Читать книгу Sultan's Kitchen - Ozcan Ozan - Страница 6
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
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IT ALMOST GOES WITHOUT SAYING THAT WHEN you eat in Turkey, you eat well. Good food is an important part of Turkish culture, and if you walk the streets of any city, you will see and smell it all around you. Tea shops and outdoor cafes abound. Colorful streetside displays of produce, small specialty food shops, neighborhood bakeries, street vendors, and daily shoppers are typical throughout the country.
Partly in Europe and partly in Asia, Turkey stands at the crossroads of many cultures. Istanbul is at the southeastern end of Europe, and Ankara, the capital, is located in Anatolia, which comprises the peninsula of Asia Minor. Turkey has a long coastline along the Mediterranean Sea in the south, the Black Sea in the north, and the Aegean Sea in the west. High mountain ranges run parallel to the sea in the south and in the north. The eastern part is very mountainous, and there is a vast plateau in the center of the country, which comprises Anatolia. To the north, it is surrounded by Russia and the Russian republics, in the east Iran, in the south Syria, lebanon, Iraq, and Israel, in the west, Greece and Bulgaria.
Turkey is a land of many civilizations that have come and gone, leaving behind the ruins of ancient cities. The Turks originally migrated from central Asia, and settled in Asia Minor, where they were influenced by the presence of other cultures, among them the Hittites, Byzantines, Greeks, Romans, Selçuks, and Ottomans.
In 1453, relatively recently in terms of Turkish history, the Ottoman tribe conquered Constantinople (now Istanbul) and the Ottoman Empire ruled much of the medieval world. At the Topkapi Palace in Constantinople, great chefs refined the dishes that constitute today's Turkish cuisine. During this time, the culinary arts were an important part of the daily life in the sultan's courts. With the infinite variety of fish, fowl, meat, fruit, grains, and vegetables that were available in Turkey, Ottoman chefs competed to create innovative new dishes for the sultans.
The Ottoman Empire reached its height of power during the reign of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent, who added a kitchen with six domes to the Topkapi Palace and employed more than a thousand cooks. It was natural for the court kitchen to be influenced by Western culture, and the Europeans were also influenced by the Ottomans. In fact, open-air cafes are an example of an Ottoman tradition brought to Europe. These culinary legacies created a rich cuisine that was admired and carried into the Middle East, the Balkans, parts of Russia and Europe, and North Africa.
Turkish food is wonderfully spiced and has complex flavors. Turks are used to eating well, and their standards are high. There are some sophisticated recipes that require skill and time, but most can be prepared easily. There are unusual flavor combinations—eggplant with garlic and yogurt, for example—and beautiful presentation is an important consideration. The Turkish diet, in which a great variety of foods and more vegetables, fruits, beans and grains than meat are eaten, is a very healthy one. The cuisine's most important characteristic is its reliance on very fresh ingredients, and the cooking methods bring out the natural flavors of those ingredients. Vegetables and fruits are eaten during the season in which they are grown and purchased daily. Fish is eaten on the day it is caught.
Lamb, fish, and beans are sources of protein, and bread is a staple. Garlic, onions, spices, and fresh and dried herbs are used as seasonings. Yogurt is eaten in sauces and drinks, and cheeses, especially sheep's milk cheeses and soft white cheese (like the Greek feta) are also a regular part of meals. Different foods are served in different seasons: summer dishes use fresh produce, are lighter, and are served chilled or at room temperature while winter dishes are heartier and heavier, using root vegetables and stewed beans and meats.
Eating habits vary from region to region, but a typical day in Turkey often starts with a breakfast of freshly baked bread, sliced tomatoes, several types of olives, cheese, and jams. There may be soft-boiled eggs, or böreks, the stuffed savory pastries that are also eaten throughout the day. Breakfast is served with Turkish tea.
Lunch and dinner may both start with a soup, which is so popular that there are many specialized soup shops, called corbaçı. At dinner, soup may be followed by a main course of grilled meat, chicken, or fish, and served with pilaf and salad. Dessert is typically fruit compote (stewed, dried fruits like raisins or apricots), fresh fruit, or pudding.
For special occasions or parties, tables are spread with meze, a selection of appetizers that consists of seasonal vegetables cooked with olive oil, pureed or stuffed vegetables, seafood, or böreks. Baklava and other sweet desserts are most often served on special occasions.
