The texture of this soup is so velvety; it can be eaten simply as a snack but is also elegant enough for a dinner party. If you want to make it even more sophisticated, you can serve it with seared scallops. The use of curry powder with cauliflower certainly isn’t a new combination – it helps to offset the soup’s richness. The most important thing with this soup, however, is the cooking. You wouldn’t overcook cauliflower normally, so don’t do it when it’s in a soup.

SERVES 4

VEGETARIAN

30g (1¼ oz) butter

1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed

½ white onion, peeled and diced

225g (8oz) potatoes, peeled and diced

½ tsp mild curry powder

75ml (3fl oz) white wine

750ml (1 pint 6fl oz) vegetable stock

1 large cauliflower, cut into florets

100g (3½ oz) diced leek (white part only)

2 slices of white bread (crusts removed), cut into cubes

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

200ml (7fl oz) double cream

Salt and black pepper

1. Melt the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat and when it starts to foam, add the garlic and onion and fry, without browning, for 2–3 minutes.

2. Add the potatoes, curry powder, white wine and stock and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Add the cauliflower and leek and simmer for a further 6–8 minutes or until the cauliflower is just cooked.

3. Meanwhile, place a small frying pan over a high heat and sauté the bread in the olive oil for 2–3 minutes or until browned, then drain on kitchen paper and set aside.

4. Pour the cream into the saucepan and bring back up to the boil, then remove from the heat and allow to cool for 2–3 minutes. Transfer the contents of the pan to a food processor or blender and purée until smooth. Pour the soup back into the pan and gently bring to a simmer, then season with salt and pepper.

5. Divide between bowls, then sprinkle with the croûtons, drizzle with olive oil and serve immediately.

LEEK AND ROCKET SOUP WITH GOAT’S CHEESE

This classic combination of flavours is a favourite of many. It’s important to pay close attention to the cooking time because if you cook the soup for too long you will lose the flavours and the colour. This soup is also good served cold, but it may be a good idea to add a little more liquid, as the texture tends to change and thicken as it cools. I like to use Mrs Wecksby’s goat’s cheese, or Perroche goat’s cheese from Neal’s Yard, but any other soft goat’s cheese will do fine too.

SERVES 4

VEGETARIAN

1–2 tbsp olive oil

1 large potato, peeled and cut into small dice

1 white onion, peeled and roughly chopped

1 sprig of thyme

2 leeks, trimmed and chopped

1 litre (1¾ pints) vegetable stock

150ml (5fl oz) double cream

100g (3½oz) rocket leaves

Salt and black pepper

TO SERVE

200g (7oz) soft goat’s cheese

1 sprig of chervil, chopped

1. Place a heavy-based pan over a medium heat, pour in the olive oil and add the potato, onion and thyme, then sauté, without browning, for 2–3 minutes. Add the leeks and cook for 1 further minute. Pour in the stock and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes.

2. Pour in the cream and bring back up to the boil, then remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. Pour the soup into a blender and pulse until smooth, then add the rocket leaves and pulse again. Transfer the soup back into the pan and gently bring to a simmer, then season with salt and pepper.

3. Divide the soup between bowls, crumble over the goat’s cheese, garnish with the chervil and serve.

PISTOU SOUP

A great classic soup with pesto added right at the end, this is easy to make and nice as a starter or a simple snack. It’s definitely a summer soup and you should always use the very best fresh summer vegetables to give maximum colour and flavour. I mix and match the pasta, as it’s a good way to use up broken or leftover bits. The best pistou soup I have come across was in Nice. Not surprising when you consider that the ingredients in its famous Niçoise salad are pretty similar to the ingredients for pistou.

