Читать книгу The Complete Essential Oils Sourcebook: A Practical Approach to the Use of Essential Oils for Health and Well-Being - Julia Lawless - Страница 8
ОглавлениеInterest in aromatherapy is growing year by year. As more and more brands of essential oils and aromatherapy products are to be found in the shops there is a steady increase in the home use of aromatic essential oils. Professional aromatherapy treatment is now available in beauty salons, fitness clubs, and hairdressers, while essential oils are used therapeutically in modern hospitals as well as complementary health centers.
Aromatherapy involves using pure essential oils, derived from plants, in a huge range of health and beauty treatments, as well as for pleasure. In offering us a “natural” way of caring for our health, it is just one aspect of the growth of interest in all forms of alternative or complementary medicine and traditional home remedies. Modern (or allopathic) medicine is spectacularly successful in many ways, but increasing numbers of people feel that they would like to know about ways of preventing illness in the first place, and to be able to use simple, safe, and drug-free home remedies for ordinary, everyday ailments. There is also a growing feeling that in modern medicine we are treated as a collection of parts, some of which may have problems, rather than as a whole organism, and least of all as a person. In contrast, complementary medicine, of which aromatherapy forms a part, offers a way of being treated holistically—as a whole being in whom there are many aspects of a disease or illness and for whom individually tailored treatment is required.
In our search for ways of keeping fit and healthy without needing to use synthetic drugs, aromatherapy oils offer the advantage of their complete naturalness and their general safety and simplicity of use. They offer ways of preventing illness and treating ourselves at home, and in the hands of professional practitioners they can be used as part of a multifaceted holistic treatment.
In fact, of course, things are never quite as simple as they seem. Aromatherapy is complex in many ways. Firstly, it means different things to different people, and secondly the oils used, although simple in that each is the pure, natural product of a single plant, are complex and potent substances that need to be used with care, knowledge and experience.
The oils can be used simply for their fragrance and its effects on mood and emotion, but in professional practice their physiological effect is central. This is generally obtained through the oils being used in massage treatment, but some practitioners (with full medical qualifications) also use essential oils clinically in the tradition of the French pioneer, René-Maurice Gattefossé, in minutely prescribed oral doses and through inhalation.
“Volatile essences have healed people since the dawn of time.”
RENÉ-MAURICE GATTEFOSSÉ
The word “aromatherapy” literally means therapy through aroma or scent, without specifying the source of the scent. But aromatherapy in practice uses only essential oils, and no other form of scent. Its richness is that it has so many aspects, which are complementary to each other, and which may also overlap, but which are nevertheless distinct. In professional medical practice, it is the substances or oils themselves and their bio-chemical effects that are central, while in many home uses of essential oils it is the aroma that counts and the pleasure of the scent is the main reason for using the oils. Between these two extremes are cosmetic aromatherapy and massage, where the scent and the beneficial physiological effect of essential oils go hand in hand, and simple medical aromatherapy, which uses the oils’ many curative effects. Aromatherapy must be unique in having so many facets, and in offering such a wealth of pleasurable, practical, and therapeutic uses.
THE THERAPEUTIC USE of essential oils covers a very wide spectrum. This is part of their charm and uniqueness. At their simplest, oils can be worn as natural perfumes, made into aromatic bath preparations or used in many ways as home remedies. They can also be combined with both home and professional massage to provide a very effective treatment for stress-relief. At the other end of the scale, specific botanical essences can be used by clinically trained therapists or doctors for the treatment of serious medical conditions.
Rose petals are a traditional ingredient in potpourri.
The ways in which aromatherapy can be practiced can be separated into five areas of specialization. Although it is impossible to draw hard and fast lines between these various aspects, classifications of this kind are helpful, at least in the short term, for the process of clarification and understanding. These different areas are: simple aromatherapy for home use, cosmetic aromatherapy, perfumery and the psychotherapeutic use of oils for the effects of their odors on the mind, massage using essential oils, and medical and clinical aromatherapy, where essential oils are used to treat medical complaints.
Simple aromatherapy
A basic approach uses aromatic oils in a wide range of methods, including vaporization, aromatic bathing, local massage, cosmetic creams, and steam inhalation, for first-aid purposes and in the treatment of common complaints. This approach is in the ancient tradition of herbal “simples”—home remedies or household secrets, originally passed on from generation to generation. It can be adapted by nurses and other professionals and used as an adjunct to medical treatment. As a type of preventive medicine, it can help to ward off infectious illness and promote general health and well-being.
“The Roses of Heliogabalus” by Sir Lawrence Alma-Tadema, 1836–1912.
Cosmetic aromatherapy
The use of essential oils for skin and beauty care is an ancient and specialized aspect of aromatherapy. There are records that show that many primitive cultures used natural aromatics as a means of adornment and as a way of enhancing their beauty. Indeed, many indigenous peoples still do so today. However, the earliest and richest associations concerning the cosmetic use of aromatic materials are to be found in the practices of the Ancient Egyptian civilization, some 5000 years ago. Aromatic herbs, gums and oils were incorporated into carefully formulated cosmetic ointments and other beauty preparations, as well as being employed in the embalming process. Seen in this light, the Ancient Egyptians were the original precursors of modern beauty therapists, especially those who use aromatic oils as part of their cosmetic treatments.
Psycho-aromatherapy and perfumery
The term psycho-aromatherapy is used to describe the use of the pyschotherapeutic benefits of essential oils, effected mainly by inhalation but also by other methods of application. In the practice of psycho-aromatherapy the ways in which botanically derived aromas can influence moods and emotions and help to induce certain states of mind are studied. This can be by bringing about a state of relaxation or through their energizing and stimulating effects. This contrasts with aromachology, in which both natural and artificial scents are studied for their therapeutic value, but principally for purely commercial purposes in the perfume industry. Nevertheless, psycho-aromatherapy does have a great deal in common with the art of perfumery, especially since all perfumes were originally made using natural aromatics, and since they both focus on the psychological effects of scent and require a high degree of olfactory discrimination and knowledge.
Aromatherapy massage
There are many benefits to be derived from combining massage with the use of essential oils. It is the main method adopted by professional aromatherapists working in the field of alternative health care. Aromatherapy massage has been largely influenced by the French pioneer, Marguerite Maury, whose research work was directly aimed at utilizing the healing and revitalizing properties of aromatics, especially through application to the skin. This approach is notably beneficial for the treatment of stress-related disorders and requires a substantial degree of training, both in acquiring massage techniques and in understanding the many and varied properties of the essential oils that may be used.
Medical aromatherapy
Medical aromatherapy includes the systematic use of essential oils in the treatment of clinically diagnosed medical conditions. It adopts a wide range of methods, including oral prescription. It should only be practiced by suitably trained medical doctors or by clinical therapists, who, like qualified medical herbalists, have undergone a training period of at least four years. This is the approach of the 20th-century founder of aromatherapy, René-Maurice Gattefossé, and his scientific and medical successors.
THE PRACTICE OF AROMATHERAPY benefits from being placed within the context of holistic health care as a whole. Whereas the emphasis in modern allopathic or orthodox medicine is to target a given complaint with a specific remedy, from a holistic point of view, the best form of treatment is always a multifaceted one. The air we breathe, our nutrition, exercise, relaxation, and, above all, our emotional or mental disposition, are all essential factors which need to be taken into account.
Holistic health care is more concerned with cultivating an understanding of healthy living and of preventive techniques than with providing symptomatic relief. In any case of “disease,” it is vital to assess the overall health of the person, both physically and mentally, and then to try and ease the problem at its source, while at the same time building up the body’s natural immunity. It is preferable to prevent the problem from occurring in the first place.
Preventive medicine is not given enough value or emphasis in Western society today. It is all too easy to let health slide, then reach for a bottle of pills when something goes wrong. Yet most people are prepared to service their car regularly, rather than wait for the inevitable breakdown to occur. Why do we not seem to take the same precautions to nurture both our bodies and minds as in the East? There, many patients traditionally receive acupuncture treatment at each change of season to ensure that the body and mind remain in optimum health for the following quarter. It is also still traditional for Chinese people of all ages to gather outside in the mornings to practice tai chi, an ancient martial art form which combines gentle exercise with moving meditation to promote good health and longevity.
From the perspective of holistic health care, a wholesome diet, fresh air and sufficient exercise, together with a sense of emotional security, intellectual satisfaction, and some form of daily spiritual or psychological nourishment are all factors that can help to preserve a sense of well-being. Herbal tonics and natural aromatics have also held a traditional place in the preventive medicinal practices of many cultures, both ancient and modern. It is certainly true that people who are exposed to the beneficial effects of essential oils on a daily basis tend to have a greater resistance to disease in general.
“Consciously or unconsciously, every being is capable of healing himself or others …”
INAYAT KHAN
Tai chi exercises provide a way of keeping fit both mentally and physically.
“People who use essential oils all the time, as part of their daily bathing, skincare and household routines … have a high level of resistance to illness, ‘catching’ fewer colds … than average and recovering quickly if they do.”1
Essential oils exert a psychological lift (called their “cephalic effects”) and help to promote a positive mental state, while, on a more physiological level, they stimulate the immune system and exhibit all types of preventive and curative properties. In the words of the French medical aromatherapist, Dr. Daniel Penoël:
“Aromatic medicine is a preventive healing focusing on the evolutionary side of all living beings in the Biosphere, be it in the animal or the vegetable kingdom.”2
The pressures of Western society place many stresses and strains upon the individual. If these are not recognized, they can lead to more serious health problems. Aromatherapy, with its holistic approach to health and well-being, can be used to intervene and prevent long-term problems occurring.
APART FROM AROMATHERAPY and medical herbalism, there are many other types of alternative treatment that can be used in holistic medicine to complement and enhance one another. A condition such as osteoarthritis, for example, benefits from a multifaceted approach that would include specific herbal remedies, dietary changes, gentle exercise, aromatic baths, and massage treatments, as well as osteopathy, and possibly even pyschotherapeutic advice. On the other hand, it is possible to treat a condition such as a boil or bruise more simply at home with a combination of dietary nutrients and local aromatic applications. This book refers to the related treatments wherever possible.
In the section on aromatic remedies (here), each complaint is defined and a number of different methods of treating the problem are suggested, both with the use of essential oils in a variety of ways and with supportive techniques. “We are what we eat” is perhaps overused as a slogan, yet its truth remains. In holistic health care, and in the field of preventive medicine in particular, diet, together with a positive mental attitude is very influential in maintaining well-being. Details of the specific vitamins that are required by the body, and their dietary sources, are given at the end of the book in the Appendix, Vitamins and dietary sources.
