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INTRODUCTION

In volume one we asked the question ‘Are the Dolomites the most beautiful mountains in the world?’ Well, 13 years later, we still think so. With explosive shapes and unique colours the Dolomites can be regarded as the crown jewels of the European alpine range. Via ferrata climbing is a way of enjoying the sheer magnificence of this awesome mountain environment, where you will be stopped in your tracks by amazing views and mountain situations.

Many via ferratas were originally built to aid the movements of alpine military units during the First World War, and now they represent one of the major attractions in the Dolomites. They are, in effect, a range of protected routes, with fixed cables, ladders and even gorge-spanning bridges, which aid ascent to places normally reserved for expert rock climbers.

In recent years, old wartime routes have been restored and many new routes added to give a network of routes around the whole Dolomite region. Some of the new ferratas are ‘sport routes’, often technically quite hard, as you will see from our assessment of the grades.

Routes are regularly checked, maintained and waymarked by the Italian Alpine Club, the CAI (Club Alpino Italiano). You will also see reference to SAT (Societa degli Alpinisti Tridentini), which is the CAI’s largest section, with more than 20,000 members in 76 sections. SAT has 39 refuges and 12 bivouacs, and maintains over 6000km of paths, including via ferratas, and thus plays a major role in maintaining the Dolomite environment.

How to use this Guide

This guide departs from the usual convention of listing routes by reference to the geological group in which they lie. Instead routes are grouped according to the best point of access to help you decide where to set up base. This has inevitably involved a few fairly arbitrary judgements, and many of the valley bases are sufficiently close together to enable you to tackle several different groups from a single location. Information is also included on the availability of cable cars and jeep taxis, which can make getting to the start of the route considerably easier and conserve your energies for the climb.

The availability of maps is covered in ‘Map Availability and Place Names’ below. Most via ferratas are indicated on the maps in popular use, although errors in location and naming are not unknown. You should also note that as the Dolomite mountains are characterised by such swooping, vertical faces, maps can only give a fairly diagrammatic impression of topography. This means that it is not always easy to visualise the vertical dimension of a route, especially the gradient to be encountered, nor is it easy to visualise the exposure involved until confronted by it! Even some of the technically easier via ferratas will take you into some extremely exposed situations, as indicated in the route descriptions; this has been taken into account in the assessment of grades.

The lovely town of Arco is dominated by its castle

The route location diagrams for this guide are just that – diagrammatic. Their purpose is simply to help the reader locate the route on the appropriate map. Note that their scale varies, depending on whether it is more helpful to place the route in its wider context or to give more detail. The diagrams are not a substitute for a properly detailed map for use on the hill.

The times given in the guide assume a reasonable level of fitness on the part of the climber and, just as important, no undue congestion on the route. However, these timings are for guidance only, so whilst a fit and experienced via ferratist will frequently complete a route more quickly than the guide time, it is possible that the busier and more accessible routes will require twice as long as the guide time.

The expression ‘via ferrata’ tends to be used as a generic term relating to any protected route. However, there is other nomenclature used locally which you will come across. ‘Sentiero’, ‘sentiero attrezzato’, ‘sentiero alpinistico’, ‘percoso attrezzato’ and ‘cengia’ (Italian for ‘ledge’) are some of the other terms in common use. To avoid confusion, this guidebook has adopted the terms used locally. You will, incidentally, often find that routes called ‘sentieros’ are easier than those referred to as via ferrata routes. Whilst some sentieros are fully equipped with cables, ladders and stemples, many are little more than extended traverses of mountainous areas, involving less challenging terrain. Here, the need for protective cables is limited to the more exposed passages encountered. Nonetheless, you should note that even though some of the easier sentieros have limited hands-on climbing, they often have considerable exposure! (Note: while the plural of ‘via ferrata’ is, of couse, ‘vie ferrate’, this guide uses the anglicised form, ‘via ferratas’.)

Route Groupings

Several foreign-language guidebooks exist to via ferrata climbing, using slightly different approaches to grouping routes, although most are based on geological groups. This book, however, organises routes around the most convenient valley bases in which to stay, or from which to approach the routes (although routes are cross-referred to mountain groups in Appendix 3). As with all systems this leads to some anomalies or overlaps. It is important to stress, however, that this is a guidebook: given a map, some local knowledge and, most importantly, some time to spend enjoying the Dolomites, you will work out your own itineraries for your via ferrata days. We hope you have as much fun in the Dolomites as we have, and are sure you will enjoy poring over your maps and working things out for yourselves! For a detailed description of the grading system used in the guide, see the ‘Safety’ section.

When to Go

There is no ideal time to go to the Dolomites, as there are a number of factors to consider; although, as with any mountain area, good luck with the weather is critical.

