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WILDFLOWER BASICS

Identifying a wildflower along the trail is a skill that requires dedication and time to cultivate. Not only are there a staggering number of different wildflowers in Washington, but plants of the same species can vary a great deal. It takes time, practice, and access to reliable field guides to become skilled at plant identification. This book is designed to get hikers started on that journey. People who catch the wildflower bug will want to invest in a few field guides and wildflower identification resources to supplement this book.

At more advanced levels, wildflower identification can become quite technical, sometimes involving nearly imperceptible variations in obscure parts of the plant best left to botanists and plant experts. This book focuses on the fundamentals of plant identification, which at its most basic level is an exercise in narrowing down the field of possibilities— best done by observing different plant characteristics and zeroing in on the plant that matches your observations. Over time, you will begin to recognize a familiar set of characteristics and be able to observe, for example, “This looks like a type of vetch” or “This is definitely some type of larkspur.” Knowing what to look for is the first step. Consider the following attributes when attempting to identify a wildflower.

PLANT TYPE

The vast majority of the flowers in this book are herbaceous plants that grow each spring and summer and die back in the winter. However, some woody shrubs and trees are included as well. There’s even a cactus or two! Knowing whether the plant you’re looking at is woody or not will quickly exclude quite a number of options. As the term implies, woody shrubs and trees are made of wood that splinters when broken. They do not die back to their roots in the winter.

LEAVES

It’s tempting to focus first on the flower, but sometimes blooms are damaged, past their prime, or otherwise do not match the photos of ideal specimens in wildflower guides. Instead, start with the leaves.

Arrangement: There are four basic types of leaf arrangement: alternating, opposite, whorl, and basal. Alternating leaves alternate on the plant stem, whereas opposite leaves grow in pairs opposite each other. Whorls are simply three or more leaves attached at the same point; basal leaves are confined to the base of the plant.

Type: Leaves can be simple or compound. Simple leaves are composed of one discrete leaf on a stem, while compound leaves have multiple leaves on a single stem. Common examples of these leaf types can be found on balsamroot, which has simple leaves, and lupine, which sports compound leaves.

Margin: The margin is more or less the edge of the leaf. It’s often helpful in identifying a specific plant. There are quite a few very specific names for leaf margin types that quickly wade into technical waters. Beginners can simply note whether the leaf edge is smooth or toothed and whether it has distinct lobes.

Color: While most leaves are of course green, there is a surprising amount of variation.

Whether leaves are pale green, dark green, or tend toward another color should be noted.

Texture: Note whether the leaves are thick and fleshy or thin and flimsy. Do they have prominent veins, or are they smooth and shiny? It’s also helpful to note whether they are covered in fine hairs. All these qualities can help determine what wildflower you’re looking at.

FLOWERS

When first looking at a wildflower, we naturally focus on the color. Successful identification requires more than simply noting the color of the bloom, though the color is an important starting point.

Color: Most wildflower guides are organized by color for ease of identification. However, keep in mind that many wildflower species vary in color. Blooms can also change color as the flower matures. Avoid the trap of relying too heavily on flower color to narrow down your search. Reds can become pinks; purples can fade to blues. If you think you’ve identified the plant but the flower color is off, you’ve likely got the right plant. Do some further research to see if the plant you think it might be varies in flower color. Quite often you will find it does.

Size: Bloom size can vary from extremely tiny to several inches across. Knowing how big a flower tends to be can help narrow the list of potential candidates.

Petals: The number of petals can be important, but only up to about six. Flowers with more than six petals generally do not have a set number of petals, so the exact number is unlikely to be helpful. The shape of the petals can also be helpful, so note whether edges are smooth, lobed, or ragged.

Stamens and Pistils: Stamens produce the plant’s pollen, while the pistil produces the plant’s seed. There is generally one central pistil that extends beyond multiple stamens, though two major exceptions are members of the pea and sunflower families, which do not follow this general guideline. Noting the number, shape, and prominence of these structures is sometimes helpful in the identification process.

Sepals and Tepals: The sepal is the generally greenish portion of the flower that supports the petals. It is occasionally colorful, as anyone who has ever hiked past a flowering paintbrush has observed. Tepal is just another name for both petals and sepals. While these flower parts are nearly too much detail for this book, a few featured wildflowers are identified by these characteristics. In most cases for our purposes, being able to discern sepals and tepals is not necessary to identify a wildflower.

ENVIRONMENT

Where you find a flower is also an important consideration. Different wildflowers prefer different soils and environments, so note where the flower is growing.

Elevation: This value need not be exact. But generally knowing whether you’re in a lowland forest, on a forested mountainside, or in an alpine meadow will help narrow the possibilities.

