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ОглавлениеThe Japanese Kitchen
Japan needs no introduction. With its gross national product accounting for 11% of world production, Japan ranks third after the United States and West Germany as a world trader. It has also become a major partner in many American industries and is giving failing U.S. auto and steel companies a fresh start with infusions of Japanese capital and management. With these economic successes has come a broad series of steps on the part of the Japanese government, education, and business sectors to encourage the development of an international perspective in every aspect of Japanese life. When compared with other nations, Japan has far more knowledge about the rest of the world than most other nations, and Japan has also been more receptive to foreign ideas and foreign technologies. Yet despite these strong influences from the outside, the Japanese, while contributing to the international community, have managed to preserve their cultural heritage and to take pride in being Japanese. Their cuisine is part of this cultural heritage and it has not only been kept intact but is finding devotees all over the world.
Japanese cooking, the most elegantly simple cuisine in the world, stands apart from all other Asian cuisines. Unlike other Asian cooking styles, which tend to combine many ingredients in one dish and to rely on exotic foodstuffs or spice blends, Japanese cuisine emphasizes the unique flavor and character of each food so that all will have equal importance in taste as well as appearance. The insistence on the quality and integrity of the natural food derives from a long history of a reverence for "nature and a sense of harmony with the seasons. Only the freshest, most perfect specimen will make this possible, and only the simplest cooking methods are necessary. Seasonings are used with restraint because the aim is to enhance, not mask, the intrinsic properties of each food. Additional excitement is imparted when it is brought to the table by serving small portions of each food separately in aesthetic arrangements designed to appeal to the eye as well as to the palate. Just as much attention is given to choosing the right bowl or plate as to the preparation of the food itself.
Because of the recent concern in the United States for health and fitness, more attention has been focused on the virtues of Japanese cooking, with its sparing use of fats and its reliance on fish and soy products rather than beef as a source of protein. Not, only is it gaining popularity in the United States, it is also influencing the direction of international cuisine. In some California and New York restaurants, a happy culinary marriage has taken shape combining the Japanese philosophy of aesthetics and simplicity with the French eye for detail of the school of la nouvelle cuisine.
The organization of Japanese cooking is not at all like Western cooking, with its main course preceded by soup or an appetizer and ending with a dessert or an assortment of cheeses. Nor is it like Chinese cooking. At a Chinese meal, foods are brought to the table in large serving dishes from which each diner takes a portion. The Japanese serve each food in individual separate bowls or dishes that are set on a tray or on the table in front of each diner according to prescribed rules for their placement. For instance, rice is usually placed on the left and soup to the right, and dipping sauces or condiments are placed to the right of the dishes they are intended for.
In a traditional Japanese meal, it is customary to serve a soup and three other dishes (ichiju sansai) followed by rice and pickles. Since foods are generally classified according to their cooking methods, the items in a particular meal are chosen both for their seasonal availability and for the variety of cooking techniques. A typical dinner menu may include both fish and meat or several kinds of fish and vegetables prepared in different ways. The soup is often eaten near the end of the meal. There are no desserts. The meal usually ends with fresh fruit. With the exception of rice and soup, which should be served hot, most Japanese dishes are served at room temperature.
Therefore, preparing a Japanese-style meal can be done in a leisurely manner without the fear that all the dishes may not be finished at the same time. While the presentation of Japanese dishes is artful and elegant, cooking methods are simple and quick. As in Chinese cooking, everything is cooked only until it is just done; not a moment more. Most of the time is spent preparing, cutting, and slicing.
The recipes that follow are arranged as they would appear in a Japanese cookbook, according to their cooking methods. There are foods simmered in seasoned liquids (nimono), broiled foods (yakimono), steamed foods (mushimono), mixed foods with dressings (aemono), vinegared foods (sunomono), deep-fried foods (agemono), and one-pot table-top cookery (nabemono). There are also noodles (menrui), rice (gohan) and sushi, and soups (dashi, suimono, and shirumono). Mention is made whenever these dishes can double as appetizers (zensai).
Adapting Japanese Food to a Low-Sodium,
Low-Cholesterol Diet
For those on low-cholesterol diets, Japanese cooking is perfect. The proof lies in the fact that the incidence of heart disease in Japan is very low in comparison to that in the United States, although the recent popularity in Japanese metropolitan areas of hamburgers, butter, cream, and ice cream has been changing these statistics. Unfortunately, the reverse is true for those who wish to cut down on sodium. Of the three most essential of Japanese staples, all derived from the soybean—soybean curd (tofu), soy sauce (shoyu), and fermented soybean paste (miso) —soy sauce and soybean paste pose grave problems for those who wish to cut down on sodium. They are used generously in soups, sauces, dressings, and marinades, as well as in grilled foods. There are approximately 320 mg of sodium in one teaspoon of Kikkoman's standard soy sauce and 170 mg in the low-sodium product. Frequently as much as a quarter of a cup is used in a single dish (which is equal to twelve teaspoons, or 3,840 mg of sodium if you use the standard soy sauce and 2,040 mg if you use the low-sodium product). In contrast, soybean curd, a subtle tasting, custard-like food, is low in sodium and fat and rich in protein. But it is usually cooked with other foods in sauces that contain either soy sauce or soybean paste. The liberal use of these two staples, as well as salt, has affected the health of many Japanese. The incidence of hypertension is high in Japan, but it is highest in the north, where farmers preserve their food in salt.
