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LANZAROTE

A rocky, sand-blown coastline finally leads to the surfing village of Caleta de Famara (Walk 11)

INTRODUCTION

Hacha Chica, rising above barren, stony slopes near Papagayo, on the lower parts of Walk 4

Lanzarote is the fourth largest Canary Island, and while many of its areas are under cultivation, or swathed in rugged lava, there is plenty of scope for interesting and varied walks. Three weeks of walking are covered on Lanzarote, with another two days on the island of La Graciosa. The main town, Arrecife, is flanked by three resorts on the east coast, while there are only a couple of villages on the rugged west coast. The former capital, Teguise, lies in the centre of the island – a safe location when piracy was rife.

The day walks on the island may be circular or linear, and either way there are good bus services for joining and leaving routes. The long-distance GR 131, from Playa Blanca to Órzola, is very well served by buses. The Parque Nacional de Timanfaya has very limited access for walkers: a rugged coastal path, Walk 6, is available any time, but it is long and difficult, while the short Ruta de Termesana is only available by advance booking through the national park visitor centre. (See www.reservasparquesnacionales.es and select ‘Timanfaya’.) Other guided walks are also available.

There are about 355km (220 miles) of walking on Lanzarote described in this book.

Getting there

By Air

Flights to Lanzarote from Gran Canaria and Tenerife are operated by Binter Canarias, tel. 902 391 392, www.bintercanarias.com, and Canaryfly, tel. 902 808 065, www.canaryfly.es. Buses meet incoming flights, offering links with Arrecife and the three resorts of Costa Teguise, Puerto del Carmen and Playa Blanca. Taxis are also available at the airport.

By Ferry

Looking from Fuerteventura to Lanzarote – barely half an hour’s ferry journey connects them

Two ferry companies operate regular services between Playa Blanca on Lanzarote and Corralejo on Fuerteventura: Lineas Fred Olsen, tel. 902 100 107, www.fredolsen.es; and Naviera Armas, tel. 902 456 500, www.navieraarmas.com. Less regular ferries link Arrecife with Las Palmas on Gran Canaria and Santa Cruz on Tenerife.

Getting around

By Bus

Lanzarote has a good network of bus services operated by IntercityBus, tel. 928 811 522. The website, www.arrecifebus.com, contains full timetable details and route maps. Printed timetables can be obtained from the bus station. Tickets are for single journeys and fares are paid on boarding the bus. Alternatively, buy a travel card, load it with funds and enjoy a ten per cent discount on fares. Buses are referred to as guaguas, although bus stops, or paradas, may be marked as ‘bus’. All the towns and most villages have bus services, while the Sunday market at Teguise has special services.

By Taxi

Long taxi rides are expensive, but short journeys are worth considering. The following numbers link with taxis around the island: Arrecife tel. 928 800 806; Airport, Playa Honda and San Bartolomé tel. 928 520 176; Playa Blanca and Yaiza tel. 9928 524 222; Puerto del Carmen and Tías tel. 928 524 220; Tinajo and La Santa tel. 928 840 049; Teguise and Costa Teguise tel. 928 524 223; Haría and Órzola tel. 620 315 350. Fares are fixed by the municipalities and can be inspected on demand, although negotiation might be possible.

Accommodation

Accommodation is abundant on Lanzarote, although it is concentrated in the resorts of Playa Blanca, Puerto del Carmen and Costa Teguise, as well as the capital Arrecife. Elsewhere, small hotels and rural properties are widely spread. Many places that were once reserved for package tourists now cheerfully offer rooms and services to people who book at short notice or via the internet.

Food and drink

Lanzarote produces much of its own fruit, vegetables and fish. Some restaurants are cosmopolitan, while others offer good local fare. Specialities include goats’ cheese. Wrinkly potatoes (papas arrugadas ) cooked in salt are surprisingly refreshing in hot weather, served with hot mojo roja sauce or the gentler mojo verde. The fish used in most local fish dishes is vieja. If any dishes such as soups or stews need thickening, reach for the roasted flour gofio, which doubles as a breakfast cereal. Lanzarote also produces an abundance of wine. Never pass up an opportunity to indulge in local fare!

Tourist information offices

Arrecife tel. 9928 802 884

Ferryport tel. 928 844 690

Airport tel. 928 820 704

Playa Blanca tel. 928 518 150

Teguise tel. 928 845 398

Puerto del Carmen tel. 928 510 542

Costa Teguise tel. 928 592 542

The main tourism website for Lanzarote is www.turismolanzarote.com