Читать книгу Sultan's Kitchen - Ozcan Ozan - Страница 7
ОглавлениеMEZE APPETIZERS
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TURKISH CUISINE IS PERHAPS BEST known for its seemingly endless variety of hot and cold dishes that make up a meze. A meze (literally, "table") can be-and often is-served as an entire meal. It changes with the seasons and locale—according to what foods are available-but is constant in its abundance of choices. Fish restaurants along the coast serve specialty meze consisting of an array of seafood dishes prepared with squid, shrimp, octopus, mussels, or that most enticing of dishes-—resh sardines wrapped in grape leaves, which are eaten in late summer.
Seasonal vegetables are cooked in olive oil and flavored with herbs, a method called zeytinyağlı Dolmalar (dolmas) are vegetables like peppers, artichokes, and eggplants, that are stuffed with rice, pine nuts, currants, and even meat. leafy vegetables like grape leaves that are rolled around the stuffing are called sarmalar (sarmas). (Many people mistakenly call stuffed grape leaves dolmas). Vegetable dishes in a meze are invariably served with Sarmısaklı Yogurt Sos, a tangy yogurt-garlic sauce (page 13).
Eggplant, perhaps the most used vegetable in Turkish cuisine, is prepared in a number of ways for meze. Small eggplants stuffed with onion, garlic, tomato, and parsley make up the classic Imam Bayıldı. In Pathcan Salatası, char-grilled eggplant is cut into pieces and mixed with tomatoes and grilled peppers. Pathcan Ezmesi is a pureed eggplant dish-ezmesi means "pureed." Tomatoes, spinach, chickpeas, dried fava beans, and fava beans are also prepared this way.
A meze always includes sliced soft white cheese (beyaz peynir, which is like feta cheese), peeled and sliced ripe tomatoes, cucumbers, pistachios, fresh almonds, melons (when in season), and olives that are drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice and sprinkled with herbs. Fresh-baked bread is placed on the table, too. These dishes are traditionally enjoyed with the popular Turkish drink raki—or "lion's milk" as it is often called-an anise-flavored liqueur that turns white when it is mixed with water.
What makes a meze such a good way to feed guests is that most of the food can be prepared a day in advance. Though a simple meze consists of as few as three dishes, for special occasions a selection of four or five vegetable dishes cooked in oil and stuffed vegetable dishes is arranged on the table alongside böreks, freshly baked bread, and tasty salads. Sometimes char-grilled fish or meat is also served.
~ Swooning Imam
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Acılı Domates Ezmesi Spicy Pureed Tomatoes SERVES 4-6
This specialty of eastern Turkey is deep red and has a warm, rich flavor. If you do not find the color red enough, add a bit of tomato paste. Serve it with grilled meat, chicken or fish.
4 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and finely chopped (2 1/2 cups)
3 scallions, trimmed and finely chopped, some green parts included
1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped (1 cup)
2 Italian green peppers, finely diced (1/2 cup)
1 tablespoon dried mint
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley
3 tablespoons virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
4 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 cup paprika
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 teaspoons Turkish red pepper or ground red pepper
Salt
Pita bread
Place all the ingredients except the pita bread in a food processor fitted with a metal blade, and pulse two or three times, just long enough to make a finer consistency. Place the mixture in a shallow serving bowl, cover it and refrigerate for 1 hour. Serve chilled or at room temperature with pita bread.
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Imam Bayıldı (Swooning Imam) Stuffed Eggplant SERVES 6
The story is that when an imam came home from the mosque, his wife had prepared this dish for his lunch. On tasting it, he fainted. Some think it was because he was so delighted with the dish; others think that his reaction was more due to the high cost of one of its main ingredients: olive oil.
6 Italian eggplants (about 2 pounds), each about 6 inches long
3/4 cup virgin olive oil, divided
4 medium Spanish onions, thinly sliced (2 cups)
12 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped (1 1/2 cups)
1 bunch fresh Italian parsley, trimmed and coarsely chopped
2 teaspoons sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup light olive oil or vegetable oil
3 small Italian green peppers, seeded and cut in half
Heat the oven to 350°F.
