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ОглавлениеCHAPTER 1
CHEVY TRUCK MODEL HISTORY
The Chevrolet truck restoration market has always been popular, but the model years that are in vogue tend to cycle up and down based on both price and availability. Throughout decades of this happening, one generation of truck has consistently stayed on the top of the heap: the 1967–1972 Chevrolet C10.
Overview
Why this particular model? Maybe it’s the year range and its proximity to the muscle car era. Possibly it’s the overall looks and styling, which even recent generations have tried to emulate. One could argue it’s a combination of those two, as well as the other X factor: coolness.
This 1971 Cheyenne Super is a great example of a nice original truck. The interior, badging, trim, and color are all desirable and serve as an inspiration for any restorer. If you’re looking for a goal, this could be it. (Photo Courtesy National Parts Depot)
Visually, the model years all share the same basic shape with slight visual differences between each year. Overall, they can be grouped into two-year increments: 1967–1968, 1969–1970, and 1971–1972.
The year 1967 was the introduction of the truck, and with it came a distinctive slanted hood, large grille openings, and—the defining characteristic to many people—no sidemarker or parking lenses in the fenders or bed. Although a large back window was an option (called a panoramic window—in case you’re looking on service parts identification labels [SPIDs]), many of these trucks came with a smaller back window, so hunters of “true” 1967 models should keep an eye out for this detail first. Stepside models came with wooden bed floors and the fleetsides had steel, although a wood bed floor was an option. The highest model available at the time was the CST, which added polished trim across the lower body lines. These trucks also came standard with a 250-ci six-cylinder or a 283-ci V-8, although a 292 six and 327 V-8 were available options.
The 1968 model eliminated the small back window option but for the most part is visually identical to the 1967. This is also the first year that sidemarker lenses were integrated into the fenders, although they weren’t lights at the time, just reflectors. The side moldings and trim had a few variations, including a top trim similar to the one along the lower panels. From an engine perspective, the 283 was replaced by a 307 V-8, and there was also a 396-ci V-8 as an option.
The front clip on this particular truck is from a 1967 model, and it shows off the one thing that stands out between a 1967 and 1968 model: the lack of sidemarkers. Only in 1967 did the fenders come without those lenses, and in 1968 that changed. Also notice the slanted hood, which changed in 1969. (Photo Courtesy Mark Burdo)
The panoramic window shown here on a 1968 C10 was standard in 1968 forward, but in 1967 it was just an option.
Here you can see the sidemarker lenses on the fenders on this 1968 C10.
The way the front clip changed in 1969 set the standard for the rest of the bodystyle. The grille now was different, as was the hood, which now had a much more vertical stance. Every truck from here on out for this generation had that same hood line.
In 1969, the front end changed with a new front grille and hood. Although both are similar to the 1967 and 1968 models, the bar in the center of the 1969 model is much taller; it incorporates a pair of lenses for the turn signals in that middle portion (instead of inside the vent areas, as were found in the 1967 and 1968s). The hood also had a much more upright stance in the front, and now displayed a Chevrolet bow tie instead of the word “Chevrolet” spelled out. The sidemarker lenses in the truck are also now functioning lights instead of reflectors. Trim wise, there were woodgrain and moldings as options. The only other major change was a switch to a foot-operated parking brake, as the previous two model years had one operated by hand, located under the dash.
The 1970 C10s have the same sheet metal and appearance as the 1969, including the grille. However, the grille looks slightly dissimilar from the 1969 because it was painted differently, giving it a more “egg crate” appearance. The 396 V-8 was replaced with a model touted as a 400, but it was technically a 402 V-8. The only other notable change was an optional tilt steering wheel.
One interesting note about the 1971 model trucks: The rearview mirror mount was different than any other year, including 1972. Previously, the headliner was smooth with three holes used for mounting the rearview mirror. But in 1971, there was a bump-out in the metal for that same mount. If you want a 1971, keep an eye out for that detail.
Notice that screw hole by the wing window? This is another year-specific thing that’s only found on 1972 truck doors. It’s there to stabilize the wing window, but it can also be used to help identify the truck as a 1972.