A number of the routes in this volume are at lower altitudes, especially those around Lake Garda. Consequently many of these routes are climbable at almost any time of the year. They are also easily accessible from several airports to the south (e.g. Venice, Verona, Brescia), making ferrata climbing a short-break (even long weekend) option. Such routes are, however, perhaps best avoided in the heat and crowds of high summer.

Climbers on VF degli Alleghesi, Monte Civetta (AGORD 1 and 2)

The season for via ferrata climbing in the higher mountains is, of course, greatly dependent on the extent of snow fall in the previous winter and the timing of the first snows of autumn. Generally speaking, mid- to late June until the end of September is the period you should consider for your trip. Lower south-facing routes will be in condition for the longest period. Like all mountain areas, though, the weather can be unpredictable, and snow is not unknown even in August.

Rif. Torre di Pisa (see BOLZ 1)

August is an extremely busy month, when all Italians head for the beach or the mountains. On the plus side, all the summer lift services operate in August, as do the bus services. The downside is that the popular via ferratas will be very busy, and the cost of accommodation will be at its highest. Mountain rifugios are also busy, so a phone call to book beds in advance is advisable in high summer.

Travel to the Dolomites

The quickest way to get to Italy is to fly, with Venice, Treviso, Bolzano, Verona, Brescia, Munich and Innsbruck all providing speedy access to the region. Budget operators currently fly into Venice, Treviso and Brescia. Bus services run from all airports into the Dolomites, but frequency is often poor, even non-existent on Sundays (see below, ‘Local Transport’).

While cars can be hired at any airport, rates are cheaper in Germany, so the extra drive from Munich may be worthwhile if time allows. Although not essential for many of the popular via ferratas, a car is certainly very useful in getting around: dependence on public transport takes a sizeable chunk out of your climbing time. The European motorway network is now so good that it is possible to drive from the channel ports into the Dolomites in one long day, although most would choose to break their journey.

The French and Italian motorways are tolled, while use of Austrian motorways requires a ‘vignette’ sticker (valid for 10 days, 2 months or 1 year), which can be bought at border filling stations/shops or at tabacs if entering Austria by non-motorway routes (see www.vignette.at/oe for current prices). The main road into Italy, the Brenner pass, involves an additional fee and can be chaotic in high season. Both the fee and the crowds can be avoided by using the old SS12 road, but that is windy and slow, as is the final part of the journey on the mountain roads of the Dolomites.

Fast and reliable inter-city trains can be used to travel across Europe. However, as with flying, connecting travel into the mountains needs to be organised, which can eat into holiday schedules.

Accommodation

There is a wide range of options, from the basic, such as camping or mountain rifugios, to the height of luxury. Amongst the most popular choices are self-catering apartments and meubles. The latter are (usually smaller) hotels that do not provide evening meals, but which are good value for money if you are content with a modest meal in a nearby pizzeria. All major towns, and even most small villages, have tourist information offices which will help you find accommodation, although you will usually have to make your booking direct with the place you want to stay.

There is an extremely good network of rifugios throughout the Dolomites – some owned by the CAI and some privately owned. Most are well appointed and provide comfortable accommodation at reasonable prices, together with substantial meals of good quality. Sleeping arrangements usually involve dormitories, and whilst blankets are generally provided a sheet sleeping bag is required (although these can be hired at many of the larger rifugios). Washing facilities are provided, but these can be quite basic and hot water should not be expected. Information about opening times can be obtained from local tourist offices or from the CAI’s website, much of which is now translated into English (see www.cai.it). Bivouac huts are common in the more remote mountain areas, although these are little more than emergency shelters, with facilities limited to a few bunks and blankets. Use is on an honesty basis, but anyone planning an overnight stay should carry all their needs, including food and water.

Italy has an excellent, albeit complicated, network of tourist information offices. The Italian State Tourist Board (ENIT) has offices in many capital cities, including London. The information they provide is often very attractive, but so general as to be of little practical help in planning your trip. It is better to contact the local tourist offices in the area you plan to visit. Under the umbrella of ENIT, a hierarchy of tourist offices is maintained at regional level, provincial level, and in most towns and villages in holiday areas. These offices are known either as APT (Azienda di Promozione Turistica) or EPT (Ente Provinciale Turismo). Towns or villages not included in the ENIT network often maintain their own information offices, known as Assessorato al Turismo. Just to confuse even further, you will also see ‘Ufficio Turistico’ signs, which may be the APT office anyway! An approach to any of these offices generally elicits a wealth of detailed material about matters such as accommodation, public transport and lifts in the area. Whilst most of the staff in the larger offices speak good English, this is not necessarily the case with some of the smaller offices. So if you make your enquiries by phone, prepare yourself with a few Italian phrases.

Percorso Sass Brusai offers a good view of the normal descent path (BASAN 2)

The following addresses and websites might prove useful.

 ENIT London office: Italian State Tourist Board, 1 Princess Street, London W1R 9AY, Tel. 0207 3551557/73551439 or website: www.enit.it

 Italian Tourist Web Guide: www.itwg.com.

