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INTRODUCTION

With the classic trio of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau as its most iconic symbol, the Bernese Oberland hosts some of the best-known mountains in the Alps. Rising out of lush green meadows they tower above chalets bright with geraniums and petunias; a stark contrast of snow, ice and rock against a kaleidoscope of flower, shrub and pasture; an awesome backdrop to an Alpine wonderland.

Neatly shaved meadows at Mürren in the Lauterbrunnental

Flanking the north slope of the Rhône Valley the chain of the Bernese Alps is aligned roughly east to west, stretching from the Grimsel Pass above the Haslital in the east, to the Col du Pillon below Les Diablerets in the west, thus forming the longest continuous range of mountains in the Alps that does not comprise part of the continental divide. In truth, their more familiar title, the Bernese Oberland, refers to the northern side of the range only; the highlands of canton Bern, but of the Bernese Alps proper, among their numerous summits almost 40 reach above 3600m, while the huge glacial basin on the south side of the Jungfrau gives birth to the Grosser Aletschgletscher, the largest icefield not only in Switzerland, but of all the Alpine regions. Elsewhere lofty waterfalls cascade into gorge-like valleys carved from the mountains by glaciers long since departed, and lakes fill the lower valleys like small inland seas, while more modest tarns lie trapped here and there in hillside scoops to throw the mountains on their heads as a mirror-like bonus to those who wander their trails.

Perhaps it is no surprise that the most visually diverse and dramatic part of the range has been declared a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site – the first in the Alps. The Jungfrau-Aletsch-Bietschhorn site covers an area of 540sq km (208 sq miles), and a number of its footpaths are included in this guide. (See www.jungfraualetsch.ch.)

But the whole of the Oberland region is a paradise for walkers. Footpaths – thousands of kilometres of them – lead enticingly through the valleys, over hillsides and across high passes. Waymarked with the thoroughness and efficiency for which Switzerland is noted they offer sufficient scope and variety to satisfy the dreams of most mountain walkers for a decade or more of holidays, while the resorts of Grindelwald, Wengen, Lauterbrunnen, Mürren, Kandersteg and Adelboden – to name but a few – have their own unique atmosphere and appeal. They are, of course, among the most popular in all Switzerland.

The heart of the region is an arctic wasteland. In a huge basin behind the walls of rock that glower over Grindelwald’s pastures there lies a vast tract of snowfield and glacier jelled into a mass of permanent winter, like some displaced polar ice-cap. It’s a monochrome landscape of stark, yet resounding beauty; a wonderland of white from which stiletto peaks and abrupt massifs emerge as islands of stone in a great ice sea.

Glaciers hang suspended on north-facing slopes too, but by comparison these are just modest streams, the last remaining vestige of those tremendous icefields that once carved and fretted some of the loveliest valleys in all of Europe.

But by far the greater part of the Oberland is covered with flower-rich grasslands; meadows and pastures steeply tilted below broad crests from which you gaze with a sense of wonder at a backdrop of towering mountains, at their snowy crowns with blue-tinged glaciers snaking between them. This visual contrast is one of its major attractions, and the reward for those who take to the footpaths; the winding highways that explore an alpine wonderland.

The Bernese Oberland

Every corner of the range has its own touch of magic. There are the rock climbers’ slabs of the Engelhörner above Rosenlaui, and the multi- summited Wetterhorn which peers down on Grindelwald and stands as a cornerstone, not only of the Oberland, but of mountaineering history. Grindelwald boasts so much of appeal; its glaciers, its tremendous scope for walkers, climbers and skiers, its magnetic views and, of course, the Eiger. But in truth the Eiger is only one of many great peaks here. More attractive still are the Schreckhorn, Finsteraarhorn and the Fiescherhorn, seen to great effect from some of the walks outlined within these pages.

A short walk from Schynige Platte reveals an ever-changing panorama. The Jungfrau invariably dominates (Route 9)

The Jungfraujoch railway is one of the engineering marvels of Switzerland and is accessible from either Grindelwald, Wengen or Lauterbrunnen. But since this volume is primarily intended for walkers, the railway lies outside the scope of this book. Wengen, of course, is not. Set on a natural shelf high above the Lauterbrunnen Valley, it has an exquisite outlook – especially to the Jungfrau, one of the loveliest mountains to be seen anywhere. Among the more popular outings from this resort is the walk to the Wengernalp, from whose safe and gentle pastures one may gaze on avalanches that pour from the Jungfrau almost every day in summer.

Lauterbrunnen lies in its own deeply-cut trench, an amazing place of huge walls and feathery cascades. At the head of its valley, in a more open level of grassland, is the little hamlet of Stechelberg which makes a superb base for a walking holiday, for it has numerous possibilities for exploratory outings to mountain huts, to ‘lost’ tarns, seemingly barren screes and hidden hillside terraces.

On its own hillside terrace on the west side of the Lauterbrunnen Valley, Mürren has a deserved reputation for its stunning mountain vista. Perhaps better-known these days as a skiing centre, it is no less lovely in summer when a splay of footpaths lead to scenes of enchantment. A little lower than Mürren, but a near-neighbour, Gimmelwald shares those scenes, and shares too a cableway to the Schilthorn, whose summit restaurant is known as Piz Gloria since a James Bond movie was shot there.