Since authenticity is not the goal of this book, the quantity of soy sauce in all these recipes has been substantially reduced and has been limited to Kikkoman's low-sodium soy sauce, which has 40% less sodium in it than the standard product. To compensaté for this, more reliance has been placed on other typically Japanese flavors such as horseradish, ginger, and sweet-and-sour sauces. Together with these, generous sprinklings are recommended of ground sansho, a fragrant, tangy but not hot spice, and shichimi togarashi (seven-spice mixture), a powdered blend of red pepper, sansho, dried mandarin orange peel, sesame seeds, poppy seeds, nori (seaweed bits), and hemp seeds, as effective flavor additions when cooking without salt. The seven-spice mixture is available in small bottles at very modest cost. In Japan it is not uncommon to buy it from a spice merchant who will mix it in proportions to suit your personal taste. If neither of these is available to you, substitute black pepper for the sansho, and crushed dried chilies or cayenne pepper for shichimi togarashi though, of course, the flavors are not the same.
Perhaps the best way to begin cooking Japanese food is to choose a single dish that can be worked in with a more familiar menu. Don't overlook one-pot meals, which are cooked at the table, or scattered sushi, a cold rice salad with seafood and vegetables. These one-dish meals are by far the simplest to prepare and the most congenial to serve. Whatever you decide, let three words be your guide: freshness, simplicity, and beauty.
Stocks and Soups
(Dashi, Suimono, and Shirumono)
Basic Stock
(Dashi)
Dashi is a stock made from dried bonito fish (katsuobushi) and dried kelp (kombu). Equivalent to our chicken and beef stocks, it is used in the cooking of many meat, poultry, and fish dishes. It is what gives Japanese food its most characteristic flavor.
Ichiban dashi, or first dashi, is the foundation of clear soups (sumashi), to which is added a morsel of fish or chicken, a slice of vegetable or bean curd, and a decorative garnish to aesthetically complement and add fragrance to the whole.
Niban dashi, or second dashi, is a weaker stock made from the leftover ingredients of first dashi and is used as a cooking stock in place of water when preparing boiled foods.
Dashi is much easier to make from scratch than chicken broth, but just as busy Western cooks use canned chicken broth instead of making their own, so do Japanese cooks use instant dashi. Called dashi-no-moto, it comes powdered, in cubes, or in bags Jike tea bags, with instructions in English. However, it is not recommended for frequent use, because it contains added salt and monosodium glutamate. If none of these ingredients is available, you may substitute chicken stock (p. 10). It must be light, crystal clear, and without a trace of fat. If you use canned broth, use the low-sodium kind. Chill it first and skim off the fat; then dilute it with a little water. Serve the soup in a cup-like bowl, not the wide, shallow bowls in which Western soups are served. The Japanese often use a lacquered bowl with a lid, which not only keeps the soup hot but seals in the delicate aroma.
First Dashi
(Ichiban dashi)
6 cups water
2-inch square kombu (dried kelp)
1 cup flaked katsuobushi (dried bonito)
1. Bring water and kombu to a boil over high heat. Immediately remove kombu and set aside.
2. Stir in the katsuobushi flakes and turn off the heat. Let the dashi rest for 2 or 3 minutes or until the flakes sink to the bottom of the pot.
3. Strain the stock through a colander lined with 2 or 3 layers of cheesecloth. This is the first dashi.
Second Dashi
(Niban dashi)
1. Add 6 cups of water to the kombu and katsuobushi used in the first dashi.
2. Add ¼ cup additional katsuobushi flakes. Bring to a boil and simmer 10 minutes.
3. Strain through a cloth-lined colander. Discard the katsuobushi and kombu.
To ensure full flavor, dashi is best used immediately, though it may be refrigerated for 1 or 2 days.
Note: Salt is probably used in the drying of kelp and bonito, but no figures exist for how much sodium is extracted when dashi is prepared. Therefore, whenever dashi is called for in the following recipes, the sodium count for chicken stock, its substitute, will be used in doing the nutrient analysis.
Clear Soup
(O-sumashi)
4 cups first dashi (p. 9), or chicken stock (p. 10)
1 teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce
Powdered sansho (Japanese pepper) to taste
1. Bring the stock to a boil. Reduce heat and add the soy sauce.
2. Add ingredients suggested in the following recipes or create variations of your own. They should provide contrast in shape, color, and texture. One morsel may be a slice of mushroom, bamboo shoot, water chestnut, or lemon peel. Another may be long and thin, such as a strip of carrot, scallion, or green bean. A whole cooked shrimp, an oyster or clam in half-shell, or a cube of tofu or chicken may be used. Finally, a delicate leafy garnish should be added such as trefoil, watercress, parsley, spinach leaf, or green onion top. Three well-chosen morsels per bowl are usually enough.