These sites contain a huge amount of practical information, including links to local tourist offices, although not all the pages on the ENIT site are in English.

Local Transport

Public transport in Italy is generally good and cheap, and many of the routes described in this book can be accessed by bus. There are a number of major operators, with well-integrated timetables, serving the area, including Atesina, Dolomitibus and SAD. Check their timetables (see website addresses in Appendix 5) even if you have a car, as some routes involve extensive mountain traverses, which will deposit you some miles from where you started! Note, however, that the services of all bus operators are reduced considerably on the middle weekend of September.

View north from eastern side of Passo Groste, the start of Sentiero Vidi and Sentiero Palete (BREN 10 and 12)

The Dolomites are well served by cable cars, which are often surprisingly cheap. Whilst a good many lifts are winter-only operations, those in the more popular areas operate throughout the summer months. As with bus services, the cable-car operators run reduced operations at the beginning and end of the summer, although this varies depending on the individual operating companies and unpredictable factors like the weather. As a general rule, however, most services operate from July through August, and remain in place into the beginning of September, with more popular routes continuing into October in some cases. Local tourist offices can usually advise on timetables, and it is wise to check the services in advance to enable you to plan your climbing timetable accordingly. Bus and cable-car timetables are referred to throughout this guide, since changes from one season to another have been very limited in recent years. It is, however, wise to check locally before finalising your itinerary for the day.

Telephones

Northern Italy has an excellent mobile phone network and, with near universal ownership of mobile phones, telephoning within, or from, Italy presents no difficulties. However, note that, both for calls to and within Italy, you need to dial the full area code, including the leading zero. Italy’s international access code is 0039.

Phone boxes in Italy generally use phone cards rather than cash. Full instructions are often found in English (although they don’t tell you that you need to break off the corner of your phone card before use, otherwise they don’t work!). Phone cards are available from newsagents, tabacs, bars or vending machines close to phone boxes.

Useful emergency numbers are:

• Carabinieri/rescue	112
• Police	113
• Fire service	115
• Road rescue	116
• Mountain rescue/Ambulance	118

Map Availability and Place Names

Visitors to the Dolomites are generally well served by mapmakers, although the situation is not quite so good in the more southerly areas covered by this volume. For general orientation and travelling around the region, it is hard to beat the road maps produced by the Italian Touring Club (TCI) at a scale of 1:200,000, although the AA Road Atlas at 1:250,000 is another good choice. However, travellers are increasingly relying on electronic mapping systems, and it is pleasing to note that the coverage of northern Italy is excellent, with Google Maps and the main SatNav systems featuring accurate, street-level mapping.

There is a growing range of the more detailed maps needed in the mountains, with several manufacturers producing maps at both 1:50,000 and 1:25,000. While the smaller scale is perhaps suitable for gaining an overview of an area, the complex terrain of the Dolomites makes the larger scale essential in the mountains.

The best coverage of large scale maps is by Tabacco and Kompass, although neither cover some of the more southerly areas covered by this guide. Each has its adherents (we favour Tabacco), but there is little to choose between them in terms of quality. Both are easy to read and fairly accurate, although neither can match Ordnance Survey maps for detail and accuracy. Both manufacturers are now including geographic coordinates, but see individual maps for Datum settings to use with your GPS unit. There are, however, other manufacturers you might wish to consider. Lagir Alpina and the Austrian Alpine Club’s Alpenvereinskart series both cover parts of the area covered by this guidebook. Users of GPS units can buy good quality electronic maps from suppliers such as Garmin, but free downloads are also available. See: www.freizeitkarte-osm.de/en/more-countries.html.

Steep cables on Via Ferrata Giulio Segata (TRENT 7)

Also available locally (particularly in the Trentino area and the more southerly areas such as Bassano and Vicenza), are maps with strange scales such as 1:10,000, 1:20,000, 1:28,000, 1:30,000, 1:40,000, which will test your map reading skills! Usually produced by local tourist organisations (occasionally in liaison with SAT) these are sometimes available free from the local tourist office. Some are produced to a high standard and with good detail, while others are little more than ‘topos’ of limited value.

The availability of maps in most of the areas covered by this volume is good, as most newsagents and gift shops, and many supermarkets, stock local maps, even in fairly small settlements. You may, however, have problems in Bassano and Vicenza, which are not geared up for mountain tourism, so the route descriptions identify specific problem areas and indicate the maps we have used during our research.

You will doubtless want to consider the alternatives, and get hold of your chosen maps while planning your trip. In Appendix 5, we have provided website details of the main manufacturers to aid research, together with details of the main UK-based map suppliers.

Magnetic variation: since magnetic variation in this part of Europe is limited (around 1 degree west) it is not generally referred to on maps. Nonetheless, whilst you might be accustomed to using your compass in featureless terrain in the UK, it is something you will rarely need to do in the Dolomites. Even if you do carry your compass, you are more likely to navigate by finding a path and following its red markers.

