Читать книгу Walking in Kent - Kev Reynolds - Страница 13
ОглавлениеWEST KENT AND THE WEALD
With the Darent Gap seen off to the right, the way descends to a lane above Shoreham (Walk 1)
From the Darent Valley which slices through the North Downs, to the low-lying pastures edging Romney Marsh, the countryside south of the M20 rewards the walker with a magnificently diverse set of landscapes. Only a small part of the North Downs is included, but the Kentish half of the Greensand Ridge is here in its entirety, as is the vast sweep of the Weald with its historic villages, orchards, hop gardens and vineyards, and numerous scenes of timeless beauty.
WALK 1
Lullingstone Park to Shoreham
| Start/Finish | Lullingstone Park Visitor Centre (TQ 526 638) |
| Distance | 6 miles/9.5km |
| Maps | OS Explorer 147 and 162 |
| Refreshments | Cafeteria at Lullingstone Park Visitor Centre; pubs in Shoreham |
| Access | Via Castle Road cutting southwest off A225 ½ mile/800 metres south of Eynsford railway bridge. Nearest railway stations: Eynsford and Shoreham. |
| Parking | Pay & display at the visitor centre |
Formerly a medieval deer park, Lullingstone Park provides a focus of outdoor recreation on the west flank of the Darent Valley between Shoreham and Eynsford. In addition to the ubiquitous golf course, there are woodland walks and views from open meadows, while the visitor centre on the Darent’s bank serves the public with refreshments, toilets, interpretive leaflets, walking guides and plenty of information on the area’s natural history.
Apart from the pleasures of the North Downs, there are many other features to this walk. First, a riverside stroll with views across a man-made lake to the Tudor manor house of Lullingstone Castle, then an opportunity to make a short diversion to inspect the remains of a Roman villa. There are handsome farmhouses and flint-walled cottages, an imposing mansion set in neat lawns, and a rather striking viaduct marching across the valley. Near the end of the walk, Shoreham has lots of interest and attractive scenes at almost every turn.
From the visitor centre entrance take the very pleasant streamside path among trees, with the Darent on your right. Beyond the stream can be seen an extensive lake that extends as far as the red-brick mansion of Lullingstone Castle.
Lullingstone Castle is a Tudor mansion with a red brick Queen Anne facade set within 120 acres of countryside. Home to the same family since 1497, it has a 15-acre lake and the UK’s first World Garden of Plants created by plant hunter Tom Hart Dyke. The house and gardens are open to the public on set days between April and September. For information see www.lullingstonecastle.co.uk.
The Queen Anne facade of Lullingstone Castle conceals a Tudor mansion
Walk through a parking area and onto a lane by the castle’s gatehouse entrance. Keep on this lane for almost ½ mile/800 metres, but immediately before reaching Lullingstone Roman Villa, turn left on a footpath rising among trees.
Lullingstone Roman Villa dates from about AD100, but was enlarged over some 300 years of occupation to house what was probably an important Roman official. There were baths and underfloor heating, a Christian chapel, and superb mosaic floors on public display now via English Heritage (www.english-heritage.org.uk).
Above the trees the way continues to climb, and near the head of the slope a path breaks off to the right. Ignoring this, continue ahead alongside trees, then veer left through the trees to cross the open brow of a hill with long views over the Darent Valley. Now the path slopes downhill, passes between scrub trees into a dip, then rises on the other side. When it forks keep ahead on the right branch, soon coming to an open meadow which you cross along its right-hand edge. On the far side the path divides again. Take the left branch (the other is a bridleway) which takes you through a long strip of woodland with a golf course on the left. At a crossing track continue directly ahead through another section of woodland, but when you emerge from this at a paved way on the golf course, turn right towards a car park and the clubhouse.
About 150 metres before reaching the car park, note a large wooden signpost. At this point turn left on what is part of a circular walk. Aim for a marker post and continue into Upper Beechen Wood where a broad path takes you down a slope, at the foot of which you cross a fairway – beware flying golf balls! Continue up the grass slope opposite, but very soon veer left on a path rising through more woodland. At the top of the slope come to crosstracks and maintain direction to a ladder stile and a gate. An enclosed path now leads ahead to a field, which you cross to Redmans Lane at TQ 510 637.
