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ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
Variously known as the Massif des Écrins, Oisans, Haut Dauphiné or Massif du Pelvoux, the area covered by this guidebook is arguably one of the most visually spectacular in all the Alps. Hung about with glaciers, more than 100 peaks rise to well over 3000m (the Barre des Écrins, which gives its name to the area, is 4102m), while in several valleys rock walls soar to jagged summits too steep to contain either permanent snow or ice. Not surprisingly, for well over 100 years the Massif des Écrins has attracted climbers at the top end of the sport with its wealth of routes – both rock, and snow and ice – of the highest standard.
But as that great Alpine connoisseur R.L.G. Irving once noted: ‘The Dauphiné Alps have things to offer besides glacier and precipice. Some of the pastures that surround the central chaos of high peaks have long been celebrated for their flowers, especially those behind La Grave and around the Col du Lautaret.’
He should also have mentioned the walks, for despite the severity of the mountains and the depths of the valleys there are hundreds of kilometres of well-marked trails that lead to open plateaux sprinkled with tarns, or to valley basins caught in rocky horseshoes of impressive grandeur, to mountain huts or waterfalls or walkers' passes inking valley systems, Alp hamlets, villages and Irving's pastures celebrated for their flowers. No one who enjoys wild mountain scenery, and has the energy and inclination to explore on foot, could possibly grow tired of the Écrins, and this guidebook is a celebration of the savage beauty revealed by way of its footpaths.
The Valleys of the Écrins
Located southeast of Grenoble and unequally split between the départe-ments of Isère and Hautes-Alpes, the Parc National des Écrins is the largest in France, covering an area of 92,000 hectares (227,332 acres), with a peripheral zone nearly twice that size. This is mountain country par excellence, with the highest peaks forming a block at the very heart of the range, and a diverse assortment of valleys surrounding or spreading from it. Beginning in the north, and travelling clockwise around the National Park, the most important of these valleys are as follows.
Vallée de la Romanche
One of the region's main access routes between Grenoble and Briançon via Col du Lautaret journeys through the Vallée de la Romanche along the Park's northern rim. At its western end Bourg d'Oisans makes a good base, for it's conveniently situated close to a junction of valleys (the Vénéon lies to the southeast) and has good public transport connections. However, the best walking opportunities lie further east, in the vicinity of La Grave and Villar d'Arène at the foot of the Lautaret pass, with the Meije bursting out of the valley to the south and an impressive group of high mountains clustered nearby. Trails lead among and below these peaks, visiting remote huts and wild inner glens inhabited by marmot and chamois. The more gentle country north of the Romanche, whilst lying outside the National Park, also has countless walking routes, with glorious views to the big mountains on the far side of the valley. The multi-day Tour de 'Oisans, which follows GR54 on a circuit of the northern and central Écrins, begins and ends in Bourg d'Oisans, travels along that northern hillside and comes down to La Grave before heading southeast across Col d'Arsine to gain Le Casset in the Vallée de la Guisane.
Vallée de la Guisane
Descending from Col du Lautaret to Briançon (claimed to be Europe's highest town), the Guisane skirts the northeastern ledge of the National Park and gives only a few distant hints of its glacial heartland. The upper part of the valley is bounded by some rugged rock scenery, the middle section is more broad and open, while in the lower third the resort of Serre Chevalier (which encompasses several small resorts) is the largest winter sports complex in the Southern Alps. Created in 1941 it is now equipped with something like 70 lifts which edge close to the Park's eastern border, but these lifts are happily restricted from straying over it. In summer, when there is no skiable snow, the Serre-Chevalier téléphérique, which rises to 2491m, can be used to gain access to a series of high trails that follow ridge crests or descend into neighbouring valleys. Downstream from the Serre Chevalier resort Briançon, on the other hand, is an historic attraction situated at a confluence of rivers in the valley of the Durance. This valley flows south and remains some distance east of the Parc National des Écrins. But at the village of L'Argentière-la-Bessée a road breaks away northwest along the Vallée de la Vallouise leading to the rugged heart of the region.