SERVES 6–8

11 plum tomatoes

100g (3½oz) frozen broad beans

4 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, peeled and chopped

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped

1 leek, trimmed and diced

2 carrots, peeled and diced

2 courgettes, topped, tailed and diced

2 potatoes, peeled and diced

1 x 250g can of haricot beans, drained and rinsed

75g (3oz) dried spaghetti

75g (3oz) French beans, topped and tailed and cut into 4 pieces

100g (3½oz) frozen peas

Salt and black pepper

1 handful of basil leaves, to garnish

FOR THE PISTOU

60g (2½oz) fresh basil leaves

4 cloves of garlic, peeled

1 skinned, deseeded and chopped tomato (reserved from step 5)

75g (3oz) grated Parmesan cheese

135ml (4½fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil

1. Score a cross in the bottom of each tomato, place in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave for 45 seconds, then drain and peel off the skin. Cut the tomatoes into quarters, remove the seeds and chop the flesh. Blanch the broad beans for 2–3 minutes in boiling water, then refresh in cold water and peel off the skins.

2. Place a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, add the olive oil and all the chopped and diced vegetables except the tomatoes and fry, without browning, for 4–5 minutes.

3. Add the haricot beans, fill with enough water to cover, and bring to the boil.

4. Meanwhile, wrap the spaghetti in a clean tea towel and crush it on the edge of a worktop, pressing it backwards and forwards to break it into small pieces, then add these to the soup.

5. Add all but one of the chopped tomatoes (reserving this last one for the pistou), bring back up to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes or until the pasta is cooked. After 10–11 minutes, add the French beans, broad beans and peas. (It’s best to add these at the end of cooking in order to preserve their fresh colour.)

6. While the soup is cooking, place all the pistou ingredients in a blender and purée to a paste.

7. Remove the soup from the heat and stir in the pistou. Season well with salt and pepper and serve straight away.

CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP WITH ROASTED VINE TOMATOES

It was tomatoes that got me interested in food in the first place; as a kid, the smell of them growing in my grandad’s greenhouse intoxicated me. I still love them so much and the first thing I did when I last moved house was to build my own greenhouse in which to grow them. Every time I open the door the smell sends me back 30 years. For this soup, the tomatoes must be the best you can get, and vine tomatoes are ideal because they are usually the freshest.

SERVES 4

VEGETARIAN

1.5kg (3lb 4oz) vine tomatoes

100g (3½oz) butter

½ large onion, peeled and chopped

3 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped

1 stick of celery, trimmed and chopped

2 tbsp tomato ketchup

2 tbsp tomato purée

1 sprig of thyme

200ml (7fl oz) double cream, plus extra to serve (optional)

Salt and black pepper

FOR THE ROASTED VINE TOMATOES

4 bunches of 3–4 small vine tomatoes

2–3 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas 6.

2. Remove the 1.5kg (3lb 4oz) of tomatoes from the vines and chop each tomato into 6, keeping the vines.

3. Melt half the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, then add the onion, tomatoes, garlic and celery. Add the ketchup and tomato purée, cover with a lid and bring to the boil.

4. Strip the thyme leaves from the stalks and add the leaves to the pan, reduce the heat to a simmer, then place the vines from the tomatoes on the top, cover with the lid and simmer for 15 minutes. (Be careful not to let it boil, as the vegetables may catch on the bottom of the pan.)

5. Meanwhile, place the 4 bunches of small vine tomatoes (keeping them on the vines) on a baking tray, drizzle with the olive oil and the vinegar, season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for 5–6 minutes or until softened.

6. Remove the lid from the saucepan, discard the vines and pour in the cream. Remove from the heat, transfer to a blender and pulse until smooth, then pass though a sieve to remove the tomato seeds. Pour the soup back into the pan and reheat gently, trying not to let it boil, then season well with salt and pepper.

7. Serve the soup with a bunch of roasted vine tomatoes in the bottom of each bowl and, if you like, a spoonful of cream swirled on top of the soup.

