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introduction

Traditional Indian cuisine has its own charm, its own signature dishes and its own stories. When we add the twist of contemporary presentation, a touch of native sensibilities and a dash of the global bounty, what you find before you is a kaleidoscope of delectable, modern, yet soul-stirring cuisine, I affectionately call this “easy Indian cooking.”

This book represents my take on modern Indian cuisine, marrying together the traditional Indian soul with the contemporary lifestyle. Whether cooked for family or guests, the recipes in this book alleviate that feeling of intimidation that is often associated with Indian cooking.

Easy Indian Cooking re-creates classic Indian dishes using simple techniques along with a delicious juxtaposition of non-Indian ingredients. I have strived to bring traditional cuisine to accessible levels fit for modern living and entertaining, while keeping the flavors and authenticity intact.

Having traveled extensively within India, I'm able to offer you various distinctive styles that are unique to—and often characteristic of—different regions of the country. I've been mindful of the different ways we approach food, how we cook and eat, and the ingredients that are readily available at your local grocery. What results is a contemporary style of cooking great tasting food for easy entertaining and busy lifestyles. Through these recipes you'll experience the richly diverse, culturally beautiful country of India and the many flavors that it can bring to your table using locally available ingredients.

indian cooking techniques

The heart and soul of Indian cooking is the mastery of using unique and imaginative spices, seasonings and flavorings, and learning the nitty-gritty of Indian cooking techniques. You will already be familiar with many of these cooking techniques from your own everyday cooking. The main techniques are steaming (dum), tempering (tarhka), roasting (bhunnana), frying (talna) and sautéing (bhunao). Other common techniques are the roasting and grinding of spices, browning onions, garlic and meats, and handling sauces. Some or all of these methods may be necessary to prepare an Indian dish. They are not hard to master, but is important to understand the basic principles of each.

Browning

Most Indian recipes require the browning of onions fried over medium-high heat. Evenly browned onions are more flavorful and give sauces a desired rich, deep reddish-brown color. The same goes for garlic—the flavor of garlic is quite amazing if it is fried in oil until it turns golden brown. For the best flavor and color, meat is also browned. Browning also sears the meat, which makes it juicy. I like to brown marinated meat before combining it with other ingredients. If I am cooking a larger quantity, I brown a few pieces of meat at a time in hot oil and set them aside. I then add the browned meat and all the cooking juices back into the pan with the other ingredients and let it finish cooking in the sauce.

Deep-Frying

Talna refers to deep-frying, Indian style. Generally, for deep-frying, Indian cooks use a kadhai—a deep pan with a rounded bottom similar to a wok. Unlike a deep fat fryer, the size and shape of the kadhai does not allow large quantities of food to be fried at one time, which results in even frying.

When deep-frying, oil should be heated to between 325° and 350°F (160° and 180°C). This is crucial—if the oil is too hot, the outside of the food will brown very quickly, leaving the inside uncooked; and, if the oil is not hot enough the foods will absorb oil and become greasy. When frying, do not overcrowd the pan; fry the food in batches, if necessary. Use a slotted spatula or spoon when removing fried food from the oil, and hold each piece against the edge of the pan for a few seconds. This allows excess oil to drain back into the pan. Place fried foods on a tray lined with paper towels to drain. To re-use the oil, let it cool completely. Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain the oil into an airtight container. Store the oil at room temperature.

Roasting Meats

In Indian cooking roasting is traditionally done in a charcoal-fired tandoor (clay oven), which gives a unique flavor to roasted meats, breads and vegetables. The juices of the meats drip and sizzle on the charcoal and the smoke that is created gives the food its unique flavor. For home cooking, an open charcoal grill is good substitute for cooking meat kebabs, vegetables and paneer, though the flavor is milder than that achieved in a tandoor. An oven can be used to make breads and also to roast marinated meats and vegetables.

Steaming

Dum cooking has been described as the “maturing of a dish,” as in this technique the food is very slowly cooked in its own steam. Traditionally, the lid was sealed to the cooking vessel with a flour-and-water paste to make sure moisture stayed trapped within. The vessel was partially buried in hot coals and, to ensure the food was evenly surrounded by heat, some hot coals were placed on top of the lid. Today the modern oven is used to perform the function of providing even heat. The dish is first cooked on a stove top and then well sealed and placed in the oven to continue cooking in its own steam. The advantage of dum cooking is that because the vapors cannot escape, the food retains all of its delicate flavor and aroma.