Other types of treatment that are raised and given emphasis in the discussion of treatment in this book are the use of Bach flower remedies, allergy testing, osteopathy, psychotherapy, counseling, yoga and relaxation, and meditation and prayer. Despite this emphasis upon alternative medicine as prevention and treatment, orthodox and alternative approaches should not be seen as necessarily working in opposition. Each has its own value: what is required today is an integration of modern scientific techniques and traditional knowledge. In India and China, for example, traditional forms of medicine are being used alongside the newly adopted surgical skills and other modern innovations, while in the West there has been a surge of interest in the medicinal potential of aromatic materials and herbal medicine.
Borage is used to make a base oil and is very beneficial to the skin.
Body and mind
Aromatherapy treats mind and body together. The scent of the essential oils used can have a powerful effect on the emotions while the oils’ chemistry affects the body.
A wholesome and balanced diet, with plenty of fresh fruit, plays an important part in maintaining health.
Yoga quickly makes the body more supple and helps to maintain mind–body awareness.
LIKE TRADITIONAL HERBAL remedies, essential oils are very valuable self-help tools because they are effective in the prevention and treatment of many common conditions, yet are simple and easy to use. It is wise to build up a collection of the most useful essential oils, together with a small selection of vegetable base or carrier oils and creams for use in the home medicine chest. The most important of these are arnica ointment, calendula cream or oil, grapeseed oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, and wheat germ oil (see here for a full list of base oils).
Many essential oils, apart from being used for first aid or for the treatment of common complaints, are also ideal as bath oils, perfumes, or room fresheners. Even when they are used purely for esthetic purposes, they are still fulfilling a positive preventive and therapeutic role. A small, essential aromatic oil kit can prove to be an extremely valuable asset at home, in the workplace, or while on vacation, and when traveling. There is a group of five invaluable oils to keep in the home medicine cabinet, or to take with you when traveling: lavender, tea tree, rosemary, Roman chamomile, and peppermint.
There is a second group of 30 other oils that can also prove very useful, although they are not always the most popular or pleasantly scented (see here). In the section on specific remedies, several essential oils are usually mentioned for each illness, including some from an additional group of 30 (see overleaf). It is not, however, necessary to buy all the oils listed, as it is possible to treat many common illnesses by using up to five oils, especially when the oils are mixed or blended together in various combinations. The recommended blends which are highlighted in the section on the treatment of specific problems are always made up from a selection of the essential oils listed overleaf.
JASMINE
CHAMOMILE
LAVENDER
ROSE PETALS
Essential oils for the medicine chest
Group 1
Lavender is extremely versatile, especially for stress-related disorders and for skin complaints.
Tea tree is invaluable for its antiviral, antiseptic, fungicidal and immune-stimulant properties.
Rosemary has stimulant properties, and is an expectorant as well as being a tonic to the entire system.
Roman Chamomile is a mild relaxant and anti-inflammatory agent, especially as a children’s remedy.
Peppermint is good for digestive complaints such as nausea or indigestion, and for respiratory problems, and for treating fever.
Group 2
Atlas cedarwood Bergamot Black Pepper Carrot seed Clary Sage Clove bud Cypress Eucalyptus blue gum Frankincense German (blue) chamomile Ginger Grapefruit Jasmine Juniper Lemon Eucalyptus Myrrh Myrtle Neroli Patchouli Rose geranium (geranium) Rose (Rose maroc) Sandalwood Scotch pine needle Spanish sage Sweet basil (basil) Sweet fennel (fennel) Sweet marjoram (marjoram) White thyme (thyme) Valerian Ylang Ylang
Group 3
Angelica Aniseed
Benzoin Cajeput
Camphor Cardamom
Celery seed Cinnamon leaf
Citronella Coriander
Dill Elemi Galbanum
Hyssop Lemon Lemongrass
Lime Mandarin
Melissa Nutmeg
Palmarosa Parsley seed
Petitgrain Rosewood
Sweet orange Tagetes Virginian cedarwood
Vetivert West Indian bay Yarrow
PEPPERMINT
ROSEMARY
FRANKINCENSE
ANISEED
ONE OF THE SIMPLEST and most pleasant ways to use essential oils is in the bathtub, where the oils enhance the relaxing effect of a warm slow bath, or the stimulating effect of a brisk hot bath or cold dip. The therapeutic effects of bathing have been recognized for centuries. The sophistication of many of the Ancient Roman spa bath houses can still be seen, with their hot and cold compartments, steam rooms, and aromatic massage quarters. Very hot baths stimulate perspiration, which is valuable in cases of infectious illness and for encouraging elimination of wastes and detoxification. However, they can also be draining and, in the long run, can cause the skin to lose its elasticity. A medium-hot or warm bath has a soothing and relaxing effect on both the mind and body, while cool or cold water has a more invigorating and stimulating effect. Lukewarm baths are good for lowering the temperature in cases of fever.
Pure essences
This is the easiest and most popular way of using essential oils for bathing. Simply add from 5 to 10 drops of your chosen essential oil (or a blend of oils) to the bathtub when it is full, and relax in the aromatic vapors. Use lavender oil for promoting relaxation, rosemary as an invigorating tonic, or marjoram for soothing tired muscles.
Bath bags
Gather a selection of fresh herbs or aromatic flowers together, such as lavender sprigs, rose petals, lemon balm leaves, and chamomile flowers, and tie them loosely in a muslin bag with a piece of string or ribbon. Choose specific herbs both for their therapeutic properties and for their scent. If you wish, add a few drops of a chosen essential oil to the bundle to enhance the fragrance. Then tie the bag to the faucets and let it hang in the stream of hot water while the bathtub is filling.
Marjoram relieves aching muscles.
WARNING
Always check with specific safety data before using a new oil in the bathtub, to avoid possible irritation. Details are given for each oil in the information here. Increase the dilution during pregnancy and for babies or infants to at least half the recommended amount. For babies, avoid the possibly toxic or irritant oils altogether.
Rosemary invigorates.
Bath salts
Epsom salt (magnesium sulphate) or Dead Sea salts are healing substances in themselves, and make an excellent medium for combining with essential oils. Salt contains precious minerals, has an alkalizing effect on the body, promotes the elimination of acidic wastes from the muscles and joints, and induces copious perspiration—good for infectious illness, rheumatism, arthritis, and for promoting relaxation. Dissolve one or two handfuls of Epsom salt in boiling water, add a few drops of essential oil, and pour into the bathtub. Alternatively, simply add 5 drops of essential oil to every handful of Epsom salt or Dead Sea salts, pour directly into the bathtub and agitate the water before getting in.
Moisturizing bath oils
A few drops of an essential oil can also be mixed in a teaspoonful of vegetable oil, such as sweet almond oil, before being added to the bathtub. This helps to moisturize the skin and ensures an even distribution of the essential oil, which is especially important in the case of babies and young children.
To make a larger quantity, mix 200 drops of an essential oil (or blend) with 3½fl oz/100ml jojoba oil or another base or carrier oil (see here) containing five percent wheat germ oil and store in a tinted glass bottle. Add a teaspoonful of this mixture to the bath water when required.
Foot and hand baths
Valuable for warding off chills, for easing arthritic or rheumatic pain, and for the treatment of specific foot complaints, a hot aromatic foot bath can also be very effective for relieving stress and over-exhaustion (use lavender and sweet marjoram) and is a quick aid to combating excessive perspiration (use tea tree and rosemary). Simply sprinkle 5 or 6 drops of essential oil into a bowl or basin of warm or hot water and soak feet or hands for about ten minutes. Alternatively, dilute the essential oils in a teaspoonful of cider vinegar, honey, or a moisturizing vegetable oil beforehand.
Two or three drops of soothing oil can be used in a baby’s bedtime bath and this may lead to a more restful night for everyone.
Valerian produces an oil used to relieve nervous tension and insomnia.
Therapeutic hip bath or douche
This method can be helpful in the treatment of urinary or genital conditions, such as pruritus (itching), thrush, or cystitis. The area can be bathed in a hip or sitz bath or a bowl of warm water to which 3 to 5 drops of a suitable essential oil have been added—a mixture of cypress and lavender, for example, can help to heal the perineum after childbirth. Alternatively, an enema pot or plastic douche can be bought from some pharmacies. Mix 3 to 5 drops of a suitable essential oil with warm water before inserting—bergamot and tea tree mixture is effective for the treatment of thrush.
The sauna
In Scandinavia, the sauna is the traditional method of cleansing and toning the whole system. Dry heat and steam are used to open the pores and promote the elimination of waste products. This is followed by a plunge into very cold water that closes the pores, and tones and refreshes the skin. In Finland, where the tradition of the sauna originates, bundles of fresh birch twigs are slapped on the skin, stimulating the circulation and imparting a delicious fragrance. Essential oils that are most suitable for use in the traditional sauna include fresh-scented oils such as pine, juniper, myrtle, eucalyptus, and cedarwood. (Very rich or floral oils such as lavender, ylang ylang, or patchouli are too heady and should not be used.) Add 2 or 3 drops to 17fl oz/500ml of warm water and throw on the heat source for an aromatic and refreshing steam bath.
Therapeutic massage and body oils
THERAPEUTIC AROMATIC MASSAGE is the main method used by professional aromatherapists, but it can also be practiced at home—either on oneself, or on a friend or partner. Body oils are best applied after a warm bath, when the pores of the skin are still open, to encourage rapid absorption.
For the purpose of massage or general application to the skin, a few drops of essential oil are always mixed with a larger measure of base or carrier oil, usually a light vegetable oil such as sweet almond oil or grapeseed oil. When preparing a body oil or massage oil, the dilution should be in the region of 5 to 30 drops of essential oil in a bottle of 2fl oz/50ml of base oil, depending upon the type of essential oil used and its specific purpose. For general massage purposes, a dilution of 2.5 percent (see here) is suitable for adult use. To calculate how much essential oil to add to a base oil, assess the amount of base oil in fluid ounces/millilitres and add half the number of drops of essential oil.
