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CHAPTER 2 STARTERS
ОглавлениеSome people underestimate the value and importance of starters (appetizers). A good starter should excite and test all of the senses, setting the ball rolling for a most enjoyable meal.
In the restaurant, we find that the starters are where our guests are most daring with what they order and willing to experiment with something new. Often, they may even select two starters instead of a main course.
There are two occasions when you’ll want to use this chapter. You may need a starter for a dinner party, but there are also many recipes here that are suitable as light lunch options. I have tried to give a variety of meat, fish and vegetarian ideas to help with your home entertaining needs. I also believe that a main prerequisite for a dinner party is that at least one of your courses can be prepared in advance, so many of the recipes in this section can be prepared ahead of time and enjoyed later, when you are ready for them.
VEGETARIAN SPRING ROLLS
These spring rolls are a great ‘Get Out of Jail Free’ card, in that you can turn to them when you need a kitchen shortcut. They can be quickly made up from fresh, or made ahead and kept in the freezer until needed. In this recipe I have used only vegetables, but of course you could add some duck, chicken, fish or beef into the mix as well. If you can’t find spring roll pastry then use filo (phyllo) pastry instead but put two sheets together as it isn’t as strong as spring roll pastry.
SERVES 8 (V)
Sunflower oil, for cooking
½ green chilli, diced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and diced
2.5cm/1in piece fresh root ginger (gingerroot), peeled and diced
2 celery sticks, sliced into 5cm/2in strips
1 leek (white part only), sliced into 5cm/2in strips
1 carrot, peeled and sliced into 5cm/2in strips
1 red onion, peeled and sliced into 5cm/2in strips
1½ (bell) peppers, mixed colours, sliced into 5cm/2in strips
50g/2oz cabbage, shredded into 5cm/2in strips
50g/2oz/½ cup beansprouts
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp sweet chilli sauce
8 sheets spring roll pastry
EGG WASH
1 egg
50ml/2fl oz/¼ cup milk
1 Heat a large wok then add a little oil. When the oil is hot, add the chilli, garlic and ginger and cook gently for 2–3 minutes. Add the vegetables and season lightly with salt and pepper and stir-fry for 3–4 minutes until the vegetables are beginning to soften. When the vegetables are fully cooked, add the chilli sauce. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and allow to cool completely.
2 For the egg wash, mix the egg and milk together and set aside.
3 Lay one sheet of the spring roll pastry on the work surface (counter) so that one of the corners points towards you. Brush around the edges with a little of the egg wash and then spoon about 1 tablespoon of the vegetable filling in a line near the top corner. Fold over to enclose then roll it towards you a little. Fold in the sides and continue to roll up into a nice cylindrical shape. Place the roll on a non-stick baking sheet and repeat with the remaining ingredients until you have eight spring rolls in total. Lightly brush with the remaining egg wash and chill for 30 minutes.
4 When ready to serve, pour enough oil into a deep-fat fryer or deep-sided saucepan to a depth of 6–7.5cm/2½–3in and heat to 180°C (350°F) or until a small piece of white bread turns golden brown in about 30 seconds. Deep-fry the spring rolls for 3–4 minutes or until crisp on all sides and lightly golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain well on kitchen paper (paper towels).
5 To serve, use a sharp knife to cut off the very ends of each spring roll so that they will sit well on the plate, then cut each one in half on the diagonal. These are delicious served with some additional sweet chilli sauce.
SPICED CHICKPEA CAKES
These spicy cakes are a delicious vegetarian starter and will definitely be a favourite with your guests.
SERVES 6 (V)
1 x 400g tin (can) chickpeas, rinsed and drained
Sunflower oil, for frying
½ red chilli, finely chopped
1 (bell) pepper, diced (½ green and ½ red)
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
1 red onion, peeled and finely chopped
2.5cm/1in piece fresh root ginger (gingerroot), peeled and chopped
1 tbsp natural (plain) yoghurt
2 tsp curry powder 2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander (cilantro)
Plain (all-purpose) flour, for dusting
Large salad, to serve
1 Put the drained chickpeas into a food processor and blitz to a coarse purée.
2 Heat a little oil in a pan, add the chilli, peppers, garlic, onion and ginger and fry until soft. Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool.