The upper reaches of the Vallée de la Romanche (Route 17)
Le Villard above Vallouise, in the Vallée d'Entraigues (Routes 30–31)
Vallée de la Vallouise
There are two main centres here: the little market town of Vallouise, and Ailefroide, which is one of the two major climbing centres of the Écrins region (the other being La Bérarde). Though both lie at a junction of valleys, Vallouise is open and sunny, while Ailefroide is confined between huge rock walls, and with forest crowding its outskirts. At the head of the Vallée de la Vallouise there's a broad open plain known as the Pré de Madame Carle. The rubble-strewn Glacier Noir drains down towards it from the west, but above big glacial slabs in the north the tumbling Glacier Blanc gleams in the sunlight. Both entice with prospects of scenically exciting walks among the highest of the high peaks. Despite Ailefroide's reputation as a major climbing centre, it also makes a near-perfect base for a walking holiday, and this guidebook gives a number of first-rate outings from it. As for Vallouise, this has the tributary Vallée d'Entraigues stretching off to the west which offers good walking too, as well as footpaths in the main valley and in that of Chambran to the north.
Looking south to Vallonpierre from the head of Valgaudemar (Routes 40–41)
Valgaudemar
On the western side of the Parc National two main valleys cut into the range with access from the N85 Grenoble-Gap road. The southernmost of these is the Valgaudemar. La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar is the modest base here, located just 9km from the roadhead. The huge rock peak of L'Olan rises north of the village, and there's a narrow glen cutting back to the south. At the head of the valley a mountain cirque provides plenty of scope for walks to huts, tarns and viewpoints, and accommodation is 18 supplied in this upper valley by the streamside Refuge du Clot, as well as the large Chalet-Hôtel du Gioberney at the roadhead.
Valjouffrey
Included in this guide in the Valgaudemar chapter, this northernmost valley on the western side of the Écrins park is watered by the Bonne river which drains west of L'Olan. Road access is from La Mure on N85, with a modest amount of accommodation to be had at Valbonnais in the lower valley, at Entraigues at the confluence of the Malsanne and Bonne, and, for the trekker tackling the Tour de l'Oisans, at Le Désert. Upstream beyond Le Désert the valley has been carved and shaped by a long-departed glacier; waterfalls spray down the steep walls, and nestling at the foot of L'Olan is the Fond-Turbat refuge. Below Le Désert at La Chapelle-en-Valjouffrey, the tributary glen of Valsenestre carves northeastward through the Gorges de Béranger, with a minor road ending at Valsenestre hamlet – another staging post on the Tour de l'Oisans. Then, at Entraigues in the mouth of the Malsanne valley, the D526 offers a rather tortuous crosscountry road route to Bourg d'Oisans via Col d'Ornon.
Lac, Refuge and Roche de la Muzelle (Routes 50, 53, 54)
The Etançons valley below Refuge du Châtelleret (Route 66)
Vallée du Vénéon
The final entry in our summary of valleys is the Vénéon, which rises in the glacial heartland of the massif and flows roughly northwest out to the Romanche a short distance upstream of Bourg d'Oisans. The Vénéon is a gem of a valley fed by a number of attractive tributary glens, all of which are well worth exploring on foot. An infrequent daily bus service runs from Bourg to La Bérarde, the final village situated at the roadhead where the upper Vénéon is joined by the Etançons torrent – the latter draining glaciers on the south side of La Meije. Within the valley there are several small centres, but no real resorts. Naming from west to east these are: Venosc, Bourg d'Arud, St-Christophe-en-Oisans and La Bérarde, the ‘Chamonix’ (in terms of mountaineering appeal) of the Écrins.