To the west of Gimmelwald the high pass of the Sefinenfurke, approached in the shadow of the Gspaltenhorn, will take adventurous walkers over the mountains to the charming little hamlet of Griesalp at the head of the Kiental. This is a gentle pastoral valley whose unfussed charm contrasts with the blockbuster tourism of Grindelwald or Lauterbrunnen. With the sub-valley of Spiggengrund nearby it gives plenty of scope for walkers who prefer to wander in solitude.

From the Kiental one peers up at the big snowy mass of the Blüemlisalp whose several 3500m summits overlook the ice-cap of the Petersgrat to the south, and the deep fjord-like bowl that contains the Öeschinensee to the northwest. This lake is pictured on so many calendars, chocolate boxes and jigsaw puzzles that it’s a familiar sight to many long before they actually see it for themselves, and is probably the most visited mountain feature around Kandersteg. Kandersteg draws walkers and climbers alike with its wide choice of outings. There’s so much to explore nearby, including the superb Gasterntal, a peaceful valley whose walls are streaked with waterfalls, and whose meadows are so rich in flowers that it’s sometimes difficult to find the grass.

Running parallel to the Kandertal (the valley of Kandersteg) is the Engstligental, with Adelboden in its upper reaches. The village is set on the hillside, not in the valley bed, looking south to the Wildstrubel, a mountain that Adelboden shares with its neighbour to the west, Lenk.

Lenk’s valley is the Simmental, one of the most important in the Bernese Oberland by virtue of its ease of communications with country to the west over a brace of passes. But Lenk lies near its head in a tranquil landscape, untroubled by through-traffic, unbothered by big mountains. It’s a neat village set in a shallow plain, with a fine western wall of pastureland pitted with limestone hollows, and with easy walkers’ passes that lead across the hills to the Lauenental, which has the Wildhorn at its head.

By comparison with Lauenen, Lenk is a bustling metropolis. For Lauenen is a secretive place that nevertheless deserves to be on the list of all who delight in mountain walking. It has much to commend it; not least a day’s circuit that takes you to a green tarn, a nature reserve, a superb waterfall and a mountain hut in an idyllic setting. There are other outings of value, too, of course, one of which takes you over another gentle pass among woods and meadows, and down to Gsteig, last of the villages tucked under the mountains on the northern side of the chain. Above Gsteig rises the big massif of Les Diablerets which marks the last of canton Bern and the first of canton Vaud. All to the west is French-speaking territory; some fine mountains and charming valleys which long-distance walkers tackling the Alpine Pass Route explore on their way to Montreux. But for the purposes of this guidebook, Col du Pillon which marks the canton border, is the limit of the region under review.

On the south side of the chain, the Bernese Alps slope down to the Rhône Valley. Yet the border of canton Bern follows the crest of the main ridge. All to the south falls into canton Valais (Wallis to German-speaking Swiss), the region that is treated to its own guidebook in the same series: Walking in the Valais.

The Mountains

In the public eye mountaineering in the Oberland has been focussed on the Eiger through an avalanche of publicity matched only, perhaps, by that afforded the Matterhorn. The Eiger’s north wall has been the scene of many epic dramas played out in full view of the telescopes of Kleine Scheidegg, but elsewhere along the chain there are other peaks, other faces, other ridges that offer sport of considerable charm yet without notoriety, and whose features make a colourful background for walkers wandering the magnificent network of footpaths nearby.

The easy path linking Kleine Scheidegg and Männlichen is one of the busiest in the Bernese Alps. The Wetterhorn is clearly seen across Grindelwald’s basin

Meiringen is not a mountaineering centre as such, but it has some fine mountains almost on its doorstep – most of which are known only to climbers. On the approach to the Grosse Scheidegg, by which Grindelwald may be reached, the slabs of the Engelhörner group are laced with routes, while to the south of these shrinking glaciers hang from such peaks as the Wellhorn, Wetterhorn and the Hangendgletscherhorn; the last mentioned also looms over the little-known Urbachtal that flows out to Innertkirchen.

From the Schedelsgrättli, a fine view east shows big Oberland peaks beyond the Üschenental (Route 82)

Grindelwald, with Alpiglen and Kleine Scheidegg on its western slope, has long been the historical base for major climbs on the Eiger. But also accessible from Grindelwald are several mountain huts that lie on the approach to big mountains too far from any village base; huts that make ideal destinations for walkers, lying as they do amid wildly romantic surroundings. The Schreckhorn Hut springs instantly to mind. The walk to it leads alongside glaciers, scrambles up rocks that wall an icefall, and gives the most incredible views of the Fiescherhörner, Agassizhorn and Finsteraarhorn (highest summit in the Bernese Alps at 4274m), not to mention a curious peep at the ‘back’ of the Eiger.