3 Transfer the chickpea purée to a large bowl, add the vegetable mixture and mix together until combined. Add the yoghurt, curry powder and coriander. Using floured hands, divide the mixture into 12 balls then shape into little patties.
4 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4.
5 Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a large pan and fry the chickpea cakes, in batches, on both sides then bake in the oven for 10–12 minutes until piping hot. Serve immediately with a large salad.
POACHED PEARS WITH CASHEL BLUE CHEESE
The flavour of blue cheese works wonderfully with poached pears. I chose to include this recipe in the starters chapter, but it could also be served as a dessert because it’s almost a cross between a pudding and a cheeseboard.
SERVES 4 (V)
4 firm, ripe pears
1 small lemon, cut into quarters
1 small orange, cut into quarters
250g/9oz/1¼ cups caster (superfine) sugar
500ml/18fl oz/generous 2 cups red wine
350g/12oz Cashel Blue cheese
1 Peel the pears, leaving the stalks in place, and remove the cores. Stand them upright in a pan large enough to fit the pears comfortably and add the lemon, orange, sugar and wine. Add a little water if the pears are not completely covered in liquid then bring to a simmer. Cook for 40–45 minutes or until the pears are completely tender. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool in the liquid for at least 2 hours or preferably overnight.
2 When ready to serve, drain the poaching liquid from the pears into a small pan and simmer over a low heat until reduced by half or until thickened and syrupy.
3 To serve, arrange the pears on four serving plates and, using a knife, cut into slices, leaving the stalks intact, then fan out the slices decoratively. Drizzle a little of the reduced syrup over each one – the remainder can be served in a small jug (pitcher) separately.
4 Slice the Cashel Blue cheese into thick wedges and arrange decoratively on the plates with the pears.
TIP
A soft goat’s cheese also works very well with the pears.
ROASTED GARLIC RISOTTO
Many people panic at the idea of making risotto, but it is actually a very simple dish to create. The critical stage is at the addition of the stock – the best approach is to add just a little at a time and to continue tasting the rice until you are happy with its consistency.
SERVES 6–8
1 head of garlic, unpeeled
Salt and cracked black pepper
700ml/1¼ pints/3 cups chicken stock (see Chapter 5)
25g/1oz/¼ stick butter
2 shallots, peeled and finely diced
½ tsp chopped fresh thyme
350g/12oz/generous 1½ cups Arborio (risotto) rice
½ glass dry white wine
100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup pouring cream (optional)
75g/3oz/¾ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra to serve (optional)
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas mark 4.
2 Cut the garlic in half across, place in a small roasting tin and sprinkle with some salt. Roast the garlic for 35 minutes or until it has softened. Allow to cool and then squeeze all of the flesh out.
3 Bring the chicken stock to the boil in a saucepan.
4 Slowly melt the butter in a wide heavy-based saucepan over a low heat, add the diced shallots and thyme and cook very gently until the shallots have completely softened. Add the rice and stir well to make sure that it does not stick to the base of the pan, then cook over a low heat for 3–4 minutes, stirring constantly. This allows the rice to become glazed with the butter. Next, add the white wine and continue to stir until the wine is absorbed.
5 Add a ladleful of the boiling stock to the rice and stir. Continue to stir and add the stock little by little and never adding the next ladle until the previous one has been absorbed. It is important not to rush this process and to continue to add all of the liquid until the rice is plump and tender.
6 Season the risotto now with salt and pepper and stir in the roasted garlic purée. If you wish to have a nice rich and creamy risotto, add the cream and Parmesan cheese now. Adding just Parmesan will also make the risotto creamy. Serve immediately with additional Parmesan cheese, if you like.
TIP
It’s important to keep the chicken stock hot at all times. If the stock is allowed to cool it will make the risotto stodgy.
BAKED EGGS WITH SPINACH AND PARMESAN
What a lovely option for a tasty breakfast in bed! For a spicier version, try adding a little chorizo to the spinach. If you don’t want to use spinach you could use thinly sliced leeks.
SERVES 4
A small knob of butter
110g/4oz/3 cups baby spinach leaves, washed and thoroughly dried
A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
8 eggs
4 tbsp pouring cream
75g/3oz/¾ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Cracked black pepper
Well-buttered toast, to serve
EQUIPMENT
Four small ramekins or ovenproof dishes
1 Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F), Gas mark 5.
