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ОглавлениеTHE OMALOS PLAIN
Walkers pause above the wooded spur that forms an optional return route to the Omalos Plain (Walk 3)
The Omalos Plain (also called ‘plateau’) is the largest of several high plains in the White Mountains. On the south side, 1.5km beyond the periphery of the plain, is Xyloscala, the busy trailhead for the walk down through the Gorge of Samaria National Park. From Xyloscala other footpaths lead eastwards to the high mountains via Kallergi Refuge, or southwestwards to the summit of Gingilos, its massive grey cliff forming part of the northwest wall of the gorge.
At Omalos hamlet (often simply called ‘Omalos hotels’ by the bus crew) and Xyloscala, various establishments, run by people from Lakki village, specialise in providing quick, sustaining breakfasts for the thousands who walk the gorge each day. Trekkers leaving for the high mountains should note that the only shop, at Xyloscala, does not stock provisions other than snacks. The New Omalos Hotel (at Omalos) can normally supply meat, eggs, cheese, tomatoes, fruit and bread. Otherwise, bring lightweight food supplies up with you.
Omalos 1080m (3543ft) attracts and holds typical mountain weather: rain, mist, winds, frost and, in winter, metres of snow. For Cretans who have to work all summer, the hotels, with their home cooking and log fires, make this a popular winter weekend destination, especially when snow transforms a formerly parched summer landscape. At other times of year the cool fresh air is a welcome relief from the heat of coastal resorts and a few days’ stay is popular with walking groups. In May people comb the old meadows collecting stamnagathi, the highly regarded edible plant of the Cretan mountains. Growing flat to the ground, its spines have to be removed before it is boiled for about 20mins.
An asphalted ring road serves the plateau and main roads enter it from the north and west. Earthen tracks criss-cross the central area. Two or three long sinkholes drain off snowmelt and rainwater that emerges far below as springs, inland from Chania. Drivers use the tracks tentatively, aware that a new sinkhole might develop at any moment. Work on a large artificial reservoir on the west side of the plain is currently suspended.
WALK 1
Around the Omalos Plain
| Start/Finish | Omalos hamlet 1080m (3543ft) |
| Distance | 5–6km (3–3¾ miles), depending on route |
| Grade | A |
| Time | Allow 20mins per km; straight across the plateau is about 2.5km, and return by either rim road is about 3km |
| Access | KTEL Omalos bus or taxi from Chania |
On this route walkers can avoid the roads fairly well by using perimeter sheep paths and service tracks. On the plain, patience will be needed with fencing and gates (hence the generous time allowance). The whole area is heavily grazed, but wild flowers survive here and there on the borders of the old meadows or around the sinkholes, one or two of which retain water in the spring. The two-storey white taverna, at a place called Selinotikos Gyros, to the left of the western pass, is a popular destination. Along with refreshments, grills and salad, the taverna offers rooms for rent.
A few rare ambelitsia trees, endemic to the Omalos region, grow in the dry watercourse descending from the Strifomadi–Psilafi massif. Ambelitsia wood is used to make the traditional shepherd’s crook of Sfakia. Ruined (and new) ‘summer’ houses ring the edge of the plain, as this was (and still is) a transhumance destination for shepherds of Ay. Irini and Lakki. Much needed by the busy hotels, cheese is still made here in the spring – excellent mountain-produced graviera that does not reach Chania market.
Leave Omalos by walking west, preferably on the fenced unmade track just north of the hamlet. This joins another road at a crossroads behind the hotels. A massive deluge (2006) has caused a new sinkhole to develop on the left, before this point. To walk straight across the plain, note a dirt track near the end of this disturbed ground – it goes slightly uphill and is fenced on both sides. Walk straight along this. (The white taverna is now in view across the plain and this is roughly the direction in which to head.) A wire gate at the end gives access to an enclosure formed around a long sinkhole. Make your way around this to rejoin your line of travel. The reservoir site will be on your left. There will be more wire gates to negotiate and various sinkhole features.