Another hut approach that reveals the inner sanctum of the mountain world, is that which goes from Stechelberg to the Rottal Hut on the southwest flanks of the Jungfrau. Here you virtually rub noses with the Gletscherhorn and Ebnefluh, and have a privileged view of the Breithorn seen in profile. All around mountains rise in an upthrust of rock and ice – the fabled Lauterbrunnen Wall so assiduously explored in the 1930s by the great Münich-based climber, Willo Welzenbach.

Next to the Breithorn stands the Tschingelhorn, with the saddle of Wetterlücke between them. On the far side of the Tschingelhorn nestles the Mutthorn Hut, almost entirely surrounded by ice. With several fine peaks made accessible from it, this hut proves popular with mountaineers in summer and is also visited on one of the walks described here, prior to a crossing of the Petersgrat with descent into the Lötschental in full view of the Gletscherstafel Wall, and the Bietschorn, one of the most difficult mountains hereabouts.

After Grindelwald, Kandersteg is the most important mountaineering centre of the chain. Again, several huts are accessible from the village, and climbs may be had on the various Blüemlisalp peaks as well as on the Balmhorn and Altels which rise to the south at the entrance to the Gasterntal.

Of the easier high summits of the Bernese Oberland, both Wildstrubel and Wildhorn should be mentioned. The Wildstrubel has as one of its major features the large snow-filled basin of the Plaine Morte, from which several tops rise. Climbed from either Kandersteg, Adelboden or Lenk, the Wildstrubel itself consists of a number of summits which barely rise above its southeastern glacier.

West of the Wildhorn massif comes Les Diablerets, a great lump of mountain at 3210m, across whose main summit runs the invisible boundary separating canton Bern from canton Vaud. Les Diablerets dominates a large area and is seen to great effect from the softer, more luxurious hillsides to the north, where tarns gleam in the sunshine, insects seethe among flower-strewn meadows and birds warble in the forests. Walkers’ country, this is, with views of lofty mountain peaks. Far away in the west a glimpse is to be had of the Dents du Midi and the distant snows of Mont Blanc. Big mountains all.

These are indeed big mountains with snow and ice-caked summits, but this book is concerned not with climbing mountains, not with reaching summits, but with wandering in their shadow; spending days of delight exploring valleys, ambling over hillsides clattering with cowbells and crossing remote passes in order to gain fresh valley systems. The Bernese Oberland is not short of prospects.

Getting There

By Air

While details in this section were correct at the time of writing, readers should be aware that information in regard to air travel is particularly vulnerable to change. Apart from complex fare structures, schedules are often rearranged at short notice, new routes introduced and abandoned, while the growth of cut-price, no-frills carriers often results in fledgling airlines being formed, merged, taken over or collapsing with alarming frequency. The best advice, therefore, is to check the current situation with either your local travel agent, the Switzerland Travel Centre (see Appendix A), or on the internet.

Gentle countryside above Adelboden, on the way to the Hahnenmoos Pass on Route 87

Swiss airports to consider are either Basle, Geneva or Zürich, with regular scheduled flights from the UK being operated by major carriers throughout the year. British Airways, EasyJet and SWISS currently dominate the market from a choice of airports; Aer Lingus also flies a regular service from Dublin.

Both Geneva and Zürich airports are fully integrated into the Swiss rail network, being just an escalator ride from a mainline station, while a bus service links Basle airport with the town’s main railway station.

Fly-Rail baggage transfers: Passengers with pre-booked accommodation can take advantage of a unique ‘fly rail baggage’ scheme which enables ‘nothing to declare’ baggage checked-in at the departure airport to be transported directly to the railway station of the chosen resort. There’s no waiting at the arrival airport’s carousel, or hustling your baggage from plane to train. The system is straightforward and convenient, and also works on the homeward journey. However, the scheme is not applicable for EasyJet flights, or for British Airways passengers with ‘E’ tickets.

British Airways:www.britishairways.com currently operates out of London Heathrow, Gatwick, and Manchester.

EasyJet:www.easyjet.com flights from London Gatwick, Stansted, Luton and Liverpool.

SWISS International Airlines:www.swiss.com has scheduled departures from London Heathrow and City, Birmingham, Dublin and Manchester.

Aer Lingus:www.aerlingus.com flies a regular service between Dublin and Zürich.

Online booking agents

www.cheapflights.com – simply feed your requirements into the search engine and await the response.

www.skyscanner.net – an easy-to-use interface.

www.ebookers.com – accommodation and transport to numerous destinations.

Note: Flight tickets can also be arranged through the Switzerland Travel Centre in London (Tel 020 7420 4934, www.switzerlandtravelcentre.co.uk)

Travel by Train

With a combination of Eurostar from London’s St Pancras station to Paris via the Channel Tunnel, and TGV to Lausanne, high-speed rail travel provides a viable (but possibly more expensive) alternative for those who prefer not to fly. Currently Eurostar operates at least 14 trains per day for the 3-hours-plus journey between St Pancras and the Gare du Nord in Paris. There you transfer to the Gare de Lyon for TGV departure to Lausanne; a journey of around 4½hrs. Change at Lausanne for Bern for onward trains to your choice of final destination.

