Читать книгу VI Settler's Handbook - Mr. Cheyenne Harty - Страница 20

Our island tour continues with St. Croix’s other major town, Frederiksted, also known as “Freedom City.” If you should arrive by cruise ship, you will dock at the new pier in Frederiksted where much of the town has been named an historic area. This turn-of-the-century town charms visitors with wide tree-shaded streets, a lovely waterfront, and several blocks of arcaded sidewalks. As a National Historic District, the city features such structures as the Old Customs House, the Fleming Building constructed of bricks from destroyed sugar mill chimneys, St. Paul’s Anglican Church, dating from 1812, and the restored Fort Frederik located just to the left of the pier as you disembark. Built in the mid 1700s, the Fort has been in continuous use for military and other government purposes. The Fort is now a venue for cultural events as well as a Museum specializing in the history and architecture of Frederiksted, with rotating exhibits of local artists and craftspeople. Their open hours are: 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Monday through Friday. Closed holidays. For further information call: 772-2021. Wherever you drive, you will find remnants of sugar mills in the landscape of the island. At the height of the plantation era, in the 1700s, St.Croix had 114 wind mills,14 ox-mills and was divided into 275 plantations, or estates. The island was once considered the premier sugar-producing area and the “bread basket” of the Caribbean. Most areas still carry the plantation or estate names that reflect the owner’s thinking. Check a map, or, on your drive through the island, look for names like: Good Hope, Judith’s Fancy, Lower and Upper Love, Barren Spot, Humbug, or William’s Delight.

While St. Croix offers many variations in topography, the East End with Point Udall, the easternmost point of land in the United States, offers breath-taking sea vistas, gentle hills dotted with cactus and an unobstructed view of Buck Island, just six miles away. To get to Point Udall, follow Route 82 past Cramer Park, past the National Radio Astronomy Observatory, and east along a newly paved road to the very tip, where you will find a monument at this point. As you stare out on the vast ocean, remember that the next major piece of land is Africa!

The Buck Island Reef National Monument features snorkeling, swimming, beautiful waters, sandy beaches, good hiking, and is a frequent stop— not only for the day-charter boats, but also the locals on weekends. Note that signs on occasion may be posted closing some of the walking trails for nesting turtles and wild bird or endangered animal protection. Most boats stop first at the sheltered sandy beach along the island’s west shore, where you can practice snorkeling.

A few minutes sail to the east end puts you at the famed underwater trail. Put your mask, fins and snorkel on, then splash into a dream world of beautiful coral and fish. Also note that there are only a few moorings placed at this end and you cannot drop anchor any other place here. These moorings were strategically placed to protect the coral and the underwater park. Only a few charter boats have their license to moor in this vicinity. If you can’t swim, guides can tow you with a float. If you don’t want to get wet, take a glass-bottomed boat for a glimpse of the island’s superb marine life.The coral reef, lying just under the surface of the water, is a great mass of elkhorn coral extending like a horseshoe around the eastern side of the island. Within its protection are thousands of hard and soft coral formations in an astonishing range of sizes, shapes and colors identified by underwater markers and an equally dazzling array of fish. All this is at a depth of only about 13 ft.

There is no fishing or ”take” whatsoever inside the park boundaries which extends 3 miles out from the coast of Buck Island. Possession of firearms, fishing, hunting gear, and spear guns are prohibited. You must stay off the fragile coral, and while on the shores and beaches, you must not collect any souvenirs. This is a nationally protected island on land and underwater.Also, before anchoring anywhere along the shores of St. Croix, look for mooring balls, put there for boats to tie up to and not drop their own anchor. Do not mistake fishermen’s markers for fish pots for mooring balls.

St. Croix’s mid-island area has many special sites to visit. On Queen Mary Highway, Route 70 on the map, look for the St. George Village Botanical Garden sign, a right turn off Queen Mary when you are heading west. You can spend as little as an hour or as long as a morning wandering around its lush gardens, tropical rain forest and restored village buildings.The Garden is open daily from 9-4 except for Christmas (692-2874).

History comes alive at Whim Plantation Museum (also on Rt. 70) as you walk among the historic 18th century buildings of this former sugar estate. The stately, authentically furnished Greathouse welcomes you with gracious guides waiting to tell you stories of past inhabitants and the reality of plantation life. Managed by the St. Croix Landmarks Society, this 12 acre site features a fully restored windmill, sugar factory ruins, cookhouse, tropical tress and a small sugarcane field. Call 340-772-0598 or visit www.stcroixlandmarks.org for more information.