Peel off half the eggplant skin on each eggplant in alternating lengthwise strips to create a striped effect—but leave the stems intact. Make a deep slit lengthwise along the center of each eggplant; do not cut all the way through or all the way to the ends. Place the eggplants in a bowl, sprinkle them generously with salt, and cover them with cold water. Let the eggplants soak for about 20 minutes.
Heat 1/2 cup of the virgin olive oil in a deep skillet over medium heat. Using a wooden spoon, stir in the onion, garlic, tomatoes, parsley, and sugar. Season with salt and pepper. Add 1/4 cup cold water and stir the mixture well. lower the heat, cover the skillet, and simmer for about 12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions are softened but not brown. Uncover the skillet and let the mixture cool.
Rinse the eggplants under cold running water. Gently squeeze out the excess water and pat the eggplants dry with paper towels.
Heat 1 cup light olive oil or vegetable oil in another deep skillet. Fry the eggplants until they're lightly browned on both sides, then remove them from the skillet with a slotted spoon. Add the green peppers to the pan and fry them for about 2 minutes.
Place the eggplants side by side in a baking dish, open-side up. Sprinkle the insides of each eggplant with salt, then stuff each one with the onion mixture. lay half a green pepper on top of each eggplant. Pour over 1/2 cup cold water and the remaining virgin olive oil. Cover the eggplant and peppers with parchment paper and bake for about 40 minutes. Let the dish cool, and serve at room temperature.
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Patlıcan Biber Tavası Yoğurtlu Sarmısaklı ve Domates Soslu Fried Eggplant and Green Peppers with Yogurt-Garlic and Tomato Sauces SERVES 4-6
On summer afternoons almost every neighborhood is filled with the smells of eggplant and green peppers frying.
6 Italian eggplants (about 2 pounds)
4 tablespoons salt
6 medium Italian green peppers
2 cups light olive oil or vegetable oil
6 fresh Italian parsley sprigs
1 recipe Yogurt-Garlic Sauce (page 13)
TOMATO SAUCE
1 tablespoon virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and finely chopped (1 1/2 cups)
Cut the stems off the eggplants, then peel off half the skin in alternating lengthwise strips to create a striped effect. Cut the eggplants into 1/2-inch-thick slices crosswise or diagonally or lengthwise, so you have pieces of different shapes. Add the salt to 2 quarts cold water. Soak the eggplant slices in the salted water for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the tomato sauce. Heat the olive oil in a small saucepan, and cook the garlic, stirring it with a wooden spoon, until it's softened but not brown, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, cover the saucepan, and cook gently for 2 more minutes. Set aside the sauce.
Remove the eggplant slices from the water with a slotted spoon, and pat them dry with paper towels. Dry the whole green peppers well also.
Heat 1 cup of the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. It is important that the oil be hot enough (about 350-365°F) so the eggplant does not become greasy. To test the hot oil, dip a piece of eggplant into the oil, taking care not to burn yourself—if the oil sizzles, it's ready. Fry the eggplant slices on both sides until they are light brown, about 2 minutes. Do not crowd them in the pan. Remove them from the oil and put them to drain on paper towels. Add more oil to the pan as needed.
When the eggplant is fried, add the whole green peppers to the pan and fry them until they're softened. Drain them on paper towels. Let the vegetables cool.
Arrange the eggplants and green peppers on a serving platter, garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve with the tomato and yogurt-garlic sauces.
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Patlıcan Ezmesi Eggplant Puree with Olive Oil and Lemon juice SERVES 4 - 6
This dish is best when the eggplant is prepared over a charcoal grill, which gives it a characteristic smoky taste.
3 or 4 large globe eggplants (total weight about 4 pounds)
6 tablespoons lemon juice, divided
1 tablespoon salt, plus more to season
1/4 cup virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
4 sprigs fresh Italian parsley, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup mixed olives
2 tomatoes, quartered
1 small red onion, finely sliced
Pita bread
Prepare a charcoal grill or heat the oven to 450°F. Using the tip of a skewer, poke 2-inch-deep holes all over the eggplants to allow the heat to get into the whole eggplant. Grill them over the charcoal fire, turning occasionally, for about 20 minutes, or until they completely collapse. Alternatively, place them in a baking pan and bake for about 40 minutes in the oven. Let them cool.