For up-to-date rail information, contact Rail Europe (Tel 08705 848 848 www.raileurope.com). Note that the Switzerland Travel Centre can take reservations for Eurostar, TGV, and Swiss rail travel (Tel 020 7420 4934).

Under 26? Consider purchasing a Billet International de Jeunesse (BIJ), which enables discounts of up to 50% to be made on international rail journeys. Contact Rail Europe, 179 Piccadilly, London W1 (for telephone and email details see above).

Internet train times: To work out your rail journey through Switzerland in advance, log on to www.rail.ch, feed in details of the journey’s start, destination and date of travel, and you will receive all the information you require, including platform numbers where a change of train is needed, plus connecting bus services where appropriate. Also SBB Mobile is a very useful app which covers all public transport information.

Travel by Road

Should you prefer to drive to Switzerland, note that a vignette (sticker) must be purchased and displayed on your vehicle when travelling within the country. This is, in effect, a motorway tax, the current cost of which is CHF40. Valid for multiple entries during the licensed period shown on the sticker, the vignette can be bought at the Swiss border of entry, or in advance from the Switzerland Travel Centre (see Appendix A).

The minimum age for driving in Switzerland is 18, and motorists are advised to obtain a Green Card from their insurers to receive the same insurance protection as in the UK.

Major road passes into the Bernese Alps region are the Susten (open June–November), Grimsel (open June–October), Col du Pillon and the Jaun Pass both of which are open throughout the year. Roads are well-maintained, and an increasing number of tunnels are being created to avoid some of the higher passes. The interlinking motorway system is good, and journey times can be surprisingly low considering the complex topography; but expect delays at peak times. The motorway speed limit is 120kph (75mph); in built-up areas it’s 50kph (31mph), and 80kph (50mph) on other roads unless signed to the contrary.

Public Transport in the Bernese Oberland

Gondolas, chairlifts and cablecars enable walkers to access high paths without effort

Switzerland’s public transport system is second to none, being fully integrated, efficient and punctual, and of great value to the walker. Railways serve many parts of the region. From either Thun or Interlaken, trains run along the south side of the Thunersee and the north shore of the Brienzer See.

Trains go to Meiringen and Innertkirchen in the Haslital; to Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen, and from both these places to Kleine Scheidegg, before tunnelling through the Eiger to emerge on the Jungfraujoch as the highest railway in Europe. Wengen is also reached on the Lauterbrunnen–Kleine Scheidegg line, while on the other side of Lauterbrunnen’s valley, Mürren is fed by cablecar to Grütschalp, followed by a short train ride. Downvalley a funicular climbs steeply from Wilderswil to Schynige Platte for the start of one of the finest walks in the Alps.

Railways also serve Kandersteg via Spiez, then continue through the Lötschberg Tunnel to the Rhône Valley and other parts of the country. Also travelling via Spiez a railway runs the length of the Simmental, serving such places as Oey in the mouth of the Diemtigtal, Zweisimmen and Lenk. Going beyond Zweisimmen on a separate line trains also run to Gstaad, which has rail access with Montreux through the scenic Pays d’Enhaut.

Distinctive yellow buses are seen almost everywhere; here the Grindelwald bus makes its way to the Grosse Scheidegg

Yellow postbuses are seen almost everywhere there is a motorable road. The region covered by this guide is admirably served, with practically every village having a bus route to it – if not a postbus, then a vehicle owned by a private company licensed by the postal service. In village centres the main collecting point will be outside the post office (PTT). In outlying areas railway stations will also have a postbus stop, and there are certain strategic points in some valleys without habitation where passengers may be picked up on request. Look for the PTT Haltestelle sign.

In addition to the network of rail and postbus services, numerous resort villages have cablecars, chairlifts, gondolas etc that the walker can use to his advantage. Where these occur brief details are given in the text.

Various incentives are available that encourage the use of either railways or the postbus services. Purchased in advance from the Switzerland Travel Centre, these are summarised below:

Swiss Pass This entitles the holder to unlimited travel by postbus, rail or lake ferry for periods of 4, 8, 15 and 22 days, or a month. Discounts are also given on most forms of mountain transport.

Swiss Youth Pass Advantages are the same as for holders of the Swiss Pass, but young people under 26 can obtain the Swiss Youth Pass at a 25% discount.

Swiss Flexi Pass Similar to the above, except that validity ranges from 3, 4, 5, 6, or 8 days.

Swiss Half-Fare Card Valid for one month, the card allows unlimited purchase of train, bus, boat and some cablecar tickets at half price.

Swiss Transfer Ticket The STT is useful for visitors planning to stay for a period of one month, and gives one free round-trip to any destination in the country. This can start at any Swiss airport or border, but each leg of the journey must be completed on the same day. Holders of the Swiss Transfer Ticket can also claim discounts on most mountain lift systems.

The Wilderswil-Schynige Platte funicular gives access to one of the finest walks in the Alps (Route 9)

Swiss Card An extended version of the Swiss Transfer Ticket, the Swiss Card gives the holder a 50% discount on all further train, bus or boat journeys.