Roasting and Grinding Your Spices at Home

Roasting (or toasting) is the key to enhancing the flavor of spices. It removes the raw smell that untreated spices tend to have and intensifies their flavors by heating up essential oils. All you need is a small, heavy-bottomed skillet (cast iron works great). No oil is used when roasting spices. Whole spices are put in a dry skillet and roasted over medium heat until the spices turn a shade or two darker and become aromatic. The spices are then immediately removed from the hot skillet to avoid over-roasting them.

In my kitchen I generally buy the spices whole and then grind them myself as I need them. Because spices retain their flavor and aroma much longer in their whole state rather than when ground, grinding roasted spices in small batches is the ideal way to use them, and gives the greatest possible flavor to dishes. Traditionally, spice grinding was done with heavy grinding-stones or a mortar and pestle. To save time, I grind spices using a spice grinder, though a coffee grinder works equally well.

Sautéing

Unlike classic French sautéing, bhunao is a combination of sautéing, stir-frying and light stewing. It is the process of cooking over medium to high heat, adding small quantities of liquid, such as water or tomato purée, and stirring constantly to prevent the ingredients from sticking. Almost every Indian recipe needs bhunao at some stage, and some at more than one stage. Generally ingredients like onions, ginger, garlic, tomatoes and spices require bhunao to extract the flavor of each of the ingredients in combination with spices and to ensure that the masala is fully cooked before adding the main ingredient. Sometimes the main ingredient, such as poultry, meats or vegetables, may also require bhunao. The process of making masala is complete only when the fat leaves the masala, which is critical in Indian cooking. Traditionally a kadhai (Indian wok) is used for this technique, but a heavy-bottomed saucepan or other deep-sided pan, such as a braiser or Dutch oven, works as well.

Roasting Vegetables

Use fresh and firm vegetables (peppers are a popular choice). Take a sharp knife and remove any stems, cores, membranes and seeds. Cut items like peppers in half lengthwise and flatten the halves by squashing them against a flat surface. Lay the items skin-side-up on a foil-lined baking sheet and broil, 4 to 6 inches away from the heat source, until blackened all over, 5 to 10 minutes. Watch carefully and rotate the pan as needed to blacken as evenly as possible. Pull up the edges of the foil to make an envelope around the vegetables. Seal the envelope, and let it sit at least 15 minutes and up to 1 hour to soften the items. Pull off and discard the skins. Do this under running water, if you prefer.

Tempering

This technique is unique to Indian cooking. A mixture of whole spices, with or without chopped garlic and ginger, is added to very hot oil. This extracts and retains the essence, aroma and flavor of spices and herbs. This process is performed either at the beginning of cooking a dish or after the preparation is nearly complete. If done after a dish is cooked, the prepared tempering is poured, sizzling hot, over the dish to add a burst of flavor (as is sometimes done when preparing dals). The seasonings that are most commonly tempered include cumin seeds, black mustard seeds, fennel seeds, dried red chilies, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom and bay leaves, as well as chopped ginger, garlic and fresh or dried curry leaves. The ingredients are usually added in rapid succession, rarely together. This is to ensure that each ingredient is fully cooked, and thus its flavor fully extracted into the oil, before the next ingredient is added. This method also allows for longer-cooking ingredients or spices to be added first, and shorter-cooking ingredients or spices—which would otherwise have the tendency to burn—to be added last. The crackling of the spices or a change in their color indicates that the process is complete, unless fresh herbs and vegetables are also being used.

some helpful tools

You don't need special kitchen tools or cookware to cook Indian food at home. All you need is a well-equipped kitchen with sturdy skillets, pots and pans with lids, tongs, good knives, graters, mixing bowls, a rolling pin, a perforated spoon, a sieve, a strainer and a citrus squeezer. I like to use an Indian spice box to hold my most frequently used spices and spice blends—garam masala, cumin seeds, mustard seeds, Asian chili powder or cayenne pepper and turmeric. It sits on my kitchen counter where I can quickly grab a pinch of spice when needed. I generally use non-stick pots, saucepans and skillets when cooking Indian food at home because of the relatively long cooking time of ingredients. Some ingredients, like spices, onions, ginger, garlic and tomatoes, which are typically cooked in small quantities of liquid or fat, tend to stick to conventional pans. If you have regular pots and pans, to prevent sticking, make sure they are heavy bottomed and sturdy. Stir the food frequently, and add more cooking oil as needed.

