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THE CHINESE CUISINE

TABLE SETTING AND ENTERTAINMENT. Although there is no objection to using Western-style tableware for the serving of Chinese food, the atmosphere of a Chinese dinner is naturally enhanced by the use of typical Chinese dishes and utensils. For this reason, beautifully colored, though not necessarily expensive, porcelain and china are frequently used.

Each set consists of a bowl for rice, a bowl for soup, a dish for the main courses, a small dish for sauce or condiments, a dessert dish, a wine cup, a porcelain soup spoon, and a pair of chopsticks. All the ingredients to be used in Chinese dishes are cut into convenient sizes in the kitchen before serving, so that no carving instruments are required at the table.

It goes without saying that dishes attractively arranged to please the eye serve as a stimulus to the appetite when they are filled with flavorful food. In contrast to the round shape of many Chinese dinner tables, dishes are often placed in a square, with a bowl for soup in the middle.

At the dinner table, the guest of honor is seated opposite the door, with the host or hostess across from him. When the first main dish is served, the host will propose a toast to his guests by saying: "Kan pei," which is the equivalent of the American toast, "Bottoms up." At this time, the guests should express their appreciation to their host for his hospitality.

The dinner begins with three or four cold dishes served separately or on a Lazy Susan type of platter as hors d'amvres. These appetizers are placed on the table before the guests are seated. Four hot fried or sauteed dishes will then be served, and four steamed or braised dishes will follow, along with the rice. If the dinner is informal, it will usually consist of only four dishes and one soup. For an Oriental atmosphere, the soup should be served according to Chinese custom after all of the entrees have been offered, but before the dessert.

RICE AND ITS PREPARATION. Rice is the staple food of southern China. In the northern provinces, wheat and other grains are preferred. The water buffalo is a great asset in the preparation of the land, but the planting, reaping, and threshing are still done by human hands. In southern China, women also work in the fields.

Rice is planted in water paddies. As the plants grow, the water is hidden by the graceful blades of the leaves, and the fields take on a luxuriant appearance. When the wind ripples the fields of rice into waves of green, the sight is a beautiful one to see.

The rice harvest today is as colorful and primitive as it was in ancient days. Harvest time is a happy time among the farmers, and the threshing season is a busy one for them. As we eat rice, we always think of the old Chinese proverb: "Each single grain contains a farmer's hard work."

When you prepare rice, wash it several times until the water runs clear. Use one cup of rice to one and a half cups of water for "dry" rice and one cup of rice to two cups of water for soft rice. Boil the rice over a high flame until most of the water is absorbed. Then turn the flame low and simmer the rice for 20 minutes more, leaving the cover on. One cup of uncooked rice makes two cups of cooked rice. Insufficient water makes the rice hard. Cooked rice will keep for one week in the refrigerator and can be used for fried rice.

TEA. Generally, all classes of people in China drink tea. The habit is one of very long standing. In Peking, especially in the spring, when the wind blows strongly out of Mongolia and the rains seldom come, the human body feels "dry." Enticing street tea stands are scattered everywhere. As a welcome, the Chinese always offer a cup of tea to a guest.

The varieties of Chinese tea are numerous. Wu I Cha, Yang Shen Cha, Lung Cha, Mo Li Cha, and Hsiang Pien are only a few of the well-known green teas. Kee Mun, Liu An, Wu Long, and Pekoe are the better-known black teas. Jasmine tea, with its delightful scent, is also quite popular.

To prepare tea, put one teaspoonful of tea leaves into a Chinese teacup. Pour boiling water over the tea leaves and replace the lid. In three minutes the tasty tea will be ready. Partially remove the lid and drink through the opening. The lid will keep the tea leaves inside. Sugar and milk are never used. Instead of brewing the tea in individual cups, you may use a teapot.

WINE: Chinese wine is usually made from rice, but in some cases from other grains. It serves to give added flavor to either hot or cold Chinese food. Some of the best wines, being quite old, go well with both fish and meat.

Shao Hsing is the most popular wine in China. According to old custom, whenever a baby girl is born, the parents must bury a number of jars of Shao Hsing, storing them until the girl is to be married. Thus, on her wedding day, they will be assured the enjoyment of a delicious wine with their guests.