In the past bread was used instead of forks to eat meals that were served on the floor, with the family sharing from a large tray. Today's eating customs are modern, but bread-pita, sourdough, and flat breads, to name a few-is still an important part of every meal. The best breads are found outside of the cities, in the small villages, because in urban areas traditional bread-making has given way to mass production.
During the day, snacks of böreks purchased at shops called börekçı are eaten with ayran, a tangy yogurt drink. Turkish tea is served throughout the day.
Each region of Turkey has its own cooking style and specialties. In eastern Turkey and Anatolia, the food is robust and spicy-not spicy like the flavors of hot peppers, but pungent and complex. In many parts of the region they use clarified butter, butter and animal fat for cooking, especially the fat rendered from sheep's tails. In this region, dishes are prepared with unusual seasonings like molasses, unripened grape juice, dried fruits, and loquats. Beans and yogurt are also used in much of the cuisine. Tandir Kebabı or Kuyu Kebabı, a specialty of Anatolia, is prepared by slowly grilling a young lamb in a tightly covered dirt pit. Anatolian cuisine is becoming more popular in other parts of Turkey.
In the Western and Mediterranean parts of Turkey, dishes are prepared with olive oil and include small amounts of meat that are always cooked with vegetables. Olive oil is the main ingredient and vegetables cooked in olive oil are popular. Chief among these are dolmalar (dolmas) and sarmalar (sarmas), which are stuffed or rolled leafy vegetables cooked with rice, black currants, pine nuts, herbs, and olive oil.
The Aegean and Mediterranean regions produce much of Turkey's fruit and the city of İzmir is known for its figs, grapes, fragrant Manisa kirkağaç melons and large, sweet Bursa peaches. Fresh fruits are eaten before, after, and in between meals, and they are also made into compotes or jams, or are dried. I remember picking figs with my mother as a child. We would dry them and in the winter we would stuff each fig with a walnut and eat them for dessert.
~ Mounds of fresh eggplants and string beans for sale
Olive trees are everywhere in the Aegean and Mediterranean regions of Turkey. They produce all types of olives: black, green, light reddish green, beige, and pink, which are served at all meals, and they are often garnished with a drizzle of oil, a squeeze of lemon juice, and a sprinkling of dried herbs.
Fish are plentiful in these coastal regions and it is prepared in many ways. Almost everybody has a charcoal grill at home, even in the high-rise apartment buildings where they are kept and used on balconies. (I recently saw a true example of the old encountering the new when visiting my brother-in-law in İzmir, who was using a hair dryer to intensify the charcoal fire on his apartment balcony. He grilled çipura, a fish for which İzmir is famed. It was delicious!)
The flavors of Turkey have as broad a range as its many peoples and cultural influences. Some of these recipes are centuries old, and they have all evolved somewhat with time and with changing cooking methods. Despite the passage of time, these dishes are almost unmatched in their wholesomeness and rich flavors. The recipes I've collected here represent a sampling of Turkish cuisine. I am happy to share them with you, and welcome you to the world of Turkish food.
~ A summer luncheon (see menu above) served with Raisin Compote (page 150) and Rustic Turkish Bread (page 46)
SUGGESTED MENUS
ALL MENUS SERVE 4-6 PEOPLE
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Summer dinner menu
SOUP: High Plateau Soup (page 60)
APPETIZER: Stuffed Eggplant (page 19)
MAIN COURSE: Char-Grilled Swordfish Shish Kebab (page 110) and White Rice Pilaf (page 115)
SALAD: Shepherd's Salad (page 127)
DESSERT: Pistachio Semolina Cake (page 139) and Turkish Coffee (page 150)
Winter dinner menu
SOUP: Red lentil, Bulgur, and Mint Soup (page 66)
APPETIZER: Jerusalem Artichokes Cooked in Olive Oil (page 24)
MAIN COURSE: Pasha's Kofta (page 76) and Bulgur Pilaf with Peppers and Tomatoes (page 120)
SALAD: Daikon Radish Salad (page 128)
DESSERT: Baklava (page 137) and Turkish Coffee (page 150)
Summer lunch menu
Serve a sour cherry drink (page 151) or ayran, a yogurt drink (page 151), with this menu.