Swiss Travel System Family Card Children under 16 years of age travel free if accompanied by at least one parent in possession of a Swiss Card, Swiss Pass or Flexi Pass. Non-family members between 6–16 years receive a 50% discount. The Family Card is available free of charge from the Switzerland Travel Centre in London.

Regional Pass Berner Oberland Covering all rail journeys, lake ferries and most bus services, the Regional Pass gives free travel on several mountain lifts and funiculars, and reductions of 25–50% on others. The Pass is available for periods of either 7 or 15 days.

Accommodation

There should be no difficulty in finding suitable accommodation anywhere in the region covered by this book. There are campsites, youth hostels, mountain huts and moderately-priced pensions; a growing number of matratzenlagers that attract individuals as well as groups, and extremely grand hotels for those without wallet restrictions. There are also hundreds of intermediate hotels and gasthofs and, in a number of resorts, chalets or apartments available for short-term rent. Package holidays provide another option.

Official campsites

Campsites exist in many valleys. Some offer rather basic facilities, while others have not only first-class toilet and washing blocks, but also provide laundry and drying rooms. For a detailed list of about 350 campsites in Switzerland, go to www.camping.ch. Please note that off-site camping is prohibited in Switzerland.

Youth Hostels

Several youth hostels (SJH) in the Bernese Oberland provide reasonably priced accommodation. Affiliated to Hostelling International, they are primarily open to all young people holding a valid membership card. Small dormitories and family rooms are generally available. For a current list of hostels in Switzerland, visit www.youthhostel.ch or contact the Schweizer Jugendherbergen, Schaffhauserstr. 14, Postfach, CH–8042 Zürich.

Matratzenlagers

The tiny Berghaus Männdlenen is visited on the Schynige Platte to First walk (Route 9)

Modestly-priced dormitory accommodation is provided in a number of hotels, mountain inns, restaurants, cablecar stations and farms throughout the region. Variously known as matratzenlager, massenlager, mehrbettzimmer or touristenlager, standards vary considerably. Some have traditional two-tier bunk beds, others consist of large communal sleeping quarters with a long line of mattresses (sheet sleeping bags recommended). Almost all have decent washroom facilities including showers. Meals are also provided. Tourist offices can usually provide a list of such places.

Mountain Huts

Huts belonging to the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) are primarily intended as an overnight base for climbers preparing for the ascent of a neighbouring peak, although a number mentioned within this guide are also used by walkers and trekkers. Most are located in spectacular surroundings far from habitation and give a memorable experience for both the first-time and frequent user. Mixed-sex dormitories are the norm (take your own sheet sleeping bag), and in a few, washing facilities are rather primitive. Where a guardian (hut keeper, or warden) is in residence during the summer months, meals and refreshments are usually available. Some huts can be very busy in the high season, and especially at weekends. Should it be your intention to spend a night in one, you’re advised to telephone ahead to make a reservation. Outline details are given throughout the guide, but for more information, log onto the hut’s website, where one exists, and contact details are given.

Since several routes in this guide visit huts, a note on hut etiquette may be useful for first-time users. On arrival remove your boots and change into a pair of special hut shoes (clogs or rubber slippers) which you’ll find on racks in the boot room or porch. Locate the guardian to book sleeping space for the night, and any meals required. Meal times are usually fixed, but a choice of menu is not always available. Tea, coffee, soft drinks, beer and wine are usually on sale. As soon as you’re able, go to your dormitory, make your bed and keep a torch handy as the room may be unlit overnight. Payment is usually made in cash the night before departure.

Should you plan to spend several nights in huts during your holiday, it would be worth buying a reciprocal rights card from the British Mountaineering Council (BMC); 177–179 Burton Road, Manchester M20 2BB (www.thebmc.co.uk) to obtain a discount on overnight fees – but not meals. Membership of other Alpine Clubs also enables you to claim discounted overnight fees.

Holiday Apartments

Giving a degree of freedom and flexibility, self-catering apartments are an option worth considering by families or groups of friends planning to stay in one centre. The majority of resort villages mentioned in this guide have apartments or chalets to rent, usually for a one week minimum.

Hotels and Mountain Inns

A large number and variety of hotels exist throughout the Bernese Oberland, ranging from small family-run establishments to large 4-star buildings that are part of an international hotel chain. In addition, mountain inns and pensions that may not be star-rated, are located in some of the villages as well as more remote outlying districts. A few mountain restaurants also offer good value overnight accommodation in bedrooms or dormitories.

Package Holidays

Holiday packages that provide both accommodation and travel, can offer a useful service at a competitive price for walkers looking for a base in a specific resort. Visit your local travel agent and check the brochures of companies such as Crystal, Inghams, Kuoni, Thomson etc.

Weather

Mountains make their own weather. This is an old adage that is certainly true of the Bernese Oberland. Since the range more or less faces north and is the first of the main mountain areas to collect the weather patterns flooding in across northwest Europe and the low Swiss plains, it attracts a worse record (so far as rain and low cloud are concerned) than most other Alpine regions.