Standard dilution (2.5%)
| Base Oil Amount | Essential Oil in Drops |
| 1 tsp/5ml | 2–3 |
| 1 tbsp/15ml | 6–7 |
| 1fl oz/25ml | 12–13 |
| 2fl oz/50ml | 25 |
| 3.5fl oz/100ml | 50 |
Special dilutions
For 2fl oz/50ml of base oil:
| Blend Percentage | Essential Oil in Drops |
| 0.5% | 5 |
| 1% | 10 |
| 1.5% | 15 |
| 2% | 20 |
| 2.5% | 25 |
| 3% | 30 |
Vaporized oils and steam inhalation
ALL ESSENTIAL OILS are highly volatile, and evaporate or vaporize on exposure to air, giving off their aroma. In inhaling these aromas we absorb the essence in two ways: while the scent itself directly affects receptors in the brain, molecules of substances from the oils are absorbed into the bloodstream and circulated around the body. Many oils have a medicinal effect in the air itself as well as on the person breathing them, as they are powerful antiseptics that can kill airborne bacteria. Heating the oils speeds up their evaporation rate.
Vaporizer
Purpose-made ceramic or metal vaporizers are now readily available in specialty shops and some health stores. A few drops of essential oil are put in the bowl of the burner and a night-light is then placed underneath, causing the oil to heat up and evaporate. A little water can be mixed with the oil in the bowl to slow down the evaporation rate if required. Because they have a naked flame, vaporizers of this type should be kept well out of reach of children or pets.
Useful oils for vaporizers
To disinfect a sickroom: Eucalyptus, Myrrh, Thyme, Pine, Tea tree. To freshen the air and cheer the spirits: Basil, Bergamot, Lavender. To keep insects at bay: Citronella, Geranium. For sensual perfume: Black pepper, Clary sage. To clear the head and mind: Hyssop, Marjoram, Peppermint
This traditional vaporizer uses a night light.
CITRONELLA
Electric diffuser
An electric diffuser is more expensive to buy than a ceramic or metal vaporizer, but has the advantage of not needing a naked flame to generate the heat. This makes it more suitable for night use, especially in children’s bedrooms. In addition, many electric diffusers have a variety of settings to adjust the rate of evaporation. Such diffusers are readily available through specialist aromatherapy suppliers.
Vaporized essential oils can be used for various purposes: a penetrating oil such as sweet basil to scent a room and dispel unwanted odors; an antiseptic oil such as eucalyptus to rid a room of germs in cases of infectious illness; insecticides such as citronella to repel mosquitoes and other insects; steam inhalation, using an oil such as rosemary, for respiratory disorders. The five main methods of assisting the vaporization of essential oils are described in detail below.
Light bulb ring
A very easy and cheap way of vaporizing essential oils is to use a ceramic or metal light bulb ring. Simply put a few drops of essential oil into the ring, place on top of a light bulb, then switch the light on. Please see the warning below for safety.
BASIL
WARNING
Do not apply essential oils directly to a light bulb, as this can cause the bulb to explode.
Inhaling vaporized essential oils, such as peppermint, from a bowl of steaming-hot water is a simple way to treat respiratory infections.
Steam inhalation
Vaporizing an essential oil using hot water as a medium is especially valuable for respiratory conditions, such as whooping cough. It can also be used to help to keep up the humidity levels in centrally heated rooms. For environmental purposes, simply add a few drops of essential oil to a bowl of hot water placed on a radiator or any other source of heat.
Direct steam inhalation is especially suited to congested sinus, throat, and chest infections. Soaking in a steaming hot bath to which have been added 5 or 6 drops of expectorant oils such as myrtle or rosemary, which are both nonirritating to the skin, helps to clear congestion. This method also acts as a kind of facial steam or sauna: the use of cleansing, antiseptic oils such as tea tree can help unblock the pores and clear the complexion of minor blemishes.
Inhalation for a cold
Add about 5 drops of a decongestant essential oil such as peppermint to a bowl of steaming water, cover the head with a towel, and breathe deeply for three minutes, keeping the eyes closed.
Scented fabrics
A simple technique to help combat coughs and colds is to apply a few drops of an expectorant essential oil such as myrtle to the pillow, pajamas, night clothes, or handkerchief. If you wish to keep insects at bay, applying a few drops of an essential oil such as geranium to hanging ribbons or sprinkling the oil onto your clothing can be a very effective way of doing this. Because essential oils are volatile, unlike vegetable oils, they will not leave a stain on linen or clothing.
Oils sprinkled onto a handkerchief can be inhaled throughout the day
Simple medicinal and household uses
THERE ARE MANY other beneficial and pleasurable ways in which to use essential oils in the home, many of them closely allied to uses of herbs in medicine, or linked to well-established, longstanding household traditions of using flowers and herbs. The five quintessential oils for the medicine chest are all good standbys for simple first-aid treatments and straightforward medical care for common complaints, while for perfumery and fragrance the choice is largely a question of personal preference.
Hot and cold compresses
This method is suited to a variety of first-aid cases—use a hot compress for abscesses, muscular aches, pains, and severe tension; a cold compress for bumps and bruises, headaches, migraine, and sprains.
Preparing a compress
Prepare a hot compress by dipping a clean facecloth or piece of absorbent cotton in a small bowl containing about 17fl oz/500ml of steaming water to which has been added 5 or 6 drops of an essential oil such as lavender. Squeeze out any excess water, and then apply to the affected area. Apply a bandage if required and repeat as necessary.
Make a cold compress by dipping a clean facecloth or cotton pad in a bowl of cold water to which has been added 5 or 6 drops of a cooling oil such as peppermint, squeezing out any excess water. Alternatively, wrap the cloth round an ice cube before applying to the affected area. Refresh the compress regularly and apply until the swelling or pain subsides.
Hot and cold compresses can be used with appropriate oils for injuries, aches and pains, headaches, abscesses, and indigestion.
Gargles and mouthwashes
For the treatment of mouth ulcers, sore throat, bad breath, or other mouth or gum infections, simply add 3 to 5 drops of an essential oil such as fennel or thyme to a glass of warm boiled water and mix well. Then swill the mouth out well and/or gargle.
Neat application
In general, essential oils should not be applied neat to the skin as they are highly concentrated. Some oils can cause irritation or a burning or tingling sensation when they are applied in an undiluted form. However, there are exceptions to this rule. (See First aid, Perfumes and household fragrance)
Gargling with water and a few drops of thyme oil soothes a sore throat and is a useful treatment for a range of mouth infections.
WARNING
Essential oils should never be used neat or taken internally except as specified in this book or on the advice of a trained physician. Always follow the instructions carefully.
Bee stings can be soothed with a cold compress.
First aid
Lavender oil is very soothing and rapidly helps the skin to heal, usually without even leaving a scar. It can be applied directly to burns, insect bites, cuts, and spots as first-aid treatment. Tea tree is another oil which can be used neat for first-aid purposes. However, before applying any oil neat to the skin, always do a patch test as described here.
Disinfectants
Such oils as tea tree or lavender can be used for disinfecting clothes and diapers. For washing by hand, add up to 50 drops of essential oil to a bowl of warm water; otherwise add the same quantity to a liquid detergent and use in the washing machine. For washing floors and kitchen and bathroom surfaces, add up to 50 drops of essential oil to a bucket or bowl of water.
Perfumes and household fragrance
Some essential oils can be applied undiluted to the skin in minute amounts as perfume. Several essential oils are ideal natural perfumes—either on their own or combined with others. Ylang ylang is renowned as a well-balanced fragrance in its own right; others, such as rose, jasmine, neroli, and sandalwood, are well-known traditional perfume ingredients. Such oils can be dabbed on the wrists or behind the ears, either neat or diluted to 5 percent in jojoba or a bland base oil. Always carry out a patch test on the skin before using a new oil as a perfume (here).
Aromatic oils can be used to scent the hair, linen or clothes, paper, ink, potpourris or other items, directly from the bottle. Pure essential oils have a totally different quality to synthetic perfumes, since they are derived from natural sources. Artificially made perfumes do not have the subtle balance of constituents and the therapeutic qualities of real essential oils.
Jasmine is used to scent soaps, toiletries, and perfumes.
Oils for furniture and wood
A few drops of an essential oil such as cedarwood or rosemary can be used to perfume wooden items such as beads or boxes, or added to furniture polishes. Freshly scented oils such as these can also be sprinkled on logs before they are burned on an open fire.
Aromatic sachets and pillows
As well as having a pleasing fragrance, lavender oil makes an excellent insect repellent. Lavender has been used for centuries to protect clothes and linen from moths. It imparts a lovely scent when used in aromatic sachets kept in the linen closet or in drawers. Use dried herbs impregnated with a few drops of oil as the stuffing and seal them in small linen or lace sachets, which can be tied at the top with ribbon. Scented pillows can be made for the bedroom in similar fashion.
LAVENDER
Scented paper and ink
An easy way to scent writing paper is to put a few drops of a chosen essential oil onto a ball of absorbent cotton and store this in a sealed box together with the sheets of paper. After about ten days, the paper will have absorbed a good deal of the fragrance. A few drops of aromatic oil can also be dropped into writing ink. Many household items can be scented in a similar manner.
Potpourris
Essential oils can be used in making potpourris or used to revive them. Making dry potpourris is quick and straightforward. The principles and basic method for making dry potpourris are given, together with a sample recipe for a traditional floral potpourri.
MANY TRADITIONAL DRY potpourri mixes displayed in open ceramic bowls in the bedroom or living room are based on rose petals, often with the addition of lavender flowers. However, a great deal of flexibility and individual creativity can be used in choosing plant material and other ingredients. A fresh citrus blend based on herbs such as lemon balm and lemon-scented geraniums together with dried lemon peel and marigold petals can make a refreshing bathroom blend. Spicy mixtures, which are suitable for the kitchen or for festive occasions, may include ingredients such as lemon or orange peel, cinnamon sticks, vanilla beans, whole cloves and other spices, bay leaves, and sprigs of dried rosemary.
Traditional potpourri recipe
Ingredients
2 cups (25g) dried rose petals
½ cup (6g) dried lavender flowers
½ cup (6g) dried mint leaves
½ tbsp/7.5ml orris root powder
half a nutmeg, grated
20 to 30 drops rose oil
20 to 30 drops lavender oil
decorative rosebuds
small glass mixing bottle
mortar and pestle
small spoon for mixing
glass or ceramic storage jar
decorative bowl
1 Measure out the essential oils and blend them together in a glass bottle. Put on the lid securely and set aside.
2 Grind the grated nutmeg and orris root powder together, using the mortar and pestle. Add half the total quantity of essential oils and mix with a spoon.
3 Place the main ingredients in the storage container and add the remaining essential oils, mixing well.
4 Add the powdered material from the mortar and mix gently, so as not to damage the plant materials. Seal the container and leave to mature for two to six weeks in a dark place.
