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Introduction to Atwell Mill and Mineral King

One glimpse of the glacier-carved East Fork Kaweah River Canyon, with its alpine slopes rimmed by striking peaks, will convince onlookers of Mineral King’s picturesque riches. Ironically, these scenic virtues had less to do with the area’s eventual inclusion into Sequoia National Park than did its lack of mineral resources.

Prompted by the well-publicized mining booms in other areas of California and Nevada, hopeful miners poured into Mineral King (originally named Buelah) in the late 1880s, searching for the next mother lode. Miners extracted just enough ore to keep hopes alive, but it was never enough to make such a remote location profitable. The southern Sierra never yielded a significant strike of either gold or silver and was determined to be a bust by the turn of the century. The powerful San Francisco earthquake of 1906 triggered massive avalanches that leveled structures in Mineral King, serving as an exclamation point to the region’s commercial woes.

The lumber to rebuild Mineral King after the avalanches had to come from somewhere, and so a sawmill was erected in 1879 at nearby Atwell Mill. A flume was also constructed between Oak Grove and Hammond to produce hydroelectricity. Unfortunately, a number of mighty sequoias were felled in the process, stumps of which are still visible in the vicinity of the mill. The mill ultimately suffered the same fate as the mines, as the cost of transporting lumber to viable markets in the San Joaquin Valley proved to be too expensive.

Another commercial interest invaded Mineral King in the early 1900s, when the Mt. Whitney Power Company built four rock-and-mortar dams at Crystal, Eagle, and Monarch Lakes. The dams were erected to regulate the flow of water into the aforementioned flume to maximize power generation at the company’s hydroelectric plant in Hammond. Unlike the mines and mill, the dams and power plant remain in operation, currently owned by Southern California Edison.

Once mining and timber went by the wayside, the remaining inhabitants of Mineral King turned to the prospect of a resort community to maintain an existence in their beloved mountains. Unfortunately for the residents, the area failed to achieve much fame as a resort community, turning into a sleepy little burg after World War II.

The area’s customarily mild winters and long-lasting snowpack prompted the Tulare County Board of Supervisors to sponsor a snow survey in 1947, which recommended that the board develop Mineral King as a winter sports destination. In 1949, the board solicited proposals from potential developers, but progress stalled until 1965, when they selected Disney Enterprises of Burbank as the contractor. Disney had ambitions to turn Mineral King into the foremost ski destination in the world, with a resort and amenities catering to more than 10,000 skiers per day. With eager cooperation from the Forest Service, Disney proceeded with their ambitious plans.

Plans for the megaresort ran headlong into the budding environmental movement of the 1970s. Protracted legal battles, negative public opinion, the excessive costs of constructing an all-weather road, and increased awareness of the area’s avalanche potential combined to create forces too extreme for Disney to overcome. In 1978, President Jimmy Carter signed a bill incorporating the majestic Mineral King area into Sequoia National Park. Today, the park manages the area with the same sleepy atmosphere that prevailed much of the 20th century.

ACCESS: This area is open from late May until November 1. Between November and May, weather permitting, the road is open for the first 16.5 miles to a locked gate, 2.5 miles before Atwell Mill Campground. Access to Atwell Mill, Silver City, and Mineral King is via Mineral King Road, a sometimes steep, always narrow, often winding, partially dirt road that proceeds up the canyon of East Fork Kaweah River. Drivers must be constantly on alert for oncoming traffic, particularly during weekends. Plan to drive about an hour and a quarter to cover the 25-mile, 6,700-foot climb from Three Rivers to trailheads in Mineral King. Gas is not available beyond Three Rivers.

Mineral King as seen from the Sawtooth Pass Trail (Trip 13)

AMENITIES: The tourist-based community of Three Rivers, 37 miles east of Visalia and immediately west of the park entrance, offers a modicum of services, including motels, restaurants, gas stations, and stores.

The family-run Silver City Resort is usually open from late May into October, providing comfortable lodging in chalets and cabins, a limited selection of supplies (no ice or alcohol), dining, public showers, and ranger-led campfire talks on Thursday evenings. Many consider their fresh-baked pies to be the resort’s highlight. Call (559) 561-3223 in summer, or (805) 528-2730 off-season for more information, or visit their website at www.silvercityresort.com.

RANGER STATION: The rustic Mineral King Ranger Station, usually staffed from late May to late September, is located 22 miles from the junction of Highway 198 in Three Rivers. Backpackers can get wilderness permits during normal business hours (with reduced hours after Labor Day weekend). A limited selection of books and maps are available for purchase, and bear canisters can be rented. Call (559) 565-3768 for more information.

GOOD TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Backpackers leaving vehicles overnight at trailheads in Mineral King should place all food and scented items in the storage shed directly opposite the ranger station because bear boxes are not available at the Tar Gap, Eagle-Mosquito, or Sawtooth-Monarch Trailheads.

Some of the plentiful marmots in Mineral King have developed a peculiar hankering for munching on car parts, such as radiator hoses, fan belts, and brake lines. Fortunately, this proclivity seems to be limited to early in the season (May and June), and by July these rodents turn to more nutritious fare. Check with rangers about current conditions. If your trip coincides with car-munching season, you may want to encircle your vehicle with chicken wire.

If you plan to camp at either Atwell Mill or Cold Springs Campgrounds, check the board at the Mineral King and Highway 198 junction in Three Rivers or at the Lookout Point Entrance Station for availability. Doing so could save you from a fruitless, time-consuming drive if the campgrounds are full.