MUSHROOM SOUP WITH CORIANDER CRESS

I remember going mushroom picking in the New Forest when I was a junior chef. The head chef said it was an inspiring exercise – looking back now, I can see his point, but I also reckon it was cheap forced labour! Fast forward 20 years however, and I’m still doing it. Most recently I went with Nick Nairn up in Scotland. Rowing across the loch on our way to find mushrooms, neither of us exactly looked like Captain Jack Sparrow, but the treasure we came back with was much better than pirate gold – delicious fresh wild mushrooms with a great intense flavour.

SERVES 4

1kg (2lb 3oz) field mushrooms

100ml (3½fl oz) rapeseed oil

2 large shallots, peeled and chopped

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped

Juice of ½ lemon

500ml (18fl oz) chicken stock

250ml (9fl oz) double cream

125g (4½oz) butter, diced

250g (9oz) mixed wild mushrooms (such as chanterelle, cep, trompette, girolle or oyster)

5g (¼oz) chervil, chopped

50g (2oz) coriander cress or micro salad leaves

Salt and black pepper

1. Remove the stalks from the field mushrooms and, using a spoon, scrape away and discard the dark gills, then cut the mushrooms into slices about 5mm (¼ in) thick.

2. Place a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, pour in half the rapeseed oil, then add the shallots and garlic and cook for 1–2 minutes or until softened. Add the sliced mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 3–4 minutes.

3. Stir in the lemon juice then pour in the stock, bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

4. Transfer the contents of the pan into a blender and whizz to a smooth purée – this should take a good 2–3 minutes. Pour back into the pan, add the cream and mix thoroughly. Gently warm over a low heat, then stir in the diced butter, adjust the seasoning, if needed, and keep warm on the hob.

5. Pour the remainder of the oil into a frying pan over a medium heat and sauté the mixed wild mushrooms for about 3 minutes or until cooked through, then season and set aside.

6. To serve, divide the cooked wild mushrooms between bowls, ladle over the soup and sprinkle with the chervil and coriander cress or micro salad leaves.

CULLEN SKINK

This Scottish soup from the town of Cullen in Moray is one of those great classic soups, with most of its flavour provided by the main ingredient – smoked haddock. Traditionally, it should be made with Finnan Haddie, which is smoked haddock from Findon near Aberdeen, but any other natural smoked haddock will do.

SERVES 4

2 Arbroath Smokies

75g (3oz) unsalted butter

2 banana shallots, peeled and finely chopped

100g (3½oz) diced leek (white part only)

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped

200g (7oz) waxy boiled potatoes, peeled

1 litre (1¾ pints) fish stock

100ml (3½fl oz) white wine

200ml (7fl oz) milk

125ml (4½fl oz) double cream

Black pepper

2 tsp chopped chives, to garnish

1. Remove the skin and bones from the fish and flake the flesh.

2. Melt a third of the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, then add the shallots, leek and garlic. Cover the pan with a lid and sweat, without browning, for 5–10 minutes.

3. Cut the potatoes into 2cm (¾ in) dice and add to the vegetables, together with three-quarters of the flaked fish (reserving the remaining quarter for later). Cover again with the lid and cook for a further 2 minutes, then pour in the stock and wine. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 8 minutes.

4. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly before carefully transferring the mixture to a blender. Whizz for a few seconds, then add the milk and cream, a little at a time, and blend for 4–5 minutes or until the mixture is very smooth, then pass through a sieve into a clean pan.

5. Gently reheat then add the remaining fish and butter and season well with pepper. Divide between bowls, scatter over the chopped chives and serve with some warm crusty bread.

BEEF MADRAS CURRY

I think India should be on everybody’s list of places to visit, to experience the amazing range of foods and the many different people who live there. This curry takes its name from the city of Madras, in the south of India. It can be made with most meats or it can also be vegetarian. As with most Indian dishes, there were many variations but this was my favourite, from a small café and just served with flatbread. I had the recipe translated into English so that you can enjoy it as much as I did.