Mix 1 cup cold water, 3 tablespoons of the lemon juice, 1 tablespoon salt and set the mixture aside.
When they're cool enough to handle, lay the eggplants on a cutting board and peel off the skin, starting from the stem and working downward. Discard the skin and stems. Add the eggplant pulp to the lemon mixture and set aside for 10 minutes. (The lemon mixture helps prevent the eggplant from discoloring.)
Transfer the pulp to a strainer. Using the back of a wooden spoon, squeeze the excess liquid from the pulp. Return the eggplant pulp to the bowl, add the remaining lemon juice, the olive oil, and the garlic. Season with salt. Mash the mixture with a potato masher to make a smooth paste. Alternatively, place the eggplants in a food processor fitted with a metal blade and pulse a few times until smooth. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes.
Garnish with parsley, olives, tomatoes, and red onion slices. Serve with pita bread.
VARIATION
Yogurtlu Pathcan Ezmesi: Omit the 3 tablespoons of lemon juice and the olive oil used for seasoning. After you puree the eggplant, mix in 1 1/2 cups Süzme Yogurt (page 36). Chill and serve.
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Patlıcan Salatası Char-Grilled Eggplant Salad SERVES 4-6
3 large eggplants (about 3 to 3 1/3 pounds total)
6 tablespoons lemon juice, divided
1 tablespoon salt, plus extra to season
1 pound bell peppers (about 4 medium)
2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped (1 cup)
4 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh Italian parsley
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Prepare a charcoal grill, or heat the oven to 450°F. Cook the eggplant the same way as for Pathcan Ezmesi (page 20). Prepare the lemon juice using 3 tablespoons of the lemon juice, mix the eggplant pulp with it, and set it aside for 10 minutes.
Grill the green peppers for 8 minutes, turning occasionally, until they blacken completely. If using the oven, cook them for 15 minutes. Place the peppers in a plastic bag for about 10 minutes so the skin loosens. Remove the tops, peel the skin, and chop them, taking care to remove the seeds.
Transfer the eggplant pulp to a strainer and squeeze out the excess liquid. Roughly chop the pulp and mix it with the green peppers, tomatoes, garlic, parsley, oil, and the remaining lemon juice. Season with salt. Stir gently, cover the bowl, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Serve chilled.
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Zeytinyağlı Biber Dolması
Stuffed Green Peppers
SERVES 4-6
3 tablespoons currants
3 medium tomatoes
1 cup virgin olive oil
4 tablespoons pine nuts
1 medium Spanish onion, grated (1 cup)
1 cup long-grain rice
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill
3/4 cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
12 small green bell peppers (about 3 pounds)
Lemon wedges, to garnish
Soak the currants in warm water for about 15-20 minutes. Meanwhile, peel, seed and chop one of the tomatoes. Cut the other two tomatoes into 6 wedges each. Set the tomatoes aside.
Heat 1/2 cup of the olive oil in a medium-size pot over medium heat. Add the pine nuts and cook them for about 2 minutes, or until they're golden brown. Drain the currants and add them to the pot along with the onion, rice, sugar, cinnamon, and 2 cups hot water. Stir well, cover the pot, and cook the mixture over low heat for about 20 minutes, or until the water has been absorbed. The rice should be partially cooked.
Remove the pot from the heat, and stir in the chopped tomato, dill, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside. Carefully cut off the tops of the green peppers and remove the seeds and cores. Fill each pepper with some of the rice mixture, pressing down gently and making sure not to overstuff it or it may burst during cooking. Place a tomato wedge over each stuffed pepper.
Stand the peppers side by side in a flameproof casserole dish. Pour over the remaining olive oil and 2 cups water. Cover the surface of the peppers with crumpled wet parchment paper. Place an ovenproof plate on top of the parchment paper (make sure it fits inside the pan) to weigh it down. Bring the mixture to a boil, then lower the heat, cover the dish, and simmer for about 55 minutes, or until the peppers are soft and the water has been absorbed. Let the peppers cool. Serve at room temperature garnished with lemon wedges.
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Zeytinyağlı Yaprak Sarması (Yalanci)
Grape Leaves Stuffed with Rice, Pine Nuts, and Currants
SERVES 4- 6
This is a popular summer meze along the Aegean Coast and the Mediterranean coast of Turkey. These stuffed grape leaves are very good served with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.