The Parc National des Écrins
In 1913 a protected zone was centred on La Bérarde, but another 60 years passed before the Parc National des Écrins became the fifth, but largest, such National Park in France. Vauban had once described the region as having ‘mountains reaching for the sky, and valleys sinking to incredible depths’. And it is just such a landscape that is characteristic of the Park.
In the north and west the mountains consist of crystalline and meta-morphic rocks (granite and gneiss), while sedimentary rocks (limestone, schist and clay) dominate in the south and east. There are a surprisingly large number of glaciers amounting to some 12,000 hectares, for the Dauphiné Alps is the southernmost region of the Alpine chain to retain ice sheets of any size, and it is largely due to the powerful rivers and waterfalls flowing from them that such deep valleys and gorges have been cut.
The extraordinary difference in elevation between valley bed and mountain summit, ranging from 800m to 4000m, coupled with oceanic influences in the north and west, and Mediterranean influences in the south, are responsible for the wonderfully rich and diverse flora of the Écrins. Some 1800 species have been identified within the Park (that's half of all French flora); 800 of these are protected, while around 40 are considered either rare or endangered, and 35 are endemic to the area.
As for wildlife, the Park lists 64 species of mammal, including typical Alpine favourites such as ibex, chamois and marmot. The ibex was reintroduced to the Écrins as recently as 1990–95, but the chamois is well-established and the population now numbers around 12,000. There are 210 species of nesting birds and the largest concentration of golden eagles in France, while the bearded vulture is a regular visitor.
Écrins National Park sign
In keeping with its status as an area of conservation and environmental protection, the National Park has a list of regulations which the visitor should observe. These are summarised above.
PARK REGULATIONS
Dogs are not allowed, even on a lead. Respect wildlife and livestock.
Do not pick or take samples of plants, rocks and fossils, or animals.
Firearms are banned; all wildlife within the National Park is protected.
Leave no litter. Keep the countryside clean.
Do not light fires.
Avoid making unnecessary noise.
Off-site camping is restricted to an overnight pitch between 7pm and 9am, at least one hour's walk from a road or the Park boundary.
Motor vehicles and bicycles are only allowed on authorised roads.
Getting There
Assuming one approaches from the north and west, Grenoble is the key to entry to the whole region no matter what the method of travel.
By Air
Currently both Ryanair (from London Stansted) and Easyjet (from Birmingham, Bournemouth, Bristol, London Gatwick and Stansted) have flights to Grenoble-Saint-Geoirs. Fly-drive arrangements are available via airlines and tour operators, but note that the minimum age for hiring a car in France varies from 21 to 25 years, depending on the hire company. Some companies levy a surcharge on drivers below 25 years of age.
For onward travel from Grenoble airport, a 30min transfer by bus brings you to the Gare Routière from where buses continue into the Écrins region. For further bus information visit www.transisere.fr
By Train
For anyone travelling direct from the UK the train is a convenient option. Eurostar takes 3hrs for the journey from London St Pancras to Paris (Gare du Nord) via the Channel Tunnel, and the high-speed (300km/h) TGV service connects Paris (Gare de Lyon) with Grenoble in 2hrs 55mins. There are also main-line services from Paris to Briançon. For up-to-date rail information get in touch with Rail Europe ( 08705 848 848 www.raileurope.com)
Local Bus Information
Local buses operate out of Grenoble (the Gare routière is conveniently adjacent to the main-line railway station) with the following destinations: Gap, La Mure, Bourg d'Oisans, Briançon, and so on. Connecting VFD buses for several other destinations such as La Bérarde and Alpe d'Huez have Bourg d'Oisans as their terminus (www.transisere.fr).
Grenoble-Bourg d'Oisans: VFD Gare routière de Bourg d'Oisans ( 04 76 80 00 90)
Grenoble-Briançon/Grenoble-Gap: VFD Gare routière de Grenoble ( 04 76 87 90 31) Grenoble-Gap/Gap-Briançon: Société des Cars Alpes Littoral (SCAL), 1 cours Ladoucette, 05000 GAP ( 04 92 51 06 05)
Please note that services are greatly reduced outside the main summer holiday period – mid-July to the beginning of September.