The following additional tools are not crucial but they will make cooking Indian food a lot simpler and quicker.

Blender

When it comes to combining liquids with fresh herbs or spices for sauces, pastes or purées there is nothing more effective than a blender. Blenders with a narrow, tapered base (or basically straight sides) work very effectively to purée thick sauces and pastes, unlike the blender jars with a broader base, which are ideal for blended drinks. Ginger garlic paste can be made very efficiently in a blender. I also use it to grind large amounts of whole spices. I prefer glass blender jars in my kitchen as plastic absorbs aromas from the spices and herbs.

I also have a hand-held blender, also called an “immersion” blender, which I often use to purée vegetables, lentils or beans. This tool is ideal when preparing puréed soups or dals, as you can purée the food directly in the pan. You need not wait for hot liquid to cool to use an immersion blender, and it saves you the task of cleaning up a messy upright blender.

Electric Food Processor

The traditional heavy grinding stone of Indian kitchens, which is moved manually, is now replaced with the modern food processor—a time-saving tool par excellence for busy cooks. Essential ingredients like onion, chili peppers, garlic and ginger can be made into pastes very quickly in these machines. The food processor can be used to chop or mince vegetables and fresh herbs, cutting down considerably on prep time. I recommend a food processor that has a capacity of between 7 and 10 cups. To pulverize smaller quantities of ingredients, make sure the blades sit close to the bottom. For very small quantities, use a knife.

Electric Spice Grinder or Coffee Grinder

I highly recommend investing in a spice grinder or a coffee grinder. This is one of the most important tools that you will use in Indian cooking. I use one to coarsely or finely grind dry whole spices. It grinds them in seconds and clean up is very simple.

Electric coffee grinders are ideally suited for grinding a wide range of spices, such as cumin seeds, cinnamon sticks (broken up), cardamom and bay leaves. They can grind as little as a teaspoon to as much as half a cup. Use a blender for larger volumes of whole spices. A spice grinder or coffee grinder will make your cooking process very simple and the results very flavorful. If you use a coffee grinder to grind spices, reserve it for that use only; otherwise, you will end up with cumin-flavored coffee.

Cast-Iron Skillets and Griddles

Small cast-iron skillets are ideal for dry roasting spices because they evenly brown them without needing to add any cooking fat or liquid. Always preheat your cast-iron pan before frying in it.

A large cast-iron skillet or griddle is excellent for making Indian flatbreads. Traditionally, these breads are cooked in a tava, a round, concave, cast-iron griddle that is available in South Asian grocery stores.

You can cook almost any food in cast-iron cookware, but new cast-iron pans should be seasoned before use according to the manufacturer's instructions. Cast iron is a natural non-stick surface if your pan is seasoned correctly, making it a great alternative to artificial non-stick cooking surfaces.

Cast-iron can be pre-heated to temperatures that will brown meat and will withstand oven temperatures well above what is considered safe for non-stick pans—just don't put cold liquid into a very hot cast-iron pan; doing so might damage or crack the pan.

indian ingredients

The following is a description of some of the most popular and commonly used ingredients in this book. Many of the ingredients and spices used in Easy Indian Cooking are found in well-stocked supermarkets. These include cumin, coriander, turmeric, black pepper, ginger, paprika, cayenne pepper, cloves, cinnamon and cardamom. Some others are carried in South Asian or Indian food markets. It is also possible to order spices by mail and on the internet. Indian cuisine has always been very compatible with spices and ingredients from other cuisines and cultures. I use a lot of ingredients that are locally available and not used in a traditional Indian kitchen. Olive oil is one of them. Even though in most cases Indian recipes call for any neutral-flavored vegetable oil (for example, canola, safflower or corn oil), olive oil is a healthier alternative. I often use it to drizzle over salads and sometimes for lighter cooking.

Storage Tips for Spices and Herbs

Ideally, it is best to buy all dry spices in their whole form. Whole spices will stay fresh generally five to six months longer than pre-ground spices. It’s a good habit to smell ground spices before using them; if their smell is very faint, it’s time to replace them or grind a fresh batch. Both whole and ground spices should be stored in a cool, dry, dark place in tightly covered jars. Freshly ground spices are not the same as pre-ground store-bought spices. Freshly ground spices are far superior in flavor and aroma to pre-ground spices. Another difference is in the weight and volume: freshly ground spices have less weight per tablespoon (or greater volume per ounce), than pre-ground spices, which settle over time. You might think you would need to use more of the freshly-ground spice to compensate for the greater density of the settled pre-ground spice. But because pre-ground spices are so much less potent than freshly ground, the difference in mass is not of consequence. If anything, you might need to add more of the pre-ground spice.

