Читать книгу Frommer’s EasyGuide to the Big Island of Hawaii - Jeanne Cooper - Страница 5

Akaka Falls in Hilo

Larger than all the other Hawaiian Islands combined, the Big Island truly deserves its nickname. Its 4,029 square miles—a figure that has grown recently, thanks to one of its three active volcanoes—contain 10 of the world’s 13 climate zones. In less than a day, a visitor can easily traverse tropical rainforest, lava desert, verdant pastures, misty uplands, and chilly tundra, the last near the summit of Mauna Kea, almost 14,000 feet above sea level. The shoreline also boasts diversity, from golden beaches to enchanting coves with black, salt-and-pepper, even olivine sand. Above all, the island home of Kamehameha the Great and Pele, the volcano goddess, is big in mana: power and spirituality.

Essentials

Arriving

The Big Island has two major airports for interisland and trans-Pacific jet traffic: Kona and Hilo.

Most people arrive at Kona International Airport (KOA; hawaii.gov/koa) in Keahole, the island’s westernmost point, and can be forgiven for wondering if there’s really a runway among all the crinkly black lava and golden fountain grass. Leaving the airport, the ritzy Kohala Coast is to the left (north) and the town of Kailua-Kona—often just called “Kona,” as is the airport—is to the right (south).

U.S. carriers offering nonstop service to Kona, in alphabetical order, are Alaska Airlines (www.alaskaair.com; 800/252-7522), with flights from the Pacific Northwest hubs of Seattle, Portland, and Anchorage (plus Nov–Apr from Bellingham, Washington) and from Sacramento, San Diego, San Francisco, San Jose, and Oakland, California; American Airlines (www.aa.com; 800/433-7300), departing from Dallas–Fort Worth, Los Angeles, and Phoenix; Delta Air Lines (www.delta.com; 800/221-1212), flying from Los Angeles and Seattle; Hawaiian Airlines (www.hawaiianairlines.com; 800/367-5320), departing from Los Angeles; and United Airlines (www.united.com; 800/241-6522), with flights from Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Denver. At press time, Southwest Airlines (www.southwest.com; 800/435-9792) was planning nonstop service to Kona from California and had already begun connecting service through Honolulu from Oakland and San Jose.

Air Canada (www.aircanada.com; 888/247-2267) and WestJet (www.westjet.com; 888/937-8358) also offer nonstop service to Kona, with frequency changing seasonally, from Vancouver. Japan Airlines also offers weekly nonstop service from the mainland to Hilo International Airport (ITO; hawaii.gov/ito), via Los Angeles.

For connecting flights or island-hopping, Hawaiian and Southwest (see above) are the only carriers offering inter-island jet service. Hawaiian flies several times a day from Honolulu and Kahului, Maui, to both Kona and Hilo airports; it also flies daily nonstop between Kauai and Kona Hawaiian’s Ohana by Hawaiian subsidiary flies from Kona and Hilo to Kahului on 48-passenger, twin-engine turboprops. Mokulele Airlines (www.mokuleleairlines.com; 866/260-4040) flies nine-passenger, single-engine turboprops to Kona from Maui’s Kahului and Kapalua airports, and to Waimea (Kamuela) from Kahului. Note: Mokulele weighs passengers and their carry-ons to determine seats; those totaling 350 lb. or more are not allowed to board.

Visitor Information

The Big Island Visitors Bureau (www.gohawaii.com/big-island; 800/648-2441) has an office on the Kohala Coast in the Shops at Mauna Lani, 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr., Suite 109B, Mauna Lani Resort ( 808/885-1655).

This Week (www.thisweekhawaii.com/big-island) and 101 Things to Do: Big Island (www.101thingstodo.com/big-island) are free publications that offer good, useful information amid the advertisements, as well as discount coupons for a variety of island adventures. Copies are easy to find all around the island.

Kona Coast

Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park

Konaweb.com has an extensive event calendar and handy links to sites and services around the island, not just the Kona side. Those fascinated by the island’s active volcanoes—including Kilauea, which saw dramatic eruptions at its summit and in lower Puna between May and September 2018—should check out the updates, maps, photos, videos, and webcams on the U.S. Geological Survey’s Hawaiian Volcano Observatory website (hvo.wr.usgs.gov), which also tracks the island’s frequent but usually minor earthquake activity.

The Island in Brief

The Kona Coast

Kona means “leeward side” in Hawaiian—and that means hot, dry weather virtually every day of the year on the 70-mile stretch of black lava shoreline encompassing the North and South Kona districts.

North Kona With the exception of the sumptuous but serenely low-key Four Seasons Resort Hualalai north of the airport, most of what everyone just calls “Kona” is an affordable vacation spot. An ample selection of midpriced condo units, timeshares, and several recently upgraded hotels lies between the bustling commercial district of Kailua-Kona , a one-time fishing village and royal compound now renowned as the start and finish of the Ironman World Championship, and Keauhou, an equally historic area about 6 miles south that boasts upscale condominiums, a shopping center, and golf-course homes.

The rightly named Alii (“Royalty”) Drive begins in Kailua-Kona near King Kamehameha’s royal compound at Kamakahonu Bay, which includes the off-limits temple complex of Ahuena Heiau, and continues past Hulihee Palace , an elegant retreat for later royals that sits across from the oldest church in the islands. Heading south, the road passes by the snorkelers’ haven of Kahaluu Beach , as well as sacred and royal sites on the former Keauhou Beach Resort, before the intersection with King Kamehameha III Road, which leads to that monarch’s birthplace by Keauhou Bay. Several kayak excursions and snorkel boats leave from Keauhou, but Kailua Pier sees the most traffic—from cruise-ship tenders to fishing and dive boats, dinner cruises, and other sightseeing excursions.

Beaches between Kailua-Kona and Keauhou tend to be pocket coves, but heading north toward South Kohala (which begins near the entrance to the Waikoloa Beach Resort), beautiful, uncrowded sands lie out of sight from the highway, often reached by unpaved roads across vast lava fields. Among the steep coffee fields in North Kona’s cooler upcountry, you’ll find the rustic, artsy village of Holualoa.

South Kona The rural, serrated coastline here is indented with numerous bays, from Kealakekua, a marine life and cultural preserve that’s the island’s best diving spot, down to Honaunau, where a national historical park recalls the days of old Hawaii. This is a great place to stay, in modest plantation-era inns or bed-and-breakfasts, if you want to get away from crowds but still be within driving distance of beaches and Kailua-Kona—you may hear the all-night cheeping of coqui frogs, though. The higher, cooler elevation of the main road means you’ll pass many coffee, macadamia nut, and tropical fruit farms, some with tours or roadside stands.

The Kohala Coast

Also on the island’s “Kona side,” sunny and dry Kohala is divided into two distinctively different districts, although the resorts are more glamorous and the rural area that much less developed.

South Kohala Pleasure domes rise like palaces no Hawaiian king ever imagined along the sandy beaches carved into the craggy shores here, from the more moderately priced Waikoloa Beach Resort at Anaehoomalu Bay to the posher Mauna Lani and Mauna Kea resorts to the north. Mauna Kea is where Laurance Rockefeller opened the area’s first resort in 1965, a mirage of opulence and tropical greenery rising from bleak, black lava fields, framed by the white sands of Kaunaoa Beach and views of the mountain. But you don’t have to be a billionaire to enjoy South Kohala’s fabulous beaches and historic sites (such as petroglyph fields); all are open to the public, with parking and other facilities (including restaurants and shopping) provided by the resorts.

Several of the region’s attractions are also located off the resorts, including the white sands of Ohaiula Beach at Spencer Park ; the massive Puukohola Heiau , a lava rock temple commissioned by King Kamehameha the Great; and the handful of restaurants and shops in Kawaihae, the commercial harbor just after the turnoff for upcountry Waimea. Note: The golf course community of Waikoloa Village is not in the Waikoloa Beach Resort, but instead lies 5½ miles uphill from the coastal highway.

Keck Observatory in Mauna Kea

Waimea (Kamuela) & Mauna Kea Officially part of South Kohala, the old upcountry cow town of Waimea on the northern road between the coasts is a world unto itself, with rolling green pastures, wide-open spaces dotted by pu’u (cindercone hills, pronounced “pooh-ooh”) and real cowpokes who work mammoth Parker Ranch, the state’s largest working ranch. The postal service gave it the name Kamuela, after ranch founder Samuel (Kamuela) Parker, to distinguish it from another cowboy town, Waimea, Kauai. It’s split between a “dry side” (closer to the Kohala Coast) and a “wet side” (closer to the Hamakua Coast), but both sides can be cooler than sea level. It’s also headquarters for the Keck Observatory, whose twin telescopes atop the nearly 14,000-foot Mauna Kea , some 35 miles away, are the largest and most powerful in the world. Those opposing the building of more observatories often stage peaceul protests in Waimea, including along its historic Church Row, which is also a popular spot for local food vendors. Waimea is home to several shopping centers and affordable lodgings, while Merriman’s remains a popular foodie outpost at Opelo Plaza.

North Kohala Locals may remember when sugar was king here, but for visitors, little-developed North Kohala is most famous for another king, Kamehameha the Great. His birthplace is a short walk from one of the Hawaiian Islands’ largest and most important temples, Mookini Heiau , which dates to a.d. 480; you’ll want a four-wheel-drive (4WD) for the rugged road there. Much easier to find (and photograph): the yellow-cloaked bronze statue of the warrior-king in front of the community center in Kapaau, a small plantation-era town. The road ends at the breathtaking Pololu Valley Overlook .

Once the center of the Big Island’s sugarcane industry, Hawi remains a regional hub, with a 3-block-long strip of sun-faded, false-fronted buildings holding a few shops and restaurants of interest to visitors. Eight miles south, Lapakahi State Historical Park merits a stop to explore how less-exalted Hawaiians than Kamehameha lived in a simple village by the sea. Beaches are less appealing here, with the northernmost coves subject to strong winds blowing across the Alenuihaha Channel from Maui, 26 miles away and visible on clear days.

The Hamakua Coast

This emerald coast, a 52-mile stretch from Honokaa to Hilo on the island’s windward northeast side, was once planted with sugarcane; it now blooms with macadamia nuts, papayas, vanilla orchids, and mushrooms. Resort-free and virtually without beaches, the Hamakua Coast includes the districts of Hamakua and North Hilo, with two unmissable destinations. Picture-perfect Waipio Valley has impossibly steep sides, taro patches, a green riot of wild plants, and a winding stream leading to a broad, black-sand beach, while Akaka Falls State Park offers views of two lovely waterfalls amid lush foliage. Also worth checking out: Laupahoehoe Point , with its mournful memorial to young victims of a 1946 tsunami; and the quirky assortment of shops in the plantation town of Honokaa.