Finally, a word of warning about the use of place names on maps. In those areas which were historically Austrian, many settlements and natural features such as mountains have both an Italian and a German name. Both appear on maps and – depending on where you are and to whom you are speaking – Torri di Latemar might well be referred to as Latemarturme. This guide gives both the Italian and German names on first usage, but thereafter reverts to the Italian name only. You will also come across variations in the spelling of place names both on maps produced by different publishers and in different editions from the same publisher. This can be confusing, but it also means that whichever forms are used in this guide can easily be justified!

Weather

As in all mountain areas, the weather in the Dolomites can be unpredictable, although a common pattern is a clear start, followed in the afternoon by increasing cloud and possibly a thunderstorm. Daily forecasts for the Dolomites are produced from the weather centre in Arabba (website: www.arpa.veneto.it/csvdi, with a web cam at www.svm.it/webarpav). A localised Trentino forecast is available on www.meteotrentino.it). These daily forecasts generally give a reliable indication of what to expect, even over a two-or three-day period, and are available from tourist offices and the local mountain guides offices. You will also find ‘weather stations’ outside shops and hotels in all mountain areas, with the barometer being a particularly useful guide to the weather patterns to expect.

Grand scenery characterises the walk from Rif. Rosetta to Passo di Ball (S.MAR 3 and 4) (photo: Meg Fletcher)

It is essential to keep an eye on the forecasts. High-level mountain routes require a spell of settled weather, although for less serious routes an early start can pay dividends if bad weather threatens later in the day. Conversely, if the day starts badly, there are some shorter, more easily accessed routes that can be completed in the afternoon.

Although wet rock is not ideal, via ferratas, especially easier ones, can be climbed in the rain, but beware if temperatures are low, as icing can occur throughout the summer and turn even the easiest route into a very serious undertaking.

Thunder and lightning is a totally different matter. Being attached to a metal cable in a high, exposed mountain situation is not where you want to be! So if storms threaten, avoid climbs which lack escape routes. If you are caught in a storm and are unable to escape from a route, there are some simple rules which should be followed to minimise the risk of being ‘buzzed’.

 If a storm is approaching (warning signs include a build up of towering cumulo-nimbus cloud or the sound of distant thunder) evaluate possible escape routes as soon as possible.

 If possible, unclip from the cable and move a safe distance away. If an escape route is available, then use it. If you have no option but to sit it out, a wide ledge might provide an adequate safety zone on a cliff face. If on a ridge, however, try to get off it as soon as possible.

 In a storm, stay out in the open if this is possible – do not seek shelter under boulders or overhangs or go into caves, as these can be the natural spark points as lightning tries to find its way to earth.

 Keep as low as possible: sitting on your rucksack minimises both your profile and your contact with wet ground.

 Keep your core as dry as possible by putting on your waterproofs without delay.

This may all sound rather frightening; indeed it can be! However, remember that lightning strikes natural projections, such as mountain tops or rock pinnacles, so if you are unlucky enough to be caught in a storm, stay calm, make sound judgements, follow the good practice listed above, and the risks will be very small.

Route Grading

Grading is a subjective matter, not an exact science. The authors’ starting point is the belief that any grading system should offer a view of the seriousness of a route as well as its difficulty. A route can be hard without being too serious, and vice versa.

Spectacular descent on Sentiero SOSAT (BREN 2)

Many people have experienced situations in which their confidence has proved to be misplaced, and have had to back off a route and leave it for another day. On a route which is not only hard but also serious, things might not be quite so straightforward! Big routes on big mountains should be accorded a degree of respect, and factors like escape routes and even rescue access need to be considered. Bad weather and stone falls can also result in a carefree day on the hill turning into an epic.

Standard SAT and CAI safety notices

The Dolomites abound with via ferratas which are technically easy, but in terrain which needs to be taken seriously. Consequently, it is important that the relatively inexperienced scrambler appreciates the degree of mountain commitment involved in the route he or she is planning to climb.

Each route in this guidebook is therefore graded on a five-point scale of technical difficulty, with 1 the easiest and 5 the hardest grade. Some of the ferratas in this volume are ‘sport routes’ which, like recently constructed routes in Provence and Austria, tend to be at the top end of the scale of difficulty.

The assessment of seriousness takes into account the mountain commitment involved, accessibility, potential escape routes, the level of fitness required and potential objective dangers. Our three-point scale of seriousness is shown as A, B or C, where A is the least serious and C the most committing.

Technical difficulty

1 Easy routes, with limited via ferrata climbing, entirely suitable for the young and inexperienced. Requires no more than a head for heights and sure-footedness.

2 Straightforward routes for the experienced mountain walker or scrambler with a head for heights.

3 Rather more difficult routes, not recommended for the completely novice via ferratist. At this level complete freedom from vertigo and sure-footedness are required, as is complete competence in the use of self-belay equipment.