Looking south to Mt Gingilos across the Omalos Plain (May)
Return via the northern rim road or make your way around the southern edge, where there are sheep paths near the road. From the south side, branch off on a dirt track that goes straight across the plateau. It is dead straight and can easily be identified as you walk north along the main road from Xyloscala. Keep on this track until you are level with Omalos hamlet where, free of fenced enclosures, you turn right to rejoin the main road.
WALK 2
The Gorge of Samaria National Park
| Start | Xyloscala 1240m (4068ft) |
| Finish | Ay. Roumeli |
| Distance | 16km (10 miles). Length of gorge: 13km (8 miles) |
| Grade | B |
| Time | Xyloscala to Ay. Nikolaos chapel 1hr 30mins; to Samaria old village 1hr 10mins; to Iron Gates 1hr 10mins; to park boundary 40mins; to Ay. Roumeli waterfront 30mins; total 5hrs |
| Height loss | 1240m (4068ft) |
| Access | KTEL Omalos bus or taxi from Chania |
| Access to finish | Coastal ferryboat service (see below) |
| Notes | Entrance fee |
This hugely popular walk down the Samaria Gorge has brought much prosperity to western Crete. Perhaps as a result several smaller gorges in Crete have been developed as attractive walking routes. Although the National Park of the Gorge of Samaria has evolved in this way, part of it was designated a nature reserve as long ago as 1929, when biologists determined that the Cretan wild goat, or agrimi – (the ‘kri-kri’) – would become extinct if they did not take steps to save it. This ongoing project has its ups and downs but it is a fundamental reason why the gorge today is a well-organised national park run according to World Conservation Union standards.
A river fed by mountain springs and snowmelt runs down the gorge, disappearing and reappearing at intervals, typical of limestone terrain. Ay. Roumeli depends on this water supply. A big black pipe, starting in the riverbed at the source of the largest spring, Kefalovrisi (just north of the Iron Gates) conveys this water down to the village storage tank. Temporary timber walkways are positioned at the many river crossings on the walk. For those who prefer to wade (bring sandals) the river is not fast-flowing by the time the gorge opens to the public.
Principal man-made features are the old village of Samaria halfway down – from which the population was resettled in the 1960s – and the old village of Ay. Roumeli, just outside the park boundary at the bottom. New Ay. Roumeli is 1km further on, right on the seashore. Other constructions in or near the gorge, apart from mule tracks, are chapels, ruined Turkish forts and water conduits to ruined sawmills or used for irrigation.
As this part of the south coast is free of roads, tour groups finish by being transferred from Ay. Roumeli to Hora Sfakion, or Souyia, by boat, where they are met by the same coaches that took them up to Xyloscala. It is a long round for the bus drivers and an even longer day for the tourists. This standard tour method of hurrying down the gorge, and then leaving it almost immediately, detracts from the experience and does not fully reward the effort involved. Walk outside the ‘rush hours’ and make a point of staying overnight in Ay. Roumeli if you can.
Xyloscala: entrance to the Samaria Gorge
The main trail is so well-tramped that it is easy to follow and needs no signposting. Instead, signboards indicate points of interest. Drinking water, WCs and smokers’ stopping places are provided at intervals. Do not add to the huge number of stone cairns made by thoughtless trippers within recent years. They are not a natural feature of the valley floor and, worse, they have been seen to injure the kri-kri when they run away as, naturally, they are skittish. Wardens patrol the route and a mule-borne rubbish-collection patrol operates in the late afternoon, after most walkers have gone. Keep your ticket; it is collected at the other end.