The year 1971 brought in the most visually distinctive front-end change to the trucks with the elimination of the center bar in the grille that was replaced by a full egg-crate style. The bow tie on the hood was also moved to the grille. The upper-end trim level was the CST in prior years, and it is referred to as a Cheyenne in the 1971 and 1972 models. The biggest performance improvement was the addition of disc brakes as opposed to the drum brakes found prior. This also brought five-lug wheels to the two-wheel-drive C10 (previously they were six lug), and that can be another identifier when looking for the year of a project. Two other small notes: 1971 and 1972 rear axles and front track width are 1½ inches wider than in previous years, and 1971 cabs have a bump for the roof-mounted rearview mirror. It’s the only year with that bump.
Finally, the bodystyle changed very little in 1972. The grille now had a black line running around its perimeter, and the interior mirror was glued to the windshield as opposed to being bolted to the roof. There’s one other interesting difference: Inside the doors, just under the wing windows, sits a single countersunk screw. It’s only found on 1972 doors, and it affects the window regulators as well. Otherwise, the 1971 and 1972 are so similar they could be confused as identical.
How to Spot a Fake
These trucks have been around for more than 45 years now, which means that they’ve been rebuilt, restored, rehashed, and torn apart a million times by thousands of people. And since so many models are considered “desirable” over others, and because the body parts swap out so easily, there are more than a few fake models out in the wild. For those looking for the real deal, it’s important to be able to sort out the wheat from the chaff.
If you have the ability to do so, look at the frame for the VIN. There are two spots where you can check, both of them on the topside. The first is on the driver’s side of the frame, forward of the crossmember, near the steering box. (Photo Courtesy Ronnie Wetch)
If you want to get started, the most straightforward method is to look at the vehicle identification number (VIN) located in the driver’s doorjamb or the SPID on the glove box door and decode it to figure out what the truck originally had. If there are any discrepancies between what the VIN says and what’s visible (or between the SPID and what’s on the truck), walk away. That truck is not what its owner is claiming it to be.
The second spot to check for a VIN is under the cab between the two mounts also on the top of the frame. This is harder to see with the cab on, but one trick is to use your smartphone’s selfie camera and hold it against the bottom of the cab, looking at the VIN. Then you can see what you’re shooting as you go. (Photo Courtesy Ronnie Wetch)
With the VIN, you can learn a lot about the truck. If it’s obviously a four-wheel-drive truck with a solid front axle but the cab’s VIN starts with a “C,” then you have a problem. If it’s running a V-8 and the second digit is an “S,” then the motor has been replaced, and so on. Chances are pretty good that the first four digits of your desired VIN start with CE14 or CS14.
Another place to look is in the glove box. On the inside of the glove box door, there is a sticker labeled as the SPID. It has the VIN on it also. There’s another thing to look for there, and that’s the model number. It’s first in the options list.
| Decoding Your VIN |
| Everything starts with the first five digits of the VIN. That provides a good starting point for everything else that comes after, and it will help with determining what the truck actually is. |
| First Digit (1972 only) |
| C = Chevrolet |
| T = GMC |
| First Digit: Chassis Designation |
| C = Two-wheel drive |
| K = Four-wheel drive |
| Second Digit: Engine Designation |
| E = V-8, Gas |
| S = 6-Cylinder, Gas (inline) |
| Third Digit: GVW Range |
| 1 = 1/2 ton |
| 2 = 3/4 ton |
| 3 = 1 ton |
| Fourth Digit: Model Code |
| 3 = Cab and chassis |
| 4 = Pickup (with cab and bed) |
| 5 = Panel |
| 6 = Suburban |
| 8 = Blazer |
| Fifth Digit: Model Year |
| 7 = 1967 |
| 8 = 1968 |
| 9 = 1969 |
| 0 = 1970 |
| 1 = 1971 |
| 2 = 1972 |
| Sixth Digit: Assembly Plant |
| A = Atlanta |
| B = Baltimore |
| F = Flint |
| J = Janesville |
| N = Norwood |
| P = Pontiac |
| S = St. Louis |
| T = Tarrytown |
| Z = Fremont |
| 1 = Oshawa |
| Chevrolet Model Number Decoder |
| First Digit: Chassis Type |
| C = 2WD |
