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Vern was busy mixing up a mess of his Real Mean Barbecue Sauce.

Vern Dewey’s Real Mean Barbecue Sauce

Mix 1 cup oil, 2 yellow onions (minced), 2 bell peppers (minced) and 2 red chillis (minced) with 2 cans of tomato pulp, 3 big spoons of sugar, 3 spoons of vinegar, a good pinch of salt and a dash of liquid hickory-smoke. The longer you leave the ribs in this, the better they’ll be.

!WARNING!

You better scrub your fingers real good afterwards. You get chilli juice on your privates you’ll be sorry.

He said, ‘I suppose you gotta drive out there, running a limousine service for the breeds?’ He was mad at me for inviting Kath and John Pharaoh for the Fourth of July. ‘Don’t you know your history, Peg?’ he said. ‘It’s a day of mourning for them. Day they lost the greatest nation on earth.’

I’d just invited them for ribs and hamburger, was all.

I said, ‘How about a little Christian kindness and hospitality? You seen the meat rations they been getting out there?’

I had. I’d seen things on sale, I swear, bodily parts never intended to see the light of day, never mind the inside of a skillet. Brains. And tripe.

‘That’s not so bad,’ Kath used to say, ‘if you can get an onion or two to put with it, cook it nice and slow – that’s quite tasty.’ How the years can change a person.

We were using the Gillises’ front yard, so Ed was in charge of ops. Audrey brought potato salad, Betty made brownies and Johnny Applesauce cake, Gayle and Lo were in charge of some evil brew they swore was Bloody Mary, and I made fried chicken. Vern and Okey were meant to be assisting Ed; Lance too, when he turned up. Recipe for war if ever I heard one, four jocks gathered around one barbecue pit.

Wasn’t long, though, till Okey and Vern lost interest in the secret of the perfect hamburger. Vern fetched a ball and they went across the road to Deek Kurlich’s quarters, shoot a few hoops with him and his boy. Crystal followed, of course, getting under their feet, determined to be one of the gang.

Herb was away on assignment. Just as well. First thing I seen when I pulled up outside Kath’s house was John Pharaoh wearing one of Herb’s old shirts. Lime green Ban-Lon, with a blue stripe. I’d have recognised it anywhere. He was carrying a raggedy old pillowcase, with something inside it. Gave me that sly smile and I blushed scarlet thinking of what he was at, the last time I seen him.

‘I got a surprise for you,’ he said. ‘For your party.’

I really didn’t want any more surprises from him. And if I had known what it was, I’d never have allowed him in my car with it.

When Kath walked out the door, I hardly knew her. She’d had her hair curled up all night, touch of tangerine lipstick given her by Audrey, and a polka-dot ballerina skirt, Lois’s one and only try at dressmaking, far as I knew. I’d wondered what had become of it. God knows she made us all suffer while she was working on it. Said the dots made her eyes hurt. Gave us earache, more to the point. Still, it had finally gone to a good home. Kath looked so pretty in it.

By the time we got back to the base, Ed was cooking up a storm. It smelled so good. Deana run across and told Vern our company had arrived and food was near enough ready.

I said, ‘Vern, this here’s John. Why don’t you get him a cold beer?’

‘Right,’ he said. Then, real quiet, to me, ‘Why? He lost the use a his legs?’

Okey heard it. He said, ‘I’ll get it, Vern. You ready for another?’

So Okey passed John a beer and then he hung around the pit watching the Maple Short Ribs turn mahogany-brown. He didn’t seem bothered Vern had turned his back on him. He just stood there, sucking on his beer and holding his pillowcase.

Kath said, ‘You go steady with that ale, John Pharaoh.’

I seen Ed sneering.

‘Easy to see who’s wearing the pants there,’ he said. Priceless remark from a man that was wearing PT shorts and a plastic apron, but Vern sniggered anyway.

I was so mad at him. He knew better than behaving like that, even if Ed didn’t, but that’s jocks for you. Put more than two of them together and you have a bunch of show-off kids.

John had been studying the barbecue. He said, ‘You ever cook a barley eel on a griddle like that?’

‘No, my friend,’ Ed said, ‘I don’t believe I did.’