5 Transfer the potpourri mixture into a decorative bowl or jar and arrange a few tiny rosebuds on top. Later, as the aroma starts to fade, more essential oils can be added to revive the mixture and prolong its life.
Cosmetic aromatherapy aims to rejuvenate and beautify the body through the use of aromatic oils, and generally to improve our outward appearance. Much of this section focuses on the different methods by which essential oils can be used to improve the complexion or to treat specific skin conditions. Beauty, however, is not just skin-deep. The condition of the skin expresses the overall health of an individual. A relaxed attitude, together with a well-balanced diet, enough exercise, and a daily intake of plenty of spring water or herbal teas, all help to keep the system in top condition.
Our outward appearance is certainly kept high on the cultural agenda today, with health and beauty issues attracting a wide audience among the general public. New weight-control programs, fitness plans, and nutritional regimes are emerging all the time. But the emphasis that our culture places on the body and the importance of beauty, like all things, has both a positive and a negative side. On the positive side, it can encourage a sense of well-being, self-confidence, self-awareness, and self-motivation. On the negative side, it can foster addictions, narcissism, or a lack of self-worth by holding up a concept of perfection or beauty that is ultimately unattainable. Taken to the extreme, an over-materialistic attachment to the beauty of the body can lead to a youth-oriented society in which people have an exaggerated fear of growing old.
Essential oils have themselves been linked to the old alchemical tradition of the search for physical immortality—but, as the medieval alchemists discovered for themselves, ultimately it is not possible to transmute base matter into gold. What they did discover through their laborious experimentation was how to perceive an “inner map” for the transformation of the psyche or nature of the soul. In the end, as Paracelsus realized, the material body is only a receptacle or instrument for the transcendental soul.
ROSE PETALS
“Why not take care of this body, which is the receptacle of our soul, so that it may remain as healthy, strong, and perfect as possible …”
PARACELSUS
However, before considering the contribution or limits of an aromatherapeutic approach to rejuvenation, and the value of essential oils in beauty and cosmetic preparations, it may be helpful to take a look at the structure of skin itself and the types of physical problems to which it is exposed.
Women wearing perfume cones on their heads depicted in an Ancient Egyptian wall painting.
THE SKIN IS the largest organ of the human body, consisting of over three million cells. Like the heart or liver, the skin is a very active organ and is responsible for all kinds of bodily processes, including temperature regulation, elimination of metabolic waste, and the manufacture of vitamin D, as well as protecting the body from external invasion.
Massage and dry skin brushing help to improve the circulation and discourage toxic wastes from accumulating in the thigh area
The skin is divided into three main layers:
The subcutaneous or bottom layer—this contains muscles and fatty tissue that help to keep the skin toned and firm.
The dermis or middle layer—this contains sensory nerve endings, blood and lymph vessels, hair follicles, and the sebaceous and sweat glands. This is also the place where new living skin cells are manufactured before emerging on the surface.
The epidermis or top layer, known as the “stratum corneum”—this is the visible surface of the skin, which is composed of flat, essentially dead cells.
The more rapidly the dead surface cells are replaced by new ones from beneath, the softer and smoother the skin looks. A mass of lifeless cells clinging to the surface of the skin creates a tired and dull-looking complexion. On the other hand, an excessive turnover of epidermal cells, due to a dysfunction of skin enzymes, gives rise to psoriasis. Since the natural process of renewal slows down as we age, rejuvenating aromatherapeutic skin products are largely aimed at stimulating rapid cell regeneration in the dermal layer, thus protecting the health of the skin from within.
This diagram shows the three layers of the skin.
Allergic reactions
As the body’s first line of defense from external invasion, the skin is prone to attack from pathological organisms such as bacteria or viruses, as well as from other external dangers through injury or potential allergens. Many common skin complaints are due to an allergic reaction, or hypersensitivity to certain conditions or substances. Allergies are associated with the level of histamine, a protein that is released in response to injury or tissue damage. Histamine causes the capillaries to dilate in the affected area, bringing extra blood to the damaged cells to help in their repair. When fluids seep out of the dilated blood vessels this can also cause local redness, swelling, and irritation. Other actions of histamine include contraction of the bronchi (this is the cause of asthma attacks).
The release of histamine is a normal defense mechanism, but in allergic reaction the level produced becomes excessive. For example, an excess of histamine can quickly build up after insect bites or plant stings, since histamine is also present in their poisons. Excessive amounts of histamine may also be released in response to inhaling pollen, animal hair, or other irritants, as is the case with hay fever.
Why such reactions arise is not known, but there is often a hereditary pattern involved in such conditions, with a tendency for one allergy to lead on to another. Alternatively, there may be a sudden breakdown in the body’s resistance to potential irritants which were previously tolerated. Stress, and psychological or emotional factors, often trigger an attack.
CINNAMON LEAF
Some people have allergic reactions to inhaling animal hair, pollen, or other irritants. This occurs when excessive amounts of histamine are produced in response to such stimulants.
WARNING
Cinnamon leaf oil is an irritant to the skin and thus can only be used in low dilutions, whether used singly or in combination with other oils.
Allergies are said to be on the increase, due to higher stress levels and the general over-exposure to food additives, insecticides, and other synthetic chemicals to which we are subjected on a daily basis. Essential oils such as chamomile, melissa, tea tree, or lavender can be very helpful for many types of allergic skin conditions, although it is vital to carry out a patch test beforehand to check for individual sensitization levels, as described here.
Antihistamines are used in the treatment of allergic reactions, Vitamin C being a good natural example. Pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5) is also valuable in treating allergies, as it builds up the adrenal glands, which produce cortisone, a substance known to have protective qualities against allergies. Infantile eczema usually responds to treatment with gamma linoleic acid (GLA) in the form of evening primrose oil capsules. Allergic skin conditions most commonly affect those with dry or sensitive skins.
GRAPEFRUIT
MELISSA
Fungal infections can cause a form of “diaper rash” in babies.
Fungal infections
Fungal or viral organisms are another common cause of skin irritation. Tinea, for example, which manifests in several forms, all characterized by red, flaky skin and itching, is caused by a microscopic fungal mold. Forms of tinea are athlete’s foot (tinea pedis), ringworm (tinea capitis), dhobi itch (tinea cruris), which affects the groin, especially in hot climates, and tinea barbae, sometimes known as barber’s rash, which affects the face and neck. Candida is another fungus that causes infection, and it thrives in moist, warm conditions. It is often found in the vagina, where it can cause thrush, with irritation, itching, and sometimes severe redness and discomfort. However, thrush also occurs in the mouth, where it erupts in a white speckled rash, and is also seen in some forms of the irritating childhood complaint known as “diaper (nappy) rash.” Like viral infections such as herpes, which in its various forms can cause cold sores, shingles, genital herpes, and chicken pox, fungal infections tend to attack the body when it is run down.
Essential oils that have a powerful fungicidal and antiviral action include tea tree oil, lemon-scented eucalyptus, and cinnamon leaf.
Bacterial infections
Other forms of skin infection are bacterial, and may be caused by a wide range of invading organisms such as types of Streptococci or Staphylococci. Tea tree, cinnamon leaf, clove, rosemary, marjoram, thyme, lemon, oregano, and savory are all effective bactericidal agents—but some of the most powerful antibacterial oils also have high toxicity levels or are skin irritants or skin sensitizers.
A condition such as acne often involves bacterial infection—so an oil such as tea tree, which is mild on the skin yet has powerful antiseptic qualities, is very valuable in such cases. Congested skin conditions such as acne, boils, and blemished skin tend to affect those with oily or greasy complexions, since the pores of the skin are already blocked by sebum, a greasy substance formed around the base of hairs.
EVENING PRIMROSE CAPSULES
APART FROM THEIR role in preventive medicine, and in the treatment of common disorders and skin complaints, essential oils have been utilized for thousands of years purely for their cosmetic potential. The Ancient Egyptians were renowned for their expertise in this field, successfully using aromatic essences and herbs in the embalming process for their preservative qualities. Recent research has confirmed that certain essential oils, such as rose, neroli, lavender, frankincense, and myrrh, can indeed stimulate cellular granulation, which is the first stage of healing after an injury, and keep the skin looking youthful. Many traditional preservative herbs, such as rosemary and sage (but not their essential oils), have also been found to have potent antioxidant properties which prevent the decomposition of organic material.
The pioneering French aromatherapist Marguerite Maury spent many years researching the specific ways in which essential oils could be used to preserve the youth of the skin, and the best ways in which oils could be utilized for their rejuvenating properties on the body and spirit as a whole. She summed up her findings as follows:
“Passionately interested by works dealing with the essential oils, perfumes and aromatics we have discovered their vast possibilities—particularly with regard to the problem of regeneration.”3
According to Mme. Maury, certain essential oils can rejuvenate the skin by regulating the activity of the capillaries and restoring vitality to the tissues—in her own words “they make the flesh more succulent”. She used individually formulated aromatic treatments or prescriptions (IPs) which were specifically adapted to the physical and emotional disposition of her clients in order to bring about a transformation in both their physical health and mental attitude. This aromatic mixture complemented exactly the needs of the patient, and was compared to the negative of a film, with its reversed shadows and light. It was made up using essential oils of different densities. She also found that in the course of a treatment, it was often necessary to modify the mixture as the client’s condition changed.
The Ancient Egyptians used plants for their cosmetics value, and also knew about their powers as preservatives.
MYRRH
Mme. Maury did not use an alcoholic base for her prescription, as would a perfumer, but mixed the essences with a vegetable oil carrier for direct application to the skin. She noted that essential oils were rapidly absorbed in this way, but that different essences passed through the skin at different rates according to their viscosity. Although the heavy, resin-bearing essences often had the greatest influence on the quality of the tissues on a deep cellular level, they were the slowest to be assimilated, while the very light and fluid essences penetrated easily into the extra cellular fluids4 that play a key role in maintaining the body’s state of balance. When preparing aromatic remedies for rejuvenation, it is therefore valuable to incorporate several essences of various densities so as to create a synergy, or, to use the language of perfumery, a perfect accord of top, middle, and base notes.
Further information on the blending of oils, and the principles of perfumery can be found here.
