Читать книгу The Taste of Britain - Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall - Страница 80

The Red Devon cattle of Exmoor, where the breed was developed, are on the small side; this is because they were expected to fatten on sparse moorland pasture which is susceptible to trampling into mud (the rainfall is very high) and responds well to the lightness of the Red Devons’ feet. Exmoor is now an Environmentally Sensitive Area. Breeders on the lower, lusher pastures of Somerset selected for larger cattle.

Recently, new blood from the French Saler breed (known sometimes as French Devons) has been used to improve conformation, particularly the quantity of fat carried on the brisket and at the top of the tail. The two strains have been interbred in the past, the Devon contributing genes to the Salers in the 1800s.

Animals destined for beef are slaughtered from the age of 18 months. Some butchers prefer an older animal, of about 3 years. Older cattle were favoured for beef production in Britain in the past, but in previous centuries they worked as draught animals for some years prior to slaughter. At present, the returns for keeping cattle at pasture longer than absolutely necessary are low. Devons are cross-bred with various dairy cattle including Friesians, whose offspring are known as black steers or heifers.