To prolong the life span of fresh herbs, like fresh coriander leaves (cilantro) and mint, wash and dry the leaves with a paper towel until the leaves are mostly dried. Store refrigerated, wrapped in a kitchen or paper towel, in a resealable plastic food storage bag.

Asian Chili Powder

This is a red powder made from grinding dried red skins of several types of chili peppers. In India, it is simply called “chili powder.” You can substitute cayenne pepper, which is commonly available in supermarkets. The Indian chili powder, which is darker in color than cayenne pepper, is available in Indian grocery stores. It adds a spicy flavor to dishes.

Bay Leaves

These are long, oval, pointed and smooth leaves of a hardy evergreen shrub. The leaves are dark green when fresh and turn olive green when dry. When fresh, the leaves are very mild and do not develop their full flavor until several weeks after picking and drying. They are often used whole, or sometimes ground in curries and rice dishes. They are an important ingredient in the Indian spice blend garam masala. Bay leaves are also a common fixture in the cooking of many European cuisines (particularly those of the Mediterranean), as well as North and South American cuisines. The bay leaf that is commonly available in North America is similar in appearance to the Indian bay leaf, but its flavor and fragrance are milder than the Indian counterpart. If you cannot find Indian bay leaves, which are often found only in Indian grocery stores, you may substitute regular bay leaves. The difference is very subtle and will not affect the final result.

Cardamom

The cardamom plant is native to India and Sri Lanka and is also cultivated in Guatemala, Mexico, Indonesia and other areas of southern Asia. The cardamom pods are harvested just before they are ripe and they are allowed to dry in the sun or sometimes in drying machines. There are two distinct types of cardamom pods used in Indian cooking: the small green pod and large black pod. The green pods are the most common and have exceptional flavor. I recommend using the green pods whenever cardamom is called for in this book. Black cardamom pods are used in Indian rice and meat dishes; however, they are not as commonly available.

Cardamom pods are used in almost every part of the cuisine, from savory dishes to curries and desserts. When using cardamom for desserts, the seeds are extracted from the pods and ground to a powder. For curries, stews or rice dishes, the whole pod can be added directly to the food. The sharp and bitter taste of cardamom mellows to a warming sweet taste as it cooks. The pre-ground preparation is more readily available than the pods in the West, whereas in India it is typical to find the whole pod. The quality of pre-ground cardamom is not as good as that found when freshly grinding the seeds at home. Once the pods are opened or the seeds ground, the flavor and aroma of the cardamom are lost very quickly. I especially recommend freshly grinding the seeds for the dessert and beverage recipes, where the spice often plays a particularly prominent role.

Chili Peppers

There are more than 150 varieties of chili peppers in the world. That’s a lot to keep track of, but as a general rule the smaller ones are hotter than the larger ones. The two most common chilies used in Indian cooking are the cayenne and Thai. The cayenne pepper is green when fresh and red when dried. The Thai variety, or “bird’s eye,” is smaller and hotter. The serrano chili is more widely available in the U.S. and is a good alternative to the cayenne and Thai, though it is milder. If you cannot find fresh cayenne, Thai or serrano chili peppers, simply use what’s available.

Fresh Chilies These are one of the most important ingredients for providing pungency in Indian cuisine. In many regions in India fresh green chilies are served raw with the food. I often remove the inner membrane and seeds and use only the skin to reduce the heat. Chopping fresh chili releases capsaicin, and the finer you chop it, the hotter the taste. Sometimes I slit the chilies open, but leave the seeds intact to release a gentler heat.

Dried Red Chili Peppers Whole dried red hot chilies, about 1½ to 2 inches (4 to 5 cm) long, are usually added to hot oil to infuse their strong flavor. A quick contact with hot oil enhances and intensifies the flavor of the skins. Indian dried red chilies are similar to most common types such as the cayenne and chili de arbol.

Cinnamon

This fragrant spice is the dried inner bark of the laurel tree. It is an important ingredient in Indian cooking, imparting a pleasant aroma to foods. It is sold in powder and stick forms. Whole sticks are used to flavor meats, curry and rice dishes as well as teas.