SERVES 4–6

800g (1¾ lb) stewing beef, cut into 2.5cm (1in) dice

4–5 tbsp vegetable oil

1 green chilli, deseeded and chopped

1 clove of garlic, peeled and chopped

2cm (¾ in) piece of root ginger, peeled and chopped

1 onion, peeled and finely sliced

12 curry leaves

3 cardamon pods, crushed

2 bay leaves

1 x 400g can of chopped tomatoes

200ml (7fl oz) beef stock

3 tbsp tamarind paste

25g (1oz) butter

25g (1oz) flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Salt and black pepper

1. For the madras curry powder, place all of the whole spices in a spice grinder or coffee grinder, or use a pestle and mortar, and grind to a fine powder, then mix with the ground turmeric and vegetable oil.

2. Next, season the beef all over with salt and pepper. Heat 1–2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large, non-stick saucepan and, over a high heat, sear roughly a third or a half of the beef pieces for 1–2 minutes or until golden brown. Fry the rest of the beef in 1–2 more batches, removing each batch from the pan when the meat is browned and placing it on a plate while you fry the remaining pieces, adding more oil as needed.

3. Blend the chilli, garlic and ginger to a paste using a hand-held blender or a pestle and mortar and adding a splash of water if necessary.

4. Place the pan used to seal the beef back over a high heat, add 1–2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil and the onion and fry for 5 minutes or until softened and starting to brown. Add 3½ tablespoons of the curry powder, along with the chilli, garlic and ginger paste, the curry leaves, cardamom and bay leaves, then stir the mixture well.

FOR THE MADRAS CURRY POWDER

2 tbsp coriander seeds

2 tbsp fenugreek seeds

1 tbsp black mustard seeds

1 tsp cumin seeds

½ tsp fennel seeds

1 tsp black peppercorns

1 cinnamon stick

5 cloves

1 tbsp ground turmeric

2 tbsp vegetable oil

FOR THE FRIED SHALLOTS

3 shallots, peeled and finely sliced

2 tbsp plain flour

100ml (3½fl oz) vegetable oil

5. Tip in the beef and cover with the chopped tomatoes, stock and tamarind paste, then season with salt and pepper. Cover the pan with a lid and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 hours or until the beef is very tender. Alternatively, cook in the oven, preheated to 140C° (275°F), Gas 1, for 2 hours, or in a slow cooker for 3–4 hours.

6. For the fried shallots, first dust the shallots in the flour. Place a frying pan over a high heat, pour in the vegetable oil and fry the shallots for 2–3 minutes or until crisp and golden brown. Remove from the oil and drain on kitchen paper.

7. Remove the lid from the curry pan, stir in the butter and chopped parsley and season to taste. Spoon the beef on to plates with some of the crispy shallots on top and serve with some plain boiled rice on the side.

BEEF BOURGUIGNON

Classic dishes shouldn’t be messed about with. Beef bourguignon is one of those classics and this recipe has come via the long road from my training days in France. In between the pints of French bière I got a lot of practice at dishes like hake beurre blanc, duck gizzards salads and lemon tarts, and of course this one. It’s still exactly the same as it was back then, just as it should be.

SERVES 4

2 tbsp plain flour

1kg (2lb 3oz) braising steak, cut into 2.5cm (1in) dice

4–5 tbsp olive oil

150g (5oz) pancetta, cut into small chunks

1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped

2 onions, peeled and sliced

1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

75ml (3fl oz) brandy

500ml (18fl oz) red wine

1 litre (1¾ pints) beef stock

1 bouquet garni (2 bay leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, 2 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley)

115g (4oz) baby onions

25g (1oz) butter

Salt and black pepper

1. Season the flour with salt and pepper and toss the beef in it. Place a large, non-stick frying pan over a high heat, add 1–2 tablespoons of olive oil and fry the beef for 1–2 minutes in batches, removing each batch from the pan when browned and placing it on a plate while you fry the rest, adding more oil as needed. (Too much meat in the pan at once will mean it takes longer to brown.)