This recipe is called yalacı, which means "fake," because the rice, pine nuts, and currants are substitutes for meat in the stuffing.
1 (16-ounce) jar grape leaves, grained
1/4 cup virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Lemon wedges
Tomato wedges
Chopped fresh Italian parsley
STUFFING
3 tablespoons currants
2 tablespoons virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons pine nuts
1 small Spanish onion, finely chopped (1 1/2 cup)
1 cup long-grain white rice
1 tablespoon sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
2 cups hot water
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Soak the currants in warm water for 15-20 minutes. Drain them and set them aside.
To prepare the grape leaves, bring 2 quarts water to a boil, unroll the grape leaves, and place them in the boiling water for 2 minutes to soften the leaves and rid them of the brine. Using a slotted spoon, remove the leaves from the water and drape them over the edge of a colander to drain. With a sharp knife, cut out the small protruding stem from each leaf. Set the grape leaves aside.
To make the stuffing heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat, and cook the pine nuts for about 2 minutes, until they're golden brown. Add the currants, onion, rice, sugar, cinnamon, and 2 cups hot water. Stir the mixture, cover the pot, and cook gently for about 20 minutes, or until the water has been absorbed. Remove the pan from the heat and mix in the dill and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let the stuffing cool for 30-40 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. To assemble the sarmas, line up 36 of the grape leaves side by side, vein side up and with the notch where you removed the stem closest to you. Place one tablespoon of the stuffing at the end of the leaf close to you. Fold the end nearest to you over the filling, then fold both sides of the leaf over the filling. Roll up the leaves—but not too tightly or they may burst.
Line a flameproof casserole dish with half the remaining grape leaves. Arrange the sarmas on top of the leaves, seam-side down. Pour 2 cups hot water, the olive oil, and the lemon juice over them. Cover the sarmas with the remaining grape leaves. Place crumpled wet parchment paper over the grape leaves, and weigh it down with an ovenproof plate (one small enough to fit inside the dish). Cover the dish, and on the stovetop over medium heat bring the liquid to a boil (about 5 minutes). Move the dish to the oven and cook gently for about 45 minutes, or until the sarmas are tender and the water has been absorbed.
Transfer the sarmas to a serving dish. Cover them and refrigerate. Serve chilled. Garnish with lemon wedges, tomatoes, and chopped parsley.
~ Pureed Fish Roe (page 35), Fresh Fava Beans Cooked with Olive Oil (page 29), Grape Leaves Stuffed with Rice, Pine Nuts, and Currants, and an assortment of olives
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Zeytinyağlı Yerelmasi Jerusalem Artichokes Cooked in Olive Oil SERVES 4 - 6
Jerusalem artichoke is a root vegetable that looks similar to ginger-root, although the flavor is very different-nutty and a bit like artichoke. It has beige to light brownish-red skin and white to beige flesh. This winter dish is from the western part of Turkey.
1 1/2 pounds Jerusalem artichokes
2 lemons, cut in half
1/4 cup virgin olive oil
1 small Spanish onion, finely diced (1/2 cup)
1 carrot, sliced
1/4 cup long-grain rice
2 tea spoons sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
3 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh dill Salt
Chopped parsley
Lemon wedges
Peel the artichokes and cut each one into 2 to 4 pieces depending on their size. Rub the pieces with the cut lemon halves and place them in a bowl of cold water to prevent discoloration.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and cook the onion gently until it's softened but not brown. Add the sliced carrot and cook for 1 minute. Drain the artichokes and add them to the pan along with the rice, sugar, lemon juice, and dill. Season with salt. Stir the mixture well.
Pour in 2 cups water, cover the pan, and cook gently for about 30 minutes, or until the Jerusalem artichokes are tender. Add a little hot water if the mixture gets dry before the artichokes finish cooking. Transfer the mixture to a serving plate and let it cool. Serve at room temperature with a garnish of chopped parsley and lemon wedges.
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Zeytinyağlı Kereviz
Celeriac with Vegetables in Olive Oil
SERVES 4-6
Celeriac is a root vegetable that has white to light brown skin and white flesh. When shopping, choose firm heavy ones. This winter dish is served as a meze or as a side dish.