Essential oils for the skin and hair
THERE ARE MANY ESSENTIAL oils that are useful skin-care agents: oils such as sandalwood, geranium, palmarosa, bergamot (which should be bergapten-free), myrrh, and frankincense. These are all very valuable additions to the beauty therapist’s list of ingredients, or an aromatherapist’s collection of massage oils. There are also many essential oils which make excellent conditioning treatments for the hair and scalp due to their pleasing scent, gentle action, and powerful antiseptic properties. These include rosemary, West Indian bay, and sage, which can help to regulate the activity of the sebaceous glands, cleanse the scalp of bacterial infection, and disperse dead skin cells. Lavender oil is also said to smooth knots and tangles and encourage hair growth.
However, there are five essential oils that stand out as being especially valuable for general skin and hair care because of their skin compatibility. They are all mild on the skin (nonirritant, nonphototoxic and generally nonsensitizing), yet they possess powerful medicinal properties, being bactericidal, antiseptic, cytophylactic (healing), or anti-inflammatory, and all have a long history of use as cosmetic aids. These five oils are indispensable for all who wish to take an interest in the overall health and beauty of their skin.
Skin-care oils
For a guide to the properties of essential oils see here and for details of base oils used in skin care see here.
Sources for some of the best oils for the skin and hair. From left to right: palmarosa, rosemary, geranium, and lavender.
Essential oils can be used for hair, scalp, and face in many ways.
Valuable oils for the skin
Rose
Rose has long been used as a favorite perfume ingredient and cosmetic oil. It is one of the most useful skin-care oils because, apart from its rich, feminine scent, it has good wound-healing properties which help in the daily process of skin repair. Rose oil and rose water have been used as ingredients in cosmetics for centuries, and their effects have been well tried and tested. Rose oil can help to keep the skin healthy, lubricated, and elastic, making it less prone to wrinkles. For general skin care, it is suited to all types of complexion, particularly dry, sensitive, and aging or mature skin.
Roses have been cultivated for use in beauty and therapeutic products for centuries.
Lavender
Lavender is perhaps the most versatile skin-care oil of all because, although it has excellent antiseptic properties, it is very mild on the skin. It is also an excellent cicatrizant or wound-healing oil, which promotes tissue regeneration in everyday use and prevents scarring when used to treat damaged or injured skin. It is a valuable oil for all types of skin injury, but also for the treatment of a wide range of specific skin conditions. It is suited to all types of complexion, particularly oily and blemished skin. This gentle oil can safely be used neat if required.
Chamomile
Chamomile oil is a well-known soothing remedy, and particularly well suited to children. Because of its sedative and relaxant properties it is especially good for all types of skin complaints that have a nervous or stress-related element, such as the many types of dermatitis or eczema. It is also the best anti-inflammatory herb. Like rose oil it is good for sensitive skin, but it is especially indicated for all types of swelling, irritation, rashes, red or sore skin, including allergic skin conditions. Both Roman and German chamomile can be used in skin care.
Neroli
Neroli (derived from orange blossom) and the similar petitgrain (from the leaves of the bitter orange tree) are powerful bactericidal and antiseptic agents with excellent cytophylactic properties (encouraging the formation of new skin cells). Like rose and lavender, they have a most beautiful, classic scent, which is uplifting, fresh, and citrus-like. Orange flower water is traditionally used to soften the skin and it also has a gentle toning and astringent action. Neroli, petitgrain, and orange flower water are beneficial for all skin types, including normal or combination skin.
Tea tree
Tea tree is a valuable skin-care agent because it has excellent antiseptic, fungicidal, and antiviral properties, yet is very mild on the skin. It can be used for a wide range of specific skin conditions and for more general disinfectant purposes. In a theoretical comparison between tea tree and other antiseptics used for skin care, tea tree oil came closest to having all the properties of an ideal skin disinfectant.4 Although this oil is generally used medicinally, it is a useful addition to a collection of oils for cosmetic use.
Tea tree oil and its uses
Tea tree oil is particularly indicated for infected skin conditions, including injuries (especially where there is pus or dirt), and for combating fungal diseases such as tinea or candida. It is also excellent for treating problems of viral origin such as cold sores, genital herpes, warts, and veruccas. It is especially recommended for use by those with blemished skin, acne, and greasy complexions.
In massage tea tree is diluted, and usually combined with other oils.
It acts swiftly and effectively against a wide range of bacterial and fungal organisms, has good persistence, and the added benefit of excellent absorption into the skin.
It possesses powerful cleansing properties noted repeatedly in the clinical literature.
It does not irritate the skin, is not poisonous, does not harm tissue cells, and has no significant side effects.
It is not easily contaminated.
It is cosmetically very suitable, being colorless and having a pleasant, clean odor.
It is nearly neutral in pH.
It is notably effective where there is organic detritus (pus).
It can be used to treat viral complaints with success.
Basic skin care
In skin care, most essential oils are used diluted. In the simplest treatments an essential oil is mixed with a suitable base oil (see here for a list of base oils) or with spring water. Basic creams and moisturizers for both cosmetic and medical use can also be made very simply. When making healing ointments, choose the oils you use for their therapeutic value, following the guide to aromatherapy use in the index of essential oils (here) and specific remedies here. For cosmetic use, choose oils by reference to skin type, or by their scent.
Simple healing ointments
Ointments for treating specific skin complaints can be made by blending essential oils with a ready-made nonallergenic cream base, a herbal cream such as calendula cream, or homemade cold cream. Dilute to between 0.5 and 2.5 percent depending on the type of disorder and the area of the body (see here). For a small quantity mix 2 to 3 drops of essential oil to a teaspoonful of cream base in a small container.
Simple Moisturizer
To make an aromatic facial moisturizer mix 8 to 10 drops of an essential oil (according to skin type) with a ready-made hypoallergenic, unscented cream or lotion (3½fl oz/100ml tube or 3½ oz/100g jar). In a glass or ceramic container, mix the essential oils into the cream, using a spoon. This blend can be used therapeutically and cosmetically for the face, neck, and hands, but also for body massage. Store in a sealed container away from light and heat.
MAINTAINING A HEALTHY, youthful-looking skin depends on everyday skin care as well as on general health. Products containing mineral oil are not absorbed into the lower dermal layers where the newly emerging cells require optimum nourishment. Mineral oil is also known to leach fat-soluble vitamins, especially A, D, and E, from the body. Most commercial toners contain alcohol, which has a drying effect on the skin and can cause irritation, as can many other synthetic ingredients found in creams and lotions. Even lanolin, though natural, is heavy, animal-derived and rather unpleasantly scented, and can cause allergic reactions. In contrast, natural vegetable oils, waxes, and creams, with selected essential oils, are ideal cosmetic aids because they are highly penetrative and can reach the small blood capillaries in the deeper dermal layers, thus rejuvenating the skin from within, while gentle flower waters tone without dehydrating the skin, and have a mild bactericidal action.
Many beauticians and body therapists now regularly use essential oils as part of their cosmetic treatments. It is also possible to carry out many effective beauty treatments at home, as part of a regular skin-care routine. Simply by using a selection of vegetable oils and essential oils together with other natural ingredients such as yogurt, clay, honey, oatmeal, and distilled water, it is possible to achieve and preserve a youthful-looking skin.
Every night
Remove grime and make-up with a light vegetable oil (such as coconut, sweet almond, or apricot kernel oil) or a mild cleansing cream (such as the cold cream made as described) with a cotton pad.
Wipe away any excess using a cloth or pad dipped in warm water.
Refresh the face and neck by applying flower water or a toner or cleanser suited to your skin type.
Apply a moisturizing oil or night cream suited to skin type.
Sparingly apply a moisturizing eye oil, cream, or gel (as shown, right). Wheat germ or rosehip seed oil is ideal.
A basic skin-care routine
Different skin types require individual treatment but a good basic skin-care routine, which takes very little time, involves cleaning, toning, and moisturizing every morning and evening, and giving the skin extra-special nourishing, cleansing, and revitalizing treatments once a week. Recipes for basic oils, gels, and creams are given here, recipes for masks and moisturizers are on, and recipes for simple fresheners and toner/cleansers.
Every morning
Cleanse with a light cream or oil, then remove any excess with a cloth or pad and warm water.
Refresh the face and neck with a flower water or toner/cleanser suited to your skin type.
Apply a light moisturizing oil or cream (with sun protection if wished). Let it be absorbed by the skin before applying make-up, if worn.
Sources of ingredients
COCONUT
APRICOT KERNEL
AVOCADO
Oils derived from fruits are nourishing and beneficial to the skin in many ways. Research has shown that they encourage the formation of fresh cells.
Once a week
To remove dead cells and debris from the skin surface, use dry skin brushing, a skin scrub, or an exfoliant.
Give the face a nourishing massage (or receive a professional facial treatment) using rich oils, such as evening primrose, avocado, or borage. Massage with upward strokes.
Give your face a steam treatment or facial sauna as described here. This opens the pores and deep-cleans the skin, to get rid of accumulated grime or dirt as well as detoxifying and bringing fresh blood to the surface.
Apply a mask made from natural ingredients, as shown right. The ingredients of the mask should be chosen according to skin type. For instructions on making a mask and choosing ingredients see here.
BEAUTY, ESPECIALLY SKIN- and hair-care, is central to the practice of aromatherapy. But while receiving a full body massage from a professional aromatherapist or having an aromatic facial in a beauty clinic is certainly a treat, it is not essential for maintaining a clear and healthy complexion. Many aromatic recipes are simple to make, and regular treatment can easily be carried out at home.
Facial oils
Facial oils are made up in the same way as general massage or body oils, except that the base or carrier oil, as well as the essential oils, can be adapted to the type of skin which is to be treated. Suitable carrier oils include avocado, olive, wheat germ, hazelnut, apricot kernel, peach kernel, borage seed, carrot, and evening primrose, as well as the more basic carrier oils such as sweet almond, grapeseed, jojoba, or sunflower oil. Apart from nourishing and toning the skin, facial oils can also be used for facial massage and local self-massage.
Facial oil recipe
Mix two parts of a basic carrier oil and one part of a specific carrier oil suited to the skin type, with 0.5 to 1 percent of an essential oil (or a blend of oils).
| Base Oil | Percentage | Drops |
| 1 tsp/5ml | 0.5–1% | 1 |
| 1 tbsp/15ml | 0.5–1% | 1–3 |
| 1fl oz/25ml | 0.5–1% | 3–5 |
| 2fl oz/50ml | 0.5–1% | 5–10 |
| 3½fl oz/100ml | 0.5–1% | 10–20 |
Tapioca gel recipe
Use 3½fl oz/100ml water to 1½ tsp/7.5ml tapioca. Mix and simmer until the tapioca is dissolved. Strain off the liquid and let it cool to form a transparent gel. Stir in a few drops of essential oil just before it sets.