3. If a thicker soup is desired, 1-2 teaspoons of cornstarch dissolved in a little water may be added.
| Yield: 4 servings | Cooking time: 10 minutes |
| Calories per serving: 40 | Total fat: 0 g |
| Saturated fat: 0 g | Polyunsaturated fat: 0 g |
| Cholesterol: 0 mg | Sodium: 65 mg |
Chicken Stock
(Tori-gara no Dashi)
This is an adaptation of the American Heart Association's recipe for chicken broth.
2 quarts water
2 pounds meaty chicken bones, such as backs, peeled necks, wings
1 large onion, quartered
6 peppercorns, crushed
2-inch length fresh ginger root, peeled
1 carrot, sliced
1. Combine all the ingredients in a soup kettle, bring to a boil, and simmer partially covered for 1 ½ hours. Skim off froth.
2. Line a colander with 2 or 3 layers of cheesecloth and strain the stock, discarding the bones. Adjust yield to 4 cups either by adding water or boiling down excess broth.
3. Strain a second time and chill. Remove the fat that congeals on the surface. Refrigerate and use as required. Result should be a clear, amber-colored stock without a trace of fat.
| Yield: About 4 cups | Cooking time: 1½ hours |
| Calories per cup: 40 | Total fat: 0 g |
| Saturated Fat: 0 g | Polyunsaturated Fat: 0 g |
| Cholesterol: 0 mg | Sodium: 20 mg |
Soybean Curd and Scallion Soup
(Tofu no Suimono)
½-inch slice of fresh ginger root
4 cups dashi (p. 9), or chicken stock (p. 10)
1 teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce
4 ounces soybean curd (tofu), cut into 4 equal parts
4 thin rounds of carrot
2 scallions, cut into very thin circles
Powdered sansho (Japanese pepper), or black pepper, to taste
1. Mince the ginger root and extract the juice (1 teaspoon). Set aside.
2. Bring dashi to a boil. Add the soy sauce and tofu and simmer 3 or 4 minutes.
3. Add carrots and simmer 1 more minute. Add the ginger juice.
4. Garnish with scallions and sprinkle pepper to taste.
| Yield: 4 servings | Cooking time: 10 minutes |
| Calories per serving: 75 | Total fat: 2 g |
| Saturated Fat: 0.5 g | Polyunsaturated fat: 1 g |
| Cholesterol: 0 mg | Sodium: 70 mg |
Shrimp and Snow Pea Soup
(Ebi no Suimono)
4 medium shrimps
4 cups dashi (p. 9), or chicken stock (p. 10)
1 teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce
4 snow peas
4 small sprigs watercress
4 thin strips lemon peel
Powdered sansho (Japanese pepper), or black pepper to taste
1. Bring 2 cups water to a boil. Drop in the shrimp and boil 2-3 minutes or until they turn pink. Drain, shell, and devein. Set aside.
2. Bring the dashi to a boil. Add the soy sauce, snow peas, and shrimps and cook 30 seconds.
3. Arrange a shrimp, snow pea, and watercress sprig at the bottom of each bowl in a pleasing design. Pour hot soup on top being careful not to disturb the arrangement. Float a strip of lemon peel on top and sprinkle a dash of sansho over all. Serve hot.
| Yield: 4 servings | Cooking time: 10 minutes |
| Calories per serving: 60 | Total fat: 1.4 g |
| Saturated fat: Trace | Polyunsaturated fat: 0.5 g |
| Cholesterol: 15 mg | Sodium: 85 mg |
Variation: Cooked chicken may be substituted for the shrimp.
Clam Soup
(Hamaguri Ushiojitate)
8 small live cherrystone clams in shells
4 cups dashi (p. 9), chicken stock (p. 10), or water
4 mushrooms
¼-½ teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce taste
1 tablespoon Japanese saké
4 sprigs trefoil (mitsuba), or watercress leaves
4 very thin slices lemon or lime
Powdered sansho (Japanese pepper) or black pepper to taste
1. Scrub clams thoroughly under cold running water to remove sand.
2. Combine clams and water and bring to a boil over high heat. Continue to boil until clam shells open. Skim off froth.
3. Add mushrooms, soy sauce and saké 1 and simmer 1 minute. Remove from heat.
4. Place 2 clams in their shells in each of 4 bowls Decoratively garnish with a mushroom, trefoil or watercress leaf, and lemon slice. Strain the broth as you fill each bowl, being careful not to disturb the arrangement. Serve hot.
| Yield: 4 servings | Cooking time: 10 minutes |
| Calories per serving: 70 | Total fat: 0.5 g |
| Saturated fat: Trace | Polyunsaturated fat: Trace |
| Cholesterol: 15 mg | Sodium: 75 mg |
Variation: Parboiled snow peas or asparagus tips may be included or substituted for the mushrooms.