2. Add the pancetta and fry for 1–2 minutes or until golden brown, then tip in the shallot, onions and garlic and fry for a further 2–3 minutes or until browned. Return the cooked beef to the pan and mix well with the other ingredients.

3. Pour in the brandy and carefully set it alight to burn off the alcohol, then add the wine and stock and bring to a simmer. Add the bouquet garni, then cover and cook on a low heat for 2 hours or until tender and thickened. Alternatively, cook in the oven at 140°C (275°F), Gas 1, for 2 hours, or in a slow cooker for 3–4 hours.

4. Half an hour before the meat is cooked, blanch the baby onions in boiling water for 30 seconds, then peel. Place a separate frying pan over a high heat, add the butter and a little olive oil and fry the onions for 2–3 minutes or until just golden, then add to the casserole for the last 20 minutes of cooking time.

5. Just before serving, check the seasoning. Spoon a generous portion of beef bourguignon on to each plate and a pile of Creamy Potato Mash alongside, together with some green beans or Vichy Carrots.

COURGETTE, TOMATO AND BASIL PIE WITH DORSTONE CHEESE

Dorstone is a cheese I came across once at a farmers’ market, made by Charlie Westhead of Neal’s Yard Dairy. It’s an unpasteurised goat’s cheese made in Herefordshire, with a moist, fluffy texture and coated in ash. If you can’t get it, don’t worry; a non-chalky goat’s cheese will do fine, even a French Crottin.

SERVES 4

2–3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for oiling

4 courgettes, topped and tailed and sliced lengthways

1 x 250g jar of sun-blushed tomatoes, drained

2 banana shallots, peeled and chopped

2 cloves of garlic, peeled

6 large basil leaves, torn

200g (7oz) firm goat’s cheese, such as Dorstone or Ogleshield

Plain flour, for dusting

200g (7oz) ready-rolled all-butter puff pastry

1 egg, beaten

Salt and black pepper

ONE 25CM (10IN) OVENPROOF DISH

1. Preheat the oven 170°C (325°F), Gas 3, and oil the ovenproof dish with olive oil.

2. Lay the courgettes on a baking tray, season with salt and pepper and drizzle with the olive oil. Bake in the oven for 10 minutes or until they start to turn golden brown, then remove from the oven and allow to cool.

3. Place the tomatoes, shallots, garlic and basil leaves in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Add the baked courgettes and mix well, then crumble over the cheese and set aside.

4. On a clean, lightly floured work surface, lay out the pastry and cut out a circle 2cm (¾ in) wider all round than the ovenproof dish. Place the courgette mix in the dish, then brush the edges of the dish with some of the beaten egg and lay the pastry on top, pressing the edges of the pastry on to the rim of the dish. Trim away any excess pastry and brush the top of the pie with the remaining egg.

5. Bake in the oven for about 20 minutes or until the pastry is golden brown, then remove and serve immediately.

JAMES’S SHEPHERD’S PIE

Who says British food isn’t great? I keep saying to people and young chefs that the best way to move forward in terms of cooking is often to look back. Shepherd’s Pie with garden peas is a dinner my mother used to cook all the time and still does. Look out for minced lamb that isn’t fatty as this will make it much better. And don’t put too much liquid in the mash or it will be too soft and the potatoes will just sink into the meat mixture.

SERVES 4

1–2 tbsp olive oil

1.5kg (3lb 4oz) boneless shoulder of lamb

300g (11oz) baby onions, blanched and peeled (see method on page 20)

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped

4 sprigs of rosemary

500ml (18fl oz) red wine

500ml (18fl oz) beef stock

75g (3oz) butter

25g (1oz) plain flour

Salt and black pepper

FOR THE MASH TOPPING

500g (1lb 2oz) large floury potatoes, such as King Edward, peeled and cut into quarters

50g (2oz) butter

100ml (3½fl oz) whole milk

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas 6. Heat the olive oil in a large casserole dish, season the lamb with salt and pepper on both sides, then seal the meat all over on a high heat for 1–2 minutes or until nicely browned.