Facial creams
An aromatic facial cream should moisturize, heal, and nourish the skin, trapping the moisture in, but also letting the skin breathe. To make up a basic cream at home, use the instructions here, based on what is traditionally known as Galen’s cold cream recipe.
Apart from nourishing and toning the skin, facial oils can be used for massage.
GRAPES
AVOCADO
HAZELNUTS
Making your own beauty treatment oils and creams enables you to choose ingredients best suited to your skin, and a fragrance to your liking.
Cold cream recipe
Ingredients
4fl oz/120ml almond oil ½oz/15g beeswax beads or grated wax 2fl oz/50ml rose water 6–10 drops rose essential oil or other essential oil according to skin type
BEESWAX
1 Put the beeswax beads into a toughened glass bowl and pour in the almond oil.
2 Place the bowl in a pan of water over a gentle heat, and mix until the ingredients are melted together.
3 Warm the rose water in a second bowl or jar, and then add to the wax and oil mixture bit by bit, beating all the time.
4 Finally, stir in the essential oil, transfer the mixture to a pot, and put into the refrigerator to set.
Gels
Water-based gels provide a useful, nonoily medium for the application of essential oils, as an alternative to oils and creams when required. A gel can be used to dilute any essential oils for irritating skin conditions such as eczema or athlete’s foot, particularly if the skin is broken or sensitive. Gels are also suitable as a substitute for base or carrier oils for general skin care, especially if the skin is apt to be greasy. The percentage of essential oil to add to the gel base depends on where it will be used and for what purpose. Healing gels may include up to 2.5 percent of an essential oil when applied to the feet, whereas 0.5 percent is enough for application to the face or for general skin-care purposes. A natural soothing and cooling gel can be made with tapioca and water.
Water-based gels are a good means of applying essential oils to treat skin conditions. This is especially useful for oily skin.
Masks
Face masks or packs have many benefits—they can nourish, rejuvenate, stimulate, cleanse, or soothe the skin, and generally improve its texture and quality. Masks can be made from a wide range of natural ingredients, including fruit pulp, oatmeal (for allergic and irritated skin conditions), egg yolk (for all skin types), yogurt, honey, and clay. Fruits such as avocado (for dry skin) or strawberry (for oily skin) are extremely nutritious. Powdered oatmeal is also very nourishing and gives the skin a smooth, silken appearance, and brewer’s yeast is good for all types of skin. Egg yolks are rich in lecithin, an invaluable skin aid. Natural yogurt contains lactic acid, which is good for large-pored, oily, and blemished skin and to balance combination skin. Honey is moisturizing and slightly antiseptic and can be incorporated into masks to soothe, soften, and nourish the skin—especially dry, sensitive, and mature complexions.
Clay is a useful ingredient for making masks, and is suitable for all but very dry skins. An aromatic clay mask is excellent for the treatment of acne and congested skin conditions, and can nourish dry or mature complexions and help to balance combination skin. However, those with dry, sensitive, or mature complexions should not use a clay-based mask more than once a week because they do have an overall drying effect. Masks are best applied after a bath or shower, when the pores are open and the skin is still warm and slightly damp.
Clay cleanses and draws out toxins. It also aids skin regeneration, stimulates the circulation, and soothes inflammation. There are many different kinds of clay available, but green clay is the most versatile, being rich in minerals and a good antiseptic. Fuller’s earth is also a good neutral clay base, which is more readily available.
Simple clay mask
To make a simple mask just add 2 to 3 drops of an essential oil to 2 tbsp/30ml of wet clay paste, and apply to the skin. Leave in place for 10 to 30 minutes while you relax. Rinse off with warm water.
Alternative clay mask
To make a more elaborate mask first mix 2oz/50g green clay powder with 2 tsp/10ml collodial oatmeal and keep in a jar. To make the mask, mix 1 tbsp/15ml of the basic mixture with 1 tbsp/15ml runny honey or plain live yogurt, one egg yolk, 2 to 3 drops of an essential oil suited to your skin type and enough water to give a smooth consistency. Apply to the skin and leave for 10 to 30 minutes—less for dry skin and longer for greasy/blemished skin. Rinse off with warm water. Finish by patting on a floral water.
FLORAL WATER
IT IS EASY to make flower (or floral) waters at home, and they are beneficial for all types of skin. Simply add 10 to 30 drops of essential oil (or a blend) to a 3½fl oz/100ml bottle of spring or distilled water, leave it to stand for up to a month, and then filter the liquid using a coffee filter paper. (A more basic preparation can be made without filtering, but this must be shaken before each use.) Even a few drops of essential oil will impart their scent to this amount of water, making it very lightly fragranced. These delicately scented waters can be used to freshen and hydrate the skin, either dabbed on with absorbent cotton or sprayed from a small plant spray. This can be helpful during pregnancy, when traveling by air, in hot, dry climates, or simply to help counter the drying effects of central heating.
A few drops of essential oil can be added to spring water for the simplest toilet water.
Toner/cleansers
Using a flower water as the base, add a little witch hazel, which increases the overall astringency for a greater toning action. For additional moisturizing and cleansing properties, add up to 25 percent of natural glycerine to the mixture. Flower waters that contain a proportion of witch hazel and glycerine will remove oily residues from the skin as well as acting as an astringent and antiseptic. If no make-up (or very light make-up) is worn, they can be used for simple one-step cleansing and toning.
Refreshing toilet waters
A variety of essential oils can be diluted in a minute proportion with alcohol, cider vinegar, or witch hazel to make toilet waters, eau-de-Cologne, or after-shave lotions. For example, a traditional toilet water called eau-de-Portugal can be made as follows:
Ingredients
20 drops sweet orange 5 drops bergamot 2 drops lemon 2 drops benzoin 1 drop geranium 1 tbsp/15ml of vodka 3½fl oz/100ml spring water
Method
Dissolve the oils in the vodka, then add to the water, shaking well. Leave the mixture to mature for a month at least, then filter and bottle.
ORANGE PEEL
LEMON LEAF
Facial treatment
Used once a week, steaming can help to hydrate the skin, cleanse the pores, and eliminate deep-seated grime and toxins. It is possible to buy a special facial sauna or steamer, but the same result can be achieved by simply filling a basin with boiling water, covering your head with a towel, and letting the steam work for five minutes on your face.
To make the steam treatment even more effective, add to the water 6 to 10 drops of an essential oil (or a blend) suited to your skin type. Soaking in a steaming hot bathtub containing a few drops of aromatic oil can also help clear skin congestion.
After steaming, the skin should be cooled and balanced with a flower water to close the pores. This should be allowed to dry naturally. When the skin is completely dry, a light moisturizer should be applied.
WARNING
Avoid steam treatments if your skin is prone to thread veins. This type of skin reacts adversely to extremes of heat and cold and should be treated gently at all times.
Eau-de-Cologne and toilet waters should be decanted into decorative glass bottles and kept well stoppered.
Chamomile water soothes the skin.
Spray the face with fragrant flower waters to hydrate and freshen the skin.
Rose oil is one of the best skin treatments.
Face scrub or exfoliant
To remove dead cells from the surface of the skin and stimulate the circulation, moisten a little medium-ground oatmeal (or colloidal oatmeal—available from pharmacists) in the palm of your hand using a suitable aromatic flower water, and rub gently all over the face. For dry or sensitive skins, use ground almonds.
OATMEAL
Dry and wet body-brushing
Rub one or two drops of a chosen essential oil into a dry loofah or a natural-bristle brush to make it smell fragrant. Start by rubbing the feet firmly with the brush, then gradually work your way up the body, concentrating on any congested or fatty areas, such as the hips or thighs. Work up the arms, paying special attention to the backs of the upper arms, up the back from the waist, up over the abdomen, and down the front from the shoulders.
Popular in Scandinavia, this technique stimulates the circulation, helps break down fatty deposits, and brings a glow to the skin. Used in combination with other approaches, it is helpful for removing cellulite. For a milder effect, the same technique can also be used in the shower or bath, using a few drops of essential oil on a wet brush, loofah, or sponge.
A loofah or sponge can be used as a body brush, to give an invigorating tingle.
Body-brushing or an oatmeal scrub improves the circulation and acts as an exfoliant to remove dull-looking dead cells.
Aromatic scalp oil preparations
Local massage is very effective for conditions such as hair loss and brittle or dry hair, if it is carried out on a regular basis. Massage also stimulates scalp circulation and nourishes the deeper layers of the skin, bringing more nutrients to the follicles and improving the hair. To make a scalp massage oil, mix 8 tsp/40ml coconut oil and 2 tsp/10ml wheat germ oil with between 10 and 25 drops of essential oil depending on hair and skin type.
Hair conditioner
To make a good hair conditioner to encourage hair growth and improve the quality of the hair structure, mix 10 drops of essential oil with 5 tsp/25ml of slightly warmed jojoba oil, castor oil, or extra virgin olive oil, and rub this thoroughly into the scalp. Cover the hair with a layer of waxed paper, wrap in warm towels, and leave for an hour. Wash out, applying shampoo before the water; otherwise the hair will remain oily. Repeat weekly.
LAVENDER
Massage oil into the scalp to nourish the scalp. Lavender oil is good for dandruff.
Body powders
Aromatic body powders can be made by mixing about 4 tbsp/30g unperfumed talc or cornstarch with 5 to 6 drops essential oils. Seal the mixture in a closed container and let the base absorb the oils for at least 24 hours before use.
Hair tonic
Aromatic hair tonics are especially recommended for oily or thinning hair, because they can help to balance sebum levels (the oil produced at the base of the hair) and promote hair growth. Dissolve about 10 drops of essential oils suited to your hair type in one tablespoon of cider vinegar and add to 3½fl oz/100ml of lavender water. Shake well and massage into the scalp.
Quick scalp rub
A quick method to use for treating the scalp between washes, if required, is to rub about 10 drops of pure tea tree or lavender oil into the scalp using the fingertips. This is beneficial for the treatment of dandruff and as a general conditioner.
Dry shampoo
It is not beneficial to wash the hair too often, as this can strip the hair of its protective acid mantle. When short of time, or between shampoos, simply add a drop of rosemary essential oil, or an oil chosen for its fragrance, to one tablespoon of orris root powder or fuller’s earth. Part the hair in sections and sprinkle the mixture on. Leave for five minutes, then brush out thoroughly.
