Читать книгу Excursions in North Wales - John Hicklin - Страница 15

Table of Contents

Aberdovey	11
Devil’s Bridge	12
Llanidloes	30
London, by Ross	217
Machynlleth	18

[It may be necessary to apprise the reader, that though this work is professedly a description of North Wales only, it has been thought advisable to deviate from the letter of its title, so far as to include within its pages the above distinguished town, and that great and attractive curiosity, the Devil’s Bridge; both of which, situated in Cardiganshire, the North Wales tourist usually visits, the town being only 18 miles beyond Machynlleth, and the cataract the same distance from Llanidloes.]

Aberystwyth has long been esteemed a fashionable watering place; the gently sloping beach, the clearness of the water, and the salubriousness of the air, have all conspired to render it an inviting spot for sea-bathing; and within the last few years, the efforts of art have been sedulously employed in seconding the works of nature, by furnishing to its visitants excellent roads, superior accommodations, and suitable buildings for fashionable amusements. Pleasant walks have also been formed in the environs. The town, which owes its origin to the erection of the castle, is described by Leland as having been encompassed by walls, (the last remains of which were removed some years since,) and as being in his time a better market than Cardigan; and Camden, who ascribes the building of its walls to Gilbert de Clare, earl of Strongbow, states, that it was then the most populous town in the county. Since that time it has materially increased, both in extent and importance, and may be still regarded as the most flourishing place in this part of South Wales, its population in 1841 being returned at 4916. It is pleasantly situated at the lower extremity of the valley of Rheidiol, amid lofty hills, and on a bold eminence overlooking the bay of Cardigan, by which it is bounded on one side, while on the other it is environed by the Rheidiol, over which is a stone bridge of five arches, forming an entrance to it from the south.

The houses are in general well built, and of respectable appearance, several of them being large and handsome, especially such as are of modern erection, which are entirely of stone. The streets are disposed with considerable regularity, and well paved and macadamised. The inhabitants are supplied with water from the river Rheidiol, which is brought into the town on carriages in the form of small carts, drawn by one horse, each holding two barrels, and sold at a low rate. About the commencement of the last century, it began to rise into notice as a bathing-place, and from a series of progressive improvements, is now one of the most frequented places of fashionable resort on this part of the coast.

The beach affords a pleasant and interesting walk; and the shore, consisting of lofty and precipitous rocks of dark-coloured slate, is worn by the action of the waves into caverns of romantic and picturesque appearance. The beach is composed of fine pebbles, among which are found many valuable stones; the water in consequence is always peculiarly clear, and uncontaminated with any admixtures. In sandy situations, the contrary is frequently the case. The fine stones are picked up with great avidity by the numerous visitors residing here in the summer months, and afford ample employment to several lapidaries in the town. Hot sea-water, vapour, and medicated baths are provided with every requisite accommodation; several bathing machines are in attendance, and from the convenient sloping of the beach, a facility of bathing is afforded at almost any state of the tide, within a very short distance of the shore. For the reception of the increasing number of visitors, many additional lodging-houses have been built, of which the Marine Terrace, a handsome range of modern buildings suitable for private families, is situated on the margin of the bay, commanding a fine marine view. The Belle Vue is a spacious and commodious hotel; in front of which is a fine promenade. On the south-west of the Marine Terrace, is a gateway leading to a spacious castellated mansion, called the Castle-house, commanding an extensive view across the bay: it was originally built as a private mansion by the late Sir Uvedale Price, Bart. of Foxley hall, Herefordshire, and consists of three octagonal towers, connected by ranges of apartments, and having a light and elegant balcony on the side towards the sea. Beyond this, on one side is the Castle Hill, crowned with the venerable ruins of an ancient fortress, and forming another favourite promenade, affording from different points various extensive, romantic, and interesting views of the sea, the neighbouring hills, and the surrounding country.

On the other side of the Castle Hill, separated only by the churchyard, are the new public rooms, handsomely built in the Grecian style of architecture, on ground given by W. E. Powell, Esq., of Nant Eös, from a design by Mr. Repton, at an expense of £2000, raised by subscription in shares of £10 each, and opened to the public in 1820. The suite consists of a very handsome assembly and promenade room, a card-room and a billiard-room. There is a good library in the new market-place; a new theatre has been built on the north parade, and was opened for the first time in the summer of 1833. The church, dedicated to St. Michael, was built by subscription in the year 1787: it is a plain structure, situated within the precincts of the castle, and separated from the walks along the ruins of that edifice by a stone wall erected at the expense of the inhabitants. A gallery was erected in the church at its western end in the year 1790, at an expense of £104 14s., which was defrayed by Mrs. Margaret Pryce. The service is performed in the morning and evening in the English language, and in the afternoon in Welsh; there is likewise service on the evenings of Wednesday in the English, and on the Thursday in the Welsh language.