Summer thunderstorms are to be expected when precipitation will almost certainly be in the form of rain below 2000m, and possibly snow above that level – the Jungfraujoch, for example, records an annual precipitation in excess of 4000mm (158 inches). However, when the Fohn winds blow there will be clear skies for several days at a time (these may occur two or three times a month during the summer), but this is usually succeeded by more rain. Despite its generally poor reputation, however, my own experience of wandering among the Oberland hills over several decades, has been much more positive, for I’ve enjoyed more good weather than bad, and a reasonable amount that could be considered indifferent. Hardly a day has occurred when the weather was so foul it was impossible to go walking, so do not allow the possibility of a few days of rain dissuade you from visiting these wonderful mountains. If you go prepared for the worst and hope for the best, you’ll not be disappointed.

Walkers relax below the Grosse Chrinne in a quiet corner away from Grindelwald’s crowds

Average monthly temperatures and precipitation figures (in mm) for Bern, lying north of the Oberland at an altitude of 510m (1673ft) are shown in the box.

The Swiss meteorological service, MeteoSwiss, publishes a 5-day forecast which provides a general view of weather trends. The broadcast daily weather report is, of course, more helpful, and a local weather bulletin is usually posted in the window of tourist offices and mountain guides’ bureaux. For an internet report in English, visit www.meteoswiss.ch/en – this gives a daily forecast as well as a five-day prediction. Current weather conditions throughout Switzerland can be checked on www.MySwitzerland.com.

Notes for Walkers

The majority of walks described in this guide have been chosen with a particular viewpoint, lake, alp hamlet, hut or pass as the destination, while the principal objective is to enjoy a day’s exercise among some of the most uplifting scenery in all the Alps. There’s something here to meet the needs of every walker, at every level of experience and ambition. But in order to gain the most from an active walking holiday in the Bernese Oberland, one needs to be in reasonably good physical condition on arrival.

These mountains are high, and although this is not a climbing guide, walks to a few ‘minor’ summits are included. Yet even without summits, many of the routes described venture to vantage points at elevations of well over 2000m (half as high again as the summit of Britain’s highest mountain), and some of the trails are both steep and exposed. Of course, there are many walks of a more modest nature, but which also enjoy stunning views. Just avoid being over-ambitious for the first few days of the holiday, until you’re acclimatised and better able to appreciate the Alpine scale of the landscape.

Walks have been graded into three numerical categories, with the highest grade reserved for the more challenging routes. This grading system is purely subjective, but is included as a rough guide of what to expect. Moderate walks (Grade 1) should appeal to active members of the family who want reasonably short walks without too many steep sections. The majority of routes are graded 2 or 3, largely as a result of the challenging nature of the district. A full definition of these grades is given at the end of this Introduction.

Throughout the region footpaths are signed with typical Swiss efficiency

Most paths are well maintained, waymarked and signed at junctions with typical Swiss efficiency. Footpath signs generally conform to a national standard, are painted yellow, and bear the names of major landmark destinations such as a pass, lake, hut or village or, indeed, sometimes a name that does not appear on the map, but which refers to a specific trail junction. Estimated times are given in hours (Std:stunden) and minutes (min), while a white plate on some of the signs announces the name and altitude of the immediate locality. Rarely do paths in this book stray onto unpathed territory, but where they do, occasional cairns and/or waymarks act as your guide. In such places it is essential to remain vigilant to avoid becoming lost – especially in poor visibility. If in doubt about the continuing route, return to the last point where you were certain of your whereabouts, and try again. By regular consultation with the map during your walk, it should be possible to keep abreast of your position and anticipate junctions or a change of direction before you reach them.

Waymarks are either painted yellow (the Wanderweg) for easy, mostly valley walks; white-red-white for the higher, more demanding Bergweg trails; while a third type of waymark which indicates an Alpenweg is coloured blue and white. These are reserved for difficult routes which may involve sections of scrambling, via ferrata (fixed rope, metal rungs or ladders), or glacier crossings. Only the most experienced of mountain walkers should attempt these.

For safety’s sake do not walk alone on remote trails, on moraine-bank paths or glaciers. If you prefer to walk in a group but have not made prior arrangements to join an organised walking holiday, the staff at several tourist offices in the region arrange day walks in the company of a qualified leader. These take place throughout the summer months and are sometimes free of charge to guests staying in the organising resort. Enquire at the local tourist office for specific details.

The notice says it all – leave no litter

SAFETY CHECKLIST

 Before setting out on a mountain walk check the weather forecast (see above) and be aware that Alpine areas are subject to rapidly changing conditions. When on a long walk watch for signs of a deterioration in the weather, and be prepared for the worst by having suitable clothing.

 Study route details beforehand, noting any particular difficulties and the amount of time needed to complete the route. Make sure you can be back safely before nightfall.

 On a full-day’s walk carry food (and emergency rations such as chocolate or dried fruit), and at least one litre of liquid per person to avoid dehydration.

 Leave details of your planned route and expected time of return, with a responsible person.