2 Begin by heating a frying pan with the butter and cooking the spinach over a high heat for about 1 minute or until the spinach has wilted. Once this has happened, sprinkle the spinach with the nutmeg – not too much, or it makes the dish very highly flavoured, which is undesirable.
3 Transfer the spinach to a fine sieve (strainer) and allow it to drain all the excess liquid. Push the spinach with the back of a spoon if that helps.
4 Divide the spinach among the four ramekins and then crack two eggs on top of each portion of spinach. Pour 1 tablespoon of cream over the eggs and then sprinkle the grated Parmesan over the top. Season with cracked black pepper.
5 Put the ramekins on a flat baking sheet and bake in the oven for about 15 minutes or until the eggs have just set. Serve immediately with slices of well-buttered toast.
DEEP-FRIED BRIE WITH PLUM CHUTNEY
I love all types of cheese, but I love it even more when it’s cooked. This is an old-fashioned style of recipe, but it is one of my favourites that I make quite regularly as a starter (appetizer) for Sunday lunch. The tartness of the plum chutney contrasts nicely with the soft creaminess of the cheese.
SERVES 4–6 (V)
450g/1lb Brie
50g/2oz/1/3 cup plain (all-purpose) flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg beaten with about 100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup milk
175g/6oz/3½ cups fresh white breadcrumbs
1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
Vegetable or sunflower oil, for deep-frying
Salad leaves (salad greens), to serve
PLUM CHUTNEY
4 plums, stoned (pitted) and diced into rough chunks
1 large cooking apple, peeled, cored and diced
50g/2oz/1/3 cup sultanas (golden raisins)
2 tsp sunflower oil
50g/2oz/¼ cup (solidly packed) brown sugar
50ml/2fl oz/¼ cup red wine
50ml/2fl oz/¼ cup red wine vinegar
1 small cinnamon stick
1 Begin by making the plum chutney. Place the diced plums into a large saucepan with the diced apples, sultanas and the oil and cook gently until the pan is slightly heated. Next add the brown sugar and stir until it has dissolved and coated the fruit in a light caramel layer. Pour in the red wine and wine vinegar and bring to the boil. Pop in the cinnamon stick and allow the mixture to cook for at least 10 minutes over a medium heat or until all of the liquid is reduced. Transfer to a sterilised jar and store until required. This chutney will happily keep for 5–7 weeks.
2 To make the deep-fried Brie, cut the Brie cheese into large wedges.
3 Prepare three bowls, one with the flour with the addition of a little salt and pepper, a second with the beaten egg and milk and a third with the breadcrumbs and chopped parsley.
4 Put the cheese wedges into the seasoned flour and turn until coated, then shake off the flour. Transfer the cheese wedges to the egg and milk mixture, turn until coated then shake off the excess and place in the breadcrumbs and turn until coated. If you are nervous of the cheese melting too much in the deep-fat fryer, you could repeat the entire process again to give a second coating. Transfer the cheese to the fridge and allow to rest until you are ready to cook it.
5 Heat the oil for deep-frying in a deep-fat fryer or deep-sided saucepan to 180°C (350°F) or until a small piece of white bread turns golden brown in about 30 seconds. Carefully drop the cheese wedges into the hot oil and deep-fry for about 2 minutes or until the breadcrumbs have turned golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper (paper towels). Serve immediately with a large spoonful of the plum chutney and some fresh salad leaves.
POTTED SHRIMP
The beauty of this starter (appetizer) is how few ingredients it needs and how quick it is to make. One of my personal favourites, Catherine and I often have this for supper, but I also like to make it for dinner parties as it’s a stylish dish, perfect for formal occasions.
SERVES 6
110g/4oz/1 stick butter
450g/1lb raw langoustines (Norway lobster), peeled and de-veined
½ tsp cayenne pepper
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 small fresh thyme sprigs
TO SERVE
Brown bread
Lemon wedges
Green salad
EQUIPMENT
6 small pots or ramekins
1 Heat the butter in a large wide-based saucepan, add the langoustines together with the cayenne pepper and heat gently without boiling. Once the langoustines are gently cooked, season lightly with a little salt and pepper then divide the langoustines among the small pots or ramekins and press down gently.
