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© Kev Reynolds 2015

First edition 2015

ISBN: 978 1 85284 771 5

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.

For Kirken Sherpa, who makes the impossible possible, and the porters of Nepal – unsung heroes of the Himalaya

Acknowledgements

Frank McCready of Sherpa Expeditions in London gave me my first opportunity to travel to Nepal, so I owe him a huge debt of gratitude, both for that trek and for its consequences. Over the years Kirken Sherpa has taken care of the logistics of numerous Himalayan treks for me. Together we’ve journeyed to some of the more remote regions of Nepal and shared a host of happy memories. He and various members of his staff – among them Amit, Chombe, Dorje, Jetta, Kumar, Mila, Mingma, Netra, Pemba, Phurba and Tashi (and all the unnamed porters) – made possible what at times seemed impossible or at least improbable, while in Mugu, local men Ranga, Chongdi and Sonam added much to the success of our travels. Thanks too to Alan Payne who joined me on several of the earlier treks, to my old friend Bart Jordans who knows the Himalaya better than most, to Dave and Leonie Etherington for leadership and laughter on my first Manaslu Circuit, and to all those whose company added to the joys of trekking in Nepal. They include Maggie Dilley, Martin Fry, Isabelle Lowenthal, Steve Neville, Wendy Payne, John Robertson, Clive and Frances Shelley, Sue Viccars, Janette Whittle and Ralph Wildgans. Jonathan Williams, publisher and friend, has not only been good company in the Himalaya, but agreed to produce this title under the Cicerone imprint. Special thanks to him and all his highly talented team in Milnthorpe for putting this book together, and for their continuing friendship. My editor, Hazel Clarke, has been wonderfully supportive and thoughtful in helping to shape these stories, while designer Clare Crooke created the maps and illustrations with her typical flair – it’s been a joy, as ever, to work with both of them. And last but by no means least, I must thank my wife, Min, for supporting so many of my early treks in Nepal when money was tight, for sharing the dreams and then joining me for some of the best treks of all. To her and all the above, I offer my heartfelt thanks.

Kev Reynolds

Front cover: Everest and Nuptse, the classic trekker’s view from Kala Pattar