APPETIZER: Fried Eggplant and Green Peppers with Yogurt-Garlic and Tomato Sauces (page 20)
MAIN COURSE: Spicy Char-Grilled Kofta Shish Kebab (page 77) and Rice Pilaf with Chickpeas (page 115) and Onion Relish (page 15)
SALAD: Dandelion Salad (page 124)
DESSERT: Almond Pudding (page 147)
Winter lunch menu
APPETIZER: Spicy Pureed Tomatoes (page 19)
MAIN COURSE: lamb with White Beans in a Clay Pot (page 81) and White Rice Pilaf (page 115)
SALAD: Celeriac Salad (page 126)
DESSERT: Shredded Filo Dough with Walnuts (page 140)
DRINK: Turkish Tea (page 150)
TURIKISH INGREDIENTS
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MOST OF THE INGREDIENTS USED IN TURKISH cuisine are not that unusual, and you will be able to find them in a well-stocked supermarket or gourmet shop. But there are a few items that you will need to buy in specialty or Middle Eastern food stores. See the list on page 153 for mail-order sources.
BEANS AND PEAS: Beans and peas are used widely in Turkish cooking, both fresh and dried. Some of the beans used in Turkey are slightly different, but I have given readily available alternatives in each recipe.
Dried beans and peas need to be soaked overnight to reduce their cooking time. Wash the beans and remove any pebbles or dirt. Place them in a pot or bowl with enough cold water so that the water level is 2 inches above the top of the beans. They can soak at room temperature, but refrigerate them if the weather is very warm. leave them to soak overnight (8-10 hours), and discard anything that floats to the surface. The next day, drain the beans and wash them again.
If you don't have time to soak the legumes overnight, you can prepare them using the quick method: place 2 cups of beans with 6 cups of water in a large pot and boil for 2 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and let the beans sit for 1 hour before cooking. See also Fava Beans.
BLACK CARAWAY SEEDS (COREK OTU): These small black seeds are also called black cumin or nigella seeds. They have an intense fragrance and flavor unlike that of any other spice. In Turkey, they are sprinkled on pita bread, rolls, and other breads before baking.
BULGUR (CRACKED WHEAT): This cracked wheat comes in fine, medium and coarse grinds. Sold in supermarkets either in bulk or in boxes, it is used for making various pilafs and is added to salads. Use the fine grind for making salads, and medium to coarse grinds for pilafs.
CLARIFIED BUTTER (SUZME YAG): You can substitute regular butter wherever I have listed clarified butter in the ingredients lists, except in the desserts. I prefer to use clarified butter whenever melted butter is called for, especially in making pastries. Clarified butter lacks the impurities that cause butter to burn easily and turn black. Turkish desserts, such as baklava, keep longer at room temperature when they are made with clarified butter because the milk solids, which sour easily, have been removed.
To make 1 1/2 cups of clarified butter, melt a pound of butter in a saucepan over low heat until a white foam appears on the surface. Skim and discard the foam. Slowly pour the clarified butter in a bowl, leaving behind and discarding the milk solids that have collected at the bottom of the pan. It will keep for a few weeks stored in a cool place.
FRESH CORIANDER (KISNIS): This herb, which is sold in markets in this country under the Spanish name cilantro, is widely used in cooking in the southern and eastern parts of Turkey. Kişniş looks a bit like Italian flat-leafed parsley, but the leaves are more delicate. In Turkish cuisine, it lends its distinctive flavor to pilafs, salads, and soups. To keep it fresh for up to a week, place the coriander stems in a jar of water, cover with plastic bag, and refrigerate.
EGGPLANT (PATLICAN): Eggplant has a special place in Turkish cuisine, and it is featured in a wide range of dishes. In Turkey, the eggplants are small, long, and thin and range in color from purple to almost black. These are stuffed or added to stews and pilafs. In these recipes, I've recommended using Italian eggplants, which are similar. Globe eggplants, called bostan patlıcan, are also used in Turkey, in recipes that call for the flesh to be pureed like in beğendi, a creamed eggplant accompaniment to meat.
I use eggplants imported from Holland because I find them fresher and less bitter than those grown here. When buying eggplants, make sure the skins are tight and smooth, without any dark spots. The stems should be green and fresh.