Rainbow Falls

Hilo

The largest metropolis in Hawaii after Honolulu is a quaint, misty, flower-filled city of Victorian houses overlooking a half-moon bay, a historic downtown and a clear view of Mauna Kea, often snowcapped in winter. But it rains a lot in Hilo—about 128 inches a year—which tends to dampen visitors’ enthusiasm for longer stays. It’s ideal for growing ferns, orchids, and anthuriums, but not for catching constant rays.

Yet there’s a lot to see and do in Hilo and the surrounding South Hilo district, including indoor attractions such as the Imiloa Astronomy Center , Lyman Museum and Mission House , Mokupapapa Discovery Center , and the Pacific Tsunami Museum . Outdoors, you’ll want to see Hilo Bay , the bayfront Liliuokalani Gardens , and Rainbow Falls (Waianueanue) —so grab your umbrella. The rain is warm (the temperature seldom dips below 70°F/21°C), and there’s usually a rainbow afterward.

The town also holds the island’s best bargains for budget travelers, with plenty of hotel rooms—most of the year, that is. Hilo’s magic moment comes in spring, the week after Easter, when hula halau (schools) arrive for the annual Merrie Monarch Hula Festival hula competition (www.merriemonarch.com). Plan ahead if you want to go: Tickets are sold out by the first week in January, and hotels within 30 miles are usually booked solid. Hilo is also the gateway to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park , where hula troupes have traditionally performed chants and dances before the Merrie Monarch festival; the park is 30 miles away, or about an hour’s drive up-slope.

Puna District

Pahoa, Kapoho & Kalapana Between Hilo and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park lies the “Wild Wild East,” which gained international fame in 2018 with the onset of devastating, dramatic lava flows that lasted 4 months. Although no lives were lost (scientific monitoring allows for early warning, and lava doesn’t move that fast here), the flows claimed some 700 homes—including oceanfront vacation rentals, an isolated suburban subdivision, and farmsteads—and filled all of Kapoho Bay with molten rock up to 900 feet deep. The Lower Puna eruption also caused Green Lake to evaporate and buried the volcanically heated waters of Ahalanui Park, the Kapoho warm ponds, and Waiopae tidepools, all beloved attractions and unique ecosystems. However, not all was lost: The ghostly hollowed trunks of Lava Tree State Monument remain standing, while a new black-sand beach and lagoon formed at Pohoiki Harbor in Isaac Hale Beach Park , which currently requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle to access. At press time, officials were still mulling how to allow safe access to newly created thermal ponds near the extended shoreline, but a lively night market still takes place in Kalapana on the acres of lava that rolled through the hamlet in 1986. The part-Hawaiian, part-hippie plantation town of Pahoa was threatened by a lava flow in 2014 that consumed miles of forest before stopping just short of the village and Hwy. 130, its lifeline to the rest of the island.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park This is America’s most exciting national park, where a live volcano called Kilauea continuously erupted from 1983 to 2018, and put on many memorable displays long before Mark Twain recorded its scenery and sulphurous odors in 1866. At press time, steam still wafted around Kilauea’s edges, while its magma chamber far below the earth was slowly beginning to refill after having poured out lava through Puna’s Lower East Rift Zone. The months of sporadic but massive, steam-driven eruptions of ash at the summit in 2018 not only drained the famous lava lake at Halemaumau Crater inside Kilauea’s caldera, but also quadrupled the size of the caldera, which expanded more than a square mile. The crater floor dropped from 280 feet to as much as 1,500 feet in places. While the vast park had yet to reopen all roads, trails, and attractions at press time, visitors should still ideally plan to spend 3 days at the park exploring its spectacular landscape, including cinder mounds, lush rainforest, stark-hued shoreline, and cultural sites. Even if you have only a day, it’s worth the trip. Bring your sweats or jacket (honest!); it’s cool and often misty up here.

Volcano Village If you’re not camping or staying at the historic, 33-room Volcano House inside the park, you’ll want to overnight in this quiet hamlet, just outside the national park entrance. Several cozy inns and B&Bs, some with fireplaces, reside under tree ferns in this cool mountain hideaway. The tiny highland community (elevation 4,000 ft.), first settled by Japanese immigrants, is now inhabited by artists, soul-searchers, and others who like the crisp high-country air, although proposed county regulations may drastically limit vacation rentals here.

Kau District

Pronounced “kah-oo,” this windswept, often barren district between Puna and South Kona is one visitors are most likely to just drive through on their way to and from the national park. Nevertheless, it contains several noteworthy sites.

Ka Lae (South Point) This is the Plymouth Rock of Hawaii. The first Polynesians are thought to have arrived in seagoing canoes, most likely from the Marquesas Islands, as early as a.d. 124 at this rocky promontory 500 feet above the sea. To the west is the old fishing village of Waiahukini, populated from a.d. 750 until the 1860s; ancient canoe moorings, shelter caves, and heiau (temples) poke through windblown pili grass today. The east coast curves inland to reveal Papakolea (Green Sand) Beach , a world-famous anomaly that’s best accessed on foot. Along the point, the southernmost spot in the 50 states, trees grow sideways due to the relentless gusts that also power wind turbines in the area. It’s a slow, nearly 12-mile drive from the highway to the tip of Ka Lae, so many visitors simply stop at the marked overlook on Highway 11, west of South Point Road.

Naalehu, Waiohinu & Pahala Nearly every business in Naalehu and Waiohinu, the two wide spots on the main road near South Point, claims to be the southernmost this or that. But except for delicious malasadas (doughnut holes) or another pick-me-up from the Punaluu Bake Shop or Hana Hou Restaurant , there’s no reason to linger before heading to Punaluu Beach , between Naalehu and Pahala. Protected green sea turtles bask on the fine black-sand beach when they’re not bobbing in the clear waters, chilly from fresh springs bubbling from the ocean floor. Pahala is the center of the burgeoning Kau coffee-growing scene (“industry” might be overstated), so caffeine fans should also allot at least 45 minutes for a visit to the Kau Coffee Mill .

Papakolea (Green Sand) Beach

Getting Around

The Hawaiian directions of makai (toward the ocean) and mauka (toward the mountains) come in handy when looking for unfamiliar sites, especially since numbered address signs may be invisible or nonexistent. They’re used with addresses below as needed.

By Taxi and Rideshare Ride-sharing Uber and Lyft came to the island in 2017, although at press time coverage was spotty outside of Kailua-Kona and Hilo. Kona airport pickups are allowed at the median between Terminal 1 and 2; in Hilo, find your ride-share curbside, near the helicopter tours. Licensed taxis with professional, knowledgeable drivers are readily available at both Kona and Hilo airports, although renting a car (see below) is a more likely option. Rates set by the county start at $3, plus $3.20 each additional mile—about $25 to $30 from the Kona airport to Kailua-Kona and $50 to $60 to the Waikoloa Beach Resort. On the Kona side, call Kona Taxicab (www.konataxicab.com; 808/324-4444), which can also be booked in advance for airport pickups; drivers will check on your flight’s arrival. On the Hilo side, call Kwiki Taxi (www.kwikitaxi.wordpress.com; 808/498-0308).

By Car You’ll want a rental car on the Big Island; not having one will really limit you. All major car-rental agencies have airport pickups in Kona and Hilo; some even offer cars at Kohala and Kona resorts. For tips on insurance and driving rules, see “Getting Around Hawaii” (p. 601).

The Big Island has more than 480 miles of paved road. The highway that circles the island is called the Hawaii Belt Road. From North Kona to South Kohala and Waimea, you have two driving choices: the scenic “upper” road, Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy. 190), or the speedier “lower” road, Queen Kaahumanu Highway (Hwy. 19). South of Kailua-Kona, the Hawaii Belt Road continues on Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy. 11) all the way to downtown Hilo, where it becomes Highway 19 again and follows the Hamakua Coast before heading up to Waimea.

North Kohala also has upper and lower highways. In Kawaihae, you can follow Kawaihae Road (Hwy. 19) uphill to the left turn onto the often-misty Kohala Mountain Road (Hwy. 250), which eventually drops down into Hawi. The Akoni Pule Highway (Hwy. 270) hugs the coast from Kawaihae to pavement’s end at the Pololu Valley Lookout.

Note: Saddle Road (Hwy. 200) snakes between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa en route from Hilo to Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy. 190). Despite improvements to its pavement and narrow shoulders, it’s frequented by large military vehicles and plagued by bad weather; most rental-car agencies forbid you from driving on it. I’ve found the 29 miles from Hilo to the Mauna Kea Access Road to be very easy to navigate in good conditions, but be careful not to speed, especially close to Hilo.

By Bus & Shuttle SpeediShuttle (www.speedishuttle.com; 808/329-5433) and Roberts Hawaii (www.robertshawaii.com; 866/570-2536 or 808/954-8640) offer door-to-door airport transfers to hotels and other lodgings. Sample round-trip, shared-ride rates from the Kona airport are $26 per person to Kailua-Kona, and $60 per person to the Mauna Lani Resort; Roberts agents meet you outside security and provide porter service in baggage claim, but be aware there may be up to five stops before your destination.

The islandwide bus system, the Hele-On Bus (www.heleonbus.org; 808/961-8744), offers a great flat rate for riders: $2 general; $1 for students, seniors, and people with disabilities; and free for children under 5. Yet most routes have limited value for visitors, other than the Intra-Kona line between Kailua-Kona’s big-box stores (Wal-Mart, Costco) and the Keauhou Shopping Center, which also stops at the Old Kona Airport Beach. Fares are cash only, with no change given.

Travelers staying in Kailua-Kona and the Keauhou Resort can hop on the open-air, 44-seat Keauhou Resort Trolley operated by Roberts Hawaii ( 808/329-1688), running from 9am to 9:15pm daily along Alii Drive. It makes six stops a day at 29 locations from the Sheraton Kona Resort and Keauhou Shopping Center to Kahaluu Beach, Kailua Pier, and the shops of downtown Kailua-Kona. The fare is $2, free for those with vouchers from their hotel or stores in the Kona Commons Shopping Center, which give them to customers who spend $25 or more.

The Waikoloa Beach Resort trolley runs from 10am to 10pm daily from Hilton Waikoloa Village and the Waikoloa Beach Marriott to the Kings’ Shops and Queens’ MarketPlace; it costs $2 adults, $1 ages 5 to 12 (younger free). Guests at Kings’ Land by Hilton Grand Vacations can catch a free shuttle to Hilton Waikoloa Village and pick up the trolley from there. Hilton Waikoloa Village also runs golf shuttles for guests.