Turn left, and after about 100 metres bear right on a concrete driveway leading to two bungalows. At the end of the second garden boundary the path enters a large field. Keep to the right-hand edge, and at the far corner cross a stile into a sloping meadow, with fine views to the steep scarp slope of the Downs. Hills of woodland and meadow fold into neat valleys ahead.
Descend alongside a fence to the bottom left-hand corner where you come onto a lane opposite a cottage at TQ 515 628. Bear left, following the lane through an avenue of mature trees, then turn right at a T-junction. There’s an interesting memorial stone up a few steps on the right. Continue up the lane to another junction. Ignore the left turn for Shoreham and stay on the right fork for a short distance. On coming to a cottage on the left, turn onto a track immediately left of the driveway. This track runs above and to the right of a sunken pathway, veering to the right and rising steadily. When it forks at the entrance to Meenfield Wood continue directly ahead, with steep meadows sweeping down to Shoreham on your left.
The way takes you above a large memorial cross cut into the chalk slope, with a dedication to the men of Shoreham who lost their lives in the 1914–18 war. From here there is a splendid view over the village and the Darent Valley. Continue ahead as far as a crossing path where you descend to the village, passing the Shoreham Aircraft Museum where teas are served (open weekends from May to September www.shoreham-aircraft-museum.co.uk). Turn right along High Street, then left into Church Street.
Shoreham is an attractive village with a number of tile-hung or flint-walled cottages, and a picturesque bridge over the Darent, a stream that adds much to Shoreham’s charm. There’s a railway station on the London (Victoria or Blackfriars) to Ashford line, and a bus service from Sevenoaks. At the railway station the Shoreham Society has developed an interesting Countryside Centre.
Seen from the walk, the Darent flows at the bottom of Shoreham gardens
Wander down Church Street past the weatherboarded Kings Arms with its unusual ostler’s box, then cross the Darent and bear left by the war memorial. Approaching the entrance to The Water House (where Samuel Palmer the artist once lived) veer left on a surfaced path accompanying the stream. When a footbridge allows, cross to the left bank where the continuing route is waymarked for the Darent Valley Path. It continues as a fenced path. When the fencing ends keep along the right headland of a field, then cross through the middle of the next field to a concrete farm road. Continue ahead and eventually come onto a country road by some houses. At this point veer slightly left, up steps and into a field where you follow its right-hand boundary for about 500 metres to Lullingstone Park Visitor Centre.
WALK 2
Shoreham to Romney Street
| Start/Finish | Church of St Peter & St Paul, Shoreham (TQ 523 616) |
| Distance | 5 miles/8km |
| Maps | OS Explorer 147 |
| Refreshments | Pubs in Shoreham |
| Access | Via A225, 3 miles/5km north of Sevenoaks. Nearest railway station: Shoreham. Buses from Sevenoaks. |
| Parking | Public car park in Filston Lane, Shoreham (TQ 518 615) |
‘Everything connected with the village in those happy times,’ wrote 19th-century artist Samuel Palmer of the seven years he lived in Shoreham, ‘seemed wrapped about with a sentiment of cosy quiet antiquity, full of association that carried you far back into the pastoral life of Merry England years ago.’ There’s something of that association today, for the Darent Valley – in which Shoreham nestles between ramparts of the North Downs – is surprisingly unspoilt, having happily been spared the ravages of the M25 whose route had once been proposed to go through it.
Both village and valley are among the gems of this corner of Kent, with lots of opportunities for the walker. But Shoreham features only at the start and end of this particular walk, for the Darent is soon deserted in order to cross the eastern wall of the Downs to enter a hidden valley whose existence will surprise newcomers to the area.
Mentioned in the Domesday Book, Shoreham lies in a valley known to have been a major site of Stone Age settlements. A castle was built here in the 13th century – Castle Farm stands on its ruins – and two watermills once drew power from the Darent: a corn mill to the south, a paper mill to the north. During World War II, Shoreham was the most heavily bombed of all UK villages.
From the heart of the village, pass through Shoreham churchyard into an open field, where you turn left. Walk along the field edge until coming to a crossing path, then turn right. This path soon crosses the railway line and brings you to the A225. Cross with care and find a footpath sign about 50 metres to the left. Here you go through a hedge and aim half-left across a field to the opposite scrub boundary, then out to a drive below a house. Across the drive the continuing path slants up the edge of the garden and the wooded hillside beyond. It’s a steep climb nearly all the way.