Cloves

These are dried unopened buds of a tropical tree. Deep reddish brown cloves add a strong fragrance to rice and grain recipes. It is also an important ingredient in garam masala. The cloves are lightly fried in hot oil, which perfumes the food subsequently cooked in the oil.

Coconut Milk, Coconut Meat, Shredded Coconut

In my recipes I use coconut milk, coconut meat and shredded coconut. Coconut milk is produced by crushing the thick white coconut meat that is inside the dark brown coconut shell. Water is added to the macerated mixture. It is then drained and the soaked coconut meat is squeezed to extract the liquid. As the milk sits, the fat rises to the surface. This fat is skimmed off and sold separately as coconut cream. The cream is much richer and thicker than the milk. Coconut milk and coconut cream are both sold in cans. When using coconut milk for savory recipes, make sure it is not sweetened. Sweetened milk or cream is used in making pastries and cocktails. I prefer to used full-fat coconut milk rather than the “lite” version, which is not as flavorful or creamy. Before opening a can of coconut milk make sure to shake it well, as the cream will have risen to the top; shaking the can incorporates the cream into the thinner milk-like liquid to create a smooth, even consistency. Once the can is opened make sure you store it covered in the refrigerator and use it within 2 to 3 days, as it spoils quickly.

Packaged shredded coconut (sometimes called “grated”) is available frozen, which is the next best option to freshly grated, and dried, or “desiccated.” For the recipes in this book, be sure to purchase unsweetened shredded coconut. While dried unsweetened coconut is easy to find in most supermarkets or health food stores, frozen shredded coconut is available only in Southeast Asian or Indian grocery stores. The dried shredded coconut, however, has significantly less flavor than the frozen or fresh forms and does not give the creamy texture that is desired in Indian curries and stews. If you only have access to dried, unsweetened shredded coconut, soak ½ cup (50 g) of the dried coconut in ½ cup (125 ml) of boiling water for about 15 minutes. Drain the excess water before use. Note that ½ cup of dried coconut is comparable to 1 cup of freshly shredded or frozen shredded coconut.

Freshly shredded, or grated, coconut will provide the best flavor and texture in Indian dishes. This requires purchasing a coconut and whacking it apart at home. Here is how to grate fresh coconut at home: Start with a clean looking coconut without cracks or any overpowering or rancid smell. It should feel heavy and full of water. You can shake the coconut to hear the water swish. Place the coconut on a clean, heavy wooden cutting board or a clean concrete block. Holding the coconut in one hand, tap the coconut lightly on all sides with a hammer to dislodge the insides from the hard brown shell. Then carefully but forcefully hit the shell with the hammer to break it open. Now most of the hard shell should separate from the coconut. Carefully pry off the meat from the brown outer shell with the tip of a well rounded blunt knife. Grate the coconut meat using a handheld grater.

Coriander Leaves

Also known as “cilantro,” the leaves of this plant, an annual in the parsley family, is one of the most commonly used herbs in Indian cuisine. This herb is generally used uncooked for garnishes, marinades and chutneys. Many dishes also incorporate fresh coriander leaves at various stages of cooking, which dissipates the sharp flavor and aroma of the herb, leaving a mild flavor. Fresh coriander leaves are highly perishable and prone to wilting. See “Storage Tips for Spices and Herbs,” page 10.

Coriander Seeds

Coriander seeds are ribbed pepper-corn-sized and -shaped pale green to light brown-colored seeds of the coriander (or cilantro) plant. They are extremely aromatic, with a spicy hint; yet, taste and aroma are in no way similar to the leaves of the coriander plant. I always keep them in small quantities in airtight containers, as they lose their flavor with exposure and age. Coriander seeds are also available in a pre-ground form.

Cucumbers

Cucumbers are widely used in Indian kitchens and can be served with any Indian meal. Cucumbers can always be found in my refrigerator and are a summertime favorite. The cooling, clean flavor matches well with foods like chilies, cilantro, cream, garlic, lemon, lime, mint, olive oil, onions, sour cream, tomatoes, vinegar and yogurt. I like to cut them into little finger sized wedges and serve it with a sprinkle of salt, black pepper, Asian chili powder or cayenne pepper and a heavy dose of fresh squeezed lemon juice.

When purchasing cucumbers, look for smooth, brightly-colored skin. Cucumbers keep well in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to ten days. I prefer to use the long seedless variety called “English” cucumbers. They are usually sold shrink wrapped and they aren’t actually seedless—the seeds are just very small. These cucumbers can be eaten without peeling and seeding unlike the common, garden-variety salad cucumber.