~ Top Row: saffron, pistachio nuts, mastic, almonds
Second Row: pine nuts, baharat, black caraway seeds, vanilla crystals
Third Row: whole and ground sumac, dried mint, Turkish red pepper (from Mara). red lentils
Fourth Row: ground cumin, Turkish red pepper (from Gaziantep), whole anise seeds
Because eggplants can have a bitter taste, it is a good idea to soak them before using them. This will also keep fried eggplant from absorbing too much oil. Place sliced eggplant in a bowl. Generously salt the slices, cover with cold water, and set aside for 30 minutes. Rinse the slices under cold running water, gently squeeze out the excess water, and pat them dry with paper towels.
FAVA BEANS (TAZE BAKLA): In summer, fresh young fava beans are cooked and simmered in olive oil and served with yogurt or Yogurt-Garlic Sauce (page 13). Older beans are shelled and cooked fresh. Dried fava beans are available year-round and come in two varieties: the large brown kind and the small light green or white ones, both of which need to be soaked before cooking. Fresh fava beans may be slightly difficult to obtain—they are also called broad beans and are usually available in the summertime, especially in Italian markets.
FETA CHEESE (BEYAZ PEYNIR): A semifirm cheese that crumbles easily, Turkish white cheese (the Greek version is feta cheese), is made from sheep's or goat's milk and then soaked in a brine mixture. Some white cheeses are softer or creamier than others, and the degree of saltiness can also vary considerably.
Before cooking with feta cheese, first rid it of some of its saltiness. Cut the cheese into chunks and soak it in warm water for about 20 minutes, changing the water several times. The best beyaz peynir in Turkey comes from northwestern Edirne.
(FILO YUFKA): This is the dough that is used in many classic Turkish pastries, including baklava. It is made of flour, eggs, and water, and is rolled out as thin as paper. To get homemade filo (see page 136) to its characteristic thinness, it is rolled out first with a large thick rolling pin called a merdane and then a very thin rolling pin called an oklava. In Turkey, filo dough comes in various thicknesses, with the thicker doughs used for böreks.
Filo dough can be bought fresh in Middle Eastern supermarkets and frozen in most other supermarkets. Each package contains twenty to twenty-two sheets of dough. Thick filo dough, called yufka, is available by mail order.
To use frozen filo dough, let it stand in the box at room temperature for about 6 hours, or let it thaw in the refrigerator overnight. Remove the dough from the package and thaw for another hour without unrolling it. Because filo is so thin, it dries out easily. Therefore, keep the dough covered with a damp cloth.
SHREDDED FILO DOUGH (KADAYIF OR KADAIFI): Kadayıf dough is made with flour, milk, and water. The batter is poured through a fine sieve onto a large, moving hot steel plate, thereby creating its characteristic long strings and slightly cooked texture. It is available either fresh or frozen.
To use frozen kadayıf dough, let it stand in the box at room temperature for about 6 hours; then remove it from the box and let it thaw for another hour. Alternatively, let it thaw in the refrigerator overnight, remove from the box, and thaw for another hour. Divide the shredded filo dough in half by holding it upright and pulling it apart. Place the dough on a dry surface and cover it with a damp cloth to prevent it from drying out.
FISH: It is important to use fresh fish for the best flavor. When buying whole fish, the eyes should be bright and clear, not clouded, and the gills should be bright red and open. Make sure the skin is shiny and the flesh is firm.
When buying fillets, check that the flesh is firm, not spongy. They should not have any ammonia smell. Swordfish steaks should be white to light pinkish and firm.
GRAPE LEAVES (ASMA YAPRAGI SALAMURASI): In Turkey, home cooks pick fresh grape leaves, which grow in the Aegean and Mediterranean regions of the country. After cleaning them, they blanch the leaves in water salted with sea salt. The leaves are then packed in a brine solution, in which they keep for as long as six months. Grape leaves are sold in most big supermarkets. look for one-pound jars containing about eighty leaves. Opened jars keep for as long as a year, stored in the refrigerator.
Before cooking them, unroll the grape leaves and boil them for 1 minute to help remove some of the brine.