Nestled in the tranquil, tropical valley of Estate Little LaGrange (on Rt. 76) is Lawaetz Family Museum, a traditional homestead museum. This Danish West Indian house, with its rambling gardens, orchards and authentic furnishings, was the home of the Lawaetz family for more than one hundred years.

Self-guided tours now introduce visitors to the traditions and values of a farming family living and working on St. Croix now transforming to a 21st century farm. Call 220-0466 for information or csa@ridge2reef.org. St. Croix Landmarks Society’s preservation efforts also extend to the Apothecary Hall exhibit, a nineteenth-century Danish colonial pharmacy museum on Queen Cross Street in Christiansted, and the St. Croix Heritage Trail. The nationally recognized Heritage Trail is a 72-mile driving tour that connects St. Croix’s historic sites, attractions and natural areas.Watch for the brown and white sugar mill symbol road signs and visit http://heritagetrails.stcroixlandmarks.org for more information. Take Midland Road, Route 72 on the maps, to Friedensfeld Moravian Church. This intricate structure was prefabricated in Germany and carried to the islands in the mid-1800s. This is just one of the many historic churches on St. Croix.

The territory’s oldest plantation home, Sprat Hall dates back to the 17th century French occupation, but as of press time is not currently availabe for tours. The owner’s daughter Jill, still offers the opportunity to tour Frederiksted’s beaches, historial ruins and rain forrest on horseback. For a historical, pleasure filled horseback ride contact Paul and Jill’s Equestrian Stable at 332-0417.

Cruzan Viril Ltd., located in Estate Diamond, off Queen Mary Highway and left on Route 64, or West Airport Road, is home of the famous Cruzan Rum. The rum factory traces its origin back to 1760, symbolizes longevity in the rum category, and embodies the real “spirit” of a hand-crafted, nurtured product. Produced by three generations of the Nelthropp family, this distillery owes its legacy to hundreds of years of Crucian rum culture. Despite the termination of nearly 200+ sugar cane crushing mills on the island, the distillery has increased production capacity to serve a greater global demand for rum and has adapted its technology to remain current without sacrificing quality. Among the largest rum distilleries in the Caribbean, the Cruzan credo is to produce superior rum, as exemplified by its Estate Collection, which has raised the industry standard. Popular Cruzan products include Cruzan Estate Light and Dark Rums1-year light, two- year dark, and Single Barrel Rum— the world’s only single barrel rum, which has earned the title of “World’s Best Rum” and won double gold at the prestigious San Francisco World Spirit Competition in 2010. The oak-aged Cruzan Rum was also voted best in a blind test conducted by The Washingtonian Magazine.

While on your tour along the Melvin Evans Highway you will see the huge Captain Morgan Distillery previously mentioned in Chapter 1.

Be sure to visit the west side of Salt River on the north shore on Rte. 80, just off of Route 75. It is here that Christopher Columbus and his fleet skirmished with Carib Indians on November 14, 1493. The Salt River Park also has the largest remaining mangrove forest left in the territory. The 1,015-acre Salt River Bay National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve is jointly managed by the National Park Service and the USVI Government. Within the Salt River Park, ownership is divided such that NPS has 212 acres and the V.I. Government has 653 acres.

Guided kayak tours can be accessed through Salt River Marina’s office, as can diving the east and west Salt River Canyon Walls with Anchor Dive Shop at Salt River. There are bioluminescence (glow in the dark microorganisms) to be seen at the Salt River and Altona Lagoon. Guided ecological tours of the Salt River Mangrove shore and other breathtaking spots are available. Be sure to call Crucian Heritage and Nature Tourism (CHANT).

Golf buffs will love the world-class Carambola Golf and Tennis Club, located just off Route 69 and east of the Rain Forest. An outstanding course, designed by Robert Trent Jones, Senior, Carambola twists around a beautiful valley. The Buccaneer Hotel (18 holes), and the Reef (9 holes), offer challenging courses for their guests and the general public. For a spectacular view of the island, take Route 58 just outside of Frederiksted, the Creque Dam Road, and wind between the mountain tops and through the Rain Forest. Because the roads go up hill and down dale, drive them only in the daylight, and with care, in a 4-wheel drive vehicle. The Mahogany Road, or Route 76, near Frederiksted, is another beautiful, peaceful drive through the lush Rain Forest.