Читать книгу Handicraft Simplified Procedure and Projects in Leather, Celluloid, Metal, Wood, Batik, Rope, Cordage, Yarn, Horsehair, Pottery, Weaving, Stone, Primitive Indian Craft - Lester Griswold - Страница 10

The descriptions following should enable the craft worker to apply to many selected project the detailed procedure of decoration and assembly given in Sections G and H, Chapter II. Space limitations make it impractical to give dimensions or exact pattern outlines.

1.The group of Coin Purses shown in the illustration may be made of either Steer or Calfskin. Both may be used unlined but the inside finish of the Steer is neater if lined. A simple single coin purse as No. 1 involves less assembly detail than other purse projects and is desirable as a first attempt for beginners.

a.Single Coin Purse. (Calfskin.) Dampen, crease edges and transfer design as detailed on page 44.

b.Apply tooled decoration and permit the leather to dry.

c.Skive the edges which are to be united.

d.Cement the front and back together along the edges only and deepen the edge crease.

e.Start at one corner and punch the holes, using the gauge punch. Adjust spacing if necessary to bring the holes in the corners. The method is shown in A and B, page 64.

f.Lace, starting about three holes below one top edge of the front.

The same procedure is followed when steer hide is used except that the front edge is turned under at the top, see page 63. If a lining is used see a cementing of linings and method of holding to avoid folds in the lining, page 63.

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2.Double Coin Purses and Card Case Coin Purses are constructed in about the same way except for the insertion of the additional pocket or purse flap. These must be skived thin at the edges so that the combined thickness will not be out of proportion with the single flap. Cement carefully in position before punching, and trim if necessary to make all margins straight. Nos. 2 and 3, double coin purse and card case coin purse are made of Steer hide and the edges of fronts and pockets are turned under as shown. No. 4 is gusset type double coin purse with a folded pocket of the type described on page 76.

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3.Folding Coin Purse. (Tooling Vealskin or heavy Calfskin, Goat.)

a.Firm leather is required. The illustration shows vealskin carved, and goatskin stamped. Method of tracing design and carving is detailed on pages 53 and 54. Stamping is shown on page 58, also under Morocco Stamping, pages 30 and 31.

b.Assembly detail is shown in the sketches, pages 75 and 76.

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B

C

4.Key Purses.

Unlined Key Purses may be made of heavy Calfskin or Steer and these are not necessarily laced. The key plate is attached directly to the outside piece as detailed in Sketch A, page 79.

a.Dampen, crease and apply design. A panel, either a monogram or conventional design is usually applied to the center as illustrated, though a small design may be tooled on the flap if desired. If the purse is not to be laced edge creasing and staining (if the leather is dark) will complete the project. The key plate and snap fastener may be attached either before or after the design is tooled. It should be done last if it interferes with the design.

b.The key purse, Cuts A and B, is a swivel plate type of steer, lined with matching goatskin. The key plate is attached to the lining and this cemented and laced to the outside piece which has been tooled. See tooling, cementing and lacing procedure, pages 44 to 47 and pages 63 to 68.

Cut C shows a post type keytainer.

5.Memo Pad Purse an Bill Fold with coin pocket. (Steer or Calfskin.)

a.Dampen and apply panel decoration, as illustrated, monogram or emblem to the ends, fold in position and dry.

b.Skive edges and stitch the coin purse section to the lining.

c.Cement the pocket, which has been creased or turned down at the top, to the lining and then the lining to the outside, smoothing from the center fold to the ends to prevent buckling. Trim uneven margins.

d.Punch and lace, starting near the upper edge of the pocket.

5A. The Coin Pocket Bill Fold is assembled in the same way except that the Bill Fold has an additional bill pocket which must be stitched along the upper edge after pockets are in place. If cut of dyed leather the unlaced edge should be stained. Steerhide is especially satisfactory for this project as thinner sections may be used for the lining and pockets. A neat finish for the top of the pocket is obtained by cutting the lining sufficiently wide to permit the unlaced edge to be skived and turned down before stitching.

e.Punch upper outside edge and lace first, cement lining in position with outside folded, and lace together around remaining three sides. Cut A shows lining.

