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There are many more different varieties of spinach available in the supermarkets and greengrocers now than before but they never seem to name them – the packaging just simply states the generic name. I find this annoying, as I have to spend time describing the variety I am after, but I love all spinach, with its iron-y taste and melting softness when cooked.

There is one variety that I particularly enjoy – it arrives in spring and is mainly imported from France or Italy. Unlike the usual spinach you see in the shops whose stems have been cut individually, this variety is sold with the cluster of stems attached together at the base of the plant where it has been cut from the root. The stems are fairly short, only 5–6cm, and are pink below a canopy of deeply crinkled, dark and dense leaves. It is the more robust texture and flavour that I love, compared with the larger-leaved varieties. I have tried to discover the name but no one could help.

If you manage to find this variety, keep all the stems attached when braising in the olive oil, as they are full of flavour and look lively on the plate.