Gaining the crest of the Downs come to a crossing path and bear left. The way eventually eases through woodland and emerges to open fields. From the woodland corner proceed straight across the field ahead, in effect making for the far corner. A few paces right of this, enter woods again and begin a steep descent among yew trees.
The path emerges into a surprisingly peaceful valley. Enclosed by hedges and trees for about 100 metres, you then turn left and follow the continuing path through grassland and on to a minor lane near a large Dutch barn at TQ 541 631. Crossing the lane the way passes to the right of the barn, and comes to a farm drive where you turn right. Passing a few houses and farm buildings the drive eventually becomes a track, which then narrows to an enclosed footpath.
Before 2014 this hidden valley was home to a golf course
About 500 metres after joining the track leave it in favour of a path on the left which is flanked on both sides by hedges and trees. It soon begins to rise up the downland slope towards Lower Wood. Entering a patch of scrub, veer right, then left up a sloping meadow. The path then angles along the fence-lined edge of the wood. There are splendid views ahead, and across to the right, where you can see over the brow of Round Hill to the wooded ridge through which the walk entered the valley. At the end of the fence-line the way continues along the top edge of two linking fields, until the garden boundary of Romney Street Farm and a crossing path at TQ 548 615.
Turn right and enjoy a long view to the right where, far-off, can be seen the sky-scrapers of Canary Wharf. Climb two stiles on either side of a track, then descend a steep slope, at the bottom of which you cross a track and continue ahead on another hedge-enclosed footpath. This takes you up a steep slope on the western side of the valley.
Enter woods again, and on emerging from them aim half-left across the corner of a hilltop field. Maintain direction over the next field, then, at a crossing track, turn right to reach Dunstall Farm at TQ 535 614. Shortly before reaching the farm the Queen Elizabeth II Bridge over the Thames at Dartford can be seen in the distance, while all around you lies a tranquil, untroubled landscape. In the farmyard veer right, then left past some barns and cross another open field towards more trees on the lip of the Downs. Shortly after entering Dunstall Woods there’s a crossing path. Go straight over this and descend (steeply in places and on a long flight of timber-braced steps) ignoring alternatives to right and left, and come once more into the Darent Valley. Cross the A225 opposite Shoreham station, and wander down the road into Shoreham village.
WALK 3
Westerham to French Street and Chartwell
| Start/Finish | Westerham green (TQ 447 540) |
| Distance | 4½ miles/7km |
| Maps | OS Explorer 147 |
| Refreshments | Pubs and cafés in Westerham, tearoom at Chartwell |
| Access | On the A25 about 5 miles/8km west of Sevenoaks. Westerham is served by buses from Bromley and Sevenoaks. |
| Parking | Pay & display car park on A25 east of Westerham near Quebec House |
This circular walk is a real gem that explores some quiet little valleys, woodland, hilltop crests with expansive views, an attractive little hamlet, and wanders alongside Chartwell, one-time home of Sir Winston Churchill. It’s a switchback of a route with several steep, though short, ascents and descents to tackle; a fine walk to enjoy in all seasons.
Westerham is a historic place whose first inhabitants built their huts within a stockade on what is now the green. In 1227 Henry III granted a charter allowing a market here, thus giving Westerham town status. Among its many fine old buildings there’s the 700-year-old Grasshopper above the green, and the Vicarage in which James Wolfe was born in 1727. Wolfe actually spent his childhood in the red-brick, multi-gabled house now known as Quebec House after his famous victory in Canada. This house is now in the care of the National Trust and is open to the public.
Begin on the triangular village green near Westerham parish church. On the green there’s a bronze statue of Churchill by Oscar Nemon, while General James Wolfe holds his sword aloft nearby. Cross the A25 below the Churchill statue and walk ahead down Water Lane, a narrow alleyway that leads between walls, crosses two branches of the Darent stream and enters the foot of a sloping meadow. Walk up the slope to a kissing gate in the skyline fence, after which you cut across a hilltop meadow slightly left, to reach a squeeze stile by an oak tree. An enclosed footpath now takes you to the B2026. Cross with care, turn right, and after a short distance come to a minor junction by a green at TQ 452 533.