By Bike Due to elevation changes, narrow shoulders (with the notable exception of the Queen Kaahumanu Highway between Kailua-Kona and Kawaihae), and high traffic speeds, point-to-point bike travel without a tour guide isn’t recommended. However, several areas are ideal for recreational cycling and sightseeing. See “Biking” under “Other Outdoor Activities” for rental shops and routes.

By Motorcycle & Scooter The sunny Kohala and Kona coasts are ideal for tooling around on a motorcycle, while those sticking to one resort or Kailua-Kona can easily get around by scooter. Big Island Mopeds (www.konamopedrentals.com; 808/443-6625) will deliver mopeds to your door for $40 day ($200 weekly; note prices rise to $100 daily/$500 weekly during Ironman week in mid-Oct). Choose from a variety of bigger rides hogs at Big Island Harley-Davidson, 75-5633 Palani Rd. (www.bigislandharley.com; 888/904-3155 or 808/329-4464), with rates starting at $99 daily ($639 weekly), including gear and unlimited mileage, for qualified drivers.

The Big Island

Air Quality Although air quality has been excellent since Kilauea’s 35-year eruption ceased in 2018, you can find daily air-quality reports, based on sulfur dioxide and particulates measured at eight different sites, at hiso2index.info.

ATMs/Banks ATMs are located everywhere on the Big Island, at banks, supermarkets, Longs Drugs, and at some shopping malls. The major banks on the Big Island are First Hawaiian, Bank of Hawaii, American Savings, and Central Pacific, all with branches in both Kona and Hilo.

Business Hours Most businesses on the island are open from 8 or 9am to 5 or 6pm.

Dentists In Kohala, contact Dr. Craig C. Kimura at Kamuela Office Center, 65-1230 Mamalahoa Hwy., Waimea ( 808/885-5947). In Kailua-Kona, call Dr. Christopher Bays at Kona Coast Dental Care, 75-5591 Palani Rd., above the KBXtreme Bowling Center (www.konacoastdental.com; 808/329-8067). In Hilo, Island Ohana Dental, 519 E. Lanikaula St. (www.islandohanadental.com; 808/935-4800), is open Mon–Sat, with three siblings—Drs. Germaine, Garrett, and Jill Uehara—on staff.

Doctors For drop-in visits, head to Urgent Care of Kona, 77-311 Sunset Dr., Kailua-Kona (www.urgentcareofkona.com; 808/327-4357). It’s open 8am–5pm weekdays and 9am–5pm on Sat. Kaiser Permanente has an affiliated Urgent Care Center at 670 Kekuanaoa St., Hilo ( 808/969-3051), open 8:30am–8:30pm weekdays and 8:30am–4:30pm weekends.

Emergencies For ambulance, fire, or rescue services, dial 911.

Hospitals Hospitals offering 24-hour, urgent-care facilities include the Kona Community Hospital, 79-1019 Haukapila St., off Highway 11, Kealakekua (www.kch.hhsc.org; 808/322-9311); Hilo Medical Center, 1190 Waianuenue Ave., Hilo (www.hilomedicalcenter.org; 808/932-3000); North Hawaii Community Hospital, 67-1125 Mamalahoa Hwy., Waimea (www.nhch.com; 808/885-4444); and the tiny Kau Hospital, 1 Kamani St., Pahala (www.kauhospital.org; 808/932-4200).

Internet Access Pretty much every lodging on the island has Wi-Fi; resorts typically include it in their exorbitant resort fees, but some hotels may offer it for a daily charge. All Starbucks and McDonald’s locations, plus numerous local coffee shops also offer free Wi-Fi. The state has also started creating Wi-Fi hotspots with 1-hr. free use around the island.

Pharmacies The only 24-hour pharmacy is in Hilo at Longs Drugs, 555 Kilauea Ave., one of 12 around the island (www.cvs.com; 808/935-9075). The rest open as early as 7am and close as late as 9pm Monday through Saturday; some are closed Sunday. Kona and Hilo’s national chain stores such as Kmart, Safeway, Target, Wal-Mart, and Costco (Kailua-Kona only) also have pharmacies with varying hours.

Police Dial 911 in case of emergency; otherwise, call the Hawaii Police Department at 808/935-3311 islandwide.

Post Office The U.S. Postal Service (www.usps.com; 800/275-8777) has 28 branches around the island, including in Kailua-Kona at 74-5577 Palani Rd., in Waimea (Kamuela) at 67-1197 Mamalahoa Hwy., and in Hilo at 1299 Kekuanaoa St. All are open weekdays; some are also open Saturday morning.

Volcanic Activity Before you visit Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, learn if lava is flowing and check for any closures at www.nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/index.htm.

Exploring the Big Island

Attractions & Points of Interest

Although parks are open year-round, some of the other attractions below may be closed on major holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, or Thanksgiving Day (fourth Thursday in Nov). Admission is often reduced for Hawaii residents with state ID.

North Kona

Hulihee Palace HISTORIC SITE John Adams Kuakini, royal governor of the island, built this stately, two-story New England–style mansion overlooking Kailua Bay in 1838. It later became a summer home for King Kalakaua and Queen Kapiolani and, like Queen Emma’s Summer Palace and Iolani Palace on Oahu, is now lovingly maintained by the Daughters of Hawaii as a showcase for royal furnishings and Native Hawaiian artifacts, from hat boxes to koa furniture and a 22-foot spear. You can take a self-guided tour of its six spacious rooms, but it’s worth arriving in time for a free guided tour, at 10am and 1pm daily, to learn more of the monarchs’ history and cultural context; guided tours are also the only ones permitted on the oceanfront lanai. A sign directs you to remove shoes before entering, with free booties provided upon request.

A cultural performance at Hulihee Palace

The palace lawn hosts 12 free events a year honoring a different member of Hawaiian royalty, with performances by local hula schools and musicians. Called Afternoon at the Palace, they’re generally held at 4pm on the third Sunday of the month (except June and Dec, when the performances are held in conjunction with King Kamehameha Day and Christmas). There’s also a monthly garden party that includes a private tour and tea ($40). Check the Daughters of Hawaii website for dates.

75-5718 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona. daughtersofhawaii.org. 808/329-1877. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $1 ages 5–17. Mon–Sat 9am–4pm, Sun 10am–3pm.

Kaloko-Honokoha National Historical Park HISTORIC SITE/NATURAL ATTRACTION With no erupting volcano, impressive tikis, or massive temples, this 1,160-acre oceanfront site just north of Honokohau Harbor tends to get overlooked by visitors in favor of its showier siblings in the national park system. That’s a shame for several reasons, among them it’s a microcosm of ancient Hawaii, from fish ponds (one with an 800-ft.-long rock wall), house platforms, petroglyphs, and trails through barren lava to marshlands with native waterfowl, reefs teeming with fish, and a tranquil beach where green sea turtles bask in the shadow of Puuoina Heiau. Plus, it’s rarely crowded, and admission is free. Stop by the visitor center to ask about ocean conditions (if you’re planning to snorkel), and then backtrack to Honokohau Harbor, a half-mile south, to park closer to the beach.

Crazy for (real) Kona coffee

More than 600 farms grow coffee in the Kona Coffee Belt on the slopes of Hualalai, from Kailua-Kona and Holualoa in North Kona to Captain Cook and Honaunau in South Kona. The prettiest time to visit is between January and May, when the rainy season brings white blossoms known as “Kona snow.” Harvesting is by hand—one reason Kona coffee is so costly—from July through January. Nearly 20 farms offer regular tours with tastings, and many more provide samples. Note: Buying directly from the farm, and only buying coffee labeled 100% Kona, is the best way to avoid being ripped off by bogus beans with inferior taste. Several small farmers have filed a lawsuit (ongoing at press time) accusing several chain retailers of deceiving consumers through sales of fake “Kona coffee” and highly adulterated blends.

To find the real thing, you can make impromptu stops along Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy. 11 and Hwy. 180) or find more obscure farms and those requiring reservations via the Kona Coffee Farmers Association (www.konacoffeefarmers.org). Some highlights, heading north to south:

Holualoa Kona Coffee Company, 77-6261 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 180), Holulaloa (www.konalea.com; 800/334-0348 or 808/322-9937): Owned by Desmond and Lisen Twigg-Smith, this organic farm and mill sells its own and others’ premium Kona coffee. Take a self-guided tour of the orchards (mowed and fertilized by a flock of about 50 geese), witness all phases of processing, and finish with a free cup of organic coffee weekdays from 8am to 3pm.

Kona Joe Coffee, 79-7346 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 11 btw. mile markers 113 and 114), Kainaliu; www.konajoe.com; 808/322-2100): The home of the world’s first trellised coffee farm offers a free, self-guided tour with 8-minute video, as well as guided tours by request ($15 adults, free for kids 12 and under), daily from 8am to 4pm. Guided tours of the 20-acre estate include a mug, coffee, and chocolate, with reservations recommended for groups of six or more; coffee-loving couples should book the 1-hr., in-depth VIP tour ($170 per two adults).

Greenwell Farms, 81-6581 Mamalahoa Hwy. (makai side of Hwy. 11, south of mile marker 112), Kealakekua (www.greenwellfarms.com; 808/323-2295): If any farm can claim to be the granddaddy of Kona coffee, this would be it. Englishman Henry Nicholas Greenwell began growing coffee in the region in 1850. Now operated by his great-grandson and agricultural innovator Tom Greenwell, the farm offers free tours daily from 8:30am to 4pm. Bonus: On Thursday, join volunteers baking Portuguese sweet bread in a stone oven from 10am to 1pm at the H. N. Greenwell Store Museum just south of the farm; bread sales ($8) start at 12:30pm and sell out quickly. Greenwell built the store in 1870, making it the oldest surviving shop in Kona; its multicultural museum is open 10am to 2pm Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday; admission is $7 adults, $3 children ages 7 to 17.

Ocean side of Hwy. 19, 3 miles south of Kona airport. www.nps.gov/kaho. 808/326-9057. Park daily sunrise–sunset. Visitor center and parking lot ½-mile north of Honokohau Harbor daily 8:30am–4pm (closed second Sat in Oct for Ironman). Kaloko Rd. gate daily 8am–5pm. No time restrictions on parking at Honokohau Harbor; from Hwy.19, take Kealakehe Pkwy. west into harbor, then take 1st right, and follow to parking lot near Kona Sailing Club, a short walk to beach.

