Читать книгу Spain's Sendero Historico: The GR1 - John Hayes - Страница 12

STAGE 1

Puerto de Tarna to Salamon

Start	Hospedería de Salamon, Puerto de Tarna (1509m)
Distance	28km
Ascent/Descent	560m/1040m
Grade	4/4
Walking time	8hr 50min
Maximum altitude	1585m
Access	From Oviedo, by bus up to Bezanes (in the Alto Nalon and Natural Park of Redes) and a taxi up to the pass itself. All being well you should be able to start walking by 11.30am. From Bezanes, ask Rafael, the taxi driver who owns the casa rural there (see www.clubrural.com), to take you up in the morning.

An excellent first day, great scenery, long with a pass to climb over in the middle but not a tough walk. There is a bar in Manaña but it doesn’t provide food. If you want a shorter first day than there is accommodation at Manaña.

Puerto de Tarna is a pass that sits on the regional boundary between Asturias and Castilla y León. On the right-hand side of the road at the pass is an information board about the Regional Park of the Picos de Europa (easily confused with the National Park of the Picos de Europa which is located immediately to the northeast and contains the main part of the Picos de Europa range). The highest mountain in the Picos, Torre Cerredo (2648m), is about 6km from the pass as the crow flies.

Although there is a restaurant it is not always open and not to be relied on.

Follow a path for 600 metres heading directly south from the pass on the right-hand side of the valley, parallel to a road on the left-hand side, and descend for 600 metres across open moorland to the unoccupied hamlet of Caserío de Riosol. Pass the church and head down to a fountain and picnic area just below the hamlet and join a dirt road heading southeast. The signs at this point direct you along the PR-19. PR indicates a short walking trail, ‘Sendero de Pequeño Recorrido’ in Spanish.

The route follows the south side of a valley with open pastures to the left and the Picos de Mampodre to the right.

Stay on the dirt road, cross a low pass and head down into Maraña nestling under the cliffs of the Peña Hoguera. The views south of Peñas Mediodía (2192m) from within the village are excellent.

Maraña has a bar, a very small shop and cabin-style accommodation at the Cabañas Patagonicas (see www.booking.com).

Parque Regional de Picos Europa

Head east out of Maraña along the main road for about 600 metres. Leave the road just beyond footpath signs heading north, cross an old bridge and continue east along the edge of pastures to the little village of Acebedo.

The route enters Acebedo avoiding the main road and crosses a bridge over a small river in the village centre. Head southwest out of the village up an ever-steepening dirt road and follow it west for about a kilometre, towards the Peñas Mediodía. Turn south, staying on the same dirt road, and head up a valley into increasingly dramatic mountains. After 5km the dirt road splits. Turn left here and climb in an easterly direction. The landscape becomes open and moor-like with amazing views back into the Picos de Mampodre. Just before the top of the pass, leave the dirt road, which heads north up to the top of the ridge, and turn south to the pass, the Collado de Lois.

Cross the pass and follow a well-defined path down, initially through trees, and then across open pasture, to a stream joining a route that comes down from a refuge to the east. Follow a path running along a tight valley, initially along the side of a stream, and head south, then west, all the way to the hamlet of Lois in the centre of which stands a large baroque-style church (called the Mountain Cathedral, Catedral de la Montaña, for its size compared with the small village).

From Lois follow a road east and then south, through a narrow gorge with a river running along the bottom, through Ciguera, all the way to Salamon.

Salamon is another tiny village with accommodation in a casa rural, the Hospedería de Salamon (987 710 806, www.hospederiadesalamon.es)

STAGE 2

Salamon to Prioro

Start	Hospedería de Salamon, Salamon (1114m)
Distance	19.5km
Ascent/Descent	1020m/970m
Grade	3/4
Walking time	7hr 20min
Maximum altitude	1583m

Although not long, Stage 2 crosses three passes and a tackles a significant amount of climb. Apart from Las Salas there is nowhere to stop on the way so start early and aim to get to the Prioro in time for a late lunch.