| K = 4WD |
| Second Digit: Engine Type |
| E = V-8, Gas |
| S = 6-Cylinder, Gas (inline) |
| Third Digit: GVW Range |
| 1 = 1/2 ton |
| 2 = 3/4 ton |
| 3 = 1 ton |
| Fourth and Fifth Digits: Wheelbase Length |
| 07 = 115-inch Short-bed |
| 09 = 127-inch Long-bed |
| 10 = 133-inch Longhorn or 9-foot Stepside |
| Sixth and Seventh Digits: Model Type |
| 03 = Cab and Chassis |
| 04 = Stepside |
| 09 = Cab Platform Stake |
| 34 = Fleetside |
| 1967–1969 GMC Model Number Decoder |
| First Digit: Chassis Type |
| C = 2WD |
| K = 4WD |
| Second Digit: Engine Type |
| E = V-8, Gas |
| M = V-6, Gas |
| S = 6-Cylinder, Gas (inline) |
| Third Digit: GVW Range |
| 1 = 1/2 ton |
| 2 = 3/4 ton |
| 3 = 1 ton |
| Fourth and Fifth Digits: Wheelbase Length |
| 57 = 115-inch Short-bed |
| 59 = 127-inch Long-bed |
| 60 = 133-inch 8-1/2-foot Wideside or 9-foot Fenderside |
| Sixth and Seventh Digits: Model Type |
| OC = Fenderside |
| OD = Wideside |
| OV = Cab and Chassis |
| 1970–1972 GMC Model Number Decoder |
| First Digit: Chassis Type |
| C = 2WD |
| K = 4WD |
| Second Digit: Engine Type |
| E = V-8, Gas |
| M = V-6, Gas |
| S = 6-Cylinder, Gas (inline) |
| Third Digit: GVW Range |
| 1 = 1/2 ton |
| 2 = 3/4 ton |
| 3 = 1 ton |
| Fourth and Fifth Digits: Wheelbase Length |
| 57 = 115-inch Short-bed |
| 59 = 127-inch Long-bed |
| 60 = 133-inch 8 1/2-foot Wideside or 9-foot Fenderside |
| Sixth and Seventh Digits: Model Type |
| 03 = Cab and Chassis |
| 04 = Fenderside |
| 34 = Wideside |
Since the long-bed to short-bed conversion is quite popular, the next place you should look is the frame, both forward of the front suspension mounts and behind the axle. Look for signs of welding or cutting, or possibly gussets on the inside of the frame, since it’s a C-channel design. You can look in similar areas on the inside of the bed as well. Most of the time the cuts are made just forward of the rear cab mount. For more information on that, check out chapter 12.
As for sheet metal changes—times when a previous owner swapped out damaged metal for new—the idea is to tap on the metal with your knuckles. Listen for tone changes, which often indicate where there’s body filler under the paint; filler makes a more solid sound, as opposed to the hollow noise of standard sheet metal. Another good idea is to look at the underside of the fenders and inspect for overspray or other signs of previous bodywork. Pay particular attention to the area around the marker lenses if you’re hunting for a 1967, as some sellers will either swap the fenders or weld them up entirely on a 1968, just to get the extra money.
Here’s an SPID from a Chevy truck. From this, we can determine that it’s specifically a 1971 3/4-ton pickup with a V-8 (a 400-ci engine as denoted lower on the sticker). If you look at the model number, you’ll also see that it’s a 133-inch Longhorn or 9-foot Stepside too. Based on the Z81 option, the likely guess is Longhorn.
This SPID is from a 1972 1/2-ton Chevy, and that’s obvious by “CC” at the leading edge. If it was a 1972 GMC, it would start with “TC.” The model number also tells us that it’s a long-bed fleetside.
What Kind of Truck Do You Want?
With all that knowledge of what kind of trucks are out there, now it’s time to figure out what you want for your project. The common choice for most people is a standard-cab short-bed truck, but there’s definitely a scene for long-bed fans, just like there is for people rebuilding the 3/4- and 1-tons. So don’t be afraid to check out a bunch of different options because who knows? You just might find the perfect truck for you.
All that said, if you want to narrow down your choices a little bit, you can do so pretty quickly. First, do you want a short-bed or a long-bed truck? Then, with that answered, now you should ask yourself if you want a fleetside or a stepside.
This begs the question, “Why those two?” The obvious answer is that it’s an easy way to whittle down your options. From 1967 to 1972, Chevy produced a tick over 480,000 short-bed trucks. In the same time period, they made a little more than 1.4 million long-bed trucks, which means there’s approximately a 3:1 ratio of long-beds to short-beds out there. The split between fleetside and stepside is about even in the short-bed styles, but in long-beds, there were 83,000 stepsides produced and 1.35 million fleetsides in that same range. Basically, if you’re hunting for a long-bed stepside, you’re looking for the proverbial unicorn.