6.Bill Fold for Small Bills, Double Pockets. (Steer, Calfskin.)

a.Cut B shows the appearance of the lining section with the double pockets in place and stitched along one edge.

b.Assembly follows that detailed for No. 5A.

7.Photo Holder and Identification Card Case.

a.The parts consist of an outside piece, window for photo or card, celluloid, lining and in the Identification Case an additional card pocket.

b.Tool the outside front and back panels as previously directed, permit to dry folded in position.

c.Stitch the celluloid (along the inside edge only) to the window section, which has been creased.

d.Cement the lining, window and pocket in position and crease guide line for punching.

e.Punch and lace using wide or narrow lacing. The lacing should start at a point that will permit the ends of the thongs to be concealed under an inside edge.

8.Photo Frame, Easel Type. (Steer or Calfskin.)

a.The decoration is applied to the frame opening which is suitable for many forms of border and corner designs.

b.A metal easel may be attached or a leather easel constructed as indicated in the sketch which also shows method of attachment to the back, and slit for inserting photo. Soft leather is stiffened by cementing to strap leather, Sketch B.

c.Decorate frame and permit it to dry.

d.Cement together at the edges, the frame, celluloid the same size, and the back to which the easel has been attached.

e.Crease, punch and lace, using wide or narrow lacings.

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9.Envelope Bags.

Three styles of envelope purses are illustrated. No. 1 is without gusset, and has two straight pockets and a stitched coin pocket. This is constructed the same as the flat square cornered coin purse except that the pocket must be stitched in place before the parts are cemented for assembly. Concealed snap fasteners are attached to the pockets as shown in the illustration. The use of the handle is optional. Lining required.

No. 2–2A Envelope Bags are constructed as follows:

a.Dampen and decorate the flap of the outside piece, also back panel if desired, and permit to dry in a folded position with tissue paper inserted to preserve the shape.

b.Construct gussets as directed under assembly procedure, page 66.

c.Skive and turn inside edge of purse section over lining.

Cement the lining to the outside, smoothing from the folds outward as directed on page 65. If pockets are desired these should be stitched in place with the upper edge skived and turned under (cemented down). These should not extend to the edge of the lining unless skived very thin.

d.Insert the gussets and cement lightly along the edges as directed.

e.Punch the holes, using spacing gauge. Start about 1/8″ from the top of one gusset and punch around the gusset, flap and second gusset. Care must be taken to hold the punch horizontally when punching the bottom curve of the gussets so that the holes will not slope outward. Also be sure to estimate distance of holes near the tops of the gussets and space so that no hole cuts through the top fold of either gusset.

f.Start lacing about three holes from the top of gussets and lace both gussets in place. End the lacing at the front edge as shown under lacing, page 68. Lace the flap last, using a single long thong (six times edge length). Splice into gusset lacing as directed on page 67.

A

B

9.Envelope Bag—Two Piece.

This purse illustrated in Cut A is constructed with square corners and a straight bottom gusset which is inserted in the same manner as the brief case gusset described on page 73. The gusset is cut in one piece with a flare at the top of the sides, the outside piece 3/8″ longer to allow for turning back over the edge of the lining as detailed under assembly procedure, page 66. The front is cut any desired rectangular shape and the flap may be rounded as illustrated or cut with square corners to come to the bottom of the front. The ornamentation is effected by the tooled fan-shaped piece which extends to the bottom edge of the back and forms a handle. This is edge laced and attached to the flap, which may be of contrasting non-tooling leather, with the three hole fastening through the corners.

Assembly of Two Piece Envelope Bag.

a.Apply decoration to the flap piece, permit this to dry and lace the edges using whip or lay over stitch.

b.Stitch the pocket in the front lining and cement it to front. Attach the ornamental piece to the back and flap, using the three hole fastening, see page 81 for detail. Cement the lining to this part, allowing for the fold in the flap. Another pocket may be stitched to back if desired.

c.Cement the gusset to the back edge, folding the corners as directed, Punch the holes and lace. Refer to corner detail under lacing, page 71. Continue lacing around the flap.

d.Lace the front to the gusset in the same manner.

e.A mirror may be cemented to the flap.

