Читать книгу Cambodian Cooking - Joannes Riviere - Страница 8

Ingredients

Asian shallots are small and round and have a pinkish-purple color. Shallots add a sweet oniony flavor and a hint of garlic to countless dishes. They are also sliced, deep-fried and used as a garnish.

Banana flowers are the unopened male flowers of the banana plant—a purple-red inflorescence tinged with yellow at the base that hangs at the end of a clump of developing bananas. The hearts of these flowers, which have been stripped off their purple petals, are a popular salad ingredient in some Southeast Asia cuisines. Fresh, canned and dried banana flowers can often be found in specialty stores outside Asia, particularly those stocking Vietnamese and Thai ingredients. Choose a firm, large flower with an even color and check that the outer petals are not wilted. To prepare the flower for cooking, remove the coarse outer petals to reveal the creamy white heart. Quarter the heart lengthwise with an oiled stainless steel knife to avoid the sticky sap clinging to it. If not cooking immediately, soak in cold water or rub with lemon or lime juice to avoid discoloration. Simmer the cut heart in plenty of lightly salted water until tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Drain, cool then pull out and discard the hard filaments inside each cluster of yellow stamens as they have an unpleasant texture. Cabbage leaves may be used as a substitute.

Banana leaves are used to wrap food for steaming or grilling. The moisture and flavor of the banana leaf makes a difference to the texture and flavor of the food, but if you can’t find fresh or frozen banana leaf, use aluminum foil. Before using to wrap food, the leaves should be softened for easy folding, either by soaking in hot water for 5 to 10 minutes or briefly heating over a low flame.

Basil Two types of basil are used in the recipes in this book: Holy Basil is known as merap prey in Cambodian and kaprow in Thai. This variety, which can reach several feet in height, has a unique smell, that is a combination of sweet Italian basil and geranium. Holy basil is a common ingredient in Cambodian cuisine—it is often added at the end of the cooking in stir-fry dishes or to stuffings. It can be found in most Asian grocery stores, and may be substituted with Thai basil. Thai Basil, known as chie nieng vong in Cambodian, horapa in Thai and húng qúê in Vietnamese has a dark green leaf. Its aroma is similar to Italian basil, with a slight aniseed tang. Thai basil is used frequently in Cambodia to flavor salads and soups. Like most basils, it should only be added to the dish at the very last moment, otherwise it will lose its fragrance. Thai basil is available in some well-stocked supermarkets or Asian markets. It will keep well in the refrigerator for a few days. Fresh coriander leaves (cilantro) can be substituted, but the flavor will not be the same. It is, however, a better alternative than sweet Italian basil.

Bitter Khmer Leaves This bitter leaf, also referred to simply as bitter leaf or Sdao, is often blanched before use to reduce its bitterness. Sorrel leaves are a good substitute, but are usually only available seasonally. However, fresh spinach can also be substituted.

Chili peppers come in many shapes, sizes and colors. Fresh green and red Asian finger-length chilies are moderately hot. Tiny red, green or orange bird’s-eye chilies (chili padi) are very hot. Dried chili peppers, known as mate phlao krim in Cambodia, refer to mild finger-length chili peppers, with their seeds removed, which have been salted and then dried. They must be soaked before crushing, to remove any surplus salt. Dried chilies can be found in most Asian grocery stores, and will keep indefinitely. If necessary, finger-length fresh chili peppers, with their seeds and inner membranes removed, can be substituted.

Coriander leaves are also known as cilantro or Chinese parsley. Available fresh, the roots, stems and leaves are all used in cooking. They are strongly flavored, so use sparingly. Available in most supermarkets—but if you cannot find, use regular parsley with a few fresh basil leaves added.

Daikon radish is a large, crisp, white-fleshed radish, with a sweet and clean flavor. It is a vegetable that is widely used in Japanese and Korean cooking, and can be eaten raw, or cooked. The skin needs to be peeled or scrubbed before using. Daikon is available from Asian markets and many well-stocked supermarkets.

Dried Cambodian fish, known as trey niet, is filleted fish that has been cured in salt and sugar and then dried. It has a delicate flavor. Dried fish must always be lightly fried before using. It is available in Asian groceries, but if necessary, it can be replaced by salt cod that has been soaked to remove some of the salt, or with fresh cooked fish.