In the heart of Westerham James Wolfe holds his sword aloft, while behind him Churchill stares glumly from his seat on the green
Bear left on the lane signed to French Street, and after about 100 metres break away left along a descending track towards a solitary house, then head to the right on a footpath. In a few paces pass near the entrance to Hosey Cave (barred to keep people out, whilst enabling a colony of bats to enter). The path winds up among woods and then forks. Continue straight ahead, now out of the woods but going along a tunnel of trees. Just before reaching Gillhams Farm go through a gate, then turn left on a drive towards stables. The way then swings right and descends alongside a fence, with lovely views left, before entering more woodland. At the foot of the slope the path crosses a stream and curves right. Shortly after, climb a steep slope on the left by a flight of wood-braced steps, and almost on the brow of the hill turn right on a crossing path. Before long this slopes gently downhill, and continues ahead before veering right to cross a stream on a footbridge.
Enter a sloping field via a kissing gate. Follow its left-hand edge to another kissing gate in the top corner where a path now eases along the hillside and emerges onto a narrow lane in the hamlet of French Street. Immediately before coming onto this lane, note the unusual private burial ground on the right, and a wonderful view left across a valley to the oasthouses of Outridge Farm (see Walk 5).
Nothing could be more typical of Kent than an oasthouse. These conical buildings – some circular, others square-edged – were used for drying hops. The lower, brick-built section contained a furnace, above which the freshly-harvested hops were spread across a thin floor to dry. Standing proud of the steeply sloping roof, the white sail-like open-sided chimney turned with the wind to draw the furnace fire. Once the hops had been dried, they would be tipped into huge sacks known as pockets. Their original use having died out, many oasthouses have either been converted to dwellings, or are used as storage barns.
Bear left along the lane past pretty little April Cottage, then turn right on a drive where a bridleway signed Greensand Way takes you alongside the boundary hedge of a house called Mannings Wood. Bear left with the hedge, soon walking along the edge of woodland – the bridleway here can be very muddy in winter, or following heavy rain. Eventually come to a narrow lane. Take the left hand of two paths directly ahead, which leads down a slope along the Chartwell boundary with views left over a series of small lakes to a vast Wealden panorama.
Home of Sir Winston Churchill from 1924 until his death in 1965, Chartwell stands on a high terrace of land overlooking a great sweep of gardens, parkland and lakes, with a splendid view south into the Weald. It was for this view that Churchill bought the house. ‘A day away from Chartwell,’ he said, ‘is a day wasted.’ Under the National Trust Chartwell is now part-museum devoted to Churchill’s long life and varied careers, and partly the house and home as he knew it for 40 years. (For current opening times see www.nationaltrust.org.uk/chartwell).
Come to a country road by the entrance to Chartwell car park. When the house and grounds are open, refreshments can be had at the tearoom located at the far end of the car park. Cross the road with care and ascend a steep slope on timber-braced steps to a wooded common. Ignoring alternative paths to right and left, continue directly ahead on the route of the Greensand Way, among bilberry, bracken, heather and rhododendron, with oak, pine and sweet chestnut trees providing almost constant shade. Cross a narrow driveway and in a few paces come to a boundary fence. Turn right and continue ahead at a fork to descend a sunken path leading to the B2026 at TQ 448 515. At the fork it’s worth making a short diversion onto Mariners Hill. For this veer left and, leaving the trees, continue between a hedge and a fence to enjoy an expansive view over the Weald.
Cross the road with care and walk down the drive of another April Cottage. When this curves left, keep ahead for a few paces. The bridleway forks. Take the right branch among trees at the foot of Crockham Hill Common. Ignore alternative paths right and left and follow the track (it can be very muddy in winter, but minor diversions avoid the worst places) which brings you alongside the boundary fence of Crockham House. When the fence ends, go through a kissing gate on the right to enter the meadowland of Squerryes Park.
Wander across the meadow veering half-left to another stile on the edge of woods. The course of the infant River Darent, which rises in the garden of Crockham House, can be seen to the right, while the woods on the left disguise the site of an Iron Age hillfort. The continuing path keeps alongside the woods, and when these end, you come to a dirt track at TQ 444 525.