KRI-KRI
The agrimi (‘the wild one’), also known as the ‘kri-kri’, is a type of goat about the size of a sheep, with a black stripe down its back. Both sexes and even the newborn have horns, but an old male sporting the huge horns once so prized by hunters may not exist in the wild at present. Some tavernas still feature kri-kri horns as wall decorations, but these date from the time before this delightful animal was protected from hunting. Only the sight of the massive cliffs and steep mountainsides of the upper gorge can explain how the kri-kri has managed to survive into modern times. The agrimi features in Bronze Age illustrations, but since it can be tamed and milked (or eaten), archaeologists rate it as an even older native of Crete – perhaps a Neolithic domestic goat. In the spring, when there is plentiful food on the high crags, you may not see a kri-kri. But in the autumn, when food is scarce, it should be easier, as some of them – protected by the wardens – frequent the Ay. Nikolaos chapel area and Samaria old village. In spite of conservation efforts there is inter-breeding with domestic goats. Among domestic goats nearby and in the lower part of the gorge you may see half-breeds with the characteristic black stripe down their backs (see also ‘Wildlife and hunting’, above).
Walkers pause to be sure, after hearing the sound of falling rocks
The national park is officially open 1 May–31 October, with an entrance fee (€7 in 2014). These dates can vary depending on springtime trail preparation work, the level of the water in the river, and autumn weather conditions. The ‘Gorge Lazy Way’ tour, for those who cannot manage the whole walk, starts earlier in the year. Excursionists arrive by boat at Ay. Roumeli for the 2hr 30min round walk to see Portes, the very narrow and impressive so-called ‘Iron Gates’ part of the gorge.
When the gorge is open the last boat from Ay. Roumeli to Hora Sfakion departs at 1700 although this can change to 1730 or even 1830 in high season. Certain runs call in at Loutro, and another departure serves Souyia. Visit the Sfakia ferries website – details in Appendix D – for all current timetables. Journey time in either direction is about 45mins, depending on the weather. A call at Loutro adds 30mins. The last KTEL evening bus to Chania (usually packed) waits for the boat. The ticket kiosk with the daily timetable is at the bottom of Ay. Roumeli main street, on the right. You can always enquire at the Tara or Calypso tavernas on the waterfront (landlords speak English) if anything unusual seems to be happening about the schedule.
There are no commercial outlets inside the park. There is no camping. Various guidebooks are on sale at Xyloscala, Omalos and Ay. Roumeli. The park closes at the top at 1500 to through-walkers but remains open to those (usually with a hired car) who wish to walk a short way down to see the view, before returning to the top again. Organised day-tours have left Xyloscala by midday, so an early afternoon start allows you to walk down relatively undisturbed. Otherwise, since the ‘rush hour(s)’ are early morning up to about 1100, try to be first at the entrance at 0600 when the ticket kiosk opens. This early start is well worth it, as this marvellous walk is downgraded if too many people are doing it at the same time. A daily average of up to 2000 trippers is quite normal. Fortunately the gorge is so huge, and so rugged, that this foot traffic makes no serious impact. Walkers seem as nothing compared to the ravages of the thaw from the surrounding mountains as the winter ends.
The park makes a significant cultural contribution by inducing town-dwelling Cretans to rediscover the beauty and worth of their own countryside and the pleasures of walking. Locals can choose their day: overcast, cool Sundays are preferred, when whole families can be seen trooping down alongside the tourists. Local schoolteachers may also take their pupils on the walk.
At any time of year, and in spite of all the tourist activity, the gorge remains a wild, rugged and potentially hazardous place. Always be on the alert for falling rocks. Rain followed by wind dislodges them most readily. The park will be closed if such conditions are expected. Tired or injured people, who finish the trip riding one of the few ‘rescue’ mules from Samaria village (which is expensive) sometimes hurt themselves further by falling, as the pack saddles are extremely uncomfortable. On rare occasions desert-like flash floods occur in Crete, when the parched land cannot absorb the first storms of winter. It is sensible to be aware of this if a storm develops (at any time of year). Unmaintained paths off the main trail are closed to the public (due to accidents in the past) and special permission from the Forestry Directorate of Chania is needed for access to them.
Towards the end of the walk, note the Turkish fort on the western skyline above the valley. The climb to it is not as far as it looks, and for unhurried walkers (wearing boots) it makes an interesting and unconventional way of arriving at Ay. Roumeli.