Turn right from the Hospedería de Salamon and walk down the road to a bridge. Cross the bridge and turn right, head northeast through Salamon and climb along a concrete road to the edge of the village and take a right fork up the side of the valley. The trail zigs-zags its way steeply up through trees before levelling out on the final approach to the pass, the Collado del Pando.

Crossing the Collado del Pando

Cross the pass and follow a path that switches from the left-hand side of valley to the right before descending down along a beautiful old track. It passes a ‘chozo’, a traditional thatched shepherd’s refuge, and heads down through evergreen oaks, Pyrenean or Holm, to the village of Las Salas. Watch out for deer in the trees.

Las Salas is a small village located on the first significant road on the route. There is accommodation and food at the hostal/bar, Hostal las Pintas (987 71 08 33) and the rural tourism centre, the Centro de Turismo Rural Vegalion (see www.booking.com). There are also signs there for St James’s Way.

Follow the road past the hostal, turn right and cross the bridge over the Río Esla. Head east alongside the river. After a kilometre, on the other side of the river, the great wall of the dam that holds back the waters of the Riaño reservoir should be visible.

Leave the river and follow a path alongside a stream to a bridge and onto a road. Follow the road for 2km to the village of Remolina.

Remolina has no shops but it does have a particularly ugly modern church grafted onto the foundations of a much older one.

In the centre of the village, at the fountain, turn left off the road joining an ancient path that leaves the village and heads up through trees along the north side of the valley. It’s a beautiful climb with great views through gaps in the trees to the limestone cliffs on other side of the valley. 800 metres from Remolina, and after 200m of ascent, the route reaches a gate where the path splits: take the left fork. There is a particularly good viewing point just before the gate. By the time you have reached the pass, the Collada de Mostagerosa, you will have climbed nearly 500m.

From the top of the pass, to the east, you can just see Tejerina the village in the bottom of the next valley. Although it doesn’t look far the route to it is indirect. After the pass leave the dirt road and follow a path through broom and scrub. Initially it’s easy to follow but as it turns directly down the valley side, alongside a stream, it becomes overgrown, and the waymarks are difficult to find. The waymarks re-emerge about 100 metres below the point at which the route follows the stream but on the other side.

The GR1 then contours around the valley heading south and away from Tejerina along a dirt road before switching back on itself along an ancient tree-lined path towards the village. After 600 metres cross a dirt road and continue north through a pasture. The waymarks are again difficult to follow. After 200 metres, and on the other side of the pasture, the route runs alongside an old wall, a path and irrigation canal heading east and down towards Tejerina. Approaching the village the path merges with the irrigation canal and the route will almost certainly be wet and muddy.

Tejerina is a small village with no services. Watch out for the work of a local sculptor who has had some fun with the drinking fountains.

Arriving at the church, follow the road south out of the village for about 200 metres and turn left off the road onto a path. The path climbs gradually around an open hillside, heading south, before turning and crossing the pass, the Collado der Corral de los Lobos (site of an ancient wolf trap). On the other side of the pass the route joins a dirt road that it follows all the way down to Prioro.

Prioro is a village with a limited range of services including a cafeteria/bar ‘El Pando’, a restaurant ‘Las Conjas’ and a bread shop. There are three casa rurals that provide rooms on a nightly basis – the Molino de Prioro (987 71 55 12), the El Cueto Apartmentos (987 533 477) and the Casa Rural El Serrano (659 97 56 45) – the last two are both available through Booking.com.

STAGE 3

Prioro to Camporredondo de Alba

Start	Calle la Iglesia, Prioro (1075m)
Distance	24.5km
Ascent/Descent	960m/810m
Grade	4/4
Walking time	8hr 40min
Maximum altitude	1606m

A wonderful walk with huge open stretches dominated by views of the Peña Espigüete. There is nowhere to eat on the way so either take lunch or plan for a late one at Camporredondo de Alba.