By Car
The journey from the Channel ports to Grenoble is straightforward by autoroute via Paris, but note that these are toll roads and are therefore reasonably expensive to use. The road distance from Calais to Grenoble is about 830km. In France the minimum driving age is 18. Nationals of European Union countries need a valid driving licence, while those from non-EU countries require an international driving licence. The vehicle's log book should be carried, and insurance cover is compulsory. Front-seat passengers must wear seat belts, and children below the age of 10 are restricted to the back seat.
Accommodation
A variety of accommodation is on offer throughout the region, from campsites to all but the most elegant of hotels. Outline details are given within the main body of this guide, but for specific information you are advised to contact the local tourist offices who can usually supply printed lists of hotels, gîtes and campsites, and provide an idea of prices. (Details of tourist offices are given at the start of each valley section.)
Official Campsites
Campsites of varying sizes are located in most of the main valleys – but not in all of them. Every one used personally during research had good, clean and efficient facilities. However, as with other forms of accommodation, beware that they can be very busy during the main summer holiday period, which in France begins on 14 July and continues until late August.
Gîtes d'étape
Gîtes may be described as privately-owned youth hostels predominantly used by walkers. Although some have small bedrooms, most sleeping accommodation is in dormitories (take your own sheet sleeping bag). Bathrooms have showers, and there's a communal kitchen where guests prepare their own meals, but a number of gîte owners serve evening meals and breakfasts to supplement their income. There are more than 60 gîtes d'étape in the Écrins region.
Mountain Huts (Refuges)
Throughout the Écrins, mountain huts are often completely full during the French summer holiday period, and it is essential to phone ahead if you plan to use one for overnight lodging. There are many such huts within the National Park, and a number of routes in this guide lead to them, for almost every one has been built in an idyllic location. Sleeping arrangements are invariably in dormitories with large communal bunks with up to 30 places. There is no segregation of the sexes, and washroom facilities are usually quite basic and often without hot water. The gardien (where one is in residence) will normally provide cooked meals and sell bottled drinks, coffee and tea. Snacks and drinks are usually on sale during the day for passing walkers. Details of individual huts within the region covered by this guide are given in the appropriate sections.
Refuge de la Selle (Route 56)
Hotels
In the region covered by this guide, hotels are mostly small and modestly priced with a limited number of rooms. Although there are no major resorts, a number of unpretentious villages boast a one- or two-star hotel offering accommodation with a distinctly rural mountain atmosphere.
Weather
As with all Alpine areas, weather conditions here are changeable and walkers should be prepared for all contingencies. So far as walking is concerned, summer is limited to the period July to mid-September, but while daytime temperatures can be very pleasant during settled conditions, perhaps ranging from 25°C to 28°C, heavy rain and even snowfall can occur in midsummer. Even in high summer nights can be cool. Thunderstorms can occur during unsettled periods, and these can be sudden and violent. September is often marked by more settled weather than July or August, but with lower temperatures.
Always check the weather forecast (metéo) before setting out on a walk that will take you high in the mountains. The local tourist office or Bureau des Guides usually display a printed forecast covering a two- or three-day period. Alternatively, telephone 08 92 68 02 38.
Remember that what is a gentle breeze in the valley may be a piercing wind just 300m up the hillside, and as you gain height so the weather intensifies. Should a passing cloud hide the sun, the temperature can drop alarmingly. As a general guide, the temperature drops about 6°C for every 1000m of ascent.
Violent gusts of wind often indicate that a thunder storm is imminent. Lightning can be deadly and in the mountains the electrical atmosphere preceding a strike sometimes sounds like a swarm of bees. If there's any possibility of a storm, avoid ridges, metallic fixtures and prominent features that stand above open ground. Do not shelter beneath overhanging rocks or trees, and should you be caught in high open country discard meta objects (trekking pole or ice axe), and squat or curl up on your rucksack keeping hands and bare parts of your body away from the rock surface.