WALK 3
The Ascent of Gingilos
| Start/Finish | Xyloscala 1240m (4068ft) |
| Distance | 9km (5½ miles) |
| Grade | C |
| Time | Xyloscala to top of first spur 1400m (4593ft) 40mins; spur to Linoseli spring 1500m (4921ft) 30mins; spring to Gingilos saddle 1700m (5905ft) 40mins; saddle to summit 50mins; ascent total: 2hrs 40mins (trail is clearly defined – some walkers take less time); descent total: summit to spur 1hr 40mins; spur to Xyloscala 30mins; total: 4hrs 50mins |
| Highest point | Summit of Gingilos 1964m (6443ft) |
| Height gain/loss | 724m (2375ft) |
| Access | KTEL Omalos–Xyloscala bus or taxi from Chania |
| Note | As a variation: spur direct to Omalos hamlet 1hr 40mins |
The mountain with the huge grey crag opposite Xyloscala is called Gingilos. This is the most accessible high peak of the White Mountains and the ascent, on a well-beaten footpath, is a deservedly popular walk offering spectacular views from any level. As the return is down the same way, the walk can be curtailed at any stage. On part of the 50min final ascent section minor rock-scrambling ability is needed, but hand- and footholds are easy on the rough rock. As with all Lefka Ori peaks, high winds may affect the summit area and snowdrifts may linger on steeper slopes in the early spring. Take no risks – alter your plans if conditions dictate. Take daysack essentials. For once you will not need to carry much water as Linoseli spring, which supplies Xyloscala, is halfway up the route to the summit.
From Xyloscala viewing terrace, on the west side, Gingilos crag is in front of you. Over to the southeast, Pachnes 2453m (8047ft), the highest peak of the Lefka Ori, rises beyond the east rim of the gorge. Up to the right, to the west, a massive scree slope is bordered by Gingilos crag. Note the patch of spiny burnet at its base, green in the spring and brown in the autumn, which marks the location of Linoseli spring. Note also the saddle on the skyline above the spring. The final pull to the summit is up to the point on the skyline to the left of this.
The ascent footpath starts from the front steps of the restaurant above the viewing terrace. It climbs the flank of the spur in easy-gradient zigzags. After 45mins the spine of this low spur above the Xyloscala road is reached. On the way down, for Omalos hamlet direct, you can take goat paths down the full length of the spine of this spur and then cross the plateau on service tracks.
The footpath now crosses back towards the gorge and then turns in, heading for an area of rugged pinnacles below the big scree slope. Just before the path loses height to negotiate the pinnacles, note the goat paths (splintered paths) ascending, right, to the top of the ridge.
FOR KOUSTOYERAKO VIA STRIFOMADI SUMMIT
Leave the path here and see Walk 6.
After passing through the pinnacles and a spectacular rock arch, the footpath gains height again for Linoseli spring, where there is a concrete tank surrounded by a thicket of spiny burnet, together with two stainless steel troughs and a drinking water tap. The footpath continues from the spring, zigzagging up the firmer side of the scree, alongside crags and boulders.
The saddle, a pleasant place to be on a fine settled day, thinly divides the Samaria and Tripiti gorges. Over to the east, the red-roofed Kallergi mountain refuge has been in view for some time with Melendaou behind, its huge stratified cliff forming the northeast rim of the gorge.
Lammergeiers (bearded vultures), identifiable by their diamond-shaped tails, often soar above at midday. The largest birds in Europe, they roost on inaccessible crags of the Tripiti Gorge, which is now in view. At any time elsewhere in the mountains these huge birds may be seen gliding by on a foraging trip.
A branch of the E4 Trail is signposted at the north end of the saddle (see Walk 6). This is an unfrequented shepherds’ path that undulates across steep crags and scree, forming a Grade D shortcut route to Koustoyerako (Walk 6). Another signpost (2014) warns of the danger of descending into the Tripiti Gorge. There are cliffs and crags lower down making it impassable to the south coast.