 Be vigilant when crossing wet rocks, scree, snow patches and mountain streams. Should a section of your path be safeguarded with fixed rope or chains, check that they have not worked loose before relying on them.

 Do not stray onto glaciers unless you have experienced companions and the necessary equipment (and know-how) to deal with crevasse rescue. Keep away from icefalls and hanging glaciers.

 Avoid dislodging stones onto others who might be below you.

 Never be reluctant to turn back in the face of deteriorating weather, or if the route appears to be hazardous. In the event of being unable to reach your planned destination, try to send a message.

 Carry map and compass (and GPS if you have one), and know how to use them.

 Always carry some first aid equipment, as well as a whistle and a torch for emergencies. The emergency telephone number for rescue is 117 – try not to use it!

 Make a note of the International Distress Signal printed at the front of this guide: six blasts on a whistle (and flashes with a torch after dark) spaced evenly for one minute, followed by a minute’s pause; then repeat until an answer is received and your position located. The response is three signals followed by a minute’s pause.

 Be insured against accidents (rescue and subsequent medical treatment), for although mountain rescue is highly organised and efficient in Switzerland, it can be extremely expensive for the casualty. (See Appendix A for a list of specialist insurers.)

 Finally, please help keep the mountains and valleys litter-free.

Suggested Equipment List

Experienced mountain walkers will no doubt have their preferences, but the following list is offered as a guide to newcomers to the Alps. Obviously some items will not be needed if you envisage tackling only low valley walks.

Clothing

 Walking boots – must be comfortable, a good fit, have ankle support and plenty of grip in the soles

 Trainers or similar for wear in hotels and villages

 Wind- and water-proof jacket and overtrousers

 Warm hat and sunhat

 Gloves

 Fleece or sweater

 Shirts – 2 or 3 for a fortnight’s holiday

 Warm trousers or slacks (not jeans which can be very cold when wet and take ages to dry)

 Shorts (optional)

 Socks

 Underwear

Miscellaneous

 Rucksack – with waterproof liner and/or cover

 Sheet sleeping bag (for those who intend to sleep in huts or matratzenlagers)

 Bivvy bag – in case of emergencies

 Collapsible umbrella – excellent rain protection; especially useful for spectacle wearers

 Trekking pole(s) – highly recommended

 Headtorch plus spare bulb and battery

 Water bottle – minimum 1 litre capacity

 Sunglasses, suncream/sunblock and lip salve

 First aid kit

 Map and compass (and GPS if available)

 Whistle

 Watch

 Guidebook

 Penknife

 Camera and films (unless digital)

 Altimeter

 Binoculars

A walker on the Regenboldshorn, a short diversion from the Pommernpass on Route 88

Recommended Maps

The series of maps published by the Swiss national survey – Landeskarte der Schweiz (LS) – are works of art. Open any sheet and a picture of the country immediately leaps from the paper, for by shading, contours and colouring, the line of ridge and rock face, the flow of glacier and stream, the curve of an amphitheatre, the narrow cut of a glen, the expanse of a lake or forest on a hillside all announce themselves clearly. They are a source of inspiration for study at home, and a real pleasure to use in the mountains. Check the LS catalogue on www.swisstopo.ch/en/. LS also produce maps for use with a mobile phone. Check details on www.swisstopo.ch/swissmapmobile.

The yellow and orange-covered Wanderkarte series at 1:50,000 carry the letter ‘T’ with their personal identification number; these have major walking routes outlined in red, mountain huts circled, and postbus stops also shown. Although the 1:25,000 series shows greater detail, the 1:50,000 scale should be perfectly adequate for most walkers’ needs here, while the commercial publisher Kümmerly + Frey produces a series of hikers’ maps at a scale of 1:60,000. Printed on waterproof and tear-resistant paper, detail shown is similar to that of the LS Wanderkarte series.

Snowpeaks on the Lauterbrunnental’s headwall are clearly seen from the path to the Rottal Hut (Route 43)

Map suppliers are listed in Appendix A, but note that some tourist authorities produce their own Wanderkarten that show local walking routes, and these are on sale at tourist information offices. Specific sheets are mentioned in the valley details within the guide.

Using this Guide

The layout of this guide follows an east–west convention, beginning with the Haslital and working west from valley to valley as far as Col du Pillon below Les Diablerets. Each valley system is treated as a separate unit, or chapter, for which a locator map is provided. These locator maps are designed to show the general alignment of the district, with major features identified; they indicate the location but not the route of walks described in the text. For that you will need to consult the topographical map recommended for that area.

Within each valley chapter details are given in regard to the various villages or resorts, their access, facilities, tourist information, huts etc, and a number of walks of various grades are then described. At the head of each walk a note is given as to the general location of that route, to make it easier for the reader to find it on the map. All the walks are listed in an index at the back of the book, detailing the grade and length of time each route should take. An explanation of the grading system is found below.

Distances and heights are quoted throughout in kilometres and metres. Details are taken directly from the map where possible, but in attempting to measure the actual distance of each walk, it has been necessary to make an estimation, for with countless zig-zags on many of the routes, it’s impossible to be precise.