Complicating things further are other variations in the lineup. A C10 is a 1/2-ton pickup, and it’s generally what a lot of people want to buy. But once you get into the market, you’ll find that there are a ton of C20s out there, which are 3/4-tons and usually long-beds. And if you’re into 4x4s, then you want a “K” designation, not a “C,” and K10s and K20s are what you’re looking for. Anything with a “30” designation is a 1-ton truck, so those are C30s and K30s, and they also have dual rear wheels.
It doesn’t matter if it’s a Chevy or a GMC, all of the same questions apply: what kind of truck do you want to build?
Our cover truck started life as a GMC. It may look rough, but the body was relatively straight, free of rust, and, being from Arizona, had seen a dry environment most of its life, making it a perfect project at an affordable price. (Photo Courtesy Mark Burdo)
Then there’s the issue of the year of the truck. As covered earlier, these trucks come in pairs: 1967–1968, 1969–1970, and 1971–1972. Each pair has a general style, which is then narrowed down further with other options. A lot of it comes down to personal style and preference, but year wise, the preferred one tends to be the 1967 short-bed fleetside, sometimes referred to as a “short/wide.” Although the 1967 and 1968 is almost identical, the main difference is the fender-mounted sidemarker lights in the 1968. You can modify 1968 fenders to look like a 1967—or just buy 1967 fenders at a junkyard—but that will be the main thing that separates the two models. People prefer that look because of the more angular front hood, as well as the clean-looking front grille and fenders.
The interior of our cover truck was also rust free, as evidenced by this picture taken during the initial tear down. (Photo Courtesy Mark Burdo)
Scarcity wise, the 1967–68 short-beds aren’t the most difficult to find. That honor would go to the 1971 model, of which only 32,865 were produced. That’s almost 7,000 fewer than the 1972 model, and almost 11,000 fewer than the super-desirable 1967. The call is yours to make.
But wait, there’s more. Because the market demands a ton of C10 short-beds, some people have taken their K10s and converted them to C10s by swapping out suspension components. The same thing happens with C20s. As for the long-beds? Well, let’s talk that through.
Long-beds are to short-beds in the truck world like four-doors are to two-doors in the car world. But unlike cars, you can shorten a long-bed truck fairly easily, and—thanks to the aftermarket—you can get a new bed too. That means you can buy a long-bed C10 or C20 and convert it to a short-bed over the course of a few days. And that could save you a ton of money.
On the one hand, this is good news for you. If you want a shortie but all you can find is long-beds, you know there’s an option you can do in your own garage that’s not ridiculously expensive or difficult. The same goes for converting a C20, K20, or K10 into a C10. On the other hand, it also means that other people have done the same thing. Just pop open Craigslist or eBay and you’ll see dozens of trucks with “converted long-bed” or “short-bed conversion—done the right way” all over the place. The more unscrupulous people will even tell you that they have a factory short-bed when they did the conversion in their backyard. After all, if it will add a few grand to the selling price—and it will—it could be worth it. The point is, if you find a short-bed truck, do a thorough once-over on the vehicle before you put down any cash.
So what do you look for if you’re trying to determine if a truck has been converted? Long-bed trucks are typically cut in two places to change them into a short-bed: under the cab by the rear cab mounts and back by the bumper. The rear cuts are usually pretty easy to hide, particularly if there’s a bumper mounted. But under the cab is more difficult because there will (or should) be some reinforcements there on the frame. Look for plates on either side of the C-channel and cut marks to be sure. Also, Brothers Trucks makes a kit that uses a template to bolt the front and rear sections of the frame back together after you make your long-bed a shorty. It’s supposed to then be welded together, but it’s a sure bet there are lots of project trucks out there that haven’t gotten to that stage yet. Keep an eye out for that as well.
The only other rarity that you have to work with is the small back window option, which was only available in 1967. (An interesting side note about that back glass: The small back window was the standard for 1967, not the exception. The big back window was part of a “Panoramic window” option, and therefore was less common. Meaning, if you want a 1967 short-bed with a big back window from the factory, you have a long hunt ahead of you.)