Southwards, splintered paths continue up from the saddle. On the first section, which is steep, when bare rock takes over from heathland it is easier to climb up more solid rock a little to the right. A spindly fence surrounds a dangerous karst hole in the rocks. The route, marked with vertical standing stones designed to show above snow in the spring, levels out before climbing again and rocks are variously waymarked; in general the route bears left at this stage. The tiny white chapel of Profitis Elias Tripitis is in view far below, to the west, on a crag where the Tripiti Gorge meets the sea near Souyia (Trek 10). Once above the rocks the footpath levels out again, zigzagging up less steeply.
A large cairn marks Gingilos summit. A subsidiary rocky summit to the east lies nearer the rim of the gorge. Volakias 2116m (6942ft), the highest peak of the western massif, is next along the ridge to the south.
The climb to the ‘Gingilos saddle’ above Linoseli spring
Extension onto Volakias summit
Standing stones mark the way to Volakias. Descend steeply from Gingilos summit to the small saddle that separates the two peaks.
Beyond Volakias there are two long, crag-ridden, waterless ridgetops between the Samaria, Klados and Tripiti gorges. A path along one of them is shown on the Anavasi map. Even so, both are Grade E expeditions that cannot be done in one day from the Linoseli spring without an experienced guide who already knows the way. Rock scrambling and scree slopes are involved and there is no water. To the west, across the Tripiti Gorge, the Achlada Valley, part of Walk 6 to Koustoyerako, is in view. Looking east, note the ridge leading up to Melendaou (Walk 5 and Trek 6), and then follow the profile of the mountains south from Pachnes to identify Zaranokefala and its summit crag (Trek 7).
Return to Gingilos summit the same way.
Return to Xyloscala the same way you came up.
Direct route to Omalos
For Omalos direct (instead of Xyloscala) peel off down the spur above the road. Keep to the spine of this ridge right to its end, where you have a bird’s-eye view of the plateau. Before reaching this viewpoint, you will pass a ruined shepherds’ hut on the left. A huge and very old circular water cistern is also nearby. Note the layout of the plateau’s service tracks, because once you are on level ground you will not be able to see the track you want to use. At the viewpoint, cross over to the left for the final descent on a slope that is free of undergrowth. At the bottom, follow sheep paths that link to a dirt road, where you turn right.
WALK 4
Xyloscala to Kallergi Refuge
| Start | Xyloscala 1240m (4068ft) |
| Finish | Kallergi Refuge 1680m (5511ft) |
| Distance | 3km (1¾ miles) |
| Grade | A |
| Time | 2hrs |
| Highest point | Kallergi Refuge 1680m (5511ft) |
| Height gain | 440m (1443ft) |
| Access | KTEL Omalos bus or taxi from Chania |
| Access to finish | From Trek 6A, or shepherds’ road from Omalos |
The red-roofed Kallergi Refuge, perched high on the northwest rim of the Samaria Gorge, was built in 1971 and later leased to mountain guide Joseph Schwemburger, who ran it as an Alpine-style catering enterprise for many years. Attracting walking groups and individual trekkers, it is now managed by the Greek Mountaineering Association (Mountain Club of Chania), its facilities and purpose remaining the same. It is open to passers-by from April to October (and at weekends in winter). For reservations (2015) tel: 6976 585849 but visit the Kallergi website for latest information. Facilities include full board and private bunkroom, or a roof-space dormitory. Bottled water, refreshments and meals are available to passers-by. This is a popular base for the ascents of Melendaou and Gingilos, requiring a two- or three-night stay, and is also a stopping point on the trekking route to Katsiveli and beyond (Trek 6). A shepherds’ road (not for taxis) serves the refuge before continuing on to Poria under the northern flank of Melendaou.
E4 Trail: looking down the great scree slope. The road to Kallergi refuge is seen on the opposite hillside
Leave Xyloscala on the east side via the footpath signboard, which reads 1hr 20mins to Kallergi. Within 40mins join the shepherds’ road from the plateau and continue up on this – optional shortcuts occasionally appear. A small stone-built corbelled shepherds’ shelter with a World War II memorial plaque marks the top. Kallergi is in sight, 5mins away. (Keep right – sometimes thick mist envelops the clifftop.)