Alternative route
This lake walk makes a very pleasant alternative to the main route, without adding much to the overall distance, and it begins a few paces after joining the track at the northern end of the meadow. When the track forks, take the right-hand option until it curves left through a padlocked gate. Just beyond the gate cross a stile to rejoin the track. Easing through a charming little valley, it follows the course of the Darent which has been dammed to form three narrow lakes – although these can sometimes be hidden by trees and scrub. Remain with the track, which eventually rejoins the main walk beside Park Lodge at TQ 444 536.
The lake walk option follows this track towards Westerham
For the main route, follow the track uphill, curving left near the brow of the hill where Squerryes Farm can be seen below. At a junction of paths go through a kissing gate on the right, walk through a wooded grove, over a narrow field and along a fenced path which soon descends steeply, with views of Westerham below and the North Downs ahead, to reach a track by Park Lodge at TQ 444 536.
Walk ahead along the track to a pond seen on the left. On the right a concrete footbridge crosses the Darent stream, with a footpath leading along the bottom edge of a sloping meadow. Eventually come to a kissing gate on the left. Through this the way takes you along Water Lane into Westerham opposite the green where the walk began.
WALK 4
Crockham Hill to Toys Hill and Obriss Farm
| Start/Finish | Church Road, Crockham Hill (TQ 443 507) |
| Distance | 5 miles/8km |
| Maps | OS Explorer 147 |
| Refreshments | None on route, but pub in Crockham Hill |
| Access | East side of B2026, midway between Westerham and Edenbridge. Crockham Hill is served by infrequent buses from Oxted, Westerham and Edenbridge. |
| Parking | With discretion in Church Road |
This particular walk is just one of many possibilities in this western corner of the county where footpaths abound and broad panoramas capture scenes of great natural beauty. It’s countryside that was known and loved by Octavia Hill, one of the co-founders of the National Trust, who walked these same footpaths, fought to keep them open, and now lies buried in Crockham Hill churchyard.
Much of the walk has Octavia Hill connections, either through the National Trust, or from more personal association. She lies at rest close to the start of the walk, and within the first mile the route passes a cottage she once owned, a seat erected by her in memory of her mother, a hilltop saved by her for the nation, and one of the Trust’s most popular properties (Chartwell). At Toys Hill there are woodlands named in Octavia Hill’s memory, another cottage once owned by her, and a well that she sank for use by the villagers. As you step out along these paths and enjoy the magnificent views, spare a moment to consider the effect her tremendous vision had on our ability to enjoy open access to this countryside – and give thanks.
Begin on the road leading to the church in Crockham Hill – it is signed from the B2026. Where the lane curves left for the final approach to the church go ahead through a kissing gate beside a field gate, into a meadow at a dedicated picnic area. Cross slightly left ahead towards a gate in a fence and maintain direction on a grass path leading over the undulating meadow which was drastically reshaped by a landslip in 1596.
The path brings you to a second kissing gate and a footbridge over a stream. Rise up the left-hand side of the next meadow, then over a stile continue up 134 steps between gardens to pass a thatched cottage half hidden behind a fence and shrubs. Coming onto a lane opposite a converted oasthouse once owned by Octavia Hill, turn left for about 400 metres until reaching the B2026 shortly after passing the attractive Froghole Farm (built 1559).
At least a dozen oasthouses stand in and around Crockham Hill, proving that the village was once at the heart of a major hop growing region. Wild hops may still be seen growing among the hedgerows, but Kent’s commercial hop industry has declined dramatically since the Second World War, and there are now no hop gardens left in this corner of the county. Much of this decline is due to competition from abroad, and other economic factors. On Walk 9, the oasthouse at Bough Beech Visitor Centre contains a small but interesting display all about hop growing, and is recommended.
On the slope of Mariners Hill, Froghole Farm was built in 1559
Climb more steps immediately on your right, and continue ahead at crossing paths. The right-hand path leads through trees to a seat erected by Octavia Hill in memory of her mother, then continues over Mariners Hill – saved for the nation by Octavia’s efforts – where there’s another seat with a huge view. Keep ahead alongside a fence with the crown of Mariners Hill to the right, then veer left among trees. The path curves to the right and forks. Keep to the right-hand option alongside the boundary fence of a solitary house, and shortly after crossing its drive, the way begins to slope downhill. After about 250 metres you’ll see a broad path/track on the left. Turn right here on a gravel path which descends between more trees, eventually coming onto a country road a little south of Chartwell, home of Winston Churchill for many years, but now open to the public via the National Trust (see Walk 3).
