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Breadmaking relies primarily on one precious ingredient, namely flour, and therefore, most often, on wheat, of which there are different varieties. Generally, a grain is said to be a bread- quality grain if it contains gluten. The main bread-quality grains, aside from hard wheat, are soft wheat, spelt, and rye. Hard-wheat flour, which is the flour most often used for making bread, is made up primarily of carbohydrates (starches and others), proteins (gluten), fat, water, vitamins, minerals, and enzymes.

On their way from the mill to our plates, the wheat grains undergo several different procedures in order to produce the flour that we know and eat. Bread-quality wheat has positive properties and positive capacities: it can be hydrated, the dough can be kneaded and fermented, and so on.

Wheat flour, once it has been hydrated, forms a mesh network that can trap the gases that result during fermentation. This network is a result of the composition of the flour, more specifically, of the two insoluble proteins that it contains: gliadin and, in smaller quantities, glutenin. These two proteins enter into the composition of gluten. Gliadin gives the dough the ability to stretch, whereas glutenin gives it elasticity and resilience (the ability to resist the stretching). These properties are related to the information about the flour's baking strength that is sometimes detailed on the packaging. Thus, the more gluten the flour contains, the more elastic and stretchable it will be, which influences its gas retention properties, which in turn affect the volume of the bread and the structure of the crumb.

TESTING THE FLOUR

It is important to remember that different kinds of flour, depending on their brand (even if they are of the same “T type”), contain different proportions of protein. The capacity to absorb liquid varies from one kind of flour to another and thus will involve modifications in recipes. Every kind of flour is unique and has its own specific absorption capacity. When you want to get started and you are not sure about the characteristics of the product you are using, start by slightly reducing the amount of water you use and then get used to handling the dough that you make with this flour, observing it and touching it. This is still the very best way to learn about it.

During the milling process, the bran and the germ of the wheat are mostly removed; the more thoroughly that is done, the lighter the appearance of the flour. White flour is made up mainly of the kernel of the wheat grain and part of the germ. The germ, which is rich in fat, speeds up the rancidification of the flour; this is particularly the case for stone-ground flours, in which the germ is retained.

Sometimes, the ash content of the flour will be indicated on the packaging, which corresponds to the amount of mineral content retained in the flour. This number, determined by the calcination of a flour sample, is strictly regulated. In France, for example, wheat flours are classified according to their ash content.

Throughout the book I refer to French flour designations along with the closest American equivalent flours. See below for a chart comparing both for easy reference:

In addition to wheat flour, other kinds of flour can also be used, most often in combination with wheat to compensate for their lack of gluten; one of these is rye flour, which I use regularly, both for making bread and for maintaining my starter. If you want to choose two main kinds of flour for your start on the wild yeast adventure, I recommend those two.

Rye flour is also available in various varieties: light, medium, and dark. It is rich in minerals, and while it is poor in gluten, it has a high absorption capacity. Grayish in color, it has a characteristically malty flavor. I usually buy it in organic grocery stores or directly from flour mills.

In this book, you will find recipes featuring a variety of kinds of flour, such as spelt flour, which is rich in fat and minerals and is another good bread-quality flour with a slightly nutty taste you will enjoy; Kamut^® flour, which is produced from Khorasan wheat, grown exclusively in organic agriculture, and is higher in protein than soft wheat; and many more. The idea here is to encourage you to test new combinations by playing with the texture, appearance, and aroma of the bread.

PROPER STORAGE OF FLOUR

It is important to keep your flour in a cool, dry spot. This is even more the case for so-called milled flours, which are high in germ content and therefore more fragile.

Do not give in to the temptation to buy 25-kilogram bags of flour, which are meant for professionals. Those quantities are packaged to meet the needs of professional bakers, while a dedicated hobby baker, using smaller amounts, is going to have to store what is left over and will eventually notice that, as the weeks and months go by, the dough behaves differently because the flour has deteriorated over time. Thus, it is a better choice to buy your flour in small packages or, if you are making bread every day, in 5- to 10-kilogram bags at the most. This will avoid waste and unpleasant surprises!