4 Demanding routes, frequently involving steep rock faces and requiring a fairly high standard of technical climbing ability. Definitely not for the novice or those unsure of their confidence in mountain situations.

5 Routes of the highest technical standard encountered in via ferrata climbing, suitable only for the most experienced via ferratist.

The steep start of Via Attrezzata Rino Pisetta (RIVA 1)

Seriousness

1 Straightforward outings in unthreatening mountain terrain. Routes will have easy access and/ or escape opportunities, will be virtually risk free in the event of a change in the weather, and be relatively free from the risk of stone-fall.

2 Routes where a degree of mountain experience is required. Access might be more difficult, and opportunities to escape from the route will be limited, so minor mishaps could develop into quite serious situations. A change in the weather could potentially be more than merely inconvenient, and the climber needs to be aware of the risk of stone-fall.

3 Routes for only the experienced mountaineer. Such routes might lack any escape opportunities, be in remote areas, have passages of very exposed, unprotected terrain, or involve inaccessible situations where any mishap could have the most serious consequences. The threat of stone-fall might be a major consideration, or a change in the weather could add greatly to the problems posed by the route.

Route vital statistics

For each route an indication of the ascent, descent and length of via ferrata involved is given. Where a route involves extended traverses this can appear to give rather odd statistics where the length of the ferrata exceeds the ascent/descent figure (e.g. VICEN 2 Sentiero Alpinistico Angelo Pojesi).

Conditions in the mountains

The route descriptions and gradings in the guide assume, as they must, that conditions are good, that ice is not a problem and, in the case of some lower-level routes, that watercourses are not in spate. However, even in mid-summer the weather can be extremely variable. Sudden thunderstorms, snowfall, ice formation or flash flooding of watercourses can all occur unexpectedly in a Dolomite summer. So, when considering the given grading assessments, you should make appropriate allowances for additional difficulties resulting from adverse conditions.

Equipment

The basic equipment required to climb via ferratas safely is neither complicated nor expensive. The items below will suffice for all but the most demanding outings, but for the higher routes (and even lower ones early in the season) consideration needs to be given to additional gear such as ice axes and crampons.

Although some UK-based climbing shops do now stock (or can order) via ferrata equipment, it can be bought readily in the Dolomites. As well as being cheaper in Italy, a wider variety of equipment is also available.

Helmet: perhaps the single most important piece of equipment. This must conform to UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) standard to protect the climber against rock-fall. However, to be effective it should be on your head, not in your sack, so be sure to put it on as soon as the risk of stone-fall is present. For example, the approaches to some routes negotiate gullies which can be raked by stones falling from above, so don’t wait until you are about to start climbing before reaching for your helmet.

Harness: a full body harness will give you the best safety protection for climbing via ferratas. Many British visitors to the Dolomites will already own a climbing sit-harness; but, whilst this will generally suffice for tackling via ferratas, do remember that you will probably be carrying a loaded rucksack, so if you were to take a fall you run the risk of being turned upside down. Consequently, you can either invest in a full body harness, much more popular (and available) in continental Europe than in the UK, or supplement your sit harness with a chest harness. Whatever you choose to do, it is a totally personal decision and risk assessment.

Via ferrata self-belay set: incorporating belay rope, KISA (see below), and karabiners. Like all climbing equipment, via ferrata self-belay equipment has been greatly improved in recent years with new systems appearing all the time. The obvious problem with self-belaying on a vertical run of cable is that any fall will only be arrested when the climber reaches the attaching peg below him (with a long cable run, this can mean a very high fall factor and an enormous shock loading on the system). To help overcome this, a device called a Kinetic Impact Shock Absorber, or KISA, is used. There are several different models in use, but they all function in the same way, acting as simple friction brakes which, in the event of a fall, absorb the energy generated, thus reducing the shock loading.

Two different types of KISA

The two most commonly used systems (V type and Y type) which incorporate a KISA in the belay system each contain the same components, albeit configured differently, which means that they must be used differently.

a) The older, V type employs a single rope, about 2 metres long, which passes through the KISA, and with a karabiner on each end. The KISA is then attached to the harness with rope or tape. With this system, only one karabiner should be clipped into the cable, so that in the event of a fall, the loop of rope leading to the spare karabiner is pulled through the KISA under friction, thus absorbing much of the energy generated by the fall. On reaching a peg where the cable is attached to the rock face, the spare karabiner is then clipped into the next cable run and the original karabiner can then be unclipped (note that the spare karabiner should be secured in such a way that the whole length of the spare loop of rope is available to be pulled through the KISA: this means it should not be secured to a gear loop at the rear of the harness). It is only at the moment of leap-frogging over the peg that both karabiners are clipped in to the cable; otherwise the KISA cannot function.