Clear Soup with Soybean Paste
(Misoshiru)
Breakfast would not be breakfast for most Japanese without misoshiru. A simple soup flavored with soybean paste, it is also served at the end of a formal Japanese meal. Like soy sauce, miso is used as a flavoring in many Japanese dishes. Unfortunately it is very high in sodium, though exact counts are difficult to ascertain because of tremendous variation in its production.* Two types are usually available, white and red. The white is sweet and less salty than the red. To exclude miso completely from Japanese cuisine would be unthinkable, so for the purposes of this book, only two recipes are included, miso soup and dengaku (pp. 32-33). The quantity of miso in both recipes has been considerably reduced. For example, one recipe for miso soup calls for 1 cup of miso paste to make 6 cups of soup. Simple arithmetic will show the astronomical amount of sodium contained in a single cup. As there are about 284 mg of sodium in one teaspoon of miso paste (1 cup=16 tablespoons or 48 teaspoons), there are 284x48 teaspoons=13,632 mg of sodium in a pot of 6 cups of soup, or 2,272 mg in a single serving of miso soup. That is the amount the American Heart Association recommends for a single day, not a single cup of soup! One can see that for strict sodium watchers, miso should be eaten only occasionally, if at all. Perhaps the best solution is for the producers of miso to put out a low-sodium product with reliable labeling. Although such a product is available in Japan, I have looked in the U.S. but have not been able to find one.
4 cups dashi (p. 9), or chicken stock (p. 10)
2 tablespoons shiro (white) or aka (red) miso
1 scallion, thinly sliced
1. Heat the dashi. Add a tablespoon or two to the soybean paste to liquify it and remove lumps before stirring it into the soup.
2. Cook until it comes to a simmer but do not allow it to boil. Garnish with chopped scallions and serve hot.
| Yield: 4 servings | Cooking time: 5 minutes |
| Calories per serving: 130 | Total fat: 1 g |
| Saturated fat: — g | Polyunsaturated fat: — g |
| Cholesterol: 0 mg | Sodium: 450 mg |
Variation:
1. Four ounces of soybean curd (tofu), cut into bite-sized cubes, may be simmered in the soup for 1 to 2 minutes.
2. Shrimps, clams, or scallops may be simmered briefly in the soup.
3. Soak ½ ounce wakame (dried seaweed) in water for 15 minutes. Rinse in running cold water for 3 minutes to rid it of salt. Discard the tough center sections and cut into small pieces. Simmer in the soup for 1 minute.
* An approximate sodium count was arrived at by averaging four kinds of miso listed in the Standard Tables of Food Composition in Japan, Fourth Revised Edition, 1982, Resources Council, Science and Technology Agency, Government of Japan. Per teaspoon: 58 calories; 284 mg sodium; 0.4 mg total fat. No data was given for individual fats. A dash (—) indicates data not available.
Steamed Foods
(Mushimono)
Cold Saké-Steamed Chicken
(Tori no Sakamushi)
This is an especially good dish for summer weather that is easy to prepare. It also makes an excellent hors d'oeuvre. Serve it with this simple soy-and-lemon sauce, or, if you have more time, with the sesame dipping sauce given on pages 59-60.
2 whole chicken breasts, boned but with skin left on
4 tablespoons saké
1 teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Powdered sansho (Japanese pepper), or freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring water in the bottom of a steamer (pp. xxxii-xxxiii) to a boil and place the chicken, skin side up, on a heat-proof dish. Score the skin and pour the saké over the chicken. Steam for 20 minutes.
2. When cool, remove and discard the skin and cut the meat into thin slices. Sprinkle with Japanese pepper.
3. Mix soy sauce, lemon juice, and 3-4 tablespoons broth from the steaming and pour over the chicken pieces after you slice them.
| Yield: 4 servings, or about 20 appetizers | Cooking time: 20 minutes |
| Calories per serving: 215 | Total fat: 6 g |
| Saturated fat: 2 g | Polyunsaturated fat: 2 g |
| Cholesterol: 90 mg | Sodium: 115 mg |
Clams Steamed in Saké
(Hamaguri no Sakamushi)
These clams make an elegant appetizer.
12 shucked littleneck clams on open half-shells
¼ cup saké
6 thin slices of lemon cut in half
1. Bring the water in the bottom of a steamer (pp. xxxii-xxxiii) to a boil.
2. Arrange clams in open half shells on a heat proof dish. Pour ½ teaspoon saké on each clam and steam 2 or 3 minutes.
3. Remove and garnish each shell with a lemon slice.
Note: If desired, clams may be served with a dipping sauce made with 1 teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce and 2 tablespoons lemon juice. The soy sauce will add 43 mg of sodium to each serving.
| Yield: 4 servings, or 12 appetizers | Cooking time: 3 minutes |
| Calories per serving: 65 | Total fat: 0.5 g |
| Saturated fat: Trace | Polyunsaturated fat: Trace |
| Cholesterol: 20 mg | Sodium: 60 mg |
Shrimp and Chicken Custard
(Chowan Mushi)
This savory dish may be served either as a soup course or as a side dish. Morsels of chicken, shrimp, and mushrooms lie beneath an intriguingly flavored unsweetened custard. Any small heat-proof cup, preferably of ceramic glaze, will do if you don't have the special Japanese lidded china cups that are made for this purpose. Feel free to use other meats and vegetables that would harmonize both visually and gastronomically with custard, such as tender french-cut beans and thinly sliced carrots. Keep in mind that some may have to be parboiled or blanched first. Serve the custard hot on cold days and chilled in summer weather. Normally 4 whole eggs are used to make 4 servings. However, since a single egg yolk contains about 274 mg of cholesterol, only 2 yolks and 4 whites are used in this recipe. If further reduction is desired, use 1 yolk and 5 whites. However, a very stiff custard will result.