Glutinous rice is the source of Shao Hsing, and the wine should be at least one year old. After it has aged for five years or more, it is known as Hua Tiao (flower decoration) after the floral pattern of the jars in which it is kept.

Among Western wines and liqueurs, sherry, brandy, or cognac may be substituted in recipes that call for Chinese wine. Japanese sake is also an excellent substitute.

SIZES AND AMOUNTS OF INGREDIENTS. Since the ingredients called for in this book are those commonly used in the Orient, they differ occasionally from those known in the West. Almost all of them, however, can be obtained without difficulty, and the more exotic-sounding items are available at Chinese and Japanese food stores and restaurants. In cases where suitable substitutions can be made, these are suggested in the recipes. The sizes of typical ingredients can best be judged from the photograph on page 16. The following general suggestions will be helpful:

Abalone, canned: Size of can is No. 2.

Bamboo shoot: If fresh, peel and boil for 20 minutes. If canned, boiling is not required, but white calcium deposit should be scraped out before bamboo is used.

Bean curd: Soft, white, custard-like paste made from soy beans. It is called tou fu in Chinese, tofu in Japanese. One cake equals two cups or three-quarters of a pound. It spoils quickly in warm climates.

Bean sprouts: Sprouts of green beans, called tou ya ts'ai in Chinese, moyashi in Japanese. Heads and tails should be removed before sprouts are used. Canned bean sprouts should be drained before using.

Chinese cabbage: Celery cabbage.

Cucumbers: Oriental cucumbers are only about one-third the size of the American variety when full-grown.

Eggplants: Oriental eggplants are much smaller than the Western variety and are about the size of a large pear.

Flour: Wheat flour is meant unless otherwise specified.

Green peppers: Full-grown Oriental green peppers are ordinarily smaller in size than the American variety.

Ham: Boiled ham, approximately four inches in diameter.

Mushrooms: Dried mushrooms, which have an excellent flavor, are the kind most frequently called for in this book. They should be soaked in lukewarm water for 15 to 20 minutes before they are used. Stems should not be used.

Onions: Round onions or dry yellow onions may be used. In recipes calling for leeks, onions may be substituted in slightly smaller quantities.

Pork: Uncooked pork is meant unless otherwise specified.

Potatoes: Size should be such that three potatoes equal one pound.

Snow peas: Small green peas used shell and all. They should be strung before they are used.

Spinach: Oriental spinach is smaller in size and more tender than the ordinary Occidental variety and consequently requires less time for cooking.

Vermicelli: The two types of vermicelli called for in this book are not the Italian type but are made from green beans and seaweed, respectively. The type made from beans is called fên ssû in Chinese and harusame in Japanese. It is used in either hot or cold dishes. The seaweed type is called yang fên in Chinese and ito ganten in Japanese. It resembles gelatine and is best used in cold dishes. Bean vermicelli should be dipped briefly into boiling water before use, while seaweed vermicelli should be soaked for about 20 minutes in lukewarm water. The shiny type of vermicelli is best. Products made from potatoes are poor in quality and dissolve quickly in hot water. In any case, Oriental vermicelli should not be cooked too long or it will become mushy.

SPICES AND FLAVORINGS. Among the numerous seasonings employed in Chinese cookery, those mentioned below are the most common. They are listed here with general instructions for their use, but in the individual recipes they should be used strictly according to directions in order that the proper flavor will result.

Bean paste (mien chiang in Chinese, miso in Japanese): Thick, syrupy paste made from soy beans and used for added flavor in such dishes as Pancake Rolls.

Black pepper: Used chiefly for flavoring noodle dishes and soups. Also mixed with salt for dipping pieces of fried or roasted fowl. Some recipes call for black pepper-corns and some for ground black pepper. In others, powder made from rolled peppercorns is preferred to ground pepper.

Garlic: Used chiefly for flavoring fish and meats.

Ginger: Fresh ginger is best, but if it is not available, ground ginger may be used. One-eighth teaspoon of ground ginger is equivalent to one tablespoon fresh chopped ginger. For recipes in this book, one slice of ginger is a thin slice about one inch in diameter. To prevent fresh ginger from drying out, bury it in a flower pot filled with moist sand or loose earth. Ginger juice is obtained by grating fresh ginger and squeezing the juice out through a cloth.

Leek (long onion): Use white part only. Cut according to instructions in individual recipes. In this book "stalk" means only four or five inches of the white part.

