chemtrail, conspiracy theories, anti-gravity machines, mystical phenomena, and many other things. Farther down the street is an iconoclastic purveyor of sculpture, a shop that calls itself The Most Interesting Store in the World, 909 N. Main St. ( 928/821-0313), which is only somewhat hyperbolic.
| Sipping the Local Vintages: Verde Valley |
About halfway between Camp Verde and Cottonwood, Alcantara Vineyards, 3445 S. Grapevine Way, Verde Valley (www.alcantaravineyard.com; 888/569-0756 or 928/649-8463) is far and away the most beautiful winery in Arizona, with terraced vineyards overlooking limestone cliffs and a bend of the Verde River. There are tours on Friday and Saturday at 11:30am. The tasting room is open daily 11am to 5pm; there is an $10 per person tasting fee.