4 celeriac knobs, peeled
1 lemon, cut in half
1/2 cup virgin olive oil
12 small shallots, peeled
2 carrots, diced(3/4 cup)
2 potatoes, diced (3/4 cup)
3/4 cup green peas
2 teaspoons sugar
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon flour
2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
Lemon wedges
Cut off the ends of the celeriacs. Cut the celeriacs in half and scrape off the soft pulp in the middle. Rub the celeriacs with half of the lemon, and cook them in a large pot of boiling water for about 15 minutes or until they're tender. Drain them and cut them into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Set the celeriacs aside.
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat, and cook the shallots for about 2 minutes until soft but not brown. Add the carrots, potatoes, green peas, and 4 cups water, and bring the mixture to a boil. Lower the heat, cover the pan, and cook for 10 minutes. Add the celeriac, sugar, the juice of the remaining half lemon, and the dill, and mix well. Season with salt and pepper.
Blend the flour with 2 tablespoons water and stir it into the vegetable mixture. Cook for another 10 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and the cooking liquid has thickened slightly. Add a little water if the mixture gets dry during cooking.
Transfer the celeriac slices to a serving platter with a slotted spoon, arranging them in a circular pattern. Place the vegetable mixture in the center and pour the thickened cooking liquid over it. Cover the platter and refrigerate for an hour. Serve at room temperature or chilled, with a garnish of chopped parsley and lemon wedges.
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Zeytinyağlı Pirasa
Leeks in Olive Oil
SERVES 4-6
2 pounds leeks
1/4 cup virgin olive oil
1 small Spanish onion, finely chopped (1/2 cup)
2 carrots, sliced (3/4 cup)
1/2 cup long grain rice
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley
2 teaspoons sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice Salt
Cut off the roots and about two thirds of the green part of the leeks. Remove the coarse outer leaves. Slice the leeks 1-inch deep lengthwise and split them open. Wash them well, removing all traces of dirt. Cut the leeks into 1/2-inch-wide slices and set them aside.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat, and cook the onions gently for about 2 minutes, or until it's softened but not brown. Add the leeks, carrots, rice, parsley, sugar, and lemon juice. Season with salt and stir the mixture. Pour in 2 cups hot water, cover the pan, and cook gently for about 20 minutes, or until the leeks are tender.
Transfer the mixture to a serving dish, cover, and refrigerate for 1 hour. Serve chilled or at room temperature.
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Ispanaklı Yogurt Ezmesi
Spicy Spinach Puree with Thick Yogurt
SERVES 4-6
1 1/2 pounds fresh spinach, washed and trimmed
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons Turkish red pepper or ground red pepper
1/4 cup virgin olive oil
2 cups Thick Yogurt Spread (page 36)
Salt
Paprika
Assorted olives
Toasted pita bread
Place the spinach in a saucepan with 1 quart water and bring to a boil. Cook the spinach for 2 minutes, then drain it, squeezing out the excess liquid. Chop the spinach finely. Place it in a bowl and add the garlic, Turkish red pepper, olive oil, and thick yogurt spread. Season with salt. Stir the mixture gently with a wooden spoon, cover the bowl, and refrigerate for one hour. Garnish with paprika and olives. Serve with toasted pita bread.
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Ispanak Kavurma
Sautéed Spinach with Yogurt-Garlic Sauce
SERVES 4-6
This simple, colorful dish is especially good with grilled meat, or chicken.
1 1/2 pounds fresh spinach, washed and trimmed
1 tablespoon virgin olive oil
4 teaspoons clarified butter (page 7), divided
1 small Spanish onion, finely chopped (1/2 cup)
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded, and diced (3/4 cup)
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons Turkish red pepper or ground red pepper, divided
2 teaspoons paprika, divided
1 recipe Yogurt-Garlic Sauce (page 13), to serve
In a large saucepan, bring 2 cups water to a boil and cook the spinach for about 2 minutes. Drain the spinach, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid. Squeeze out the excess liquid and chop the spinach finely.