Cumin Seeds

These seeds are the best-known and most widely used spice in Indian cuisine. They are either fried whole in hot oil or dry roasted and then used whole or finely ground, according to the recipe. Cumin is warm, intense, and has an almost nutty aroma.

Curry Leaves, Fresh and Dried

Curry leaves originate from the kari tree, a sub-tropical tree native to India. They are used similarly to the way bay leaves are used—mainly as an aromatic and flavoring for most curries and soups. They are widely used in dishes along the southern coastal regions of India. When starting a curry or soup dish, curry leaves are placed in hot oil to fry until crisp, which makes the oil and the leaves intensely flavorful. It is common to use fresh curry leaves in India rather than dried. You can purchase fresh curry leaves in Indian grocery stores. Dried curry leaves can be purchased from specialty gourmet stores or online. The best way to store fresh curry leaves is to wash and pat them mostly dry with a paper towel. Store refrigerated, wrapped in a kitchen towel or a paper towel in a resealable food storage bag. They will stay fresh for up to a month. For extended use, air dry them completely and store in an airtight container.

Dried Legumes (Lentils, Dried Beans and Peas)

In India, all types of dried legumes, be they lentils, peas or beans, are known as dals. They are an integral part of Indian meals, being economical, highly nutritious, very low in fat and a good source of carbohydrates, proteins, fibers, minerals and vitamins. Dals are a good substitute for meat, which has more fat and cholesterol. Many common varieties of dals, like chickpeas (kabuli chana), kidney beans (rajmah), whole green lentils (sabut moong) and cow peas (black-eyed peas), are available in conventional supermarket. Some not-so-common varieties that are used in Indian cooking include pigeon peas (toor dal), split black gram, aka “black lentils” (urad dal), split green lentils (moong dal), split red lentils (masoor dal) and yellow split peas (chana dal). To procure these, a trip to an Indian grocery store or an online purchase is necessary. I often stock my pantry with canned legumes, which I find to be an acceptable substitute for dried and very convenient to use when I’m in a rush. In the dal recipes in this book, I include the option of using commonly available canned peas or beans. Make sure to drain and rinse them thoroughly before using them.

split yellow peas (chana dal) and mung beans (mung dal), split red lentils (masoor dal), split pigeon peas (toor dal) and black-eyed peas.

Fennel Seeds

These are the oval pale greenish-yellow seeds of the common fennel plant, a member of parsley family. They are sweetly aromatic and have an aniselike flavor. In Indian cooking, they are used whole and ground in both sweet and savory dishes. Roasted fennel seeds are sometimes sugarcoated and chewed as a digestive and mouth freshener after Indian meals. They are available most grocery stores.

Fenugreek Seeds

Fenugreek seeds are tiny, bitter, yellowish-brown seeds that provide commercial curry powders with their distinctive aroma. They are used in small quantities because of their strong flavor. The seeds are often oil-roasted and then ground to create a bitter balance in curries in the southern part of India; in the eastern part of India the seeds are stir-fried whole. Whole fenugreek seeds are available only in Southeast Asian or Indian grocery stores.

Garlic

A close relative to onion, shallot and the leek, garlic has been used throughout recorded history for both culinary and medicinal purposes. It has a characteristic pungent, spicy flavor that mellows and sweetens considerably with cooking. Garlic powder is not a substitute for fresh garlic in traditional Indian cooking. Whole bulbs of garlic will keep for several months or longer when stored at room temperature in a dry, dark place that has ample air circulation. Keep in mind, however, that garlic’s shelf life begins to decrease more rapidly once you start removing cloves from the bulb. Storing garlic uncovered, such as in a wire-mesh basket inside your cupboard is ideal. You can also store garlic in a paper bag or a mesh bag. Just be sure there is plenty of dry air and little light to inhibit sprouting. To avoid mold, do not refrigerate or store garlic in plastic bags.