2 Divide any of the remaining butter still in the pan among the pots or ramekins then put a small sprig of thyme on top of the butter and, using a spoon, press it down into the butter slightly. Grind some black pepper over the top.
3 Place the pots or ramekins in the fridge for a few hours until set. Serve the potted shrimp with some brown bread, lemon wedges and a large green salad.
ROASTED VEGETABLE SALAD
This salad is substantial enough to serve on its own, or can be served as part of a barbecue or buffet. You could also try adding some Parmesan shavings or chunks of feta or goat’s cheese for an extra element. The salad will keep happily in the fridge for 3–4 days.
SERVES 6–8 (V)
2 aubergines (eggplants), chopped into large chunks or slices
3 red (bell) peppers, chopped into large chunks or slices
3 green (bell) peppers, chopped into large chunks or slices
2 courgettes (zucchini), chopped into large chunks or slices
1 red onion, unpeeled and quartered
1 garlic bulb, unpeeled and chopped
3 ripe plum tomatoes, chopped into large chunks
5 tbsp olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
A pinch of chopped fresh rosemary
A pinch of chopped fresh thyme
3 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F), Gas mark 5.
2 Place all the vegetables in a large roasting tray and drizzle with about 2 tablespoons of olive oil then season lightly with a little salt and pepper. Add the chopped rosemary and thyme to the tray and roast in the oven for 20–25 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.
3 Once the roasted vegetables are cool, peel the onion and garlic and place them with the remaining vegetables in a large bowl with the rest of the olive oil, the balsamic vinegar and parsley. Season to taste and stir gently to combine. Either use immediately or chill, covered with clingfilm (plastic wrap), until ready to use. Just make sure to give it enough time to come back up to room temperature first. To serve, spoon the roasted vegetable salad on to serving plates.
TIP
Alternatively, cook the sliced vegetables on a hot barbecue (grill). Mix together the remaining olive oil, the vinegar and the parsley and pour over the roasted vegetables.
WARM SALAD OF GORGONZOLA CHEESE AND HONEY ROASTED PEACHES
The sweetness of the fruit in this salad works wonderfully alongside the delicious creamy flavour of the cheese. It’s a beautifully simple recipe but one that looks and tastes gorgeous and your guests will be talking about it long after the meal has finished.
SERVES 4
25g/1oz/¼ stick butter
4 large peaches, halved or quartered and stoned (pitted)
150ml/5fl oz/2/3 cup runny honey
Juice of ½ lemon
2 fresh thyme sprigs
Mixed lettuce leaves (salad greens)
110g/4oz Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
1 Melt the butter in a large frying pan until bubbling, add the peaches and mix them around until they are coated in the butter. Cook gently for 2 minutes until just beginning to soften. Add the honey to the pan together with the lemon juice and the thyme, then bring the mixture to the boil and cook for 1–2 minutes until the peaches are fully caramelised, which will happen because of the honey reduction. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the mixture to cool slightly for a moment or two.
2 Arrange the lettuce leaves in large bowls. Top with the crumbled Gorgonzola cheese and neatly arrange the roasted peaches on top. Drizzle with the thyme-infused honey left in the pan and serve.
ROASTED VEGETABLE COUSCOUS SALAD
Couscous itself can be quite bland, so it’s important to add lots of different flavours, such as these roasted vegetables, to really bring it to life.
SERVES 6–8
1½ mixed (bell) peppers, such as red, green and yellow, chopped into bite-sized pieces
1 large red onion, peeled and chopped into bite-sized pieces
1 large courgette (zucchini), chopped into bite-sized pieces
1 small aubergine (eggplant), chopped into bite-sized pieces
12 cherry tomatoes, diced
25ml/1fl oz/1/8 cup olive oil
225g/8oz/11/3 cups couscous
500ml/18fl oz/generous 2 cups chicken stock (see Chapter 5)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Juice and finely grated zest of 1 lemon
4 tsp chopped fresh mint
4 tsp Basil Pesto (see Chapter 5)
1 Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F), Gas mark 5
2 Arrange the chopped vegetables on a baking tray, scatter the cherry tomatoes on top and drizzle with some of the olive oil. Roast in the oven for 15 minutes then allow to cool.