KASSERI CHEESE (KASAR PEYNIRI): A semifirm cheese made from sheep's milk, kasseri is light yellow, very smooth, and elegant. It ranges from mild to sharp, in the same way that cheddar cheese does. In fact, a sharp cheddar makes an acceptable alternative. The best kasseri comes from the eastern Turkish town of Kars and the northwestern town of Edirne.
LAMB: lamb is the most popular meat in Turkey, and it is consumed in great quantities than chicken or beef. The best lamb is always the youngest you can get. When it is nine months to a year old, lamb is sold as mutton, and the flesh will be redder. Good lamb should have lightly rosy flesh and pure white fat around the edges. When buying it, look for smaller roasts-under six pounds with the bone in is best. (lamb is tastier when it is cooked with the bone in.) lamb from Australia and New Zealand is smaller and comes from younger animals than that sold in the United States.
MASTIC (SAKIZ): Mastic is a pale white resin from a small evergreen tree. People often chew it like chewing gum. It has a subtle flavor reminiscent of pine and is used to flavor puddings and ice creams. It is sold in small quantities in Middle Eastern supermarkets.
MINT LEAVES, DRIED (KURU NANE): Another important ingredient in Turkish cooking, dried mint is used far more widely than fresh mint. The dried ground mint sold in supermarkets lacks the fragrance and subtlety of the lightly crumbled imported leaves sold loose or in containers from Middle Eastern supermarkets.
OLIVE OIL: Olive oil is another of the staple ingredients in Turkish cuisine, and the four grades are used for different purposes. Olive oils vary in flavor, color, and aroma, depending on where the olives are grown, how the oil is processed, and the level of acidity.
Olives are delicate, and ideally they are hand-picked or are shaken from the trees and collected in nets spread underneath. The olives should be pressed within three days of harvesting because they grow more acidic if they sit too long. Traditionally the olives were crushed using huge round stones, but now it is done with mechanical presses.
Extra-virgin olive oil, the result of the first cold pressing of the olives, is the most expensive grade of oil and has an acidity of 0-1 percent. It ranges. in color from emerald green to olive, and its flavor is fruity. I use it for seasoning, marinades, dressings, and drizzled over salads and cooked food just before serving.
Virgin olive oil is also from the first cold pressing of the olives, and is semifruity with a more pronounced olive flavor. It is lighter green than extra-virgin, with acidity between 2 and 3 percent, and is a bit less expensive. I use virgin olive oil for cooking.
Olive oil is a blend of refined olive oil from the second press of the olives and virgin olive oil. It is yellow and has less flavor. You can use this oil in sauces, delicately seasoned soups, and for subtly flavored dishes.
Olive pomace oil, or light olive oil, is the lowest and least expensive grade of olive oil. It is light yellow and has only a little flavor. Pomace is what remains of the olives after the second press. The pomace oil is extracted using solvents and is then blended with virgin olive oil. I use this oil for frying and sautéing.
PINE NUTS OR PIGNOLI (BEYAZ FISTIK): These small pale yellow nuts taste best when they are lightly browned in butter or olive oil (depending on the recipe). The best pine nuts have an elongated, even shape and uniform color. They are used in pilafs, stuffings, stuffed vegetables (sarmalar and doimalar), and desserts.
ROSE WATER (GUL SUYU): Distilled from fragrant rose petals, rose water is used in Turkish cooking to flavor milk puddings, drinks, and syrups. It can be purchased by the bottle in specialty shops. look for pure rose water and be sure it is meant for culinary use rather than cosmetic use.
SEMOLINA (IRMIK): Made from durum wheat and sold in small boxes in supermarkets or in bulk in specialty stores, semolina comes in fine and coarse grinds.
SUMAK (SUMAK): These dried, crushed red berries give a slightly lemony and sour flavor to dishes. Sumac is also often used as a table condiment and sprinkled over grilled meats, chicken, and salads. Turkish sumac is unrelated to the poisonous shrub.
SUZME YOGURT: Called torba yogurdu in Turkish, this yogurt has been left to drain so that it becomes thick and creamy. It is used to make herb-flavored spreads, and it is also used in cooking.
To make 2 cups of thick yogurt, take 6 cups plain yogurt, line a large sieve with a double layer of cheesecloth, place the sieve over a large bowl, pour the yogurt into the sieve, and let it drip. In 1 hour the yogurt will start to get thick. Let the yogurt drain, covered and refrigerated, in the sieve overnight to get a very thick consistency.
