Читать книгу Excursions in North Wales - John Hicklin - Страница 12

Table of Contents

Bangor	27
Chester	35
Conway	12
London	225
Rhuddlan	5
Rhyl	7
St. Asaph	8

Abergele, [8] a market town, is pleasantly situated on the great Chester and Holyhead road, on the edge of Rhuddlan marsh, and about a mile from the sea shore. The church is ancient, with a plain uninteresting tower, which the white-washing hand of modern “improvement” has deprived of all pretensions to the picturesque. The town consists only of one long street; and in 1841, its population, with the parish, was returned at 2661.

The coast is composed of firm hard sands, affording delightful drives for many miles. Tradition says, the sea has in old time overflowed a vast tract of inhabited country, once extending at least three miles northward; as an evidence of which, a dateless epitaph, in Welsh, on the church-yard wall, is cited, which is thus translated: “In this church yard lies a man who lived three miles to the north of it.” There is, however, much stronger proof in the fact, that at low water may be seen, at a distance from the clayey bank, a long tract of hard loam, in which are imbedded numerous bodies of oak trees, tolerably entire, but so soft as to cut with a knife as easily as wax: the wood is collected by the poorer people, and, after being brought to dry upon the beach, is used as fuel.

The salubrity of the air, the pleasantness of situation, and the superiority of its shore for sea-bathing, have rendered this town a favourite resort for genteel company, and it has long been a fashionable watering place. The environs are picturesque, the scenery beautiful, and many interesting excursions may be made from this locality. The Bee Hotel, one of the best in the kingdom, is a most comfortable house, and possesses superior accommodations; and there are some excellent private lodgings to be had in the town: for those who would prefer a more immediate contiguity to the sea, there are cottages close to the beach, fit for respectable families, and apartments may be had from farmers, who are in the habit of accommodating visitors for the summer season. Bateman Jones, Esq. has a handsome residence on the road between the town and the beach. Besides the Chester and Holyhead and other mails that pass through Abergele, there is an omnibus which runs daily to Voryd, to meet the Liverpool and Rhyl steam-packet.

The pretty villages of Bettws and Llanfair are in this immediate neighbourhood: near the former is Coed Coch, the residence of J. Ll. Wynn, Esq. Llanfair is most picturesquely situated on the Elwy, a little way above its conflux with the Aled. Close to the village is Garthewin, the sylvan residence of Brownlow W. Wynne, Esq. embowered in trees; and following up the Elwy and its narrow but beautiful valley, is the village of Llangerniew; near to it is Llyn Elwy, the pool from which issues and gives name to the river Elwy. Havod-unos, about a quarter of a mile from the village, is the seat of S. Sandbach, Esq. an eminent Liverpool merchant, who some time ago purchased it and the estate, once the property of a long list of ap Llwyds. Two or three miles to the south-east, lies the village of Llansannan, at the head of the pretty vale of Aled. Close below the village is the elegant modern mansion of the Yorkes, called Dyffryn Aled: it is built of Bath free stone, and presents a very beautiful and classical structure. These are places a little out of the common track of tourists, but they will not be disappointed at visiting them; and from Abergele is the most convenient start to them. The roads are good; the country very beautiful; trout fishing is excellent in the Elwy and Aled from their sources, the Aled and Elwy pools, to Rhuddlan; and the villages afford very good passing-by accommodations.

On the hills above Abergele, grow some of the more uncommon plants; geranium sanguineum, rubia peregrina, halloboris fœtidus. In the shady wood, paris quadrifolia, and ophrys nidus avis; and on the beach, glaucium luteum, and eryngium maritimum abundantly. The hills are interesting to the geologist as well as to the botanist; and command remarkably grand and extensive views of the ocean, and of the adjacent mountain scenery.

About a mile from Abergele, on the left of the road towards Conway, stands Gwrych Castle, a modern castellated mansion, the property and residence of Henry Lloyd Bamford Hesketh, Esq. The situation is admirably chosen for a magnificent sea view, which, owing to the constant passing of vessels for the ports of Liverpool and Chester, is extremely beautiful and animated. Very near to this singular but ambitious looking structure, is a huge calcareous rock, called Cefn-yr-Ogo (or the Back of the Cavern), an inexhaustible mine of limestone, where a multitude of labourers are constantly employed in blasting the rock, and breaking the masses, which are exported to Liverpool and other places. But what chiefly renders it curious is the circumstance of a number of natural caverns penetrating its side in different places; one of which, called Ogo (or the Cavern), is well worth a visit. It is celebrated in history as having once afforded a place of retreat to a British army. Its mouth resembles the huge arched entrance of a Gothic cathedral. A few feet within this, and immediately in the centre of it, a rock rising from the floor to the lofty roof, not unlike a massive pillar rudely sculptured, divides the cavern into two apartments. The hollow to the left soon terminates; but that to the right spreads into a large chamber, 30 feet in height, and stretching to a greater depth than human curiosity has ever been hardy enough to explore. Making a short turn a few yards from the entrance, and sweeping into the interior of the mountain, the form and dimension of the abyss are concealed in impenetrable darkness, and its windings can only be followed about forty yards with prudence, when the light totally disappears, and the flooring becomes both dirty and unsafe. Stalactites of various fanciful forms decorate the fretted roof and sides of this extraordinary cavern. [10]

From Cave Hill (Cefn-yr-Ogo), is an extensive and varied prospect. The city of St. Asaph, the Vale of Clwyd, the mountains of Flintshire, and in clear weather, a portion of Cheshire and Lancashire, with the town of Liverpool, are distinctly seen to the eastward; and to the north is visible the Isle of Man; to the west, the Island of Anglesea; and to the south-west, the mountains of Caernarvonshire. Just below is the small village of