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Introduction

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Picture me, a scruffy tourist in bush shirt and slacks, trudging along Cairo’s wide and dusty boulevards and through its grimy alleys. It is hot and I am weary, my old shoes are buffed to a glass-like sheen because I find it difficult to turn away the shoe-shine ‘boys’ of all ages who guard every street corner. In my hand there is a map. It is not a modern coloured map with adverts for discos and five star hotels; it is a hand-drawn one showing the city as it was in 1941. It is the work of Victor Pettitt and his wife Margaret, whose dedication and unique experience are helping me bridge the years. I look at Victor’s notes and thrust the map under the noses of appropriately aged passers-by and indicate what I am looking for but it is not easy to find someone who remembers a past that they would rather forget. Sometimes I am lucky, and this book was the result of the kindness and help of many people; friends and strangers. I hope you will enjoy it.

This story of World War Two is set in a short specific period when the city was threatened by the tanks and guns of General Rommel’s Afrika Korps. It was not only the future of Cairo that hung in the balance; a German occupation of the city would have cut Britain off from its vast supporting Imperial complex that stretched from India to Australia. And the greater part of the story I tell is closely based upon historical fact.

Cairo is the world’s oldest city. It has always been the cultural centre of the Arab world and so remains. It sits astride the Eastern Mediterranean and the Suez Canal. It is cosmopolitan in a way that few other cities – and certainly no other Arab city – comes near to being. The unique way in which the River Nile mixed the minerals of the Blue Nile and the rotting vegetation carried by the White Nile made Egypt’s flooded lands exceptionally fertile and fed its population for more than four thousand years.

I find it awesome that in the time of Jesus Christ, visitors came to see the pyramids which had been built two thousand years earlier. Cairo has always known visitors. Cairo controls the only practical route between Europe and the Orient and is the most attractive stopover between Europe and Africa. Travellers are likely to settle permanently in such stopover places, as any New Yorker will confirm. And so Cairo, amid its Muslim millions, is home to a most amazing mixture of races and religions from Copts and Catholics and Jews to Hindus and Buddhists. This diverse array was especially apparent during World War Two.

It was World War Two that made Cairo into a strategic prize, capture of which would have changed history. It is early 1942, when City of Gold begins. Hitler’s armies are occupying the greater part of the continent of Europe from northern Norway to France’s border with Spain. In June 1941 the German army had invaded communist Russia and advanced all the way to the outskirts of Leningrad and Moscow. As the year ended the USA suffered a crippling surprise attack on its Navy in the Pacific; and Germany – fulfilling its agreement with Japan – had declared war upon America.

France had capitulated to the Germans, and French soldiers and sailors in North Africa had also decided to stop fighting. The Italian forces in Libya – an Italian colony – had been waging an unsuccessful battle with the British forces in neighbouring Egypt. To shore up their Italian allies the Germans had sent elements of its armed forces under an obscure but singularly ambitious General named Erwin Rommel, who owed his position to being a favourite of Hitler. As the story opens Rommel’s armoured units were coming uncomfortably close to Cairo.

It is Cairo in that period of early 1942 that I wanted to depict as accurately and dispassionately as I could manage. When I first visited the city, World War Two had been over for ten years. There was plenty of evidence of the earlier times but before starting to plan this book I needed much more. I went back to look afresh. I talked with Egyptian friends and enjoyed the immense benefit of a wife who had lived in Cairo with her parents, who had studied there and speaks and writes Arabic. I scoured diaries and letters, memoirs and endless photo albums. I had become friends with Walther Nehring (who as a Gen-Lt. had commanded the Afrika Korps). Other German desert veterans also provided their viewpoints. But more riches were to be found on my doorstep, for England was packed with people who had spent some wartime years in Egypt. And could they remember!

Looking back, I see that City of Gold had some things in common with my other two books about men and women fighting World War Two. Bomber and Goodbye Mickey Mouse, like City of Gold, were dominated by the environment in which the stories were set. All three books demanded a sympathetic understanding, and persuasive depiction, of foreigners. All three books were subjected to a long period of consideration as I researched time and place. Cairo in 1942, threatened from the desert by German tanks, and in its streets by rioting Egyptians, was undermined by corruption and theft on a massive scale (only to be equalled in scale and audacity during the Vietnam war.) To cover such a complex period, with any chance of reflecting the way it really was, required a large cast of characters: many different people with many different motives tugging in different directions. Only by this means could the bewildering atmosphere of Cairo 1942 be demonstrated. While the other two books also show dissension and dismay they are about unified casts of characters. There is little or no unification of the people in my wartime Cairo. The streets were crowded with Arabs, Italians, Greeks, French and British. There were many different uniforms worn by soldiers, sailors and airmen, South African servicemen and Australians, New Zealanders and Canadians, Indian soldiers and Poles. There were men of the Egyptian army too, although their country remained technically neutral and their declared enemy was the British ‘occupiers’ rather than the Germans at the gates of the city. To add to this social confusion there were countless sub-divisions. Most conspicuous among the civilians were the rich: Egyptian, Greek, French and Italian families, many of whom had lived there for several generations and were determined to keep their elegant lifestyle and privileges. The British enjoyed special social divisions: the most exclusive were civilians permanently employed in the administration, soldiers of Britain’s pre-war regular army were distinguished from men who joined the army simply to fight the war. Combat soldiers from the desert looked with scorn upon the ‘chairborne’ warriors who manned the desks, and of course there always remained the steep class divide between British officers and ‘other ranks’. At the bottom of the heap there was Egypt’s vast population of ragged, half-starved peasantry, of which a sizable proportion was crippled or diseased.

Several of my characters are based upon real people but since no one in the story comes out of it with glory I have not used any real names apart from General Rommel and ‘Ambassador’ Lampson, for whom no one with whom I spoke had a good word. More than one person with firsthand experience thought that many aspects of present-day troubles in the ‘Muddle East’ were largely a legacy of the well-publicised bullying of King Farouk. Some of the episodes here, such as Lampson’s visit to the Palace, are based upon eye-witness descriptions. Most of the places are depicted as accurately as I am able.

Len Deighton, 2011

City of Gold

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