Eggplants used in Asia are generally of the slender, purple-skinned variety, 15–20 cm (6–8 in) long. They are mild and need not be salted before use.

Fish paste, or prahok, is one of the most distinctive ingredients in Cambodian cooking. It is fish that has been preserved in salt until it breaks down into a paste. It has a very strong cheese-like smell that many Westerners find unappetizing, but it undoubtedly adds a depth of flavor to Cambodian food. Prahok is available in Asian grocery stores and can always be replaced by its Thai equivalent (nam prik pha), the Laotian equivalent (padek) or by dried shrimp paste (belachan).

Fish sauce, known as teuk trey, is a thin, salty sauce that is made with the juice that is leftover from preparing prahok. It looks like soy sauce, but has a very strong smell. Fish sauce is available in supermarkets and in Asian groceries and its Vietnamese (nuoc mam) or Thai (nam pla) equivalents can be substituted.

Galangal is also known in English as Thai Ginger and as rumdeng in Cambodia. A cream-colored white root with a distinct flavor that is used to flavor curry pastes and soups. Galangal is very fibrous and therefore must be sliced very fine, cross-wise, before using. It is available in Asian grocery stores and in some supermarkets. It will keep for several weeks in the refrigerator and it also freezes well, either whole or chopped.

Green mangoes In Cambodia, the mango season only lasts just one month. The man-goes are usually not left to ripen, but are used when still green, either in a salad or sprinkled with salt and chili.They can also be used to tenderize meat. Green mangoes can be puchased in Asian and Indian markets, and sometimes supermarkets.

Green peppercorns These perishable peppercorns are available packed in brine or water in jars or freeze-dried. The green peppercorn is the soft unripe berry, and is less pungent than the riper black and white peppercorns.

Jicama, known in Cambodian as pek koa and in much of the rest of Southeast Asia as bengkuang, is a root vegetable with milky white flesh. In Cambodia, it is eaten on its own, in salads, or with a mixture of salt, sugar and chili peppers. The larger specimens are sometimes used to make a stock or soup. Jicama is found in most supermarkets but can be substituted with a mild variety of apple, such as Golden Delicious.

Kaffir lime leaves are known as kroy saoch in Cambodia. They are dark green and glossy and are used very much like bay leaves are used in Western cooking. Kaffir lime leaves are added to curries or, the central vein is removed and the leaves are sliced very finely and added to salads and stir-fries where they contribute wonderful fragrance, interesting texture and vivid color. Fresh, frozen and dried leaves are available in Asian grocery stores.They will last for several months in the freezer. If you can’t find fresh leaves, you can use dried for stews, soups and other long-cooking dishes, though you should use twice as many dried leaves and remove the whole leaves before serving.You can also substitute lemongrass, but the flavor will not be quite the same.

Krachai, also known as Chinese keys or lesser ginger, is an unusual rhizome which looks like a bunch of yellowish-brown fingers. it is known as kchiey in Cambodian and is specific to Cambodian cooking and its aroma is sometimes compared to lavender. It is often used in curry pastes and gives Amok, a classic Khmer dish, its very special flavor.

Lemongrass, known as slok krey in Cambodia, is a fibrous stalk with a white bulb at the root end and flat leaves at the top. The tough outer layers are usually removed and the tender white stalk is chopped or sliced and used in curry pastes, marinades and soups. The leaves can be used to make lemon-flavored tea. Lemongrass is available in some supermarkets and in Asian grocery stores. It keeps well in the refrigerator or it can be frozen (either whole or chopped).

Oyster mushrooms are fan-shaped mushrooms that are usually white or grayish-brown in color. They grow in clusters and are sometimes known as abalone mushrooms.

Palm sugar is known as skoa tnaot in Cambodia. It has a rich caramel flavor that is more complex than that of cane sugar. Palm sugar is made from the sap of the sugar palm tree (Arenga Pinnata). The sap is reduced to a syrup which is then dehydrated. Palm sugar is available in Asian grocery stores or health food stores. For an authentic preparation, bring the sugar to a boil with a little water to make a thick syrup very like the fresh alternative. You can substitute dark brown sugar, but only use half the quantity that the recipe calls for. You can also substitute maple syrup, although you will need to double the quantity that the recipe calls for.