2. Remove the lamb from the pot and add the baby onions, frying these for 2–3 minutes or until golden, then add the garlic and 3 sprigs of rosemary.

3. Place the lamb back in the pot on top of the onions and rosemary, then pour in the wine and stock. Smear a third of the butter over the lamb and place the remaining rosemary sprig on top. Roast in the oven, uncovered, for 2 hours or until tender and crispy on top.

4. Meanwhile, make the mashed potato for the topping following the instructions for Creamy Potato Mash on page 179.

5. When the lamb is cooked, remove from the pot and strain the juices into a small saucepan set over a medium heat, keeping the onions for later. Mix the flour and remaining butter together to form a paste, then break into pieces and add to the juices in the pan, whisking until you have a thick gravy. Tear the meat into large chunks and place in the ovenproof dish. Add the reserved onions and pour over the thickened juices.

6. Put the mashed potato into a piping bag and pipe or spoon it over the meat and spread evenly with a fork. Bake in the oven for 25 minutes or until the top is golden brown. Serve with purple sprouting broccoli and Vichy Carrots.

CHICKEN AND WILD MUSHROOM PIE

You can make this chicken pie either with brown or white meat or a combination of both. The same goes for the mushrooms – use either fresh or dried or whatever you can get hold of. Porcini, ceps and morels are the classics to put with chicken, or for something different you could replace them with water chestnuts. Fresh tarragon is much better than dried for this recipe, but do remember that it’s a strongly flavoured herb, so don’t add too much.

SERVES 6–8

375g (13oz) ready-rolled all-butter puff pastry

1 egg, beaten

FOR THE FILLING

1 x 1.5kg (31b 4oz) chicken

2 onions, peeled and finely chopped

1 bay leaf

1 tbsp olive oil

75g (3oz) butter

2 tbsp plain flour

350g (12oz) wild mushrooms (such as chanterelle, cep, trompette, girolle or oyster)

150ml (5fl oz) white wine

150ml (5fl oz) double cream

4 sprigs of tarragon, leaves only

Salt and black pepper

ONE 20 X 30CM (8 X 12IN) PIE DISH OR OVENPROOF DISH

1. Place the chicken in a large saucepan with half the onions and the bay leaf. Season with a little salt and pepper and cover with water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 45 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through.

2. Remove the chicken from the pan and set aside to cool. Return the pan to the hob and cook the stock on a rapid boil for a further 30 minutes or until it has reduced by half. Meanwhile, remove the meat from the chicken legs, thighs and carcass, then place in the pie dish.

3. Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas 7. Heat the olive oil and butter in a large frying pan, add the remaining onions and cook over a low–medium heat, without browning, for about 5 minutes or until softened, then add the flour. Turn up the heat then add the mushrooms and cook for a further 3–4 minutes.

4. Strain the stock, then add to the mushrooms and cook for 1 minute. Pour in the wine and cream, then bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Season, then pour it over the chicken and sprinkle tarragon leaves over the top.

5. Cut out a disc of pastry 2cm (¾ in) wider all round than the pie dish. Brush the edges of the dish with beaten egg and lay the pastry on top, crimping the edges with a fork or your fingertips. Trim away any excess pastry and brush the top of the pie with the remaining egg. Place on a baking tray and bake for 30–35 minutes or until the pastry is crisp and golden. Then remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly before serving with new potatoes and French beans.

BEEF SHIN AND CARROT PIES

This pie is best made with Hereford beef, a breed that originated in the UK but is now farmed everywhere from Russia to South America. The cows have a deep red coat and fantastic horns, and their meat is highly prized. We use Hereford beef in the restaurant for our steaks, as the meat has an excellent grain. If you can’t find it, any breed will do, as it’s the long slow cooking that really gives this pie its flavour – the longer you cook it for, the better it will taste. I suggest serving the pie with French beans or shallots.