4 small shrimps, shelled and deveined
4 ounces boneds, uncooked chicken breast, all skin and fat removed, cut into ¼ inch cubes
8-12 thin slices of mushrooms
12 ginkgo nuts (ginnan), shelled and peeled, or 8 snow peas
Marinade:
1 tablespoon saké
¼ teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce
A dash of seven-spice mixture (shichimi togarashi)
Custard:
2 whole eggs
2 egg whites
2¾ cups cold chicken stock (p. 10), or Ichiban Dashi (p. 9), if preferred
1/8 teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce
1 tablespoon mirin
2-4 teaspoons fresh ginger root, grated
Trefoil, watercress, or flat parsley sprigs
1. Combine the saké, soy sauce, and a generous sprinkling of seven-spice mixture, and marinate shrimp and chicken for a few minutes. Drain and discard marinade.
2. Beat the eggs. Stir in the chicken stock, soy sauce, and mirin. Strain the mixture to remove air bubbles (optional).
3. Place a shrimp, some chicken cubes, mushroom slices, and ginkgo nuts or snow peas in each of 4 bowls.
4. Pour the egg mixture on top. Put a bit of ginger root on top and cover with aluminum foil.
5. Bring water in the bottom of a steamer (pp. xxxii-xxxiii) to a boil. Place cups of custard on a heat-proof plate and cook over low heat 10-15 minutes. To test for doneness insert a knife or toothpick near the edge (not the center) of the cup. If the blade comes out clean remove from the heat. There is enough stored heat in the cups to complete the cooking process. Overcooking and high heat produce a tough, dry custard. Alternatively, the custard may be baked. Set the covered bowls in a 2-inch deep baking pan. Fill the pan with 1½ inches of hot water. Bake for about 30 minutes in a 325° F oven. Test for doneness.
| Yield: 4 servings | Cooking time: 15 minutes |
| Calories per serving: 155 | Total fat: 4.5 g |
| Saturated fat: 1.5 g | Polyunsaturated fat: 1 |
| Cholesterol: 175 mg | Sodium: 140 mg |
Turnip Clouds
(Kabura Mushi)
This is a subtly seasoned dish that is quick and easy to prepare. Chicken breast or fish fillets and shrimps are steamed with a topping of beaten egg white and grated turnips, then garnished with a very tangy green horseradish.
12 ounces chicken breast meat, boned, all fat and skin removed, cut into 1-inch pieces, or firm fish fillets
4 shrimps, shelled and deveined
4 small mushrooms, finely chopped
1-2 white turnips, peeled and finely grated
1 egg white
Sauce:
½ cup dashi (p. 9), or chicken stock (p. 10)
½ teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce
1 teaspoon saké
½ teaspoon cornstarch, mixed with 1 tablespoon cold water
Garnish:
1 tablespoon wasabi (green horseradish) powder mixed to a paste with a few drops of cold water
Parsley sprigs
1. Bring water in bottom of a steamer (pp. xxxii-xxxiii) to a boil.
2. In the bottom of each of 4 small heat-proof bowls, place chicken pieces or fish, with a shrimp on top.
3. Place grated turnip in a towel and squeeze out moisture.
4. Beat egg white to the soft peak (not dry) stage. Fold grated turnip (about ¾ cup) gently into beaten egg white. Divide among the 4 bowls, carefully covering chicken and shrimp. Steam 7-10 minutes.
5. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, bring the stock to a boil. Reduce heat to low and add soy sauce and saké. Stir in the cornstarch mixture and simmer until sauce thickens slightly and clears. Spoon a little sauce over the chicken and garnish with a round dollop of wasabi paste and a parsley spring. Serve hot.
| Yield: 4 servings | Cooking time: 10 minutes |
| Calories per serving: 195 | Total fat: 4.5 g |
| Saturated fat: 1.5 g | Polyunsaturated fat: 1 g |
| Cholesterol: 90 mg | Sodium: 125 mg |
Steamed Fish with Soybean Curd
(Sakana no Sakamushi)
8 ounces white meat fish, with skin left on, cut into 8 pieces
4 ounces soybean curd (tofu) cut into 1-inch cubes
¼ cup saké
4 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked in warm water for 30 minutes, then thinly sliced, or fresh mushrooms
4 thin slices lemon
Garnish:
4 trefoil (mitsuba), watercress, or parsley sprigs
4 lemon wedges
1. Bring water in bottom of a steamer (pp. xxxii-xxxiii) to a boil.
2. Cut fish, bean curd, and mushrooms.
3. In each of separate heat-proof bowls arrange 2 pieces of fish, 2 cubes of bean curd, and sliced mushrooms. Douse each with 1 tablespoon of saké. Top with lemon slice.