Turn right along the road for about 30 metres, then cut left on a drive leading to Chartwell Farm. Keeping to the left-hand side of the farmhouse (magnificent rhododendrons and azaleas in early summer), you then pass alongside two sets of oasthouses and go through a kissing gate onto a track. Keep ahead over a stile beside a gate, soon veering slightly right on a hedge-lined path that eventually brings you onto Puddledock Lane at TQ 462 509, where you turn left.
Passing the few houses of Puddledock, follow the narrow lane for ½ mile/800 metres uphill towards Toys Hill. A few paces beyond the entrance to Little Toys, turn right on a short driveway that leads to Bardogs Farmhouse. Another 200 metres up the lane in the hamlet of Toys Hill, stands the Octavia Hill wellhead from which there’s a magnificent view over the Weald. A footpath now squeezes alongside a hedge to the left of a gate and continues downhill, curving left then right. Ignoring an alternative which cuts off to the left, this path becomes almost a sunken track before reaching a gate leading into a meadow.
Wander down the slope keeping fairly close to the right-hand woodland, to find two stiles at the bottom corner. Over the left of these walk ahead among trees, then enter another meadow. After a few paces go through a gap in a line of trees, then aim slightly right ahead over open meadowland with long views stretching ahead. On the far side, about 30 metres from its right-hand corner, cross a stile and continue ahead following the right-hand boundary of another large meadow. Halfway along the boundary come to a barn where you turn right, go through a gate and onto a farm track by Obriss Farm. Now walk ahead along the farm drive/track, crossing a ford on the way, and eventually coming to Mapleton Road about 1 mile/1.5km south of Chartwell at TQ 460 501.
A bluebell-fringed woodland near Obriss Farm
Parts of the splendid old Obriss Farm buildings date back to 1550. Occupying an isolated position amid beautiful countryside, the farm is now in the care of the Landmark Trust, from which the house may be rented for holiday use www.landmarktrust.org.uk.
Turn left along the road for a few paces, then break to the right on a track beside an attractive tile-hung cottage. This track is notoriously muddy and waterlogged in winter – or at any time of year in inclement weather. After about 400 metres, where it rises and makes a right-hand bend, leave the track to cross a stile on the right into a large open field from which you have views of the Greensand Ridge, and with Crockham Hill church seen across the fields half-left.
Walk towards the left-hand edge of a woodland, keep ahead alongside its boundary, then veer half-right to another stile. Over this, after a few paces, enter another meadow and turn left alongside a woodland shaw. On reaching a corner continue ahead to yet another stile. This brings you into a sloping meadow where you veer right down to a field gate and a stile by a small stream. Over the stile walk up the next slope, at first alongside its right-hand edge, then on a faint grass path to the head of the slope where you can see the red tile-hung house known as Chandlers. Leave the meadow through a kissing gate, from which there’s a glorious view back across the Weald.
The way now continues between hedges and a garden wall, and is soon directed left between fences dividing two sections of garden. Leave this through a white gate, then turn right on a driveway which drops down a slope to the head of a narrow lane. Veer left along the lane, soon passing a group of houses, the last of which is the lovely old Close Farm. The lane continues between fields, and eventually comes to the B2026 in Crockham Hill. The Royal Oak pub is just off to the left, should you be in need of refreshment. Turn right, and after passing a row of houses, turn right again into Church Road where the walk began.
WALK 5
Toys Hill to Ide Hill, Crockham Hill and French Street
| Start/Finish | National Trust car park, Toys Hill (TQ 470 517) |
| Distance | 9 miles/14.5km |
| Maps | OS Explorer 147 |
| Refreshments | Pubs in Toys Hill, Ide Hill and Crockham Hill; café/shop at Ide Hill; tearoom at Chartwell |
| Access | On minor road (Chart Lane) heading south from A25 at Brasted, midway between Brasted and Four Elms. Buses serve Ide Hill from Edenbridge and Sevenoaks. |
| Parking | National Trust car park (fee payable) |
Between the Kent–Surrey border and Sevenoaks, the Greensand Ridge is criss-crossed with numerous footpaths, while the long-distance Greensand Way exploits some of the finest views over the Kentish Weald. Toys Hill, Ide Hill and Crockham Hill are among the highest places along the ridge, while French Street is a delightful hamlet nestling on the northern slope whose valley drains down into the unseen Holmesdale Valley, beyond which stretches the North Downs wall.