WALK 5
Kallergi Refuge to Melendaou
| Start/Finish | Kallergi Refuge 1680m (5511ft) |
| Distance | 16km (10 miles) |
| Grade | C |
| Time | Kallergi to Poria 1500m (4921ft) 50mins; Poria to top of ridge at Psari 1817m (5902ft) 1hr 10mins; ridge walk to Melendaou saddle 1900m (6233ft) 1hr; saddle to summit 1hr 15mins; ascent total: 4hrs 15mins; descent: summit to Kallergi 2hrs 30mins via E4 Trail; total: 6hrs 45mins |
| Highest point | Melendaou 2133m (6998ft) |
| Height gain | 483m (1583ft) |
| Access | Walk 4 from Xyloscala, or shepherds’ road from Omalos |
Using Kallergi Refuge as a convenient starting point, Melendaou 2133m (6998ft) – towering to the northeast above the Samaria Gorge – can be reached as a day-walk, allowing non-backpackers a chance of views towards the heart of the range. As it is on the regular schedule of walking groups staying at Kallergi, this route is well-tramped and partly waymarked. Kallergi is 50mins’ walk, on the shepherds’ road, to the base of the long ridge leading up to Melendaou. For a circular walk, approach the peak from along the top of this ridge and then return to Kallergi by dropping down (on the waymarked E4 Trail) to the shepherds’ road alongside it.
From Kallergi walk east (take a shortcut path down from the refuge at first) on the shepherds’ road to Poria, a bracken-filled meadow at the foot of the long ridge. On the right, note a Samaria Gorge wardens’ hut and also a shepherds’ old stone hut restored by the EOS as an unlocked shelter. Head straight for the steep hillside in front of you, southeast, where waymarks guide you up splintered footpaths to a small peak, Psari, at the ridgetop.
Now overlooking the gorge and almost level with Melendaou’s huge stratified cliff, start along one of the best ridge walks in Crete. This takes in (or bypasses, to choice) one or two ridgetop peaks. After about 50mins arrive at a saddle below the steep ascent ridge (E4 Trail) leading to Melendaou summit. As you climb, look out for red paint waymarks that direct you off the E4 Trail to the summit. The E4 Trail, once it is beyond the stratified cliff, turns east for Potamos and Katsiveli (Trek 6).
The return route to Kallergi (E4 Trail poles) descends from this saddle, via a northwesterly traverse followed by a steep path down to the shepherds’ road.
From the summit (where there is a trig point), Kaloros 1925m (6315ft) obscures the view down to Chania. A section of the Trek 1 route is in sight, on the way up to Kolokithas. The Potamos Valley (Trek 5) is 140°SE, with the Pachnes massif and Zaranokefala beyond it. Modaki 2224m (7297ft), one of several cone-shaped peaks of the Madares, rises above Katsiveli.
WALK 6
Xyloscala to Koustoyerako via Strifomadi
| Start | Xyloscala 1240m (4068ft) |
| Finish | Koustoyerako 500m (1640ft) |
| Distance | 14km (8¾ miles) |
| Grade | D |
| Time | Xyloscala to goat paths turn-off 1500m (4921ft) 1hr; to Strifomadi summit 1hr 50mins; summit to Achlada Valley 1600m (5249ft) 1hr; Achlada to Olisma 1000m (3280ft) 1hr 50mins; to Koustoyerako 1hr; total: 7hrs 10mins. For Koustoyerako down to Souyia on foot add 2hrs |
| Highest point | Summit of Strifomadi 1921m (6302ft) |
| Height gain | 681m (2234ft) |
| Height loss | 1421m (4662ft) |
| Access | KTEL Omalos bus or taxi from Chania |
| Access to finish | Taxi from Souyia |
| Note | For those equipped to camp, this is a pleasant two-day route. |
This is a spectacular mountain route from the Omalos Plain to Koustoyerako and Souyia. Branching off from the Gingilos footpath, it takes in Strifomadi summit before making a long descent to the southwest over hillsides high above the Tripiti Gorge. More centrally placed and just as accessible as Gingilos, Strifomadi offers a better all-round view, but the steep summit approach makes this a walk rarely tackled by organised groups. This walk suits May–November, if the snowdrift under Strifomadi summit is passable. Take daysack essentials and a minimum of two litres of water per person.