Monosodium glutamate (wei ching in Chinese, ajinomoto in Japanese): "Accent," "Ajinomoto," and "Gourmet Powder" are popular brands.

Onion: Round onion may be substituted in slightly smaller amounts in recipes calling for leeks.

Red pepper: Cayenne or chili pepper. Prepared ground variety may be used, but it is preferable to make red pepper powder by toasting chili peppers in a skillet and rolling them into a powder on a board.

Red pepper oil: To prepare, heat three tablespoons of sesame oil, fry three or four red peppers in it until they turn dark, remove peppers, and use oil only. Or mix heated sesame oil with ground or rolled red pepper.

Sesame oil: Used chiefly to give added flavor to vegetables.

Sesame seed: Either black or white variety may be used unless recipe specifies which. Toasting adds interesting flavor but must be done carefully, since sesame seeds burn easily.

Soy sauce: This is as important in Chinese cookery as salt is in most other countries. It imparts a special flavor to foods. Since non-Oriental soy sauces are more concentrated and salty, they should be used in smaller amounts than those indicated in recipes in this book.

Star aniseed: The dry, star-shaped seeds add excellent flavor to beef, pork, and duck.

Sugar: Granulated sugar is meant unless otherwise specified. Since sugar used in the Orient is not so sweet as Occidental sugar, measurements called for in this book should be slightly decreased if latter is used.

Tabasco: This goes well with Chinese food and may be used in place of red pepper in certain of the recipes.

Tomato catsup: Use as indicated in recipes.

Vinegar: Since Western-style vinegar is stronger than the Oriental variety, amounts called for in this book should be slightly decreased if former is used.

Wine: If Chinese yellow wine is unavailable, dry white sherry, cognac, or Japanese sake may be substituted.

SPECIAL HELPS AND HINTS. Advance preparation: Preparation of the ingredients for Chinese dishes involves more work than the actual cooking. Much time and energy will be saved if the prepared ingredients are all assembled in one place-preferably on a large platter or plate-before the cooking process is undertaken. Seasonings should be readily accessible. Such advance steps as washing, soaking, cutting, parboiling, and pre-deep-frying should be accomplished first. Once the pan is on the fire, fried foods will require only a few minutes. If advance preparations are made, reheating, deep-frying, or sauteing will take only 15 minutes before serving.

Cutting methods: It is a basic principle of Chinese cooking to cut the ingredients into sizes and shapes convenient for picking up with chopsticks, so that knives and forks need not be used. Meat and vegetables are frequently shredded. A single dish nearly always consists of two or more main ingredients (meat and vegetables or fish and vegetables), and these are always cut to the same size. The following are the chief methods of cutting employed in recipes in this book (see photograph):

Chop: Cut into very small pieces with knife or other implement.

Cube: Cut into cubes approximately one inch in size.

Dice: Cut into small cubes the size of dice.

Flake: Cut or grate into shavings.

Grate: Rub on a grater to produce fine grains.

Mince: Cut fine with knife or kitchen scissors.

Section: Cut into one-to two-inch lengths.

Shred: Cut into fine, thread-like strips.

Slice: Cut into very thin pieces. (Abalone should be sliced in a wavy pattern.)

Wedge: Cut into small triangular sections.

Chinese cooking techniques: Braise: Brown ingredients in small amount of oil, add broth or water, cover tightly, and cook slowly (30 to 90 minutes, depending on ingredients) over weak flame until ingredients become tender. Braised dishes may be prepared in extra portions to be served at subsequent meals. This saves effort for the cook. Extra portions need only to be steamed before they are served.

Deep-fry: Fry ingredients with or without batter in plenty of deep oil.

Dredge: Sprinkle or coat with flour, cornstarch, soy sauce, or other substances before cooking.

Fry (or saute): Cook in small amount (3 to 6 tablespoons) of hot oil.

Fu yung: Cook with eggs to give omelet effect.

Mix: Combine ingredients, usually by stirring. Saute: See Fry.

Smoke: Soak meat in seasonings, then smoke over brown sugar or pine needles. This method may be substituted for deep-frying in some recipes.

Steam: Arrange food on plate or rack and steam over boiling water for 15 minutes to 1 hour.

Sweet and sour dishes: Make sauce by mixing ingredients with small amount of cornstarch and pour sauce over main ingredients.