St-Christophe-en-Oisans in the Vallée du Vénéon (Routes 56–57)
Notes for Walkers
Walks described in this guide have been chosen with a particular hut, lake, pass or viewpoint being the goal, while the principal objective of each outing is to enjoy a day's (or half-day's) exercise among some of the finest mountain scenery in France. But to gain the most from such a holiday one needs to be in reasonably good physical condition, so do try to get fit before travelling to the Alps. Then you will not be daunted by a steep and seemingly endless uphill trail, and the first day of the holiday can be as enjoyable as the last.
Avoid being over-ambitious for the first few days, especially if you've never walked in the Alps before. It's better to increase height gain and distance steadily as you grow accustomed to the scale of these mountains – which initially may seem quite daunting. A range of walks has been chosen, so there should be something for everyone. They fall into three categories, graded 1–3, with the highest grade denoting the more challenging routes. However, this grading system is purely subjective, and newcomers to the Alps (particularly at the start of a holiday) might consider a Grade 2 outing serious enough. There are moderate walks (Grade 1) that would appeal to all active members of a family, but the majority of routes described are graded 2 or 3, largely resulting from the severity of the landscape.
The approach to Refuge du Sélé involves several scrambling sections (Route 35)
Within the Parc National des Écrins most paths are well maintained and waymarking adequate to good, but some of the more adventurous routes cross terrain where trails are non-existent beyond a vague line of cairns. In such places it is essential to remain alert and observant in order to avoid becoming lost – especially in poor visibility. If in doubt about the onward route, return to the last point where you were certain of your whereabouts and try again. If you consult the map frequently during the walk you should be able to keep abreast of your position and anticipate junctions before reaching them.
CHECKLIST
Check the weather forecast before setting out (see above). Be aware that all Alpine areas are subject to rapidly changing conditions, and throughout the day watch for tell-tale signs and be prepared with appropriate clothing.
When starting out on a full-day's walk carry food (including emergency rations such as chocolate or dried fruit) and at least 1 litre of liquid per person to avoid dehydration.
Leave details of your planned route and expected time of return with a responsible person, or (if you have your own transport) leave a note with such details visible in your car.
Be vigilant when crossing wet rocks, scree, snow patches and mountain streams. If you come to a section of path safeguarded by fixed ropes or chains, check that they have not worked loose before relying on them.
Do not stray onto glaciers unless you have experience, companions and the necessary equipment to deal with crevasse rescue. Keep away from icefalls and hanging glaciers.
Avoid dislodging stones onto others who might be below you.
Never be reluctant to turn back in face of deteriorating weather or if the route becomes hazardous. In the event of your being unable to reach the place where you're expected, try to send a message.
Carry map and compass with you – and know how to use them.
Always carry some first aid equipment, as well as a whistle and torch for use in emergencies. The emergency telephone number for mountain rescue (secours en montagne) is: 04 92 22 22 22. Try not to use it!
Make a note of the International Distress Signal, which is six blasts on a whistle (and flashes with a torch after dark) followed by a minute's silence. Then repeat until an answer is received. The reply is three signals followed by a minute's pause.
Be insured against accidents (rescue and subsequent medical treatment), for although mountain rescue here is highly efficient it can be very expensive for the casualty. (See Appendix C for addresses of specialist mountain insurance companies.)
And finally, please help to keep the mountains and their valleys litter-free. Remember to carry a spare plastic bag in your rucksack for any leftover cans, bottles and food wrappers, and dispose of them properly in your valley base.
Suggested Equipment List
Experienced hill walkers will no doubt have their own preferences, but for newcomers to the Alps the following list is offered as a guide. Some of these items will not be needed if you only envisage tackling low valley walks.