This walk – the longest and hilliest of the main routes in this book – not only picks out some of the most expansive vantage points along that ridge, but also weaves a route along the lower slopes, going from farm to farm in a surprisingly tranquil landscape. As with Walk 4, this also connects a number of sites associated with the life of Octavia Hill, and the continuing work of the National Trust.
Toys Hill consists of 450 acres/180ha of woodland in the care of the National Trust. Those on the east side of the road are named after Octavia Hill, one of the co-founders of the Trust.
From the entrance to the National Trust car park on the west side of the road on Toys Hill, cross to the east side where a footpath takes you into woodland. At the first junction veer left along the Greensand Way, then at a multi-junction of paths take the second right, continuing along the Greensand Way. Descend a slope, head over a crossing path and continue downhill until you leave the woodland at a squeeze-stile on the edge of an open meadow with big views across the Weald. There’s a seat on the left which exploits those views. Dedicated to the memory of a local farmer who lived nearby, it is a magnificent place to sit and reflect on the beauty all around you.
Turn left round the edge of the meadow with Ide Hill church seen ahead, and go down the slope where a stile by a field gate takes you into a second meadow, at the bottom of which you cross a footbridge and walk up the slope ahead. At the top of two linking meadows, leave the track which continues onto Ide Hill, and instead take a footpath through a kissing gate in a hedge on the right.
For a direct route to Ide Hill, avoiding another ascent and saving about ½ mile/800 metres, continue up the track to emerge on a road by the village primary school. Turn right then left to rejoin the main walk beside Ide Hill village green near The Cock Inn.
Guided by a fence with more fine views, you soon enter woodland, cross a small brook and, winding among trees, start to rise up the steep slope. When the way forks take the left branch to gain the crown of the hill where there’s an open grass area with one or two benches from which it used to be possible to enjoy another fine view. Octavia Hill was directly responsible for saving this hilltop for the National Trust. Sadly, on recent visits it was found that trees and scrub had been allowed to block this view. Over the hilltop a path continues alongside a fence, then spills out on the village green at Ide Hill, next to the church. On the far side of the green stands The Cock Inn.
In the early years of the National Trust, Octavia Hill encouraged supporters to donate land in memoriam. Her sister Miranda did this when she gave the Trust the first piece of land on Ide Hill. Other priceless sites along the greensand hills were presented to the Trust at One Tree Hill (Walk 8), Toys Hill (Walks 4 and 5), Mariners Hill and Crockham Hill (Walks 3, 4 and 5)
Emerging from the Octavia Hill woodland on Toys Hill, a clear view shows Ide Hill ahead
Turn right on the road in front of the pub, but take great care for there’s oncoming traffic and a blind corner. A few paces after passing the village hall with the splendid community-run village stores/café next to it (car park and public toilets on the south side) come to the B2042, cross with care and turn left. Take the first turning on the right, a narrow lane which forks almost at once. Do not take the upper branch (the Greensand Way), but remain on the lower option, a metalled lane known as Hanging Bank. This curves left then right, and after about ½ mile/800 metres ends by a house. One path cuts off left ahead, but go through a kissing gate near a garage on the right, and enter a meadow rough with hillocks, and another big view which includes Bough Beech Reservoir.
Veer right through the meadow, pass to the left of a pond, then wander slightly left through a gap, aiming more or less towards a large white house seen ahead. The way goes alongside bushes, then through a kissing gate which brings you onto a drive at Chains Farm. At the head of this come onto the B2042 again at TQ 488 510.
Walk down the road for about 100 metres, before turning right onto a narrow lane/farm drive opposite Oakwood Lodge, the large white house seen earlier. The metalled lane eventually takes you past Henden Manor glimpsed through hedges on the right with a moat around it. Go through the farmyard beyond the manor, after which the lane curves left between fields. A short distance after the curve, go through a bridle gate on the right, and along a bridleway that leads across a large field. On the far side another gate takes you into a belt of woodland where you descend a little to a second gate, after which the way curves right, and continues to slope downhill. Towards the foot of the slope the sunken path often has a small stream running along it. Over a footbridge, the way then rises slightly to pass Tan House, a lovely old tile-hung building in a secluded position.