Cornstarch: Cornstarch is used with great frequency in Chinese cooking to thicken the gravy or sauce and to make it more palatable. The use of cornstarch also serves to keep the food hot for a longer time and enhances its appearance by making it more glossy. In most cases, cornstarch is mixed with water before it is added to the other ingredients. Follow instructions in individual recipes.

Measurements: The measurements in these recipes should be strictly adhered to. If desired, they may be decreased, but never increased. In this book

1 cup equals ¹/2 pint or 200 cubic centimeters

1 tablespoon equals ¹/2 fluid ounce or 15 cubic centimeters

1 teaspoon equals 1¹/3 fluid drams or 5 cubic centimeters

For other information on measurements, see "Sizes and Amounts of Ingredients."

Oil: Since Chinese cooking requires a large amount of frying oil, it is sometimes uneconomical to use prepared oils. Also, since vegetable oils are always preferred to animal fats in Chinese cooking, peanut oil and bean oil-popular products of China and Japan-are most often used. Cottonseed oil is a satisfactory substitute. If vegetable oil is used, the food remains delicious even if it becomes cold. On the other hand, if lard is used, the food should be served hot. When you use peanut, bean, or cottonseed oil, it should first be purified as follows:

1. Pour 5 cups of oil into a pan and add 3 slices of ginger and 1 leek cut into 3 sections.

2. Heat oil until ginger and leek turn brown; then remove them. Oil is then ready for use.

Heating the oil in this fashion imparts a special flavor. When you prepare hot or cold dishes, it is wise to add a few tablespoons of sesame oil for a richer flavor. Sesame oil does not require purification before use. Chinese food is rich but not greasy.

Here are further suggestions regarding the use of oil:

1. The cooking pan should be well heated before the oil is put in.

2. The oil should be well heated before ingredients are added.

3. Ginger, leek, and garlic should be browned slightly before other ingredients are added.

4. Deep-fry oil can be used over and over again if it is poured through a strainer lined with a piece of cotton. The cotton can then be discarded, and the strainer will be easy to clean. Before each use, brown 4 slices of ginger and 5 inches of leek in the oil to remove odor. Keep oil in a covered container.

5. If oil spatters when ingredients are added, cover pan with a lid.

Seasoning: When you are preparing meat or fish dishes, these ingredients should first be partially cooked before you add soy sauce and salt.

If a little salt is first sprinkled into water or oil, boiled or fried vegetables will turn a brighter green.

When a recipe calls for several seasonings, these should first be mixed in a small bowl and placed conveniently by the cooking pan. Seasonings should be added quickly at the proper time indicated in each recipe.

For cold dishes, the sauce should not be added until immediately before serving.

Ginger and garlic should be crushed with the back of a heavy knife.

Servings: Recipes in this book will serve four persons, unless otherwise specified. Instead of increasing portions for additional guests, as one would do in most Western countries, the custom in China is to enlarge the fare with another dish or two.

Stock (or broth): A good soup stock is always essential in the preparation of Chinese food. Stock made from whole soup chicken or pieces of beef or pork is the best. Chicken, beef, and pork bones make a second-class stock. Stock made from beans, fish, dry shrimp, or vegetables may also be used.

Boil the ingredients (chicken, beef, or bones) in plenty of water with 1 stalk of leek and 3 slices of ginger. Cook over low flame and do not cover. Simmer for 1 hour. The stock should be very clear. Add ¹/2 teaspoon of mono-sodium glutamate. Remove meat from stock to be eaten separately with soy sauce or used in salad.

Utensils (see photographs, pages 21 and 22): The jack-of-all-trades in Chinese cooking is the coolie-hat pan, which is round at the bottom and is used for both frying and cooking. It is not suitable for use on an electric stove, but other pans may be substituted. If you do not have a Chinese pan, a deep frying pan will do quite well.

A steamer with a rack is another essential. The ones shown in the photograph are made of wood and bamboo. When food is to be reheated, it is much better to place it in a steamer than to heat it directly over a flame. When removing a dish from the steamer, first pour cold water inside so that you will not burn your hands.

You will also need a ladle for some of the recipes. The other required utensils will be found in any well-equipped kitchen.

You had better wait for the meat than the meat wait for you.

Chinese proverb