Aromatic shampoo
Buy a neutral pH shampoo (this is marked on the label) and add your own choice of essential oils to it. Add one or two drops of essential oil to a capful of shampoo at each wash, or add 30 to 50 drops of your chosen essential oil (or a blend) to a 3½fl oz/100ml bottle of shampoo, and shake well before using.
Aromatic rinse
Add a few drops of a suitable aromatherapy oil, such as chamomile, lavender, or rosemary, to the final rinse water together with one tablespoon of cider vinegar. This very effective, yet simple, procedure gives the hair a wonderful shine and maintains the acid mantle of the scalp. It also imparts a delicious fragrance and new vitality to the hair.
Powdered orris root can be used as the basis of an effective dry shampoo.
Fuller’s earth is used for scalp treatment.
WARNING
Some oils, including ylang ylang, cedarwood, cypress, lemon, lime, juniper, mandarin, and pine, are not stable in shampoo or detergent and should therefore not be used.
The psychological effects of fragrance have long been recognized, while herbs have probably been used for their specific effects by so-called “primitive” peoples since the dawn of time. It is certain that in the past natural aromatic substances were often employed successfully for their hallucinogenic, sedative, stimulating, sexually arousing, or anesthetizing effects on the mind, but a proper study of the action of scents, and specifically of essential oils, on the mind and behaviour has never been completed.
Psycho-aromatherapy
Psycho-aromatherapy, which focuses primarily on the psychological potential of essential oils, consists of two separate but interrelated fields—aromatic medicine and perfumery. In psycho-aromatherapy, the physiological effect of specific essential oils on the systems of the body is combined with the individual’s emotional or psychological reaction to their fragrance—with both aspects working together in a psychosomatic unity. It could be said that there are three different dimensions involved:
the physiochemical dimension: the chemical structure of the odor, its quality and concentration or intensity
the physiological dimension: the primary and secondary biological processes that are initiated upon contact with the oil
the psychological dimension: the subjective individual response to an odor—how the individual describes and is affected by it.
“He saw that there was no mood of the mind that had not its counterpart in the sensuous life …”
OSCAR WILDE
Responses to scents vary, but the rose has a perfume that is universally appreciated.
Some fragrances are generally experienced as pleasing, while others are widely perceived as repugnant, yet it is difficult to make hard and fast rules about how any individual will react to a particular smell. This is because the physiological effect of a given odor can be overridden by an individual’s specific emotional associations and psychological preferences. Sometimes even an unpleasant smell can have beneficial results if the associations are positive.
The close connection between the sense of smell and the experience of emotion has often been noted. It is suggested that, physiologically, molecules of odor in some way stimulate the same brain centers that signal the drives toward or away, which underlie almost all human emotion.5
Our sense of smell influences our moods, emotions, and memories. In view of the idiosyncratic quality of smell, it is virtually impossible accurately to assess in advance an individual’s reaction to a particular odor, or to prescribe a fragrance for therapeutic purposes without taking all the following considerations into account:
Strong odors such as frankincense are thought to affect mood and emotion through a physiological effect on the brain.
CARDAMOM
LEMON
biological: the effect the odor is likely to have physiologically on the systems of the body—whether it is stimulating or sedating
archetypal associations: any universal associations the odor may have—the scent of the rose, for example, suggests femininity, love, divinity, and sweetness in all cultures
cultural connotations: certain scents take on a specific meaning according to the environmental, social, and cultural factors involved—the odor of frankincense, for example, will be especially significant in a culture that is Roman Catholic
individual responses: personal associations and preferences due to first-hand experience, which may be either positive or negative.
Since our response to scent is so individualistic, to what extent is it possible to use odors to bring about a predictable response? The writer Michael Stoddard asserts that although there is no odor capable of systematically inducing a given reaction in human beings, it is nevertheless possible that we are still subconsciously manipulated by odors. Since the sexual and social instincts of human beings are no longer controlled by scent-signals as they are in other mammals, odors do not bring about overt changes in human sexual or emotional behavior; rather, they create changes in mood or feeling states, often at a subliminal level. Such changed states, as studies have shown, can subtly color and redirect our thoughts, often without our noticing.6
Masked Venetian ladies buying perfume in “The Perfume Seller” by Pietro Longhi, 1702–1785.
Scents largely influence us unwittingly. This is what endows them with such great psychological potential, for better or for worse. At present, there is a great deal of scientific interest in the potential psychological effects of aromas, and the Fragrance Research Foundation in New York has in recent years coined the term “aromachology” to describe the study and use of natural or synthetic odors in this field. The current commercial trend is also moving toward a rapid increase in the utilization of fragrance as a marketing agent. For example, in a trial test using fragranced shoes, it was shown that customers were attracted to the scented items in preference to nonscented items—even if they did not know why.
For exactly the same reasons that scent can sell shoes, fragrance can also be used as a very powerful therapeutic tool, especially for psychological or psychosomatic complaints. Fragrance has been found to be an ideal candidate for use in relaxation work, because it directly targets the inner mind, and bypasses any critical interference by the verbal, conscious mind. The word “osmotherapy” has been suggested specifically to describe the utilization of scents, both natural and artificial, for therapeutic purposes.7
This approach, however, is quite distinct from psycho-aromatherapy, in that the latter employs only natural fragrances derived from botanical sources, and also combines inhalation with other methods of treatment. In aromatherapy, therapeutic massage forms a large part of the individual’s treatment. Aromatherapy massage is particularly beneficial because it combines inhalation with the healing effects of touch. Aromatic bathing also harmonizes scent with relaxation, as well as promoting absorption of the essential oils through the skin.
Thus, the practice of psycho-aromatherapy, while concentrating on the power of smell, actually embraces a variety of methods and techniques. In this respect it is a truly psychosomatic type of treatment for it operates on the body, mind, and emotions.
GERANIUM
LAVENDER
Scent and stress
The sense of smell is intimately connected with, and influences the functioning of, the central nervous system. Moreover, many illnesses could be said to be rooted in the mind—in a person’s negative outlook or underlying fears. It is well known that mental states such as anxiety, irritation, or anger cause physical changes in the body, including an increase in heart rate, and change in breathing pattern and muscle tone. Stress and mental unrest, which are thought to be at the root of so much of our 20th-century “disease,” eventually produce a degenerative effect on the entire organism.
There is also a reciprocal relationship between stress and scent, in that certain smells, especially those with pheromonal potential (the potential to influence others of their species), can cause stress reactions and vice versa. Animals are particularly sensitive to this phenomenon, but the smell of fear or the smell of disease can sometimes be picked up by humans with a trained nose. Happiness and good health have their characteristic scents, too.
A person’s subconscious attitudes are related to the limbic system, the most primitive part of the brain concerned with basic emotions and mood. Since the body and mind are intrinsically related, a change in the mental or psychological disposition of an individual can have dramatic results on the person’s physical health. And, since the limbic system is especially susceptible to the effects of fragrance, it is possible to heighten or influence a person’s underlying dispositions and attitudes by subjecting him or her to certain scents.
Scents rapidly affect our mood and emotions via the brain.
Mood and fragrance
Some negative emotional states that can be altered by fragrance are:
| Passive | Active |
| Depression Apathy Melancholy Indecision Despair | Anxiety Nervous tension Anger Impatience Panic |
While scents have a chemical effect as they are absorbed by the bloodstream via the nose, they also work at a psychobiological level: for example, when we savor a pleasant fragrance, we take perceptibly deeper and slower breaths, relaxing our respiratory pattern much as we do in meditation. A scent can also serve to distract us, by becoming the focus for our attention, or by inducing positive memories and emotions.8
Aromatherapy massage treatment can take advantage of the fact that the benefits of the massage are reinforced by the scent of the oils used, and that the scent comes to be associated quickly with the beneficial, pleasure-giving and relaxing effects of the treatment. The odors of the oils used thus carry a positive association that makes the recipient more receptive and reinforces the effect of subsequent treatments, by causing positive anticipation. The subtle choice of oils to match a person’s emotional make-up can open the door to helping that person to re-experience pleasure or joy.
This is similar to the use of incense in ritual and religious practices, where the familiar scent of the incense helps to bring about, through repetition as well as in its own right, a receptive and uplifting state of mind.
In a recent research trial, J. R. King found that some fragrances were normally very effective in promoting relaxation through association, despite individual variations. He has utilized a seaside fragrance in his relaxation work, because of its widespread positive associations, although he points out that if it is then used to counteract negative moods in stressful situations, such a fragrance would be best used sparingly and for brief periods, to preserve its value as a conditioned stimulus. Judiciously chosen and employed, however, essential oils, used in conjunction with massage in aromatherapy, can form a counter-vibration to that of the negative mood, and help to restore harmony.
Different attempts have been made to structure the relation between mood and scent. In Essential Oils as Psychotherapeutic Agents, Robert Tisserand proposes eight mood categories, in which essential oil can be used to help counteract or balance extremes of emotion (as illustrated above). The essential oils are highlighted in terms of the mood which they generally evoke. Ylang ylang generally inspires passion and also helps combat anger, and can be used to help frigidity and introversion. Jasmine may be used as a valuable oil for a person who is uninspired, dull, and in need of new ideas.
The benefits of aromatherapy massage treatment are reinforced by the scents of oils and their associations.
There can be a danger in linking particular essential oils too closely with specific emotions, because of the idiosyncratic nature of smell. When using natural aromatics for psychotherapeutic purposes, it is important to assess the personality or temperament of each person and to take his or her odor associations and preferences into account. In choosing fragrances which may correspond to the needs of an individual, personal preferences can often be of value as a therapeutic guide. Much as at times we crave certain foods that can supply nutritional elements which our body is lacking, so we may be emotionally drawn toward particular fragrances that have a balancing effect on our psychic disposition as a whole. Even a disagreeable reaction to a particular scent may give the aromatherapist an indication of a hidden or repressed area of psyche that needs attention.
ROSE WOOD
GALBANEUM
YLANG YLANG
Aromatherapists will frequently observe that their clients are instinctively drawn toward the essential oil that is right for their needs, and that as the client’s emotional state alters, so, often, does an aroma preference.
Scents function at the psychobiological level.
The Tisserand wheel illustrates the links between some common emotional states and specific oils. Personality type is shown in the outer wheel, then the “emotional” quality of the perfume and name of the oil, next the emotional state the oil can act on, and finally the type of action that the oil has.