This 1969 Chevrolet came with an inline-6 and still has it today. It runs like a sewing machine, so the owner doesn’t want to rip it out and replace it, even though he’d prefer a V-8.
If you’re an engine person, there are many choices to be made, but primarily you’re looking at big-block versus small-block V-8s. The big-block first appeared in 1968 as a 396, and in 1970 it changed to a 402 (although it was sold as a 400). Those who like big-block engines like these trucks because of the mammoth engine bay with room to work on an engine like that. However, if you’re not hooked on having a factory engine or parts-matching restoration, then a big-block is just a phone call and installation away.
Let’s be realistic though. You’ll probably find a truck with a small-block V-8, either a 307 or 350. Why? Because these are trucks, not 1966 Mustangs, which means they’ve been used like trucks. You likely won’t find a truck with an original motor, and that’s fine because the market doesn’t demand it. If anything, it demands V-8s.
But here is the big question you need to answer: how much work do you really want to do?
Restoration projects are difficult, expensive, and can be very trying. It can be a bit of an emotional roller coaster too. There’s a lot to cover, and there are dozens of half-completed projects for sale in your area because someone else gave up. If you don’t want to be that person, you need to ask yourself this question: how much work do you want to do? And commit to the answer.
If the answer is “not much,” then the project truck you purchase will dictate that. Find a C10 with small issues—paint chips, it only needs an interior, minor trim replacement—that won’t break the bank and that you can do yourself or farm out affordably. That’s the type of project you’ll want to pick up.
However, if the answer is that you want something to work on for a long period of time, by all means, buy that basket case truck that’s going to need years of work. If you have the time and resources to do it—and, more importantly, you want to do it—then go for it, and enjoy yourself in the process.
The point is, the type of project truck you pick is up to you; just make sure that it suits your skill level and budget.
Inspection and Evaluation
If you want to start your restoration project off on the right foot, then you want to give yourself the best platform possible. That means the truck should fit all of your qualifications—year, bodystyle, engine size, etc.—as well as be rust-free and need minimal mechanical work. That’s the goal. It’s not always the reality.
These trucks have value, and the people selling them typically know that. You’ll see a lot of ads online that read, “These things are getting rare …” or “Perfect patina …” and then they ask for a small fortune. Many times a truck has come out on Craigslist with no redeeming qualities. For example, one option frequently seen in the Phoenix area is a 1969 factory long-bed Chevy with no title and missing VIN plates. It looks like the thing smashed into a telephone pole at 45 mph, destroying all of the sheet metal in the process. There’s no engine, no interior, no windows, and the paint is questionable. How much is the guy asking? $1,000. Firm.
The other problem is the auctions. Every year a new crop of 1967–1972 trucks crosses the blocks, and the records go higher and higher as a result. Putting yours up on the auction block may be your endgame, but there are sellers with trucks they dug out of their backyards who also want a piece of the pie. That means getting what you want for a decent price can be challenging and frustrating.
So in this section let’s take a moment to figure out exactly what kind of truck you want. Whatever one you end up with, know that you’re in for a challenge. Taking a truck that’s 45-plus years old and making it brand new again isn’t easy, nor is it cheap. And it’s always going to take longer than you think it will, making it a huge time suck as well. So instead of picking up the first truck you find for a bargain, let’s take a moment to walk through what to avoid and what to grab onto so that you can make the right decisions from the beginning.
Projects to Avoid
Where to start, right? What kinds of projects do you want to steer clear from and which ones are the diamonds in the rough? Let’s dig in and find out.
Always Get a Title/Pink Slip/Bill of Sale
Laws vary by state, but ultimately every vehicle has some kind of proof of purchase that shows you’re the rightful owner of the vehicle. These trucks have been around for years, and sometimes they were handed down through families with paperwork being lost along the way. Other times the truck sat, the owner passed away, and nobody can figure out where the keys are, much less the pink slip. Then there are trucks that are or were stolen and have no paperwork at all. You’re going to find all of these trucks and more for sale.