4. Cover with lid or foil and steam 8-10 minutes. Garnish with trefoil and lemon slice. Serve with ponzu (p. 58) or chirizu (p. 57) dipping sauces.
| Yield: 4 servings | Cooking time: 10 minutes |
| Nutrient analysis does not include dipping sauce. | |
| Calories per serving: 90 | Total fat: 3 g |
| Saturated fat: 1 g | Polyunsaturated fat: 1 g |
| Cholesterol: 30 mg | Sodium: 41 mg |
Vinegared Salads
and Mixed Dressed Foods
(Sunomono and Aemono)
Both of these categories accompany main dishes. Vegetables may be used alone or mixed with fish or poultry. Salt is usually added to vegetables to extract as much moisture as possible before dressing them. For the purposes of this book I have eliminated this step. A compromise solution, if you wish to salt them, is to rinse them in cold running water for 3 minutes after salting to remove as much of it as possible. Squeeze and drain on an absorbent towel before mixing with the dressing. Keep in mind that 1 teaspoon of salt contains about 2,000 mg of sodium.
Vinegared Cucumbers
(Kyuri no Sunomono)
2 Japanese cucumbers, or 1 medium cucumber
¼ cup rice vinegar
¼ teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon white sesame seeds
1. Peel cucumber lengthwise, leaving some green skin in 1/4-inch widths for color. Remove seeds and slice thinly. Wrap in a towel or paper towels for a few minutes to drain off the moisture.
2. Mix vinegar, soy sauce, and sugar. Pour over cucumbers, toss, and divide among 4 small bowls.
3. In a hot dry skillet, toast sesame seeds briefly and sprinkle over cucumbers.
| Yield: 4 servings | Preparation time: 10 minutes |
| Calories per serving: 30 | Total fat: 1.5 g |
| Saturated fat: 0.5 g | Polyunsaturated fat: 0.5 g |
| Cholesterol: 0 mg | Sodium: 15 mg |
Red-and-White Carrot and Radish Salad
(Kohaku Namasu)
Red and white are the colors of joyous occasions such as weddings and New Year celebrations.
2 cups Japanese white radish (daikon), peeled and grated
1 carrot, peeled and grated
½ recipe amazu (sweet-and-sour dressing; see p. 58)
1. Place grated vegetables in separate bowls. Gently turn and squeeze with hands to extract water. Squeeze and drain on an absorbent towel. Please read the introductory paragraph to sunomono on page 50 about salting vegetables to extract moisture.
2. Combine the vegetables in one bowl and pour amazu on top.: Mix well and marinate at least 30 minutes. Flavor will be stronger (too strong for my taste) if allowed to marinate longer.
3. Drain and serve in small quantities on individual dishes.
| Yield: 6-8 servings | Preparation time: 10 minutes |
| Nutrient analysis includes amazu. | |
| Calories per serving: 35 | Total fat: 0 g |
| Saturated fat: 0 g | Polyunsaturated fat: 0 g |
| Cholesterol: 0 mg | Sodium: 15 mg |
Cucumber Stuffed with Crabmeat
(Kani Kyuri Ikomi)
This attractive tidbit makes a tempting appetizer as well as a refreshing side dish. Lobster or shrimp may be used in place of crab.
2-inch piece fresh ginger root
2 ounces cooked flaked crabmeat
1 Japanese cucumber (12 inches long) or 2 thin cucumbers
½ recipe sanbaizu (p. 59)
½ cup watercress or flat-leafed parsley, blanched in boiling water for 10 seconds
1. Mince ginger root. Extract 2 teaspoons juice. Discard pulp.
2. Combine ginger-root juice with crab flakes and set aside.
3. Wash and trim ends of cucumber. Peel it lengthwise leaving some green skin in Vi-inch widths for color. Cut cucumbers in half crosswise into 2 short cylinders. With a small spoon or knife remove all pulp and seeds from center to make a hollow for stuffing.
4. Slit one side of cucumber. Hold the slit cucumber open with one hand and using chopsticks or a small spoon, fill the hollowed shell down its length, first with crabmeat, and then stuff greens next to it.
5. Cut filled cucumbers into Vz-inch slices. As a side dish, place 4 slices on each of 6 small plates. Spoon sanbaizu over each serving.
6. As an hors d'oeuvre, arrange slices on a platter. Sprinkle sanbaizu over all and garnish with green leaves artistically placed.
| Yield: 6 servings, or 24 appetizers | Preparation time: 10 minutes |
| Nutrient analysis includes sanbaizu. | |
| Calories per serving: 30 | Total fat: 0.5 g |
| Saturated fat: Trace | Polyunsaturated fat: Trace |
| Cholesterol: 10 mg | Sodium: 55 g |
Spinach with Sesame-Seed Dressing
(Horenso no Hitashi)
This is a delicious way to prepare spinach, though cauliflower, broccoli, or any green vegetable for that matter will be enhanced by this sesame-seed dressing. The traditional recipe contains a lot more soy sauce and hence has a stronger flavor, but this is very good, too. Busy cooks may simplify this recipe by omitting the grinding of the sesame seeds (step 3): in that case, you should combine the sauce ingredients, mix into the spinach, and then sprinkle all the toasted sesame seeds on top of each serving.