CHOOSING A PERFUME to suit their mood and personality is one way in which most women—and, increasingly, many men—practice a form of aromatherapy on themselves. We can all observe that choice of perfume, just like color preference, is highly individual, despite prevailing fashions, and moreover that there is a distinct link between personality types and the type of perfume worn.
Why does a person like or dislike a particular scent or choose one perfume rather than another? The relationship between perfume and personality, between the “essence” of a person and the “essence” of a perfume, is an area which has intrigued the perfumery industry for centuries. The correlation between personality and fragrance was initially a supposition based on observation, but research into the psychophysiological factors involved in this field now supports the truth of the theory. Whatever the scientific explanation, the perfume chosen can highlight the personality of the wearer, and a personalized perfume, made as a unique blend for the person alone, can do this even more perfectly. An English physician of the 19th century stated that, in his opinion, a perfume should correspond to the personality, physical, emotional, and mental characteristics of its wearer, and should be as specific to each woman as the sound of her voice.9
Personality types and color and perfume preference
A specific correlation of different scent types with personality types was made by the scientist and perfume expert R.W. Moncrieff. He noted that extroverts were less finely tuned in their odor preferences than introverts, and that they preferred lighter fragrances while introverts tended to be drawn to heavier, oriental scents.
The researchers Mensing and Beck have developed these notions further, showing a link between color and perfume preferences. They produced a series of eight circles, each with eight different overlapping color segments. The colors within each circle were chosen to match the preferences of the eight most common personality types, as shown below.
Formulating an individual blend
A MORE ELABORATE version of Mensing and Beck’s color chart is still used widely in the perfume industry to create new scents and to help target specific markets. It has also been adapted for psycho-aromatherapeutic purposes, where it can be employed to help aromatherapists select an essence from the range of natural aromatics. An introverted individual, for example, is likely to be attracted to oriental oils and incense materials, such as frankincense, patchouli, sandalwood, or galbanum—while an extroverted type will prefer fresh, fruity oils such as bergamot, lemon, or grapefruit.
When we move into the therapeutic use of essences, there are other factors to be considered apart from the esthetic appeal. While in perfumery the esthetic consideration is paramount, in therapeutic work the efficacy of the remedy is of prime importance. When dealing with the therapeutic application of essences, there are two separate dynamics to consider:
a fragrance that corresponds to the physical, emotional, and mental characteristics of the wearer
ingredients that are needed to balance what is absent in the health or personality of the wearer.
The need to choose a fragrance specifically tailored to the requirements of each individual client was the conclusion reached by the aromatherapist Marguerite Maury in her therapeutic work. She found that, of all the aspects of plant oils and their fragrances, “the greatest interest lies in the effect of fragrance on the psychic and mental state of the individual. Powers of perception become clearer and [events] are seen more objectively, and therefore in truer perspective.”10
In devising her individual prescriptions, Mme. Maury assessed the physical, mental, and emotional disposition of each patient so that the remedy perfectly mirrored the patient. There is, for example, the case of the sad and anxious elderly man suffering from stress and insomnia, with a heart and kidney weakness. The individual mixture for this client was made up from rose, sandalwood, lavender, geranium, and benzoin. Benzoin dispels anxiety and interposes “a padded zone between us and events. Rose and sandalwood oil compensate for renal and cardiac deficiencies; lavender and geranium normalize…”11
Since remedies are so allied to the patient’s state, blends evolve and change during the course of treatment in a subtle interaction between oils, blender, and patient.
Making a personal perfume
You will need:
A selection of essential oils with dropper tops Jojoba oil or fractionated coconut oil A small, clean glass bottle with a tight stopper or lid A note pad and pen Blotting paper strips
Before beginning, lay out all the ingredients and materials needed on a clean surface in an odor-free environment. Using the blotting strips to assess the scent is described in detail here.
1 Select the oils that you think will be required to constitute the dominant notes in the blend (see here), including base note, middle note, and top note oils. Measure out the base oils in drops into a small glass bottle containing 1 tsp/5ml jojoba or fractionated coconut oil, following your intuition as to proportions. Record the name and exact quantity of each oil used.
2 Shake the bottle and assess the scent with a blotting paper strip. Add the middle note oils, measuring and recording carefully. Shake the bottle again and assess the effect as before.
3 Add the top notes, measuring and recording as before. Shake well and test.
4 Fine-tune, either by adding more drops of some ingredients, or by incorporating a new element. Add these oils a drop at a time, as one drop can radically affect the overall balance. Test the revised mixture on a new blotter strip.
5 When satisfied, seal the mixing bottle. Store it in a dark place for several weeks to mature. Check again to ensure the scent is rounded and well balanced.
PERFUMERY IS BOTH a science and an art—it requires precision and sensitivity, but above all the ability to translate an intangible emotional experience or idea into a tangible composition.
In blending a perfume, the “rules of composition” have to be obeyed, as in music or painting, but the blender’s creative skills transcend these rules to produce an indefinable blend that stirs the emotions and echoes a mood. A professional perfumer has to have a thorough knowledge of the properties of a huge range of ingredients, and how they interact, but it is nevertheless possible to make successful perfumes for one’s own use, and as gifts for other people, using essential oils.
People generally prefer a many-layered fragrance, since a combination of different aromas tends to be more interesting and intriguing. When natural aromatic oils are combined, the effect is a chemical reaction that breaks up their original molecular structure and they recombine to form entirely new molecules. The final quality of the blend is always an unknown factor. The aim is to make a “bouquet” or a “seamless scent,” where the whole adds up to more than just a sum of its parts. The famous French perfumer Pierre Dhumez declared that the ideal perfume consisted of a basic harmonious blend of just three or four dominant “bodies.” When combined in “inspired” proportions they form a whole in which it is impossible to distinguish one odor from the other. The scent is a perfectly balanced mixture which smells as a separate entity. This basic harmony, once it has been achieved, is enhanced by the addition of tiny amounts of other fragrances.14
Many of the spicy and more exotic essential oils come from the East.
RESIN | BENZOIN
CITRUS | LEMON
FLORAL | LAVENDER
A good perfume has a range of top, middle, and base notes.
In the art of blending, balance is everything. In his book The Art of Perfumery, Charles Piesse was the first to draw an analogy between odors and sounds. To create a perfect “bouquet” of odors, he chose scents that combined to create a harmonious chord and added other scents to act as half-notes.
Modern perfumery still uses Piesse’s terms to describe the art of blending, although in a simplified form. The perfume should be a perfect balance between the top, middle, and base notes. The top notes are immediately apparent—the ones that are light and fresh—and are the most volatile ingredients. Typical top notes include lime, lemon, and bergamot. The middle note lies at the heart of the fragrance, and usually forms the bulk of the blend—typical middle notes are florals such as lavender, rose, or geranium. The base note gives depth to the fragrance and acts as a fixative for the more volatile components—typical base notes include oakmoss, benzoin, or patchouli.
Another simple way of blending oils is to put them into families. Fragrances from the same family tend to mix together well, as well as with those from neighboring families. A small proportion of a scent from an opposed or diverse family can add interest or piquancy to an otherwise dull blend.
NEROLI
PETITGRAIN
A fine perfume is worthy of a fine container.
The art of perfumery is as old as civilization.
THE BIRTH OF modern Western perfumery as we know it today occurred during the 14th century with the discovery of alcoholic extraction techniques. Before that time, perfumes had been based on fatty or oily materials which did not allow the finesse afforded by alcohol or synthetics. Many modern perfumers consider that it is impossible to make a good perfume without the use of synthetics or alcohol. This is because these ingredients can impart lift, radiance, and diffusion to an accord. In their view, only eau-de-Colognes can be made wholly from simple, natural ingredients (known as naturals).
On the other hand, synthetics can have a flat and two-dimensional quality, whereas natural essences are more full-bodied and complex. In addition, many people are sensitive to certain chemicals used in modern perfumes and toiletries, which can cause skin allergies, headaches, or other side effects in sensitive individuals. Some modern perfumes contain well over 100 different ingredients or compounds, but for the purpose of aromatherapy, it is enough to blend as few as three oils to produce an interesting result. This is because pure essential oils, unlike synthetic chemical fragrances used in modern perfumery, already contain many different components, each being made up, in some cases, of hundreds of different constituents, including trace elements. Rose oil, for example, contains over 300 constituents, which is why it is so difficult to imitate it or to construct a “nature identical” rose scent.
Many essential oils are a complex blend of fragrances in their own right. Using this perfumery dial helps in analyzing the individual elements and building up a fragrance profile for a particular oil. The dial is shown marked up for rose oil.
MANDARIN
To gain familiarity with the different essences and to develop your sense of discrimination, test oils individually. Do not smell essential oils directly from the bottle. Always use a strip of blotting paper. Ideally, dilute the oil to 50 percent, using a bland base. Dip the paper into the essence, then study the odor immediately. After a few minutes smell it again, then periodically over several hours. You will see that the most volatile components will rise quickly up the blotting paper and disperse, while the more viscous elements will remain at the tip. Mark the strip clearly at the other end and record your results on the perfumery dial shown below, starting at the top with the floral notes and then moving round the face. For example, if floral notes are absent, put a dot in the center; if predominant, put a dot in the outer circle. Continue around the circle, trying to detect each note in turn, to complete the profile.
Fragrance families and their effects
The following table is based on the Austrian perfumer, Jellinek’s concept of relating perfumes to skin and hair type.
Fresh (blond)
GREEN Reviving (e.g. thyme)
HERBACEOUS Stimulating (e.g. basil)
MEDICINAL Clearing (e.g. eucalyptus)
Soothing (brunette)
SPICY Warming (e.g. nutmeg)
WOODY Appeasing (e.g. sandalwood)
EARTHY Grounding (e.g. vetivert)
Sultry (black)
MUSKY Aphrodisiac (e.g. patchouli)
ORIENTAL Comforting (e.g. benzoin)
HONEY Heady (e.g. ylang ylang)
Exalting (red)
FLORAL Uplifting (e.g. geranium)
FRUITY Enlivening (e.g. petitgrain)
CITRUS Refreshing (e.g. lemon)
Trying to identify or verbalize a particular scent is difficult, yet odor classification is most important for developing scent discrimination and perfecting the art of blending. In modern perfumery work, this discrimination includes knowledge of all the synthetic fragrances now available. Indol, for example, is a natural component of jasmine absolute, now produced chemically. In concentration, it smells strongly camphoraceous, but in minute proportions it adds sweetness and volume to heavy, floral-based accords. In psycho-aromatherapy, however, the groups of aromas are wholly natural in origin, as in original perfumery classifications.