The main street through Prioro is called Ctra Pedrosa. At the junction with Calle la Iglesia head east (opposite the Calle la Iglesia) and follow the road as it swings north on the west side of a valley to a dirt road and GR1 waymarks.

After 400 metres the dirt road divides. Take the right-hand fork over a bridge and head east. After a further 50 metres, cross another small bridge, ignoring a road to the left, turn right and leave the main dirt road (that continues on along the valley). Cross a bridge over the river and climb up the farm road on the southern side of the valley. After nearly 3km and 200m of climb the route reaches the top of the pass.

Crossing the pass the waymarks are a little confusing but the GR1 runs east down the valley and parallel to a road visible from the top. From the pass it dives through a gap in some gorse bushes and then turns down the valley before eventually meeting the road that takes you into Besande.

Besande has a fine 13th-century Romanesque church and an example of an hórreo, an ancient wooden grain store built on a stone plinth. There are also signs to a restaurant but it wasn’t open the last time I visited.

Leave the village on its eastern side, cross a bridge over the Río Grande, head northeast along the valley, parallel with the main road on its the western side. After about 3km the trail veers east into a wider valley dominated at the end by Peña Espigüete. The next village, 2km further on, Valverde de la Sierra, appears to sit underneath the mountain.

Valverde de la Sierra has a pretty Romanesque church but no services. It sits on the boundary between Parque Regional de Picos de Europa and the Parque Natural de Fuentas Carrionas y Fuente Cobre.

Take the road east out of the village (it turns into a dirt road and swings east) along a flat-bottomed valley. After about a kilometre, the road disappears and the route follows a trail through scrub up the side of the valley to the ridge. Head north along the ridge to the pass, the Collado de Cruz Armada, enjoying amazing views of Peña Espigüete.

Looking east towards Peña Espigüete from Collado de Cruz Armada

The GR1 then stays high, heading southeast for another 5km on an easy-to-follow dirt trail before making on a gentle descent down to Camporredondo de Alba. The views on this last part of the walk are excellent.

Camporredondo de Alba is a pretty village located immediately beneath a dam to the reservoir named after the village. It has two restaurant/hotels: the Meson el Abuelo (979 86 60 34); and the Hostal Restaurant Tia Goya (979 86 60 32). Both serve local food and the Tia Goya is open all year round.

STAGE 4

Camporredondo de Alba to Cervera de Pisuerga

Start	Meson el Abuelo, Camporrendondo de Alba (1250m)
Distance	30km
Ascent/Descent	680m/900m
Grade	4/4
Walking time	9hrs 20min
Maximum altitude	1433m

Apart from a 5km stretch of road walking, this is another excellent stage with great views, particularly early on. There are several options for lunch stops (and wild water swimming), particularly towards the end.

From the hotel(s) head east to the trees in the village centre and down the bridge over the Río Carrión. Watch out for otters in the river. After 200 metres take the left fork before a bridge over a stream and head along a dirt road up the valley past a series of buildings containing beehives. Follow the dirt road as it turns north and head downhill over a cattle grid to a junction with other paths, cross it and carry on into ever-improving scenery.

Peña Espigüete (2150m) is now to the west of the trail and Curavacas (2525m) to the north. In the foreground is the Embalse de Camporredondo (reservoir).

The trail continues north above the banks of the reservoir, crosses a bridge and then splits with a variant heading onto Triollo.

Triollo has one hotel, the Hostal Rural La Montaña (979 866 171) 3km to the north of the village and Hostel Curavacas (979 866 223) which is a available through Booking.com.

The main GR1 turns right at the junction with the variant and heads east across open moorland to La Lastra, a hamlet with no services. Turn right in the centre of the village and follow a small road heading south and take the first left along an old tree-lined trail going east along a shallow but pretty valley which, depending on the time of year, will be full of cattle. The route passes underneath power lines and becomes a little steeper as it climbs up to a road, a picnic spot and some information boards at the Col Alto de la Varga.

