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BOLZ 3

Monte Roen

Grade:	2
Seriousness:	A
Departure point:	Roen, Passo della Mendola
Ascent:	750m (950m if Testa Nera is included)
Descent:	750m (950m if Testa Nera is included)
Via ferrata:	100m
Approximate time:	4½–5 hours (7 hours if Testa Nera is included)
Highest altitude:	2116m
Map:	Tabacco map 049

Passo della Mendola is 24km from Bolzano above the town of Caldaro; it has plenty of accommodation and is accessible by bus from Bolzano or the funicular railway from Caldaro (information from the Val di Non Tourist Office, tel. 0463.830133, www.valdinon.cim.it, email aptvaldinon@cim.it).

The ferrata is quite short, but with an excellent round walk on good paths; the wonderful views from the summit of Monte Roen make this route well worth doing if you are in the area, even though it is out on a limb in relation to other ferrata routes.

From Passo della Mendola a good road (signed Roen 1.5km) leads south to a large car park by the Campi-Golf chairlift (open from mid-July to early September, and occasional weekends in May and June). Path 500 leads you up the wide ski piste by the side of the chairlift. At the top of the ski piste (about 30 minutes) follow signs leading right to Rif. Mezzavia and Rif. Oltradige. Go down to the side of Rif. Mezzavia and path 500 turns left. In a couple of minutes you ignore a CAI sign ‘Bellavista, Monte Lira’, and simply follow the waymarks for path 500 as it works its way up through woods for about 45 minutes to Rifugio Malga Roen, 1769m. It is a privately owned rifugio which has good food and nine beds (open end of May to end of October, tel. 0463.831642).

Path 500 was previously numbered 521, which is still shown on some maps.

Rifugio Malga Roen is at the crossroads of a number of paths, the one leading to the ferrata being 560, heading south on a gravel road to reach CAI Rif. Oltradige, 1775m, in about 15–20 minutes. ‘Cima Roen Ferrata 0.45, 523’ is signposted behind the rifugio, and a path zigzags up to its start in 10–15 minutes.

Monte Roen: waymarking here is difficult to see!

The ferrata is well cabled (but note that a lot of the cable is now loose) as it makes its way up easy ledges for 15 minutes and then goes up an open gully on good rock with cables all the way to the top (another 15 minutes). From the top of the ferrata, path 523 leads through small pines to the summit of Monte Roen, 2116m, in a further 15 minutes (a total of 3 hours from the Campi-Golf car park). The views from the summit take in many major mountain ranges, to the west Adamello and Brenta, to the north Stubai and Zillertal, and to the east/north-east the peaks of the Dolomites.

The simplest descent is to follow path 500 north from the summit of Monte Roen back down to Rif. Malga Roen (30 minutes) and retrace path 500 back to the start point in a total time of about 2 hours. An alternative descent, which extends the day by about 2 hours, heads south on path 500 to the summit of Testa Nera (also known as Schwarzer Kopf), 1960m. Descend south-east from here on a protected path, 560 Sentiero dei Camosci (or Gemsensteig), back to Rif. Oltradige, from where you retrace your steps back to Rif. Malga Roen and to path 500 down to the start point.