TAHINI: Made from ground sesame seeds, tahini comes in both light and dark varieties, the latter being made from roasted ground sesame seeds. In Turkish cooking, light tahini is used in making hummus. It comes in jars or cans and is sold in regular supermarkets, health food stores, and Middle Eastern supermarkets.
TOMATO: Always buy tomatoes that are firm and have bright red skin. Some recipes call for skinned and seeded tomatoes. I remove the skin by peeling them with a sharp paring knife. To skin a large quantity of tomatoes quickly, plunge them in boiling water for about 30 seconds, take them out with a slotted spoon and put them into ice water for 20 seconds. Take them out of the ice water and with a sharp paring knife, score the skin once near the top of the tomato—the skin will split. Peel off the skin of each tomato in strips and remove the stem by cutting in a cone shape around it. Pat the tomatoes dry, and if you are planning to use them in a cold dish, refrigerate them. To remove the seeds, cut the tomatoes in quarters and use your fingertips to scrape them out.
~ Turkish red pepper
TURKISH RED PEPPER, DRIED (KIRMIZI ACI BIBER): This ground or flaked red pepper is another seasoning, like garlic and onion, that has a special place in Turkish cuisine and is used in every kind of dish. It is slightly moist with a coarse texture and imparts aroma, heat, subtle pepper flavor, and a reddish color to dishes. Its flavor ranges from very hot, semihot, to mild and sweet, and it can be light red, dark red, purplish, and even black.
The best red peppers grown in southeastern Turkey near the cities of Mara§, Gaziantep, and Urfa, and the peppers of each area have a distinctive flavor and color. Urfa red peppers are roasted, and the pepper is black. In Mara§, the red peppers are crushed and rubbed with oil to impart flavors. The pepper is very aromatic and dark red. In Gaziantep the peppers are milder and lighter red.
The southeast of Turkey is known for its spicy dishes, and in other regions cooks simply use less pepper to produce milder variations. Don't be afraid to use Turkish red pepper because it's more flavorful than hot—more like the heat imparted by a good ground red pepper, which makes an acceptable substitute.
VANILLA CRYSTALS: Customarily used in Turkish cooking, this fine white powder has a stronger flavor and none of the alcohol found in vanilla extract. If you can't obtain it, use double the amount of vanilla extract instead.
SAUCES AND CONDIMENTS
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SAUCES IN TURKISH COOKING tend to be very simple and very fresh. Rarely is any sauce simmered for any length of time. Indeed, to preserve the freshness of tomatoes and herbs, sauces are usually made quickly just before a dish is served.
Ground pine nuts, garlic, olive oil, and lemon are combined to make Beyaz fistikli Tarator (page 13), a delicious cold sauce that accompanies grilled fish and seafood. Terbiye (page 15), an egg and lemon sauce with a creamy, velvety texture and tangy flavor, is served with stuffed vegetables and stuffed grape leaves. Plain yogurt or yogurt flavored with raw garlic, Saramiskli Yoğurt Sos (page 13), is served as a simple sauce for grilled meats and vegetables, pilafs, savory pastries, and as a topping for cooked Swiss chard or spinach.
The best sauces for salads are invariably based on a green, quality extra-virgin olive oil and a little lemon juice or vinegar—what changes are the herbs that season them.
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Zeytinyağlı Salata Sosu
Olive Oil and Lemon Sauce
MAKES 1/2 CUPS
1/2 cup lemon juice
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon dried or fresh oregano
1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves (optional)
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Combine the lemon juice, garlic, oregano, and parsley (if you're using it) in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. If the flavor is too strong, add a little cold water. Refrigerate the sauce for 20 minutes and whisk it just before serving.
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Yayla Salata Sosu
High Plateau Sauce
MAKES 1/2 CUPS
This sauce can also be served with cold cooked vegetables.
1/2 cup plain yogurt
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh mint
1/3 cup lemon juice
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Combine the yogurt, garlic, mint, and lemon juice in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. If the flavor is too strong, add a little cold water. Refrigerate the sauce for about 20 minutes and whisk it just before serving.