3 Place the couscous in a heatproof bowl. Bring the stock to the boil in a saucepan and pour over the couscous. Cover the bowl and set aside to rest for 10 minutes.
4 Use a fork to shake up the couscous then add the vegetables. Season well with salt and pepper, then mix in the lemon zest and juice, mint and remaining olive oil. Add the pesto and mix to bind it all together. Taste and adjust the seasoning accordingly, then either serve immediately or chill in the fridge until ready to serve.
CAESAR SALAD
Caesar salad must be the most popular salad in existence, judging by how frequently it gets ordered in restaurants. It is a very simple dish to make at home and is suitable as a starter (appetizer) or alternatively as a light lunch.
SERVES 4–6
4 slices of bread (slightly stale bread is best)
Sunflower oil, for cooking
175g/6oz/2/3 cup bacon lardons
1 large head cos (romaine) lettuce
75g/3oz/¾ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
CAESAR DRESSING
50g/2oz/½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
3 egg yolks
3 garlic cloves, peeled
25g/1oz tinned (canned) anchovies
350ml/12fl oz/1½ cups olive or sunflower oil (sometimes a combination is nice)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Begin by making the Caesar dressing. Put the Parmesan cheese, egg yolks, garlic and anchovies into a food processor and blitz to a rough paste. Don’t over-process or the eggs will over-thicken. It is possible to add the oil to the food processor, but the dressing may curdle and split, so I prefer to transfer the egg and anchovy paste to a large mixing bowl, then slowly pour in the oil and whisk thoroughly until the mixture has emulsified. Season to taste and store in the fridge until required. If the dressing is too thick whisk in a little milk or water to thin it down.
2 Meanwhile, cut the crusts off the bread then cut the bread into 1cm/½in cubes. Heat a large frying pan with a little oil. Add the cubes of bread to the hot pan and stir constantly until lightly browned. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper (paper towels). Store until required (these can be stored for up to 1 week in an airtight container).
3 Clean out the pan and heat it, again with a little oil. Add the bacon lardons and allow them to brown up nicely. Cooking them on quite a high heat allows them to get nice and crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.
4 To assemble the salad, tear the lettuce into a large mixing bowl. Add the bacon lardons and the croûtons then add a couple of tablespoons of the dressing to the salad and toss until coated. Transfer the salad to a large serving bowl and top with the grated Parmesan cheese.
VARIATION
Feel free to substitute the bacon for some poached or smoked chicken or salmon.
EGG MAYONNAISE
This recipe has really stood the test of time. It is most recognised these days as a sandwich filling, but I adore it and think it’s good enough to be served as a starter (appetizer). It is best enjoyed simply with a slice of nice brown bread.
SERVES 6 (V)
6 fresh eggs
1 small head iceberg lettuce, finely shredded
A pinch of paprika
Brown bread, to serve
MAYONNAISE
2 egg yolks
½ tsp dry mustard powder
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
2 tsp white wine vinegar
250ml/9fl oz/1 cup sunflower oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
POSSIBLE GARNISHES
Tomatoes
Cucumber
Finely diced (bell) peppers
Spring onions (scallions) Red onions
Grated carrot
Beetroot (beet)
1 To make the mayonnaise, place the egg yolks, mustard powder, crushed garlic and wine vinegar in a large mixing bowl and whisk well until combined, using either a hand whisk or an electric whisk. Very slowly begin to add the oil. For the first few drops beat it in very well between each addition then continue to pour in the oil and whisk well to allow the mixture to emulsify. If the mayonnaise is a little thick, you can whisk in 2 tablespoons of boiling water to correct the consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper and store in a glass jar in the fridge for 3–4 days until required.
2 Meanwhile, place the eggs in a large saucepan of cold salted water, bring to the boil and boil for 6–8 minutes. Remove the eggs from the water with a slotted spoon and place in a large sieve (strainer). Leave them under cold running water for about 4–6 minutes until the eggs are completely cold. This will prevent a black or darkened rim forming around the cooked egg yolk. Once the eggs have cooled, peel and leave in the fridge until required.