Now on a drive, follow this to a country road, where you turn left. After about 120 metres turn right through a gate onto a track which cuts through more woodland, beyond which you go through a kissing gate into a narrow meadow. Keep ahead to another belt of woodland. Through this cross a stile beside a bridle gate, then maintain direction along the edge of another meadow. At the bottom of this go through a gate by some willows, then aim half-left towards the right-hand end of a barn at Obriss Farm for more big views to the south. Here you come onto a farm drive and continue, eventually reaching Mapleton Road at TQ 460 501.
Wood near Obriss
Turn right and walk with care along this country road (there’s no pavement) for about 400 metres. Just after passing a cottage on the right, take a footpath through a kissing gate on the left into a belt of trees beside a stream. Soon enter a rectangular meadow and maintain direction along its left-hand boundary beside more woodland. At the far corner go through another strip of trees and over a stile into a sloping meadow. Veer half-right down to a field gate, a stile and another small stream. Over this walk up the next sloping meadow which is divided by trees and bushes. Keep to the left of these and ascend a vague grass path aiming towards a house. At the head of the slope a kissing gate gives access to a continuing path rising between hedges and a garden wall. The way soon turns left where fences divide two sections of garden. Through a white gate turn right down a drive to the head of a narrow metalled lane by a tile-hung cottage.
Follow the lane left, soon passing a few houses, and keep on to where the lane feeds into the B2026 in Crockham Hill. The Royal Oak pub is seen a short distance away on the left. Turn right, and after passing a row of houses, turn right again into Church Road. After passing the village primary school, the road curves towards Holy Trinity church. Octavia Hill is buried in the churchyard. Leave it here and go ahead through a kissing gate beside a field gate into a meadow at a dedicated picnic area. Cross slightly left ahead towards a gate in a fence, and maintain direction over the undulating meadow with Mariners Hill seen above Froghole Farm and its oasthouses.
The path leads to a second kissing gate and a footbridge. Go up the left-hand side of a rising meadow. At the top cross a stile and ascend 134 steps between cascading gardens, and passing a thatched cottage on your left (half-hidden behind a fence and shrubs) emerge onto Froghole Lane. Turn left, and about 400 metres later come to the B2026 again at TQ 448 514.
Immediately on the right you will see another flight of stone steps, which you now climb onto Mariners Hill. At the top of the steps keep ahead on a fenced path which keeps left of a hilltop field. The path soon curves left among trees, with a house seen on the right, and on reaching a corner boundary fence you veer right, then in a few paces break off to the left – now on the route of the Greensand Way.
Mariners Hill was secured for the National Trust by a cheque received by Octavia Hill the day before she died in 1912. With a tremendous panoramic view over four counties (Kent, Surrey, East and West Sussex), a brief diversion to the crown of the hill is worth making.
Cross a narrow drive and continue ahead over a wooded common. Ignoring alternative paths that break off right and left, eventually descend a fairly steep slope to a lane opposite the entrance to Chartwell.
Home to Sir Winston Churchill for 40-odd years, Chartwell is now one of the busiest National Trust properties. Refreshments are available at the house-end of the car park.
Cross the lane with care onto a continuing footpath immediately left of the car park entrance. It’s a narrow, fence-enclosed path (muddy after inclement weather) from which you can glimpse views of the extensive Chartwell grounds. Soon rising steeply among trees you reach another narrow lane and cross directly ahead onto a bridleway which takes you through more woodland. Once again, ignore alternative paths and keep ahead, eventually curving right alongside the hedged garden boundary of a house at the hamlet of French Street. Very shortly come to a crossing lane at TQ 458 527.
Leave the Greensand Way here and turn left. Shortly after passing the attractive little white-walled April Cottage, take the right-hand of two footpaths on the right, and descend steeply between fences. At the foot of the slope cross a footbridge over a minor stream, and ascend a meadow to its top right-hand corner where there’s a stile next to a field gate. Turn right on a farm drive, and within a few paces pass along the right-hand side of Outridge Farm, an utterly delightful cottage, and oasthouses owned by the National Trust.
Outridge Farm on the edge of Toys Hill woods