You’ll also find trucks that have a salvage title. If you’ve ever had a vehicle that was in a serious accident, you know the basics: the truck was in a serious accident and the insurance company feels it was a total loss, making it unroadworthy or prohibitively expensive to repair. If the owner wants to buy the truck back, they can get it with a salvage title. Alternatively, sometimes the vehicles are sold at auction, and a wrecking yard or someone similar scoops it up for a bargain. Either way, the salvage title is a black mark on the vehicle itself and it will never go away. (There is an exception, and that’s called a restored title. For the purposes of your truck hunt, however, let’s treat them as one and the same.)
The C20 Issue
The C-series trucks—C10, C20, C30—are all two-wheel drives. But only the C10 is a 1/2-ton pickup, which is what most people are looking for as a project. The C20 is a 3/4-ton truck, and a C30 is a 1-ton dually—which usually has a flatbed or similar attachment on the back end.
You’re going to bump into a lot of people selling their C20s who won’t necessarily tell you that it’s the heavier-duty truck. The thing to look at is the wheels. C20s have an 8-lug bolt pattern, while the C10s have either 5 or 6 lugs.
Now that doesn’t have to be a bad thing. The frames on those models are a little bit thicker, and you can easily convert the suspension to a 1/2-ton model with a new set of spindles and either ditch the leaf springs for trailing arms or get 1/2-ton leafs. Of course, that also means the truck you’re buying could have that very same conversion, so check the VIN and compare it with the chart in this book to be sure it’s the correct model.
Ultimately, whether you buy a C20 and convert it to a C10 or not is up to you. On the one hand, it’s an opportunity to get a truck with the bodystyle you want at a potentially cheaper price. On the other, you’re not really restoring the C20; you’re making it into a C10. It’s your call. ■
So why is that a big deal? Trucks with a salvage title always sell for less money because at one point or another someone thought they were unsafe to drive or too expensive to repair—an important distinction. Sometimes it’s just a cost factor. You can buy a salvage-title truck, swap over the frame, and technically have a perfectly running vehicle. But it will always be worth less money than the exact same truck without the salvage title—even if you just buy a cab with a good title and build the truck yourself.
Now, that doesn’t mean a salvage-title truck is a total loss. You can use it as a parts truck, which is pretty much like it sounds: a truck that you use strictly for parts, not to rebuild. If you can get the truck cheap enough and the parts would ultimately cost you more, then it might be worth the purchase.
Customized Versus Stock
Everyone has taste. Not all of it is good.
Every truck you look at has had more than 40 years of owners tinkering with their setups. Sometimes it’s as simple as installing a new carburetor; other times it’s a new front clip and a paint job. Customized trucks come in all shapes and forms, plus varying levels of customization. But if you can avoid it, steer clear of buying one.
A customized truck is not a stock truck. At its core, that’s the nuts and bolts of the whole thing, and it means that if you’re performing a restoration where you want to bring the truck back up to stock specifications, then you’re buying something that’s incomplete or inaccurate. If you end up buying replacement parts for one reason or another, you’ll have no idea if it will work with what’s already been done.
Then there’s the quality of the whole thing. You may be a meticulous car builder who sweats the details. But who knows whether or not the custom truck you’re looking at went through that same level of care. Let’s say you found a long-bed truck that was converted to a short-bed. How do you know if it was welded properly? Does it have enough reinforcement? And—here’s the big one—were the frame and bed cut down correctly? The conversion process is explained later in the book, but suffice it to say that it’s not as simple as taking out an arbitrary amount from a random spot. And if the previous owner messed with the bed, what else did he or she mess with?
And finally, let’s talk about abandoned projects. If you’re buying someone’s truck and it’s essentially a trailer full of parts and a Folgers can packed with bolts, you’re in for a world of hurt. If you didn’t take it apart, then you have no idea how it should go back together. Remember that when you’re shopping around.
A custom truck can look beautiful on the showgrounds, but no one other than the builder really knows what’s going on underneath the paint. Be careful before you pick up something that’s been modified.
Rust Versus No Rust
If you open up the Phoenix site for Craigslist you can find at least a dozen 1967–1972 Chevy trucks for sale at any one time. If you do the same thing in Vermont, you might find one—and it’s in upstate New York. But even trucks in the Southwestern United States can see rust, and that’s something you should be looking for with your next project.
You’re going to find rust in the usual spots: wheel arches, bedsides, rockers, cab corners, and cowl. There’s also a spot or two in the interior of the truck down by the firewall. Another is up front under the battery, and the fenders themselves can collect a fair amount of damage.