SERVES 4

800g (1¾lb) trimmed beef shin or flank, cut into 3cm (1¼ in) dice

2 tbsp plain flour

4–5 tbsp olive oil

30g (1¼oz) butter

1 onion, peeled and finely chopped

1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed

1 tbsp tomato purée

200ml (7fl oz) Guinness

500ml (18fl oz) beef stock

1 tsp chopped thyme leaves

1 bay leaf 300g (11oz) small Chantenay carrots, trimmed and kept whole

Salt and black pepper

FOR THE PASTRY

225g (8oz) self-raising flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting

1 tsp salt

90g (3¼oz) shredded beef suet

60g (2½oz) lard or butter, chilled and grated

1 egg, beaten

FOUR 500ML (18FL OZ) PIE DISHES

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas 6. Lightly dust the meat with flour, salt and pepper. Heat 1–2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan or saucepan, add the meat in batches, using more of the oil if needed, and seal over a high heat for 1–2 minutes or until nicely browned. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

2. Melt the butter in the pan, add the onion and garlic and fry for 2–3 minutes or until browned, then stir in the tomato purée. Slowly add the beer and stock, stirring constantly to prevent lumps forming in the cooking liquid. Add the thyme, bay leaf and browned beef, bring back up to the boil, then reduce the heat, cover with a lid and simmer gently for 2 hours or until the meat is tender.

3. After 90 minutes add the carrots and continue to cook for 30 minutes. Place in the pie dishes and leave to cool.

4. To make the pastry, mix the flour and salt with the suet and grated lard or butter in a large bowl. Mix in 150–175ml of water and knead for 1 minute or until you have a smooth dough.

5. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the pastry to about 7mm (¹/3 in) thick and cut out 4 discs about 2cm (¾ in) wider all the way round than the pie dishes. Brush the edges of the dishes with a little beaten egg and lay the pastry on top, crimping the edges using a fork or with your fingers and trimming away any excess pastry, then brush the top of the pies with the remaining beaten egg.

6. Bake in the oven for 40–50 minutes or until golden, then serve with buttered mashed potato and French beans.

SALMON AND MUSSEL PIE

I tend to use mash on this seafood pie, because puff pastry doesn’t always cook properly. If you do prefer pastry though, you can substitute it, but don’t cheat and do that rubbish dry dustbin lid plonked on the top, I hate that! A pie should have the filling and top cooked all together, as it tastes so much better when made as a whole. You can also leave out the capers and gherkins if you want.

SERVES 4

1–2 tbsp olive oil

500g (1lb 2oz) salmon fillet, pin bones and skin removed

1kg (2lb 3oz) mussels, cooked and removed from their shells

50g (2oz) gherkins, drained and chopped

25g (1oz) capers, drained

4 tsp chopped flat-leaf parsley

4 tsp chopped dill

4 tsp chopped chervil

3 banana shallots, peeled and finely sliced

200ml (7fl oz) double cream

Salt and black pepper

FOR THE MASH TOPPING

500g (1lb 2oz) large floury potatoes, such as King Edward, peeled and cut into quarters

50g (2oz) butter

100ml (3½fl oz) whole milk

ONE 20 X 30CM (8 X 12IN) PIE DISH OR OVENPROOF DISH

1. Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F), Gas 3.

2. Cook and mash the potatoes for the topping following the instructions for Creamy Potato Mash on page 179.

3. While the potatoes are cooking, place a non-stick ovenproof pan over a medium heat, add the olive oil and the salmon and seal on both sides, then bake in the oven for about 8 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely.

4. In a large bowl, mix together the mussel meat, gherkins, capers and herbs, then add the sliced shallots. Once the salmon is cool enough to handle, lift it from the pan and flake the meat into the bowl. (Some parts of the flesh may not be completely cooked but this doesn’t matter as it will be fully cooked in the pie.) Mix all this together, then stir in the cream, season with salt and pepper and transfer to the pie dish.