No. 1

10.Vanity Purses.

A vertical type vanity purse is illustrated in No. 1.

a.Decorate both sides of the purse with the same or different designs.

b.Purse No. 1 is easily assembled since the pockets are laced in flat. The handle is attached with a metal fastening before the lining is cemented in place. Note that the edges of the pockets and flap have been turned under. This step is not necessary if calfskin is used. This purse is held together with a tab which is attached with snap fasteners at both ends. One is tightly riveted so that it cannot be detached.

The mirror may be cemented or inserted in the pocket.

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No. 2 shows a creased design which has been colored. This purse is cut from natural steerhide, using a thin section of the skin for the lining.

This is made from natural calfskin with natural steer lining. Steer would be satisfactory for both outside and lining or suede lining may be used with pockets of outside material.

c.Purse No. 2 has a mirror cemented in position underneath an opening cut in the lining of the flap. The mirror is first cemented to a piece of thin lining and this is cemented evenly across the flap so that the mirror is held in place. A very little glue is used at the edger to attach them to the mirror. The gusset detail for this type of purse is described on page 76. Wide lacing is used for assembly which is simplified by the rounded corners. Invisible fasteners are attached to the lining.

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11.Strap Hand Bags.

Two styles of the three cornered gusset type bags are shown in the illustration. No. 1 is two piece with separate gussets, made of steer hide with a tooled decoration. No. 2 is a small hand purse cut in one piece with a vertical handle attached with the three hole fastening, see page 37. Suede lining was used in both bags.

The handle of No. 1 is inserted in slits cut in the outside gussets about two inches from the top, and cemented firmly in position between the outside and the lining. The tops of the gussets are finished as shown on page 66 and the lacing detail is sketched on page 68.

12.Metal Top Bags.

The essential detail in the successful construction of metal top bags is the proper cut of the pattern and the careful finish of the gusset tops. A material must be selected which will permit the edges to be skived very thin and it also must be soft enough to fold into position when the bag is closed. Steerhide is recommended.

a.Dampen the entire outside piece and tool one or both sides.

b.Prepare the gussets and cement in position as instructed on page 66.

c.Punch around the gussets, using spacing gauge. Special attention must be given to the punching around the curve of the gussets to avoid any slope toward the outside which will result if the punch is not held horizontally.

d.Lace the gussets in position with lay over stitch. The last hole at the top should be whip laced, leaving 2″ of thong for ending.

13.Book Ends. (Steerhide as illustrated or Calfskin.)

The outside pieces are cut 3/8″ larger all around with additional length at the curve of 1/2″ to allow for the bending of the metals. The inside lining is cut larger on all edges except at the bottom where it may be about 3/8″ shorter. Sheet wadding is required for padding the outside.

a.Apply decoration to the design area of the front section. A creased line is shown which gives a border effect, but this is not necessary. Relief tooling is attractive and very suitable for book ends since the metal forms prevent any flattening of the design. Slightly Dad with sheet cotton wadding to fill out the raised design.

b.Cement the lining to the bent metal form, smoothing out all wrinkles. A thin piece of the steer is satisfactory for this purpose. Stretch the sheet wadding over the outside and cement along the edges and at the fold. Carefully place the outside in position and cement to the wadding and to the edges of the inside lining which extends beyond the metal edge.

c.Punch carefully, avoiding contact with the edge of the metal. A margin of 1/8″ should be creased and followed as a guide in punching.

d.Lace, using wide whip lacing.

14.Desk Sets, Blotter Pad Corners. (Steerhide, Calfskin or Morocco.)

This desk set consists of a blotter pad to which are attached the four corners or end strips, small blotter and letter holder. The holder requires a metal form and is constructed in the same manner as the book end previously descibed. The small blotter is edge laced to the lining and a piece of blotting paper attached with a metal clip or with thongs. The corners are assembled as described on page 72.