Mokuaikaua Church

Mokuaikaua Church RELIGIOUS/HISTORIC SITE In 1820, the first missionaries to land in Hawaii arrived on the brig Thaddeus and received the royals’ permission to preach. Within a few years a thatched-roof structure had risen on this site, on land donated by Gov. Kuakini, owner of Hulihee Palace across the road. But after several fires, Rev. Asa Thurston had this massive, New England–style structure erected, using lava rocks from a nearby heiau (temple) held together by coral mortar, with gleaming koa for the lofty interior. The 112-foot steeple is still the tallest structure in Kailua-Kona. Visitors are welcome to view the sanctuary, open daily, and a rear room with a small collection of artifacts, including a model of the Thaddeus, a rope star chart used by Pacific Islanders, and a poignant plaque commemorating Henry Opukahaia. As a teenager, the Big Island native (known then as “Obookiah”) boarded a ship to New England in 1807, converted to Christianity, and helped plan the first mission to the islands, but he died of a fever in 1818, the year before the Thaddeus sailed. (In 1993 his remains were reinterred at Kahikolu Congregational Church, 16 miles south of Mokuaikaua in Captain Cook.) Mokuaikaua hosts a free history talk most Sundays at 12:15pm, following the 11am service.

75-5713 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona, across from Hulihee Palace (parking behind the church off Kuakini Hwy.). www.mokuaikaua.org. 808/329-0655. Daily 7:30am–5:30pm.

Ocean Rider Seahorse Farm AQUACULTURE On the coastline just behind the Natural Energy Lab (NELHA) lies this 3-acre, conservation-oriented “aqua-farm,” which breeds and displays more than half of the world’s 36 species of seahorses. The farm began breeding seahorses in 1998 as a way of ending demand for wild-collected seahorses and, once successful, expanded its interests to include similarly threatened sea dragons and reef fish. Although the $43 online ticket cost of the biologist-led, 1-hour tour may seem excessive, proceeds benefit the farm’s research and conservation. In any case, people still find their way here in droves, excited to see pregnant male seahorses and their babies, and to have one of the delicate creatures wrap its tail around their fingers.

Saving Rare seals

Seahorses aren’t the only rare marine life on view near the Natural Energy Lab. From 10am to 4pm weekdays, drop-in visitors are welcome at the Hawaiian monk seal hospital, Ke Kai Ola, 73-731 Makako Bay Dr., Kailua-Kona (www.tmmc.org/monkseal; 808/326-7325). While you won’t interact directly with this highly endangered species, of which only about 1,100 remain, you can view any patients on a TV monitor and learn more about them from interpretive signs. Most are rescued from the remote Northwest Hawaiian Islands archipelago as undernourished pups and returned there once suitably fattened up.

73-4388 Ilikai Place (behind the Natural Energy Lab), Kailua-Kona. From Hwy. 19 (at mile marker 94), follow OTEC Rd. past Wawaloli Beach Park to 1st left; farm is on the right. www.seahorse.com. 808/329-6840. Online tickets $43 adults, $33 children 4–12, free ages 3 and under (toddlers do not hold seahorses); at gate, $45 adults, $35 children. Tours Mon–Fri 10am, noon, and 2pm, also Mon 11am; reservations recommended. Gift shop Mon–Fri 9:30am–3:30pm.

South Kona

Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park NATURAL ATTRACTION The island’s largest natural sheltered bay, a marine life conservation district, is not only one of the best places to snorkel on Hawaii Island, it’s also an area of deep cultural and historical significance. On the southern Napoopoo (“nah-poh-oh-poh-oh”) side stands the large stacked-rock platform of Hikiau Heiau, a temple once used for human sacrifice and still considered sacred. A rocky beach park here includes picnic tables, barbecues, and restrooms. On the north side, a steep but relatively broad 2-mile trail leads down to Kaawaloa, where ali’i (royalty) once lived; when they died, their bodies were taken to Puhina O Lono Heiau on the slope above, prepared for burial, and hidden in caves on the 600-foot-cliff above the central bay. The Captain Cook Monument is an obelisk on Kaawaloa Flat, near where the British explorer was slain in 1779, after misunderstandings between Hawaiians and Cook’s crew led to armed conflict. The Hawaiians then showed respect by taking Cook’s body to Puhina O Lono before returning some of his remains to his crew. Please do not tread on the reef or cultural sites; to protect the area, only hikers and three guided kayak tour companies have access to Kaawaloa Flat (see “Kayaking” on p. 229).

The Painted Church

From Hwy. 11 in Captain Cook heading south, take right fork onto Napoopoo Rd. (Hwy. 160). Kaawaloa trailhead is about 500 ft. on right. By car, continue on Napoopoo Rd. 4¼-mile to left on Puuhonua Rd.; go ⅕-mile to right on Manini Beach Rd. dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii. Free. Daily during daylight hours.

The Painted Church (St. Benedict’s) RELIGIOUS SITE Beginning in 1899, Father John Berchman Velghe (a member of the same order as St. Damien of Molokai) painted biblical scenes and images of saints inside quaint St. Benedict’s Catholic Church, founded in 1842 and restored in 2002. As with stained-glass windows of yore, his pictures, created with simple house paint, were a way of sharing stories with illiterate parishioners. It’s a wonderfully trippy experience to look up at arching palm fronds and shiny stars on the ceiling. Health issues forced the priest to return to Belgium in 1904 before finishing all the pictures. The oceanview church is typically open during the day, but keep in mind it’s an active parish; most services are at 7 or 7:15am, with one afternoon Mass celebrated at 4pm Sat.

84-5140 Painted Church Rd., Captain Cook. thepaintedchurchhawaii.org. 808/328-2227. From Kailua-Kona, take Hwy. 11 south 20 miles to a right on Rte. 160. Go 1 mile to the 1st turnoff on the right, opposite from a King Kamehameha sign. Follow the narrow, winding road about ¼-mile to church sign and turn right. Free.

Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park HISTORIC SITE With its fierce, haunting carved idols known as ki’i—the Hawaiian word for tiki—this sacred, 420-acre site on the black-lava Kona Coast certainly looks forbidding. To ancient Hawaiians, it served as a 16th-century place of refuge (pu’uhonua), providing sanctuary for defeated warriors and kapu (taboo) violators. A great rock wall—1,000 feet long, 10 feet high, and 17 feet thick—defines the refuge. On the wall’s north end is Hale O Keawe Heiau, which holds the bones of 23 Hawaiian chiefs. Other finds include a royal compound, burial sites, old trails, and a portion of the ancient village of Kiileae (a 2-mile hike). You can learn about thatched huts, canoes, and idols on a self-guided tour, but try to make one of the free daily ranger talks at 10:30am, 1:30pm, and 2:30pm in a covered amphitheater. Sunday through Thursday, cultural practitioner Kahakaio Ravenscraft demonstrates traditional crafts like creating kapa cloth. Note: Only bottled water is sold in the park, but there are picnic tables on the sandy stretch of the south side.

Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park

Hwy. 160, Honaunau. www.nps.gov/puho. 808/328-2288. From Kailua-Kona, take Hwy. 11 south 20 miles to a right on Hwy. 160. Head 3½ miles and turn left at park sign. $15 per vehicle; $10 per motorcycle; $7 per person on foot or bicycle; good for 7 days. Visitor center daily 8:30am–4:30pm; park daily 7am–sunset.

South Kohala

Hamakua Macadamia Nut Factory FACTORY TOUR The self-guided tour of shelling, roasting, and other processing that results in flavored macadamia nuts and confections is not that compelling if production has stopped for the day, so go before 3pm or plan to watch a video to get caught up. But who are we kidding—it’s really all about the free tastings here, generous samples of big, fresh nuts in island flavors such as chili “peppah,” Spam, and Kona-coffee glazed. Outside the hilltop factory warehouse are picnic tables with an ocean view.

61-3251 Maluokalani St., Kawaihae. www.hawnnut.com. 888/643-6688 or 808/882-1690. Free. Daily 9am–5:30pm. From Kawaihae Harbor, take Hwy. 270 north ¾-mile, turn right on Maluokalani St., factory is on right.

Kohala Petroglyph Fields ROCK CARVINGS Hawaiian petroglyphs are an enigma of the Pacific—no one knows who made them or why. They appear at 135 different sites on six inhabited islands, but most are found on the Big Island, and include images of dancers and paddlers, fishermen and chiefs, and tools of daily life such as fish hooks and canoes. The most common depictions are family groups, while some petroglyphs depict post–European contact objects such as ships, anchors, horses, and guns. Simple circles with dots were used to mark the puka, or holes, where parents would place their child’s umbilical cord (piko).

Sweet on chocolate

Tucked between coffee orchards in the uplands of Keauhou, the Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory, 78-6772 Makenawai St., Kailua-Kona (www.ohcf.us; 888/447-2626 and 808/322-2626) began growing cacao in 1993. It was the first in the islands to produce 100% Hawaiian chocolate. The 1-hour walking tour ($20 adults, free for kids under 12) includes the orchard, small factory, and chocolate sampling, plus the option to buy the expensive but delectable chocolate bars and pieces shaped like plumeria flowers. Tours are at 9am Wednesday and 9 and 11am Friday by reservation only; book well in advance. The factory store is open Tuesday through Friday from 10am to 3pm.

The largest concentration of these stone symbols in the Pacific lies in the 233-acre Puako Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve next to the Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii, at the Mauna Lani Resort. Some 3,000 designs have been identified. The 1.5-mile Malama Trail through a kiawe field to the large, reddish lava field starts north of the hotel, makai side. Take Highway 19 to the resort turnoff and drive toward the coast on North Kaniku Drive, which ends at the Holoholokai Beach parking lot; the trailhead on your right is marked by a sign and interpretive kiosk. Go in the early morning or late afternoon when it’s cooler; bring water, wear shoes with sturdy soles (to avoid kiawe thorns), and stay on the trail.

Local expert Kaleiula Kaneau leads a free 1-hour tour of the petroglyphs near the Kings’ Shops in the Waikoloa Beach Resort Thursdays and Fridays at 9:30am; meet lakeside by Island Fish & Chips. You can also follow the signs to the trail through the petroglyph field on your own, but be aware that the trail is exposed, uneven, and rough; wear closed-toe shoes, a hat, and sunscreen.

Note: The petroglyphs are thousands of years old and easily destroyed. Do not walk on them or take rubbings (the Puako preserve has a replica petroglyph you may use instead). The best way to capture a petroglyph is with a photo in the late afternoon when the shadows are long.

Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site HISTORIC SITE This seacoast temple, called “the hill of the whale,” is the single most imposing and dramatic structure of the early Hawaiians, built by Kamehameha I from 1790 to 1791. The heiau stands 224 feet long by 100 feet wide, with three narrow terraces on the seaside and an amphitheater to view canoes. Kamehameha built this temple to Ku, the war god, after a prophet told him he would conquer and unite the islands if he did so. He also slayed his cousin on the site, and 4 years later fulfilled his kingly goal. The site includes a visitor center; a smaller heiau-turned-fort; the homestead of John Young (a British seaman who became a trusted advisor of Kamehameha); and, offshore, the submerged ruins of what is believed to be Hale O Kapuni, a shrine dedicated to the shark gods or guardian spirits called ’aumakua. (You can’t see the temple, but shark fins are often spotted slicing through the waters.) Paved trails lead around the complex, with restricted access to the heiau.