Alternatively, a section of the E4 Trail from Gingilos saddle bypasses the summit route, on a shortcut that may appeal to experienced mountain walkers with a good head for heights, and if the weather is settled. As much of this E4 shortcut is loose underfoot it is easiest to walk it from east to west, as it is then mainly uphill. However, since heavy deluges seem now to be commonplace, natural erosion may at any time wreck some part of this small footpath.
Follow Walk 3 to the goat paths turn-off before the pinnacles.
For Strifomadi summit
Ascend the ridge. A spindly iron fence borders the top edge of the cliff on the mountainside below the summit. The footpath ascends near the fence until, after gaining most of the height, it traverses right to finish the climb on an easier gradient. If snowdrifts linger, the fence is a useful safety guide. The summit is the highest point above the huge cliff at the head of the Tripiti Gorge.
For the E4 Trail (6A)
For the E4 Trail (6A), which crosses this huge cliff well below the summit, continue up to Gingilos saddle (Walk 3). This section of the E4 is a shepherds’ or hunters’ route across steep crags and scree. It is waymarked with paint and E4 poles. It is not suitable for those who suffer from vertigo, or who are encumbered with heavy packs, or if the weather is unsettled: that is, if there is likely to be thick mist, rain or strong winds.
Losing height from the saddle at first, this route then climbs to the top of the thin ridge above the great scree slope. From there it gains more height, undulating across scree, crags, and two sections of bare rock, one a vertical (steep) section, one horizontal. Steel wire handrails fixed across the bare rock have suffered storm damage. The wire across a steep sloping rock is no longer in the best position. The highest point of the route is reached on the spine of a wide, shallow spur descending from the Strifomadi summit area. Beyond that, the path loses height to negotiate a re-entrant (several sections are eroded and loose) before climbing again to reach the rim of the west side of the gorge. In the spring a last snowdrift may block the path in this re-entrant. If so there is a steep, but safe, escape route up the shallow spur to the summit, which is almost in sight not far beyond the skyline.
Beyond the western rim of the gorge – in sight whether you have reached it by walking along the summit ridge or via the E4 ‘shortcut ’ – the route continues to the southwest down a bare hillside to trees seen at the foot of a snowmelt watercourse. Beyond, an isolated bare ridge runs east–west above the Achlada valley.
Now clear of the summit crag, turn southwards and make your way downhill fairly near the gorge rim, to avoid a watercourse gully on the right. When you arrive at the E4 pole (which marks the end of the shortcut footpath from Gingilos saddle), turn away from the gorge. The path is now much more distinct. Within a few minutes pass a small spring with, possibly, a very old small wooden trough. Birds may alert you to its location but note that it may not be running late in the year.
E4 Trail: heading for Achlada
The path continues its descent southwest above the gully that has been in view on the descent, and which develops into a ravine. As you approach the first big crag on the west side of the ravine, look carefully for the continuation of the path. It climbs above this crag to continue high above the ravine. This is the approach to the Achlada Valley and the path follows through, beside cypress trees, to bring you out at the head of the valley. Pass a ruined stone hut, and another with a broken concrete roof. Part of its former cheese store room provides a storm shelter. There is also a new hut (locked) and a cistern (poor water). In 1943 this remote valley was one of the hideouts of the Koustoyerako band of World War II Resistance fighters led by New Zealander Dudley Perkins.
Continue for 20mins down the valley, on the E4 waymarked footpath above the watercourse, to a concrete flat-topped cistern (good water) and a roofless stone hut. A fenced water trough near the cistern operates with a ball-valve device. This is a very remote place; check that it is working, as Koustoyerako villagers will need to know if it is not. Cross the riverbed to rejoin the path as it enters the trees. Old charcoal-making sites in the oak forest, and a kalderimi (paved mule track) that bypasses a drop of large boulders, can be seen on the way down.