V-type self-belay system. Note this is a Salewa U-type Attac (photo: Salewa)

b) In the more modern, Y type systems, the karabiners are attached to two separate lengths of rope or tape, joined or stitched to form a Y-shape. There are several permutations on the theme, particularly regarding the means of attachment to the harness, and impact absorption, but the principle of how this type works is as follows. The single length of rope (the leg of the Y) is threaded through the KISA to leave a spare loop of rope which becomes part of the system incorporated in the tie on, or is attached to the side of the harness or gear loop. In the event of a fall, it is the spare loop of rope which is pulled through the KISA under friction, thus absorbing the energy generated by the fall. With this method both karabiners can be clipped into the cable: at the end of a cable run, first one, then the other karabiner is leapfrogged over onto the next length of cable.

Y-type self-belay system. This a Camp Rewind (photo: Camp)

Both methods are safe if used properly. However, whilst both types meet European standards (EN958), only the Y-type meets the more exacting UIAA standard (UIAA128), which also requires that all load bearing connections should be unalterable, meaning that systems with knots are not acceptable. For more technical information on the latest models visit a specialist climbing shop or contact the BMC www.thebmc.co.uk, or an equipment maker, for example Mammut www.mammut.ch, Camp www.camp.it, Petzl www.petzl.com, Salewa www.salewa.com. Full technical specification is defined by the UIAA, see www.uiaa.ch Energy Absorbing Systems for ‘Vie Ferrate’.

Climbers in V-type self-belay set on left and Y-type self-belay set on right. (photo: Collett’s Mountain Holidays)

In recent years, several manufacturers have devised impact absorbing systems using techniques other than KISAs, One such, the Petzl Scorpio, relied on stitched webbing which would tear progressively in the event of a fall. However, manufacture, and sale, of this type of Petzl lanyard has now ceased following an example of equipment failure. You should therefore be very wary buying such a system if you happen across one: if you are already using this type of lanyard, then maybe you should give consideration to retiring it.

A serious word of warning! DO NOT rely on a couple of slings, or a ‘home-made’ system, in place of a proper VF self-belay system. Whilst these might give you a sense of security, they could well be useless if you were to take a significant fall. Although you may see ‘made up’ VF sets in Italian Sports shops please note that a complete VF self-belay set should at least conform to EN958 and even better to UIAA 128 safety standards.

Karabiners: If you buy a ready-made self-belay set these may already be included, but not always. There are quite a few different models of karabiner available, not all of which are equally suitable. Consequently, when buying your gear, pay close attention to the karabiners incorporated which must always be the large sized karabiners to clip over some of the thicker wire protection (Type K karabiners, with automatic locking gates, are specifically designed for Via Ferrata use and should conform to EN12275 and UIAA121 standards, see www.uiaa.ch ‘Connectors’). Conventional screw gates are NOT practical for use on VFs where you will be clipping and unclipping repeatedly. One suitable model has a spring-loaded gate, unlocked by simply pulling the gate-lock back with the index finger. A variation on this type needs to be both pulled back and twisted through 90 degrees before the gate is unlocked; this can be frustratingly fiddly after a couple of hours! Small clips (sometimes already included on complete sets) are also available to thread the rope through on the karabiner; these cost next to nothing but are extremely useful for holding the karabiner on the rope to stop it spinning round and potentially falling off. Best of all perhaps, and the most expensive, are models from Salewa, Camp and Mammut specially developed for VFs, where the rope is tied through a separately formed ring at the base of the karabiner, such that it cannot then spin round. As well as being relatively light, a safety feature is that the gate is released by pressure from the heel of the thumb, naturally applied as the karabiner is offered up to the cable, making for ease of use during a long day.

Self-locking VF karabiners (photo: Collett’s Mountain Holidays)

Gloves: specially designed gloves for via ferratas are readily available from gear shops in the Dolomites. They resemble cycling gloves, with padded palms and cut-off fingers. Whether you wear gloves is entirely a matter of personal preference. They can, however, be very useful when the weather is wet and cold, and they do protect hands against frayed cables. You might decide to keep a pair in your rucksack, where even a cheap pair of garden gloves may prove to be a useful accessory.

Refinements: An ice axe and crampons are suggested for several routes in this guide. A rope is another important accessory if climbing with someone with limited experience, and for some of the more demanding outings included in this guidebook. The authors favour carrying 20–30 metres of halfrope, a couple of tapes and a belay plate when climbing in such situations. A quick-draw can be useful when taking photographs and to facilitate a rest, for example in traffic jams or on unusually strenuous routes.

Cable Etiquette

The ferrata cables and their use can be a real debating topic. Some prefer to regard via ferratas as rock climbs which happen to have permanently fixed protection. Others simply haul themselves up the cable by dint of brute strength! Most of us are happy to make our own compromises between these two extremes, climbing without use of the cable where we feel comfortable, but using it for a boost when required. Until you have found your own point of compromise, try climbing with one hand on the cable, with the karabiner(s) sitting on top of the clenched fist and being slid up by it, and using your other hand to exploit natural holds in the rock.

