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1 PUERTO DE TARNA TO REINOSA

Peña Espigüete from the southeast (from Stage 1.4)

In terms of landscape the first stage of the walk is one of the best. The route crosses the southern flank of the Cantabrian Mountains, skirts the Picos de Europa and passes through two protected areas: the Regional Park of the Picos de Europa and the Natural Park of Fuentes Carrionas and Fuente Cobre-Montaña Palentina. It’s a stunning limestone landscape and includes a number of summits over 2500m high. The star of the show is Peña Espiguete, passed on Stage 3. Although it’s not the biggest mountain (at 2150m) it is the most admired and the one that attracts the climbers. It has an almost perfect shape, stands slightly apart from the rest of the Cantabrian Mountains, and dominates the scenery for most of the section.

Although the scenery is dramatic the trail is easy and the waymarking excellent. The GR1 is supported by the Castilla y León regional government and there are signs and information boards from the Puerto de Tarna through to Brañosera where the route crosses into Cantabria. It is, however, remote: services are few and far between and accommodation, particularly at the western end, is sparse. For this section booking in advance is essential if only to check that the accommodation is open.

From a historical perspective and compared with the others, Section 1 is perhaps less interesting but the landscape and natural habitat provide a ready compensation. Although you’re unlikely to see one of the resident Cantabrian brown bears you will see the Cantabrian Chamois, possibly otters and wild cats, and definitely vultures, particularly the huge Griffon vulture.

Access and Accommodation

The best way to get to the start of the route – Puerto de Tarna – is by bus from Oviedo. Oviedo is a lovely city particularly famous for its pre-Romanesque buildings the best of which – Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo – are located just out of town. These both featured in the Woody Allen film Vicky Cristina Barcelona and Allen’s praise of the place means he is now a local hero and honoured with a city centre statue. The easiest way to get to Oviedo for international travellers is via Asturias airport or, a bit further away, Santander. Alternatively you can fly to Madrid and catch a train.

Reinosa is much less interesting than Oviedo and, for most travellers, would not justify an extended stay. It is, however, particularly well connected: to Santander (a bus every hour); to Bilbao and León one bus each way a day; and Madrid (two trains a day). If you are continuing on the GR1 from here, you could easily press on to Corconte (the start of the second section) by bus when you finish walking Stage 6.

SECTION 1: KEY INFORMATION

Distance	158.5km
Total ascent	4950m
Total descent	5650m
Alternative schedule	Consider staying in the hostel in Trilollo and exploring walks around the Curavacas – see Stage 2.