Heat the oil and 2 teaspoons of the butter in a medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, and cook gently until it's softened but not brown, about 2 minutes. Add the spinach, garlic, tomato, salt, 1 teaspoon of the Turkish red pepper, and 1 teaspoon of the paprika. Stir in the reserved 1/2 cup spinach liquid, then remove the saucepan from the heat. Transfer this mixture to a serving plate and let it cool.
Pour the yogurt-garlic sauce over the cooled spinach mixture. Heat the remaining 2 teaspoons butter in a small saucepan, stir in the remaining Turkish red pepper and paprika. Drizzle this butter mixture over the yogurt-garlic sauce, and serve at once.
~ Rice-and-Herb-Stuffed Artichokes with Fava Beans and Olive Oil
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Zeytinyağlı Enginar Dolması
Rice-and - Herb - Stuffed Artichokes with Fava Beans and Olive Oil
SERVES 4-6
This recipe comes from my hometown of İzmir, but it is also prepared in the western and Mediterranean regions of Turkey. It is usually eaten in the summer when artichokes are harvested.
This dish can be cooked entirely on the stovetop, but finishing it in the oven allows it to cook more evenly. Traditionally, Turkish homes didn't have stoves, so people cooked dishes like these over a paraffin burner or in a brick oven.
1/4 cup flour
1/2 cup lemon juice, divided
6 medium or 12 small artichokes (about 2 1/2 pounds)
2 lemons, cut in half
2 large carrots
3/4 cup virgin olive oil, divided
1/2 cup short-grain rice
3 scallions, trimmed and finely chopped, some green parts included
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh dill, divided
1/2 cup finely chopped Italian parsley, divided
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 cup shelled fresh fava beans
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sprigs of fresh dill
Lemon wedges
To prepare the artichokes, mix the flour and 1/4 cup of the lemon juice with 2 quarts cold water in a large bowl. Cut off the stems so the artichokes can stand, and trim the bottoms. Remove any hard outer leaves, trim off tough upper edges, and scoop out the choke, scraping it out thoroughly. Rub the artichokes all over with the cut lemon halves and place the artichokes in the flour and water mixture to help prevent discoloration.
Cut and shape the carrots into 1 1/2-inch ovals, shaped like large olives (see photograph opposite).
Preheat the oven to 350°F. For the stuffing, heat 1/2 cup of the olive oil in a medium saucepan. Add the rice, scallions, 1/4 cup of the dill, 1/4 cup of the parsley, sugar, and 1 cup of the water, stirring to combine them. Bring the mixture to a boil, then lower the heat, cover the pan and cook over low heat for about 10 minutes, or until the water has been absorbed.
Remove the artichokes from the water and shake off the excess water. Stuff the artichokes with the rice mixture, pressing down gently to pack it in a bit. Do not overstuff them. Place them in a flameproof casserole dish upright, side by side.
Add the fava beans and carrots to the casserole dish. Pour over the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil, the remaining 1/4 cup lemon juice, 1 cup water, and the remaining dill and parsley. lay a crumpled piece of wet parchment paper directly on top of the artichokes, and weigh it down with an ovenproof dish (one small enough to fit inside the dish). On the stovetop, over medium heat, bring the liquid to a boil. Once it has boiled, cover the dish and move it to the oven. Cook gently for about 40- 45 minutes, or until most of the liquid has been absorbed and the artichokes are tender. Let the dish cool.
Transfer the artichokes with fava beans and carrots to a serving dish, spooning the cooking juices on top. Serve chilled or at room temperature. Garnish with sprigs of dill and lemon wedges.
NOTE. If fresh fava beans are unavailable, use fresh green peas.
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Tahanli Nohut Ezmesi (Humus)
Hummus (Pureed Chickpeas with Tahini)
SERVES 4-6
I developed this version of hummus myself. It was a "Hit of the Week" in the Boston Globe in 1986 and has been a favorite dish at Sultan's Kitchen for many years.
In the eastern part of Turkey hummus is served hot rather than cold. For a variation, serve it topped with roasted pine nuts or walnuts and with a drizzle of hot clarified butter mixed with some Turkish hot pepper.
