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Equipment Overview

The very basic requirements for creating letterforms are pen, pencil, ink, paper, and a drawing board, but before long you will probably want to add other items to your toolbox, such as some of those listed in the following pages. You will need some of these extra items in order to complete all the projects in this book. Buy these items gradually, getting the best you can afford, which will pay dividends over time. Good equipment not only gives satisfaction in use, but, as long as it is properly looked after, will last for many years.

essential equipment

To start practicing calligraphy, you will need just a small toolbox of essential equipment.

Brushes: Load nibs and mix paints with inexpensive brushes; keep the best quality sables for fine finished work (see page).

Dip pens: A dip pen consists of a pen holder that can be fixed with nibs of various sizes and ink reservoirs, if required (see pages 16 and 26). It can be used with ink or paint (see page).

Drawing board: You will need a board at least 16” x 23” (A2 size/420 x 594mm), preferably larger, to work on. Instead of buying a board, you can easily make your own, quite cheaply, from an offcut of medium-density fiberboard (MDF) (see page).

Ink: Use non-waterproof ink bought in bottles (see page).

Masking tape: A low-tack masking tape should be used to attach paper to the drawing board surface; it can be removed easily.

Metal ruler or straight edge: This should be used for cutting paper or cardstock with a scalpel or craft knife; a plastic ruler will be quickly damaged by sharp scalpel blades.

Paper: You will need a variety of papers, depending on the nature of the project, as well as layout and tracing paper to make roughs (see page).

Pencils: Have a #2 (H or HB) pencil handy for ruling lines (see page).

Plastic eraser: This should be soft enough not to smudge or spoil lettering.

Transparent ruler: An 18” (45cm) clear plastic ruler will be the most useful for ruling lines because you can see your work through it.

useful additions

These additions to the basic toolbox will be necessary as you progress from the early writing exercises to working on the projects

Bone folder: This specialty tool is used for scoring and folding paper and is available from suppliers of bookbinding materials, as well as at larger local craft stores.

Compasses and dividers: You will need these to draw circles and mark points for ruling lines. Springbow dividers have a central screw to retain a set measurement.

Cutting mat: This is a special mat made from “self-healing” rubber that does not blunt or damage scalpel or craft knife blades. Thick cardstock is a cheaper, temporary alternative.

Knife: A scalpel with disposable blades should be used for trimming out finished work. A pointed blade is best for this, but scalpels have different blades for different applications. Use a craft or Stanley knife for heavy cardstock, as the stronger blades will withstand the extra pressure required without snapping. Both knives are useful for sharpening your pencils to a really sharp point.

Paint: Designer’s gouache is the most commonly used paint for writing with a dip pen. Watercolor paints are used to make background washes (see page).

Palette: A china palette with a number of small wells can be used for mixing paint. A lidded china palette will keep paints from drying out.

Repositionable glue: Cow gum is a non-permanent glue that is useful for making paste-up layouts, since it can be repositioned. Glue sticks and glue tapes are also available in repositionable formulas.

Ruling pen: This pen can be used to rule neat, straight lines in ink or paint. It can also be used to write with.

Scissors: Good, sharp scissors are an alternative to a scalpel for paste-ups, but they won’t give an accurate enough line for trimming out finished work.

Triangle (set square): Get an adjustable one if possible—it helps with checking pen angles and ruling lines easily at different angles as well as the normal, right-angle lines.

T-square: Using one of these makes ruling up writing lines much easier as it hooks over the left-hand edge of the drawing board, allowing you to make an accurate horizontal line.

specialty extras

The following tools and materials are needed for specific tasks or processes. Some of these items are available only from specialty shops (see page).

Arkansas stone: Used for sharpening nibs (see page). A cheaper alternative would be to use 400-grade wet-and-dry paper.

Ink stick and ink stone: The ink stick is ground into a little distilled water on the ink stone to make your own ink (see pages).

Gum ammoniac: This plant resin is soaked in water to make a size (glue) for gold leaf. It is also available as a pre-made solution.

Gum arabic: This substance helps paint flow when the paper surface is slightly shiny or greasy. It can be bought as crystals to be crushed or dissolved in distilled water, or as a pre-made solution.

Gum sandarach: In ground form, this material can be dusted over the surface of greasy papers to achieve a crisper line.

Masking fluid: A rubber solution that can be applied with a pen or synthetic brush as a resist fluid, repelling paint or ink laid over the top of it.

Ox gall liquid: Like gum arabic, this substance aids the paint flow from a pen or brush.

Pounce: This fine powder is used to remove grease from the paper surface.

White (PVA) glue: A permanent adhesive that dries clear. Buy an acid-free variety to avoid long-term damage to paper. Mixed with water, it makes a gesso for gilding. Can also be used as a varnish.

looking after your materials

Taking care of your tools in the following ways will ensure that they continue to produce great results for you.

Rinse and wipe nibs and reservoirs during and after use, to keep them from getting clogged with ink. Agitate the pen to loosen the ink, then dry off the nib and reservoir on a paper towel, but avoid catching loose fibers in the nib tines. Change the water from time to time.

Always wash brushes out thoroughly after use. Rinse first under running warm water, then rub over a cake of soap and lather gently to loosen any paint or ink. Rinse again in warm water, repeating the soap and rinse stages until the water runs clear. Dry carefully on a paper towel and repoint the bristles. If any hairs stick out, another touch on the soap will help them back in place.

Replace caps and lids on containers to prevent evaporation and spillage. A pad of masking tape on the bottom of the bottle is a good way to prevent accidents.

Save your blades by pushing them into a cork or piece of eraser when not in use.