5. Put the mashed potato into a piping bag and pipe it over the salmon mixture or spoon the potato over the top of the fish mix and spread it out evenly with a fork. Bake in the oven for 25 minutes or until the top of the pie is golden brown.

6. Remove the pie from the oven and serve with Minted Peas.

SCALLOP AND FENNEL PIES

Why use pie dishes when the scallop shells look just as good? The best scallops for this are of course hand-dived: they are better for the environment, as dredging destroys the seabed and also fills the scallops with grit. Some of the best scallops I’ve eaten were from Scotland’s west coast and from Ireland, but many are imported from America for some reason. Never freeze scallops, as they soak up water like a sponge and then when you cook them they dump all that water in the pan.

MAKES 4 ‘PIES’

4 large hand-dived scallops

1 fennel bulb

2 tbsp finely chopped chives

25g (1oz) butter 1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped

50ml (2fl oz) white wine

100ml (3½fl oz) double cream

100g (3½oz) ready-rolled all-butter puff pastry

1 egg, beaten

Salt and black pepper

Coarse sea salt, to serve

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas 6. Insert a sharp knife between the two halves of each scallop shell, then slice between the shells and pull them apart. Pull off the outer membrane and carefully remove the coral and white part of the scallop, dabbing them dry on kitchen paper.

2. Place the corals in a saucepan, add the top sprigs from the fennel bulb and half cover with water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 4–5 minutes. While the corals are cooking, clean and wash the scallop shells and, using a mandolin or a sharp knife, slice the fennel very thinly and set aside in a bowl with the chopped chives.

3. Melt the butter in a small frying pan and gently cook the shallot for 3–4 minutes or until softened but not browned. Add the white wine and drain the liquor from the cooked corals into the pan. Pour in the cream and bring to the boil. Boil until the liquid thickens, having reduced by about half, then season.

4. Place a pile of fennel and chives in each of the lower (more rounded) scallop shells, slice each scallop in half and place on top. Spoon over the sauce and cover with the top (flat) shells.

5. Lay out the pastry and cut into 4 strips each about 4 x 40cm (1½ x 16 in). Using a little beaten egg, brush the edges of each pair of shells where they join and wrap a strip of pastry around the edges to seal the two halves together. Brush well with the remaining egg, then carefully place on a baking tray and bake in the oven for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, place on a pile of sea salt and serve.

CHICKEN CURRY

I’ve worked with many Indian chefs over the years and it has been a privilege to learn from them, as Indian food can be so complex. Yuri, one of my head chefs, is great at quickly knocking up a simple curry. This is a dish we used to make towards the end of a night’s service so that, after the guests had gone, the full team could sit down in the restaurant and dive in.

SERVES 4–6

1 tsp ground turmeric

1 tsp ground coriander

½ tsp ground cloves

50g (2oz) plain flour

1 large chicken, cut into 10 pieces (see method on pages 62–3)

3–4 tbsp vegetable oil

½ cinnamon stick

10 curry leaves

8 black peppercorns

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 tbsp peeled and grated root ginger

1 x 400ml can of coconut milk

Salt and black pepper

1. Mix the ground spices and flour in a bowl and season with salt and pepper, then toss the chicken pieces in the spiced flour and set aside.

2. Place a large frying pan over a medium heat, add half the vegetable oil and fry the cinnamon stick, curry leaves and peppercorns for 30 seconds. Add the onion and ginger and fry for 5 minutes or until browned, then transfer to a bowl and put the pan back on the hob.

3. When the pan is hot again, pour in the remaining oil and seal the chicken pieces on all sides until browned. Add the onion and ginger back to the pan, stir in the coconut milk and simmer over a gentle heat for about 25–30 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through.

4. Remove from the heat, taste for seasoning and serve. This dish is great with broccoli and rice or even chips.

‘Never hurry a good curry.’

VIVEK SINGH

Masterclass Text Only: Make Your Home Cooking Easier

Подняться наверх