Times quoted for each walk are approximations only, and refer to actual walking time and make no allowances for rest stops, consulation with the map or photographic interruptions – such stops can add considerably to the overall time you are out (add 25–50% to times quoted), so bear this in mind when planning your day’s itinerary. Although such times are given as a planning aid they are, of course, entirely subjective, and each walker will have his or her own pace which may or may not coincide with those quoted here. By comparing your times with those given in this guide, you should be able to compensate accordingly.

Abbreviations have been used sparingly, but some have of necessity been adopted. Although most should be fairly obvious, the following list gives clarification.

APR	Alpine Pass Route
CHF	The Swiss Franc (Confederation Helvetia Franc)
hrs	hours
km	kilometres
LS	Landeskarte der Schweiz (Swiss national survey maps)
m	metres
mins	minutes
PTT	Post Office (Post, Telephone & Telegraph)
SAC	Swiss Alpine Club
TGV	Trains à Grande Vitesse

Grading of Walks

Walks described in this guide have been chosen with the express intention of helping you make the most out of a holiday in the Bernese Oberland of Switzerland. Since it is hoped that walkers of all degrees of commitment and experience will find something useful here, a grading system has been used to direct readers to the standard of outing best suited to their individual requirements. As mentioned above, the walks have been graded into three categories, but since the grading of walks is not an exact science, each category will cover a fairly wide spectrum. Inevitably there will be anomolies that may be disputed, but they are offered in good faith and as a rough guide only.

Grade 1 Suitable for family outings. Most cover short distances, or are routed along gently-graded paths with little altitude gain.

Grade 2 These involve moderate walking, mostly on clear footpaths with a reasonable amount of height gain. Walkers should be adequately shod and equipped.

Below the Schilthorn the Grauseeli tarn adds colour to a bowl of scree (Route 57)

Grade 3 More strenuous routes on sometimes rough or unclear paths. These may involve scrambling or the use of ladders, fixed ropes etc. A ‘head for heights’ is called for as many paths are exposed in places. On some Grade 3 routes there will be passes to cross, a summit to reach, or involve glacier travel (individual sections will be marked in the text). In short, true Alpine walking. As there will be steep ascents and descents, and fairly long distances involved, walkers attempting Grade 3 routes need to be physically fit and well-equipped.

INFORMATION AT A GLANCE

Currency The Swiss franc (CHF): 100 centimes/rappen:CHF1. Although Switzerland is not in the Euro zone, some hotels and retail outlets accept payment by Euro. Change will be given in Swiss francs. Major credit cards are accepted almost everywhere (not in mountain huts). Cash machines (ATMs) are common at banks in most resorts.

Formalities Visas are not required by holders of a valid UK passport, or other EU nationals. Visitors from other countries should enquire at their local Swiss Embassy.

Health precautions At the time of writing no vaccinations are required by visitors entering Switzerland, unless they’ve been in an infected area within 14 days of arrival. There are no endemic contagious diseases here, but be aware of the powerful sunlight, and use a broad spectrum suncream (factor 20+) as protection against potentially harmful UV rays that can cause sunburn and lead to skin cancer. Note too that Switzerland, along with much of Central Europe, harbours the Ixodes tick, whose bite causes TBE (tick-borne encephalitis). Risk is seasonal, from March to September, and those who take part in outdoor activities may be vulnerable. An injection of TBE immunoglobulin gives short-term protection; ask your GP for advice. Any medical treatment in Switzerland must be paid for. In the event of hospitalisation or visit to a doctor a deposit must be paid, or proof of health insurance shown. Make sure you have adequate insurance cover that includes personal accident, sickness and rescue. (See Appendix A for a list of specialist insurers.)

International dialling code When phoning to Switzerland from the UK use 0041. To phone the UK from Switzerland, the code is 0044, after which the initial 0 of the area code is ignored. Cashless call boxes are operated by a phonecard (Taxcard) on sale at post offices, newsagents and railway stations for CHF5, CHF10 and CHF20. Many call boxes also accept payment by credit card.

Language spoken In the Bernese Oberland, German (or Schwyzerdütsch) is the regional language, although English is widely understood throughout the area covered by this guide.

Tourist information Switzerland Tourism, 1st Floor, 30 Bedford Street, London WC2E 9ED (Tel freephone 00800 100 200 29 www.switzerlandtravelcentre.co.uk) Destinationen Berner Oberland, c/o Interlaken Tourismus, Höheweg 37, CH–3800 Interlaken (Tel 033 828 37 47 www.berneroberland.ch)

Embassies Swiss Embassy, 16–18 Montagu Place, London W1H 2BQ (Tel 020 7616 600)

Swiss Embassy, 6 Aylesbury Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (Tel 0353 1218 6382/3)

Swiss Embassy, 633 Third Avenue, 30th Floor, New York, NY 10017–6706 (Tel (212) 599 5700)

Swiss Embassy, 154 University Avenue, Suite 601, Toronto ON M5H 3Y9 (Tel (416) 593 5371)