Popular routes can get very busy, and sooner or later you will find yourself being pressed from behind – this feels rather like being ‘tailgated’ on a motorway! The perpetrators are not only being discourteous, they are also putting both of you at risk since, should the upper climber fall, he will probably take the lower climber with him. This would load the protection far beyond what it is designed to withstand. Therefore, observe this simple rule: do not clip into a length of cable until the climber above you has progressed to the next cable length.

What to Wear

In making your choice of what to wear, you should take into account not only the anticipated weather, but also the situation of the route you are doing – whether a big, remote mountain day or a short, easily accessible route. Travelling light and carrying a small pack makes for a more enjoyable day on the hill when the weather is warm and settled. However, never lose sight of the fact that you are in a high mountain environment, with the potential for sudden and dramatic changes in the weather. A warm, sunny day, with a temperature of 20°C, can quickly drop by 10° or more, and hail or snow can be encountered down to 2500m, even in high summer. Do take this into consideration when selecting your gear for your via ferrata day.

Accidents and Mountain Rescue

As in most mountain regions the police have responsibility for organising mountain rescue. If you are unlucky enough to be involved in an accident the emergency contact number for mountain rescue is 118 (see App.4)

Climbers on ridge to Cima Capi with Lake Garda below (RIVA 8)

Some History

This section outlines the military campaigns of the First World War which helped shape the landscape of the southern Dolomites and contributed significant features now incorporated in via ferrata routes. (Volume one of this guide goes into greater detail on the history of Italy and the Dolomite region.)

When Italy entered the Great War in 1915 it overestimated the strength of its old adversary, Austria. Its advance was thus slow and cautious, giving the Austrians time to consolidate their defences. Consequently, a fairly stable front line developed, running from the Swiss/Italian/Austrian border (at Stelvio pass) in the west to the Italian/Slovenian border in the east. The front line ran through the Riva, Rovereto, Trento, Vicenza and Bassano areas covered in this book.

Wartime tunnels on Sentiero Galli (ROVER 2) (photo: Meg Fletcher)

The western segment of the front, from the Stelvio pass to Lake Garda, was of little strategic importance, and had relatively small troop numbers. It was in the area east of Lake Garda, across the mountains and plateaux of the Piccole Dolomites, from Trento to Bassano, that most activity was seen (although the main battles were fought further to the east, along the present Slovenian/Italian border).

The relatively settled nature of the front line through the Piccole Dolomites was disturbed on two principal occasions. In May 1916, a major Austrian offensive was mounted, when their forces swept southwards over Val Sugana and temporarily occupied territory from Pasubio to Asiago and Monte Grappa. After a further period of relative stability, the Austrians launched an advance on the Asiago plateau, early in 1918, and crossed the Piave river. This failed, and proved to be the last significant Austrian offensive.

To learn more about the so-called mountain war, the internet site of the Great War Society (www.worldwar1.com/itafront/) is useful. Another excellent website is: www.cimeetrincee.it. Of the few English language books available, perhaps the most accessible is Battleground Europe (Italy): Asiago by F MacKay, in the Battleground Europe series. Museums can be found in several places, with those in San Michelle all’Adige, Trento, Rovereto and Fiera di Primiero being particularly worthwhile. Further details of museums in the area can be found in Guide to the Museums and Collections in Trentino, published by (and available free from) the APT, Trentino.

The Aftermath

Peace was cemented in 1919 by the treaty of San Germain, which established the national boundaries seen today. Territorially, Italy was a major beneficiary of the peace settlement. In addition to the whole of the Dolomite region, Italy also secured part of the Dalmation coast and the port of Trieste. Altogether, some 1.6 million new Italian citizens were acquired, many of whom could not speak Italian! Many families tell of older relatives who were born Austrian, but died Italian.

Despite their Italian nationality, the people of the northern Dolomites, including the Bolzano province, generally retain German as their first language, and demonstrate many expressions of their cultural traditions. Unsurprisingly, separatist sentiment can be found not far beneath the surface within the German-speaking community. To a degree these pressures were defused by the granting of special status to the Trentino–Alto Adige region. This has been reinforced by generous tax benefits and grant aid, cementing the position of the region as one of the richest in the country.

The ancient Ladin culture still survives in the northern Dolomites, and there are daily Ladin-language broadcasts from Bolzano (see volume 1 for more information). Interestingly some of the villages around Bolzano, west across to Paganella and the Brenta, speak their own variations of Ladin, unique to very small areas, such that you can encounter different spoken dialects even from village to village.