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Zeytinyağlı Sirkeli Salata Sosu
Olive Oil and Red Wine Vinegar Sauce
MAKES 1 1/2 CUPS
2 shallots, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh Italian parsley
Combine the shallots, garlic, oregano, and red wine vinegar in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Add the parsley. If the flavor is too strong, add a little cold water. Refrigerate the sauce for about 20 minutes and whisk it just before serving.
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Ege Salata Sosu Aegean Sauce MAKES 2 CUPS
1 bunch watercress, trimmed and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
1/3 cup finely chopped pitted green olives
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (1/2 cup)
To trim the watercress, remove the larger, bottom stems and keep the tender stems on the tip and the leaves.
Combine the watercress, white wine vinegar, and green olives in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Add the feta cheese and stir well. If the flavor is too strong, add a little cold water. Refrigerate the sauce for 20 minutes and whisk it just before serving.
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Sarmısaklı Yoğurt Sos Yogurt-Garlic Sauce MAKES 1 2/3 CUPS
This popular sauce is traditionally served with grilled and stuffed vegetable dishes, pilafs, and böreks (savory pastries). It is also served with plain cooked greens, such as spinach or Swiss chard.
1 2/3 cups plain yogurt
4 garlic cloves, minced
Salt
In a small bowl, whisk the yogurt, garlic, and salt until the mixture is very smooth. Cover the bowl and refrigerate the sauce for at least 15 minutes to allow the flavor of the garlic to blend with the yogurt.
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Beyaz fistikli Tarator Pine Nut Sauce MAKES 1 2/3 CUPS
Serve this sauce with grilled meat and fish or as a dip for raw vegetables. It is also delicious made with chopped walnuts instead of the pine nuts.
1 slice day-old white bread, crusts removed
1 cup pine nuts 1
Teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 cup lemon juice
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Soak the slice of bread in water briefly and squeeze out excess water.
Place the pine nuts, garlic, lemon juice, and bread in a food processor and process while slowly putting in the olive oil. Add 2 tablespoons cold water and process until the mixture is smooth. Season with salt. Transfer the sauce to a bowl and refrigerate it for 1 hour before serving, to allow the flavors to blend.
~ Pine Nut Sauce (page 13), Onion Relish (page 15), and Aegean Sauce (page 13)
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Aci Kirmizi Biber Salçasi
Red Hot Pepper Paste
MAKES 1 CUP
Use as a flavoring for soups, and serve with meats and fish.
1 pound red chili peppers, cored and seeded
1 pound red bell peppers, cored and seeded
1 teaspoon sugar
Salt
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Place the chili peppers and bell peppers in 1 1/2 quarts boiling water and cook for 15 minutes, or until they're softened. Drain them and let them cool. Peel the skins from the peppers. Place them in a blender or a food processor fitted with a metal blade and puree until smooth.
Transfer the puree to a saucepan over very low heat, add the sugar and season with salt. Simmer, uncovered, for about 25 minutes. Let the mixture cool to room temperature (about 1 hour). Pour it into a glass jar, add the vinegar, and stir. Pour the olive oil in gently so it stays in a layer on top of the pepper paste. Cover the jar and store it in the refrigerator. The paste will stay good refrigerated for up to three months. Stir the paste before serving.
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Terbiye Egg and Lemon Sauce MAKES 1 1/2 CUPS
This sauce is served over stuffed grape leaves, stuffed Swiss chard, and meat-stuffed vegetables (sarmas and dolmas).
1 1/2 cups chicken stock (page 58) or water
4 egg yolks
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon cornstarch
Salt
Slowly bring the chicken stock to a boil in a small saucepan. Meanwhile, in a small nonreactive bowl, combine the egg yolks, lemon juice, and cornstarch. Slowly whisk in this mixture to the boiling stock. Simmer for about 2 minutes until thickened. Serve warm over sarmas or dolmas.
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Soğan Piyazı Onion Relish MAKES 1 3/4 CUPS
Serve this relish as an accompaniment to grilled meat or fish. Squeezing the sliced onions helps extract the juice so it blends with the other flavors.
2 medium red onions, thinly sliced
Salt
2 teaspoons sumac
2 teaspoons Turkish pepper or ground red pepper
1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
Place the onion slices in a bowl, season with salt and squeeze them a few times with your fingers to extract some of the juice. Add the sumac, Turkish red pepper, and parsley. Mix them together well.