3 Meanwhile, prepare the serving plate. I normally put a little finely shredded iceberg lettuce on the plate and then arrange two halves of one egg on top of the lettuce. Garnish the plate as desired with some of the suggested garnishes and place a large spoonful of the mayonnaise on top of the egg. Sprinkle with a little paprika and serve with slices of brown bread.
CURRIED VEGETABLE SAMOSAS
This is party food at its best. These samosas have a mild curried flavour but you can vary the flavour as much as you like. This recipe is for vegetarian samosas, but it can also be a great way to use up any leftover bits of meat, such as cooked chicken or duck; just shred and add in with the vegetables.
SERVES 6 (V)
sunflower oil
1 red (bell) pepper, thinly sliced
1 green (bell) pepper, thinly sliced
1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
75g/3oz cauliflower, broken into florets
75g/3oz/¾ cup beansprouts
75g/3oz/¾ cup mangetout (snow peas)
1 tsp Thai green curry paste
½ tsp ground cumin
2 tbsp chilli jam
1 packet of filo (phyllo) pastry, naturally thawed
About 110g/4oz/1 stick butter, melted
Vegetable or sunflower oil, for deep-frying (optional)
Mango chutney or a dipping sauce, to serve
1 Heat a large wok with a little oil, and when hot, add all the vegetables and stir-fry for about 2–3 minutes until they are lightly glazed. Next add the curry paste and stir-fry until the vegetables are coated in the paste. Add the cumin and chilli jam and stir-fry for a few minutes until everything has combined with the flavours and heated through. Transfer the vegetables to a bowl and allow to cool.
2 Meanwhile, lay the filo pastry sheets on the work surface (counter) and cut the sheets into 18cm/7in squares. Brush each individual square with melted butter and stick about three squares directly on top of each other to make the samosas strong enough.
3 Place a spoonful of the vegetable mixture in the centre of one of the pastry squares then fold over and secure tightly into a triangular shape. You can use a little additional melted butter if required, which will act as a glue to secure the pastry in place. Repeat this process with the remaining pastry and vegetable mixture. Store in the fridge until ready to cook.
4 Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F), Gas mark 5 or heat enough oil for deep-frying in a deep-fat fryer or deep-sided saucepan to 180°C (350°F) or until a small piece of white bread turns golden brown in about 30 seconds. If baking in the oven, brush the samosas with the remaining melted butter then place on a baking tray lined with parchment paper and bake for 5–6 minutes on each side. Alternatively, deep-fry in the hot oil for 45 seconds until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.
5 Serve the samosas with mango chutney or a dipping sauce.
TIP
Spring roll pastry, available from Asian markets, tends to be more resilient than filo pastry, so use that if you prefer.
TIGER PRAWNS WITH A MANGO SALSA
I love how tiger prawns (jumbo shrimp) have such a delicate flavour but with a great meaty texture. Mango is the perfect accompaniment; the combination of the two makes for a delicious light summer starter (appetizer)!
SERVES 4
4 slices of crusty bread
1 tbsp olive or sunflower oil
16 tiger prawns (jumbo shrimp)
Juice of ½ lime
Cracked black pepper
MANGO SALSA
1 large firm mango
1 bunch of spring onions (scallions), trimmed and chopped
1 tbsp chopped fresh coriander (cilantro)
½ red chilli
50ml/2fl oz/¼ cup olive oil
Juice of ½ lime
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Begin by preparing the mango salsa. Choose a mango that is not too soft. An over-ripe mango will make a very soggy salsa. Cut the mango into 5mm/¼in cubes and place in a small bowl with the chopped spring onions and coriander.
2 Finely dice the red chilli and add this to the salsa as well. Make sure the chilli is diced very finely, as large chunks of chilli are unpleasant. Next pour in the olive oil and the lime juice then season lightly. Store in the fridge until required.
3 Preheat the barbecue or a griddle pan (grill pan). Brush the slices of bread with a little oil and toast on the barbecue or the griddle pan until golden brown on both sides.
4 Place the tiger prawns in a large bowl then sprinkle with the lime juice and a little cracked black pepper. Place the prawns on the barbecue or griddle pan and cook for about 2 minutes on each side.
5 Remove the prawns from the barbecue or griddle pan and serve on top of a piece of toasted bread with a spoonful of the mango salsa.
