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The use of hops in beer was written about in 822 by a Carolingian abbot and again in 1067 by Abbess Hildegard of Bingen, who wrote: ‘If one intends to make beer from oats, it is prepared with hops.’ The custom of flavouring beer with hops was known since the 9th century at least, but was only gradually adopted because of difficulties in establishing the right proportions of ingredients. Before that, a mix of various herbs known as ‘gruit’ had been used, but they did not boast the same conserving properties as hops. Beer flavoured without hops was often spoiled soon after preparation and could not travel very far. The only other alternative way to produce beer that would keep was to increase the alcohol content, but this was expensive.

By the 13th century, hopped beer was perfected in Germany and this longer-lasting beer, combined with standardized barrel sizes, allowed for large-scale export. The Germans also pioneered a new scale of operation and an increased level of professionalism. Previously, beer had been brewed at home, but the production was now successfully replaced by medium-sized operations of about eight to 10 people. This type of production spread to Holland in the 14th century and later to Flanders, Brabant, and finally reached England by the late 15th century.