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PART 1 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS (LEFKA ORI)

The path to Gingilos passes through a rock arch (Walk 3)

There are three quite distinct massifs in this mountain range: west, central and east. The Gorge of Samaria and the Omalos Plain divide west from central, and the Askifou Plain divides central from east. The central massif provides the greatest variety of walking and trekking routes, although routes in all three regions do link up. The Gorge of Samaria National Park is often the main focal point of a walking holiday in or around the central massif.

For professional mountain-guiding services contact (multi-lingual) Jean Bienvenu, who lives near Chania (see Appendix D).

Route suggestions

On a one-week trip the walk up, or down, the Samaria Gorge can be combined with various other walking routes. Your plan should ideally allow for a contingency day in case of bad weather, when the gorge might be closed. Since there are tourist facilities ‘everywhere’ along the Sfakiot coast, you could spend several days on a continuous route walking up and down the south coast escarpment, or the gorges, all of which are different. For example:

 Starting at Imbros (access: Hora Sfakion bus from Chania), walk down the Imbros Gorge to Hora Sfakion and up to Anopolis (bus or walk) for overnight (Walks 24, 45).

 Next day: Down the Aradena Gorge for overnight on the coast, followed by the coastal walk to Ay. Roumeli (Walks 39, 39A, 48).

 Next day: Up the Samaria Gorge (and be amazed at its size after the others) to Omalos for overnight, followed by down the Ay. Irini Gorge to Souyia, for early bus out in the morning, or on to Paleochora (Walks 49, 8, 9, 9A).

This coastline, with its tourist facilities and network of old trails, offers all sorts of choices to walkers who are prepared to travel light. As a result the area has a strong following of repeat visitors who know they will get a good week’s walking here.

A very different trip, for those who want to practise their Greek and who like places far from the tourist trail, a backpack, mid-level route when the high mountains are still snow-covered could be:

 From Souyia (access: bus from Chania) up the Ay. Irini Gorge to the Omalos (Walks 9, 8 in reverse), and then to Zourva (Walk 10).

 Then to Drakona (road tramp) via the Theriso road (see Trek 1) and continuing to Kambi, and Melidoni (Walk 14), to Fres and Vafes (Walks 17 or 19).

 Then to Askifou (Walk 21) or Krappis and Lake Kourna (Walk 34).

Meals are available at Souyia, Omalos, Zourva, Melidoni, Vafes, Krappis and Askifou; supplies at Souyia and Askifou, and simple supplies at Omalos, Melidoni and Vafes. There is accommodation at Souyia, Omalos and Askifou, but otherwise you need to be equipped to camp.