That’s the key word here: damage. Rust on its own is typically manageable. There are plenty of companies out there that sell replacement sheet metal, and part of this book is dedicated to the subject.
After it came back from media blasting, this truck revealed a ton of rust in the cowl and firewall areas. (Photo Courtesy Lonnie Thompson, Carolina Kustoms)
There are two things to know about rust. First, there’s always more of it than you can see. So if you can find rust in the rockers, cowl, and doors, expect that there’s more of it under the paint. Second, rust is fixable. You can patch it with new panels from the aftermarket or make pieces yourself. The question is how comfortable you are with making those repairs. If you’re not, then spend more time (and money) looking for a truck with as little rust as possible.
Paperwork
We’ve already talked about getting a truck with a title and bill of sale. But these trucks also have other paperwork: build sheets, manuals, and Protect-O-Plates. Let’s take a moment to go through those three.
Build sheets are there as a reference for both the dealer and the manufacturer. Sometimes you can find them hidden in the seat backs, and other times they’re in the glove box. But either way, they give you an inside look at what’s actually supposed to be on the truck, not just what the seller tells you.
The Protect-O-Plate is a piece of metal that used to be needed when you took your truck in for service. The dealer would use it to stamp information on your truck onto their invoicing, and then you had a record. As a result, not all of these Protect-O-Plates are intact, but if you can find one, they’re usually in the manual.
Beyond just the owner’s manual, these trucks also came with emissions guides, inspection paperwork, and more.
This is a build sheet from a 1969 Chevrolet short-bed. The owner lives in Arizona, and as it turns out, the truck was sold in the state too. Paperwork like this makes the truck all the more valuable to the collector.
The information stamped on the Protect-O-Plate is specific for that truck and can’t be swapped from one to another.
The manual itself is just what you’d think: the instructions for the truck. And although you probably don’t need them at this point, they add to the value of the vehicle.
That’s the key with all of these things. The more you have, the more potential value you have in your properly restored truck. If you can find these things when you buy your project truck to begin with, you’ll be ahead of the game.
Determining Skill Level
The argument could be made that this is the most difficult step of the process. How do you know what you’re capable of before you take on the project?
Take a moment and flip through this book. Have you done a lot of these things before? Do you know how to weld? Have you ever painted a truck, car, or anything? Do you have any bodywork experience? Ask yourself questions like these and start to realistically assess what you can and can’t do, or what you do or don’t feel comfortable doing yourself.
Once you have that in your head, start writing down the parts of the project that you’re confident you can perform yourself in one column; list the things you’re not as sure about in another. If there’s anything else that’s in the middle, put that in a third. It could look like this:
| Can Do |
| Painting |
| Bodywork |
| Metalwork |
| Polishing |
| Drivetrain |
| Uncertain |
| Suspension |
| Brakes |
| Can’t Do |
| Transmission |
| Alignment |
| Interior |
| Engine Rebuilding |
For the sake of this example, let’s say that’s your list. If you’re iffy about doing the suspension and brakes, for example, then you should spend more time in those chapters learning about what to do. Once you become more confident, you can take them on yourself. And with the things you are good with—metalwork, according to the list—you should be good to go.
As for the Can’t Do column, those are the things that you’re going to have to subcontract out. Someone else is going to do that work for you, and unless they owe you a lot of favors, it’s not going to be for free. Make sure to budget properly for those tasks before you get started, otherwise your relatively simple restoration could turn into a disaster.
There is one other issue here, and that’s the intimidation factor. Coming into a restoration project as a new build can be super intimidating. There’s no doubt that it’s a big job you’ll spend thousands of hours doing and probably a few thousand dollars. That can be daunting if it’s your first build—heck, even if it’s your 20th.
If that’s your issue, remember this: All these trucks were built, designed, and put together by people. Computers weren’t used when they laid out the hood shape, it was drafting tables and slide rulers. You can do all this work yourself. All it takes is time. And if you’re unsure of how to do something, look it up here in this book. Chances are it’s here. And if not, take your time and figure it out. There’s no race, and no prize for being the first one done.
Just remember the advice that a master fabricator once gave to a kid from Arizona who was cutting up his first truck: “It’s only metal. And they make that stuff all day long.”
Don’t let the scale of your restoration project get you down. Focus on the process, and everything will get done in due time. (Photo Courtesy Mark Burdo)