Clothing
Walking boots – must be comfortable, well fitting, with ankle support and plenty of grip in the soles
Trainers or similar for wear in huts, hotels and villages
Wind- and waterproof jacket and overtrousers
Umbrella
Woollen hat and sunhat
Gloves
Fleece or woollen sweater
Shirts – 2 or 3 for a fortnight's holiday
Warm long trousers, slacks or breeches – not jeans which are very cold when wet
Shorts (optional)
Walking socks
Underwear
Miscellaneous
Rucksack – with waterproof liner and/or cover
Sheet sleeping bag (if you plan to stay in huts)
Bivvy bag – in case of emergencies
Trekking pole(s) – very useful on steep descents, scree, snow, stream crossings, etc
Headtorch plus spare batteries and bulbs
Water bottle (minimum 1 litre)
Sunglasses, suncream/sunblock and lip salve
First aid kit
Map and compass
Whistle
Watch
Guidebook
Penknife
Camera and films
Binoculars
Altimeter and GPS
Dôme de Neige des Écrins, from Tête de la Maye (Route 64)
Recommended Maps
All the walks included in this guide may be followed using just one map: Carte de Randonnées Écrins published by Rando Éditions at a scale of 1:50,000 (1cm = 500m or roughly 1¼in = 1 mile). This may be obtained from major map stockists in the UK (addresses given in Appendix C), and is available in most valley centres within the Écrins region.
This map is based on the official IGN survey (Institut Géographique National – equivalent to the Ordnance Survey in the UK), with the addition of major walking routes highlighted in red, and mountain huts and gîtes d'étape made prominent. The cartography is very good, and the amount of detail shown is perfectly adequate for the walker's needs. Altitudes and distances quoted in this guidebook are generally based on this particular sheet (2005 edition), although where the map is at variance with either mountaineering convention (in respect of the height of some summits) or the altitude of certain huts, I have made a judgement based on either conventional prejudice or the reading on my own altimeter during research.
For walkers who prefer the greater detail on 1:25,000 scale maps (1cm = 250m or roughly 2½in = 1 mile), the IGN publishes no less than six sheets to cover the same area. Headed TOP 25, these are: 3535 OT Névache; 3536 OT Briançon; 3435 ET Valloire; 3436 ET Meije-Pelvoux; 3335 ET Le Bourg d'Oisans-L'Alpe d'Huez; and 3336 ET Les 2 Alpes.
Note: IGN TOP 25 maps are being allocated a UTM-WGS 84 grid to enable the position given by a GPS receiver to be easily localised on the map.
Using the Guide
This guide follows a clockwise circuit round the Parc National des Écrins from valley to valley. Each major valley system is treated within one section (or chapter) in which a number of walks of various grades are described. The only exception is Valjouffrey, which is described in the Valgaudemar chapter. All the walks are listed in the index at the end of the book. As mentioned above, the grading system ranges from 1 to 3, with the lowest number referring to the easiest and/or shortest walks, Grade 2 for moderate and medium length outings, and Grade 3 the longer and more demanding routes. However, this simplistic system will inevitably have variations and (no doubt) a few anomalies which may be disputed by users of this book, but they are offered in good faith and as a rough guide only.
Distances and heights are quoted throughout in kilometres and metres. (For metric conversions see Appendix D.) As mentioned above, these details are mostly taken from the map, but in attempting to measure the actual distance of each walk it was necessary to make the nearest estimation I could – with countless zigzags on many routes, it's impossible to be precise.
Wild country below Refuge des Bans (Route 26)
The time given for each route refers only to actual walking time and makes no allowances for rest stops or interruptions for photography – such stops can add considerably to the overall period of activity, so bear this in mind when planning your day. Times are, of course, approximations only, and each walker will have his own pace which may or may not agree with that quoted. By comparing your times with those given here, you should soon have a reasonable idea of how much we differ and compensate accordingly.