After about 3km, at an altitude of 1000m (3280ft), the riverbed turns sharply left and south. This place is called Olisma. Here mature pines survived the 1994 Souyia Valley fire. Still very far below, the valley is glimpsed through the trees. Note Walk 7 from Ay. Theodoros comes in at this turning.
After about 12mins, with the riverbed developing into a ravine, take a kalderimi ascending out of it, left. Follow this old trail over and down to a fenced concrete cistern, a modern stone-built chapel and a dirt road. Here the mountainside is cut to bits by roadworks and Koustoyerako is in sight, still quite far below, under the brow of Ochra crag.
Village vineyards feature on a wide saddle beyond the pine forest. Descend via the road and sections of footpath, E4-waymarked, to this saddle with its large concrete water tank (locked). Continue down the road, passing a waterpoint and concrete ‘washboard’ terrace before you enter the village.
Koustoyerako has two kafeneia, but they are unlikely to be open. A Souyia taxi can be called, but expect to wait because they are usually busy. There are no rooms because Koustoyerako villagers channel their enterprise into the beach resort of Souyia. However, trekking groups sometimes camp here (enquire).
Koustoyerako to Souyia
The footpath down to Livada village (30mins) starts alongside the kafeneon (closed) near the War Memorial, on the plateia. A delightful path in the spring, this old mule track negotiates the steep vegetated hillside, losing height through shady olive groves and across flower-strewn terracing. Turn left, south, when you reach the main road to walk (for 30mins) through Livada and downhill as far as a T-junction, where a dirt road heads due south. Follow this dirt road for the remaining 1hr walk to Souyia. When you reach a T-junction, turn left, uphill, to find the E4 sparsely waymarked footpath section down to the riverbed. Alternatively, turn right and follow the road down to the riverbed.
WALK 6A
Koustoyerako to Xyloscala via Strifomadi
| Start | Koustoyerako 500m (1640ft) |
| Finish | Xyloscala 1240m (4068ft) |
| Distance | 14km (8¾ miles) |
| Grade | D |
| Time | Koustoyerako to Olisma 1000m (3280ft) 2hrs 30mins; to Achlada cistern 1300m (4265ft) 1hr 30mins; to summit 3hrs; to Xyloscala 2hrs; total: 9hrs. From Souyia to Koustoyerako on foot add 3hrs. |
| Highest point | Summit of Strifomadi 1921m (6302ft) |
| Height gain | 1421m (4662ft) |
| Height loss | 681m (2234ft) |
| Access | Taxi from Souyia |
| Access to finish | KTEL Omalos bus or taxi from Chania |
As well as that described in Walk 6, there is an alternative walking route from Souyia up to Koustoyerako. Take a minimum of two litres water per person.
On foot from Souyia
Cross the riverbed on the E4 Trail (see Trek 10A) and ascend the marked footpath to reach the first dirt road of the hillside. Here turn left, and then uphill, right, at the next junction. Walk up this road as far as a stand of beehives (a potentially non-permanent feature), just under the south-facing side of a spur descending the hillside. Now make your way straight up this spur, which is free of the crags that are a feature of the hillside further north near Livada village. By doing this, you will encounter a road at about 500m (1640ft), which contours northwards directly to Koustoyerako. This road serves a radio station that overlooks the coast. If you happened to tramp this otherwise likely-looking road south from Koustoyerako, and arrived at its end, you would then have to clamber down a very steep hillside to reach the E4 coastal path.
Reverse the route notes for Walk 6 from here. Where the route divides at Olisma: north is Walk 7 in reverse, east is for Walk 6 in reverse.
It is easy to reverse the route described in Walk 6. From the ‘beehive’ spur, continue on the dirt road to the T-junction with the main Koustoyerako road. Turn uphill for Livada, a linear village perched on a steep hillside. After passing the last outlying hamlet of Livada, which is sited on a spur below the road, keep a careful lookout for roadside cairns that mark the footpath up to Koustoyerako. There is woodland here. The path gains height steeply, passing through terraced olive groves.