62-3601 Kawaihae Rd. (Hwy. 270, makai side, south of Kawaihae Harbor). www.nps.gov/puhe. 808/882-7218. Free. Daily 7:30am–4:45pm.

North Kohala

It takes some effort to reach the Kohala Historical Sites State Monument , but for those with 4WD vehicles or the ability to hike 3 miles round-trip, visiting the windswept, culturally important site on the on the island’s northern tip may be worth it. The 1,500-year-old Mookini Heiau, once used by kings to pray and offer human sacrifices, is among the oldest, largest (the size of a football field), and most significant shrines in Hawaii. It’s off a coastal dirt road, 1½ miles southwest of Upolu Airport (hdlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii; Thurs–Tues 9am–8pm; free admission).

King Kamehameha Statue MONUMENT Here stands King Kamehameha the Great, right arm outstretched, left arm holding a spear, as if guarding the seniors who have turned a century-old, New England–style courthouse into an airy civic center. There’s one just like it in Honolulu, across the street from Iolani Palace, and another in the U.S. Capitol, but this is the original: an 8-foot, 6-inch bronze by Thomas R. Gould, a Boston sculptor. Cast in Europe in 1880, it was lost at sea on its way to Hawaii. After a sea captain recovered the statue, it was placed here, near Kamehameha’s Kohala birthplace, in 1912. The unifier of the islands, Kamehameha is believed to have been born in 1758 under Halley’s Comet and became ruler of Hawaii in 1810. He died in Kailua-Kona in 1819, but his burial site remains a mystery.

In front of North Kohala Civic Center, mauka side of Hwy. 270, Kapaau, just north of Kapaau Rd.

Lapakahi State Historical Park HISTORIC SITE This 14th-century fishing village on a hot, dry, dusty stretch of coast offers a glimpse into the lifestyle of the ancients. Lapakahi is the best-preserved fishing village in Hawaii. Take the self-guided, 1-mile loop trail past stone platforms, fish shrines, rock shelters, salt pans, and restored hale (houses) to a coral-sand beach and the deep-blue sea of Koaie Cove, a marine life conservation district. Wear good walking shoes and a hat, go early in the morning or late in the afternoon to beat the heat, and bring your own water. Facilities include portable toilets and picnic tables.

Makai side of Hwy. 270, Mahukona, 12.4 miles north of Kawaihae. dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii. 808/327-4958. Free. Daily 8am–4pm.

Pololu Valley Lookout NATURAL ATTRACTION At this end-of-the-road scenic lookout, you can gaze at the vertical dark-green cliffs of the Hamakua Coast and two islets offshore or peer back into the often-misty uplands. The view may look familiar once you get here—it often appears on travel posters. Adventurous travelers should take the switchback trail (a good 45-min. hike) to a secluded black-sand beach at the mouth of a wild valley once planted in taro. Bring water and bug spray, avoid the surf (subject to strong currents), and refrain from creating new stacks of rocks, which disrupt the beach ecology.

At the northern end of Hwy. 270, 5½ miles east of Kapaau.

Pololu Valley

Waimea & Mauna Kea

Mauna Kea NATURAL ATTRACTION The 13,796-foot summit of Mauna Kea, the world’s tallest mountain if measured from its base on the ocean floor, is one of the best places on earth for astronomical observations, thanks to pollution-free skies, pitch-black nights, and a tropical location. Here are the world’s largest telescopes—and at press time, some environmentalists and Native Hawaiians who still worship here were fighting construction of an even larger one—but the stargazing is fantastic even with the naked eye. Note: Some spell it Maunakea, a contraction of Mauna a Wakea, or “the mountain of Wakea” (said to be the sky father and ancestor of all Hawaiians), in lieu of Mauna Kea, or “white mountain.”

Safety Tips Before heading out, make sure you have four-wheel drive and a full gas tank, and check current weather and road conditions (mkwc.ifa.hawaii.edu/current/road-conditions; 808/935-6268). The drive via Saddle Road (Hwy. 200) to the visitor center takes about an hour from Hilo and 90 minutes from Kailua-Kona; stay at least 30 minutes to acclimate before ascending to the summit, a half-hour further on a steep, largely unpaved road. Dress warmly: It’s chilly and windy by day, and after dark, temperatures drop into the 30s (from 3°C to -1°C). To avoid the bends, don’t go within 24 hours of scuba diving; pregnant women, children under 16, and those with heart or lung conditions should also skip this trip. At night, bring a flashlight, with a red filter to reduce glare. Note: Many rental-car agencies ban driving on remote Saddle Road, so a private tour, while pricey, is probably the safest and easiest bet (see “Seeing Stars While Others Drive,” below).

Visitor Center Named for Ellison Onizuka, the Big Island astronaut aboard the ill-fated Challenger, the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy Visitor Information Station (www.ifa.hawaii.edu/info/vis; 808/961-2180) is 6¼ miles up Summit Road and at 9,200 feet elevation. It’s open daily 9am to 5pm, with interactive exhibits, 24-hour restrooms, and a bookstore with food, drink, gloves, and other gear for sale. Day visitors can peer through a solar telescope. From 7 to 10pm Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday (weather dependent), a guide leads a free stargazing program that starts with a screening of First Light, a documentary about the cultural and astronomical significance of Mauna Kea. Note: In late 2018, the visitor center suspended stargazing while it expanded its parking lot, but the program was expected to resume when construction finished in mid-2019. Check the website for details on monthly cultural and science programs held on Saturdayss

On the way to Mauna Kea

At the Summit It’s another steep 6 miles, most of them unpaved, to the summit from the visitor center. If you’re driving, make sure your 4WD vehicle has plenty of gas and is in good condition before continuing on. Up here, 11 nations have set up 13 peerless infrared telescopes to look into deep space, making this the world’s largest astronomical observatory. The W. M. Keck Observatory has a visitor gallery, open weekdays 10am–4pm, with informational panels, restrooms, and a viewing area of the eight-story-high telescope and dome (you can also visit its headquarters at 65-1120 Mamalahoa Hwy., Waimea, 10am–2pm weekdays; see www.keckobservatory.org for details). For cultural reasons, visitors are discouraged from hiking the footpath across the road to the actual, unmarked summit where ancient astronomers and priests came to study the skies and where Native Hawaiians still worship today. No matter: From the summit parking lot you have an unparalleled view of other peaks, such as Mauna Loa and Haleakala, and the bright Pacific.

Another sacred site is Lake Waiau, which, at 13,020 feet above sea level, is one of the highest in the world. Although it shrinks drastically in time of drought, it has never dried up. It’s named for one of the sisters of Poliahu, the snow goddess said to make her home atop Mauna Kea. To see it, you must take a brief hike: At Park 3, the first intersection on the road to the summit above the visitor center, follow the trail to the south for .5-mile, then take branch to the right that leads to the top of a crater and the small, greenish lake. Note: Please respect cultural traditions by not drinking or entering the water, and leave all rocks undisturbed.

seeing stars While Others Drive

Two excellent companies offer Mauna Kea tour packages that provide cold-weather gear, dinner, hot drinks, guided stargazing, and, best of all, someone else to worry about maneuvering the narrow, unpaved road to the summit. All tours are offered weather permitting, but most nights are clear—that’s why the observatories are here, after all—with pickups from several locations. Read the fine print on health and age restrictions before booking, and don’t forget to tip your guide ($10–$20 per person).

Hawaii Forest & Trail (www.hawaii-forest.com; 800/464-1993 or 808/331-8505), the island’s premier outfitter, operates the daily Maunakea Summit & Stars Adventure, which leaves Kona in time for a late-afternoon picnic dinner on the mountain, sunset at the summit, and stargazing at the visitor center, for $221. The company uses two customized off-road buses (14 passengers max each) for the 7- to 8-hour tour. Early risers can take advantage of jet lag for the exclusive Maunakea Sunrise Experience ($191–$206) which departs between 2:30 and 3am from both Kona and Hilo sides and includes breakfast, allowing you to see the night sky on the slope of the mountain and sunrise at the top. Like all of Hawaii Forest & Trail’s tours, these are exceptional, with well-informed guides.

Monty “Pat” Wright was the first to run a Mauna Kea stargazing tour when he launched Mauna Kea Summit Adventures (www.maunakea.com; 888/322-2366 or 808/322-2366) in 1983. Guests now ride in a large-windowed, four-wheel-drive (4WD) van instead of a Land Cruiser and don parkas instead of old sweaters; otherwise, it’s much the same, with veggie lasagna for dinner at the visitor center before a spectacular sunset and stargazing. The 7½- to 8-hour tour costs $226.

Observatories at Maunakea

Lake Waiau, inside the cinder cone just below the summit of Mauna Kea

The Hamakua Coast

Don’t forget bug spray when exploring this warm, moist region, beloved by mosquitoes, and be ready for passing showers—you’re in rainbow territory here. Note: Some sights below are in the North Hilo district, just south of the official Hamakua district, which shares its rural character.

Akaka Falls

Akaka Falls State Park NATURAL ATTRACTION See one of the most scenic waterfalls in Hawaii via a relatively easy .4-mile paved loop through a rainforest, past bamboo and flowering ginger, and down to an observation point. You’ll have a perfect view of 442-foot Akaka Falls, plunging down a horseshoe-shaped green cliff, and nearby Kahuna Falls, a mere 100-footer. Keep your eyes peeled for rainbows; your ears are likely to pick up the two-note chirp of coqui frogs (see below). Facilities include restrooms and drinking water.

End of Akaka Falls Rd. (Hwy. 220), Honomu. dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii. From Hilo, drive north 8 miles on Hwy. 19 to left at Akaka Falls Rd. Follow 3½ miles to parking lot. $5 per car, $1 per person on foot or bicycle. Walk-ins sunrise to sunset, parking lot 8:30am–6pm daily.

Co-key, Co-key: What Is That Noise?

That loud, chirping noise you hear after dark on the Hilo side and elsewhere is the cry of the male coqui frog looking for a mate. A native of Puerto Rico, where the frogs are kept in check by snakes, coqui came to Hawaii in some plant material, found no natural enemies, and spread quickly across the Big Island, concentrated on the east side. (A handful have made it to Oahu, Maui, and Kauai, where they’ve been swiftly captured by

state agriculture teams devoted to eradicating the invasive species.) A few frogs will sound like singing birds; a chorus of thousands can be deafening—and on Hawaii Island, they can reach densities of up to 10,000 an acre. Coqui frogs don’t like the cool weather of Waimea and Volcano as much, but anywhere else that’s lush and rural is likely to have large populations. Pack earplugs if you’re a light sleeper.