Ginger

Ginger is a knobby, pale-brown rhizome of a perennial tropical plant. It is available fresh, dried and ground into a powder and as a preserved stem. Ground ginger or preserved ginger is almost never used in Indian cooking. Fresh ginger root has no aroma, but once you peel or cut it, it emits a warm, woody aroma with citrus undertones. When used fresh, it has a peppery hot bite to it. Fresh ginger is used throughout India and is a very common ingredient in Indian cooking. It is often ground into a paste, finely chopped, or made into juice. We add chopped ginger to stir-fry vegetables, crushed ginger or ginger paste in meat stews and legumes and thinly sliced slivers of raw ginger are sometimes sprinkled over curries just before serving. While shopping for fresh ginger, look for a hard and heavy root that snaps easily into pieces. Avoid dry, shriveled roots that feel light for their size. Keep fresh ginger in your refrigerator crisper in a plastic bag with a paper towel to absorb moisture (to prevent mold, change the towel occasionally). It will last for two or three weeks. To extend its life, you can freeze ginger. You don't even need to defrost it, and ginger is much easier to grate when frozen.

Lentils see Dried Legumes

Mace

Mace is the dark, red, lacy membrane that covers the outside of the nutmeg shell. This is skillfully removed after the fruit bursts opens, then flattened and dried to become mace, as we know the spice. Mace has a rich, warm, citrusy, spicy aroma and bitter taste, very similar to nutmeg, only stronger. It is often used in small quantities for making spice blends and pastes. Whole mace, or “blades,” is often toasted and ground and then mixed with yogurt, herbs and other spices to marinate Indian grilled or roasted meats. Whole mace is also an important ingredient in rice dishes made with basmati rice, such as Saffron Rice and Chicken Casserole (page 81), where it imparts a unique flavor to the dish. This aromatic spice is a delightful match for the wonderful fragrance of basmati rice. Whole mace is available in Indian or Middle Eastern grocery stores or online.

Mint

Mint is an aromatic, almost exclusively perennial herb with a very refreshing taste. Fresh mint is often used in Indian marinades, chutneys, drinks and desserts, as well as in certain curries and rice dishes. I also use dried mint for making breads in my kitchen. Chopped fresh mint leaves steeped in a cup of hot water with tea and honey is one of my favorite soothing after-dinner digestif beverages. The spearmint variety is most commonly used in Indian cooking. When purchasing mint, make sure the leaves are fresh and green in color without and black spots or cracks. See “Storage Tips for Spices and Herbs,” page 10.

Mustard Seeds

These tiny, round, hot and pungent seeds are from an annual plant of the cabbage family. They are available in white, yellow, brown, or black colors. The white seeds, the largest type, are used to make commercial mustards in the United States; and the yellow and brown seeds are used for European mustards and for pickling. In India, the black seeds are used in cooking and are the source of commonly used oil. Black mustard seeds are used whole and in powdered form. The whole seeds are used in vegetable dishes, curries, appetizers, salads, and dried legumes, while the powder is used to flavor steamed fish, pickles, and, again, curries. Mustard seeds are available at Indian grocery stores and online.

Oils and Fats

In Indian kitchens, oil is used alone or in combination with ghee (clarified butter) to fry flavorings at the start of cooking or to deep-fry foods. The oil used depends on the culture and region. When I call for oil, you many use any neutral-flavored vegetable oil (for example, canola, safflower or corn oil). In addition to using unflavored oils, Indians use toasted sesame oil, coconut oil, peanut and mustard oil to impart distinct flavors to dishes. I have not used these oils in my recipes as some are hard to find and they give a very distinct flavor to the food, which, though popular in India, can be an acquired taste for non-Indian. When I call for oil for deep-frying, it’s important to use an oil that is relatively stable at high temperatures, such as peanut oil or safflower oil. Additionally, olive oil, which is a very healthy oil, can also be used to cook Indian food.

Paprika

Known as Kashmiri mirch in India, paprika is a red powder made from

dried, mild, non-pungent chili peppers. It is mainly used for the rich red color it adds to curries. When added to hot oil, it immediately releases a deep red color. Most Indian paprika comes from Kashmir, hence the name. Kashmiri mirch is available at Indian grocery stores or online. The easily available, mild Hungarian paprika is a good substitute.

Peppercorns

Peppercorns range in color from white, green to black. White peppercorns are picked ripe, and their outer skin is removed. Green peppercorns are under-ripe berries that are cured in brine. Black peppercorns are picked under ripe and allowed to dry until dark black. Black peppercorns are most commonly used and impart an incredible flavor to all curries. The world’s top quality black pepper is grown in Indian in the southwest coastal state of Kerala, and is known as Tellicherry pepper. The recipes in this book call for dry and oil-roasted, ground and crushed black peppercorns.