History of CAI and Rifugios

Prior to the First World War, mountain huts were built across the Alps, including the Sud Tyrol, by the then German and Austrian Alpine Club. When the Sud-Tyrol was absorbed into Italy, following the treaty of San Germain, these huts were taken over by the CAI, becoming rifugios. Sadly, many were subsequently destroyed or used by Italian soldiers in their attempts to stop insurgency, and from 1922 to 1973 the Austro/Italian border was effectively closed to climbers. Happily, since 1973 many huts have been rebuilt or renovated, and now provide an excellent network of facilities throughout the region.

Route plaque memorabilia Ferrata del Centenario SAT (RIVA 7)

Geology

The name ‘Dolomites’ is derived from a French geologist, Deodat Guy Sylvain Tancre de Gratet de Dolomieu, a scholar who in 1789 was so fascinated by the carbonate rock that he sent samples to Switzerland for classification. When they were returned as of a previously unknown composition, they were named after him. In the 19th century it was mainly English mountaineers who applied the name ‘Dolomia’ to the area in recognition of the geological discovery.

Dolomite rock is made up of stratified calcium magnesium carbonate, with some areas of true limestone, some containing more stratified and folded rock than others depending on the area. Limestone has a reputation for loose rock, the Dolomites being no exception. Interestingly enough the colour of the rocks gives an indication of the firmness or friability. Generally, grey and black rocks are firm (though the black colour also indicates possible wetness), yellow-coloured rock is only reasonably firm, and red rock is the loosest.

Flora

Flora – flowers, plants and trees – form a wonderful complement to the mountain environment! The Dolomite landscape is a result both of man’s recent work and geological activity over millions of years. Scree and glacial debris carried down into the valleys was initially stony and barren, as can still be seen in vast areas. However, over time, the organic remains in the earth allowed vegetation to grow, and now an amazing array of flowers thrives in even the bleakest of landscapes.

Trees such as beech, fir and larch have become established in the valleys, with hardier pines on higher ground. Many varieties of fungi can be found, particularly in woodland, and their collection is an Italian obsession, albeit subject to strict controls.

Different plants live at different altitudes, with three principal growing zones identified. These are the sub-montane zone (below 1000m), the principally wooded montane zone (1000 to 2000m), and the high alpine zone (above 2000m), being that above the tree line. Alpine flora, usually abbreviated to alpines, is a generic term referring to plants which grow in this zone.

Factors such as temperature, light, soil, wind, rain, snow and ground slope combine to create complex environments. Plants adapt to different habitats by developing their own characteristics. Some grow in thick tufts to protect themselves against thermal fluctuations. Another common adaptation is to grow a protective covering of hair to act as a thermal cushion. Another device, where soil is thin, such as in rock crevices, is the development of long root systems. Snow cover in the winter has a big impact on plant life, and it is truly amazing in spring or early summer to see flowers appearing even as the snow melts!

A wide variety of alpine flora exist in the Dolomites: edelweiss, soldanella, ranunculus (alpine buttercup), saxifrage, gentian, geranium, anemone, violet and primula, to name but a few. Some species are endangered and protected, but your general rule should always be – do not pick flowers, however abundant they may appear to be.

Devil’s Claw: a rare plant, but occasionally seen on ferrata routes

Although you will see flowers in all areas covered by this volume, there are two places of particular interest. One is the whole ridge of Monte Baldo rising above the eastern side of Lake Garda (routes ROVER 5, 6 and 7 are in this area). The other is the Alpine Garden at Viote on Monte Bondone, which boasts over 1000 species of alpine plants and is open to the public from June until September (see TRENT 7).

If you wish to pursue an interest in alpine flowers, then in addition to reading the excellent books which are available, you can contact the Alpine Garden Society in the UK (see Appendix 5).

Wildlife

Camosci, stambecchi, deer and marmots are amongst the animals you are likely to see during your trip. The chamois, a type of goat, lives on the scant grass above the tree line, as does the less common long-haired stambecco. Roe deer are widespread at lower altitudes in, or close to, tree cover. Colonies of marmots, living in burrows above about 1600m, are more frequently heard than seen because of their high-pitched whistle. Whilst generally shy creatures, some colonies are becoming more used to human traffic, so you might well see one on look-out duty, erect on its hind legs.

Until the end of the 19th century, bears were common in the woods of the Dolomites, but hunting and de-forestation led to many years of extinction. However, it is now thought that some may have migrated back towards the Dolomites from Slovenia – but are still a long way from the main areas for via ferratas!

Birds include eagles, buzzards, mountain choughs (swarms of which seem to arrive on every summit as soon as a sandwich is unwrapped!), woodland grouse or capercaille (at home in woods and undergrowth), white ptarmigan (which changes its plumage in summer to brown), crows, woodpeckers, owls, alpine tree creeper, jay, skylark and many species of finch.

Snakes are often encountered basking on paths on warm, sunny afternoons. Adders are common, easily recognised by their chevron patterning; tread carefully so as not to disturb, remembering that they are more frightened than you are!

Normally timid creatures, juvenile marmots can be very curious!