Soil Moisture: Essentially, you’ll want to note whether the flower is clinging to a streamside or is eking out an existence in the arid scrublands. Rocky, dry soil conditions are home to different wildflowers than snowmelt-soaked mountain meadows.

Location: The specific geographic location where you’ve come across a wildflower can also be helpful in identifying a particular plant. Like all living things, wildflowers are commonly found within a defined range, which can sometimes aid you in identification.

CLIMATE

Similar to the wildflower’s environment, knowing the general climate the wildflower is found in can quickly point you in the right direction. Broadly speaking, there are four distinct wildflower climates in Washington.

Coastal: Wildflowers in this environment thrive in moist but sandy soils at low elevation. They are often in more exposed environments and are therefore lower to the ground and tend to rely more often on wind pollination.

Subalpine Forest: The most common wildflower climate in Washington is the subalpine forest, which for purposes of this book encompasses all forests up to the alpine tree line. Wildflowers in this environment enjoy soils that are generally moister and benefit from the sheltering trees. Flowers tend to be vibrant as they attract a variety of insects and other pollinators.

Alpine: Climates above the tree line, the elevation above which trees do not grow, are prone to increased exposure to wind, and snows linger long. Wildflowers in this zone grow low to the ground and thrive in thin, rocky soils. With access to fewer pollinators, blooms tend to be less vibrant than flowers at lower elevations.

Scrubland: Much of the eastern portion of the state is essentially scrubland or desert prairie. Harsh winters and hot summers sweep through this region annually, so wildflowers in this habitat are built to withstand more extreme swings in temperature and are drought resistant. Blooms vary widely, with some wildflowers putting on brilliant floral displays, while others prefer a more sedate presentation. These flowers depend on a wide range of pollinators, from bees to bats.

Finally, the most important tip might be to take a couple of pictures of each plant you want to identify, making sure you get a good shot of both the flower and the leaves. Good luck, and remember to have fun!

PHOTOGRAPHING WILDFLOWERS

Many hikers are eager to take beautiful photographs of the wildflowers they find on the trail. Whether the photos are destined to be shared with friends or merely used to later identify the flower, here are some tips for taking the best photographs without trampling the flowers.

•Use a macro lens (105 mm recommended) or a telephoto lens so you can shoot your flower subject from a distance, or walk on rocks to get closer to the wildflowers you’re shooting without trampling vegetation.

Scarlet paintbrush brightens the slopes of Johnston Ridge (Hike 37) with cloud-covered Mount St. Helens on the horizon.

•If you use a cell phone to take photos, a selfie stick can get your camera closer to the flower while you stay on the trail.

•Plan your shot before you take it by getting close to the ground without looking through the viewfinder. This way you can pay attention and avoid damaging your surroundings.

•Consider using a camera with a live-view display that can articulate 90 degrees. This feature allows you to put your camera close to the ground without having to lie on the ground. Alternatively, many DSLRs have viewfinder attachments so you can look down at the camera versus being on the ground.

•Carry a tripod so you can be more careful about what you’re doing. If you’re serious about doing close-up photos of flowers, a tripod is all but required, as the high f-stop (f-10 or above) necessary to get a reasonable depth of field lowers shutter speed and makes it more likely that small camera shakes will blur the images.

A ground squirrel peeks up from the ground in the midst of phlox near Windy Pass (Hike 15).

•Plan to crop your image. The resolution on most modern cameras is very high, which allows you to take flower pictures from a distance, then crop them later while keeping very good image quality.

•Consider skipping flowers that are difficult to get to. There is a good chance you’ll see the same species farther down the trail in a spot where it’s easier to photograph—if not, there are always more hikes to do!

We also have a few tips on technique:

•Use a macro lens for up-close work and a wide angle for landscapes.

•Practice! The more shots you take, the better you will become at knowing which photographs are worth your time.

•Get low to the ground. Be eye-level with the blooms, or use a right-angle viewfinder.

•Be patient. Often the breeze will work against you, or people on the trail will be in your shot, so wait for a calm moment.

•Take multiple shots from different angles. Often the third or fourth shot will turn out to be the best one.

•Avoid harsh lighting. While high contrast can sometimes produce interesting images, flower petals are often somewhat reflective, which can spoil the photograph. Consider underexposing your photos in bright lighting and correcting them later.

•If you’re using a cell phone camera with HDR (high-dynamic range), try out that feature to boost the contrast in your images. Portrait mode can blur the background in an appealing way. Remember that many cell phones have a panorama mode that is excellent for big landscapes. Avoid using zoom and cropping images, which can degrade the quality.

•Avoid selfies. Have someone else take a picture of you so you can stay safe and avoid damaging the vegetation.

Mount Townsend seen from summit of Mount Zion (Hike 3)