Pulses see Dried Legumes

Rice

Rice is an indispensible part of Indian meals. It is served as a staple alongside curries and dals and is eaten at least twice a day in India. There are many distinctive kinds of rice grown and sold in the Indian subcontinent. For everyday meals, the type of rice used depends varies from region to region. While the people in southern regions prefer the locally available red rice or long-grain variety, northerners prefer the aromatic Basmati rice, which grows in the foothills of the Himalayas.

Basmati, which means “queen of fragrance” in Hindi, is the most popular and the best-known rice of India, and it is the most expensive. It has a wonderful fragrance when cooked with whole spices and is a good match for all Indian dishes. Basmati rice is always used for pulaos and biryanis—two types of rice dishes—for it absorbs flavors beautifully and yet keeps its shape during cooking. Basmati rice, though preferred, is not absolutely necessary when making simpler rice preparations, such as Rosemary Lemon Rice (page 74) or Mint Pilaf with Potatoes and Toasted Cumin (page 78). Whereas Basmati rice needs to be soaked prior to being rinsed and drained, ordinary long-grain rice only needs to be rinsed and drained.

Saffron

These intense yellow-orange threads are the dried orange-to-deep-red stigmas of a small purple flower of the saffron crocus, a member of the iris family. It is the world’s most expensive spice as it takes almost 75,000 handpicked blossoms to make one pound of saffron. Use saffron sparingly as it just takes four to five strands of saffron to flavor a dish that feeds four. It has a distinctly warm, rich, powerful and intense flavor. It is available in strands or ground. I recommend the strands for the sake of more assured quality. Gently heat saffron on a dry skillet before using as heat brings out its aroma. There is no acceptable substitute for saffron. Saffron is available in Indian or Middle Eastern grocery stores, gourmet stores and online.

Salt

The most common salt that is used in North America is table salt. It is very fine in texture and is often supplemented with iodine. Table salt, when compared to kosher or sea salt, is much saltier. Sea salt is the most popular salt used in Indian cooking. Measurements used in the recipes in this book are for common table salt. If you prefer to use kosher salt or sea salt, you will most likely need to increase the amount of salt by 10 to 15 percent. However, it is always a good idea to taste and check for seasoning before adding more.

Sesame Seeds

These tiny seeds are harvested from a flowering plant found in tropical regions around the world and is cultivated for its edible seeds. Whole or ground white sesame seeds are used in savory Indian dishes, breads and many sweets. Sometimes the seeds are toasted to heighten their nutty flavor. They come in a host of different colors, depending upon the variety, including white, yellow, black and red. In general, the paler varieties of sesame are used in the West and Middle East, while the black varieties are more common in the East. They are available in most grocery stores.

Star Anise

This dried, star-shaped, dark-brown pod contains licorice-flavored seeds. The pods grow on an evergreen tree that is a member of the magnolia family. Star anise is used to flavor and add an enticing aroma to both sweet and savory dishes. It is often used on its own or ground with different spices to make blends. This spice is available at Indian and Asian grocery stores, online and at many conventional supermarkets.

Tamarind

Tamarind is the curved brown bean pod of the tamarind tree. The pod contains a sticky pulp enclosing one to twelve shiny black seeds. It is the pulp that is used as a flavoring for its sweet-and-sour fruity aroma and taste. It is used in chutneys, preserves and curries. Tamarind is available in South Asian grocery stores, natural foods stores, and some conventional supermarkets in one or more of the following three ways: in pod form, pressed into a fibrous dried slab, or in jars of tamarind “paste” or “concentrate,” which has a jam-like consistency. I call for the tamarind paste in the recipes in this book simply because it is the most convenient form to use and is fairly easy to find.

Alternatively to create tamarind juice from the dried slab, soak a walnut-size chunk of the dried pulp (this is equivalent to 1 teaspoon of tama-rind paste) in ½ cup (125 ml) of warm water for 15 minutes. After soaking the pulp in water, break it up with your fingers, and then mash it with a fork until the liquid is muddy brown in appearance. Strain this mixture before use through a fine-mesh strainer. Using the back of spoon, mash and push the pulp through the fine-mesh strainer to extract any remaining juice.

Turmeric

It is a rhizome of a tropical plant in the ginger family. The fresh root is boiled, peeled, sun-dried, and ground into a bright yellow-orange powder. Ground turmeric has a warm, peppery aroma—reminiscent of ginger—and a strong, bitter taste, which mellows upon cooking. It is used to color many curries and is sometimes used as a “poor man’s substitute” for saffron due to the similar color it imparts; however, the taste is quite different.

Yogurt