15.Note Books.

A slip over style note book cover is illustrated here. Pockets are laced to the cover which is slipped over the original note book cover to which the clips are attached. It must be cut 3/8″ larger than the cover which is to be inserted, with an additional width of 1 inch for the fold. This cover is suitable for a regulation book cover as well.

Lined note books with metals attached with rivets or base plate are described on page 36. Attachment detail is sketched on page 80.

16.Bridge Set.

A Bridge Set and a Playing Card Case are shown in the illustration, which also shows the inside of the bridge set with the cards and score pad in place. The set is made of Steerhide and the single case of Calfskin. The Bridge Set is described on page 28.

In the Bridge Set an outside piece, suede lining, pocket piece for cards and for base of pad are required. The piece for the card pockets is shaped as illustrated and sufficient width is allowed to permit the insertion of the cards. This piece is edge creased, skived on the ends and stitched in place exactly in the center. The ends are cemented to the lining and then laced in with the outside. The score pad pocket is cut slightly longer than half the shaped card pocket piece. This is stitched on the inside edge to which is attached a loop for the pencil. Wide or narrow lacing may be used.

17.The Writing Portfolio illustrated is made of tooling steer in a two-tone mottled brown and laced with wide matching brown thongs. It is an advanced project requiring considerable skill but may be constructed without difficulty if the directions are followed exactly.

a.Apply a tooled decoration to the outside piece. A panel design which may be simplified and used for the back as well is effective. A name or monogram may be worked into the bottom panel as illustrated. Crease the edge for the punching guide and allow to dry in the folded position. Attach the base of a Portfolio Lock, see page 37, or Bag Plate post and cage in position, see page 79.

b.Overlapping pockets, two or three as shown, are cut long enough to turn under for the finish at the top edges. These are skived very thin along all edges and cemented to the gussets which are prepared as in sketch H. If any small pockets are desired sections of the outside pocket may be stitched as on page 66.

c.Punch and lace the over lapping pockets to the gusset and end the thongs by inserting the last inch back through three loops of lacing.

d.The base for the blotter pad, also the two inner corners are cut 3/8″ longer on the upper edge to permit stitching in place as indicated in Sketch D. All edges of the corners are skived thin and the diagonal is turned under and creased. Stitch the inner edge of the pockets and the pencil loop as shown in Sketch D, turn them back, Sketch K, and cement the other edge to the lining. Cement the seam to the lining and cover the surface with a thin piece of skiver. Turn under, cement and crease the outer corners along the diagonal and then cement them to the lining edge.

e.Insert a piece of buckram between the suede lining of the portfolio and the outside, cement the blotter pad section to the suede along the edges, and then cement the whole suede lining smoothly to the outside, folding at the center as in sketch. C.

f.Punch and lace the blotter pad section to the outside, then cement the gussets to the lining and the outside. Punch around the remaining edge and lace along the gusset edges then across the bottom as far as the center where the fastener strap is to be inserted. This is cut double of thin sections, cemented and laced around the sides and end. The Bag Plate is attached and the strap inserted between the outside and lining. There should be about one inch open space between the covers when the snap is fastened. Position the strap exactly and mark the two rows of holes as indicated in Sketch E. Remove the strap and punch the holes as marked. Replace the strap in position and cement the edges together, making sure that the holes coincide. Continue lacing, using the ends of the strap and edge thong to form a double cross lacing. Insert the ends between the lining and the inner pocket, pull through smoothly and cement to the back of the pocket. Insert blotter, or a smooth writing surface of celluloid or press board may be substituted if desired.

This portfolio may also be constructed with a straight gusset as shown in brief case, page 37.

18.Morocco Style Handbags and Purses.

The illustration shows a morocco style pouch hand bag. This type of stamped decoration combined with straight and circular lines is applied to natural Steerhide which is very attractive and much more durable than the morocco bags of sheepskin. The stamping detail for the hand bag is shown in the cut, page 31, and the complete assembly step by step in Fig. 1.

Fig. 1