Botanical World Adventures WATERFALL/GARDEN Just north of Hilo is one of the largest botanical gardens in Hawaii, with some 5,000 species. Although it no longer offers a vista of spectacular, triple-stacked Umauma Falls (see below), it still lays claim to a huge children’s maze (second in size only to Dole Plantation’s on Oahu), a tropical fruit arboretum, ethnobotanical and wellness gardens, and flower-lined walks. Waterfall lovers will be heartened to note that the owners have also created a road and trail leading to viewing areas above and below the previously hidden 100-foot Kamaee Falls ($6 if you want to go there only), as well as a trail leading past a series of shorter, bubbling cascades in Hanapueo Stream. If that’s just too peaceful for you, opt for one of the Segway tours, ranging from 30 minutes to 3 hours ($77–$197) or a zipline tour ($177 adults, $99 ages 4 to 12), which like guided walks should be reserved in advance. All tour rates include garden admission.

31-240 Old Mamalahoa Hwy., Hakalau. www.worldbotanicalgardens.com. 888/947-4753 or 808/963-5427. $15 adults, $7 teens 13–17, $3 children 5–12, free for children 4 and under. Guided 2-hr. garden tours $57 adults, $33 children 5–12; guided rainforest/waterfall tours $139. Guided tours require 24-hr. advance reservations. Daily 8:30am–5:30pm. From Hilo, take Hwy. 19 north past mile marker 16, turn left on Leopolino Rd., then right on Old Mamalahoa Hwy.; entrance is 1⁄10-mile on right.

Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden GARDEN More than 2,000 species of tropical plants thrive in this little-known Eden by the sea. The 40-acre valley garden, nestled between the crashing surf and a thundering waterfall, includes torch gingers (which tower on 12-ft. stalks), a banyan canyon, an orchid garden, a banana grove, a bromeliad hill, and a golden bamboo grove, which rattles like a jungle drum in the trade winds. Some endangered Hawaiian specimens, such as the rare Gardenia remyi, flourish here. The self-guided tour takes about 90 minutes, but you’re welcome to linger. Borrow an umbrella at the visitor center so that passing showers don’t curtail your visit. Note: You enter and exit the garden via a 500-foot-long boardwalk that descends along a verdant ravine. Free golf-cart assistance is provided for wheelchair users to reach the accessible path below; for those without wheelchairs but with limited physical ability, the cost to ride the cart there and back is $5.

27-717 Old Mamalahoa Hwy. (4-Mile Scenic Route), Papaikou. www.htbg.com. 808/964-5233. $20 adults, $5 children 6–16, free for children 5 and under. Daily 9am–5pm (last entry 4pm). From Hilo, take Hwy. 19 north 7 miles to right turn on Scenic Route; visitor center is 2 miles on the left.

Laupahoehoe Point HISTORIC SITE/NATURAL ATTRACTION This idyllic place holds a grim reminder of nature’s fury. On April 1, 1946, a tsunami swept away the schoolhouse that once stood on this peninsula and claimed the lives of 24 students, teachers, and residents. Their names are engraved on a stone memorial in a pretty beach park, and a display holds newspaper stories on the tragedy. The land here ends in black sea stacks that resemble tombstones; when high surf crashes on them, it’s positively spooky (and dangerous if you stand too close). The rough shoreline is not a place to swim, but the views are spectacular. Services include restrooms, picnic tables, and drinking water.

Laupahoehoe. From Hilo, take Hwy. 19 north 25 miles to Laupahoehoe Point exit, makai side; the exit is 31 miles south of Waimea.

Umauma Falls WATERFALL/GARDEN Formerly accessed through Botanical World Adventures (above), the triple-tiered, cascading pools of Umauma Falls are now the exclusive province of visitors to the neighboring Umauma Experience, which offers an array of ziplining, rappelling, swimming, kayaking, and ATV excursions on its lush 90 acres. The less adventurous can also just pay $12 to drive the paved road to the waterfall lookout, and then take a self-guided garden hike with several more overlooks; it’s worth it. Pick up a map at the visitor center, which also sells snacks and drinks, and enjoy your repast at the river walk’s observation area, under guava trees (feel free to sample their fruit when ripe), or on the visitor center’s back lanai, which overlooks the river, a giant swing for daredevils ($19 per ride), and the last line on the zip course (see “Ziplining” on p. 247). Note: Book online for best rates. Also, the swim in a waterfall pool (seen on The Bachelorette) allows a peek in one of the only petroglyphs on the island’s east side.

31-313 Old Mamalahoa Hwy., Hakalau. umaumaexperience.com. 808/930-9477. $10 adults, free for children 11 and under; includes waterfall viewing, garden, and river walk. Daily 8am–5pm. ATV tours from $119 for rider only to $379 including driver and up to 3 passengers; kayak/swim/picnic $50; waterfall rappelling $285; zipline tours $181–$241. From Hilo, take Hwy. 19 north past mile marker 16, turn left on Leopolino Rd., then right on Old Mamalahoa Hwy., and follow ½-mile to entrance.

Waipio Valley NATURAL ATTRACTION/HISTORIC SITE This breathtakingly beautiful valley has long been a source of fascination, inspiring song and story. From the black-sand bay at its mouth, Waipio (“curving water”) sweeps 6 miles between sheer, cathedral-like walls some 2,000 feet high. The tallest waterfall in Hawaii, Hiilawe, tumbles 1,300 feet from its rear cliffs. Called “the valley of kings” for the royal burial caves dotting forbiddingly steep walls, this was Kamehameha’s boyhood residence; up to 10,000 Hawaiians are thought to have lived here before Westerners arrived. Chinese immigrants later joined them and a modest town arose, but it was destroyed in 1946 by the same tsunami that devastated Hilo and Laupahoehoe, though luckily without fatalities. The town was never rebuilt; only about 50 people live here today, most with no electricity or phones, although others come down on weekends to tend taro patches, camp, and fish.

A Taste of the hamakua coast

When the Hamakua Sugar Company—the Big Island’s last sugar plantation—closed in 1996, it left a huge void in the local economy, transforming already shrinking villages into near ghost towns. But some residents turned to specialty crops that are now sought after by chefs throughout the islands. Hidden in the tall eucalyptus trees outside the old plantation community of Paauilo, the Hawaiian Vanilla Company (www.hawaiianvanilla.com; 808/776-1771) is the first U.S. farm to grow vanilla. Before you even enter the huge Vanilla Gallery, you will be embraced by the heavenly scent of vanilla. The farm hosts one of the most sensuous experiences on the island, the four-course Hawaiian Vanilla Luncheon ($48 for age 12 and up; $28 for kids 4–11), served weekdays from 12:30 to 2:30pm. The 45-minute Farm Tour ($25 for age 4 and up; free for kids 3 and under), including dessert and tastings, takes place weekdays at 1pm. Reservations required for luncheon or tour; the gallery and gift shop are open 10am to 3pm weekdays.

Saddle up for a horseback ride in lush Waipio Valley

To get to Waipio Valley, take Highway 19 from Waimea or Hilo to Highway 240 in Honokaa, and follow the highway almost 10 miles to Kukuihaele Road and the Waipio Valley Lookout , a grassy park and picnic area on the edge of Waipio Valley’s sheer cliffs, with splendid views of the wild oasis below.

To explore the valley itself, a guided tour is best, for reasons of safety and access. The steep road has a grade of nearly 40% in places and is narrow and potholed; by law, you must use a 4WD vehicle, but even then rental-car agencies ban their vehicles from it, to avoid pricey tow jobs. Hiking down the 900-foot-road is hard on the knees going down and the lungs coming up, and requires dodging cars in both directions. Most of the valley floor is privately owned, with trespassing actively discouraged. Note that unmarked burial sites lie just behind the black-sand beach, which is not good for swimming or snorkeling and has no facilities.

Instead, book a ride on the Waipio Valley Shuttle (www.waipiovalleyshuttle.com; 808/775-7121) for a 90- to 120-minute guided tour that begins with an exciting (and bumpy) drive down in an open-door van. Once on the valley floor, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of Hiilawe, plus a narrated tour of the taro patches (lo’i) and ruins from the 1946 tsunami. The tour is offered Monday through Saturday at 9am, 11am, 1pm, and 3pm; tickets are $65 for adults and $35 for kids 10 and under (minimum two adult fares); reservations recommended. Check-in is less than a mile from the lookout at Waipio Valley Artworks (www.waipiovalleyartworks.com; 808/775-0958), 48-5416 Kukuihaele Rd., Honokaa. The gallery is also the pickup point for Naalapa Stables’ Waipio Valley Horseback Adventure (www.naalapastables.com; 808/755-0419), a 2½-hour guided ride ($110) in the valley; see “Horseback Riding” (p. 245) for details.

The mule-drawn surrey of Waipio Valley Wagon Tours (www.waipiovalleywagontours.com; 808/775-9518) offers a narrated, 90-minute excursion following a van trip to the valley stables. Tours run Monday through Saturday at 10:30am, 12:30pm, and 2:30pm; cost is $60 adults, $55 seniors 65 and older, $30 children 3 to 11, and free for 2 and younger. Reservations are a must, since weight distribution is a factor. Check-in is at Neptune’s Garden, 48-5300 Kukuihaele Road, Honokaa (www.neptunesgarden.net; 808/775-1343).

Hilo

Pick up the map to a self-guided walking tour of Hilo, which focuses on 21 historic sites dating from the 1870s to the present, at the information kiosk of the Downtown Hilo Improvement Association (www.downtownhilo.com; 808/935-8850) in the Mooheau Park Bus Terminal, 329 Kamehameha Ave.—the first stop on the tour.

Hilo Bay NATURAL ATTRACTION Old banyan trees shade Banyan Drive , the lane that curves along the waterfront from Kamehameha Avenue (Hwy. 19) to the Hilo Bay hotels. Most of the trees were planted in the mid-1930s by visitors like Cecil B. DeMille (here in 1933 filming Four Frightened People), Babe Ruth (his tree is in front of the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel), King George V, Amelia Earhart, and celebs whose fleeting fame didn’t last as long as the trees themselves.

It’s worth a stop along Banyan Drive—especially if the coast is clear and the summit of Mauna Kea is free of clouds—to make the short walk across the concrete-arch bridge to Moku Ola (Coconut Island) , for a panoramic sense of Hilo Bay and its surroundings.