1 1/2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked overnight (page 7)
2 teaspoons salt and a little more to season
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 cup lemon juice
1/4 cup virgin olive oil
1/4 cup tahini
Sliced red onion
Assorted olives
Paprika
Toasted pita bread
Place the chickpeas in a medium-size saucepan with 2 1/2 cups of water and 2 teaspoons of salt. Bring the chickpeas to a boil, lower the heat, and bring to simmer for about 1 1/2 hours, or until they are tender. Add more water if it is absorbed too quickly. Drain the chickpeas and reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid. Set aside.
In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, process the chickpeas, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, and the reserved cooking liquid until the mixture is smooth. Season with salt. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and stir in the tahini to make a smooth paste. Garnish with sliced red onion and olives and sprinkle with paprika. Serve with toasted pita bread.
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Zeytinyağlı Kuru Fasülye Pilakisi
Lima beans with Vegetables and Olive Oil
SERVES 4-6
1 pound dried medium or large lima beans (2 cups), soaked overnight (page 7)
1/2 cup virgin olive oil
1 small Spanish onion, finely diced (1/2 cup)
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 carrots, diced (3/4 cup)
1 rib celery, diced (1/2 cup)
2 potatoes, diced (3/4 cup)
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh Italian parsley
Lemon wedges
Drain the soaked beans, place them in a saucepan, and cover them with cold water. Bring the water to a boil, then lower the heat, cover the pan, and cook the beans gently for about 30 minutes, or until they're just tender.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat, and cook the onion gently for about 2 minutes, until it's softened but not brown. Stir in the garlic, tomato paste, carrots, and celery. Drain the cooked beans and add them to the pan, cover it, and simmer for about 15 minutes. Add the potatoes and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper, cover the pan, and simmer for another 10 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender.
Transfer the vegetable mixture to a serving dish, cover it and refrigerate for 1 hour. Serve chilled or at room temperature, garnished with parsley and lemon wedges.
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Zeytinyağlı Taze Bakla Fresh Fava Beans Cooked with Olive Oil SERVES 4-6
This recipe, in which the entire fava pod and beans are eaten, comes from the Aegean region. It is prepared in the southern and western parts of the country in early spring and summer, when fava beans are young and tender. The dish is delicious served on hot days with Yogurt-Garlic Sauce or just plain yogurt.
1 1/2 pounds fresh fava beans
2 tablespoons all purpose flour
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 cup virgin olive oil
1 small Spanish onion, finely diced (1/2 cup)
3 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh dill
Salt
1 recipe Yogurt-Garlic Sauce (page 13)
Prepare the beans by snapping off one end and pulling off the string, then turning the beans over and pulling the string from the other side. Cut the fava beans in half and place them in a bowl. Cover them with cold water, sprinkle on the flour, and stir in the lemon juice. Set aside.
Heat the olive oil in a deep pot over medium heat and cook the onion gently for about 2 minutes, until it's softened but not brown. Drain the beans and add them to the pot along with 2 tablespoons of the dill and 1 1/2 cups water. Season with salt. Bring this mixture to a boil, then lower the heat, cover the pot, and simmer for about 40 minutes, or until the beans are tender.
Transfer the mixture to a serving plate, cover it, and refrigerate. Pour the yogurt-garlic sauce over the beans and sprinkle on the rest of the chopped dill. Serve chilled or at room temperature.
~Fresh Fava Beans Cooked with Olive Oil and served with Yogurt-Garlic Sauce (page 13)
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Zeytinyağlı Taze Fasülye
Green Beans with Tomatoes and Olive Oil
SERVES 4-6
You can use any type of green beans, long or short, round or flat, for this recipe. In Turkish, flat green beans that don't have strings are used. When buying string beans, look for fresh, bright green beans that snap sharply when broken in two.
1/2 cup virgin olive oil
1 small Spanish onion, finely diced (1/2 cup)
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and finely diced (1/2 cup)
1 1/2 pounds fresh green beans, trimmed and cut in half lengthwise
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
Heat the oil in a medium-size pot over medium heat and cook the onions gently for about 2 minutes, until it's softened but not brown. Stir in the garlic, tomato, and beans. Season with salt and pepper. Add 1 1/2 cups water and bring the mixture to a boil; then lower the heat, cover the pot, and simmer gently for about 35 minutes, or until the beans are tender but not too soft.