ASIAN CRAB CAKES
I normally make these fancy fishcakes as a starter (appetizer), but they are also good as a main course (entrée). You can buy ready-prepared crabmeat, or use whole crabs and save the shells for the Crab Bisque in Chapter 2.
SERVES 6–12
3 large potatoes, unpeeled
450g/1lb prepared crabmeat
2 tsp sunflower oil, plus extra 2 tbsp for frying
½ red chilli, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
½ red onion, peeled and finely chopped
2.5cm/1in piece fresh root ginger (gingerroot), peeled and grated
1 large egg yolk
Sweet chilli jam, to serve
COATING
75g/3oz/½ cup plain (all-purpose) flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 large eggs mixed with 5 tbsp milk
200g/7oz/4 cups fresh white breadcrumbs
1 tbsp sesame seeds
1 tsp dried chilli flakes
1 Cook the potatoes in a large saucepan of boiling water for about 15–20 minutes or until tender. Drain and set aside until cool enough to handle, then peel them. Return the potatoes to the pan and mash. Allow to cool.
2 Pick through the crabmeat to make sure that there are no bones or traces of shell.
3 Heat the 2 teaspoons of oil in a frying pan, add the chilli, garlic, onion and ginger and fry until everything has softened, then remove from the heat and allow to cool.
4 Once the potatoes and chilli mixture are cold, mix the potatoes, crabmeat and chilli mixture together with the egg yolk. Using damp hands, divide the mixture into 6–12 balls and flatten slightly into round cakes.
5 For the coating, prepare three bowls, one with seasoned flour, a second with the beaten egg and milk and a third with fresh breadcrumbs mixed with sesame seeds and chilli flakes.
6 Put the crab cakes into the seasoned flour and roll until coated, then shake off the flour. Transfer the cakes to the egg and milk mixture and turn until coated then shake off the excess. Place the crab cakes in the breadcrumbs and roll until coated all over. Place the crab cakes on a plate.
7 Heat the 2 tablespoons of oil in a large pan and fry the crab cakes for 2–3 minutes on each side until piping hot. Alternatively, bake them in an oven preheated to 190°C (375°F), Gas mark 5, for 12–15 minutes or until piping hot. Serve immediately with sweet chilli jam.
SMOKED SALMON WITH PICKLED CUCUMBER AND CITRUS CREME FRAICHE
I’m a firm believer that smoked salmon should be served as plain and as simply as possible. So I love this combination of ingredients, because the light flavours of the cucumber and lemon don’t overwhelm the fish.
SERVES 4
1 large cucumber
150ml/5fl oz/2/3 cup rice wine vinegar
4 tsp caster (superfine) sugar
¼ tsp chopped fresh dill
Cracked black pepper
1 shallot, peeled and very finely diced
CITRUS CREME FRAICHE
75g/3oz/1/3 cup crème fraîche
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
TO SERVE
4 large slices of smoked salmon
Salad leaves (salad greens)
2 lemons, cut into wedges
1 To make the citrus crème fraîche, place the crème fraîche in a mixing bowl and whisk for a moment or two to soften it. Add the grated lemon zest, grated lime zest and juice, chopped parsley and seasoning and mix well to incorporate. Transfer to a clean bowl and store in the fridge until required.
2 To pickle the cucumber, using a vegetable peeler, slice the cucumber into very long thin strips, then with a very sharp knife, cut each strip into long ribbons and place in a bowl. Be careful not to add any of the seeds, as this can make the pickled cucumber very soggy.
3 Gently heat the rice wine vinegar and sugar together in a small saucepan. Do not bring the mixture to the boil but merely a gentle simmer. Add the chopped dill, some cracked black pepper and the finely diced shallot to the bowl with the cucumber and then pour the warmed vinegar and sugar mixture on top. Allow this mixture to cool and if possible allow it to infuse and develop in flavour for a number of days before using.
4 To serve, arrange a slice of salmon flat on a serving platter. Garnish with some mixed lettuce leaves and lemon wedges. Place a dollop of citrus crème fraîche on the platter with the salmon and arrange a small pile of pickled cucumber on the side.