Continuing on Banyan Drive, just south of Coconut Island, are Liliuokalani Gardens , the largest formal Japanese garden this side of Tokyo. The 30-acre park, named for the last monarch of Hawaii, Queen Liliuokalani, and dedicated in 1917 to the islands’ first Japanese immigrants, is picturesque (if occasionally a little unkempt), with stone lanterns, koi ponds, pagodas, rock gardens, bonsai, and a moon-gate bridge. Admission is free; it’s open 24 hours.

Kaumana Caves Park NATURAL ATTRACTION Pick up an inexpensive flashlight or headlight ($5–$15) at Walmart in Hilo or Kona before visiting this wilder, longer sibling to the more famous Nahuku (Thurston) lava tube (p. 207) in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. As the sign warns, there are “no lights, no walkway” in this eerily fascinating set of caves formed by an 1881 lava flow that threatened downtown Hilo. Princess Ruth Keelikolani is credited with saving the town by praying to Pele to halt the lava. You can thank the county for maintaining the steep concrete stairs leading into the lava tube’s fern-lined “skylight,” where the larger right entrance offers a short loop trail and the left entrance leads to a more challenging (that is, watch your head) out-and-back path. Your flashlight will help you spot the lava that cooled fast enough to keep its red cover, and help you avoid stumbling over protruding roots. Wear long sleeves, since it can be cool and dripping, and sturdy shoes, to avoid slipping on the often-slick cave floor.

Kaumana Dr. (Hwy. 200), west of Akala Road (4-mile marker), Hilo. Driving from Hilo, caves are on right and parking lot is on left; cross road carefully. Free.

Lyman Museum & Mission House MUSEUM/HISTORIC SITE Yankee missionaries Rev. David and Sarah Lyman had been married for just 24 days before they set sail for Hawaii in 1832, arriving 6 months later in a beautiful but utterly foreign land. Seven years later, they built this two-story home for their growing family (eventually seven children) in a blend of Hawaiian and New England design, with plastered walls, koa floors, and lanais on both floors. It’s now the Mission House, a museum of 19th-century missionary life. You can only visit the house as part of a guided tour, offered twice daily except Sunday.

The larger, modern Lyman Museum next door gives a broader perspective of Hawaiian history and culture. Walk through a lava tube and make your way through multiple climate zones in the Earth Heritage Gallery’s “Habitats of Hawaii” exhibit, with recorded bird sounds and full-scale replicas of sea life; mineral and shell enthusiasts can pore over an extensive collection. The Island Heritage Gallery examines the life of early Hawaiians, with artifacts such as stone poi pounders, wooden bowls, and kapa, the delicate bark cloth; other displays showcase clothing and other artifacts of plantation-era immigrant cultures.

276 Haili St. (at Kapiolani St.). www.lymanmuseum.org. 808/935-5021. $10 adults, $8 seniors 60 and over, $5 college students, $3 children 6–17; $21 per family. Mon–Sat 10am–4:30pm; guided house tours at 11am and 2pm (call to reserve).

Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Factory FACTORY TOUR It’s a 3-mile drive through macadamia nut orchards before you reach the visitor center of this factory, where you can learn how the islands’ favorite nut is grown and processed. (It’s best to visit weekdays, when the actual husking, drying, roasting, and candy-making takes place; otherwise, you can watch short videos at each station.) The gift shop—mobbed when tour buses are in the parking lot—offers free samples and predictable souvenirs; a few items, such as Maunaloa chocolate-dipped macadamia nut shortbread, appear to be exclusive.

16-701 Macadamia Rd., Keaau (5 miles from Hilo, 20 miles from Hawaii Volcanoes National Park). www.maunaloa.com/visitor-center. 888/628-6256 or 808/966-8618. Free; self-guided factory tours. Daily 8:30am–5pm (factory closed weekdays and holidays). Heading south from Hilo on Hwy. 11, turn left on Macadamia Rd., and head 3 miles to factory; it’s 20 miles north of Volcano.

Mokupapapa Discovery Center MUSEUM You may never get to the vast coral-reef system that is the Northwest Hawaiian Islands—the protected chain of islets and atolls spanning 1,200 nautical miles is remote (stretching from Nihoa, 155 miles northwest of Kauai, to Kure Atoll, 56 miles west of Midway), and visitation is severely limited. But if you’re in downtown Hilo, you can explore the wonders of the region that President George W. Bush protected as Papahanaumokuakea Marine National Monument in 2008 (and President Barack Obama expanded in 2016). Inside a handsomely renovated, century-old building, the Mokupapapa Discovery Center reveals the beauties and mysteries of the World Heritage Site’s ecosystem and its relationship with Hawaiian culture. Exhibits include a 3,500-gallon saltwater aquarium with brilliant coral and reef fish; the sounds of Hawaiian chants and seabirds; interactive displays on each of the islets; a life-size Hawaiian monk seal exhibit, and life-size models of giant fish, sharks, and the manta ray. Both the content and the cost of admission—free—are great for families.

Imiloa: Exploring the unknown

The star attraction, literally and figuratively, of Hilo is Imiloa: Astronomy Center of Hawaii . The 300 exhibits in the 12,000-square-foot gallery make the connection between the Hawaiian culture and its explorers, who “discovered” the Hawaiian Islands, and the astronomers who explore the heavens from the observatories atop Mauna Kea. ’Imiloa means “explorer” or “seeker of profound truth,” the perfect name for this architecturally stunning center overlooking Hilo Bay on the University of Hawaii at Hilo Science and Technology Park campus, 600 Imiloa Place (www.imiloahawaii.org; 808/969-9700). Plan to spend at least a couple of hours here to allow time to browse the excellent, family-friendly interactive exhibits on astronomy and Hawaiian culture, and to take in a planetarium show, which boasts a state-of-the-art digital projection system. You’ll also want to stroll through the native plant garden, and grab a power breakfast or lunch in the Sky Garden Restaurant ( 808/969-9753), open 7am to 4pm Tuesday through Sunday; the restaurant is also open for dinner Thursday through Sunday from 5 to 8:30pm. The center itself is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9am to 5pm; admission is $19 for adults, $17 for seniors, $12 for children 5 to 12, and free for kids 4 and younger. Prices include one planetarium show; additional shows are $4.

76 Kamehameha Ave. (at the corner of Waianuenue Ave.). www.papahanaumokuakea.gov/education/center.html. 808/933-8180. Free. Tues–Sat 9am–4pm.

Nani Mau Gardens GARDEN In 1972 Makato Nitahara turned a 20-acre papaya patch just outside Hilo into a tropical garden. Today Nani Mau (“forever beautiful”) holds more than 2,000 varieties of plants, from fragile hibiscus, whose blooms last only a day, to durable red anthuriums imported from South America. It also has rare palms, a fruit orchard, Japanese gardens (with a bell tower built without nails), an orchid walkway, and a ginger garden. A garden restaurant that’s popular with tour companies offers a popular buffet lunch. Served daily from 10:30am to 2pm, it’s $18 and includes garden admission.

421 Makalika St. www.nanimaugardens.com. 808/959-3500. $10 adults, $5 seniors and children 4–10; with lunch, $18 adults, $15 seniors and children 4–10. Daily 10am–3pm. From Hilo Airport, take Hwy. 11 south 2 miles to second left turn at Makalika St., and continue ¾ mile.

Pacific Tsunami Museum MUSEUM Poignant exhibits on Japan’s 2011 tsunami (which caused significant property damage on the Big Island) and the 2004 Indian Ocean tragedy have broadened the international perspective in this compact museum, where displays explain the science of the deadly phenomenon. Stories and artifacts related to Hilo’s two most recent catastrophic tsunamis are impressive, including a parking meter nearly bent in two by the force of the 1960 killer waves, and accounts from survivors of the 1946 tsunami that washed away the school at Laupahoehoe. Many of the volunteers have hair-raising stories of their own to share—but you’ll feel better after reading about the warning systems now in place.

130 Kamehameha Ave. (at the corner of Kalakaua Ave.). www.tsunami.org. 808/935-0926. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $4 children 6–17, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sat 10am–4pm.

Helicopter tour of Kilauea volcano lava flow

Panaewa Rainforest Zoo & Gardens ZOO/GARDEN This 12-acre zoo, in the heart of the Panaewa Forest Reserve south of Hilo, is the only outdoor rainforest zoo in the U.S. Some 80 species of animals from rainforests around the globe call Panaewa home, including tigers Tzatziki and Sriracha, as do a couple of “Kona nightingales”—donkeys that escaped decades ago from coffee farms. (Though highway signs still warn of them, virtually all were relocated to California in 2011 during a prolonged drought.) The Panaewa residents enjoy fairly natural, sometimes overgrown settings. Look for cute pygmy goats, capuchin monkeys, and giant anteaters, among other critters. This free attraction includes a covered playground popular with local families.

800 Stainback Hwy., Keaau (off Hwy. 11, 5 miles south of its intersection with Hwy. 19 in downtown Hilo). www.hilozoo.org. 808/959-7224. Free. Daily 9am–4pm. Petting zoo Sat 1:30–2:30pm. Alligator feeding daily 1:30pm.

Wailuku River State Park WATERFALLS Go in the morning, around 9 or 10am, just as the sun comes over the mango trees, to see Rainbow Falls , or Waianuenue, at its best. Part of the 16-acre Wailuku River State Park, the 80-foot falls (which can be slender in times of drought) spill into a big round natural pool surrounded by wild ginger. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch a rainbow created in the falls’ mist. According to legend, Hina, the mother of demigod Maui, once lived in the cave behind the falls. Swimming in the pool is not allowed, but you can follow a trail left through the trees to the top of the falls (watch your step). Swimming in Boiling Pots (Pe’epe’e in Hawaiian), a series of cascading pools 1½ miles west, is extremely risky due to flash floods, but the view from an overlook near the parking lot is impressive.

Rainbow Falls area: Rainbow Dr., just past the intersection of Waianuenue Ave. (Hwy. 200) and Puuhina St. Boiling Pots area: end of Pe’epe’e Falls Dr., off Waianuenue Ave. dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii. Free. Daily during daylight hours.

Puna

Most visitors understandably want to head straight to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (p. 205) when exploring this region, where Pele may consume the land, while creating even more. But the celebrated national park is far from the only place where you can experience Puna’s geothermal wonders, or see the destruction the volcano has wrought—provided it’s safe and legal to do so.

