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The Laminated Jaw

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There are two good reasons to use five separate boards to laminate a blank for the movable vise jaw (piece 17): It will be more stable than a single board, and it will be far stronger. Follow the jaw lamination layout on page 10 to face glue and clamp the blank together.

Using the pattern drawing on page 15, cut the jaw to shape on your band saw, and then sand out the saw marks with a 2" drum sander. Shape the outside bottom and side edges with a ½"-radius guided beading bit chucked in your portable router.

Step-by-Step Drawer Joints


Step 1: Install a 3/8" dado head and a zero-clearance insert in the saw, and cut a rabbet at the end of each drawer front and back.


Step 2: Without moving the rip fence, switch to the miter fence to form matching dadoes in the drawer sides.


Step 3: Dry fit the joints, and then switch to a ¼" dado head to cut the grooves for the bottoms.

To locate the holes in the jaw for the guide rods and screw, remove the screw and guide rods, clamp the jaw in place, and use the vise mounting plate as a guide to locate the three holes. Drill these holes ⅛" oversize.

Slip the laminated jaw over the guide rods and the screw, and then gently wind the vise closed. Position the wooden jaw flush with the top and sides of the worktop’s endcap, drill pilot holes for the mounting screws, and drive them home.

Workshop Projects

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