A number of the day routes described follow individual stages of the long-distance GR54 (Tour de 'Oisans). See Appendix A for more information on the GR54 in relation to the routes in this book.
General Information
Currency and Exchange
Currency is the Euro (100 cents = €1). If you are planning to use mountain huts remember to take plenty of cash as credit cards are not generally accepted in refuges.
Banks are open from 9am until noon, and between 2pm and 4pm Monday (or Tuesday) to Friday, and closed either Saturday or Monday. On the day before a bank holiday, banks usually close early. Most banks have an ATM (cash machine) that is accessible 24hrs a day.
Banks, post offices and official exchange offices will change foreign currency and traveller's cheques. Most major credit cards (Visa, Barclaycard, Carte Bleue, Mastercard/Access and so on) are widely accepted in shops, hotels and restaurants. Should the sign for your own credit card not be on display, make sure you check for acceptability before buying.
Health Care
In addition to having insurance cover for accidents, rescue and health care, British nationals (and those of other EU countries) are advised to carry a valid European health insurance card to obtain free, or reduced-cost, emergency state-provided medical treatment whilst in France. Apply to your local post office for an application form. Should you fall ill or have an accident during a visit to the Écrins, there are hospitals in Grenoble and Briançon.
Passports and Visas
British visitors will need a full, valid passport to visit France, while other EU nationals use only a Nationa identity Card. Visas are not required. Visitors from Australia, Canada and the USA (among others) need a visa only if they plan to stay in France longer than three months.
Post and Telephone Services
Main post offices (La Poste, or PTT) are open from Monday to Friday from 8am to 7pm, and on Saturday mornings from 8am to noon. Smaller branch post offices are often closed at lunchtime between noon and 2pm, and usually close for the day at 4pm. Postage stamps may be bought from newsagents, tobacconists (tabac) and shops that sell postcards.
Refuge de la Lavey (Route 57)
Most public telephone kiosks take phone cards (cartes téléphonique) which are on sale at post offices, tobacconists and newsagents. On the reverse of each phone card a selection of access numbers is listed. Dial the number appropriate for the type of telephone being used (fixed line; mobile; public kiosk; or METEOR phone kiosk). You will then be given a number to press for the language required, and a recorded voice then instructs you to dial the PIN number of your specific card. You will be told how many units/minutes are available for your call, then instructed to dial the number required. Relax – the system is not as complicated as it may seem. Calls can be received at phone boxes showing a blue bell sign.
The international access code from France is 00. Individual country codes are usually displayed in telephone kiosks. The code for the UK is 44; Eire is 353; the USA is 1.
Abbreviations
Abbreviations have been used sparingly in this guide, although some have been adopted by necessity. While most should be clearly understood, the following list is given for clarification:
| ATM | Cash machine (Automated Teller Machine) |
| BMC | British Mountaineering Council |
| CAF | Club Alpin Français |
| GR | Grande Randonnées |
| hrs | hours |
| IGN | Institut Géographique National |
| km | kilometres |
| m | metres |
| mins | minutes |
| PTT | Post Office (Post, Telephone and Telegraph) |
| STD | Societe des Touristes du Dauphiné |
| TGV | Trains á Grande Vitesse (the French super-fast train) |
Finally, all information contained in this guide is given in good faith, and routes described offered in the hope that readers will gain as much enjoyment from walking in and around the Écrins National Park as I have during the weeks of research. But I am fully aware that from time to time changes occur to the landscape, huts, and villages through natural causes as well as by the hand of man. It may be that you will discover paths that have been rerouted, or landscape features altered to such an extent that some of the descriptions are no longer valid. Should this be the case, I first of all hope that such changes in no way spoil your holiday, and secondly would very much appreciate a note giving details in order that I can check them out for any future edition of the guide. A postcard sent to me c/o Cicerone Press, 2 Police Square, Milnthorpe, Cumbria LA7 7PY would be gratefully received.
The moraine crest path overlooking Glacier Noir (Route 37)