Start in Pahoa with a 5-minute detour from the plantation town’s center to its transfer station (i.e., landfill and recycling center) on Cemetery Road. There you’ll see the ominous edge of the thick but slow-moving lava flow in 2014–2015 that halted only after many in its predicted path had relocated. In 2018, residents of isolated Pahoa suburbs Leilani Estates and Lanipuna Gardens were not so lucky; many lost their homes and farms to rivers of lava that spewed from fissures in the Lower East Rift Zone—a known hazard at the time the county approved those subdivisions.

Many in the area still have memories of the 1990 eruption that covered the town of Kalapana, 9 miles from Pahoa along Highway 130. Steam came out of cracks in the road during the 2018 eruption, prompting the county to put steel plates over them, but luckily the highway survived.

Just before it meets Highway 137 in Kalapana, you’ll see Star of the Sea Painted Church on your left. Built in 1930, the quaint, pale-green wooden church features an elaborately painted interior similar to St. Benedict’s in Captain Cook (p. 186). It was moved here from Kalapana in advance of the 1990 lava flow.

If lava is pouring into the sea west of Kalapana, the county will open a lava viewing area (www.hawaiicounty.gov/lava-viewing) where Highway 130 meets the emergency gravel road heading into the national park. Vendors then set up bike rental stands to make it easier to get closer to the ocean entry; typically, if there’s no lava, there are no bikes.

The 1990 lava flow also entombed the town of Kaimu and its beautiful beach under acres of rock, while leaving behind a new black-sand beach. Called both Kaimu and Kalapana Beach, it’s reached by walking along a short red-cinder trail from the parking area in Kalapana past fascinating fissures and dramatically craggy rocks, where ohia lehua and coconut palms are growing rapidly. Such trees are used to rugged conditions, as are the people of Puna, who gather in great numbers at the open-air Uncle Robert’s Awa Club for its two weekly evening events: the vibrant Wednesday-night food and crafts market and Hawaiian music on Fridays. The rest of the week, the club sells snacks and drinks during the day “by donation” for permit purposes (be aware the staff will let you know exactly how much to donate).

Adventurers (or exhibitionists) may want to make the tricky hike down to unmarked Kehena Black Sand Beach , off Highway 137 about 3½ miles east of Kalapana. Here the law against public nudity is widely ignored, although the view of the ocean is usually more entrancing. (Clothed or not, avoid going into the water—currents are dangerous.) Thanks to the 2018 lava flow, Highway 137, also known as the “Red Road” (for the rosy-hued cinders that once paved it), currently dead-ends about 9 miles northeast of Kalapana, at the spooky, ironwood-shaded cliffs in MacKenzie State Recreation Area , which has picnic and restroom facilities. The surf crashes fiercely against the rocks here; stay away from the edge and watch your footing.

A new emergency access road (best suited to 4WD vehicles) crosses over the buried highway from MacKenzie to Isaac Hale Beach Park in Pohoiki, which emerged from the 2018 eruption minus its popular surf breaks, children’s playground, and water fountains, among other facilities. On the plus side: The park has four new thermal ponds and a lagoon created by a black-sand beach that formed when sizzling lava fragmented in the cool ocean water. Note: Bring your own drinking water and stay out of the warm ponds if you have any cuts or open wounds.

The same immense lava flow, which covered almost 14 square miles (35.5 square km) of Lower Puna and add 875 acres of new land, unfortunately destroyed the main road and almost every attraction east of Pohoiki, including the beautiful thermal pool at Ahalanui Park, the marine life conservation district of Waiopae Tidepools, Kapoho Bay, the twin vacation-oriented communities of Kapoho Vacationland and Kapoho Beach Lots and their thermal ponds, and Green Lake, a natural reservoir inside Kapoho Crater that the lava ruthlessly turned into steam. Although it wasn’t accessible at press time, due to berms of lava on Highway 132 south of Pahoa, one surviving landmark stands as a literal beacon of hope and resilience. Marking the island’s easternmost point, Cape Kumukahi Lighthouse miraculously survived the 1960 lava flow that destroyed the original village of Kapoho and then remained untouched again in 2018. Who cares if its modern steel frame isn’t all that quaint? The fact that it’s standing at all is impressive—in 1960, the molten lava parted in two and flowed around it—while its bright-white trusses provide a striking contrast to the black lava.

The open portion of Highway 132 from Pahoa leads 2¾ miles southeast to Lava Tree State Monument (see below), an equally fitting if eerie reminder of nature’s power in Puna. In 1790, a fast-moving lava flow raced through a grove of ohia lehua trees here, cooling quickly and so creating rock molds of their trunks. Today the ghostly sentinels punctuate a well-shaded, paved .7-mile loop trail through the rich foliage of the 17-acre park. Facilities include restrooms and a few spots for picnicking (or ducking out of the rain during one of the area’s frequent showers). Some areas with deep fissures are fenced off, but keep to the trail regardless for safe footing. It’s open daily during daylight hours; see the state parks site, dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii, for details.

Vog & Other Volcanic Vocabulary

Hawaiian volcanoes have their own unique vocabulary. The lava that resembles ropy swirls of brownie batter is called pahoehoe (pah-hoy-hoy); it results from a fast-moving flow that ripples as it moves. The chunky, craggy lava that looks like someone put asphalt in a blender is called ’a’a (ah-ah); it’s caused by lava that moves slowly, breaking apart as it cools, and then overruns itself. Vog is smog made of volcanic gases and smoke, which can sting your eyes and over long exposure can cause respiratory issues. Present whenever there’s an active eruption, vog drifts toward Kona (and even as far as Maui or beyond) during prevailing trade winds. The state Department of Health (www.hiso2index.info) lists current air-quality advisories for the Big Island, based on sulfur dioxide levels; since the eruption ended in September 2018, the skies have been gloriously clear.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Before tourism became the islands’ middle name, their singular attraction for visitors wasn’t the beach, but the volcano. From the world over, curious spectators gathered on the rim of Kilauea’s Halemaumau crater to see one of the greatest wonders of the globe. More than a century after it was named a national park in 1916, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (www.nps.gov/havo; 808/985-6000) remains the state’s premier natural attraction, home to two active volcanoes and one of only two World Heritage Sites in the islands.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

In May 2018, Halemaumau was rattled by earthquakes and its lava lake started to drain. At the same time lava started coursing through fissures in Puna, the crater began expelling ash and rocks in a manner not seen since 1924, when boulders landed a half-mile away due to steam explosions caused by magma sinking into the water table. Forced to close for safety reasons, the park reopened in September 2018, but not before the seismic upheaval had caused the crater to quadruple in volume.

Sadly, after driving about 100 miles from Kailua-Kona or 29 miles from Hilo, many visitors pause only briefly by the highlights along Crater Rim Drive before heading back to their hotels. To allow the majesty and mana (spiritual energy) of this special place to sink in, you should really take at least 2 or 3 days—and certainly 1 night—to explore the park, including its miles of trails.

Fortunately, the admission fee ($25 per vehicle, $12 per bicyclist or hiker) is good for 7 days. Be prepared for rain and bring a jacket, especially in winter, when it can be downright chilly at night, in the 40s or 50s (single digits to midteens Celsius). Note: For details on hiking and camping in the park, see “Hiking” (p. 242) and “Camping” (p. 265).

Crater Rim Drive Tour

Stop by the Kilauea Visitor Center (daily 9am–5pm) to get the latest updates on any lava flows and the day’s free ranger-led tours and to watch an informative 25-minute film, shown hourly from 9am to 4pm. Just beyond the center lies vast Kilauea Caldera , a circular depression nearly 2 miles by 3 miles and 540 feet deep. It’s easy to imagine Mark Twain marveling over the sights here in 1866, when a wide, molten lava lake bubbled in the caldera’s Halemaumau Crater , the legendary home of volcano goddess Pele.

Though different today, the caldera’s panorama is still compelling, especially when viewed while enjoying drinks or dinner in Volcano House (p. 265), the only public lodge and restaurant in the park. The 2018 eruption that drained Halemaumau’s lava lake and snuffed out its decade-old plume of ash also caused wall collapses that dramatically widened and deepened the crater. The unrelenting seismic activity also cracked pavement and damaged the Jaggar Museum along Crater Rim Drive, half of which had been closed due to potentially toxic fumes since 2008. At press time, the museum had yet to reopen, with many of its artifacts and displays on exhibit in a temporary exhibition space in Pahoa, and the portion of Crater Rim Drive and its paralleling Crater Rim Trail between Kilauea Military Camp and the museum remained closed.

Less than a mile from the visitor center, though, you’ll want to check out the several steam vents that line the rim of the caldera, puffing out moist warm air. Across the road, a boardwalk leads through the stinky, smoking sulphur banks , home to ohia lehua trees and unfazed native birds. (As with all trails here, stay on the path to avoid possible serious injury, or worse.)

Heading southeast from the visitor center, Crater Rim Drive passes by the smaller but still impressive Kilauea Iki Crater , which in 1959 was a roiling lava lake flinging lava 1,900 feet into the air. From here, it’s a short walk or drive to Nahuku (Thurston Lava Tube) , a 500-year-old lava cave in a pit of giant tree ferns and partly illuminated for easier traversing of its damp, uneven floor. If it has reopened by the time of your visit, take a flashlight and wear sturdy shoes so you can explore the unlit area for another half-mile or so.

Continuing on Crater Rim Drive leads to the Puu Puai Overlook of Kilauea Iki, where you find the upper trailhead of the aptly named half-mile Devastation Trail , an easy walk through a cinder field. Be aware both the overlook and upper trailhead may close to protect breeding nene. However, you can always pick up the lower trailhead where Crater Rim Drive meets Chain of Craters Road .

Pedestrians and cyclists only can continue on Crater Rim Drive for the next .8 mile of road, closed to vehicular traffic since the 2008 eruption. The little-traveled pavement leads to Keanakakoi Crater , scene of several eruptions in the 19th and 20th centuries. It provides yet another dazzling perspective on the Kilauea Caldera; turn your gaze north for an impressive view of Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, the world’s two highest mountains when measured from the sea floor.

Chain of Craters Road

It’s natural to drive slowly down the 19-mile Chain of Craters Road, which descends 3,700 feet to the sea and ends in a thick black mass of rock from a 2003 lava flow. You feel like you’re driving on the moon, if the lunar horizon were a brilliant blue sea. Pack food and water for the journey, since there are officially no concessions after you pass the Volcano House; the nearest fuel lies outside the park, in Volcano Village.

Please Brake for Nene

Nene, the endangered native Hawaiian goose and state bird, are making a comeback in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and other high-altitude areas in the islands, where they feast on the cranberry-like ohelo berries that grow at upper elevations. Unfortunately, these uplands are often misty, and the birds’ feathers blend easily with the pavement, making it hard for inattentive drivers to see them. Drive carefully, and to discourage nene from approaching cars, don’t feed them.