1 pound spinach (6 cups), washed and trimmed
¼ cup black or white sesame seeds
¼ cup dashi (p. 9), or unsalted chicken stock (p. 10)
1 teaspoon mirin, or 1 teaspoon saké and less than 1/8 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce
1-2 tablespoons rice vinegar or mild white vinegar
1. Bring a large pot of water to the boil. Add the spinach and cook until the leaves are barely wilted. Drain and cool immediately under cold water to stop the cooking process. Drain thoroughly and chop into 1-inch lengths.
2. In a heated skillet, lightly toast the sesame seeds over moderate heat. Shake the pan to avoid scorching. Reserve a few for garnish.
3. Pound the remaining toasted seeds to a paste in a mortar (suribachi) or blender. The grinding of the sesame seeds releases the oil and converts the seeds into a paste. If you use a blender, you may need to add a bit of oil to keep the mass moving.
4. Combine remaining ingredients in a bowl with the sesame paste. Toss spinach with sauce until leaves are thoroughly coated. Divide among 4 small bowls. Garnish with reserved sesame seeds. Serve at room temperature.
| Yield: 4 servings | Cooking time: 10 minutes |
| Calories per serving: 85 | Total fat: 4.5 g |
| Saturated fat: 1 g | Polyunsaturated fat: 2 g |
| Cholesterol: 0 mg | Sodium: 60 mg |
Variation: Eggplant is very tasty in sesame dressing. If you can find Japanese eggplants, which are small and thin with tender skins, do not peel them. The large American variety is coarser and needs to be peeled. Leave a strip of skin here and there for color if you wish. To prepare the eggplants, cut them into 1-inch cubes and boil them for 1 or 2 minutes or until just tender. Then toss them in the sesame dressing.
Foods Simmered in Seasoned Liquids
(Nimono)
Saké-Simmered Fish
(Sakana no Nitsuke)
Any fish is suitable for simmering in this saké-based sauce, including shrimp and scallops. Cut a large fish in slices or use very thick fillets.
1 whole fish (about 2 pounds), cleaned, scaled, and scored, or 1½ pounds thick fillets cut into 6 pieces
2 teaspoons low-sodium soy sauce
Seven-spice mixture (shichimi togarashi)
Nitsuke sauce:
1/3 cup saké
1 tablespoon sugar, dissolved in ¼ cup stock or water
¼ cup chicken stock (p. 10), or water
2 tablespoons fresh ginger root, finely minced
Garnish:
2 scallions, both white and green part, cut into thin circles
1 teaspoon fresh ginger root, finely grated
Lemon slices and parsley sprigs
1. Combine the saké, sugar mixture, chicken stock, and ginger in a pan large enough to hold the fish. Bring to a boil.
2. Lay the fish on the boiling sauce and turn heat down to low. Set a small pot lid inside directly on top of the fish to keep it from falling apart. (In Japan this inner lid, called otoshibuta, is made of wood.) Then cover the pot with its own lid.
3. Simmer for 5 minutes, or until fish is just done.
4. Transfer to a plate. Add soy sauce and a generous sprinkling of seven-spice mixture to the sauce in the pan and cook 1-2 minutes. Pour over fish and serve either hot or at room temperature. If desired, cut fish into 6 pieces and place a piece in each of 6 bowls. Arrange garnishes decoratively.
Variation:
1. Two minutes before fish is done, add grated Japanese white radish (daikon) over fish and top with thinly sliced green scallions. Steam 1 minute more and serve.
2. After removing fish from saucepan, place six 1-ounce pieces of soybean curd in pan and cook in remaining sauce until heated through. Turn a few times to coat with the sauce. Place a cube of soybean curd in each bowl with the fish.
3. After fish is removed, any vegetable may be simmered briefly in remaining sauce and added to bowls with fish.
| Yield: 6 servings | Cooking time: 15 minutes |
| Calories per serving: 130 | Total fat: 1.5 g |
| Saturated fat: 0.5 g | Polyunsaturated fat: 0.5 g |
| Cholesterol: 60 mg | Sodium: 135 mg |
Simmered Squash
(Kabocha no Nimono)
1 pound Japanese squash (kabocha; often called pumpkin), or acorn or butternut squash, sweet potatoes, or yams
½-¾ cup dashi (p. 9), or unsalted chicken stock (p. 10). Water may be used if stock is not handy.
1½ tablespoons sugar (Not so much sugar is necessary if using sweet potatoes or yams.)
1 teaspoon mirin, or saké (if you prefer less sugar)
½ teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce
Parsley for garnish
1. Cut squash into 1 ½-inch pieces. Leave some skin on for color, or peel completely if skin is tough.
2. In a medium saucepan, combine dashi, sugar, and mirin. Add squash and stir to coat with sauce. Cover and simmer over low heat 8-12 minutes or until tender.
3. Stir in soy sauce. If needed, add more liquid. However, mixture should be fairly dry, not soupy, when done. Serve in 4 individual bowls and garnish with parsley.
| Yield: 4 servings | Cooking time: 12 minutes |
| Calories per serving: 90 | Total fat: 0.5 mg |
| Saturated fat: Trace | Polyunsaturated fat: Trace |
| Cholesterol: 0 mg | Sodium: 25 mg |
Broiled and Pan-Fried Foods
(Yakimono)
Broiled Fish with Sesame Seeds
(Sakana no Gomayaki)
Here is a very simple but elegant way to prepare fish. Grilled fillets dipped in egg white and toasted sesame seeds are served with a delicious lemony sauce.