The Col is at the foot of Peña de Santa Lucía a steep limestone mountain with views of the Río Carrión valley and the Montaña Palentina range to the west. To the south is the Peña Redonda, the bear reserve and Tosande, a remote yew forest.

The route then turns abruptly south and for about 400 metres follows a ridge before turning east again. It then descends along a steep path into a densely wooded gorge. The cliffs above the gorge provide an ideal place for nesting vultures and there is every chance they will be out patrolling the skies.

From Rebanal de las Llantas, join the road for the next 5km to the other side of the village of San Martín de los Herreros. Unfortunately neither village has any services to compensate for the hard surface walk.

Looking north to Curavacas

Turn right off the road 300 metres after San Martín de los Herreros, cross an old bridge and follow the edge of a water meadow along what must have been the old road to Ventanilla. On the north side of Ventanilla is a bar but if you can wait an hour the options are much better at the next village, Ruesga.

Instead of crossing the main bridge, head through a farmyard immediately to the south of the road and climb up onto the path just next to one of the farm buildings. Follow the path alongside the Embalse de Ruesga (where, if it’s hot and the weekend, the locals will be having a swim) all the way to Ruesga.

Ruesga is a pretty village sitting underneath a dam and has a bar and two restaurants. The Hotel Rural Casa María (979 870741) is a particularly good place to eat, serves local specialties and has rooms. One of Spain’s famous parador hotels, the Cervera de Pisuerga, sits high above the village with famously great views.

Cervera de Pisuerga is only 2km further on, has lots of accommodation and, because of the distance to Brañosera (the next stopover), is perhaps the better place to aim for. To get there head east for 300 metres along the road, turn left onto a dirt track and follow it to the town.

CERVERA DE PISUERGA POPULATION 2461

Cervera de Pisuerga is a scruffy town but if you’re travelling west to east is the place to find the first of the GR1’s historical gems. The most important one is the church of Santa María del Castillo passed on the way into the town. The building as a whole is late Gothic (16th century) and at one time served as a medieval fortress. It’s impressive from the outside but the real gems are inside and include an altarpiece from the Spanish-Flemish School by Felipe de Bigarmy (part of the funeral chapel of Santa Ana) and the main altarpiece constructed in a Renaissance style. You need to book in advance to visit (606 145 0045). To the south of the town, just before the village of Vado, are the remains of the San Vicente Hermitage, an 8th-century ‘building’ carved out of a rock and surrounded by graves (happily empty), also carved out of rock.

The town has the full range of services with several small hotels the best of which is probably the Hostal Peñalabra (979 970 037; www.hostalpenalabra.com) – very traditional, comfortable and with excellent food. The Hotel Roble (979 874 429; www.hotelelroble.com) – a modern hotel – serves early breakfast which is helpful if you want a fast getaway in the morning. Both hotels can be booked at www.booking.com.

STAGE 5

Cervera de Pisuerga to Brañosera

Start	Calle San Roque, Cervera de Pisuerga (1054m)
Distance	33km; shortcut: 27km
Ascent/Descent	1440m/1240m; shortcut: 1130/930m
Grade	4/4
Walking time	11hr; shortcut: 9hr 30min
Maximum altitude	1603m

Another great walk with wonderful views, particularly towards the end. The shortcut is recommended but if the route is still too long then stay at Estalaya. If you’re going the whole way organise a sandwich for lunch.

Head north through the town along the main street (Calle San Roque). Continue north as the main road swings east, stay on left-hand side of the Río Pisuerga, passing through a new municipal park, along a path between playing fields and the river, past an old water mill and into open countryside. Stay on the left-hand side of the river until it crosses an old bridge into the village of Arbejal.

Arbejal is a small pretty stone village with a youth hostel (979 87 01 74).