Transfer the mixture to a serving plate, cover it, and refrigerate for 1 hour. Serve chilled or at room temperature with a garnish of chopped parsley.
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Çerkez Tavuğu Circassian Chicken SERVES 4-6
This dish is one of the classical masterpieces of Turkish cuisine and is served on special occasions. Traditionally the walnuts were crushed between two stones, and the walnut oil was collected and drizzled over the dish. Use only the best quality paprika and make sure the walnuts are sweet. Though it won't give the same flavor, olive oil may be used instead of the walnut oil.
2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts
3 cups chicken stock (page 58)
2 tablespoons walnut oil or extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons paprika
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh Italian parsley
Walnut halves
WALNUT SAUCE
2 slices day-old white bread, crusts removed
2 tablespoons unsalted clarified butter (page 7)
1 small Spanish onion, finely chopped (1/2 cup)
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 1/ tablespoons paprika
1 teaspoon ground red pepper
1 1/2 cups chopped walnuts Salt
Place the chicken breasts and the chicken stock in a saucepan, cover it, and bring the liquid to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer gently for 15 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked. (Be careful not to overcook the chicken, or it will lose some of its flavor.) Using a slotted spoon, remove the chicken and let it cool. Reserve about 2 cups of the cooking liquid and keep the rest for another use.
To make the walnut sauce, soak the bread in a little of the reserved chicken stock, then squeeze it dry and crumble it into a small bowl. Set the bread aside. In a small saucepan, heat the clarified butter over medium heat, add the onion, and cook gently for about 2 minutes until the onion is softened but not brown. Stir in the garlic, paprika, and ground red pepper. Remove the saucepan from the heat and set the mixture aside.
In a food processor or blender, finely grind the walnuts. Add 1 cup of the reserved cooking liquid, the onion mixture, and crumbled bread. Season with salt and blend well to make a smooth sauce. If the sauce is too thick, add a little more of the reserved cooking liquid.
Using a sharp knife, shred the chicken and place the pieces in a large bowl. Add the sauce and mix well. Transfer the mixture to a serving plate.
To prepare the garnish, warm the walnut oil in a small saucepan and stir in the paprika. Drizzle this sauce over the shredded chicken mixture. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and decorate with walnut halves.
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Kuru Bakla Ezmesi (Fava)
Pureed Dried Fava Beans
SERVES 4-6
1 pound dried fava (or broad) beans (2 cups), soaked overnight (page 7)
1 small Spanish onion, chopped (1/2 cup)
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 red onion, thinly sliced
Finely chopped fresh Italian
Parsley Paprika
Toasted triangles of pita bread
Drain the soaked beans and remove the skins. Place them in a medium-size pot along with the onion, 3 1/2 cups water, and the salt. Bring the mixture to a boil, then lower the heat, cover the pot, and simmer for about 1 hour, or until the beans are well cooked and the water has been absorbed.
Transfer the bean mixture to a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Process until the mixture is smooth. If it seems too thick, add a little water and continue processing.
Spread the puree in a shallow dish, cover it, and refrigerate for an hour, or until it is fully set—it should be solid, not soft or runny. Cut the fava spread into several pieces and drizzle them with olive oil and lemon juice. Garnish with the red onion slices, and sprinkle with parsley and paprika. Serve with pita toasts.
~ Circassian Chicken (page 30), Fried Eggplant and Green Peppers with Yogurt-Garlic and Tomato Sauces (page 20), and Zucchini Fritters (page 33)
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Zeytinyağlı Barbunya Fasülye Pilakisi
Roman Beans with Vegetables and Olive Oil
SERVES 4-6
This way of preparing beans with vegetables and olive oil is called pilaki and is from western Turkey. This dish can be served as a meze, or it can accompany grilled meat and chicken.
1 3/4 pounds dried Roman, cranberry, or pinto beans (2 1/2 cups), soaked overnight (page 7)
1/2 cup virgin olive oil
1 small Spanish onion, finely diced (1/2 cup)
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 carrots, diced (3/4 cup)
1 rib celery, diced (1/2 cup)
2 potatoes, diced (3/4 cup)
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh Italian parsley
Lemon wedges
Drain the beans. Cook them in a large pot with 4 cups of water for about 1 hour, or until they are not quite tender. Set them aside.