¼ cup white sesame seeds (goma)
1 pound firm fish fillets, cut into 1-inch slices
1 egg white, lightly beaten
2 teaspoons safflower oil
Watercress, trefoil (mitsuba), or parsley for garnish
Ponzu dipping sauce (p. 58)
1. Preheat broiler
2. In a preheated small skillet, toast the sesame seeds, using no oil, very lightly. Do not brown. Lift and shake pan frequently to avoid scorching.
3. In a lightly oiled baking dish, place the cut fillets skin side down and broil 2 minutes. Turn and broil 2 more minutes or until barely done.
4. Remove fish from baking pan and dip flesh side only into beaten egg white, then into toasted sesame seeds.
5. Return to pan and broil until sesame seeds are a golden brown.
6. Place in 4 individual bowls garnished with a sprig of watercress. Serve with small bowls of ponzu set at each diner's place.
| Yield: 4 servings | Cooking time: 10 minutes |
| Nutrient count does not include dipping sauce. | |
| Calories per serving: 185 | Total fat: 6 g |
| Saturated fat: 1 g | Polyunsaturated fat: 4 g |
| Cholesterol: 60 mg | Sodium: 90 mg |
Skewered Chicken and Vegetables
(Yakitori)
Yakitori is a popular snack in Japan as well as a favorite appetizer. But it also makes an excellent meal. If I had to choose one dish that I would be happy to dine on most frequently, this would be it. It is perfect for an outdoor cookout on a hot summer day or broiled indoors at any time. Chicken livers are often grilled with the chicken, but I have left them out because of their high cholesterol count (Three ounces of liver contains 372 mg of cholesterol as compared to about 75 in 3 ounces of chicken without skin and fat.) The liver is said to be one of the animal's chief production sites for cholesterol, but if you are not on a strict low-cholesterol diet, one or two chicken livers can be included, not only for variety but also for their very high nutritional content of vitamins and iron.
36-40 bamboo skewers at least 8 inches long
11½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken, all fat removed, cut into 1-inch cubes
12 scallions cut into 2-inch lengths; use white part with some of the green
6 small Japanese eggplants, about 4-5 inches long
18 cherry tomatoes
18 whole mushrooms
2 tablespoons safflower oil for basting
Powdered sansho (Japanese pepper), or black pepper
Seven-spice mixture (shichimi togarashi)
Lemon wedges
4 green peppers, cut into 1-inch squares
Basting sauce:
½ cup saké
½ cup mirin
1 tablespoon sugar
4 teaspoons low-sodium soy sauce
To prepare:
1. Soak bamboo skewers in water for at least an hour. Preheat broiler or start charcoal fire.
2. On each of 18 skewers, string 4 or 5 pieces of chicken alternated with 1-inch lengths of scallion.
3. To cook the eggplants, prick them in 3 or 4 places with a fork or a toothpick. Skewer them whole. Hold 2 skewers in a V position and insert them sideways into each eggplant. This will allow you to hold the eggplant securely in one hand.
4. String on skewers, in any order you wish, green pepper squares, tomatoes, and whole mushrooms.
To cook:
1. Start cooking eggplant first. Brush with oil and broil about 4-5 inches from fire until skin shrivels and eggplants get soft. This will take 15-20 minutes.
2. Using a small pastry brush, baste chicken with sauce and cook about 3 inches from heat for 5-8 minutes, basting and turning several times until the chicken is tender and brown. Do not overcook.
3. Brush the skewers of vegetables with oil and broil very briefly or just enough to lightly brown them and heat them through. If desired, you may brush them with the marinade.
4. Sprinkle sansho or seven-spice mixture to taste. Serve yakitori with boiled rice (p. 48) and vinegared cucumbers (p. 21).
| Yield: 6 servings, or 36 appetizers | Cooking time: About 20 minutes |
| Calories per serving: 420 | Total fat: 12 g |
| Saturated fat: 2.2 g | Polyunsaturated fat: 5.3 g |
| Cholesterol: 100 mg | Sodium: 220 mg |
Variation: Chunks of beef or fish, or whole shrimps may also be cooked in this way.
Soybean Curd with Miso Topping
(Tofu no Dengaku)
The soybean curd (tofu) in this recipe is traditionally grilled on skewers over an open fire and the white miso topping,is colored with ground green sansho leaves. But since it is fragile and difficult for the novice to handle, pan broiling or frying is suggested in this highly adapted recipe.
Remember that miso is high in sodium—approximately 284 mg in 1 teaspoon. Normally, this recipe would be prepared with as much as Vz cup of miso, which would add up to 6,816 mg of sodium (24 teaspoons x 284 mg), or 1,704 mg per serving. That's nearly as much sodium as a person should have in a single day. For more on miso, see the recipe for Clear Soup with Soybean Paste on pages 13-14.