It was Okey looked inside the pillowcase. ‘Christamighty, Vern,’ he said, ‘you should see the size a this sucker.’

Then John brought it outta the bag. It must have been four feet long, still had its head on, but no skin. Betty screamed. I think I did too. I heard Vern whistle. Get him on to fishing and all that talk about breeds and knuckle-grazers was soon forgot.

‘Jeez!’ he said. ‘You catch that hereabouts?’

John said, ‘Yes. That’s a green barley. They just started running.’ He looked so proud. ‘He’s a big un, this one,’ he said. ‘When I seen him in the grig this morning, I thought to save him, bring him along. I know how you Colonials like your grub. Kath’ll tell you how to cook him.’

Kath Pharaoh’s Way with Eels

The young ones are the best, before they’ve turned yellow. Put them in a pillowcase with a handful of salt and swish that around in a tub of water till the sliminess is gone. Fry them in bacon fat. They’re soon done. If you can’t get elvers, then get an old boy, eight or nine years old. After you’ve skinned him, cut him into two-inch pieces and bake him on a grid. That needs a good hot flame. Nice with piccalilli.

Vern and Okey were inspecting the beast.

‘Stun it with a mallet?’

‘Had to,’ he said. ‘Generally I pierce them through the spine with a skewer. Couldn’t hold this old boy, though. I had to give him a clout with my hammer.’

‘Skin come off easy?’

‘Not too bad. Do you put a slip-loop round him, hang him from a good strong hook, then cut round him, just aback of his head – Stanley knife does it nice and clean – then grab holt of the skin here, use a pair of pliers and just give that a good old pull, that comes off, like peeling off a glove. He might still jerk around a bit, but you just pay no heed. Do you cut his head off, he’ll soon calm down.’

I heard something behind me. Turned just in time to see Lois, running to the bathroom. Ed fetched a good knife and they carved that evil-looking creature into steaks and made space for them on the hot grid.

Lance made a big entrance. He’d been at the Officers’ Club helping to set up the fireworks. He strode in, said a few kind words to everybody, shook John and Kath by the hand like he was some visiting dignitary, asked them had they come far and all that. Then he called us to order and we all looked to the flag.

Little Gayle stood on a kitchen chair in her gingham pedal-pushers and sang us the Star Spangl’d Banner, fine voice she had. I had to wipe a tear, I felt so far from home. Wherever that might be. I didn’t miss my mom nor my sister, and me and Vern had moved around so much I didn’t really belong anyplace any more. Maybe it was the fumes from the Kurlichs’ charcoal briquettes made my eyes water. Maybe it was the eel.

Vern said, ‘There goes 366 Squadron, generating more smoke than heat, as usual.’ Just a little light enmity between aircrews. We were playing them at softball after eats and we had plans to whup their hides.

Kath was acting shy, with the guys around, I guess, till she saw Okey start giving the girls pony-rides on his back. Then she joined in, down on her hands and knees with little Sandie clinging round her neck, shouting giddyup.

She didn’t eat much, pecking at her food. John was eating enough for the two of them, though. He kept going back for more – chicken, cake, hamburger, ice cream, eel. He just piled it high, pacing up and down, with that funny little smile of his. He never went near Lois, though, never even looked her way. I know because I was keeping my eye on her. And all she had was crackers and booze, crackers and more booze.

I said, ‘Lois, what’s your problem?’ after she told me she didn’t feel up to playing softball. ‘That leaves us a man short.’

‘Come inside a minute,’ she said.

We went into Betty’s kitchen.

‘You keep a secret?’ she said. ‘I’m expecting. Only don’t you say a word t’anybody else.’

She didn’t look good. Kinda blotchy. I hugged her.

I said, ‘In that case, I forgive you. First three months with Crystal, I couldn’t even keep water down. Herb pleased?’

‘That’s what I mean, Peg,’ she said. ‘Me and Herb haven’t had time to sit down and talk about it. You know? So keep it to yourself.’

Dorothy Kurlich was waving us it was time to go down to the diamond.

‘Take my advice, Lo,’ I said, ‘you’ve got a migraine. Go home, lie down, get your face outta here, before the interrogation starts. Leave Sandie. She’ll be fine.’

The Future Homemakers of America

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