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La tiella is the most famous and distinctive dish in the city of Gaeta. Its name comes from the pan in which it is baked. In Gaeta, the local dialect uses the word ‘tiella’ to refer to a pan with low sides which flare out. Therefore, the dish created in this pan is also called tiella.

There are many legends surrounding its origin—too many to trace. It is certain, however, that la tiella was born in Il Borgo, the area outside the city walls where poor farmers and fishermen lived. Out of necessity, and through the creativity and skill of the housewife, they found a way to use local products and keep them preserved for several days since there was no refrigeration. La tiella represented a complete food for farmers and fishermen who returned home in the evening.

It is said that during his stay in Gaeta, King Ferdinand IV of Bourbon learned to appreciate tiella. He considered it ‘the first, second and third course’ of any meal.

La tiella can be found in every bakery, pizzeria and grill in Gaeta. It is even available in bars and grocery stores. It is tastiest when baked the traditional way in a wood-fired oven, but it is delicious served hot or cold and is always eaten with one’s hands.

La tiella consists of two thin layers of dough crimped around the edges to enclose a filling of seafood or vegetables. Squid, anchovies or the catch of the day are the most common seafood fillings, and any seasonal vegetable is suitable for la tiella. Zucchini, escarole and spinach are popular favorites. No matter the filling, la tiella always includes plenty of extra virgin olive oil and Gaetian olives. The border sealing the two disks of dough is always wavy to represent the sea.

The success of la tiella depends on the quality and measurement of the ingredients and the way in which the dough is kneaded. Therefore, each tiella may turn out differently and its recipe cannot be totally scripted. Each is unique, reflecting the skill and creativity of the cook.

Author’s note: Gaetian olives are small, round, with a dark purple color and the flesh soft with a slight sour taste.