The augmented population of this place, and the increasing number of visitors during the season, having rendered the erection of another place of worship necessary, a church or chapel has been recently built upon a large scale by subscription, after a plan by Mr. Haycock, of Shrewsbury, in the modern Gothic style, at an expense of £3600, including a grant of £1000 from the parliamentary commissioners, and £400 from the society for the enlargement of churches and chapels: it was consecrated in September, 1833. The parish church is situated at Llanbadarn, at about a mile distant from the town. There is a peculiarity regarding the grave-stones at this place: they are generally fixed in a stack of bricks built up for the purpose, and white-washed, the tablet appearing in front. The surface of the grave is usually paved with a kind of small marble stones, which are found in abundance on the beach. There are also several places of worship for dissenters. Aberystwyth likewise possesses the advantage of a chalybeate spring, situate at a very short distance east of the town. This spring was discovered by a kind of accident in 1779. It is highly spoken of, as containing valuable medicinal properties, and much resembling the Tunbridge waters; but it is always advisable that a physician should be consulted as to the season and extent of its use. To complete the circle of attractions which this interesting place presents, the annual races are here rising into repute; these usually take place in August, in a field near Gogerddan, about three miles from the town. Archery and cricket clubs have also been established, and are upheld with great spirit; and here the lovers of angling may be gratified with their favourite diversion. The Ystwyth and the Rheidiol are in the immediate vicinity; the autumnal fishing for salmon and sewin is excellent; and within a day’s excursion, a variety of lake-fishing will afford capital sport.

Aberystwyth contains many interesting relics of antiquity, and was evidently in the “olden time,” a place of some renown, as well as a scene of some of the unhappy troubles which darkened the reign of Charles the First.

In queen Elizabeth’s reign a company of Germans reaped a large fortune in working the silver mines in the vicinity of this town. Sir Hugh Myddleton, after them, was equally successful, and accumulated £2000 a month out of one silver mine at Bwlch yr Eskir, which enabled him (in 1614) to bring the new river to London. He, again, was succeeded by Mr. Bushell, a servant of Sir Francis Bacon, who also gained such immense profits, that he made Charles the First a present of a regiment of horse, and clothed his whole army; he also furnished the king with a loan of £40,000, which was considered as a gift to supply his necessities; and when that unfortunate monarch was pressed, his devoted subject raised a regiment among his miners at his own charge.

On Pen Dinas, a very high and steep hill, near the bridge over the Rheidiol, is a large entrenchment, still in a good state of preservation, and where, Caradoc informs us, Rhŷs ap Gruffydd, in 1113, encamped his forces, which, by a manœuvre of the English, were enticed from the hill over the bridge, to besiege Aberystwyth castle, where they were surrounded and cut off almost to a man. The tradition of the town attributes this entrenchment to the forces employed by Cromwell to besiege the castle. Opposite this, on a hill at the extremity of the town, are two other entrenchments, in a bad state of preservation and destitute of the tumuli or barrows, often found contiguous to such vestiges in Wales.

Aberystwyth is a place of considerable trade; but the harbour, being a bar harbour, is of uncertain and often dangerous navigation, and frequently choked up, until the land freshes come down, after heavy falls of rain, and force a passage. The trustees, acting under the harbour act passed in 1780, being empowered to raise the sum of £4000 for its improvement, upon mortgage of the dues, and seeing the necessity of doing something more effectually than the works they were occasionally enabled to erect by the expenditure of the annual revenues, which were constantly being swept away by the sea, determined upon employing that eminent engineer and hydrographer, the late Mr. Nimmo, to survey the harbour, and to give his report thereon. The report having been published, by which it appeared that a sum of £10,000 was necessary to carry his suggestions into effect; a committee was formed, who issued a prospectus, soliciting subscriptions from those disposed to aid them in the accomplishment of so desirable an object, and the following munificent donations were immediately made: the Duke of Newcastle, £1000; the Earl of Lisburne, £500; Colonel Powell, M.P. £500; Pryce Pryce, Esq. M.P. £500. The works have since been completed.