Pomelo is a citrus somewhat similar to grapefruit. It has greenish-yellow skin and pink flesh. The pomelo is drier, sweeter and has a much thicker and tougher peel. It is eaten as a fruit or broken up for salads. Grapefruit may be used as a substitute.

Pork belly is a fresh cut of meat that comes from the underside of the pig. The same cut is used to make American bacon. It can be purchased at Asian markets or as a special order at a butchershop or meat counter.

Rice flour is made from ground long grain rice and is used to make dough and batter, mainly for desserts. Fresh rice flour was traditionally made by soaking rice overnight and grinding it slowly in a stone mill. The same result may be achieved by grinding soaked rice in a blender. Dried rice flour is available in natural foods and Asian specialty shops.

Rice paddy herb, known as mô am in Cambodia and rau om in Vietnam, has a pungent aroma and is used exclusively in soups, especially Cambodian Sour Soup. It is available in most Asian grocery stores and will keep for a few days in the fridge. Coriander can be used as a substitute.

Sawtooth herb is also known as Mexican Coriander and as chi ana in Cambodia and ngo gai in Vietnam. Its leaves are long, with a serrated edge and its flavor and aroma is reminiscent of ordinary coriander, but stronger. The fresh leaves are used very often in Cambodian cooking, usually added to soups at the end of cooking or to salads. Sawtooth herb can be found in Asian grocery stores and will keep in the refrigerator for up to one week. Substitute fresh coriander leaves.

Star anise, known as pka tian in Cambodia, is a dried spice that looks like an eight-pointed brown star. Each point contains a shiny seed with the specific smell that belongs to this spice. Star anise is one of the ingredients for Khmer curry, as well as certain soups, and can be found quite easily on supermarket shelves.

Tamarind, is known as ampeul in Cambodia. The tamarind pod is light brown in color and can be quite long—up to 8 in (20 cm). The pod contains sour pulp and hard, shiny seeds. In Cambodia, tamarind is often eaten green (unripe) with a salt and chili condiment, or ripe as it is. The seeds are also ground and added to various sauces. Ripe tamarind pods are available at specialty produce markets and sometimes in well-stocked supermarkets. Tamarind pulp can also be bought separately and will keep for a long time if it is dried.

Turmeric, known as romiet in Cambodia, is a rhizome that looks like fresh ginger root, but is smaller and more orange in color. It is often used in curries and stews. Fresh turmeric has a very fruity flavor. Be careful when handling fresh turmeric as the juice stains. Turmeric is available in Asian grocery stores and keeps well frozen. Dried turmeric, often sold ground into powder, can be substituted.

Vietnamese mint (laksa leaves) is known as chi pong tia kon in Cambodia and rou ram in Vietnam. It is sometimes also called Vietnamese coriander, hot mint or Cambodian mint, though it is not a member of the mint family. Its botancial name is polygonum odoratum. The narrow pointed leaves of this herb are green with light brown markings and its scent is very distinct—both acrid and peppery. In Cambodia this herb is mostly used in soups and salads. Thanks to its major role in Vietnamese cuisine, it can be found in most every Asian grocery store. It keeps quite well stored in the refrigerator. Equal parts fresh mint and coriander (cilantro) can be substituted.

Water lily stems, known as prolet in Cambodia, are white stems with a pinkish hue, and with channels running down them. They are used widely in Cambodian soups. Before using them, remove the fine white film on the outside of the stem, as one does for the midribs of chard. Unfortunately water lily stems are not available in all Asian grocery stores, but celery makes a suitable substitute.

Water spinach, known as trokun in Cambodia and as rau muông in Vietnam, is one of the basic ingredients in Cambodian cooking. It is a water plant with hollow stems and arrow-shaped leaves. The leaves are eaten raw in salad, and the stems can be chopped and stir-fried or used in soups. Water spinach is available in Asian grocery stores, but if necessary, watercress or bok choy can be substituted.

Winter melon is a member of the squash family. It is also called ash gourd, ash pumpkin or winter gourd. The white flesh has a mild flavor and is delicious in stir-fries and soup. Winter melon is available year-round in Chinese markets and specialty produce stores. Substitute with peeled and deseeded zucchini.