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ROUTE 3

Barrage du Chambon (1044m) – Chalets du Fay (2258m) – Dôme du Lac Noir (2456m)

Start	Barrage du Chambon (1044m)
Distance	13km (+ 3km)
Total Ascent	1412m
Grade	2–3
Time	5–5½hrs (+ 45mins)
Location	Northeast of Lac du Chambon
Accommodation	Mizoën, Les Clots and Refuge duChalet du Fay

The Dôme du Lac Noir is a cairned viewpoint overlooking the Lacs Noir and Lérié on the famed Plateau d'Emparis high on the north bank of the Romanche. It's an understandably popular area, although most visitors either drive part way or walk to it from Le Chazelet, above La Grave. While the amount of height to be gained on the walk described makes it a tough day, the trail, which is a variante of GR54 (as well as being a section of GR50), is mostly straightforward, but with one or two exposed sections. It's recommended to spend a night at the Chalet du Fay gîte, either before or after visiting the lakes. As an alternative to returning to the barrage you could join the main GR54 and continue to La Grave.

A steep path rises from the Barrage du Chambon to avoid the first two hairpins of the minor road which twists up to Mizoën (30mins: accommodation, refreshments), a small village at 1186m.

Gîte d'étape l'Emparis: 40 places, open all year ( 04 76 80 18 69)

Le Panoramique: 10 rooms, open except May and Oct-mid-Dec ( 04 76 80 06 25)

In the centre of the village waymarks direct the route between houses, then to the right before rejoining the road very briefly. Take a path on the right once more. This leads to the hamlet of Les Aymes, clustered above the lake, but on leaving you come onto a waymarked path which develops as an exposed trail along the hillside aiming roughly eastward. Eventually cross a small pasture near Les Clots (1540m, 13?4hrs).

Refuge des Clots: 15 places, open in summer, meals provided ( 04 76 80 03 10)

Now the way climbs the grassy hillside in zigzags, then crosses above the impressive Cascade de la Pisse and, curving east again, joins a dirt road. Either follow this or the path nearby, which will bring you to the Refuge du Chalet du Fay (2258m, 4hrs: accommodation, refreshments).

Refuge du Chalet du Fay: open June to end Oct ( 04 76 80 24 12)

The way now slopes down a little over pastureland and alongside a stream until coming to a junction (2211m) with the main GR54. Here you turn right and rise easily to gain Col du Souchet (2365m) about 45mins after leaving the Chalet du Fay. Here you'll find another path junction. Bear right and soon reach Lac Noir, a beautiful tarn with reflective views of the Meije and Le Râteau cast in the water. Lac Lérié lies a short distance to the east, sunken slightly in a hollow, while the Dôme du Lac Noir is marked by a cairn between the two tarns. The grass hummocks and limestone ribs around the lakes are starred with Alpine plants such as edelweiss, gentians and alpine asters. Other small tarns, pools and dried lakes lie northwest of Lac Noir.

Either return by the way you came (45mins to Chalet du Fay), or retrace your steps to Col du Souchet and there turn right to follow GR54 to Le Chazelet and La Grave (2½-3hrs to La Grave).

Lac Lerié on the Plateau d'Emparis