SALMON SALADE NICOISE
This particular recipe is a variation on the classic Provençal favourite, as it uses salmon instead of tuna. I like to serve it with a well-chilled, high-acidity white wine, to complement the strong flavours of the dish, such as Bellet or Palette, which you can find in most good off-licences.
SERVES 4
4 portions of salmon, about 175g/6oz each
8 new potatoes, scraped or scrubbed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 quails’ eggs, at room temperature
110g/4oz/¾ cup extra-fine French beans (green beans), trimmed
4 Little Gem (Boston) lettuce hearts, quartered lengthways and separated
4 ripe plum tomatoes, roughly chopped
1 red onion, peeled and finely sliced
6 anchovy fillets, cut lengthways into thin strips
16 black olives in brine, pitted and drained
8 fresh basil leaves, torn
MARINADE
100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tbsp aged red wine vinegar
2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tbsp snipped fresh chives
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 To make the marinade, place all the ingredients in a bowl, add 1 teaspoon each of salt and pepper, and whisk to combine.
2 Place the salmon in a shallow non-metallic dish and pour over half of the marinade. Cover with clingfilm (plastic wrap) and chill for 1–2 hours to allow the flavours to penetrate the salmon, turning every 30 minutes or so.
3 Place the potatoes in a pan of boiling salted water, then cover, reduce the heat and simmer for 10–12 minutes or until just tender. Drain and leave to cool completely, then cut into quarters lengthways.
4 Place the quails’ eggs in a small pan and just cover with boiling water then cook for 4 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold running water, then remove the shells and cut each egg in half. Plunge the French beans into a pan of boiling salted water and blanch for a minute or so, then drain and refresh under cold running water.
5 Heat a griddle pan (grill pan) for 5 minutes. Remove the salmon from the marinade, shaking off any excess and set any remaining marinade aside. Cook the salmon for 5–6 minutes on each side, depending on how thick it is. When cooked, the fish should feel quite firm to the touch.
6 Arrange the lettuce leaves on serving plates or one large platter and add the potatoes, French beans, tomatoes, onion and anchovies. Put the salmon on top and drizzle over the remaining marinade. Scatter over the quails’ eggs, olives and torn basil leaves to serve.
PAN-ROASTED SCALLOPS WITH A BRANDY CREAM REDUCTION
Scallops are a fabulous starter (appetizer) and serving them with a small amount of this rich sauce turns them into a delightful special-occasion treat.
SERVES 4
1 leek, trimmed
1 carrot, peeled
12 large scallops, corals removed
Salt and cracked black pepper
Sunflower oil, for drizzling
25g/1oz/¼ stick butter
1½ tbsp brandy
200ml/7fl oz/generous ¾ cup pouring cream
4 tsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus extra sprigs to garnish
250ml/9fl oz/1 cup sunflower oil 1
large sweet potato
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Chop the leek and carrot into very thin strips and set aside.
2 To make the sweet potato crisps, heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer or a deep-sided saucepan to 180°C (350°F) or until a small piece of white bread turns golden brown in about 30 seconds.
3 Peel the sweet potato and, using a very sharp knife or a vegetable peeler, cut the sweet potato into thin strips. Deep-fry the potato strips for 2–3 minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper (paper towels). If using a saucepan to deep-fry the crisps, then carefully drop the sweet potato strips into the hot oil in batches. Season with a little salt and pepper and set aside until required.
4 Meanwhile, heat a large frying pan. Season the scallops with a little salt and cracked black pepper, drizzle with a little oil and sear quickly in the hot pan. Just as they are almost cooked, add the butter, which will give the scallops a nice glaze.
5 Remove the scallops from the pan and leave in a warm place or in a low oven for a few moments.
6 Meanwhile, keep the pan hot and quickly stir-fry the leek and carrot strips until they are just softened. Stir in the brandy and remove the pan from the heat. Set the mixture alight with a match, taking care to keep the flames away from your face, hands and other objects in the vicinity, and ensuring your extractor fan is turned off. Let the flames flare up then die down, and return the pan to the heat. Next add the cream and gently bring to the boil. Season to taste and then mix in the chopped parsley.
7 Spoon a little of the brandy and vegetable reduction onto a plate and top with three glazed scallops. Garnish with a sprig of flat-leaf parsley and the sweet potato crisps.
